# BUCKLED QUARTER PANEL



## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

My Cadillac has a buckled quarter panel from the hydraulics (the spring broke through the frame, but I fixed it) and I was wondering the best way to bring it out. The trunk doesn't line up exactly right now on that side either. Help!

Here's a picture...












Last edited by CODE BLUE at Sep 27 2003, 01:29 AM


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## Low79Lac (Apr 8, 2003)

The best way to pull that out would be to use a frame wrack or a pull dozer. It needs to be pulled from the back. Most of that will come out that way.


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## 510sixone (May 24, 2003)

i would say use a doly and hamer if you can reach it that way you dont fuck up the paint as much. but if you cant you might have to use a studd gun.


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by Low79Lac_@Sep 23 2003, 04:26 PM
> *The best way to pull that out would be to use a frame wrack or a pull dozer. It needs to be pulled from the back. Most of that will come out that way.*


 I agree, you need to take the tension off the quarter by pulling it straight back. you have to weld a plate on the edge and pull straight back. most of that dent will pop back with minimal effort once the tension is off. then you will want to get the metal almost perfect then release the tension. you'll need to tie down the car so unless you got access to a bodyshop that does collison work, you'll need some help. I hate to say this but your going to have to go into the paint. See what looks like a bubble at the top of the crease. That spot is under a lot of tension and is stressed, that's not popping out without metal work.


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## lowriderlife (Sep 19, 2002)

> _Originally posted by abe0027_@Sep 23 2003, 08:34 PM
> *i would say use a doly and hamer if you can reach it that way you dont fuck up the paint as much. but if you cant you might have to use a studd gun.*


SORRY BRO---BUT A HAMMER AND DOLLY IS NOT GOING TO FIX THAT BUCKLE---LIKE STATED YOU HAVE STRESS ON THE QUARTER AND IT BUCKLED AT THE WEAKEST POINT-----FROM LOOKING AT WHERE THE BUCKLE IS I BET YOU HAVE YOUR BATTERIES ACROSS THE REAR OF THE TRUNK-----THAT WORKS GOOD FOR WEIGHT BUT BAD FOR CARS W/ LONG TRUNKS UNLESS YOU HAVE IT RE-INFORCED----THIS TYPE OF BUCKLE WILL ALWAYS HAPPEN BECAUSE OF THAT---BASICALLY YOUR CAR IS BOWING FROM THE WEIGHT IN THE TRUNK AN THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE AND IT GAVE-------THIS TYPE OF DAMAGE IS DIFFICULT TO FIX W/ OUT A FRAME MACHINE-----BEST THING WOULD BE TO TAKE IT INTO A BODY SHOP AND HAVE THEM PUT IT ON A FRAME MACHINE SO THEY CAN REALEASE THE STRESS--IT WOULD BE HARD TO PULL STRAIGHT BACK---THEY ACTUALLY WOULD HAVE TO PUSH UP BUT ONLY ON THE TRUNK AREA------ABVIOUSLY YOU WILL HAVE OTHER BODY WORK TO GET DONE AS WELL WHICH WILL REQUIRE YOU TO REPAINT AREAS OF THE CAR---THEN YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE TO REINFORCE THE QUARTERS SO IT WILL NOT HAPPEN AGAIN-----------GOOD LUCK----IN MY OPINION AFTER DAMAGE LIKE THIS CARS ARE NEVER THE SAME--==PEACE 



Last edited by lowriderlife at Sep 24 2003, 10:27 AM


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

Well, dont take it too badly. The car can indeed be fixed and be as good as it was before. The reason the quarter is creased, is because the frame has bent and allowed the body to flex. If you try to just straighten the sheetmetal without straightening, and strengthening the frame, odds are the problem will come back again, only worse.

A notorious stress point on those caddies, is immediately in front of the frame hump. Odds are good that is where yours may of gave. What you need to do is get the car to a good frame shop, where they can measure everything up and straighten it back up.

