# 90' brougham fiberglass enlosure for 2 Q15



## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

i need some help here, i just got my 2 15" speaker rings, plywood ,fleece,resin,and mat. I'm thinking of building 2 seperate enclosures in my trunk, my question is how would i measure the airspace in a fiberglass box, and how thick should it be for maximum strength? i will start posting pics as soon as I find my damn cord to the camera


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## purplemonte (Mar 3, 2006)

are you going ported? a lot of people like to use packing peanuts to measure volume in a glass box. ifor those fi 15's make it pretty thick. use mdf wherever you can, and make the glass at least .5-1" thick. you want it to be as sturdy as possible


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by purplemonte_@Jan 16 2007, 09:34 PM~7006378
> *a lot of people like to use packing peanuts to measure volume in a glass box. ifor those fi 15's make it pretty thick. use mdf wherever you can, and make the glass at least .5-1" thick. you want it to be as sturdy as possible
> *


Beat me to it, good jorb... :cheesy: 

Yes I meant " jorb ", maybe someone will get it... LOL


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

what would sound better, ported or sealed. If theres not much of a diff. i'll just go sealed. When i stretch my fleece ishould soak it with resin and then lay my stips of soaked fiberglass mat, right? Any tips would be appreciated. Oh I and planned on facing them sort of angled up and out of the trunk coming from the inside of the quarter panels, can you visualize this? or would it be better to give them a slight angle inward to the back seat


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

http://video.snoopdan.com/teamdailyforum/viewtopic.php?t=14

this is my glass build for my '06 quad cab, maybe you can follow along with it....

but basically, 

1) you make a frame out of wood
2) make your speaker mounting rings out of wood
3) use rods or strips of mdf to position your mounting ring to where you want it
4) stretch your material over the enclosure tightly
5) resin it generously so you have a foundation to work with
6) (a) old school method: lay around 8 layers of matt on your material (not all at the same time of course) (and i say 8 because these are heavy and forceful subs, might need more then that)
(b) new day method: mix resin and cabosil (a resin expander) and generously coat the inside of your enclosure... it will look like a gooey milkshake when you mix it all up.. you need to lay multiple layers

7) use a body filler that has kitty hair (duraglass or something)
8) sand it down smooth (using different grit papers)
9) use a fibered primer or a body filler that does not have kitty hair or fill holes (rage gold xtreme)
10) sand it smooth (using different grit papers)

and your done... 

its not as easy as this but thats the VERY general/vague idea


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

> _Originally posted by fleetwoodpimpin_@Jan 17 2007, 12:19 PM~7011088
> *what would sound better, ported or sealed. If theres not much of a diff. i'll just go sealed. When i stretch my fleece ishould soak it with resin and then lay my stips of soaked fiberglass mat, right? Any tips would be appreciated. Oh I and planned on facing them sort of angled up and out of the trunk coming from the inside of the quarter  panels, can you visualize this? or would it be better to give them a slight angle inward to the back seat
> *



i always say if you can get it done properly PORT IT NO QUESTIONS... however you decide to place the woofers, just try to keep the subs and port firing towards the license plate more then anything else...


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

thanks alot sporty, that pretty much took care of all my questions. I'll start posting pics tomarrow


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## Beeskie (Jul 17, 2006)

lookin forward to the pics

good luck with it all


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## purplemonte (Mar 3, 2006)

good luck man. make sure that when you wrap it you get it as smooth as you can. you wil kick yourself in the ass if you dont cuz youll be sandin for days tryin to smooth out wrinkles


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

yeh man, like i said, its a lot more involved then what i said, so good luck, as long as you take your time and dont rush anything, you will have a good 1st glass build


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

sup everyone, i started the frame work for my box last night it's the first time i've really ever worked with wood. I was wodering if anybody got pics of there of there boxes in the early stages. This seems to be the toughest part, I need to end up with 2-2.6 cubic feet per sub


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

> _Originally posted by fleetwoodpimpin_@Jan 20 2007, 10:36 AM~7038542
> *sup everyone, i started the frame work for my box last night it's the first time i've really ever worked with wood. I was wodering if anybody got pics of there of there boxes in the early stages. This seems to be the toughest part, I need to end up with 2-2.6 cubic feet per sub
> *


this was my first attempt at fiberglassing, to be honest, i wished i would have tried something smaller but i learned ALOT while making this enclosure.

now let me first say, im pretty good with wood working.. also, i was going for a complex speaker box where EVERYTHING would be on it, the amplifier, the crossovers, and the sub, and to top it off, it was a truck wedge..


if you got question about the pics, let me know
































































here is a shot of the amp cover... center was cut out for plexiglass view window, two squares on the sides where cut out for fans, the slot on the right was cut out as a vent for the amp rack... the design was a "pull system", the fans "pulled" in out side air through the vent and pulled it over the amplifier and it blew out the hot air after it did its job...











that was all the frame work, from there i started the glass work with the wrapping, resining, etc, etc

but if you google, for something like "fiberglass speaker box tutorial", or something along those lines, you should find links to places where they do step by step glass work, and you'll be able to see different types of "frame work"


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

got some work done today, i ended up scrapping my first attempt


















do guys think i should glass the bottem or use mdf?


