# Finally made the hydraulic quick disconnect...



## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Finally made the hydraulic quick disconnect...
using the pressure of your cars run away motor to work for you.

PART 1) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkvE90PUdCY

PART 2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjn4NaueLMg&feature=channel&list=UL


This is a very rough proto-type. Day images and more details will be posted on http://hydros.biz/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=67fa6ea503aa0ff56db5379cdb107bf3&topic=202


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## 81monte505 (Aug 16, 2012)

How did you do that? Did you use a hose from the pump running to it from the built up pressure from holding the switch too long? Let me know the details and process looks like a great idea


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

81monte505 said:


> How did you do that? Did you use a hose from the pump running to it from the built up pressure from holding the switch too long? Let me know the details and process looks like a great idea



in short, you open another NC valve, this then extends a cylinder connected to the quick disconnect, when cylinder extends, disconnect is separated. All power is lost. 

I have posted this idea and diagram for years, I will look for the diagram asap. found it: http://hydros.biz/forum/index.php?topic=202.0 start at the bottom and work your way up the diagram.

Image is crude, design is crude, all is ghetto. YET, another first innovation for the history of Lowriding


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## PAKO PRIMERO (Oct 28, 2009)

Interesting but what it happens in case of a short circuit or in case of overload?
should therefore have an auxiliary battery to operate your system if I understand well ...


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

PAKO PRIMERO said:


> Interesting but what it happens in case of a short circuit or in case of overload?
> should therefore have an auxiliary battery to operate your system if I understand well ...


hmm... I guess I need to know what you mean by "short circuit or in case of overload" If I have it right, it would not matter, if your noids stick, this is the worst that can happen as it can and does cause other big problems. The only way to overcome this would be to disconnect the ground cable from the battery.


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## PAKO PRIMERO (Oct 28, 2009)

ok,i understand now it's work with the dump:thumbsup:
i prefer the manual disconnect, it must be rotated in order to disconnect...So it's a good idea to recover the overflow to feed ur system


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## Big Roach Hydros (Nov 29, 2005)

:thumbsup:


Hydros said:


> Finally made the hydraulic quick disconnect...
> using the pressure of your cars run away motor to work for you.
> 
> link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkvE90PUdCY
> ...


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

really like this one. It has the potential of being a killer detail too imo. It could have its own trick framework and all. Not that its really needed, but theres a lot of stuff thats not really needed but its nice to have.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Actualy, why not make it work with a 'vert top pump hooked to the engine battery and activated by a dash switch? Bad idea?


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

Cool idea bro


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjn4NaueLMg&feature=youtu.be

PART 2) More light and better action


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## EliseoArteaga7 (Apr 6, 2011)

Hydros said:


> wait a minute.............
> 
> Now lets see it improved on:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjn4NaueLMg&feature=youtu.be


wow bro you may have something to patent... better believe iyll look killer with hardlines and chrom framework


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## southsyde64 (May 15, 2009)

Hydros said:


> wait a minute.............
> 
> Now lets see it improved on:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjn4NaueLMg&feature=youtu.be


No offence bro but sometimes I read ur post and think ur making stuff up...but dam I really like this .its 
a cool idea..


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

EliseoArteaga7 said:


> wow bro you may have something to patent... better believe iyll look killer with hardlines and chrom framework


EliseoArteaga7, thanks, one thing about Lowriding and Lowriders is there is a lot of respect for originality and who came first. If someone else came along and made a kit and sold them, and then I came out and made a kit, who would be copying who? Riders would more likely buy from the originator and want it stamped/engraved to prove it. Many thanks to all the positive replies and comments and other ideas. More on the way.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

southsyde64 said:


> No offence bro but sometimes I read ur post and think ur making stuff up...but dam I really like this .its
> a cool idea..


Thanks Southsyde64, Ahh it's OK, I have always believed in me, just takes time. Thought I'd better get these ideas out, I only have so many more years left.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

dogbonekustoms said:


> really like this one. It has the potential of being a killer detail too imo. It could have its own trick framework and all. Not that its really needed, but theres a lot of stuff thats not really needed but its nice to have.
> :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
> Actualy, why not make it work with a 'vert top pump hooked to the engine battery and activated by a dash switch? Bad idea?


