# deep wet look



## 4wheelspin (May 12, 2013)

I will be painting a dark blue metallic car in the upcoming days with base coat / clear coat. How could a get the best finish ? What process do you guys use to get the best look. Will be using HOK product with Klear USC01. I want to get the deep wet look


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

The secret is.....


Hard work. 


Now if still interested in wet look be prepared to do more hours of hard work after that. High build. Block. Block again once more after you think you are done. 

Paint in a clean environment. Very clean. Hospital clean. Even yourself must be clean so much shit comes off of you and the equipment you are using through out the process that it's not even funny. Less lint, hair, bugs, dust you get the better. 

Take your time and breath, take a dump, have lunch and then go in at it. No time bomb will go off if you stop base halfway through to fix a few last minute dings. The job will only come out better. 

Gun control, set that baby up. Get a flat smooth panel. Test it open fan, closed fan. Low psi. High psi. Till you get it dialed in to your compressor your temperature and your wrist movement. Its a fine line between orange peel, wet and a run.

There's no magic tool, additive or technique to getting to lay glass, just a ton of combination of things to get it to come out correct. Unless if there is a magic additive please someone post up cus ive been busting my ass.


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

best thing to do is paint and clear it then sand out the fresh clear and re-clear aka flow coating,its the best!


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

ooh and use a good high solids clear


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

So what determine a high solids againsts a non-high solids clear. I've used all sorts. Some clears cooperate better than others depending the condition but what's the variation in HS?


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## 4wheelspin (May 12, 2013)

What would recomend for a good high solid clear? I'm using HOK USC01. I have used it before and I like how easy it is to apply. Do you get a deeper finish when you sand out the fresh clear and re-clear aka flow coating? Or does it only give you more material to work with when buffing the car. What grit sand paper do you use to sand clear? Heres what I was planning on doing. Paint with the base coat. Then 3 coats of Clear. Wet sand the car from 1200 and finish with 3000 grit sand paper. Then the 3M 3 step polishing process. Starting with a wool pad and then the foam pad. Wax / sealer at the end. Still looking for more if possible. thanks


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

*HOK USC01 *after 1200/1500/2000 grit then 3000 orbital.... 3 step buff.... NO WAX for about a year.... see more pics on my bottom sig

]


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## 4wheelspin (May 12, 2013)

green reaper said:


> *HOK USC01 *after 1200/1500/2000 grit then 3000 orbital.... 3 step buff.... NO WAX for about a year.... see more pics on my bottom sig
> 
> http://s57.photobucket.com/user/greenreaper1/media/chago9 016_zpswrg4f3oe.jpg.html]


 Looks great !!! How many coats of clear?


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

U gona want at least foe teen coats of glawse on dat hoe fam


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

Base 3 coats, clear 4-5 coats. Block with 600. 2-3 flow coats. Block with 800. Then go up, 1000,1200,1500,2000,2500,3000 etc..

You wont get deep wet with just 3 coats. And block that clear coat


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

lone star said:


> U gona want at least foe teen coats of glawse on dat hoe fam


I told ike 7 mo coats of clear.....





he just nodded.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

Take a few classes, learn about molasses


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

after your car is based and 3 coats of clear(high soilds is prefferable) let it dry a few days then sand with 500-600 on a da with interface pad or use 800 wet by hand then reclear 3 more coats of high solids clear.after its dry for a good week or so to allow shrinkage, sand with 1500-2000 wet (only use the 1500 where you need to and 2000 on everything else including the spots you hit with 1500)or dry to remove dust,bugs and orange peel when the whole car is done and sanded do it all over again with 3000.now for buffing use a cutting compond on a wool pad to get the bulk of the sanding scratches out then switch to a foam cutting pad and continue with the same compound.when its done i like to wash the car and dry it well then go at it with a foam polishing pad on the the same rotary buffer using a polishing compound and when your done if you choose you can use glaze or swirlmark remover on a orbital buffer.use 3m products their good and worth the money including their buffing and polishing pads.high solids clear is genrally mixed 2-1 and medium solids clear is 4-1 .high solids is the good shit you get less shrinkage and less dieback.its a much thicker and shinier in my opinion well worth the money. but this can all be done with medium solids clear and get great results!


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

That about sums it up bossman.


