# '66 Lincoln getting bagged



## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

I'll be the first to say I'm not a pro at this, in fact it's the first car I've every bagged. They have kits out the but they're damn expensive, around $5000 with basic air set up. Had to pick a 5000 lb. car that has no frame, all uni-body construction. After lots of reading, studying and taking ideas from Ride Tech on how they make brackets for uni-body cars like Novas I came up with this.

Got me a heavy duty universal kit from Thor Brothers (Suicide Doors)



Got my ride height figured out and pinion angle set and then made a wooden jig to hold the axle in place.



Took my measurements and made a bolt on rear plate and welded on my lower tabs getting lower bars parallel to the ground.







Attached the front of the bar using the stock leaf spring hanger. Just had to get a piece of 16 gauge 3/4 inch tubing to make my own sleeve for the bushing. The stock hanger bolt wouldn't fit inside the one supplied with the 4 link kit.



When lowered it hits on the top of the perch so I notched it a bit and welded some 1/4 plate to that area to make it stronger. Forgot to take a pic when it was done but you get the idea.



The upper brackets are the hard part as there is nothing solid to weld to like a normal frame. Thus the ideas from Air Ride.
Made me a braket pieced together using the seat belt bolt as a locating spot, plus the sheet metal is reinforced there. Then drilled and installed two 1/2 inch bolts where two pieces of sheet metal join, plus it has a bit of a indent there so it makes it even stronger. Backed it with a piece of 1/4 inch plate.








Used PVC tees and pipe to get the right length, didn't want to ruin my good, expensive upper bars to figure this out. It will get two more bolts sleeved through the frame also to hold it in place. I figure this should work great as even Air Ride just uses self-threading 3/8 bolts and I'm using 1/2 inch Grade 8 on everything.







Next got a piece of 3/16 6 X 6 square tube and made my own lower bag mounts with enough height to clear the u-bolts, axle tube breather and bolt to hold on the brake tee tab.





Started with a two inch cup but went down to 1 1/4 inch.



This ones before I trimmed the lower bracket, wasn't sure where it was going to fit at this point.



That's all the pictures I have for now. The upper bag is mounted through the trunk floor and sandwiched between two circle plates. There's also some stuff not shown like I had to trim the C channel that the gas tank strap attaches to a couple of inches to get the upper bag mounts to fit, reroute the gas line on the driver side so the bag would fit and not rub. I have the stuff ready for the EDC but no pictures yet. I'm using the stock York compressor and Kilby pressure switch, coalescing filter and intake filter. Got the fittings for the compressor from my local House of Hose for like $11.00 and a three foot steel braided line to make a loop and give the air a bit to travel to lose as much water s possible at the trap. 

Oh here's a rough start on the trunk. Used ideas I found on the web. Bought a Rigid bender and some aluminum tubing off Ebay and after a few trial and errors ended up with this.






Right now she's off the jack stands and looking bad ass if I may say so myself. Going to get the rear brackets and everything that is tack welded finished welded by a friend who is certified, don't trust myself to weld frame shit yet. While that's happening I'm gonna get the compressor going so I can fill the rear bags and be able to drive her. I figure the front should be a weekend project and my wife's gonna be gone for two weeks again in the middle of June so I'm going to try to get it done then. Here's my nine year old next to her for height comparison. Stock height I believe was 27 inches at the rear wheel well.



Current ride height 2 inches below stock.



Sitting "frame" (really a bunch of sheet metal layers) on axle.



Will post as I make progress.


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

nicce work!!!! An you saved a ton of money doin it yourself. your gonna love that york


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## BuThatsaCHRYSLER (Mar 19, 2002)

Very nicely done!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Thanks. I've been lurking for a long time and of course you know you are one of the knowledgable people on the forum. I was hoping to get a "good job" and not a "hey asswipe, that ain't ever gonna work" comment.
Just took my York off this evening to find out it's not a York but some after market replacement that doesn't have a hole on the side to fill it with oil. I'm going to drill a hole and tap it for a 1/8 or 3/8 inch plug, fill with oil and see if it works. If not off to the junk yard this weekend.


