# slip yoke



## gasman (Oct 20, 2007)

where can i buy a slip yoke for my regal?? how hard is it to put it on. a simple job or am i going to have to get some air tools


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## blueouija (Apr 24, 2003)

> _Originally posted by gasman_@Dec 8 2007, 08:50 PM~9406107
> *where can i buy a slip yoke for my regal?? how hard is it to put it on. a simple job or am i going to have to get some air tools
> *



first you have to measure the lock up and drop length of the driveshaft.....


you can order one from Big Rich or Black Magic hydraulics... I'm pretty sure Rich will sell a complete driveshaft ready to go...

you you just get the yoke then you'll have to have it put on my a driveshaft specialist in your area who will measure cut and balance the driveshaft for your car....


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## 5DEUCE (Jan 28, 2006)

bigrich is your man!


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by blueouija_@Dec 8 2007, 07:54 PM~9406123
> *first you have to measure the lock up and drop length of the driveshaft.....
> you can order one from Big Rich or Black Magic hydraulics... I'm pretty sure Rich will sell a complete driveshaft ready to go...
> 
> ...


The ones we sell are just the parts with all the machinig done to them and will need to be welded in. 
They work up to 16 cylinders and 20's if you extend the uppers and lowers


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## G2G_Al (Feb 16, 2005)

With that spring do you still have to drill the shaft and put a bolt in it??


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## Paul K (Sep 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by G2G_Al_@Dec 9 2007, 05:30 PM~9407613
> *With that spring do you still have to drill the shaft and put a bolt in it??
> *


No just weld it into the driveline a go !!!!!!! :biggrin: we made it simple


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## baby_blue_regal86 (Jan 19, 2007)

how much .....i need dat asap...i heard of 1 breaking and destroying some guys car...how reliable are they?...and what end does it weld to?


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by baby_blue_regal86_@Dec 9 2007, 01:39 AM~9408062
> *how much .....i need dat asap...i heard of 1 breaking and destroying some guys car...how reliable are they?...and what end does it weld to?
> *


Yea ,he had sent me pics, but from the looks his had driveline bind and the ring part where the u-joint goes in broke. I offered to sell him the yoke that broke. But he wanted it for free..
I have one in every car and have installed over a 100 with never a problem. On suspensions that have hard pinion angle will need to be clearenced. I have just put one on my new single pump caprice and it has drop downs with 1.5 long upper and stock lowers, I am using 16 cylinders and I did need to dress it up alittle. I'll post pics when I'm back at the shop on monday now thats costomeer service, moblie replies at the street races :biggrin:


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## lowridincalivato (Aug 20, 2002)

nice.... :thumbsup:


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## gasman (Oct 20, 2007)

how much is that slip yoke


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## irvings213 (Jul 20, 2006)

BIG RICH


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 8 2007, 10:36 PM~9407328
> *The ones we sell are just the parts with all the machinig done to them and will need to be welded in.
> They work up to 16 cylinders and 20's if you extend the uppers and lowers
> 
> ...




whats the grub scew in the splined section for ?


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)




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## ridenlow84 (May 4, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Dec 10 2007, 05:51 AM~9416209
> *whats the grub scew in the splined section for  ?
> *


to keep the slip yoke from backing off and falling apart


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Paul K_@Dec 9 2007, 02:32 AM~9408016
> *No just weld it into the driveline a go !!!!!!! :biggrin:  we made it simple
> *




:0 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## GARCIA CUSTOMS (Sep 11, 2006)

> _Originally posted by irvings213_@Dec 10 2007, 01:06 AM~9415809
> *BIG RICH
> *


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by ridenlow84_@Dec 10 2007, 09:01 AM~9416888
> *to keep the slip yoke from backing off and falling apart
> *



how does that work ?, if the splines dont run the length of the stub you wouldn't get it together in the first place LOL ??? it looks like it just puts pressure on the stub but thats useless as it wont slip ?