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## impalas79 (Dec 5, 2007)

3 coats of clear aint DEEP, its 3 GALLONS you need fo the deep wet look. IF u got standox HS or some true Euro clearcoat, then 5 liters wil do.. the flo coat is the way to go for sure, also said before. wetsanding with 800 or 1000 Hard to flatten the clear out, then work all the way up o 5000 grit,


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

3 gallons is alot of materials. Will the doors be able to open close?


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## 4wheelspin (May 12, 2013)

Who makes a good high solid Clear? Is the HOK USC01 a high solid Clear. Was looking on youtube and found thewetwet from all Kandy. Anyone try it?


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

I hear good thinks about southern poly urethanes. They have a website with tech section also


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

spi is good,wetwet is good but all paint lines offer high solids clear even nason,just get what yo can afford


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## streetsupraz (Apr 15, 2004)

green reaper said:


> *HOK USC01 *after 1200/1500/2000 grit then 3000 orbital.... 3 step buff.... NO WAX for about a year.... see more pics on my bottom sig
> 
> ]


Looks good. After a year are you going to cut and buff again?


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## JustCruisin (Jan 19, 2004)

4wheelspin said:


> I will be painting a dark blue metallic car in the upcoming days with base coat / clear coat. How could a get the best finish ? What process do you guys use to get the best look. Will be using HOK product with Klear USC01. I want to get the deep wet look


If you wanted that Deeeep, swimmin in the ocean wet look.. You'd spray your dark metallic blue, then 3-4 coats of clear.. Sand that, than spray 3-4 coats of blue kandy, followed by 4 coats of clear.. Sand that and flow coat..


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

Flow coating is ur best bet but isnt needed.... 4 coats of high solids clear done rite will work


4 coats sherwinn cc939 then blocked frm 800 up n buffed


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

What kind of pad and compound is that?


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

streetsupraz said:


> Looks good. After a year are you going to cut and buff again?


now why would I want to do that? still looks like glass after 1 1/2 years


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

Thats my black wool. And i use a few dif compounds ranging from extreme cut to fine cut. I believe the pad is from presta


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

FlipFlopBox said:


> Flow coating is ur best bet but isnt needed.... 4 coats of high solids clear done rite will work
> 
> 
> 4 coats sherwinn cc939 then blocked frm 800 up n buffed


Right so what is "*done right*" that's what I think most of us are getting at. I think it goes to spraying technique no?



BTW good to see the flipflopbox back in the house. Spray expertise is appreciated.


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

There is no technique for wetter looking clear. Its all in the brand of clear and sanding and flow coating. 

Doing a straight 4 coats and if you block it down with 800 then go up to 2500,3000 is the right way he is talking about.

Although if I did 1 step clear I would do 6 coats.

But I would prefer 2 steps including a flow coat. It just gets wetter automatically


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

https://youtu.be/cNFLPOKMkBE


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Alright, I just got done with this Fastback and while it is deep looking with 4 good coats, I'm wondering if its "done right"

obviously its too fresh to even buff and it did get trash as I'm not in a booth. but texture is hardly there in any areas.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

My problem is in order to not get any peel I wet it down hard and just smash it on but then it gets all runny all over... ive tried with and without reducer on this cheap clear...

Before anyone says oh that's the problem get a better clear, sure I could do that but these jobs aren't budgeted for that and being in the opposite side of the world I am limited to what I can get readily available. 

Also I find it hard to believe that even the most skilled sprayer will have either texture or runs, I've sprayed dozens and dozens of cars back home with no or minimal runs or texture. Also the one time I was in a BMW/Audi dealership booth here I got no runs what so ever , however texture was minimal but there. With the same product and mix. 

Any input?


Booth no runs but some texture in some areas only


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

no booth flat surface 2-3 coats I think same product


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

same vehicle flow coated with 3 more coats, got it shiney but had runs to par


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)




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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

This car same products, no booth cooler temps. few runs here and there that were expected but more areas with harder texture.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Flow coated



None of these cars are buffed yet, waiting on The Lone to finish his review so I can see what else to try different... I may do a similar rev on diff products.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

What I shoot with if anyone cares to know.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Going to respray my ute in a few days so id be interested on any advice on how not to get runs or texture....funny huh.

Because I don't want to waste time buffing a daily driver ill be selling soon.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

4 coats no texture but runs on sides..no booth


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## E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ (Feb 19, 2011)

https://youtu.be/yQZhsBXHT2E :thumbsup:


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## E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ (Feb 19, 2011)

https://youtu.be/MirPi4UBfO8 check this one out.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ said:


> https://youtu.be/MirPi4UBfO8 check this one out.


