# WELDING HELP!!!????????



## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

i recently started taking sum welding classes.....we doing stick welding rite.now........BUT I WANTED TO KNOW WAT KIND OF WELDING IS GONNA BE USED MOSTLY FOR LOWRIDERS.TIG MIG OR STICK??..???.TO DO FRAME WORK REINFORCE AN ALL THAT.....AN WAT KIND OF WELDERS R GOOD FOR THIS??ONCE I GET THE HANG OF THIS WELDING I WANNA START.DOING MY OWN WORK ON MY LOW LOW........


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## BrownAzt3ka (May 4, 2008)

I use a stick (arc) welder cuz its what i have available... I have used Wire (mig) welders and those are most common for building battery racks and reinforcing frames.... 

However if you want a super smooth battery rack i would recommend using a tig welder with would bring out some cleaner welds...


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

:thumbsup: cool thanks :thumbsup:


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## milian70 (Dec 17, 2009)

Mig. My teacher showd me that the tensile strangth on mig is more flexable arc is a harder weld and it will snap on the renforcements!


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## Mr.GM (Jul 28, 2012)

Mig is what your gonna use to wrap frames and tig would be better for trailing arms and smaller things like that but you can do it all with mig. A good machine would be a millermatic 300 or 350.


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## 1942aerosedan (Jan 12, 2005)

A mig welder is what you want , I have a Lincoln 255 and in my opinion it's a perfect size a 300 or 350 is a little overkill as your not going to be welding anything thicker than 1/2 " plate. Look for a used unit at your local welding store as most of them get trade ins or repos that someone didn't finish paying for.


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

:thumbsup: ok good info!!!!!"!....any more tips for starters like me for welding?????????


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## NYC68droptop (Aug 30, 2004)

Mr.lincoln said:


> :thumbsup: ok good info!!!!!"!....any more tips for starters like me for welding?????????


make sure the metal your welding is CLEAN


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## WUTITDU (Aug 23, 2006)

milian70 said:


> Mig. My teacher showd me that the tensile strangth on mig is more flexable arc is a harder weld and it will snap on the renforcements!


Completley untrue , depends what kind of rod you use. Most common would 7018 , 6018 is brittle but when you cap with 7018 the 2 metal combined make it very strong weld when done correctly.


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

HARD WIRE MIG 035 OR 030 LINCOLN L56 WIRE 75/25 GAS MIX CLEANEST SHIT YOU GONNA GET FOR AUTOMOTIVE...GET YOU A MIG MACHINE LIKE A MILLER OR LINCOLN 250 OR BIGGER


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## tnimpala (Jan 3, 2006)

i use arc because i can get a deeper burn in my weld lines


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

You can use any process but, MIG is the most economical when it comes to frames. Tig is nice but, 95% of the people on this site don't pay enough attention to prep/fitment though. Proper prep/fitment is critical no matter the process but, MIG is a little more forgiving. Tig also takes a lot longer and is more tedious. Don't get me wrong, tig is great for trailing arms and even battery racks but, not practical. Stick is kinda like running flux core...it works fine especially if welding outdoors but, I prefer solid wire and gas for various reasons like weld appearance and less post weld cleaning.

As far as what welder to buy I would stick to one of the major brand 220 volts like Miller or Lincoln but, you can pick up other nice welders for a little cheaper like Hobart or Esab. Whatever you do stay away from the little 110v welders especially if your trying to wrap a frame or do suspension work. Make sure the welder you choose is atleast 185 amps. How much you spend really depends on the amount of production you're trying to put out. Example, a Miller 185 or 211 is plenty for lowrider applications but has a low duty cycle. Personally, I'd pick up a Miller mm212 or mm252. Anything bigger is bragging rights.

On a side note, PLEASE do not attempt to fabricate anything critical like suspension components until you have ample knowledge about welding/fabricating and can produce sound welds 100% of the time. There are too many people out there that think just because they can stick two pieces of metal together they are welders. Too many lives depend on it.


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

ESAB'S ARE THE SHIT I WELDED WITH ONE FOR 5 YEARS AT WORK...