After that, you need to get those weak points plated to prevent the problem from happening again. In a caddy, I would reccomend at least a 3 sided plate job from the front of the frame hump back, a chain bridge, annd be sure to liberally plate the frame in front of the hump itself. Of course if you plan on hopping the car at all, you should also pull the a-arms and reinforce the top of the frame around their mounts, as they tend to rip through there. Short of a full body-off frame wrap, thats some of the minmal stuff you should consider getting done. But once again, dont attempt to just straighten out the sheetmetal without first addressing the frame issue.

You might also want to check all of your body mounts as well, to make sure they are tight and in place. After that, you should be ready to roll :thumbsup:


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it. I will probably end up repainting the car anyway. The frame has already been reinforced, body off, as well as the suspension. I bought the car in that condition and the rear spring perch on that side was broken and the spring/cylinder went through. I've since fixed that part, but the frame must have tweaked on the hump enough to buckle the quarter. Here is a picture of the setup, I went from 14 to 12 batteries.











Last edited by CODE BLUE at Sep 27 2003, 01:23 AM


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## CANUHOP (Jun 20, 2002)

Damn!!!I hate to see that shit-I hope my coupe never gets creased!It's fixable, but the metal will never be the same again-it's stretched, and flexed so much you've lost most of the strength in it.Evereyone on here's already told you the best things to do-I just had to get my .02 in :biggrin: Sorry about your car bro-good luck on gettin' that pretty thing back on the road-PEACE


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## lowriderlife (Sep 19, 2002)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Sep 24 2003, 11:28 PM
> *Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it. I will probably end up repainting the car anyway. The frame has already been reinforced, body off, as well as the suspension. I bought the car in that condition and the rear spring perch on that side was broken and the spring/cylinder went through. I've since fixed that part, but the frame must have tweaked on the hump enough to buckle the quarter. Here is a picture of the setup, I went from 14 to 12 batteries.
> 
> 
> ...


 lots of weight bro--------damn !!!----good luck homie!!

"richee"


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

i would bring it to a local technical college in your area they pretty much charge a small fee to pull the frame............


they don't charge much because the students are learning the trade and the instructor checks everything also to make sure it is straight before it leaves.........i just figured if you are on a budget you might check into this...good luck





when i was in school i did a flame job on a hood for the cost of paint.....only like $30!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

I took auto body in school a while back, I will check into that. Here's a pic of where the spring broke through. They were reinforced too!











Last edited by CODE BLUE at Sep 27 2003, 01:27 AM


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

damn that's why i like my chainbridges


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## lord of the flies (Mar 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Sep 23 2003, 12:54 AM
> *My Cadillac has a buckled quarter panel from the hydraulics (the spring broke through the frame, but I fixed it) and I was wondering the best way to bring it out. The trunk doesn't line up exactly right now on that side either. Help!
> 
> Here's a picture...
> ...


 save time and money,give up on trying to fix a buckled quater panel,once it buckles its a gonner,trust on this,i have seen to many people try to fix the problem only to find out the problem is still there!!!it can be done but it will cost a whole of money!!!!


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Here are a couple of new pics. My friend Mark welding (fixing the broken spring perch...hopefully) and closer pics of the buckled quarter panel. I noticed the frame was tweaked a little on top of the hump. Thanks for the help so far and more is appreciated!


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

bumpt


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

C'mon, help me out guys! :cheesy:


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

if you are still needing advice on the buckled quarter i would use a stud welder..............

you can buy them for $200 or so and they just weld a stud on and you can work the dent out that way if you need more info let me know...........good luck..........


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

you also might want to do what lowriderlife said and get the frame checked.........


hell if it was my ride i would take it to a tech school and throw it on the rack


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

T T T


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## OG 76 (Oct 6, 2002)

if i am correct cadillac bob just had his fixed from the help of a frame machince. That seems to be the only correct way to do it. You could always get a deflated football and shove it in the trunk where the quarter meets the trunk, then pump it up and, that would fix some of it depending how bad the buckle is. It will of course still want to flex but it's a temporary cheap fix. My buddy did it to his lac and it solved the apperance problem of the buckle. One of by friends from california informed me of this method of fixing the quarter just to roll and not look shitty....hopefully that will help you some. :biggrin:


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## Mikeb62 (Jul 23, 2003)

just a little off topic advise... i would move those noids from the top of the batt.. they could catch fire and then the batt.. my boy lost his whole ride like that.......


