# can you hook up an amp to a factory radio?



## concrete (Mar 11, 2002)

how do you do it? I have a buddy that wants to keep his stock radio but wants to put an amp on it..


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

Run the remote wire from the amp to an ACC power in the fuse box, or to a custom switch up front somewhere...

Is he going to use a line level converter for his amp signal from the factory radio?


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## concrete (Mar 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 8 2005, 07:01 PM
> *Run the remote wire from the amp to an ACC power in the fuse box, or to a custom switch up front somewhere...
> 
> Is he going to use a line level converter for his amp signal from the factory radio?
> [snapback]2825457[/snapback]​*




ohhhh.....good idea.


line level converter? instead of the audio cable?


I guess he would have to split one of the outputs...


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## Joker808 (May 29, 2002)

need to get a wiring adapter for the factory system..walmart sells it for about 8 dollars


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## concrete (Mar 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by JokerManN808_@Mar 8 2005, 07:13 PM
> *need to get a wiring adapter for the factory system..walmart sells it for about 8 dollars
> [snapback]2825493[/snapback]​*



do they have the remote wire on them?


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by JokerManN808_@Mar 8 2005, 08:13 PM
> *need to get a wiring adapter for the factory system..walmart sells it for about 8 dollars
> [snapback]2825493[/snapback]​*


What in the hell are you talking about?


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## ohioswanga (Jan 25, 2005)

id go with the wiring adapter, its cheap and easy. This allows you to use your factory speaker leads as rca cables and then u just run the remote from the fuse box to the amp


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## draarong2004 (Feb 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ohioswanga_@Mar 9 2005, 01:38 AM
> *id go with the wiring adapter, its cheap and easy. This allows you to use your factory speaker leads as rca cables and then u just run the remote from the fuse box to the amp
> [snapback]2827217[/snapback]​*


that only works if the amp has speaker level inputs.


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## Crazy Cutty (Oct 24, 2002)

a lot easier to take out the factory radio. :buttkick: :biggrin: 

i did that once and ill never do it again. sounded horrible. wont get the full effect of the lows.


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## draarong2004 (Feb 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Crazy Cutty_@Mar 9 2005, 03:12 AM
> *a lot easier to take out the factory radio. :buttkick:  :biggrin:
> 
> i did that once and ill never do it again. sounded horrible. wont get the full effect of the lows.
> [snapback]2827352[/snapback]​*


it all depends on how good your stock system is, but 90% of the time your never gonna get the "best" sound out of your subs.


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## ibanender (Jan 31, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Crazy Cutty_@Mar 9 2005, 04:12 AM
> *a lot easier to take out the factory radio. :buttkick:  :biggrin:
> 
> i did that once and ill never do it again. sounded horrible. wont get the full effect of the lows.
> [snapback]2827352[/snapback]​*


Then you had something not good. I've installed tons of low level adapters and never had a problem with frequency response. You may have taken the signal off a high pass line off a factory amp.


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## Custom Jim (Jul 6, 2004)

If you want to do it without any cutting of the factory wires get two harness adaptors (Metra 70-???? series and the 71-???? series or the Aamp Of America BHA???? series and the BHO???? series) to where now you have one plug that will plug into the factory radio and the other into the factory loom. Chances are in the adaptors there will be a remote turn-on wire even though on the factory plug there may not be one present. You then add a 5 conductor wire (Aamp Of America speedwire BHSW51) to run to the rear of the vehicle and then wire in a line level adaptor at the amplifier (unless it has hi-level inputs). Four of the wires are the speaker wires and the fifth is used as the turn-on wire (Aamp also sells a 9 conductor for 4 speakers with a turn-on). I would wire into the front outputs of the radio if adding a sub amp and speaker(s). By using the front outputs and a sub amp you can fade full front or partially to the front for a better front stage and not affect the volume of the sub like how you would if it was wired to the rear outputs of the radio.
Also with using the two harness adaptors you can add inline passive filters to the factory location speakers to filter out the low bass. 
With the line level adaptor back at the amplifier there is less chance of noise getting induced into the RCA cables as you are running a hotter signal back to the amp and then knocking it down.
Jim


