# Bad ass product!!!



## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

Now I am not often a cheerleader for many things. My short list of "must have" products are Adex dumps, ProHopper cylinders, Acccurate solenoids, and now, SRS Protector valves.

I recently installed one of these on my wifes Cutlass, and there is NO way I would ever have a juiced car without one. The things are simple as hell and relatively easy to put on. I only wish I had these things from the beginning, since I cant even begin the money I have wasted on blown seals, broken pumpheads, bent cylinders, etc etc.

Here is a pic of me installing one this weekend: (its the chrome block between the dumps)










Simply, it is a mechanical adjustable pressure regulator for your pumps, and installs in the pressure port of your pump, and has an output line that connects to the return on your tank.

Lets say shit happens, and you get a solenoid that welds shut or a switch sticks. Normally the pressure created by a runaway pump can break gears, blow pressure seals, blow cylinder seals, burst lines, swell dumps, etc etc.. all sorts of nasty shit. With one of these little valves installed, all that happens is it detects the increase in pressure and simply diverts the fluid back into the tank!

The thing even works great for every day use. You can literally hold the switch and once the car lifts and pressure begins to spike, the safety opens up and lets the pump harmlessly cycle the fluid. It effectively makes your switches newbie proof, which is exactly what I wanted for my wifes car. Hell, you could even give your switchbox to a 5 year old and let him go crazy, he wont be able to break your shit!

Granted these are not designed for hoppers hitting big inches who rely on sick amounts of pressure, but for everyday cruisers it makes the car incredibly more reliable, safer, and far easier on your system not to mention reduces the amount of time you have to spend replacing seals and broken shit.

They are fully adjustable for any size car of number of pumps. You can adjust the "relief" pressure for any number of pumps or voltages.

Here is a finished shot of the valve installed on her cutlass, along with a set of accumulators:










The guy who makes these is named George, and his company is SRS Hydraulic Systems. He runs a small shop in Lansing, MI and is a really good guy. He sells em for $130 each, and they come fully machined and chromed, its a relatively simple bolt-on install. 

You can reach George at:

(517) 394 3895
or
(517) 749 0739

He may be able to hook you up with some discounted prices for LIL members, so be sure to tell him you saw them here.


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## BUD (May 30, 2002)

and now back to our regularly schedualed program... :roflmao:

Naw seriously they seem like something good for newbies...if I could only convince my wife to get a juiced car I'd get em for her...


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## dough916 (Apr 10, 2003)

my first set up had cast iron blocks with those built in. pretty cool.

i would get them- if i could only convince my wife.........


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## impalalow (Dec 10, 2002)

allways safety first if you are a beganir it's a must have !


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## insYder (May 21, 2002)

> _Originally posted by dough916_@Aug 11 2003, 03:58 PM
> *my first set up had cast iron blocks with those built in. pretty cool.
> *


 I was gonna say the same thing...

The old cast iron blocks had a relief valve built in on the side.
We used to take the cap off, turn the adjustment screw all the way in
so that the pump would give a little more pressure...

Damn...old school...


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

Pressure relief valve. Been in industrial applications for many years. The old school cast iron blocks had a relief built into them. I brought one of these similar valves home from work once .They do work great. I'm suprised it took so long for them to emerge in the lowrider market.


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by insYder+Aug 12 2003, 04:00 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (insYder @ Aug 12 2003, 04:00 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--dough916_@Aug 11 2003, 03:58 PM
> *my first set up had cast iron blocks with those built in. pretty cool.
> *


I was gonna say the same thing...

The old cast iron blocks had a relief valve built in on the side.
We used to take the cap off, turn the adjustment screw all the way in
so that the pump would give a little more pressure...

Damn...old school... [/b][/quote]
We used to remove the relief and use that port as the pressure . Then plug the top ports.


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

Wanted to point out that these IMO arent just for newbies. Anyone ever had a switchbox accidentally flip over on the seat? Anyone ever had a solenoid or switch stick? Anyone ever had a friend in their car hit a switch out of curiosity? Anyone ever accidentally bumped a switch?

Also think about every time you lock your car up, or do a power 3 wheel. Ya got to tap tap tap that switch, because you dont want to overlock. And there is always that last tap where you feel the tension created as your chains tighten or cylinder bottoms out. Every time that happens you put a pressure spike to all of your seals and lines. With one of these, you could hit and hold the switch if you wanted, with no fear of breaking anything.

It is a godsend for newbies, but even for a veteran on the switch it's a very reassuring safety device.


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## TRUDAWG (Feb 7, 2002)

yea I plan on gettin a set as well, they look good in chrome


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## UCYI3WL (Dec 13, 2001)

never heard of them before...Seems like a good come up for daily drivers especially


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## BOUNCIN89MERC2LOW97LHS (Apr 9, 2003)

Now you see one of the reasons why I'm still using these pumps I bought in '91. Damn, things are bulletproof.


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## HoppinS10 (Sep 18, 2002)

Is this the same thing just not chrome?


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## air280 (Oct 20, 2001)

...adjust it till you have enough pressure to do what you want, but no more.
be aware that setting it too low so it blows regularly will heat your oil super quick.
there are loads of PRV configurations around but this one makes for a very neat install, especially as done by caddi Bob


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## Cali4Lyf (Jul 7, 2002)

Homeboy already got his feelings hurt on this site a long time ago trying to sell those things for that much.

I forgot who? But some member of L.I.L. busted him out and gave the part number and supplier for the exact same part for around half the price.