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## daoriginator64 (Oct 29, 2002)

i used to put small basketballs in the rear fenders and fill up the basketball and it will pop out the dent, i used to do it to a regal, just a cheap suggestion.lol........


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## 2drWood (May 24, 2003)

Thats a damn shame about that buckle

Thats the only thing that kept me from bidding on it on ebay.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

I'm going to repaint the car next spring, so I need to get this str8tened and make sure it doesn't happen again. The frame was already wrapped on top, bottom and the outside. After I get the frame checked on the rack, maybe I should weld more plating in the section of the frame that tweaked. What do you guys think? The actual bodywork on the sheetmetal shouldn't be too bad, just need to get the tension off of it. Thanks to everyone for the help so far, good ideas.


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

just my opinion bro but if your gunna repaint it next year then pull the body off and replace it with a fresh straight 1 ,whilst its of you can reinforce the frame a bit more ,just my .02 tho


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## Mark (Nov 9, 2003)

:uh: your going to need to use a big ass floor pull and weld on some sheet metel and give her a pull...then then your going to need to really work that area! :biggrin:


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

I would use a vector pull coming from the bottom and have another pull stretching the 1/4 to take some tension off. then I would bond some brackets onto the panelon eith side of the dent and stick my porta power in between them to stretch the dent back out, at the same time working it all from the back. regardless you are going to have to shrink the metal. But is multiple pulls are used right most of that should pop out nice! i know I've done lots of it before.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Thanks guys for the help, I do appreciate it.


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by skandalouz_@Nov 14 2003, 09:51 PM
> *I would use a vector pull coming from the bottom and have another pull stretching the 1/4 to take some tension off. then I would bond some brackets onto the panelon eith side of the dent and stick my porta power in between them to stretch the dent back out, at the same time working it all from the back. regardless you are going to have to shrink the metal. But is multiple pulls are used right most of that should pop out nice! i know I've done lots of it before.*


 where's your pics. i don't belive you :angry: 




j/k :biggrin:


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT+Nov 16 2003, 07:29 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (SWITCHCRAFT @ Nov 16 2003, 07:29 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--skandalouz_@Nov 14 2003, 09:51 PM
> *I would use a vector pull coming from the bottom and have another pull stretching the 1/4 to take some tension off.  then I would bond some brackets onto the panelon eith side of the dent and stick my porta power in between them to stretch the dent back out,  at the same time working it all from the back.  regardless you are going to have to shrink the metal.  But is multiple pulls are used right  most of that should pop out nice!  i know  I've done lots of it before.*


where's your pics. i don't belive you :angry: 




j/k :biggrin:[/b][/quote]
Don't got time to take pics, its called flat rate! :biggrin:


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by skandalouz+Nov 17 2003, 03:30 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (skandalouz @ Nov 17 2003, 03:30 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Don't got time to take pics, its called flat rate! :biggrin:[/b][/quote]
:roflmao: :roflmao:


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## Lime69 (Oct 31, 2003)

:uh: i recomend fiberglassing the inside of your quarters after everything worked out, just a little more strength on the sheetmetal, its working for me. :uh:


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by Lime69_@Nov 16 2003, 09:38 PM
> *:uh: i recomend fiberglassing the inside of your quarters after everything worked out, just a little more strength on the sheetmetal, its working for me. :uh:*


 I would just bens a piece of 16 ga to fit the contour of the 1/4 and use structural adhesive to glue it in, less messy, and faster than fiberglass!


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## Lime69 (Oct 31, 2003)

i agree, do something to strenghten up those 1/4's, messy or not.