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## ron1973kim (Jul 29, 2012)

good topic. I am new to welding an just bought a Hobart 125 easy handler mig an I tried to weld power balls on but I failed from inexperience. so I paid a pro, to weld em on but,I have done my exhaust an Lil body work an can do smaller things with it. but suspension parts I'll leave to the pros . I'm wanting, sum drop mounts welded on rite now. practic, practic is the key


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## D13CHARRO (Aug 18, 2011)

WUTITDU said:


> Completley untrue , depends what kind of rod you use. Most common would 7018 , 6018 is brittle but when you cap with 7018 the 2 metal combined make it very strong weld when done correctly.


True story


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

ron1973kim said:


> good topic. I am new to welding an just bought a Hobart 125 easy handler mig an I tried to weld power balls on but I failed from inexperience. so I paid a pro, to weld em on but,I have done my exhaust an Lil body work an can do smaller things with it. but suspension parts I'll leave to the pros . I'm wanting, sum drop mounts welded on rite now. practic, practic is the key


If you can get the car to Indianapolis I can do it for you. If not, you can throw a couple stitches on them to prevent the mounts from swinging out IF you run a bolt through the factory mount as well.


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

NICEEE ALOTA GOOD INFO KEEP IT COMIN :thumbsup: an thanks gente


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## down79 (Oct 9, 2007)

:thumbsup: BOXED MY FRAME WITH MY LINCOLN ARC


WUTITDU said:


> Completley untrue , depends what kind of rod you use. Most common would 7018 , 6018 is brittle but when you cap with 7018 the 2 metal combined make it very strong weld when done correctly.


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

:boink:


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## milian70 (Dec 17, 2009)

WUTITDU said:


> Completley untrue , depends what kind of rod you use. Most common would 7018 , 6018 is brittle but when you cap with 7018 the 2 metal combined make it very strong weld when done correctly.


Thanks for correcting me.. Always better to hear other input. Thankr


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## ron1973kim (Jul 29, 2012)

S10lifted said:


> If you can get the car to Indianapolis I can do it for you. If not, you can throw a couple stitches on them to prevent the mounts from swinging out IF you run a bolt through the factory mount as well.


aw man thxs bro that's very nice to offer.u guys in Indy do it big I see allot of hydraulic car out that way .more than in Gary.I think there's one b other running hydros in my area.an that's where I org. bought my car in Indy.but that's really cool to offer bro. I might have a Guy that can help me closer but u never knw.if I need to l def give u a call .thxs again for that offer.an that's good idea to bolt an stitch with my welder just to hold er in place. good looking out for a fellow lowrider!


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

Stick welding (MMA) is actually very strong, provided you kno what you are doing, and it is as good if not better than MIG for jobs like wrapping a frame and other thick material applications. Also cause weldin sheet metal with an mma stick is hard as fuck even for a pro, as it tends to burn through due to the high heat it produces.
The real ''problem'' with stick is cleanin the bead from the material left on top (sorry dunno the term in english), even thou there are rods that dont leave any ''waste''.
Stick welds are also a lot easier to grind compared to MIG as they are softer. Softer doesnt mean weaker thou.

THis said, i use MIG, lol, as it is a lot more user friendly. I use solud wire too, with 75/25 Ar,CO2 mix. You can pull the ''stack o'dimes'' look if you really care like with TIG, you can push or pull the bead, you can weld overhead easier than with a stick, althou still difficult, and with a digital machine you can avoid a lot of the temp guesswork which is nice.
Mine is a digi 180. The thicker ive done was probably 1cm, done with a root paasage and one on top, waved like mad 
180 is a good machine for frames and such and body work, i never felt the need for a bigger one, but who knows,maybe i will. Mine also has a spool gun plug, which i have yet to try thou.
Btw, welding is the most fun work for me, second only, or on par, with plumbing hydros.


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## SUENOS DIVINOS (Sep 23, 2008)

*Arc (stick) welding *is the best for thick metals. It gives a deep penetration as it melts the material to be welded. The problem with arc welding is that you have to control your speed, watch your puddle, control the distance between your rod and material all at the same time. *If you can perfect *arc welding you will have no problem with mig welding. Once perfected you can lay down the cleanest, flat, deep welds.
When done right the weld will look like a flat (shouldnt crown) roll of dimes with little to no weld splatter. And the slag (the waste skin that forms on top of weld) should fall of with a very
light scrape. If your really good the slag will fall off on its own as your welding. 