It is a good idea and may catch on too, but, I never want to depend on something else that might give out before I need it. I just need to make sure, the system controls itself and can also be tested without the need of another system. Too many things to depend on, kinda like just KIS, (for now)


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

yeah, cant argue with that.


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## Granada (May 3, 2012)

Nice idea:thumbsup:!what do you think about a twoway cylinder? Maybe you Could put the disconect back together with the Same switch.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Granada said:


> Nice idea:thumbsup:!what do you think about a twoway cylinder? Maybe you Could put the disconect back together with the Same switch.


Thanks Granada, 

actual it is a two way, I didn't know I had one, so I made the plans for a one way.


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## ICED BOXX (Feb 15, 2007)

you really do have some great ideas but im curious, do people really have that many issues, ive been running my same motors and noids in my car for 6 years now without any issues. Whammy, 3 batts to the rear and 6 to the front, always on the switch.


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## ICED BOXX (Feb 15, 2007)

16 batts in the hopper burned my share of motors but never noids


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## CoupeDTS (Nov 10, 2007)

Granada said:


> Nice idea:thumbsup:!what do you think about a twoway cylinder? Maybe you Could put the disconect back together with the Same switch.


that was my thoughts. But with the disconnect disconnected how would the pump or dump have power to bring it back together? And then if this thing pulls apart the disconnect, is this a backup disconnect and then you have another under your seat or out the back? Because otherwise youll have to get in the trunk and push this thing back together every time you want it connected.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Excellent point, I wanted to use a double acting, thought I didn't have one, so plans were made to use a single. The one you see is a double acting, the strap is covering it. I will reconfigure and make it for you all. The key is to getting the connectors to close perfect each time, I have two different plans, and more plans for sure will materialize. 

BTW, at this time, what you do is install a temp ground, BUT... only after you first open the trunk and make the needed repair/s.









Not perfect yet, just wanted to make it and post ASAP. Most time was spent trying to find the right fittings.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

CoupeDTS said:


> that was my thoughts. But with the disconnect disconnected how would the pump or dump have power to bring it back together? And then if this thing pulls apart the disconnect, is this a backup disconnect and then you have another under your seat or out the back? Because otherwise youll have to get in the trunk and push this thing back together every time you want it connected.


This is the primary disconnect, real fast. The backup can be the way we usually have it. But I think it will make the hopper look more like a pro if there is not need to rush to pull the disconnect. Just stand there and keep looking cool.


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

so the cylinder is actuated by oil passing thru a "relief valeve" when the motors are stuck on causing built up pressure correct?? my problem is how do you keep that valve from popping open while your hopping?? its to my thinking that its going to be disconnecting your power more often when you dont want it to. the idea of a "power instant disconnect" is great but i really think it should be done with an alternate power source and a seperate switch, seems way more trouble free.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

6Deuced said:


> so the cylinder is actuated by oil passing thru a "relief valeve" when the motors are stuck on causing built up pressure correct?? my problem is how do you keep that valve from popping open while your hopping?? its to my thinking that its going to be disconnecting your power more often when you dont want it to. the idea of a "power instant disconnect" is great but i really think it should be done with an alternate power source and a seperate switch, seems way more trouble free.


Thanks for your comment 6Deuced. Did you happen to see the diagram on the hydros website?


*so the cylinder is actuated by oil passing thru a "relief valve" when the motors are stuck on causing built up pressure correct??* _Cylinder is actuated with a separate normally closed valve. No relief valve is on the service side. BUT one could be added for safety on the disconnect side._

*my problem is how do you keep that valve from popping open while your hopping?? *_Are you asking about the relief or dump valve, if dump valve, an Adex dose not pop open, (IMO)._

*its to my thinking that its going to be disconnecting your power more often when you dont want it to.* _This is very possible, just like sitting on the switch, or a bad switch or you are working in the truck and connect the wrong wire and down comes the back end and the trunk lid on your head. Anything is possible, but at this time does anyone's dump valve activate itself? _

*the idea of a "power instant disconnect" is great but i really think it should be done with an alternate power source and a separate switch, seems way more trouble free. *_
Good thought, I am beginning to catch on that there are those that want to use an automatic ground, not just for run away motors. __Sure I can make one up. __You'll still need to disconnect all power going to this external controller before working on your setup.__ When it comes to working on your hydraulics, the controller must be 100% deactivated. Can the separate systems activate on it's own in some way at the wrong time. __Safe meaning to your fingers and hands and eyes.