Good video. Wish he gave more details on clear used and how it was mixed. All i got out of it was sand w 600 and use 30psi


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ said:


> https://youtu.be/MirPi4UBfO8 check this one out.


Very helpful. I just lost 2 hours on YouTube looking for more info, lol. I've only sprayed a few bumpers, a hood, a frame, and the other day an entire car. All using Devilbiss guns. I ended up with some striping on the hood that looks like its due to holding the gun on too much of an angle from too far away. I was also racing the weather as it was 66 degrees, relative humidity was 65%-70%, in a tarped off garage.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

https://youtu.be/GdBLfJ8a7Dk

Part 2 of my 3m compounds review


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

https://youtu.be/gLSUiqchzmY

Part 3. Comments or suggestions.??


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ said:


> https://youtu.be/yQZhsBXHT2E :thumbsup:


yea I know that guy, he sprays a lot all day long but does leave out some details, also wonder if it be any diff on a side panel than a panel sitting flat etc. lot of variables


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## MIJO65 (May 20, 2008)

Tight


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

As a painter, you have to figure this stuff out for yourself. There is no certain way to mix or shoot. Temp, humidity, gun adjustments, technique, clear, even how nice the base was laid down matters in results. 

First you need to figure out best psi for that gun and clear. Some are good at 30, some clears and guns need 45-50. 

Then you need the proper temp activator for the weather. That is just experience most the time. You need to be able to tell if its flashing to slow or to fast. And adjust your gun and technique accordingly on the fly as you go. Thats why so big of a difference from alot of texture to runs.

And your technique should be 65-70% overlap. And your fan and fluid need to be adjusted on the gun. Your distance needs to be consistant and you need to find the sweet spot. 

All these things YOU need to figure out to get better results. Its all in gun adjustments(fluid,psi,fan) technique(speed,overlap,distance), activator temp of clear and having a nice smooth base coat to clear over.

Pay attention to all these things. Thats the only way to get better, youtube aint gona show you these things!


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

He is 100% correct. 10 dif painters can paint 10 dif ways n end up w same flaws and issues or same flat glass ending.... all comes down to trial and error


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

Comes down to lots of hard labor pretty much lol


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

Layitlow is killing my image sizing n quality of pix add my instagram theres a few pics thru out the page


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## MIJO65 (May 20, 2008)

Its best to post through photobucket..stupid i know


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## E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ (Feb 19, 2011)

https://youtu.be/_-MimyH3fKY check this one out , like everyone is saying its trial and error but its always better if you have a starting point. i know people on here know how to shoot its just a little extrA info to make things easier!!!!!


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

That video shows nothing. If you're painting, you should already know that more pressure atomizes better and thinner viscosity will lay flatter.

I set my fan a fluid on a piece of masking paper on the wall. Once you get to know the gun. It comes natural

Ok starting point
1. Set you fan and fluid correct
2. adjust psi higher then you think. You can always start backing it down. To low will not atomize and create major orange peel.
3. Learn a good distance and speed. Trial and error. Because distance and speed changes when you change gun settings. So the settings dictate where your distance and speed will be.(for instance, to much fluid and you need to back up and move faster. to lil fluid, you need to get closer and move slower) common sense.
4. Clear is suppossed to go on as wet as you can get it without running. Thats why activator temp/ambient temp is so important. (To slow of activator and if you go wet like you should, it will run cause it wont stop moving. If its to fast of activator, and you go even wetter then you should to try and get it to flow and it just stops moving and dries orange peely almost instantly)

Temps play a huge roll in the results. If its hot and its drying to fast. And you go wetter to compensate, you could get runs with orange peel on them. Lol

In the summer I use slow activator. Winter I use medium. Never fast cause its just to fast. Clear moves and flows for a good 5-10 minutes. If you cant see it flowing as time goes on and ot stops to fast. You need slower activator. If it dont stop moving and keep flowing and your yelling at the clear to stop. Its to cold for that activator, its to slow. 

I hope this helps. Ive been painting in my garage for 15 years. And believe it or not ive busted out some sick paint jobs.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

That helps. 