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

If i recall,i remember seeing a guy on here w/ a old lac that used his stock AC pump.Think the pump was a Fridgidair.If i remember he said it worked.Just had to tap a port out


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## Curtis Fisher (Nov 15, 2008)

Nice work bro


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Thanks Curtis. Just read your thread. You're putting a lot into that Caddy, love these big ass land yachts. Guy in my club has a '66 for sale for 5 g's. Told my wife the house would look wwwwaaayyy better with a '66 Lincoln and '66 Caddy in the driveway but she's ain't buying it. Says she's gettin some new boobies first then she wants me to paint the Lincoln so she can look good rollin down the streets. God I love that woman.


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Bit of progress. Got my line ran from my EDC to the outside of the trunk. Took my time to run it cleanly and as discretely as possible. Here's a picture of the filter and such. 


I have a Kilby intake filter just cause that black canister looks a little more like an OEM piece than a blue/red KN filter under the hood. I ran a 3 foot S/S braided line from the EDC to the coalescing filter due to the heat I hear these things put out. Then my check valve, pressure switch and the pressure sensor for my digital valves. When it's all done and I know it's working right I hope to paint it the same color as the engine bay so it kind of blends in.

Got the rear end out and started welding it up.





Now to weld the bag cups, link bars and my uni-frame brackets and I can put her back in. I hope to get this done this week end along with bending the new brake line and getting the brakes hooked back up. Missing the first car show this Sat but hoping not to miss another this summer so I need to get some work done.

Good news is my kids are out of school next week and my wife is leaving for Guatemala to teach leadership skills to the Bishop and some select nuns tomorrow morning. She'll be gone for 2 1/2 weeks and my kids will be at a friends for a whole week so when I get home from work I have nothing to do but get this car done.

Bad news is my AVS 9 box isn't working and after two emails to The Gauge Store I haven't heard back as to what they are going to do for me. I like the lock feature on the nine switch box which would keep an accidental bag deflate going down the road. With my gas tank only 3/4 of an inch off the ground I really don't want to think of what could happen if the rear went down while driving down the highway.

Might have to buy a new one from Air Assist and get the remote so I can raise the car up and down remotely.


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## Simplicity (Jan 15, 2006)

66slabside said:


> Might have to buy a new one from Air Assist and get the remote so I can raise the car up and down remotely.


Build Looks Great. I try to follow as many builds as I can.... Let me know, And I will help you out on the price of the box.


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## stevechaos13 (Apr 17, 2013)

Looks great man. Glad to see you went the EDC route. That's one heavy assed car, and it takes my smaller 66 Galaxie forever to build enough pressure to get the front up with 2 380c Viairs.


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

good luck with the build bro ! looks good ...


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Is that sight guage on that filter glass or plastic? My first filter i had had a dam plastic sight (thought it was glass).Melted a bit an had oil pissing all over my engine bay.An yeah theses compressors do get hot when ya run them to higher psi.

An personally,im putting hydro line from the OUT of my filter to the tank in trunk.Im running dot plastic an dont trust it a bit.


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

It's glass. Paid some money for that one from Kilby, learned from your mistakes! Told ya I've been lurking for a bit. Thinking of hydro line also, just ran the DOT to see how much I'll need, get me going for now and wasn't sure how to measure what I needed without actually running a line. Not like I can cut the hydro and just put an end on it.


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Good deal,yeah i picked my Coilhouse filter up off ebay.Havent had a problem w/ that one.

A little trick ive done before for measuring lines.I have a bunck of chunks of 8 gauge wire layin around for mock up.It will get ya close


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Little update. Hard to get stuff done with work and my wife being out of town. Have to play Mom and Dad all the time, makes garage time hard to find.

Got my upper "cups" made for the rear. This will sit flat against the bottom of the car and the sheet metal will sandwich between the "cup" and another plate in the trunk.