I'm pretty sure he's just reselling a part thats already available? Kind of like Showtime with the NAPA balljoints.

Some longtimers should remember this product also :uh:


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## TRUDAWG (Feb 7, 2002)

> _Originally posted by HoppinS10_@Aug 12 2003, 11:55 PM
> *Is this the same thing just not chrome?
> 
> 
> ...


 yup thats similar....where did you find it?
and it doesn't look like it has enough ports


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Cali4Lyf_@Aug 13 2003, 03:20 AM
> *Homeboy already got his feelings hurt on this site a long time ago trying to sell those things for that much.
> 
> I forgot who? But some member of L.I.L. busted him out and gave the part number and supplier for the exact same part for around half the price.
> ...


That looks pretty similar, but like all things you cant go off of looks alone. A fake adel looks alot like an Adex, but the similarities end there. Install em both and hit some switches, and the differences in quality becomes apparently quickly.

To argue that "because I saw something on the internet that looked the same, so you got to be trying to fuck people over!" is downright ignorant. Imagine if someone came onto LIL and started talking shit about Andy at Adex for selling his dumps for $475.

"Dude, you are full of shit! CCE sells the same shit for $200! I even saw em on Ebay for $100 each!" He would get bitchslapped 5 ways from Sunday. Why? Because many of us have either owned, or saw Andy's products first hand and know why they cost more. Same thing with these valves. Noone should talk smack until they have had one in their own hand, or actually taken some apart to see the kind of money SSR spends in chroming and custom machining to make this valvle work as it does.

Myself, I have bought em and installed em, and I like em. I think at $130 ea the price isnt bad, and considering I am sure that anyone who called em up could probably get them for $100 or less (like I did) because they are trying to get the name out there that they are in fact a pretty good deal.


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Bob_@Aug 13 2003, 10:05 AM
> *Imagine if someone came onto LIL and started talking shit about Andy at Adex for selling his dumps for $475.
> 
> "Dude, you are full of shit! CCE sells the same shit for $200! I even saw em on Ebay for $100 each!"*


 THAT HAPPENED ON HERE BEFORE, SOME IGNORANT ASSHOLE SAID THAT EARLIER THIS YEAR.

BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT DO I KNOW, I WAS DUBBED THE ADEX CHEERLEADER. BUT ANDY IS A FRIEND, I STAND UP FOR A PRODUCT THAT GOOD, AND ALWAYS WILL.


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## Cali4Lyf (Jul 7, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Bob_@Aug 13 2003, 07:05 AM
> *:*


*
That looks pretty similar, but like all things you cant go off of looks alone. A fake adel looks alot like an Adex, but the similarities end there. Install em both and hit some switches, and the differences in quality becomes apparently quickly.

To argue that "because I saw something on the internet that looked the same, so you got to be trying to fuck people over!" is downright ignorant. Imagine if someone came onto LIL and started talking shit about Andy at Adex for selling his dumps for $475.

"Dude, you are full of shit! CCE sells the same shit for $200! I even saw em on Ebay for $100 each!" He would get bitchslapped 5 ways from Sunday. Why? Because many of us have either owned, or saw Andy's products first hand and know why they cost more. Same thing with these valves. Noone should talk smack until they have had one in their own hand, or actually taken some apart to see the kind of money SSR spends in chroming and custom machining to make this valvle work as it does.

Myself, I have bought em and installed em, and I like em. I think at $130 ea the price isnt bad, and considering I am sure that anyone who called em up could probably get them for $100 or less (like I did) because they are trying to get the name out there that they are in fact a pretty good deal.*[/quote]
Hey Bob,

I'm really glad you have found a component for your system that has benfited you. This was not intended to be a "dis" to SRS. I was just putting it out there that "someone else" has tried to sell them on here before, and when he was "called out" in a sense, he was never heard of again. Not that arguing with someone on this site would of made any difference anyhow  

I just wish the member who knew exactly what that part is, was still around to shed some light? The ones that he found to be similiar looked like yours and not like some military surplus like the one above.

Later,
Keep Ridin


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## HoppinS10 (Sep 18, 2002)

> _Originally posted by trudawg+Aug 13 2003, 05:54 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (trudawg @ Aug 13 2003, 05:54 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--HoppinS10_@Aug 12 2003, 11:55 PM
> *Is this the same thing just not chrome?
> 
> 
> ...


yup thats similar....where did you find it?
and it doesn't look like it has enough ports[/b][/quote]
I found it on grainger and it is like $40 or something like that. But like other people are saying, there are other products out there that you would be able to get for cheeper but then again you would have to get the product and then go from there. Like the one in the pic, I dont think it has enough outlets but you could get it to work with fittings. So after you messed around trying to get all the fittings to get it to work that price for the CHROME one isnt too bad. 



Last edited by HoppinS10 at Aug 13 2003, 02:47 PM


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## ur not low89 (Aug 13, 2001)

i remember these things just dont remember who it was trying to sell them at first 

i always thought they were a good idea


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## andrestone (May 23, 2002)

Where can you get that type of product on the internet. :biggrin:


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by andrestone_@Aug 13 2003, 06:39 PM
> *Where can you get that type of product on the internet. :biggrin:*


 His name is George, of SRS Hydraulics:

You can reach George at:

(517) 394 3895
or
(517) 749 0739

Be sure to tell him you saw em on LIL and say you want a discount :biggrin:


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

someone in the UK scene posted a link to this thread, I've gotta laugh :biggrin: here in the UK we've only ever used these..... they come in the old cast iron pumpheads and the more recent alloy heads AS STANDARD, next you guys will work out fluid displacement for smoothing the ride without loosing hydro pressure, no w that you've all found accumulators.