I actually used duraglass[ fiberglass bondo] nnot as messy as fiberglass resin. but not as strong, its workrd so far.

The paint and patterns were tight sucks to paint over.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Do you have to sand down the inside of the quarters when you put fiberglass on? Also, I don't think I can get to the inside of the panel where the buckle is very easily. If I can get it straigtened out though, I would like to strengthen those quarters. I like the patterns on there and when I repaint, I would like to try and duplicate them (probably in a different color). Anyone know how I could duplicate the patterns to paint back on later? Here's another pic of the graphics...

__
Image uploading. Refresh page to view












Last edited by CODE BLUE at Nov 17 2003, 10:35 PM


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

Lay some fine line tape down and trace the pattern on the car. then using the fineline as your template trace the pattern onto transfer paper and your set.


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by skandalouz_@Nov 18 2003, 06:37 AM
> *Lay some fine line tape down and trace the pattern on the car. then using the fineline as your template trace the pattern onto transfer paper and your set.*


 or lay the paper over the fineline and use a crayon to "rub" the pattern


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

^bump^


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## Old School Habits (Jul 22, 2002)

FRAME MACHINE..........AND A HELL OF A BODY MAN 



Last edited by Old School Habits at Nov 27 2003, 12:11 PM


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## Old School Habits (Jul 22, 2002)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Sep 23 2003, 12:54 AM
> *My Cadillac has a buckled quarter panel from the hydraulics (the spring broke through the frame, but I fixed it) and I was wondering the best way to bring it out. The trunk doesn't line up exactly right now on that side either. Help!
> 
> Here's a picture...
> ...


 you got your hands full buddy


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Gotta keep the topic alive before it disappears. As soon as the weather gets a little warmer, I'm going to get working on fixing this quarter panel and the frame, as well as repainting. I'm going to ask the instructor at the technical school if he can get it on the frame machine (apparently they have a brand new one). Wish me luck!  :dunno:


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## bosshogglac (Oct 25, 2003)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Sep 25 2003, 01:03 PM
> *i would bring it to a local technical college in your area they pretty much charge a small fee to pull the frame............
> 
> 
> ...


 Never.........
Stay away for colleges............

St.Paul technical is trying to charge me $2,700 to rebuild a 307......


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## supermachine (Jan 26, 2004)

my .02...

i'd send it out to someonewith a genesis frame analyzer...( laser balanced) but it may not work so well if the frame is strapped due to the inability to locate the targets onto the correct frame points, then, just for kicks, i'd give dent wizard a call and try to keep that paint, that's really sweet, you never know, i've seen the dent wiz guys do alot of work, they are super good and if you know one he'd prob get it done in about 4 hours for maybe like 200-300, but you gotta get the stress off the qtr, then i'd do the bonding compound sheetmetal trick like the other guy said

my .02


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

Yep, I suffered the same pain...

Before:



















And After:










If you plan on hopping the car seriously, pull that body completely off, straighten that frame out then plate the FUCK out of it. I had my frame pulled straight again and had the area in front of the wheel humps reinforced, but this season I'm taking the car to the next level so now its getting a brand new frame built for it altogether. Here are some shots of my new frame so far:


























You can make that bodywork as straight as you want, but if you dont pull the body and box in the frame in front of the wheel well and do a good 4 sided plate job from that point back, you can plan on fixing that sheetmetal again and again.

Look at it this way, the time and money you will save from not having to do the bodywork a second time, will cover alot of the expense of pulling the body off and fixing it right the first time.

Good luck! :biggrin:


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## Cadillac Mack (Dec 7, 2003)




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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Thanks for the help Cadillac Bob, I know you've had a struggle with bent frame and quarters, but it's looking good now.  When I take the car in to be put on the frame machine, what do you suggest I advise them of. Do the batteries have to be taken out, should the car be lifted, am I going to have to replate over the hump, etc.? Should I cut out the inner panel by the back seat so I can get to the dent better and then weld it back in? Let me know and thanks again.  Here are a couple more pics I took before winter...


