# best paint for underbody



## CadilacSmiff (Aug 9, 2005)

I was wondering what is the best paint for the underbody? The car is going to be drivin. I want something that has a high gloss and is strong so when I take it to a show I can show off the chrome undies.


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## BlueBerry (Nov 21, 2006)

Auto paint that matches the rest of your car......


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## Ragtop Ted (Sep 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by BlueBerry_@May 3 2009, 12:02 AM~13769087
> *Auto paint that matches the rest of your car......
> *


x2 :biggrin:


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## CoupeDTS (Nov 10, 2007)

enamel wont chip as easy


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## CadilacSmiff (Aug 9, 2005)

> _Originally posted by BlueBerry_@May 3 2009, 02:02 AM~13769087
> *Auto paint that matches the rest of your car......
> *


I was looking for something that wont chip real easy. My car going to be black so it not going to be hard to match.


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## CadilacSmiff (Aug 9, 2005)

Has anybody use this por 15 stuff or anything like it? Is it any good?

http://www.por15.com/


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## BlueBerry (Nov 21, 2006)

^^ SUCKS....................... not really but,,, Then you just asked another question that has been answered 1000 times this month & you should do a search on it -- Faster results than getting some from on here..........





If your really worried about chipping -- Get some tintable Bed Liner & spray that shiton there - Rocks wont hurt it.


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## jayoldschool (Jan 18, 2006)

Use ENDURA. You can get it matched to your body colour.

Blasted:









Endura coated:









Endura tinted to match body:









You can do the frame the same way (stock frame, no filling, btw):

Bare:









Endura:









Final with colour:


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## CadilacSmiff (Aug 9, 2005)

> _Originally posted by BlueBerry_@May 5 2009, 02:34 AM~13788390
> *^^ SUCKS....................... not really but,,, Then you just asked another question that has been answered 1000 times this month & you should do a search on it -- Faster results than getting some from on here..........
> If your really worried about chipping -- Get some tintable Bed Liner & spray that shiton there - Rocks wont hurt it.
> *


Used the search but it didnt come up with anything and besides everybody knows the search sucks on here.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

por15 or kbs products work good.

i did several parts and will be doing a bell for a non frame off car. lots of work and is hard but if your not going frame off its easier cus you can brush it on. 


















almost as thick as powdercoating and flows out nicely but just as any paint job is good as its finish and prep work.


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## BlueBerry (Nov 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by CadilacSmiff_@May 5 2009, 08:08 PM~13797381
> *Used the search but it didnt come up with anything and besides everybody knows the search sucks on here.
> *






Works for me.... I live way out in the sticks & Im on Dial up still.................


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by CadilacSmiff+May 5 2009, 09:08 PM~13797381-->
> 
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search will be usually down at peak hours


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## CadilacSmiff (Aug 9, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@May 6 2009, 10:27 AM~13801670
> *por15 or kbs products work good.
> 
> i did several parts and will be doing a bell for a non frame off car. lots of work and is hard but if your not going frame off its easier cus you can brush it on.
> ...


Are those pieces still wet? Do they stay that glossy? Is that sprayed or brushed?


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

endura is the best product named so far, by a mile!!

I prefer Imron though, very much like endura, there both POLYEURATHANES, but Imron is the only paint aircraft approved.

Endura is what almost all boat companies use, and it would be a great choice as well.

you can find imron at most dupont supply shops.
endura can be found at industrial supply shops or marine shops.
imron is easier to color match because they can use there dupont camera and match it that way, however you are still some what limited, endura does not have that capability, the best match will be in the hands of the tinter.


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## CadilacSmiff (Aug 9, 2005)

Thanks for the info. :thumbsup:


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by CadilacSmiff+May 6 2009, 08:12 PM~13808702-->
> 
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> 
> ...


i been wanting to try this.

so would it need clear over still or as is?


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## robkamm (May 5, 2009)

there is a great product out there from the big rig market called chassis saver. made by SEM. works great, cheap and will rust proof anything. black only. flat or gloss. ive been using it on my cars for a while now. holds up well


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## red_ghost (Jun 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by robkamm_@May 7 2009, 02:37 PM~13817058
> *there is a great product out there from the big rig market called chassis saver. made by SEM.  works great, cheap and will rust proof anything. black only. flat or gloss. ive been using it on my cars for a while now. holds up well
> *


chasis saver is supposed to be a por-15 copycat. you can get it at car quest


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## hugos76 (Sep 20, 2008)

> _Originally posted by BlueBerry_@May 6 2009, 10:07 AM~13802166
> *Works for me.... I live way out in the sticks & Im on Dial up still.................
> *



Dial up :0


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by slo_@May 7 2009, 11:52 AM~13816525
> *that is a cured product. a colored top coat can still be added. very user friendly i used a cheap paintbrush
> i been wanting to try this.
> 
> ...


it can be cleared, but does not need it, for either of those products. i recomend NOT clearcoating solid colors, and clearcoating metallics, that way spot repairs are easier, especially on solids.  when clearing they have some funky flash times, like imron wants you to wait something like between 12 hrs, but not longer than 16, and endura is like 8 hours, but not longer than 12, makes it a bit awkward cause you basically have to time when you paint it, so you can come back the next day and hit it with clear within the window time. you can speed the flash up with accelarator, but i would strongly recomend NOT doing that because it kills the durability and almost always causes cratering in the endura brand. also you should wait like a week before you start assembling parts on either, cause these polys take a long while to cure up properly.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 6Deuced_@May 9 2009, 11:29 PM~13840702
> *it can be cleared, but does not need it, for either of those products. i recomend NOT clearcoating solid colors, and clearcoating metallics, that way spot repairs are easier, especially on solids.   when clearing they have some funky flash times, like imron wants you to wait something like between 12 hrs, but not longer than 16, and endura is like 8 hours, but not longer than 12, makes it a bit awkward cause you basically have to time when you paint it, so you can come back the next day and hit it with clear within the window time. you can speed the flash up with accelarator, but i would strongly recomend NOT doing that because it kills the durability and almost always causes cratering in the endura brand. also you should wait like a week before you start assembling parts on either, cause these polys take a long while to cure up properly.
> *


just how durrable are they then if u say ...need of touch up etc?


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## hugos76 (Sep 20, 2008)

POR-15 is no joke


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

telling yall its some good shit..

but i use KBS coatings exactly the same but cheaper and their customer service is excellent!


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by slo_@May 9 2009, 09:35 PM~13840729
> *just how durrable are they then if u say ...need of touch up etc?
> *


well theres certain things that no paint or powdercoat can hold up to, like scraping the pavement  hitting a bad switch.

how durable?? well against chemicals, imron is invincible, gas or oil wont even touch it. it holds up the hottest temps, i actually welded on the opposite side of some 5/16" and it didn't peel the imron off the other side, just browned it up a bit, just right where the weld was, any other paint would have been peeling like shit, it holds up better than anything on an engine i know of, i have also hammer tested it on my previously painted silver frame, and it took a beating, to say the least. :biggrin: yes it will eventually chip, but nothing can hold up to certain things, but IMHO imron if applied and cured properly is the toughest paint on this planet that you could paint a car with!


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

oh ok thats what i figured


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