The grease fitting is at the other end.


confused :dunno:


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## Unlimited Hustle (Jul 8, 2002)

We machine down 1 of the splines to 1" before the end of the shaft and use the set screw to keep the shaft and stub together


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## Unlimited Hustle (Jul 8, 2002)

And it has a small taper on it to slide easy and then it gets tighter as it gets closer to the end


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unlimited Hustle_@Dec 10 2007, 09:37 AM~9417096
> *We machine down 1 of the splines to  1" before the end of the shaft and use the set screw to keep the shaft and stub together
> *


dang rick i was gunna say that :biggrin:


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Dec 10 2007, 09:13 AM~9416952
> *how does that work ?, if the splines dont run the length of the stub you wouldn't get it together in the first place LOL ??? it looks like it just puts pressure on the stub but thats useless as it wont slip ?
> 
> The grease fitting is at the other end.
> ...


i thought you had a slip yoke you got "cheap" how does yours stop from coming apart ,the guy in england who did teamrods axle rekons he couldn do the machine work for the price we pay for the bm slip yokes maybe tarun was right "good parts aint cheap n cheap parts aint good " lol :biggrin:


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

hey ron is that slip yoke longer. the one i got from you guys last year looks shorter hehe


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Dec 10 2007, 10:13 AM~9416952
> *how does that work ?, if the splines dont run the length of the stub you wouldn't get it together in the first place LOL ??? it looks like it just puts pressure on the stub but thats useless as it wont slip ?
> 
> The grease fitting is at the other end.
> ...


I seen on other threads you got into and wrote you can find them cheaper. But ,that is what everyone overlooks is all the machining and the spring. The set also allows for more travel then what was designed , because we eliminate the grease boot at the end....I guess Ben never foun you a spring !!!!!


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## Dylante63 (Sep 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 9 2007, 12:49 AM~9408127
> *now thats costomeer service, moblie replies at the street races :biggrin:
> *


haha :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unlimited Hustle_@Dec 10 2007, 09:37 AM~9417096
> *We machine down 1 of the splines to  1" before the end of the shaft and use the set screw to keep the shaft and stub together
> *



Thats cool, its a really good idea, easy to do, and testament to the thought you put into the parts, cant knock that :thumbsup:.

I didnt get a spring because he didn't have them at the time and i couldn't wait, i can source compression springs here no problem.


Here you can decide how 'different' they are for yourselves :thumbsup: 










doesnt look any different to me ? except it was less than half the price and fits my application perfectly. :dunno:


Hey Steve....
good parts aint cheap but over-priced parts will always be over priced ??


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Dec 13 2007, 12:58 PM~9444744
> *Thats cool, its a really good idea, easy to do, and testament to the thought you put into the parts, cant knock that :thumbsup:.
> 
> I didnt get a spring because he didn't have them at the time and i couldn't wait, i can source compression springs here no problem.
> ...


I could sell you just the slip and stub, which you have in the photo for 100 to 125 with the u-jiont...it's the machine work and spring you are paying for.....

Which you have neither....I did all the research, so the standard joe doesn't have too..... Soo it's like comparing apples to oranges !!!!! We made it simple.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 13 2007, 09:58 PM~9449905
> *I could sell you just the slip and stub, which you have in the photo for 100 to 125 with the u-jiont...it's the machine work and spring you are paying for.....
> 
> Which you have neither....I did all the research, so the standard joe doesn't have too..... Soo it's like comparing apples to oranges !!!!! We made it simple.
> *


100-125 is still more than i paid delivered to the UK ! LOL...
I can get a coil spring custom wound to my own spec for £15 ($30) and a grub screw will cost £1 ($2) which i will fit myself so i'm still in pocket and have the satisfaction i did it all myself, all be it a copy of a good available product.

your right there's nothing wrong with making life simple for others and i think you get a lot of props for engineering stuff like this for those that cant, but there's also nothing wrong with learning how to engineer stuff yourself, to me thats the spirit anmd creativeness of lowriding, i like to know how all my stuff works and how its put together rather than just welding stuff in.