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## schoolboylincoln (Jan 12, 2004)

I bet you could get a whole crew of people in the neighborhood to help ya.  I hope you get it straight soon. Your bro mentioned painting this summer :0 :biggrin:


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by schoolboylincoln_@Feb 21 2004, 10:26 PM
> *I bet you could get a whole crew of people in the neighborhood to help ya.  I hope you get it straight soon. Your bro mentioned painting this summer :0 :biggrin: *


 Dan, what do you know about Cadillacs? Just playin! :biggrin: Hey, as soon as the weather gets warmer we can start turning out these rides. I'm just working on the interior now, but it's coming along nicely.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Feb 20 2004, 06:20 PM
> *Thanks for the help Cadillac Bob, I know you've had a struggle with bent frame and quarters, but it's looking good now.  When I take the car in to be put on the frame machine, what do you suggest I advise them of. Do the batteries have to be taken out, should the car be lifted, am I going to have to replate over the hump, etc.? Should I cut out the inner panel by the back seat so I can get to the dent better and then weld it back in? Let me know and thanks again.  Here are a couple more pics I took before winter...
> 
> 
> ...


 All the Caddy experts, where you at?


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## Cadillac Bob (Apr 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Feb 20 2004, 08:20 PM
> *Thanks for the help Cadillac Bob, I know you've had a struggle with bent frame and quarters, but it's looking good now.    When I take the car in to be put on the frame machine, what do you suggest I advise them of.  Do the batteries have to be taken out, should the car be lifted, am I going to have to replate over the hump, etc.?  Should I cut out the inner panel by the back seat so I can get to the dent better and then weld it back in?  Let me know and thanks again.    Here are a couple more pics I took before winter...
> 
> 
> ...


Well, pop your trunk and show em whats in there and odds are good thats all the advising they need :biggrin: 

You can get the frame pulled without removing your system, the frame shop has detailed measurement charts that will tell them precisely where the frame will need to be pulled to in order to be factory straight again. When I had mine done I just set the car as as close to stock height as possible for the body guys.

Odds are good that the frame didnt bend on the hump, it probably bent in front of it, as thats one of their weakest spots and thats a hard place to reinforce with the body still on. It wouldnt hurt though to make sure you have good reinforcement on the inside and outside of the hump, all the way back to the bumper if possible.

As far as cutting out the inner panel, thats really not neccesary. Once the frame gets pulled back into place, most of the dent will vanish. Applying several coats of fiberglass resin as deep into the inside of the quarters as you can get afterwards though will help prevent the normal body flex the car gets from hopping.

But like I say, fiberglass alone wont do the trick. So long as you get that frame back into place and reinforce the hell out of it, you should be just fine.


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## 8FoCutty (Feb 14, 2004)

you can fix the frame yourself on a good hoist and some jacks, chain down the frame infront of the curve, have the body mounts losened off from the bend back too, jack up on the rear frame on either side... take pre and post mesurements, while its back in position wouldnt hurt to plate the outer side with some wrap, we did this on my buddies mazda b2200 that had 16" cylinders, so hard on the leafs it pulled the frame down, turned out perfect afterwards..... 



Last edited by 8FoCutty at Feb 26 2004, 10:36 AM


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Thanks for the help gentleman, I appreciate it.  :thumbsup:


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Just keeping the topic alive. The car should be going on the frame machine this month, so I'm going to get some pics to post up and maybe we can help someone else out too.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

The Caddy is going on the frame machine next Monday, so wish me luck. I'll try to get some pics.


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

There is some good advice here, but....

You said that the frame is already inforced?

My brothers mazda was inforced, but it still buckled. We took it to get the frame stretched but shop told us strait up that they can't work on a frame that has been reinforced.

Our only salution was to tos the old frame and get a new one and tripple force the bitch! 

That may be the best salution for you too.


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## fremontkillacali (Jan 7, 2003)

Next time reinforce your quarters...