Wanted to give it more of a flat surface to ride on and not just the pipe side walls. Mounts like this:



Instead of this:




Also figured out the best way to mount the valves. Wanted to put the check valves as close to the bag as I could so if a line breaks between the tank and the bag under the car it will still hold pressure. This mounts behind the inner fender so it will be protected from road debris kicked up from the tire. Plus lines will be protected. Considering braided lines from the dump valve to the bag.



That's it for now but the the kids know all I want for Fathers Day is a day to work on the car. Plus Monday AM a family friend is picking the kids up and taking them for the week so I'm a bachelor for the week. Now as long as I don't get stuck working out of town all week I should get a bunch done.


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## NFA Fabrication (May 30, 2012)

Looks great! I love your detail on a lot of the fabrication. Taking your time like this is really going to pay off in the end!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Damn it's been awhile things always get in the way. Spent three weekends rebuilding our rotted front porch before someone fell through, found out Mom has throat cancer so went down to see her for a few days, wife got new boobs so she was down for 1 week. Kids are spending the week at the grandparents lake house with their aunt and cousins and my wife is working in Atlanta. Garage time!!!

Let's back track a bit.

Got the rear in and set up. Everything looks good and goes up and down without binding. Bad news is for all of the studying, designing, assembling, de-assembling and then re-assembling to get every thing in the back as low as it would go the one thing I took for granted is the drive shaft tunnel. on all the forum cars I've seen bagged it seems everyone just cuts the tunnel out from under the back seat portion and gets down low. Well I designed mine to go all the way down till the axle rested on the frame but it can't go down that low due to the driveshaft hitting the tunnel WAY past where I've ever seen anyone cut their tunnel out. So I had to fabricate some quick bump stops to stop the drive shaft from hitting.



Bummer. I think when the front goes down it will help the back go down a bit lower but doubt if it will go all the way down. So for this year it's just going to have to be about 2 inches short of what it's possible to go down. The other option I'm going to explore once I get the front done and see how low it goes down is getting a custom drive shaft made. The one on the car is huge and if I can have one made just one inch smaller diameter I think I can get it all the way down once the front is done. It's still pretty low as is but I want it all.

Anyways, installed the air gauge. Cut up passenger side dash VERY CAREFULLY and installed AVS air gauge. 



Changed it out for the brushed aluminum one as it matched the brushed aluminum gauge plate in the car. Thought black at first since the part of the dash it's mounted in is black but the brushed one looks more "stock."



Took the front end apart last weekend and this week did some measuring. Made a test top and bottom cup and tacked on the plates.



Three inches for the top and 2 1/8 inch for the bottom. Using RE-8's up front since it seemed like there was plenty of room, it's a big ass car and that 462 has got to weigh a ton. Turns out it worked great on the first try. I anticipated the front being way easier than the back and so far it has been. It's a bit close at the top and bottom on the side facing the ball joint so I'm going to re-weld it and set it back about 1/2 inch for better clearance. There's plenty of room towards the back. Bag lays out nice and flat when aired out and moves pretty close to up and down when inflated, which actually at this point just means pumping the jack up and letting the jack down. Tucks in there nice and tight. Not going to get anymore drop out of this, hope it's nice and low!!



That's it for now. Hope to have any easy day at work tomorrow so I can come home and fab the other side, put the tires on and see how low this thing sits on the bump stops. :thumbsup:


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

Awesome work bro...


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## BuThatsaCHRYSLER (Mar 19, 2002)

Cut or remove that bump stop!!!!!!!


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Yeah trim that shit!

An pics of so called boobs!!!!!


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## REV. chuck (Jun 14, 2003)

get rid of that junk ass plastic line


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

baggedout81 said:


> Yeah trim that shit!
> 
> An pics of so called boobs!!!!!





BuThatsaCHRYSLER said:


> Cut or remove that bump stop!!!!!!!