LOL..

i just think its funny that you guys with all your experience seem to miss some of the basic mods.

not having a pop at you though, just feel its kinda funny we look to you guys for inspiration and direction, if we knew you weren't using them already we could have told you 6 years ago..... :biggrin:


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## BOUNCIN89MERC2LOW97LHS (Apr 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Aug 14 2003, 04:50 AM
> *someone in the UK scene posted a link to this thread, I've gotta laugh :biggrin: here in the UK we've only ever used these..... they come in the old cast iron pumpheads and the more recent alloy heads AS STANDARD, next you guys will work out fluid displacement for smoothing the ride without loosing hydro pressure, no w that you've all found accumulators.
> 
> LOL..
> ...


 That's a true statement. Working in the piping industry, I've found that there are quite a few things dealing with fluid power and air power that people into juice (and now air) just miss out on. That's why I keep telling people to do the research before they put juice on their cars. But everyone want to stick to the "same equation" therefore progress is slowww.
But as long as we have the "avant garde" like BigDan around to go against the grain and put air on '64s and knuckleheads like me charging batteries with my alternator, we'll at least have SOME progression.


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## air280 (Oct 20, 2001)

> *someone in the UK scene posted a link to this thread, *


someone OUTSIDE it actually [ http://www.lo-rdz.co.uk/cgi-bin/iB3/ikonbo...t=0;&#entry8252 ]




> *here in the UK we've only ever used these...*


?



> * if we knew you weren't using them already we could have told you 6 years ago*


6 years ago some of "them" still would have been using them.........and taking out the springs to disable them...........

....but i agree, as a product PRV's have a good place in some systems
 



Last edited by air280 at Aug 14 2003, 09:13 PM


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## JAYSIN_901_RIDAZ (Jul 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BUD_@Aug 11 2003, 03:03 PM
> *and now back to our regularly schedualed program... :roflmao:
> 
> Naw seriously they seem like something good for newbies...if I could only convince my wife to get a juiced car I'd get em for her...*


 bud, you been out running with marines or what? your sig has USMC all over it! whassup homie?


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by air280_@Aug 14 2003, 07:11 AM
> *
> 
> 
> ...


 ok so your kit may not have had them in the early days but Ray's kit has always had them from the begining, i know this because i bought the second ever kit he produced and we've been close friends ever since. 

:uh:


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## air280 (Oct 20, 2001)

no......my kits did have them in the early days when i was using industrial stuff, but hasnt since i've used CCE and now Pro-Hopper


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## 84caddy (Nov 17, 2002)

the old fenners have the pressure relief built in too...and you can adjust the pressure. had em working to the back for over 6 years with no rebuild - people laugh when they see em, but fuck em - bomb proof and maintenance free - one less thing to worry about :biggrin:


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## BUD (May 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by jaycaddyno3weel+Aug 14 2003, 05:20 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (jaycaddyno3weel @ Aug 14 2003, 05:20 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--BUD_@Aug 11 2003, 03:03 PM
> *and now back to our regularly schedualed program... :roflmao:
> 
> Naw seriously they seem like something good for newbies...if I could only convince my wife to get a juiced car I'd get em for her...*


bud, you been out running with marines or what? your sig has USMC all over it! whassup homie?[/b][/quote]
:roflmao: naw..that's from the movie "Full Metal Jacket" I love that damn movie


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## BOUNCIN89MERC2LOW97LHS (Apr 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 84caddy_@Aug 15 2003, 10:51 AM
> *the old fenners have the pressure relief built in too...and you can adjust the pressure. had em working to the back for over 6 years with no rebuild - people laugh when they see em, but fuck em - bomb proof and maintenance free - one less thing to worry about :biggrin:*


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 

My old Fenners have been rolling for over 250,000 miles now since '91. I've replaced one (1) motor. Shits are bulletproof!!!!!!!!



:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Aug 14 2003, 10:50 AM
> *someone in the UK scene posted a link to this thread, I've gotta laugh :biggrin: here in the UK we've only ever used these..... they come in the old cast iron pumpheads and the more recent alloy heads AS STANDARD, next you guys will work out fluid displacement for smoothing the ride without loosing hydro pressure, no w that you've all found accumulators.
> 
> LOL..
> ...


 do you know how to smooth the ride without losing pressure????


i wanna know!!!!


that's it i'm gonna put my porky's pumps in my storm now :biggrin:


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

TTT


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT+Aug 18 2003, 07:48 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (SWITCHCRAFT @ Aug 18 2003, 07:48 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--Unity_Jon_@Aug 14 2003, 10:50 AM
> *someone in the UK scene posted a link to this thread, I've gotta laugh :biggrin: here in the UK we've only ever used these..... they come in the old cast iron pumpheads and the more recent alloy heads AS STANDARD, next you guys will work out fluid displacement for smoothing the ride without loosing hydro pressure, no w that you've all found accumulators.
> 
> LOL..
> ...


do you know how to smooth the ride without losing pressure????


i wanna know!!!!


that's it i'm gonna put my porky's pumps in my storm now :biggrin:[/b][/quote]
COME ON YOU UK GUYS!!!! :angry: 

show me how smart you are and answer my question :biggrin:


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

Not to start an argument but the guy that suppossedly busted me out a long while back when he said he could get these valves out of the granger catalog was asked and I quote "tell me what page" and the page was never given. Also in reference to the valve pictured several times in this post,If im not mistaken that valve would be ported at 1/2" try reducing that down and putting that on your pump. I have a lot of PRVs laying around the shop I even have the one in the picture. When I started with the whole PRV thing I looked on all the websites and couldnt find one that I could use so I just designed my own. Figured that maybe others would be interested. If theyre not for you Im happy just trying to give anyone that wants it the option. 
Thanks George SRS Designer and manufacturer
of the "PROTECTOR" valve


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## HydroCutlass86 (Mar 20, 2002)

showtime sells them too


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

showtime buys them from me.I am part manufactuer of this valve. :wave: :wave: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
George SRS


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## $Bigg Money$ (Sep 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Bob_@Aug 12 2003, 05:35 AM
> *Wanted to point out that these IMO arent just for newbies. Anyone ever had a switchbox accidentally flip over on the seat? Anyone ever had a solenoid or switch stick? Anyone ever had a friend in their car hit a switch out of curiosity? Anyone ever accidentally bumped a switch?
> 
> Also think about every time you lock your car up, or do a power 3 wheel. Ya got to tap tap tap that switch, because you dont want to overlock. And there is always that last tap where you feel the tension created as your chains tighten or cylinder bottoms out. Every time that happens you put a pressure spike to all of your seals and lines. With one of these, you could hit and hold the switch if you wanted, with no fear of breaking anything.
> ...


 let me ask when u hit the power three wheel is it gone just keeping running though the valve and not have enough pressure to really give u that big 3wheel i like the idea just wondering if its gonna kill your quickness :uh:


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## catboy (Jul 4, 2003)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Sep 13 2003, 10:24 AM
> *
> COME ON YOU UK GUYS!!!! :angry:
> 
> ...


 I doubt anyones gonna tell you guys how to do it, but it can be done, and it works well...  

the uk scene has had to support itself since its conception with little input or help from the US, particularly in the early days. I doubt any of us, particularly the older members who gave birth to the UK low scene are gonna turn around and tell the US all their secrets  

As someone said earlier in the thread, all this comes from industrial mobile or stationary hydraulics... ...fcukin' hell everyones raving about boosted gear pumps, piston pumps, etc; hardly high tech or new... ...have a look around, strip a backhoe, search the net... ...whats next, pilot operation? proportional valves? variable piston pumps?...

b


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

I WAS THINKING ? ISN'T THE WHOLE IDEA OF HYDRUALICS..PRESSURE!!!!!!!!!!AT LEAST IN THE
LOWRIDER END OF IT... GET IT UP,AND DO IT FAST,
SHIT'' MAKE IT HOP''!! U KNOW YOUR STUFF ABOUT
JUICE(HYDRO'S)..IF YOU DON'T WANNA HOP, GO 
AIR, AND THATS ON ANOTHER PAGE..ON 90% OF 
THE TOPICS, IT'S ALL ABOUT ,TAKING IT TO THE LIMIT..
LETS SEE.........A CONTROLLED EXSPOSION!
AND THE TERM PISTON PUMP, WELL ..IT'S NOT EXPLAINED
RIGHT?? PISTON ACCUMULATED(LOWRIDER TERMINOLOGY)
A PISTON PUMP WOULD SUCK ...GOOD FOR A FARM TRACTOR
NOT A LOLO... WE WANT OUR SHIT TO BREAK,CARRING IT ON THE EDGE...WHO'D TOUGHT A 12 VOLT MOTOR COULD HANDLE 120+
VOLTAGE,IT DOES ....BUT NOT FOR LONG OR A 2.8 GPM PUMP
MOVING 13+GPM @20,000PSI.... AGAIN, DO THE MATH!!!!!!!!!!


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## air280 (Oct 20, 2001)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT+Sep 13 2003, 11:24 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (SWITCHCRAFT @ Sep 13 2003, 11:24 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
> 
> 
> 
> ...


COME ON YOU UK GUYS!!!! :angry: 

show me how smart you are and answer my question :biggrin:[/b][/quote]
i dont follow this now............... :uh: 

PRV's/fluid displacment/accumulators have been around for 20/30 years in US and UK. Their application in Lowrider hydraulics exists in both.........
I have had to developed stuff to suit specific applications/conditions over here but I have also picked up a lot of info from US [specially here]

what is it that we are not telling each other


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

i was just trying to get a rise out of you uk guys it isn't really a secret i was just messing around......... :biggrin: 



at least i don't think it would be a secret :0


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Sep 23 2003, 11:37 AM
> *I WAS THINKING ? ISN'T THE WHOLE IDEA OF HYDRUALICS..PRESSURE!!!!!!!!!!AT LEAST IN THE
> LOWRIDER END OF IT... GET IT UP,AND DO IT FAST,
> SHIT'' MAKE IT HOP''!! U KNOW YOUR STUFF ABOUT
> ...


 i like the name of your company man..........

but i would ditch the "magic balls"..........


and get some power "magic balls" :biggrin:


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## air280 (Oct 20, 2001)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Sep 25 2003, 11:30 AM
> *i was just trying to get a rise out of you uk guys it isn't really a secret i was just messing around......... :biggrin:
> 
> 
> ...