*Mig welding *is the most practical, and plenty strong for all lowriding needs. (As long as the person welding is skilled enough) When used with gas, it eliminates a lot of the weld splatter. 
It is the most forgiving of the 3 weld types. It is easy to strike an arc and will continue to weld with a long arc (distance the electricity is arcing across from the wire to the material).
Once you set the speed and voltage on the machine, you only have to watch your speed of push or pull and control you puddle. (molten metal formed while wire, metal, combine from the electricity creating the arc)

*Tig welding *is a clean weld but not very practical for long welds. It is time consuming and takes some time to perfect. It takes the most coordination between both hands. However for thin materials and* visually exposed and unaltered welds *it works very well. 

Most important check the limitations of all welders, thickness of wire, rod types, thickness of material to be welded, and the finish of your welds before you do anything.


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## WUTITDU (Aug 23, 2006)

Depends the person welding I have built a handful of items from my garage with a hobart 140 






1/2" gap filled


















did the work bench and the lowers ontop of the bench






very important to stop and restart correctly. I wouldnt do a whole frame with a 140 , but for the smaller items it does just fine,


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

DONE WITH A HOMEDEPOT LINCOLN 180


















DONE WITH A MILLER MILLERMATIC 210


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## SUENOS DIVINOS (Sep 23, 2008)

TRUNKWORKS said:


> DONE WITH A HOMEDEPOT LINCOLN 180
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those welds look very nice.:thumbsup: Appearance accounts for a big part of strong welds. You didnt correctly weld, if the finished product looks sloppy. It may hold for some time or even forever but if it looks wrong then its because you did something wrong. A perfect weld with the wrong welder will be stronger than a bad weld with the correct welder.


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

SUENOS DIVINOS said:


> Those welds look very nice.:thumbsup: Appearance accounts for a big part of strong welds. You didnt correctly weld, if the finished product looks sloppy. It may hold for some time or even forever but if it looks wrong then its because you did something wrong. A perfect weld with the wrong welder will be stronger than a bad weld with the correct welder.


COULDN'T HAVE SAID IT BETTER MYSELF...


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

SUENOS DIVINOS said:


> Those welds look very nice.:thumbsup: Appearance accounts for a big part of strong welds. You didnt correctly weld, if the finished product looks sloppy. It may hold for some time or even forever but if it looks wrong then its because you did something wrong. A perfect weld with the wrong welder will be stronger than a bad weld with the correct welder.




OH AND THANKS


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

THERE'S ALOT MORE TO WELDING THAN THE MACHINE...WELD SETTINGS IS PART BUT ALSO THE SPEED AT WHICH YOU MOVE DISTANCE FROM WELD SURFACE ANGLE OF THE STINGER/NOZZEL PUSH PULL... JUST GET PRACTICE MATERIAL AND EXPERIMENT ANY ONE CAN WELD IT JUST TAKES PRACTICE AND A LITTLE BIT OF GUIDANCE...


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

TRUNKWORKS said:


> THERE'S ALOT MORE TO WELDING THAN THE MACHINE...WELD SETTINGS IS PART BUT ALSO THE SPEED AT WHICH YOU MOVE DISTANCE FROM WELD SURFACE ANGLE OF THE STINGER/NOZZEL PUSH PULL... JUST GET PRACTICE MATERIAL AND EXPERIMENT ANY ONE CAN WELD IT JUST TAKES PRACTICE AND A LITTLE BIT OF GUIDANCE...


you do some nice work homie!!!


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

TRUNKWORKS said:


> DONE WITH A HOMEDEPOT LINCOLN 180
> 
> 
> 
> ...



PRETTY :thumbsup:


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## doc-lowrider (Oct 2, 2010)

Mr.lincoln said:


> i recently started taking sum welding classes.....we doing stick welding rite.now........BUT I WANTED TO KNOW WAT KIND OF WELDING IS GONNA BE USED MOSTLY FOR LOWRIDERS.TIG MIG OR STICK??..???.TO DO FRAME WORK REINFORCE AN ALL THAT.....AN WAT KIND OF WELDERS R GOOD FOR THIS??ONCE I GET THE HANG OF THIS WELDING I WANNA START.DOING MY OWN WORK ON MY LOW LOW........


 you want to use a mig all the way. Mig works the best.


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

Hoss805 said:


> you do some nice work homie!!!


THANKS HOMIE


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

Thumbs up for Trunkworks, neat work.
I like the happy medium between looks n strenght. Thats xactley where i wanna get. 
Ive seen plenty welds were they cared so much about the looks that probably strenght wasnt there at all.