_*All of your comments and replies are all good and welcomed. You know, like gets the juices flowing, etc.

ICED BOXX yours is IMO very unique. Could you share more info? Here or make your own thread. I'd personally like to study your setup first hand, but I see your are in Texas.*


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## ICED BOXX (Feb 15, 2007)

> *ICED BOXX yours is IMO very unique. Could you share more info? Here or make your own thread. I'd personally like to study your setup first hand, but I see your are in Texas.*


In no way am i trying to hijack your thread. 
Over the years ive made a "formula" not a (not a trade secret). This goes for all the setups i do:
1) Always build battery and pump rack directly to the frame.
2) Start off with fresh NEW (never refurbished or used!) batteries all same size, cca, and connecting terminals. group31 marine terminal preferred. The reason i dont ever deal with refurbished is that when a large reman company or battery distributor takes in core batts they dont care what the cca is they just refurb and slap their sticker on it and its out the door.
3) Grounds are just important as the power feeding the motors, make sure the motors are 100% grounded. Ensure that there is no grease, paint or oil between the motor and pump block and the same between pump block and mounting area. If i do paint the rack before installing setup, the rack is grinded or sanded to bare metal and taped off where the block makes contact with the mount.
4) I dont really care for accumaxx noids, i run borg warner select noids they run about $17 each but worth it in the long run. Also sanding the contact area of the noid and mouting area. when the noids are manufactured they have a anti corrosive coating that can hinder contact. Then we mount them wit 5/16 bolts never screws or self tappers, mounted directly to the rack, never the tie down or the trunk floor! 
5) Nothing smaller than 4 gauge wire depending on how many batts are in a series, 6-8 batts 2 gauge, 10 and up 0 gauge, welding wire, NO car starter cables, amplifier wire, speaker wire, house wire or any of that other shit ive seen on l.i.l.
6) A good disconnect, for example the one your using or a my fav the forklift connector, the issue with the tube style is that its not going to make a true contact until its twisted.

7) Switch wires, i never run switch boxes 1, there dangerous as hell 2, they're made cheap as dirt, bottom shelf switches bottom shelf wiring. i wire all my setups myself with 14/18 gauge, sometimes doubling up on noid jumpers depending on setup.

oh and yes i run 3 noids in a series on 4 batts or more
8) KEEP YOUR BATTERIES CHARGED AND FREE OF CORROSION, DONT HIT THE SWITCH FOR AN HOUR OR SO AFTER YOU TAKE THE CHARGER OFF, PERIODICALLY HAVE YOUR BATTS LOAD TESTED (testers only $20 at harbor freight). only thing that can cause noids to stick is bad cell in series, bad ground, or holdin the switch wit dead batts.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

ICED BOXX said:


> In no way am i trying to hijack your thread.
> Over the years ive made a "formula" not a (not a trade secret). This goes for all the setups i do:
> 1) Always build battery and pump rack directly to the frame.
> 2) Start off with fresh NEW (never refurbished or used!) batteries all same size, cca, and connecting terminals. group31 marine terminal preferred. The reason i dont ever deal with refurbished is that when a large reman company or battery distributor takes in core batts they dont care what the cca is they just refurb and slap their sticker on it and its out the door.
> ...


Good info. what do you mean by "i run 3 noids in a series on 4 batts or more" and "14/18 gauge"?

I am so confident my noids will not stick, I got a plate of solid copper and am going to solder the noids on to the plate, (OK another first) Then use some of the plate pieces, drill them out , then connect those strips of copper to the noids in series and parallel. Then solder a ground cable and connect the other end to the other side of the block, maybe I should run this cable end to the motor case instead. The solenoid plate will have just two bolts holding it to ground, then I"ll have a backup plate w/ ground cable, so I can change the whole plate with in a minute or two, if something did go wrong. 

I always double up on the power cables to the motor and the disconnect is bolted to the block mount. 