I'm pretty sure i had air pressure too low when spraying this primer and got instant orange peel out the gun. The paint was 26 months old, it was 66 degrees and humidity was 65-70%. As i sprayed more and adjusted i got more of a nice smooth flow. Already laid the paint on top and no intention of using clear. I may try buff it out in a month or so or use the nib files to get some trash out of the final coat. Just a winter car i had sanded to metal years ago and has been taking up garage space. 




I held the gun at too much of an angle and had some striping going on too. It didnt show up as well in shop lights but i seen it between coats when i turned lights off.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

swangin68 said:


> That video shows nothing. If you're painting, you should already know that more pressure atomizes better and thinner viscosity will lay flatter.
> 
> I set my fan a fluid on a piece of masking paper on the wall. Once you get to know the gun. It comes natural
> 
> ...


What gun do you prefer? I have an iwata lph400 for clear ive done test panels with it but not a complete car yet


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## E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ (Feb 19, 2011)

swangin68 said:


> That video shows nothing. If you're painting, you should already know that more pressure atomizes better and thinner viscosity will lay flatter.
> 
> I set my fan a fluid on a piece of masking paper on the wall. Once you get to know the gun. It comes natural
> 
> ...


 so whats the correct fan and fluid adjustment, and how do you set it up? since its common sense. :thumbsup: im sure you can explain it with those 15 years of painting.


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

lone star said:


> What gun do you prefer? I have an iwata lph400 for clear ive done test panels with it but not a complete car yet


 I use that gun as well for clear only. Thats my fave clear only gun. I also live my sata 95 and sata 2000. The lph atomizes beautifully. The satas do better on overalls cause the put out more material faster. So Im not painting for 16 hours


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

E$TE*LADO*CUSTOM$ said:


> so whats the correct fan and fluid adjustment, and how do you set it up? since its common sense. :thumbsup: im sure you can explain it with those 15 years of painting.


Ill try and explain.

First thing I do when grabbing a new gun.

1. I usually open the fluid and fan all the way to see how the gun responds. 
2. I spray on some paper at a neutral distance to see the fan shape, height, and how much material it put down. 
3.Usually the fan will be spread, spraying top and bottom heavy with a empty gap in the middle. So I turn my fan in till it shows as big as possible while evening the spray pattern. Youtube spray pattern maybe?
4. Then for fluid adjustment, Its alot of eyeballing. I try and spray with it wide open to see how it goes on. If it looks to be to much I back it in 1/2-1 turn. It also changes for a complete or a small project. Your gonna want more material for a complete. Since your gonna be moving alot faster. Also the more fluid the harder it is for the gun to atomize.
Keep in mind you have to usually double check your fan after you move the fluid in. 

Ill also double check my fan by turning it in and checkng the spray pattern till it gets small and tighter then back it out again checkng it as I go to see how the fan is reacting. Then go till it get the biggest pattern while being even from top to bottom then go out another 1/2 turn or so and see how it varys. Hard to explain. Its just a balancing act. Alot is trial and error.

5. But on my lph400 for clear. I run it at 28-30 psi, fan turn in from max about 1.5 turn and fluid either all the way out or up to 1/2 turn in from max. On my satas since they put out more fluid, I run 45 psi, with my fluid turned in from max up to 2 turns. The fan I set the same as any gun.

6. To set your fluid to max.
- back it out all the way
- pull the trigger
- start turning the fluid adjustement in till it hits the trigger(you can feel it push foward on your finger)
- back it to where it just before touching the trigger
- that is Max fluid.

Hope that helps


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

For those who really want to know what it takes to have the best results .... ONE WORD...." technique " you can go on reading tech sheets after tech... videos... simply just watching someone do it... feedback from the most experienced painter ... ( on a positive note! ) if you aint got it, keep working at it.


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

swangin68 said:


> There is no technique for wetter looking clear. Its all in the brand of clear and sanding and flow coating.
> 
> Doing a straight 4 coats and if you block it down with 800 then go up to 2500,3000 is the right way he is talking about.
> 
> ...




Sure theirs a Technique swangin68.... that will minimize man hours and I mean HOURS of sanding it down... at that startring with 800... thats crazy if anyone is working the numbers to buff it .


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

No its not just technique. Thats 50% of a paint job. My technique is not that great at times. If im tired or just making mistakes. 

But my understanding the concept of how clear works is where I can fix an error or know what to do if it aint coming out how it should. And adapt to the issues that arise. 

Your technique can be spot on. But what if its orange peeling? Do you go wetter? Do you overlap more? What? Or do you just rely on your set technique?