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Got it on the frame machine today, so I guess we'll see what happens. :ugh:


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## 801Rider (Jun 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@May 10 2004, 06:02 PM
> *Got it on the frame machine today, so I guess we'll see what happens. :ugh:*


 Where'd you take it? Nice rides I've never seen 'em here before. But I think I've seen your Caprice :dunno: :biggrin:


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 801Rider+May 10 2004, 06:39 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (801Rider @ May 10 2004, 06:39 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--CODE BLUE_@May 10 2004, 06:02 PM
> *Got it on the frame machine today, so I guess we'll see what happens. :ugh:*


Where'd you take it? Nice rides I've never seen 'em here before. But I think I've seen your Caprice :dunno: :biggrin:[/b][/quote]
I took it to the local tech school, I know the instructor there and he isn't charging me a dime. 801Rider, are you going to the Firme Image car show in SLC on June 6? I'll be there, but I need to get the flyer so I can post it up.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@May 10 2004, 06:02 PM
> *Got it on the frame machine today, so I guess we'll see what happens. :ugh:*


 NO LUCK.


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## On Fire (Jan 14, 2002)

So I am assuming they weren't able to pull it... :dunno:


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by On Fire_@May 14 2004, 06:28 AM
> *So I am assuming they weren't able to pull it... :dunno:*


 Nope, he said he couldn't tell where the frame bent, because of all the plate steel reinforcement on the frame.  I guess I'll keep trying to get it fixed, but it's a little frustrating.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Here are a couple of pics on the frame machine.


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## Bigthangs (Jan 17, 2002)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Jun 19 2004, 08:57 PM
> *Here are a couple of pics on the frame machine.
> 
> 
> ...


 Is your axle slipping out?


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Bigthangs+Jun 21 2004, 07:33 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Bigthangs @ Jun 21 2004, 07:33 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--CODE BLUE_@Jun 19 2004, 08:57 PM
> *Here are a couple of pics on the frame machine.
> 
> 
> ...


Is your axle slipping out?[/b][/quote]
What do you mean?


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Here's a couple of pics, straightening the core support and aligning the hood, fenders, and header panel. All damaged from hopping, but all lined up now. Had some help from my brother (GM LOWS).




























Remember these pics cause it won't look all messed up for long.


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## CALVIN (Feb 12, 2002)

good luck homie

dem rims is HOT love da 3 prongs


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## Bigthangs (Jan 17, 2002)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE+Jun 21 2004, 08:06 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (CODE BLUE @ Jun 21 2004, 08:06 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
> 
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What do you mean?[/b][/quote]
Look where your back wheel is on the right then look at the position on the left  I had my axle break right there on the same side of my 82 Fleetwood while driving. Check your axle homie it could be a good time to fix or do another rear. btw mine broke one x-mas eve on the highway :0


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## deesta (Sep 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Lime69_@Nov 16 2003, 10:38 PM
> *:uh: i recomend fiberglassing the inside of your quarters after everything worked out, just a little more strength on the sheetmetal, its working for me. :uh:*


 YEP, MY HOMIE FIBERGLASS HIS QUARTER'S IN HIS LAC HE ALSO CUT OUT THE METAL PEACE IN THE TRUNK TO GET TO PART WHERE YOURS BUCKEL AT TO FIBERGLASS,MY LAC BUCKEL TO MONTHS AGO BUT IT WAS RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE QUARTER,HE USE A PEACE OF WOOD WRAPED WITH CLOTH AND HIT IT OUT WITH A HAMMER AND THEN HE FIBER GLASSED MY QUARTER'S YOU CAN STILL SEE A LINE IN MY QUARTER IF I LOOK CLOSE BUT THAT BIG NASTY BUCKEL IS GONE.