Still think i'm wrong ? :dunno: but keep up the good work, its inspirational


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 10 2007, 11:07 PM~9422969
> *I seen on other threads you got into and wrote you can find them cheaper.  But ,that is what everyone overlooks is all the machining and the spring. The set also allows for more travel then what was designed , because we eliminate the grease boot at the end....I guess Ben never foun you a spring !!!!!
> *


u mean these... :biggrin: actually to be real i wasnt goin to show anyone the springs jon had said he wanted to get springs but was gettin a few people together to get a larger order to save on shipping..i dont really care about ur business and your hustle u got these guys eatin out your hand and i aint mad..this was for me..u probaly dont remember how u said i would never find a slip and spring..and i DID it can get a driveline made balanced and new u joints w slip and stub less than what the weld in stubs cost from u..so actually thanks..since u didnt want to do my line u made me money i appreciate it...and the spring is 10 inches longer than the pic it has to be cut down..to fit your need u can machine the collar down a half inch or whatever if u need more..but with tha factory stub i get at the rear bumper 40 inch lock and driveability w all stock parts spring cut to corret length


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

HEY JON-S AND SHIT CARS WILL ALWAYS BE JUST SHIT CARS!!! LOL 

SLIP YOKE FOR A CAR WITH 14'S OR 12'S ???DEPENDING ON WHERE THE TWO INCHS WENT TOO!!!! LOL


measure twice-order once!!


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by ROCKSOLID84_@Dec 14 2007, 08:57 AM~9451851
> *u mean these... :biggrin: actually to be real i wasnt goin to show anyone the springs jon had said he wanted to get springs but was gettin a few people together to get a larger order to save on shipping..i dont really care about ur business and your hustle u got these guys eatin out your hand and i aint mad..this was for me..u probaly dont remember how u said i would never find a slip and spring..and i DID it can get a driveline made balanced and new u joints w slip and stub less than what the weld in stubs cost from u..so actually thanks..since u didnt want to do my line u made me money i appreciate it...and the spring is 10 inches longer than the pic it has to be cut down..to fit your need u can machine the collar down a half inch or whatever if u need more..but with tha factory stub i get at the rear bumper 40 inch lock and driveability w all stock parts spring cut to corret length
> 
> 
> *


Well thanks for the props, and anyone could purchase a slip and stub, The whole thing is the machine work that goes into them. I never said anything about not finding them????Our spring is made for me and pre-set for my specs , which it is flat wound and ground for a propper seat. What also holds it together......We machine the stub and have them set for a maxium expansion distance..(so not to fall apart) Yea, anyone could do it....If you had a machine shop!!!! or they aren't the same.
Here is the differance it comparison








This is ours. fully extended








compressed *note ,no spring bind ,to eliminate vibration*








1/2 way open ,and still seated correct

A non-machined unit.....








spring is just touching and the slip isn't in yet...








this is where it should be at max extension








full compression 1.5 less compression, then ours








and the 1/2 way extension. Look at distrotion of spring.

So, thanks for sending more people to our business


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

AGAIN NO NEED-BUT ONCE AGAIN EXPLAINED WELL FOR ALL TO SEE!! good work!! 

the milk and cookies kid from the uk


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by teamrod_@Dec 14 2007, 01:44 PM~9453702
> *AGAIN NO NEED-BUT ONCE AGAIN EXPLAINED WELL FOR ALL TO SEE!! good work!!
> 
> the milk and cookies kid from the uk
> *


No it's Fort,milk and cookies kid?????? :biggrin:


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

sssssssssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhh its a secret base!


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Dec 13 2007, 12:58 PM~9444744
> *Thats cool, its a really good idea, easy to do, and testament to the thought you put into the parts, cant knock that :thumbsup:.
> 
> I didnt get a spring because he didn't have them at the time and i couldn't wait, i can source compression springs here no problem.
> ...


200.00 for everything is more then fair. We sell our slips with everything need including u-joints..... I'm not knockin people that want to do their own work, thats how I got into this business years ago.
But I also want to see people do clean safe work !!!!!!

I used to use that style (saganaw) slip end yoke which are made from cast iron. I use a fordged steel unit (which cost more)


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

steve d says "good parts aint cheap n cheap parts aint good " lol 


jon s says ''good parts aint cheap but over-priced parts will always be over priced'' ?? 


teamrod says ''knobs will always be knobs-just pay the fucking money and move on!! lol


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 14 2007, 01:38 PM~9453644
> *Well thanks for the props, and anyone could purchase a slip and stub, The whole thing is the machine work that goes into them. I never said anything about not finding them????Our spring is made for me and pre-set for my specs , which it is flat wound and ground for a propper seat. What also holds it together......We machine the stub and have them set for a maxium expansion distance..(so not to fall apart) Yea, anyone could do it....If you had a machine shop!!!! or they aren't the same.
> Here is the differance it comparison
> 
> ...



id rather not explain how mine works its a diffrent slip spring and the line diffrent too..but thats what i expect always a salesman do your thing ..theses are not for sale and i was tryin to make that clear a few people didint want to pay so much fr a few minutes of maching u can do either way..all i will say is that reason its layin down is there is no pressure on it until there needs to be it balanced and runs true,,BUT THESES ARE MADe SOLELY FOR ME AND ARE NOT FOR SALE..this is s a forum on how to help people do this shit at home..u cant get upset on how otheres find ways to do things we all can do anywhere...its not that big a deal..mine work fine dont wobble and do what they need to do..i thinks it better than sliding 2 pieces of square tubing together...