Waiting to see how low it gets before I start cutting stuff off but I agree, with the internal bump stops on the Slams I'll be able to take that one completely off. As far as boobs she just got it done 2 weeks ago so she still has to wear some fancy ass big white granny looking bra for a few more weeks. Funny thing is they just use a Sharpie just like I do on metal to mark were to cut and they don't wash it off so its still visible under the glue they put on after taking out the stitches. When she told me that I told her I could have glued some new boobs on her!! 
Here's a little preview, 34DDD or 36DD depending on what bra she tried on.


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

REV. chuck said:


> get rid of that junk ass plastic line


I'm with you on that. Think I mentioned earlier in the post that I was doing that to figure out how long to make the hydro hoses. I look at that plastic line running under my car and it makes me a bit nervous to think that it's going to be so close to the ground and waiting for a rock or something to take it out. Got a whole bag of metal clamps to hold it in place and once I get it all figured out going down to House Of Hose and get some lines made. Got the three foot stainless flex line made to go from my EDC to my filter under the hood and it was $55, OUCH! But I only want to do this once so I can spend my time riding not repairing.
Thanks for the input, learned a lot from you on these forums.


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## 64 For Life (Mar 19, 2013)

66slabside said:


> Waiting to see how low it gets before I start cutting stuff off but I agree, with the internal bump stops on the Slams I'll be able to take that one completely off. As far as boobs she just got it done 2 weeks ago so she still has to wear some fancy ass big white granny looking bra for a few more weeks. Funny thing is they just use a Sharpie just like I do on metal to mark were to cut and they don't wash it off so its still visible under the glue they put on after taking out the stitches. When she told me that I told her I could have glued some new boobs on her!!
> Here's a little preview, 34DDD or 36DD depending on what bra she tried on.


PG :banghead:


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

pic dont work

An id just run hydro hose for the air line.Dont really need steel


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Shit double post and it is PG sorry. Trust me they're not to pretty looking until they are healed a bit but i'll get a good for you all. Won't even waste time uploading them again till I get an R rated version.


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Well, got the passenger side cups made and trial fitting done. The 1/2 inch offset makes for the perfect fit. Not worried about cutting the bump stop now though, actually might have to make the lower cups a bit taller. As of now the car gets stuck on the jack so I can't go all the way down and the lower arm is about 1 inch away from the bump stop still. It will also collapse to about half its size under the weight of the car meaning the car can still go down at least another 1 1/2 inches and thats just about how far the oil pan is from the ground. Won't know until I get it all done and get air to the bags and see how far down it will actually go. I don't think it will lay rocker due to lack of clearance from oil and trannie pan and also how low the floor pan is to the ground which is going to make it really hard to fit an exhaust system in there.

Here's where it sits right now, stuck on the jack:





It's hard to get a good picture since the damn car is just a few inches shorter than the garage.


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## REV. chuck (Jun 14, 2003)

i like these lincolns you need an edc too.


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

^^^

Ditch the bullet knock offs.They will cause you nothing but a headache down the road


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

REV. chuck said:


> i like these lincolns you need an edc too.


Got the EDC set up and running. After all the positive things I've heard about EDC versus electric compressors didn't even think about electric compressor.



baggedout81 said:


> ^^^
> 
> Ditch the bullet knock offs.They will cause you nothing but a headache down the road


Why is that/ what are my options? Got the rims with tires for $350 off Craigslist. Tires were shot but got me through two summers. Just got new tires about a month ago, haven't even seen one mile of pavement, just a cruise out the garage to turn the car around so I could work on the front end.

Also does anyone know if I buy one rim from some where like OG Wires will they mount the same? Don't have a spare and I want to get a matching one for the trunk that you will see. Basically like this:


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Them style of knock offs are know for getting stuck because the "tool" you use will round the corners of the knock off off.Never understood why they didnt make them so the tool would grab the wall of the kncok off an not hte edges

I've got 2 wing shark fin an use a tool this http://www.layitlow.com/forums/24-wheels-tires/286475-knock-off-tool-remover-dayton-style.html cant beat the price shipped.Tommy good people to deal w/.Just bought some tire dollies from him.Fuckers are beafy,beats backing up 100 times into my garage

An yeah ya can order just 1.But i would call them 1st make sure they have it ready to ship.Or hit up craigslist.Shit if you were closer i'd sell ya 3 of em for cheap!!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

I can definitely see that happening, would have never thought of that. I do put a rag over the knock off before I use the tool, that seems to help but I'll look into options. Thanks for the input.