From your info, I will now run an extra ground to the motor itself. Borg Warner is a excellent company, I didn't know they make solenoids. On the switch, I like 12/3. I don't care too much for the ground cable used in the video, I am hunting for other types or designs. When we used vise-gripes, I had always thought about a cable running to the driver, just pull the cable and the vise-grips snap open.

Another is the cable connectors, I like to use the welding type, pricy, but thicker. 

In time the battery terminals will start to crown, IMO this causes less contact, unless your eye loop connectors concaved too. One of many thought was to use those copper washers, like those used in fuel injection seals, and then place them at the lower part of the battery terminal where is has worn down, then connect the cable end. I think the way to avoid this crowning would be to start off using large copper washers with the hole just a hair larger than the battery post, this is when you first get the batteries


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## ICED BOXX (Feb 15, 2007)

noids example: on JuiceBoxx im running 6 batts total 3 to the rear on two noids and six to the front with 3 noids at the end of the bank, but i have ran 3 or even 5 in the middle of a series to keep the voltage down inside the noids. 
ive also ran "six packs" but thats a whole nother topic


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

How about some kind of 12v electric actuator that runs off the vehicle power?


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

ICED BOXX said:


> In no way am i trying to hijack your thread.
> Over the years ive made a "formula" not a (not a trade secret). This goes for all the setups i do:
> 1) Always build battery and pump rack directly to the frame.
> 2) Start off with fresh NEW (never refurbished or used!) batteries all same size, cca, and connecting terminals. group31 marine terminal preferred. The reason i dont ever deal with refurbished is that when a large reman company or battery distributor takes in core batts they dont care what the cca is they just refurb and slap their sticker on it and its out the door.
> ...


Good info :thumbsup:. 

But there's nothing _inherently_ wrong with welding cable, car audio cable, a solid busbar, etc as long conductivity is sufficient, which is based on cross sectional area and material(copper vs al.).

I always use full copper and choose the size based on current and length of the wire. That goes for anything electrical not just hydraulics.


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## ICED BOXX (Feb 15, 2007)

True, ive used amp wire but only by customer requests its more of a cosmetic thing. The strand count is the important part, some audio companys are designing some really good "amp" wire lately


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

87gbody said:


> How about some kind of 12v electric actuator that runs off the vehicle power?


I like this one: http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j...n-Stop-Electric-Automatic-Linear-Actuator.jpg

what I would prefer is two large plates that get pushed and pulled apart/together. Plus with a manual over ride. 

Not like a knife switch, but more like the contacts in the 12 VDC solenoids, just with no solenoid. Movement of the contact plates are made via the electric actuator, and there is a lever to override. All enclosed. 

Come to think of it, why don't we just use this idea for our solenoids? Just copper plates and no electrical controller (solenoid). Or maybe a hydraulic double acting cylinder is the electrical solenoid replacement, It will never stick!

OK remember I thought of it first. 11-24-2012 page is MHTML'd Ahh, but what is going to control the cylinder? Air, fluid, electric actuator?

Now see where this thread has went, from one design, comments and replies and now a new idea about a way to actuate the 12 VDC solenoids we use. 

This is the one thing about the hydraulic section in LIL, ideas are sometimes not allowed to grow, The haters jump in then, then others avoid the thread. 
--- OK another plug for hydros.biz, this is why I made the site, to brainstorm ideas and create improvements related to hydraulics. I know where to save these pages and info for future easy access.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

ICED BOXX said:


> True, ive used amp wire but only by customer requests its more of a cosmetic thing. The strand count is the important part, some audio companys are designing some really good "amp" wire lately


Anybody make see through cables? And with colored -whats that glass or plastic thread called where you can run light through it? Anyways, anything like that out there? Plus the cables only light up when power is running through them or just stay on.

OK another one, used with a hopper or dancer, as the car dumps, the fluid passes though some devises that create a different sound each time the car is dumped. It plays a tune/sound, may have many reasons to use. There are many many uses of the spent power while dumping. Maybe like a large Dwain bobble head popping up out on each dump. (JK) 

Just a bunch of thoughts/ideas, thank you haters for keeping it cool. --


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

CoupeDTS said:


> that was my thoughts. But with the disconnect disconnected how would the pump or dump have power to bring it back together? And then if this thing pulls apart the disconnect, is this a backup disconnect and then you have another under your seat or out the back? Because otherwise youll have to get in the trunk and push this thing back together every time you want it connected.