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by fleetwoodpimpin_@Jan 21 2007, 03:35 PM~7045835
> *got some work done today, i ended up scrapping my first
> do guys think i should glass the bottem or use mdf?
> *


You're gonna have to glass it, you will lose too much airspace if you use MDF...


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

definetly glass the bottom, you can see that link i left on how to get your mold for the bottom


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## 1ofaknd (May 31, 2003)

yea, first thing you need to do is make a glass mold of the bottom. then when you have that done, stick your wood pieces back in, and glass them to the bottom mold.


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

i had bought BONDO fiberglass resin, i just tossed that trash and im headed to the paint store for tape and a gallon of resin. i'll post pics of the mold later tonight


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

well it took 2 rolls of tape and 45min to tape out the trunk, and i used 16sq yards of matt and still dont think it's thick enough. what do i need to do to a add more fiberglass after it dries, sand the whole thing?


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## 1ofaknd (May 31, 2003)

you only need a few layers now. enough to make it stiff enough to hold it's shape. then pop it out and work on it outside the car


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## themerc (May 14, 2006)

Keep posting pics, I would like to see this process.


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 1ofaknd_@Jan 22 2007, 09:53 PM~7058149
> *you only need a few layers now. enough to make it stiff enough to hold it's shape. then pop it out and work on it outside the car
> *


agree 100%


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

i woke up first thing this morning and pulled ther mold out, i didnt think this big MFer was gunna come out in one peice but as soon as i got a big enough section loose to put my hands under the whole thang came right out












heres the car its going in


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## 64 CRAWLING (Nov 26, 2001)

you take the top off, what them 2s


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

nah they 4's , i just read in a post that 1 sub ported is loader than 2 sealed, so how could i port for those speakers? iknow theres got to be more to it than just cutting a hole out
here are the specs for the subs

Q15 

Fs: 25.9 Hz | 24.9 Hz 
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil 
Qms: 5.64 | 5.72 
Qes: .54 | .54 
Qts: .49 | .49 
Mms: 257g | 279g 
Cms: 0.15mm/N | 0.15mm/N 
Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2 
Vas: 135 l | 135 l 
Spl: 88.2dB 1W/1m | 87.7dB 1W/1m 
Bl: 10.4 N/A | 15.1 N/A 
Xmax: 27mm 
Rms: 1000W 
Sealed box: 2-2.6 cuft 
*PORTED BOX* : 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz 
Sub OD: 15.625” 
Cut ID: 14.125” 
Mounting depth: 8.500” 
Displacement: 0.19cuft


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

basically, you have a vent/port that allows air to escape from the inside of the enclosure... the volume of the port (port area and length) and net volume of the enclosure is what determines what the enclosure is tuned to.

if you search through this forum you should find a build thread, or google for "slot vent enclosure tutorial" or soomething along those lines


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## hearse (Oct 20, 2005)

what about using aero (sp) ports in a fiberglass box to save the hassel of making ports?


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## draarong2004 (Feb 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by hearseballa_@Mar 15 2007, 01:38 AM~7482011
> *what about using aero (sp) ports in a fiberglass box to save the hassel of making ports?
> *


you'll still have to cut those to the desired length, and given he has the space on the front of the box for an aero or 2 as well, usually a 4" aero port can flare out to 6" i believe, if not more....


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

damn it, I can't see the pics.


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## silver64 (Dec 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jan 16 2007, 08:15 PM~7006722
> *Beat me to it, good jorb...  :cheesy:
> 
> Yes I meant " jorb ", maybe someone will get it... LOL
> *


jeeeeeeeeeeooooooooooorrrrrrrbbbbbbbbb


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by silver64_@Mar 15 2007, 01:53 PM~7484322
> *jeeeeeeeeeeooooooooooorrrrrrrbbbbbbbbb
> *


Coach Z's got money... But not much! :cheesy:


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## Sporty (Jan 26, 2006)

> _Originally posted by draarong2004_@Mar 15 2007, 03:10 AM~7482081
> *you'll still have to cut those to the desired length, and given he has the space on the front of the box for an aero or 2 as well, usually a 4" aero port can flare out to 6" i believe, if not more....
> *


try close to 8"



my 3" ports flared out to 6"


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## draarong2004 (Feb 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Mar 18 2007, 10:29 AM~7500512
> *try close to 8"
> my 3" ports flared out to 6"
> *


oh geeze, now i learned something else...lol

and i almost thought i could go flared in my truck.....


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## cd blazin (Feb 21, 2005)

a small trick that willsave you time. Once you put one your tape you can draw out the shape that you want your enclosure to look like with a sharpy,when you lay your glass the sharpy will transfer ink and you will have a line to cut on. :biggrin:


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