If its orange peeling its prob flashing to fast and stop moving after 1 minute. So going wetter will just yield more build up a run then stop with runs and orange peel. But if you keep that technique, and retard the activator to slow it down. To where the clear has time to move/flow. It will flatten itself out without changing technique at all. When you might have compensated to fix the problem with technique. You just made it worse. It was the flash time all along.

If anyone is in socal id be more then willing to teach in person. Or you can call me. Its a lil easier to explain detailed things talking. Pm me if you want.


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

green reaper said:


> Sure theirs a Technique swangin68.... that will minimize man hours and I mean HOURS of sanding it down... at that startring with 800... thats crazy if anyone is working the numbers to buff it .


I kinda ment no technique to get it wetter persay.

Yes there is definetly a technique to go faster and be more efficient to save man hours.


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

cashmoneyspeed said:


> That helps.
> 
> I'm pretty sure i had air pressure too low when spraying this primer and got instant orange peel out the gun. The paint was 26 months old, it was 66 degrees and humidity was 65-70%. As i sprayed more and adjusted i got more of a nice smooth flow. Already laid the paint on top and no intention of using clear. I may try buff it out in a month or so or use the nib files to get some trash out of the final coat. Just a winter car i had sanded to metal years ago and has been taking up garage space.
> 
> ...


striping can also be from either to wide of overlap, to close to the surface or fan is adjusted to small. Or a combo of 2 or 3 of those things.


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

For the most part one would normally see errors on clear after 30 min or longer, any sooner than that! certainly their are techniques to get rid of them. What would I do if see orange peel.... depends on what stage I'm in but I would normally over-reduce... no overlap... just FEEL IT OUT... "movement" "distance" " timing" TECHNIQUE


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

swangin68 said:


> I kinda ment no technique to get it wetter persay.
> 
> Yes there is definetly a technique to go faster and be more efficient to save man hours.


:thumbsup:


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

truth is that not all experienced painters have the answer. Chemicals change all the time... BEST WAY IS TO buy the product you feel that fits your budget........... trial and error for best results.... each to his own liking


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

green reaper said:


> For the most part one would normally see errors on clear after 30 min or longer, any sooner than that! certainly their are techniques to get rid of them. What would I do if see orange peel.... depends on what stage I'm in but I would normally over-reduce... no overlap... just FEEL IT OUT... "movement" "distance" " timing" TECHNIQUE


Over reducing isnt a technique, and I wouldnt do that ever anyway. Thats masking the real problem. And you say you would just feel it out. Ok thats good, but thats advanced technique and also masking the problem. These guys wanted breakdowns of the basics. And the right way to learn. Im trying to help. 

First you get the knowledge and concept of materials and equipment. Then you apply those things. Then as you get experience way later comes advanced technique such as "feeling" it out, to help you when your in extreme temps or using different materials etc.. those things are good to know but more of a bandaid fix while your there. But later the real problem needs to be adrressed to become a better painter. The idea is to make it easy to do. Not rely on advanced techniques or "feel" although feel is necassary.

Sorry to ramble


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

swangin68 said:


> Ill try and explain.
> 
> 
> 5. But on my lph400 for clear. I run it at 28-30 psi, fan turn in from max about 1.5 turn and fluid either all the way out or up to 1/2 turn in from max. On my satas since they put out more fluid, I run 45 psi, with my fluid turned in from max up to 2 turns. The fan I set the same as any gun.
> ...


Thanks im going to try this. Ive gotten to where i can get a glass finish buffing but my goal is to come out the gun. Smooth enuff to just use 2000 grit before rubbing compounds. Its too much work to start with anything more course. I dont have a booth but i have a shop i like to keep pretty clean


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## fontaine4 (May 1, 2010)

What's some good Euro clears?


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## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

How long do you wait from your first round of clear to flow coat? How are you guys buffing over body lines, door gaps, etc?taping?


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

LostInSanPedro said:


> How long do you wait from your first round of clear to flow coat? How are you guys buffing over body lines, door gaps, etc?taping?


I waited over a week on the one I last did. And will buff later on.


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## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

I see alot of people saying to wet sand from 1000 up to 3000 and finer before buffing, what about for lighter colors? obviously for black you want all your scratches out but what about something like silver or gold? is 2000 enough?


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

2000 is plenty. Finer paper just saves buffing time.


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## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

Thanks


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