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## BigNasty85Regal (Dec 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by deestad+Jun 27 2004, 10:09 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (deestad @ Jun 27 2004, 10:09 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--Lime69_@Nov 16 2003, 10:38 PM
> *:uh: i recomend fiberglassing the inside of your quarters after everything worked out, just a little more strength on the sheetmetal, its working for me. :uh:*


YEP, MY HOMIE FIBERGLASS HIS QUARTER'S IN HIS LAC HE ALSO CUT OUT THE METAL PEACE IN THE TRUNK TO GET TO PART WHERE YOURS BUCKEL AT TO FIBERGLASS,MY LAC BUCKEL TO MONTHS AGO BUT IT WAS RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE QUARTER,HE USE A PEACE OF WOOD WRAPED WITH CLOTH AND HIT IT OUT WITH A HAMMER AND THEN HE FIBER GLASSED MY QUARTER'S YOU CAN STILL SEE A LINE IN MY QUARTER IF I LOOK CLOSE BUT THAT BIG NASTY BUCKEL IS GONE.[/b][/quote]
big nasty :uh:


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE+May 14 2004, 05:11 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (CODE BLUE @ May 14 2004, 05:11 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--On Fire_@May 14 2004, 06:28 AM
> *So I am assuming they weren't able to pull it...  :dunno:*


Nope, he said he couldn't tell where the frame bent, because of all the plate steel reinforcement on the frame.  I guess I'll keep trying to get it fixed, but it's a little frustrating.[/b][/quote]
then i say your guy needs to take a refresher course in frame straightening. Just because something is reinforced, or modified, if done correctly there should be enough symetrical reference pints to go by. you can even check your datum still if you have magnetic hangers. you just got to use your imagination. you might not get the measurements 100", but you can get them within 1/4", and on a full frame that's good enough. do you got access to a wheel alignment machine at all, you can do a runout and caster sweep and have it check the thrust line. all this can point you in the direction of where the frame might be bent.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by skandalouz_@Jun 28 2004, 05:33 PM
> *Do you got access to a wheel alignment machine at all, you can do a runout and caster sweep and have it check the thrust line. all this can point you in the direction of where the frame might be bent.*


 I thought about that, but I haven't tried it yet. Thanks for the help skandalouz.


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE+Jun 28 2004, 06:42 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (CODE BLUE @ Jun 28 2004, 06:42 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--skandalouz_@Jun 28 2004, 05:33 PM
> *Do you got access to a wheel alignment machine at all,  you can do a runout and caster sweep and have it check the thrust line.  all this can point you in the direction of where the frame might be bent.*


I thought about that, but I haven't tried it yet. Thanks for the help skandalouz. [/b][/quote]
:biggrin:


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## PLANETGETLOW (Sep 22, 2003)

Wow.....some seriously frightening pictures right there........I will defineately be taking some things into conisderation before I hop!!!!!!

WHOA


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## GM LOWS (Oct 22, 2003)

Hey Code Blue I will get it done one of these days.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

bumpa


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## tRiCk oR tReAt 2 (Aug 7, 2003)

eh.... the body is saggin... if u were to put bigger body mounts in the back and heat up tha buckled area A LITTLE it should pop out... if u look at the pick the pressure point on that buckle is at the top.... most of the time a car buckles is cause its saggin... that should fix it i mean thats the way i would go about fixing it... also if u get a dolly hammer and tap it softly while raising the rear of th body off the chasis a lil bit it might pop out... then fiberglass the quarters... i seen people do that before and hopppppppppp and no buckles...


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by tRiCk oR tReAt 2_@Aug 27 2004, 08:17 PM
> *eh.... the body is saggin... if u were to put bigger body mounts in the back and heat up tha buckled area A LITTLE it should pop out... if u look at the pick the pressure point on that buckle is at the top.... most of the time a car buckles is cause its saggin... that should fix it i mean thats the way i would go about fixing it... also if u get a dolly hammer and tap it softly while raising the rear of th body off the chasis a lil bit it might pop out... then fiberglass the quarters... i seen people do that before and hopppppppppp and no buckles...
> [snapback]2174259[/snapback]​*


Thanks for the help man, that sounds like some good advice. The car is now almost entirely straightened and primered, except for the trunk lid and that quarter panel.