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT+Sep 24 2003, 10:33 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (SWITCHCRAFT @ Sep 24 2003, 10:33 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--BlackMagicHydraulics_@Sep 23 2003, 11:37 AM
> *I WAS THINKING ?  ISN'T THE WHOLE IDEA OF HYDRUALICS..PRESSURE!!!!!!!!!!AT LEAST IN THE
> LOWRIDER END OF IT... GET IT UP,AND DO IT FAST,
> SHIT'' MAKE IT HOP''!! U KNOW YOUR STUFF ABOUT
> ...


i like the name of your company man..........

but i would ditch the "magic balls"..........


and get some power "magic balls" :biggrin:[/b][/quote]
we also sell magic dust!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Sep 23 2003, 04:37 AM
> *I WAS THINKING ? ISN'T THE WHOLE IDEA OF HYDRUALICS..PRESSURE!!!!!!!!!!AT LEAST IN THE
> LOWRIDER END OF IT... GET IT UP,AND DO IT FAST,
> SHIT'' MAKE IT HOP''!! U KNOW YOUR STUFF ABOUT
> ...


 I would of responded to this immediately but my computer crashed and I had to get a new one. I wasnt aware of the new and upcoming trend of people such as myself buying an old car or truck (even new or newer autos) taking it completely apart spending the next 2,3 years and anywhere from$1 to $20,000 or more fixing it up making it just right and then maxing out the pressure of the all chrome pumps I bought for looks just to take it out and beat the crap out of it . Sorry thats not me. I am by no means an expert in industrial hydraulics which would be the reason I (as well as others) didnt know about PRVs. Now that 24 of the 25 cars that I maintain that all have hydros have "PROTECTOR" valves on them I spend a lot less time answering the calls sying that my car is messed up again. One more thing for some one to tell me that I should put bags on my truck because I dont want to trash it with fat boy pumps and 12 batts WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!! you want to flip your car great dont tell me I need to do the same. George SRS


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## DowN Lo Customs (May 24, 2002)

SORRY GEORGE....DIDN'T MEAN TO AFFEND U......MY POINT WAS ....FOR YEARS ,WE HAVE BEEN TRYING TO MAKE MORE
PRESSURE... THIS PRESSURE RETURN VALVE,IS A GOOD INSURANCE
POLICY AND WOULD BE GOOD FOR BEGINNERS...OR THE EVERYDAY
DRIVER.....MY REPLY WAS TO CATBOY(FROM THE U.K) AND NOT 
TO YOUR PRV'S,BUT I SEE WHERE YOU WERE HIGHJACKED ON YOUR
TOPIC.......PEACE 



Last edited by DowN Lo Customs at Sep 27 2003, 11:13 AM


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

I appreciate the apology. We are all in the same game here. just real quick the bags over oil. Ive been working on the switches here for 8 years now and personally I enjoy it. I by no means pay my bills doing it, back to the subject A nice oil setup will always look alot better than an air tank with a bunch of valves sticking out of it. Oil is where I started and oil is where ill stay. Go easy man. 
Thanks George SRS :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by DowN Lo Customs_@Sep 27 2003, 09:07 AM
> *SORRY GEORGE....DIDN'T MEAN TO AFFEND U......MY POINT WAS ....FOR YEARS ,WE HAVE BEEN TRYING TO MAKE MORE
> PRESSURE... THIS PRESSURE RETURN VALVE,IS A GOOD INSURANCE
> POLICY AND WOULD BE GOOD FOR BEGINNERS...OR THE EVERYDAY
> ...


 Here is a bit of info that I'm sure George will appreciate. The external releif valves are designed to bleed off pressure spikes. For example .The old cast iron blocks. The relief in those were not designed that way. Even if you ran a super duty motor and alot of batteries. The same thing would alway happen. You would get a slight hesitation before the car would lift. This is because the relief would bleed a little of your initial lifting pressure. The external reliefs dont do this. They stay closed untill the pressure has reached the max setting. This means that this is not just for rookies. The car will perform better runnig this. Pressure is no good when your fighting it. Bleed of the pressure spike instead


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

Serious Hydros I do appreciate the info there are a few of those old blocks running around here but i never have to work on them except for the usual bad solenoid or worn out switch because they do have the old ball and spring reliefs built in. The Protector valves are not a ball and spring so the valve wont open until it reaches the pressure that the owner set it at. I put gauges on the first car I did after i got the valves back from the machinist and set them at 6000 psi this was enough to lift the car at the same speed all the way up it would pressurize from about 2500psi to 6000 psi and the valve would open. The first car was an 84 Regal with 4 pumps running at 72vlts. It only took about 2000 psi to lift the car quick as before the extra 4000 psi was just presurizing the sytem when the car was all the way up. The car never really hoppped that well about 12" and it still did that and it stood 3 just the same just had to lift it differently. Thanks again George SRS


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## Keepit-real (Jun 24, 2002)

damn i wouldn't mind getting those just to be on the safe side......shit i have found myself reaching in the back for something and with my heel i'll accidently hit my switch......you just never know better to be safe then sorry


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by ghost211_@Sep 28 2003, 03:48 AM
> *Serious Hydros I do appreciate the info there are a few of those old blocks running around here but i never have to work on them except for the usual bad solenoid or worn out switch because they do have the old ball and spring reliefs built in. The Protector valves are not a ball and spring so the valve wont open until it reaches the pressure that the owner set it at. I put gauges on the first car I did after i got the valves back from the machinist and set them at 6000 psi this was enough to lift the car at the same speed all the way up it would pressurize from about 2500psi to 6000 psi and the valve would open. The first car was an 84 Regal with 4 pumps running at 72vlts. It only took about 2000 psi to lift the car quick as before the extra 4000 psi was just presurizing the sytem when the car was all the way up. The car never really hoppped that well about 12" and it still did that and it stood 3 just the same just had to lift it differently. Thanks again George SRS*


 when he hopped did he notice a delay in the lift???