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## REV. chuck (Jun 14, 2003)

baggedout81 said:


> Them style of knock offs are know for getting stuck because the "tool" you use will round the corners of the knock off off.Never understood why they didnt make them so the tool would grab the wall of the kncok off an not hte edges
> 
> I've got 2 wing shark fin an use a tool this http://www.layitlow.com/forums/24-wheels-tires/286475-knock-off-tool-remover-dayton-style.html cant beat the price shipped.Tommy good people to deal w/.Just bought some tire dollies from him.Fuckers are beafy,beats backing up 100 times into my garage
> 
> An yeah ya can order just 1.But i would call them 1st make sure they have it ready to ship.Or hit up craigslist.Shit if you were closer i'd sell ya 3 of em for cheap!!


tommy is excellent people!!!!!!! and the tool works bad ass


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## NFA Fabrication (May 30, 2012)

REV. chuck said:


> tommy is excellent people!!!!!!! and the tool works bad ass


Couldn't agree more. I am a fabricator, and do this all day long, and for the quality of tool he provides, at the price, it isn't worth me doing myself. I need to get one soon!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Just don't know if I like the look of the spinners but I'll definitely keep this in mind and think about my options As usual all opinions and constructive criticism are appreciated here.

Any input on wether or not another wire wheel from OG Wheels would fit? Are all of the adapters the same from brand to brand? Not sure what brand I have, probably some cheap Chinese knock off.

A little off topic but finished my front porch last weekend after a month of weekends so I made it very clear with the wife (who was okay with it) that I am working on the Lincoln all weekend so hope to see some work done. Should be able to test drive it I'm that close.


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## REV. chuck (Jun 14, 2003)

NFA Fabrication said:


> Couldn't agree more. I am a fabricator, and do this all day long, and for the quality of tool he provides, at the price, it isn't worth me doing myself. I need to get one soon!


id buy another just to deal with tommy again hes that good of a dude.


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Well got the majority of the work done. Still a bunch a little odds and ends like inner fender aprons and such. Only main things left to be drivable are drive shaft tunnel and exhaust. Bummer that the only name I keep hearing as good in my area said they will only do my exhaust on a weekday since its an all day gig with the lack of room on undersides of these Lincoln's. Guess I'll have to find someone else. Still need to do the shocks. Good news is it looks like I got totally lucky and the rear shocks will fit in the stock location just need to figure out the size I need.

Here she is laid as low as she can go right now. Rear will go done more but it will take some major drive shaft tunnel cutting and I just want to drive this damn car the rest of the summer so that's going to have to wait until this winter. Front is resting on exhaust and tranny cross member is closest thing to the ground at about 3/4 - 1 inch with the oil pan a close second.. Bump stops are smashed pretty hard so don't think I'm going to worry about cutting them. If a bag fails I don't want to lose my oil pan on the freeway.



Every time I look at that thing all I can think though is I need to get the rear down more!:facepalm:


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

looks good!!!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

thanks man


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

Sitting nice bro !


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## Drew513Ryder (Feb 2, 2012)

nice looks good


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## nisra (Apr 25, 2013)

66slabside said:


> Well got the majority of the work done. Still a bunch a little odds and ends like inner fender aprons and such. Only main things left to be drivable are drive shaft tunnel and exhaust. Bummer that the only name I keep hearing as good in my area said they will only do my exhaust on a weekday since its an all day gig with the lack of room on undersides of these Lincoln's. Guess I'll have to find someone else. Still need to do the shocks. Good news is it looks like I got totally lucky and the rear shocks will fit in the stock location just need to figure out the size I need.
> 
> Here she is laid as low as she can go right now. Rear will go done more but it will take some major drive shaft tunnel cutting and I just want to drive this damn car the rest of the summer so that's going to have to wait until this winter. Front is resting on exhaust and tranny cross member is closest thing to the ground at about 3/4 - 1 inch with the oil pan a close second.. Bump stops are smashed pretty hard so don't think I'm going to worry about cutting them. If a bag fails I don't want to lose my oil pan on the freeway.
> 
> ...