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Aug 29 2004, 08:21 PM
> *Thanks for the help man, that sounds like some good advice.  The car is now almost entirely straightened and primered, except for the trunk lid and that quarter panel.
> [snapback]2179032[/snapback]​*



just grind off the paint on both sides of the buckel and use some body filler to attach a couple of metal 90 degree brackets. Let it cure up good then put a small portapower in there and put some tension on it, at the same time jakc up on the back of that 1/4 panel. then pop the dent out and use a toe dolly with a slapping file on the high spots!


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## themadmexican (Aug 30, 2004)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Sep 22 2003, 11:54 PM
> *My Cadillac has a buckled quarter panel from the hydraulics (the spring broke through the frame, but I fixed it) and I was wondering the best way to bring it out.  The trunk doesn't line up exactly right now on that side either.  Help!
> 
> Here's a picture...
> ...


you can take the dent out, but...your quarter panel would still be wavy as fuck. you would have to re-bodywork and paint it.


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## show-bound (Apr 5, 2004)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Sep 23 2003, 02:54 AM
> *My Cadillac has a buckled quarter panel from the hydraulics (the spring broke through the frame, but I fixed it) and I was wondering the best way to bring it out.  The trunk doesn't line up exactly right now on that side either.  Help!
> 
> Here's a picture...
> ...



dude you got four pumps in a lux....

leave it how it is and just go finish fucking it up and make it a dancer...

if you want to have nice shit....then just use one pump to raise the mother fuck and drop it....

other than that get another fucking car cuz that one is fucked!


never under stood the concept of 4 pumps unless for show or dancing...

so get over it....


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by show-bound_@Sep 2 2004, 10:56 PM
> *dude you got four pumps in a lux....
> 
> leave it how it is and just go finish fucking it up and make it a dancer...
> ...


WOW
:0


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## show-bound (Apr 5, 2004)

oh yeah, im willing even to help you out , sell me your undercarriege, so i can put on my caddi,

what are you spending trying to pull that quarter out....

you can pick another caddi up for under a g$$$ and just swap everything, all you are really out is just a paint job, and some good man hrs swaping parts!


oh yeah if you take the side panel off you have access to the inner panel and all you have to doo is pop it out....

all in all it will pop back, just a little secret.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)




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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Here are a couple of recent pics of the car, just needs the quarter panel fixed and a new trunk lid and bumper filler.



















No more Chuckie...


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## phx rider (Aug 22, 2002)

its a little offtopic but are you going with blue/gold again?? no to be rude i liked the the car but it was a horrible color scheme..maybe you should try some thing else any ways good luck


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

I'm planning on going two tones of blue over more of a neutral color (silver, charcoal, etc.) But I'm not sure yet. It will look better than before though.


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## phx rider (Aug 22, 2002)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Sep 21 2004, 07:41 PM
> *I'm planning on going two tones of blue over more of a neutral color (silver, charcoal, etc.)  But I'm not sure yet.  It will look better than before though.
> [snapback]2236060[/snapback]​*



sounds good once again good luck homie  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by phx rider_@Sep 21 2004, 10:05 PM
> *sounds good once again good luck homie   :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
> [snapback]2236354[/snapback]​*


Thanks, bro!


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

Back from the dead!


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## 509Rider (Oct 20, 2003)

> _Originally posted by CODE BLUE_@Dec 30 2004, 11:46 PM
> *Back from the dead!
> [snapback]2558757[/snapback]​*


Hows the progress?


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 509Rider_@Dec 31 2004, 01:49 AM
> *Hows the progress?
> [snapback]2559051[/snapback]​*


Not too great, plus the weather sucks around here. I did get a straight trunk lid though from a salvage yard.  Just thought I would bring the topic back up for anyone who might not have seen it.


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

T T T


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## CODE BLUE (Aug 9, 2003)

I have the entire car primered and almost ready to paint, except for the quarter panel. Anymore suggestions would be appreciated. I'm getting frustrated with this project, but I need to get it done.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

dont give up on it


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