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

TRUNKWORKS said:


> ESAB'S ARE THE SHIT I WELDED WITH ONE FOR 5 YEARS AT WORK...


I have an ESAB Migmaster 203 and it's bad ass. Has a spot timer too.


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

i have a spot timer too, but i found it hella anmoying. I guess its just a matter of gettin used to it.


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

dogbonekustoms said:


> Thumbs up for Trunkworks, neat work.
> I like the happy medium between looks n strenght. Thats xactley where i wanna get.
> Ive seen plenty welds were they cared so much about the looks that probably strenght wasnt there at all.


THANKS BRO I TAKE ALOT OF PRIDE IN MY WORK...:thumbsup:


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

NOBODY IVE EVER WORKED WITH LIKES THE ESABS... IVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH THEM, IVE RAN DUAL SHIELD FLUX AND HARD WIRE MIG WITH THEM AND LIKE THEM AS MUCH AS MILLERS/LINCOLNS...LIKE I SAID GETTING THE RIGHT WIRE GAS COMBO AND HAVE AS CLEAN OF A WORK SURFACE AS POSSIBLE AND YOUR WELDS WILL COME OUT PERFECT...THE MORE YOU DO TO PREP YOUR WELD AREA THE CLEANER IT WILL COME OUT...


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## Flaco712 (Oct 10, 2010)

So is it better to do spot welding or continues welds I have been doing the spot welding which I guess would be like the purpose of the spot timers I find its easier to mold then the continues welds are nd I've had better luck with welding thin to thick together


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## singlepumphopper (Nov 17, 2011)

hobart 187 is what i use and lincoln 225 stick for frame work


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## singlepumphopper (Nov 17, 2011)




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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

loving all the info  !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## 19devil04 (Oct 12, 2011)




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## Biscaynedenny (Oct 15, 2012)

Millermatic 212 autoset.weld anything,a arms all that 1600.00& new


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

Flaco712 said:


> So is it better to do spot welding or continues welds I have been doing the spot welding which I guess would be like the purpose of the spot timers I find its easier to mold then the continues welds are nd I've had better luck with welding thin to thick together


Spot welds are usually done to just tack pieces togheter to then run a full bead on them.
Sometimes you are forced to do some stitchin on sheetmetal to avoid heat warping it. Stitchin means a spot over spot over spot.....
The so called ''stack of dime'' look on thick material is done with a continous bead, or at least it should. Stitchin on thick steel reduces strenght cause youre addin cold spots over cold spots, for lack of a proper term. So really, avoid stitchin anything but sheet metal. If you wanna learn to lay beads as good as Trunkworks you need practice, and readin the puddle is key. I find waving a good exercise to get there, but i guess this is personal pref.


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## Flaco712 (Oct 10, 2010)

I would say I don't know the proper terms but for me to get the stacked dime look I have my welder running hot and I make the ''spot'' and then stop recenter myself and start again so it would be like a split second before I would hit it again and I compaired that method to a continues weld and the penitartion looks the same


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO SPOT WELD...YOU CAN SPOT WELD ANYTHING AND STILL HAVE IT BE JUST AS STRONG AS ANYOTHER WELD JUST MAKE SURE YOUR TACK/SPOT WELD ISN'T TO FAR APART AND WASH YOUR NEW SPOT WELD INTO THE PREVIOUS SPOT WELD WHILE IT'S STILL HOT...ALSO PAY ATTENTION WHEN SPOT WELDING TO TIE IN YOUR BASE MATERIAL...BE CAREFULL CONTINUOS WELDING FRAMES AND ARCH AREAS CAUSE THE HEAT WILL MAKE IT PULL/TWEEK THE FRAME...


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## Flaco712 (Oct 10, 2010)

Thanks for the reassurance I have doing my frame that way after trying this kind of weld on some other projects and I have been plating to where I catch the frame in the welds I feel it should be strong enough and a friend of mine bought a wrapped frame from a hydraulic shop and that guy said that's how he does all his frames but his welder is timed to turn on and off me I can't afford all that so I would say I've hit the trigger over a million times so far but it looks great so far


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

Flaco712 said:


> Thanks for the reassurance I have doing my frame that way after trying this kind of weld on some other projects and I have been plating to where I catch the frame in the welds I feel it should be strong enough and a friend of mine bought a wrapped frame from a hydraulic shop and that guy said that's how he does all his frames but his welder is timed to turn on and off me I can't afford all that so I would say I've hit the trigger over a million times so far but it looks great so far


YEA YOU DO NOT NEED A SPOT TIMMER...MINE DOESN'T HAVE IT AND I WOULDN'T USE IT IF IT DID...THE MORE YOU DO IT THE MORE YOU WILL GET THE FEEL FOR IT...