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

Naw don't trip Ben, I Was was just showing the difference.I'm not saying It wouldn't work either. But for me to sell them to the public, they need to be fool proof Thats why I showed the differnce. 

And just for the record I'm not a salesperson...I'm an Inovator!!!! Jessica and Chris do sales. :biggrin: 

See you guys tomorrow....


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## Beanerking1 (Jan 24, 2007)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 14 2007, 02:47 PM~9454522
> *Naw don't trip Ben, I Was was just showing the difference.I'm not saying It wouldn't work either. But for me to sell them to the public, they need to be fool proof Thats why I showed the differnce.
> 
> And just for the record I'm not a saleperson...I'm an Inovator!!!! Jessica and Chris do sells. :biggrin:
> ...


Hey Ron whats the total cost for the complete unit slip snub spring all ready to be welded on? i'm gonna need one for my cadi. :biggrin: oh yea don't forget the big sticks  :biggrin: for tomorrow


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by tatt2danny_@Dec 14 2007, 03:51 PM~9454546
> *Hey Ron whats the total cost for the complete unit slip snub spring all ready to be welded on? i'm gonna need one for my cadi. :biggrin: oh yea don't forget the big sticks   :biggrin: for tomorrow
> *


180 with the holiday discount....If it's big body I have to do a weld on spacer ring......Let me know soon .I will have to make the ring...


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## Beanerking1 (Jan 24, 2007)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 14 2007, 02:59 PM~9454563
> *180 with the holiday discount....If it's big body I have to do a weld on spacer ring......Let me know soon .I will have to make the ring...
> *


cool i'll talk to you about it tomarrow at the show. later


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

the main difference i see is basically a deep seat for the custom ones. I'd pay more for the way it fits better.

BTW, how do i measure to tell if I need a slip or not? Do I just have to wait til i have trailing arms and trans mounted and try the shaft?


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by tatt2danny_@Dec 14 2007, 04:04 PM~9454598
> *cool i'll talk to you about it tomarrow at the show. later
> *


Will there be a BBQ ...we needs eats.... :biggrin:


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Dec 14 2007, 04:11 PM~9454628
> *the main difference i see is basically a deep seat for the custom ones. I'd pay more for the way it fits better.
> 
> BTW, how do i measure to tell if I need a slip or not? Do I just have to wait til i have trailing arms and trans mounted and try the shaft?
> *


If you lock up and the driveline starts to push the trans up. Most of the timke anything over a 12 you'll need a slip...Ours needs just to be lined up with the stock driveline and marked....Then cut and true/weld it in


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## Beanerking1 (Jan 24, 2007)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 14 2007, 03:11 PM~9454634
> *Will there be a BBQ ...we needs eats.... :biggrin:
> *


i'm not sure the women were getting all that part done...
you know pregnant, barefooted and in the kitchen kinda thing!!!! :0 :biggrin: 
don't tell jessica i said that, ha ha ha. 
i'll find out i'm sure we will do something. :biggrin:


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by tatt2danny_@Dec 14 2007, 04:17 PM~9454665
> *i'm not sure the women were getting all that part done...
> you know pregnant, barefooted and in the kitchen kinda thing!!!! :0  :biggrin:
> don't tell jessica i said that, ha ha ha.
> ...


I like your avitar...Skeetin on her face..... :biggrin:


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## gasman (Oct 20, 2007)

right now i got 12 in the back one day (soon) i'll get adjustable lowers in the back.. but will the slip yoke work right now though???? with just the 12 in the back


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

Stop trying to change the topic LOL :biggrin: 



> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Dec 14 2007, 12:38 PM~9453644
> *
> 
> 
> ...