What part of Washington you in?


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## nyccustomizer (Dec 13, 2005)

Nice work. I love the way you did the 4 link bars. Did you go with shocks? I bagged a 64 earlier in the year. Tubbed and linked for 24's. Bad ass cars when layed out.


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Sorry guys been away a bit. Work always goes nuts when it starts to get cold. People wanting their shit done before the sub-freezing temps move in. Gotta be a way to get an email saying something was posted in my thread right? I'll figure it out.


nisra said:


> What part of Washington you in?


 Spokane for now. House is for sale and moving to Atlanta, GA when it sells. Wife got a killer job and I'm playing Mr. Mom for the most part. Just a couple days work here and there the next couple weeks to help my brother-in-laws out and then I'm done. When we move I'm thinking of finding some auto related thing and just doing my own thing. Won't have to worry about being the bread winner anymore. :thumbsup:



nyccustomizer said:


> Nice work. I love the way you did the 4 link bars. Did you go with shocks? I bagged a 64 earlier in the year. Tubbed and linked for 24's. Bad ass cars when layed out.


 Yep I got some shocks back there in the stock location for now. Without them it was like driving down the street in a trampoline. None on the front and drove it for a few months and it was fine. Car handles way better and rides better then stock.

Anyways it always drove my nuts how the back wasn't down as low as the front and it laid with a slight rake to it so now that I'm off for the most part got to cutting more driveshaft tunnel out. How it was after last surgery, you can see its a bit high in the rear here:



At the shop with the rear bump stops out and my first driveshaft tunnel attempt cut out:





Much happier with this. So now I'm welding the newest tunnel back in, a little higher and a little more cut out length wise:





Only the second time I've welded such thin sheet metal so I blew a few holes but fixing them right up. Tomorrow I'm going to take the drive shaft down to get it shortened about 3/8 - 1/2 inch, it's a bit tight when its all the way laid out. Plus the shaft it a huge diameter in the middle and narrower at the ends so I'm going to see if they can make me one the same size all the way. That'll be about 1/2 inch smaller diameter which will allow me to lay the back out about another 1/2 - 1 inch which should level it out perfect. Right now the fronts on the exhaust stopping it from going down all the way so when I get that done I'll probably be able to go down a bit more. It's already hitting the bump stops so I don't think it'll go that much more.

Since I have the back seat, front seat and rear carpet out I'm going to redo the wiring that runs through the interior. Shorten the control wire for the valve sensors, redo wires for the stereo that got shoved under the carpet by PO, little stuff like that. And then on to the finishing the trunk. I'll keep you guys updated.


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

Awesome work bro !


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## nisra (Apr 25, 2013)

I live in Yakima and need to find someone to do my install now. But nice work bro


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## kadillackid (May 3, 2006)

Awesome post and pics, big thanks for sharing, luv the Lincoln...:thumbsup:


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

nisra said:


> I live in Yakima and need to find someone to do my install now. But nice work bro


 Thanks for the comments. Wish I was closer, I'd help.



kadillackid said:


> Awesome post and pics, big thanks for sharing, luv the Lincoln...:thumbsup:


 I have a friend lives in Auckland. Just came for a two week holiday with his new wife. Maybe we'll meet one day when we go to visit him.


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## lowlinc93 (Aug 2, 2006)

Really loving tis ride! Have you tried it with 14's or any other rims? Just wondering how I would look laid out with smaller rims! These mid 60's Lincoln's are my dream cars!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

lowlinc93 said:


> Really loving tis ride! Have you tried it with 14's or any other rims? Just wondering how I would look laid out with smaller rims! These mid 60's Lincoln's are my dream cars!