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## Flaco712 (Oct 10, 2010)

Totally agree I have my technique down but my welder isn't liking it so much it stops pushing the wire when I release the trigger but the gas stays on and it will spark to the metal if the tip touches until I smack the side so I need to open it up and see what's going on


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

I use the spot timer for body work or any sheet metal welding. You set the machine up and there is no guess work when it comes to how long to keep the arc going. I would NEVER weld thin chit without a timer again...


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## doctahouse (Sep 10, 2004)

TRUNKWORKS said:


> DONE WITH A HOMEDEPOT LINCOLN 180
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice work:thumbsup:


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## cadillacking602 (Dec 4, 2008)

great topic,is a flux welder good for doing frames work 1/4 n 3/16 & differential 110 lincoln heavy duty fluxcore (wire feeder)
TTT


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

yes good topic  i started it cause im a newbee at welding an wanna be able to do my own frames ect for low lows !!!.but yea.good info pics an all :thumbsup:


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## BIG STUART~GT (Jun 9, 2009)

lincoln 256 is a beast. good overall welder. has a good range of settings from fine ones to weld in body panels and floors up to 2" plate. lincoln 215 is also a good welder. bought a millermatic 212 and brought it back the same day..


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## SWELL PASO TEXAS (Oct 3, 2009)

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

TRUNKWORKS said:


> SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO SPOT WELD...YOU CAN SPOT WELD ANYTHING AND STILL HAVE IT BE JUST AS STRONG AS ANYOTHER WELD JUST MAKE SURE YOUR TACK/SPOT WELD ISN'T TO FAR APART AND WASH YOUR NEW SPOT WELD INTO THE PREVIOUS SPOT WELD WHILE IT'S STILL HOT...ALSO PAY ATTENTION WHEN SPOT WELDING TO TIE IN YOUR BASE MATERIAL...BE CAREFULL CONTINUOS WELDING FRAMES AND ARCH AREAS CAUSE THE HEAT WILL MAKE IT PULL/TWEEK THE FRAME...


This is true also. 
In theory doin continuos spots to get the ''dime'' look is said to be less strong due to the overlappin of cold spots (the little dips that are in the middle of the spot weld), but in practice its been proven that on our application is plenty strong, even thou you will always find a smart ass that will talk down your work just cause he thinks he knos it all, or even for simply doin it in a diffrent way than his. Gotta learn to ignore such non-constructive criticism, aka shit talk  
Anyway, i wouldnt advise a newb to do the ''spots bead'' as it is preferable to have a mediocre lookin bead that is strong, rather than a seamingly nice looking one that lacks penetration and strenght.
The way i see it is that theory is plenty good as a guideline, as the application radius is so vast that what works in one particular field could be monumental faliure on another and vice versa.
Btw, im no pro, im still learnin how to ''stack the puddle'' properly, but being something i really enjoy doin i studied enuff, but mostly fucked up shit enuff  to be confident of my work, but also being realistic i kno we never finish learning and perfecting our arts.


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## LowIndyd (Jun 27, 2009)

dogbonekustoms said:


> This is true also.
> In theory doin continuos spots to get the ''dime'' look is said to be less strong due to the overlappin of cold spots (the little dips that are in the middle of the spot weld), but in practice its been proven that on our application is plenty strong, even thou you will always find a smart ass that will talk down your work just cause he thinks he knos it all, or even for simply doin it in a diffrent way than his. Gotta learn to ignore such non-constructive criticism, aka shit talk
> Anyway, i wouldnt advise a newb to do the ''spots bead'' as it is preferable to have a mediocre lookin bead that is strong, rather than a seamingly nice looking one that lacks penetration and strenght.
> The way i see it is that theory is plenty good as a guideline, as the application radius is so vast that what works in one particular field could be monumental faliure on another and vice versa.
> Btw, im no pro, im still learnin how to ''stack the puddle'' properly, but being something i really enjoy doin i studied enuff, but mostly fucked up shit enuff  to be confident of my work, but also being realistic i kno we never finish learning and perfecting our arts.