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

No these valves are placed before the check valves and the car responded exaclty as it did before installing the valves. It got 12" before the install and 12" after. We were trying everything to make sure we didnt have any performance problems with the valves. We got bored one day and decided to do around the world in the middle of the street These would be a good add on to setup thats not a competion hopper or dancer they should expect to tear up their shit. George SRS Its not for everybody but for people like me a great money and time saver.


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## showandgo (May 16, 2002)

i like the product. george drove down and gave me a demonstration. it is perfect for a beginner you can never hold the switch to long. it will save a newbie alot of money. as far as hopping i dont like that idea with this product


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

Whats up Jimmy? Thanks for the endorsement kinda. From Guys like you with a good name that means alot. Appreciate it . Goerge


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## showandgo (May 16, 2002)

gotta love a product that does help out the industry even though alot of people say this and that. the fact is the product works great and it does look good added to any setup. i recommend it and george you know i will help out if i can


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

Thanks . You know Ive got your back too . Were all in the same game here. GS


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

Well, when I redo the caddy this winter I will be adding SRS valves to all 4 of my pumps, rears as well as fronts... and my car is a hopper. Granted, I am putting ball valves in front of em to disable them when I hop, but my car spends maybe a few days every summer hopping at contests, and the rest of the summer it cruises the street. They are cheap insurance in my book.

Luckily I havent had many problems with solenoids since I redid my setup, but I like the peace of mind to know if I do have a noid or switch stick, or someone accidentally hits the wrong switch, that I wont have to worry about overlocked equipment, broken pumpheads or chains, or even blown lines.


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

the whole point of lowrider related hydraulics since the 60's was to get the max pressure you can out of a pump. case closed.


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by ogcaddy_@Sep 29 2003, 03:54 PM
> *the whole point of lowrider related hydraulics since the 60's was to get the max pressure you can out of a pump. case closed.*


Many people have worked to make lowrider hydraulics:

Cheaper
More reliable
Better performing
Safer

and about a dozen other things, besides "max pressure"

Fact is not every lowrider is on a quest to put their ride on the bumper (most arent in fact, the vast majority of juiced cars out there are cruisers, not competition hoppers), and pressure alone isnt everything. Having a clean ride that they dont have to wrench on every single day, that they can cruise and enjoy, is the most important thing.


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## vwlownslo (Feb 14, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Bob+Sep 29 2003, 04:31 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Cadillac Bob @ Sep 29 2003, 04:31 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--ogcaddy_@Sep 29 2003, 03:54 PM
> *the whole point of lowrider related hydraulics since the 60's was to get the max pressure you can out of a pump. case closed.*


Many people have worked to make lowrider hydraulics:

Cheaper
More reliable
Better performing
Safer

and about a dozen other things, besides "max pressure"

Fact is not every lowrider is on a quest to put their ride on the bumper (most arent in fact, the vast majority of juiced cars out there are cruisers, not competition hoppers), and pressure alone isnt everything. Having a clean ride that they dont have to wrench on every single day, that they can cruise and enjoy, is the most important thing.[/b][/quote]
It's funny, but I thought the whole point of hydraulic suspension was to have the ability to alter the ride hieght of your vehicle at the flick of a switch...

If maximum pressure was the sole intent of the lowrider since the early days, I'd figure someone would have already re-invented the wheel, (so to speak) because, with the exception of a few variations, pumps haven't changed all that much.... at least not enough to write home about, if you know what I mean... This is all, of course, my own opinion.

I would have to agree with you on this one Bob, as I'd rather have daily street cruiser, that is easier to maintain and reliable... I like hoppers, but being on bumper isn't my main goal. 



Last edited by vwlownslo at Sep 29 2003, 05:30 PM


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## $Bigg Money$ (Sep 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Bob_@Sep 29 2003, 12:55 PM
> *Well, when I redo the caddy this winter I will be adding SRS valves to all 4 of my pumps, rears as well as fronts... and my car is a hopper. Granted, I am putting ball valves in front of em to disable them when I hop, but my car spends maybe a few days every summer hopping at contests, and the rest of the summer it cruises the street. They are cheap insurance in my book.
> 
> Luckily I havent had many problems with solenoids since I redid my setup, but I like the peace of mind to know if I do have a noid or switch stick, or someone accidentally hits the wrong switch, that I wont have to worry about overlocked equipment, broken pumpheads or chains, or even blown lines.*


 how do the ball valves work with them not quite sure what exactly what they are??


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by ogcaddy_@Sep 29 2003, 02:54 PM
> *the whole point of lowrider related hydraulics since the 60's was to get the max pressure you can out of a pump. case closed.*


 I am a little confused about what you wrote as a response, and the small paragraph that is added to all your posts. You dont need max pressure to build a nice lowrider. As Bob said most of us dont even use the full pressure of the pumps. After about 2500 or a little more your car is up as far as its gonna go the rest is used to 1 standing three 2 Hop since I and many others have no interest in either what should we do with the pressure we dont need? I wonder if Showtime will reimburse me for it since I dont use it. I should call Mark and ask him he is a nice guy. :biggrin: Just messing with you. Its not all about pressure. George SRS


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by ogcaddy_@Sep 29 2003, 05:54 PM
> *the whole point of lowrider related hydraulics since the 60's was to get the max pressure you can out of a pump. case closed.*


 Sorry OG. But the quest you speak of is the quest for inches. The quest of higher pressure is alot of times a waste of time. The suspension does most of the work in a hopper or dancer. The right combo of pressure, hose sizes, suspension mods, cylinders, coils, voltage, ect.... is what produces inches. I like prssure reliefs. I've messed with them in the past. The industrial reliefs are made(like I said B4) to bleed of the damaging pressure that spikes at the end of a lift. Basicly the overlock. When you hopp or dance it is easy to hold the switch a little too long. This is what causes failures. The reliefs are adjusted to bleed of the pressure that your weakest components cannot handle. For example. If you runn crappy dumps that will blow seals at 6000psi. Then you set the relief to open at 5500psi


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

well said oh and back in the 60's........they were chippin' hardcore.....


they wouldn't even think of running 60 volts.........