No I haven't. First non-daily I've had in 18 years so I don't have anything else laying around. 

Just ordered an AVS 4 channel remote system last night with relays and trunk release solenoid. Going to have remote trunk release obviously but also be able to have remote dump and fill. Can't wait!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Update. It's still in progress so be easy on my skills, plus I'm quickly learning that sheet metal is indeed way harder to weld. Especially upside down, under a car on jack stands, 15 inches off the ground, freezing your ass off in low 30 degree weather, with the shop door open for better light. Enough whining, hope this helps someone one day with ideas.


Here's what I was left with underneath:



Not sure if it shows but used three pieces of sheet metal so I could still keep most of the floor brace that was there for strength. Guess you can see that better from the top side:


Its that original piece that's dividing the two pieces of new metal you see here. Basically those two pieces meet underneath that floor brace;





This is the opposite side but basically ground off undercoating and paint and then welded on two pieces to cover the gaps:








Still a couple more hours of work to put in but that's how I over came that problem. Can't wait to get this part done so I can move onto some fun stuff again, couple hours here couple of hours there. It's nice to have a space in a big shop but a pain to have to leave the house and drive there. Also got my drive shaft shortened about 3/4 inch so it doesn't hit the tranny tail shaft. I'm wondering if it'll go down a little more in the rear but can't finish the underneath with the drive shaft in and I'm tired of taking it in and out so I'll have to wait.


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## nyccustomizer (Dec 13, 2005)

Looking good. Nothing like winter time to spend some quality time under a car with a welder.


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Hard to get a good picture under there at night but here's the end product with two coats of primer, seam sealer and then four coats of SEM rubberized undercoating.





Blasted the trunk apart again and rewired everything properly and neatly. Added the AVS remote system with an extra relay added for the future install of the remote trunk solenoid.




Spend some time the last few days in the interior and put in a new stereo, redid some wiring and shortened up my air gauge sender wires and neatened up the quickie wiring job I did this spring so I could drive it this last summer. Ordered some new shorter rear shocks which will be here tomorrow and then Thurs day hope to get shocks in and new bump stops made and installed so axle doesn't rest right on the frame. Since it's just welded together layers a sheet metal and not a real frame I don't want it bumping on there too bad. If the shocks work I'll post part numbers and brand if someone wants to know.


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## nisra (Apr 25, 2013)

Looking good man. PM me if your ever in the Yakima Tri-Cities area


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

awesome work!!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Thanks guys. More to come, hope to get a video up tomorrow but it snowed about 3 inches today so we'll see.


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## nisra (Apr 25, 2013)

66slabside said:


> Thanks guys. More to come, hope to get a video up tomorrow but it snowed about 3 inches today so we'll see.


In Spocompton?


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Yep. Just when I get my shocks from Summit so I can drive it again it goes and dumps the same day. Typical Spocompton shit!


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## 66slabside (Sep 3, 2011)

Alright, update time. Snow melted and been driving around with new shocks and tunnel re-cut. Simply awesome. Thumbs up every where I go. Quick pic with new stance:



Anyways been waiting to get some work done on the trunk. I'll let the progress pictures do the talking:









And after about four hours of polishing the aluminum lines (still not done) it's waiting to be installed in trunk. Lines are just sitting there, not installed all the way so they might be a bit crooked. Want to take them out during the install so I don't have to worry about bending one.



Just ordered a new air gauge of ebay, all stainless and 2 1/2 inches so it should look cooler. Just need to find a spare tire rim and think I'm going to put a green LED strip in for light to go with the green lighting theme I got going with the green interior. Myabe some new subs cause the old ones I got look raggedy ass in the new trunk.


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## nyccustomizer (Dec 13, 2005)

Looks great!


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

X2. Awesome work bro !


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## the metal (Apr 1, 2013)

What an awesome stance, and the trunk install is looking clean as. Can't wait to bag my hooptie.


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