That was why i suggested the separate unit idea runnin on the car batt.
Some good info on this thread thou, and some crazy ass shit


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## undr8ed (May 25, 2003)

Hydros said:


> Anybody make see through cables? And with colored -whats that glass or plastic thread called where you can run light through it? Anyways, anything like that out there? Plus the cables only light up when power is running through them or just stay on.
> 
> OK another one, used with a hopper or dancer, as the car dumps, the fluid passes though some devises that create a different sound each time the car is dumped. It plays a tune/sound, may have many reasons to use. There are many many uses of the spent power while dumping. Maybe like a large Dwain bobble head popping up out on each dump. (JK)
> 
> Just a bunch of thoughts/ideas, thank you haters for keeping it cool. --


Ya'll must have some FIRE in Escondido 

So you're saying I can play "tequila" when I dump my car to match my Wolo "tequila" horn???


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

ICED BOXX said:


> True, ive used amp wire but only by customer requests its more of a cosmetic thing. The strand count is the important part, some audio companys are designing some really good "amp" wire lately


Actually, strand count only counts for one thing which is flexibility. The myth that higher strand count always conducts better has been around a while, because there is some truth to it when it comes to very high frequency AC voltage.


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

Hydros said:


> Anybody make see through cables? And with colored -whats that glass or plastic thread called where you can run light through it? Anyways, anything like that out there? Plus the cables only light up when power is running through them or just stay on.
> 
> OK another one, used with a hopper or dancer, as the car dumps, the fluid passes though some devises that create a different sound each time the car is dumped. It plays a tune/sound, may have many reasons to use. There are many many uses of the spent power while dumping. Maybe like a large Dwain bobble head popping up out on each dump. (JK)
> 
> Just a bunch of thoughts/ideas, thank you haters for keeping it cool. --


How about something similar to electric regenerative breaking found on hybrids, that would spin a little generator to top off the batts...

Also, I thought it was interesting that the hydraulic regenerative breaking system found in UPS trucks works almost like a piston pump.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

87gbody said:


> How about something similar to electric regenerative breaking found on hybrids, that would spin a little generator to top off the batts...
> 
> Also, I thought it was interesting that the hydraulic regenerative breaking system found in UPS trucks works almost like a piston pump.


Another great idea by *87gbody*. Also, during regular driving (as the car comes up and dips) you can harness power. I thought I read someplace that they also use hydraulics to start the engines on the UPS trucks. Hmm... a back up starting system for automatics trans if your starter fails. 

What I would like to see is a system that tells the driver when a exterior light is out on older cars.


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## ICED BOXX (Feb 15, 2007)

87gbody said:


> Actually, strand count only counts for one thing which is flexibility. The myth that higher strand count always conducts better has been around a while, because there is some truth to it when it comes to very high frequency AC voltage.


Flexibility is one of the keys.


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## MONSTERGATE1 (Feb 6, 2010)

Hydros said:


> Another great idea by *87gbody*. Also, during regular driving (as the car comes up and dips) you can harness power. I thought I read someplace that they also use hydraulics to start the engines on the UPS trucks. Hmm... a back up starting system for automatics trans if your starter fails.
> 
> What I would like to see is a system that tells the driver when a exterior light is out on older cars.


Good info here.OH, buy the way they have a system for older cars that tell you when a light is out,its called the Vigilite system.Wanna buy one .You see me workin here rite .


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## Ahhwataday (Jun 7, 2009)

EliseoArteaga7 said:


> wow bro you may have something to patent... better believe iyll look killer with hardlines and chrom framework


Too late, I already saw a commercial on tv for it.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

MONSTERGATE1 said:


> Good info here.OH, buy the way they have a system for older cars that tell you when a light is out,its called the Vigilite system.Wanna buy one .You see me workin here rite .