:thumbsup:


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## bgred20001 (Sep 26, 2012)

YOU COULD GO WITH FLUX CORE WELDING .ITS THE SAME AS MIG JUST DIFFERENT WIRE .THE WIRE U SELECT WILL DETERMAN THE TINSEL STRENGTH


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

:thumbsup: .........we started off with stick welding at skool.....an we started talking about mig now......ready to learn an practice practice practice so i can do my own lowrider work !!!.need to buy me a welder as soonas possible tho


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

yeah stay away from 110V welders!!


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## SUENOS DIVINOS (Sep 23, 2008)

KAKALAK said:


> yeah stay away from 110V welders!!


*Not true*. i have been AWS certified for manual and semi-automatic in varies position (3G, 4G) Basically to weld vertical, horizontal and overhead. As long as you stay within the limits of your machine 110v welders can weld anything you will ever weld on a lowrider. I personally have welded *1" thick metal plates together with a 110 wirefeed*. We then tested and passed, with visual and xray inspections after a* guided bend test*. This test uses a hydraulic press to bend a strip cut across both plates. the plate is bent into a complete U. if it even has a hairline crack, it does not pass. If you can weld correctly you can use a 110. Now dont get me wrong i use both 110 and 220 but usually only use 220 because i like to stick weld for better control and manipulation when i need it.


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

KAKALAK said:


> yeah stay away from 110V welders!!


I AGREE


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

SUENOS DIVINOS said:


> *Not true*. i have been AWS certified for manual and semi-automatic in varies position (3G, 4G) Basically to weld vertical, horizontal and overhead. As long as you stay within the limits of your machine 110v welders can weld anything you will ever weld on a lowrider. I personally have welded *1" thick metal plates together with a 110 wirefeed*. We then tested and passed, with visual and xray inspections after a* guided bend test*. This test uses a hydraulic press to bend a strip cut across both plates. the plate is bent into a complete U. if it even has a hairline crack, it does not pass. If you can weld correctly you can use a 110. Now dont get me wrong i use both 110 and 220 but usually only use 220 because i like to stick weld for better control and manipulation when i need it.


:scrutinize: I'm going to call BS on the one inch plate. With enough preheat I'm sure you can "stick" the metal together but, there is no way a 110v welder can produce enough amps to make a sound weld that thick. Don't get me wrong, there are things you can do to weld a little thicker but, there's not a 110v welder out there capable of welding material that thick. Weld another piece of 1" and do a cut away so we can see the penetration.


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## TRUNKWORKS (Dec 23, 2008)

S10lifted said:


> :scrutinize: I'm going to call BS on the one inch plate. With enough preheat I'm sure you can "stick" the metal together but, there is no way a 110v welder can produce enough amps to make a sound weld that thick. Don't get me wrong, there are things you can do to weld a little thicker but, there's not a 110v welder out there capable of welding material that thick. Weld another piece of 1" and do a cut away so we can see the penetration.


LOL


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

Probably beveled, then welded with multiple passes done very slowly and waved a lot. Thats how i would do it.
Of course a 180a and up makes it easier . I always figured we sorta go overkill on most frame work, which is ok of course.
Until a few years ago i always used mma for 1/4 plate and frame work in general, and i used to set the amps at about 100.
This said, wouldnt suggest a newb to get a 110a mig machine, regardless of what it can do.


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## SUENOS DIVINOS (Sep 23, 2008)

S10lifted said:


> :scrutinize: I'm going to call BS on the one inch plate. With enough preheat I'm sure you can "stick" the metal together but, there is no way a 110v welder can produce enough amps to make a sound weld that thick. Don't get me wrong, there are things you can do to weld a little thicker but, there's not a 110v welder out there capable of welding material that thick. Weld another piece of 1" and do a cut away so we can see the penetration.


*LOL, NO B.S. on the 1" plate. *SORRY I DIDNT WANT TO WRITE A FULL STORY ON ONE COMMENT. As dogbonecustoms assumed, i did not weld the 1" plates together with one pass. I NEVER stated that i did. I was simply expressing that you can and I HAVE done so with a 110. And the 110 was cabale of welding them together just as strong as a 220.