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## CMILE$ (Apr 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Bob_@Aug 11 2003, 03:57 PM
> *Now I am not often a cheerleader for many things. My short list of "must have" products are Adex dumps, ProHopper cylinders, Acccurate solenoids, and now, SRS Protector valves.
> 
> I recently installed one of these on my wifes Cutlass, and there is NO way I would ever have a juiced car without one. The things are simple as hell and relatively easy to put on. I only wish I had these things from the beginning, since I cant even begin the money I have wasted on blown seals, broken pumpheads, bent cylinders, etc etc.
> ...


how many protector valves would you need for a 2 pump hydro setup? probably a stupid question but im a newbie to hydros and was just wondering?


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## CMILE$ (Apr 25, 2004)

ttt


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## air280 (Oct 20, 2001)

one per pump


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## PLANETGETLOW (Sep 22, 2003)

Any sale prices on these.........how did I miss this topic :uh:


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

do the SRS Protector valves have a different name? would they be called something else?


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## Momo64 (Jan 23, 2005)




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## NastyRedz (Dec 5, 2004)

some older pumps had relief valves, mine do


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## hydroandy (Jan 14, 2004)

check your theory again boys... its the flow or rather velocity of the oil that makes your ride bounce higher. Pressure isnt relative unless the mass you are trying to move loads more restriction on your pump than it can handle.
I machined a show time block to take a relief valve and posted pics of it on this site about a year ago and got some replys of 'why would you do that?'....


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

oldschool pumps had relief valved on the side , i would cut a thick nail and shove that nail between the spring and tighten the fu*k out of that screw. 
i only have one ? is there any restriction in running the fluid through this valve? 
i wouldn't run the fluid throught the dumps either. i'de T them off and let the fluid go direct from the pump,through the check valve and straight to the cylinders.


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## NastyRedz (Dec 5, 2004)

> _Originally posted by hydroandy_@Mar 20 2005, 10:41 AM
> *check your theory again boys... its the flow or rather velocity of the oil that makes your ride bounce higher. Pressure isnt relative unless the mass you are trying to move loads more restriction on your pump than it can handle.
> I machined a show time block to take a relief valve and posted pics of it on this site about a year ago and got some replys of 'why would you do that?'....
> [snapback]2876439[/snapback]​*


he right a relief valve is only there to stop the fluid flow from locking up and breaking, not a restrictor valve but a diverter valve :uh:


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

and they now have revised prices, ordered mine this morning, good looking out george , its really appreciated


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Mar 22 2005, 04:10 AM
> *and they now have revised prices, ordered mine this morning, good looking out george , its really appreciated
> [snapback]2886806[/snapback]​*



My pleasure ill get them sent out asap


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## Yeah-Low (Oct 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BUD_@Aug 11 2003, 05:03 PM
> *if I could only convince my wife to get a juiced car I'd get em for her...
> [snapback]965836[/snapback]​*



Amen, Brother. My wife doesn't want Hydros either. She said she would like a simple lowered 40's Chevy though. I was like "!!!!!! No juice?" So I talked her into one with bags... 
:uh:

Great product. Sounds like a really good idea. I have heard of similar items, but never seen a picture of one.

Yeah. Low.


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Hoss805_@Mar 20 2005, 04:11 PM
> *oldschool pumps had relief valved on the side , i would cut a thick nail and shove that nail between the spring and tighten the fu*k out of that screw.
> i only have one ? is there any restriction in running the fluid through this valve?
> i wouldn't run the fluid throught the dumps either. i'de T them off and let the fluid go direct from the pump,through the check valve and straight to the cylinders.
> [snapback]2877479[/snapback]​*



The answer is no. The oil only runs threough the valve if you reach the pressure you have set it to, other wise it works EXACTLY as the tee you removed to install the valve. Look at the pics that Bob has posted on here and you will see what I mean.


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## PLANETGETLOW (Sep 22, 2003)

How much????????????????????????????


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## CMILE$ (Apr 25, 2004)

there is a post in classifieds they are $57 a piece


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## ghost211 (Sep 2, 2003)

TTT


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## Cali~DwnUnder (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by HoppinS10_@Aug 13 2003, 02:55 PM
> *Is this the same thing just not chrome?
> 
> 
> ...


does anyone have a diagram or pics of how this specific valve is plumbed.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

looks the same, check the pressure rate of the spring inside, to weak and you'll just keep recycling the fluid into the tank.

got mine in, but havent finished the plumbing yet, really pleased with them though


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## SixFourClownin (Aug 15, 2004)

Hmmmm, rethinking my set-up situation now......... I had juice on a few of my cars and decided to leave the bags on my 64 because of over pressuring the sytem and causing leaks and broken shit, this here might end up changing my mind........