Yeah Monstergate, took a look, looks like there were an option in the Chevelles I didn't spend too much time reading it, but I think I got the idea. BUT, maybe this idea is the very same one, you have a sensor that shows when there is power going to a devise, but there is no return signal like from the ground side. This might be the way it works these days, looks like the plastic on the cars are no good for grounds, so each bulb has it's own ground. I guess something could be rigged up with wires all over the place, that or place those parking mirrors at the front and rear or your car, like some big rigs and postal service has. - JK

another way, and this is real iffy, use an amp meter see the draw with the lights, turn everything on, hit the brakes and high beem, you should have the same amp readings everytime.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)




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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Ahhwataday said:


> Too late, I already saw a commercial on tv for it.


Good one


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

*update on a second design...*

Another idea is to use two flat thick plates (could be cylinder shaped too and inside a tube) and a two port cylinder, 

One plate is stationary and the other plate is connected to the cylinder and the ground for the system is bolted to the stationary plate, the other plate is connected to the cylinder, (or visa-versa). In this system, the cylinders pulls the plates apart. This is an easier system to reconnect, but even the welding cable design is also easy if re-designed.

The cylinder has a spring/coil causing pressure to be applied to the plates. When fluid is applied to the cylinder, the plates are pulled away. In this design, any pressure in the disconnect system keeps the plates separated. Once a repair is made, or to just reconnect the plates, open a slow down and the fluid pressure is released from the cylinder and spring pressure then reconnects the plates/contacts. 

Recall, there is 100% no power to the hydraulic system, for safety, you release pressure and then you have voltage. This system could use a NC valve but again, there is a need for voltage. 

Others thoughts, the plates can be smaller if the surface is 'v" shaped, to allow for more surface area contact. This may or may not be advantages.

Any type of linear/rotating device would work in place of the hydraulic cylinder. And you may see others with similar designs appearing, but would use an external power source. This design, removes all need for an external power source. And is tamper proof once activated, as the reconnect is locked inside the trunk.

If a compact unit can be made, the size might be the same as a 6-pack, a box with one cable, one wire and two small hydraulic hoses, then a slowdown handle is accessible. Reason for the one cable is that the box is grounded.


PMs and emails welcomed. Or use the link on the first page.

update 12-26-12 -- got to thinking

1) instead of a hydraulics powering the cylinder, if an actuator is fast enough, then this might be a different solution. 
2) or use a air cylinder, just open a valve and compressed air separates the ground, 
3) or use a hydraulic accumulator, that one blast of fluid/air could be all it needs.

-- looking into a mechanical way to separate too. Like an electric plunger to break the current flow.

I am thinking a solenoid operated mechanical plunger might be the best solution. This are kinda cool to watch. This lever activated a mechanical dump valve that then dumped the car. 

If it can be made like a trip-wire, Just needs to move less than an inch, then it trips and springs keep it open. Got to hit up the surplus stores and ebay.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

If it can be made like a trip-wire, Just needs to move less than an inch, then it trips and springs keep it open. 















An example: on the starter, remove the armature, (replace with the ground cable), the solenoid plunger will kick the starter gear into the fly wheel. I don't recall ever being able to force the plunger when it's activated. The lever itself can provide plenty of leverage if needed. 

pros? cons? 

This one has merit, parts are everywhere. yet using just the solenoid to push/pull seems easier to make. Could start the build tonight, and, get the bugs out. Then the video.

If these types of innovation posts interest you, take a look at my sig, the jokes are cool, but I need to lock my topics just in case old flames/flamers show up.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Any updates on this


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> Any updates on this


Sorry, been busy on the Hydros-Hybrid. I was just thinking about the solenoid idea a few days back.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> Sorry, been busy on the Hydros-Hybrid. I was just thinking about the solenoid idea a few days back.


No problem..just was wondering how this was coming along. Was looking for an easy way for the disconnect since im in a wheelchair an cant get out my ride as quick as normal in case shit goes wrong in the trunk.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> No problem..just was wondering how this was coming along. Was looking for an easy way for the disconnect since im in a wheelchair an cant get out my ride as quick as normal in case shit goes wrong in the trunk.


yeah I got three starters I keep bumping into and then remember the idea, thing is, I am getting old and tire too easily. But you and your posts have given me some incentive to continue with the project. For some reason the idea started to get boring. Got to get these ideas out before the "Big One" 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stdi-1tIUhM


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> yeah I got three starters I keep bumping into and then remember the idea, thing is, I am getting old and tire too easily. But you and your posts have given me some incentive to continue with the project. For some reason the idea started to get boring. Got to get these ideas out before the "Big One"
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stdi-1tIUhM


Hahaha well hopefully the big one is far far away still! 