1. Cut two 1" thick plates measuring 6"x4"
2. Cut a bevel on one end of each plate
3. Tacked a backing plate to bottom of two plates (with to beveled ends at center over backing plate)
4. Started with a single pass for the root pass
5. Welded across the entire valley weld over weld
6. Once plates were welded solid the backing plate was removed
7. Then an 1 1/2" strip was cut across the two plates and weld (using a band saw)
8. The strip was then put on the hydraulic press to bend it
9. After being bent completely into a U shape it was tested
10. Passed without even a hairline crack or any type of inclusion (slag, or voids)

Im not in anyway suggesting for anyone to weld 1' thick plates together with a 110v welder. Im simply saying that a 110 can be used to weld most material together for a lowriders needs. I am a UNION IRONWORKER, taught and experienced to weld together structures, buildings, steel mills and bridges. Clearly we do not use a 110v welder, but even a 220v welder, has its limits. Every machine has its limits, and will perform its job if used accordingly. If welded correctly a multi-pass or fillet weld is just as strong as and in some cases stronger than a single pass.


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

SUENOS DIVINOS said:


> *LOL, NO B.S. on the 1" plate. *SORRY I DIDNT WANT TO WRITE A FULL STORY ON ONE COMMENT. As dogbonecustoms assumed, i did not weld the 1" plates together with one pass. I NEVER stated that i did. I was simply expressing that you can and I HAVE done so with a 110. And the 110 was cabale of welding them together just as strong as a 220.
> 
> 1. Cut two 1" thick plates measuring 6"x4"
> 2. Cut a bevel on one end of each plate
> ...


On material that thick you would need to run multiple passes even with a 220v welder. Spray transfer would be my preferred method but, you need A LOT more amps than a 110v welder can produce. Even smaller 220v units aren't hot enough for spray. Running multiple passes with a smaller unit may hold to a certain degree but, if you cut/polish the piece you will see the lack of penetration in the toes. You're basically using weld quantity to compensate. 
A 110v can be used for stress point wraps since you only need penetration equal to the thinner material (frame) but, you're limited by duty cycle. Full wraps are a little different. Even if you can produce "good enough" welfare for our application you're not going to produce structural welds in thicker material with a smaller unit.


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

I agree that a qualified welder can do most lowrider needs with a 110v but, the problem comes when people lacking that ability tries to weld critical parts I.e. suspension components. Too many lives depend on those welds to hold. Not to mention most people are too wrapped up in getting a "row of dimes" instead of focusing on getting a proper weld.


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

S10lifted said:


> . ... Not to mention most people are too wrapped up in getting a "row of dimes" instead of focusing on getting a proper weld.


True. And its funny how people that dont kno shit bashes on welds only cause they dont look that way, even if you can see from the root that is perfectly fine. What to say, pros and cons of the internet i guess. Everybody is mr.knowitall.


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## WUTITDU (Aug 23, 2006)

Visual is the first inspection in a weld , so if you don't pass that you are not proceeding to a bend , x-ray or what ever else kind of test. So the look is important of any weld


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## SUENOS DIVINOS (Sep 23, 2008)

S10lifted said:


> I agree that a qualified welder can do most lowrider needs with a 110v but, the problem comes when people lacking that ability tries to weld critical parts I.e. suspension components. Too many lives depend on those welds to hold. Not to mention most people are too wrapped up in getting a "row of dimes" instead of focusing on getting a proper weld.


I agree with that. Not everyone should be welding to save money. Im all for learning and doing the work your self, but NOT at the sacrifice of quality work. Too many people buy a machine and think because they can weld some racks together that dont fall apart, they can weld anything. Thats why i was trying to make the point that technique and ability will always surpass better equipment.
Roll of dimes is nice when you can perfect it, but like you said then people forget to look at the angle of their rod or wire. Penetration ends up uneven. 
Preperation is very inportant and most think it only requires half as grinding metals before welding. Positioning yourself to weld as confortable as possible, clean material, check for good ground, wearing proper gloves and sleeves, preheat areas to dry out the moisture in metal, and when possible preheat the rods too.


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

:thumbsup:


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

ttt


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

anymore good info???


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

yeah, visual is the first clue, but theres plenty of soild beads that are not perfect stacks of dimes. Specially on thick material. Gotta try n snap a good pic of a couple of my beads to show you what i mean, but my phone camera is crappy as fuck so its hard to get a good picture.


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## Mr.lincoln (Sep 2, 2011)

:thumbsup:


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