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## ibanender (Jan 31, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Custom Jim_@Mar 9 2005, 10:09 AM
> *If you want to do it without any cutting of the factory wires get two harness adaptors (Metra 70-???? series and the 71-???? series or the Aamp Of America BHA???? series and the BHO???? series) to where now you have one plug that will plug into the factory radio and the other into the factory loom. Chances are in the adaptors there will be a remote turn-on wire even though on the factory plug there may not be one present. You then add a 5 conductor wire (Aamp Of America speedwire BHSW51) to run to the rear of the vehicle and then wire in a line level adaptor at the amplifier (unless it has hi-level inputs). Four of the wires are the speaker wires and the fifth is used as the turn-on wire (Aamp also sells a 9 conductor for 4 speakers with a turn-on). I would wire into the front outputs of the radio if adding a sub amp and speaker(s). By using the front outputs and a sub amp you can fade full front or partially to the front for a better front stage and not affect the volume of the sub like how you would if it was wired to the rear outputs of the radio.
> Also with using the two harness adaptors you can add inline passive filters to the factory location speakers to filter out the low bass.
> With the line level adaptor back at the amplifier there is less chance of noise getting induced into the RCA cables as you are running a hotter signal back to the amp and then knocking it down.
> ...


It would appear you know something.... I'll warn you now, you'll be hated shortly :biggrin: Good post BTW.


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ibanender_@Mar 9 2005, 12:26 PM
> *It would appear you know something.... I'll warn you now, you'll be hated shortly  :biggrin:  Good post BTW.
> [snapback]2828095[/snapback]​*


Oh yeah, but at least you and I will have someone else on our team... :biggrin: 
Welcome aboard Jim...


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## ohioswanga (Jan 25, 2005)

LoL


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## draarong2004 (Feb 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ibanender_@Mar 9 2005, 07:36 AM
> *Then you had something not good.  I've installed tons of low level adapters and never had a problem with frequency response.  You may have taken the signal off a high pass line off a factory amp.
> [snapback]2827572[/snapback]​*


prolly what he ended up doing, now that i think about it, because the first time we tried to wire up the mustang's system, couldn't get any lows, come to find out, we were in the tweeter wires, so we took it to a shop that had the tools to take off the panel, and got r done. don't expect a sq system from a do up like this, and don't expect all the audio wires from your hu to carry a low level output.


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## Custom Jim (Jul 6, 2004)

Thanks for the kind words. 

Years ago when I got into car audio the stuff was pretty basic and with the better and more integrated systems in the vehicles today you would be crazy not to use parts designed to work or use parts that can be assembled together to have a reliable installation. I cringe every time I pull out a radio that someone has hacked into the wiring when it wasn't necessary (but they always respond that they saved a few bucks/WOW/whoopee)

I don't pretend to know everything but I think everyone can learn.

The only reason I replied about those adaptors is that I was involved years ago with Delco and Rockford Fosgate and they wanted a system designed to where a mechanic at a local dealership could remove the factory radio, unplug it, plug in those adaptors I talked about, run some cabling to an amp location, plug the end into the amplifier and then shoot a wire up to the battery for an amplifier's main power. They did not want a mechanic cutting or splicing into wires in the factory loom and if there ever was a problem you could unplug what was done and plug it back together the way it was originally to help with troubleshooting. I'm a firm believer in using those adaptors and while not all shops will stock them it's worth the wait to order them and use them. 

Oh, and thank Rico with the Regal from Saint Louis for turning me on to this site. He too is learning the right and wrong ways of doing things (I just have to find out a way to get him some subs in the car along with amplifier's and that should be fun considering all of his batteries and the hydraulics he already has in the trunk).

Jim


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## rook (Feb 29, 2004)

WOW! Thats like a whole lot of work for nothing! Just add a Line out converter grab a switched power under the dash, fuse it and call it a day! If he thinks it sounds like shit tell him to buy a real deck! :biggrin:


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by rook_@Mar 9 2005, 09:59 PM
> *WOW! Thats like a whole lot of work for nothing! Just add a Line out converter grab a switched power under the dash, fuse it and call it a day! If he thinks it sounds like shit tell him to buy a real deck!  :biggrin:
> [snapback]2830505[/snapback]​*


Thanks Captain Obvious! :uh:


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## draarong2004 (Feb 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 9 2005, 09:49 PM
> *Thanks Captain Obvious!  :uh:
> [snapback]2830649[/snapback]​*


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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