Yeah just looking for something or someway to make it convenient but yet simple like the pull handle by the seat in the other topic or a on/off switch that can pull apart the disconnect in the trunk an hopefully push it back together like your ideas in this topic. 

Because by the time "if'' something were to go wrong, id be just getting into my chair from transferring off of the drivers seat.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

I dont know If I would use a quick disconnnect...... maybe a fuse breaker


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> Hahaha well hopefully the big one is far far away still!
> 
> Yeah just looking for something or someway to make it convenient but yet simple like the pull handle by the seat in the other topic or a on/off switch that can pull apart the disconnect in the trunk an hopefully push it back together like your ideas in this topic.
> 
> Because by the time "if'' something were to go wrong, id be just getting into my chair from transferring off of the drivers seat.


My idea will not work to push back, as all power is lost in the trunk. You see, once the noids stick, there is no reason to reconnect the ground unless you have been back inside the trunk to repair or charge. You could recharge outside the trunk easily, but I'd replace all noids after they did stick

Do I have this right? You like the idea of the pull handle pull inside, and want to hop out side and near the trunk? This sounds too easy, just keep your switches on a cord, and when you bring them out, (or have a second set), just attach another cable or thick wire to the pull handle. You make this cord to the handle shorter than the switch cable, then if and when the noids stick, pull back on the switch cord. The pull cable being shorter will pull out the handle way before you stretch the switch cable. If you do not want the pull cable on the pull handle, you could use something like those key chain holders, and release switch from the pull handle.

You keep this connected to the handle all the time, then your switch can be set up to fit in a holder. Draw back is the switch cable needs to be tucked out of the way, like behind and on the floor of the drive seat.

Now if we come together on this, again we can come up with all kinds of solutions. My idea above may sound primitive, I just got up. 

No materwhat, are you wanting a disconnect both inside the trunk and the front seat?? LMK.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> My idea will not work to push back, as all power is lost in the trunk. You see, once the noids stick, there is no reason to reconnect the ground unless you have been back inside the trunk to repair or charge. You could recharge outside the trunk easily, but I'd replace all noids after they did stick
> 
> Do I have this right? You like the idea of the pull handle pull inside, and want to hop out side and near the trunk? This sounds too easy, just keep your switches on a cord, and when you bring them out, (or have a second set), just attach another cable or thick wire to the pull handle. You make this cord to the handle shorter than the switch cable, then if and when the noids stick, pull back on the switch cord. The pull cable being shorter will pull out the handle way before you stretch the switch cable. If you do not want the pull cable on the pull handle, you could use something like those key chain holders, and release switch from the pull handle.
> 
> ...


But what if the power source were to come from the car battery itself so it is able to push an pull instead? Would that be possible?

Yes the handle seems good but only reason id look into a way such as yours in this topic is mainly my dexterity in my hands are weak due to my disability i suffered from a few years ago. So by having a button or on/off switch mounted on the dash or console or even on the switchbox it would be easier to operate to pull/push the method in the trunk.

The 2nd idea id go to would be the pull handle if there isnt a way to do it this way first..


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> But what if the power source were to come from the car battery itself so it is able to push an pull instead? Would that be possible?
> 
> Yes the handle seems good but only reason id look into a way such as yours in this topic is mainly my dexterity in my hands are weak due to my disability i suffered from a few years ago. So by having a button or on/off switch mounted on the dash or console or even on the switchbox it would be easier to operate to pull/push the method in the trunk.
> 
> The 2nd idea id go to would be the pull handle if there isnt a way to do it this way first..


OK you are wanting a button or switch on the dash or within easy reach, 
you want the disconnect to be able to reset itself. 
you want to use an external power source.

Can you let me know why you want the disconnect to reset? Is it because of the dexterity? This one I am not seeing your point of view.

and how fast do you need it to disconnect and how fast to reconnect?


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> OK you are wanting a button switch on the dash or within easy reach,
> you want the disconnect to be able to reset itself.
> you want to use an external power source.
> 
> ...