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## kaos283 (Nov 9, 2002)

anyone as a manufacturer part number of this great product. Thanks


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## LIL2LO (Jun 7, 2002)

> _Originally posted by kaos283_@Jul 21 2005, 06:42 PM
> *anyone as a manufacturer part number of this great product. Thanks
> [snapback]3451680[/snapback]​*


Not sure if this is still his number but here is the contact info I have for him. Call 517-749-0739 ask for George or PM http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showuser=8878


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

i thought of these every day.I would imaging though,to have it set low enough to save your pumps heads from overlock distaster would be too close to the pressure created by extreme hoppers, so it would be nice for the daily driver, especially the back of my silverado, it has no coil to push on when the cylinder locks up and hoses only 2 ft long, thats alot of pressure if i hold the switch a milisecond too long!

Sounds like a good idea, i hated rebuild marzochis in the front every coupe weeks.


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## Big Baller 82cutty (Feb 1, 2004)

I already tried to call George and left voice mails and nothing sent him here some PMs and nothing I want some of this things so bad anyone got any info


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Jul 21 2005, 01:00 PM
> *looks the same, check the pressure rate of the spring inside, to weak and you'll just keep recycling the fluid into the tank.
> 
> got mine in, but havent finished the plumbing yet, really pleased with them though
> ...




what's the pressure rate on your's say????


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

to be honest i dont know. I told George what i had, what i wanted, and went with it, becuase they're adjustable over quite a broad range i didn't give it a second thought. 
Some of us have been using these since the 90's, its a bit like second nature, just this time they're not plumbed directly into a port in the block.


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## GPC CADDY (Aug 2, 2006)

Please let me know how much pm me!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

:0 old bump


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## undr8ed (May 25, 2003)

Back from the depths :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by undr8ed_@Feb 24 2008, 09:45 PM~10020429
> *Back from the depths  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:
> *


 :biggrin:


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## Scrilla (Apr 8, 2006)

:0


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## chevyman (Jan 22, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Bob_@Aug 11 2003, 03:57 PM~965819
> *Now I am not often a cheerleader for many things. My short list of "must have" products are Adex dumps, ProHopper cylinders, Acccurate solenoids, and now, SRS Protector valves.
> 
> I recently installed one of these on my wifes Cutlass, and there is NO way I would ever have a juiced car without one. The things are simple as hell and relatively easy to put on. I only wish I had these things from the beginning, since I cant even begin the money I have wasted on blown seals, broken pumpheads, bent cylinders, etc etc.
> ...


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

Im in the process of developing a connection for new accumulators with help from a hydraulic engineer 
He was one of the head engineers that helped develop a suspension for Toyota. He's into lowriders and is convinced that he can deliver me vehicle/weight specific accumulators that will drive just as good as a stock shock absorber.

Sound like the same thing that you have in your trunk? Its not , Its a cylinder not a bladder type 
It will be shipped directly to you with your specific vehicle & custom weight.

I can also get you the same exact accumulators the big hydro guys have

The companies that sell them now start at a basic number and you deal with it...

Anyone interested email me and i will contact you directly when more information is available.

Also some other interesting products

Accumulator charging setups available

Custom Oil Coolers 

2" check valves 

Gauges/Digital 

Custom Faucet Shut Offs

Slow Downs 

[email protected]


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## JROCK (Feb 27, 2007)

:thumbsup: Sounds good. I'll be hitting up.


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## mr clark (Feb 11, 2008)

Please tell me more about standing three wheel? how do you lock up different ?If they are adjustable can you set them to a super high presure to stay closed if you want to turn them off sometimes or do you need those redirect ball valves? does anyone know at what pressure cylinder and pump seals usally blow?


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## chacho44 (Sep 12, 2006)

> _Originally posted by clairfbeeIII_@Jul 8 2008, 11:50 AM~11038041
> *Im in the process of developing a connection for new accumulators with help from a hydraulic engineer
> He was one of the head engineers that helped develop a suspension for Toyota. He's into lowriders and is convinced that he can deliver me vehicle/weight specific accumulators that will drive just as good as a stock shock absorber.
> 
> ...


I got one of them faucets for sale too PM me if you want another one


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## ShowKase (Feb 24, 2007)

any links on this part ?


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## CANNONBALL Z (Jun 28, 2008)

you can go to a parker website

WWW.HFEWEB.COM :thumbsup:


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## NastyRedz (Dec 5, 2004)

The one that I'm using on my build.

goes from 1,500 psi to 3,000 3/4 npt and 30 gpm

I'm not sending it off for crome LOL


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## NastyRedz (Dec 5, 2004)

1 question, Why the hell did everyone stop useing them in the first place?

I guess people who make the blocks just got sick of machining that extra part .


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

> _Originally posted by NastyRedz_@Mar 14 2010, 10:01 AM~16885789
> *1 question,  Why the hell did everyone stop useing them in the first place?
> 
> I guess people who make the blocks just got sick of machining that extra part .
> *


the whole evolution of using hydraulics on cars was IMPROVEMENT and more pressure.


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by TATTOO-76_@Mar 14 2010, 10:27 AM~16886157
> *the whole evolution of using hydraulics on cars was IMPROVEMENT and more pressure.
> *


which means a very small margin of consumers who care nothing about the speed of their cars lift would be the only target market for somthing like this, and those setups are typically less prone to deadheading issues. I might use one in the rear,but how often do you have overlocking problems in the rear?


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## acehigh132 (Apr 16, 2010)

where the hell do i get some it seens like i need a new motor every month


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