I can see now what extra machining you're talking about, where you've spun the yoke up in the lathe to make the spring seat further back.

I'm guessing you've done this because to get a compression coil to be the right length (about 135mm extended, and only 25-30mm Compressed) is hard to get a wire of the right size (about 2.94 in stainless) to support the weight (enough winds) without flopping about, and yes you'd have to charge for that extra time.

The coil goes wonky on the stub end because of the way the seat isnt machined, but if you decrease the last two winds it wont need machining either two birds one stone and all that, and if use a coil would slightly differently you could elimate all that extra machine work on the yoke and save you a few dollars and time at the shop  

Its all good and thanks for sharing, i think its that that sets you apart from others at present.


Team-Rod i see your still crying about all the wrong stuff as usual, some things never change eh ?


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

haha ron consider yourself told :biggrin:


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## Jolleyrancher (Sep 10, 2005)

is the units that BMH sells a different length than the ones that come from BIG RICH??


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

jon s- come on buddy show us a pic of your cars slip/rear end!!!! i rest my case!! :biggrin:
 







GOOD WORK FELLA-10 years in the scene! :biggrin: 

below is a pic of my first car


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

black magic parts all the way!


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by teamrod_@Dec 16 2007, 03:52 PM~9465443
> *jon s-  come on buddy show us a pic of your cars slip/rear end!!!! i rest my case!!  :biggrin:
> 
> 
> ...



uh.. im not goin to say shit about the slip whatever but those cheap ass edelbrock trailing arms r goin to break and those drops mounts are in incorrectly..u suppose to cut the skirt so they r vertical...


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

hahaha this topic has just started to get good


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)




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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

hah haa your right, do i need to explain or should i let team-rod cut and paste the text that accompaines those pics in this thread, as usual he has no clue: http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...ic=375073&st=20 
its only a few posts down from the top so please read for yourself.

Hey Rocksolid64, the edelbrock arms are fine thanks, infact my last axle broke at the ears because the geometry was getting to extreme, hence adding the drop mounts and doing other work , adding to the testament that they are infact strong, plus have a warranty, although they do look like they need a re-anodize, oh wait, i've got that in hand :thumbsup: 

The drop mounts are straight, i think its the crap angle of the pic, the original thread link above shows that, but i cannot really make excuses for the splash it all over primer i put on there in a rush to provide some protection until i could get to paint them properly as i'm doing the whole undercarriage again LOL.
(not quite sure why i feel i have to explain myself here though? )

Steve, not just got good, just got boring, same old shit slinging from same old person. <yawn>


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

:scrutinize: hno:  :wow: :loco: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

handy work speaks louder than words!! 

same old handy work-same old shit!! lol


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

ok..but u should still cut the skirt for the right math in the rear :biggrin:


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by ROCKSOLID84_@Dec 17 2007, 10:33 AM~9469526
> *ok..but u should still cut the skirt for the right math in the rear :biggrin:
> *



It is cut?, it was cut even when i didnt have drop mounts you can see here on their test fit


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by teamrod_@Dec 16 2007, 02:52 PM~9465443
> *
> 
> below is a pic of my first car
> ...


your rear ends never gunna work right u gotta do ya lock nutts up on them trailing arms


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

yeah i hear you there!! but i made mine so they can only ever swivel cuz i didn't want to break my ears off!!


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by stevie d_@Dec 17 2007, 10:30 PM~9474273
> *your rear ends never gunna work right u gotta do ya lock nutts up on them trailing arms
> *



only applies if you have adjusters at each end of the arm, otherwise the stupid things adjust themselves out or in when you three wheel etc and puts the axle off center LOL :biggrin:


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## CoupeDTS (Nov 10, 2007)

Im still learnin bout these slip yokes but what is wrong with one of these type that go into the tranny? Just shorten the driveshaft and slap one of these on right? Theyre made in different lengths and such.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/7476,,_Dri...mNo=slip%20yoke


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by CoupeDevilleDTS_@Dec 18 2007, 03:37 PM~9478141
> *Im still learnin bout these slip yokes but what is wrong with one of these type that go into the tranny?  Just shorten the driveshaft and slap one of these on right?  Theyre made in different lengths and such.
> 
> http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/7476,,_Dri...mNo=slip%20yoke
> ...



u have to keep pressure onb it..


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