Yes within easy reach would do an off an external power source such as the car battery.

Not really wanting the disconnect to reset by itself. Im thinking (an maybe its not possible) once i switch the button to off the disconnect pops open an doesnt reconnect again until i switch the button back into ON position.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> Yes within easy reach would do an off an external power source such as the car battery.
> 
> Not really wanting the disconnect to reset by itself. Im thinking (an maybe its not possible) once i switch the button to off the disconnect pops open an doesnt reconnect again until i switch the button back into ON position.



and how fast do you need it to disconnect and how fast to reconnect? with this info, I get get an idea of what too use, so far an actuator seems the best bet. 

Anything is almost possible, but, to get a real idea of what you need to what you want, why do you need the disconnected ground to reconnect via a switch/button? 

- This is the part I am not getting, I keep thinking for when the noids stick, then hit the disconnect, then repair the problem, or have someone else do the repairs and then they put back the ground.

Or are you wanting to just disconnect and reconnect the ground for another reason/s?


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> and how fast do you need it to disconnect and how fast to reconnect? with this info, I get get an idea of what too use, so far an actuator seems the best bet.
> 
> Anything is almost possible, but, to get a real idea of what you need to what you want, why do you need the disconnected ground to reconnect via a switch/button?
> 
> ...


Disconnect speed the same as how it was in the videos you posted an reconnect speed something ideal 2-4 seconds or so. 

Reason why im interested in doing it as a switch/button because i see it more convenient because of my disability to where its hard to twist the disconnect myself an get out of the chair in time in case something does go wrong in the trunk. Yes in case noids stick i can disconnect then repair the get someone to manually reconnect,thats not an issue. But when i want to park my ride an disconnect using the switch/button , i dont want to open the trunk everytime just to reconnect when i can just hit the switch/button, know what i mean?


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Perfect!

I'll try to list 10 ideas, hopefully other members can add or comment.
1) small convertible top pump
2) actuator
3) 

got to go....


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> Perfect!
> 
> I'll try to list 10 ideas, hopefully other members can add or comment.
> 1) small convertible top pump
> ...


Ok cool thanks..


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

fellow members, take a look at these. from what I can see, these all move too slow, but I am liking the idea of a lever/s to move the disconnect back and forth faster. The flaw in these??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-li...087?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec6ea5ed7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Ac...186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ba874aa2


http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-12V-Linea...696?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d06ab84a0


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guardian-Electric-T6X12-C-12VDC-Tubular-Solenoid-Linear-Actuator-/160984280776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257b692ec8


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> Disconnect speed the same as how it was in the videos you posted an reconnect speed something ideal 2-4 seconds or so.
> 
> Reason why im interested in doing it as a switch/button because i see it more convenient because of my disability to where its hard to twist the disconnect myself an get out of the chair in time in case something does go wrong in the trunk. Yes in case noids stick i can disconnect then repair the get someone to manually reconnect,thats not an issue. But when i want to park my ride an disconnect using the switch/button , i dont want to open the trunk everytime just to reconnect when i can just hit the switch/button, know what i mean?


got something for you: was going to seed a PM, but, maybe, just maybe, someone else might be interested.
http://hydros.biz/forum/index.php?topic=255.msg1132


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> got something for you: was going to seed a PM, but, maybe, just maybe, someone else might be interested.
> http://hydros.biz/forum/index.php?topic=255.msg1132


Just checked out the drawing..Sure send a PM if needed.

im still interested.


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## KERRBSS (Jan 28, 2005)

Just get a pull style disconnect with the handle on it, mount it under the seat. Done.....it'll never fail like a mechanical one could.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

SIX1RAG said:


> Just get a pull style disconnect with the handle on it, mount it under the seat. Done.....it'll never fail like a mechanical one could.


Strength is my only issue. I mean i can buy it an try it out before actually wiring it up. Its just my dexterity in my hands an strength that would be my issue.


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

What i was thinking awhile back for a dancer i wasnt going to use the cars e-brake.. So instead i was going to try and hook it up to a disconnect.. So in an emergency i could just pull the brake realse and the spring loaded e-brake cable would pull the disconnect apart.. You could try a spring loaded disconnect of some kind


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