# Help switching over 350 turbo to 700r4 in a 64' Impala



## king debo

I'm thinking about swapping out my 350 turbo for a 700r4. What all should I expect to change to do the swap? Drive shaft? Shift linkage? etc etc? If you've done it on your 64', any advice or help would be great.. Pics too, if you have them..


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## pink63impala

Do you have a long tail 350? If so no shaft more needed. You'll need to mod your crossmember or buy one made. Some adjustments to your linkage and you'll need the brackets to book the tv cable to the carb.


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## king debo

Mines a long tail


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## dcairns

I did that exact swap on my 64. First off, it is worth it!!!


Dropping the drive shaft on the old TH350. Keep an oil pan underneath as transmission fluid can come out the tail shaft.










Disconnect the other end and then remove the center carrier bearing in the middle of the X in the X frame. Good time to replace the carrier bearing.










Kind of cheesy, but this is how I supported the engine while removing the transmission. I was concerned the engine, supported only by the motor mounts, would tilt, damaging the motor mounts and/or the engine fan or even my head if the motor mounts gave way 



















Freshly built 700r4 done by OC Transmission in Costa Mesa Ca.









TV Cable, shift linkage and new offset crossmember (bow tie overdrives)




















Pretty easy to get the now trans in there. Notice the parking brake brackets, that will be an issue later 











This is where the trans cooler lines hook up. The stock lines work, with a bit of bending.















Dip stick comes up in an odd spot if you have A/C. In the end, I took the TH350 dip stick and trimmed the 700r4s tube to the TH350's length. This way the stick would read correctly and still look like a Powerglide dipstick.











Lokar shift linkage. Works good, except engine vibration is transmitted to the column shift lever too much for my liking, so I later came up with another linkage that also looked more stock from above.











Drive shaft after shortening and rebalancing. I also had a slip joint added to the rear shaft. This is supposed to help the stock carrier bearing last longer and in a low riding context, is probably a requirement with the extreme suspension travels.











Drive shaft installed, and a conflict between the U-joint and the parking brake brackets is evident.










Flattening out the horizontal bar and shortening the rod on the right by curving it solved that issue.










TV Cable setup. Very important to get this right or you can trash the new transmission!!!!!! The old kick down bracket from the TH350 fits the TV cable nicely. Just needed a extra bit on metal on the carb linkage to get the cable end in the right spot.





















All installed. I later switched the TV cable setup to be actuated by the old Power Glide kick down rods for stock appearance from the top.










Rear end ratio was 3.55 with the TH350 (3200 RPM on the freeway ). Everyone advised using 3.73 ratio so I did that. With the 700r4 in overdrive, it is now 2400 rpm on the freeway  Honestly, the 3.55 ratio would have been fine with just a slight loss in performance. I have a lot of torque with my 383 (just looks like a 327 ) so it can run at even lower rpms on the freeway and be happy. Lower rpms make for a quieter and more relaxing drive.


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## str8 klwnn

nice pics and wright up i switched my 63 impala with a 700r4 and i used this wright up for the tv cable set up cause that part is the most important or else


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## ~DROPITLOW~

:nicoderm:


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## lone star

What does the tv cable do and whys it so important? Im wanting to go from powerglide to 4 speed.....


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## dcairns

TV cable communicates the position of the throttle to the transmission. It is used to set the transmissions line pressure and shift points. If you leave it off, the transmission will be operating with low line pressure and burn up parts in a hurry.

Learn more:
http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm


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## ~DROPITLOW~

dcairns said:


> I did that exact swap on my 64. First off, it is worth it!!!
> 
> 
> Dropping the drive shaft on the old TH350. Keep an oil pan underneath as transmission fluid can come out the tail shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disconnect the other end and then remove the center carrier bearing in the middle of the X in the X frame. Good time to replace the carrier bearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of cheesy, but this is how I supported the engine while removing the transmission. I was concerned the engine, supported only by the motor mounts, would tilt, damaging the motor mounts and/or the engine fan or even my head if the motor mounts gave way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freshly built 700r4 done by OC Transmission in Costa Mesa Ca.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TV Cable, shift linkage and new offset crossmember (bow tie overdrives)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy to get the now trans in there. Notice the parking brake brackets, that will be an issue later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where the trans cooler lines hook up. The stock lines work, with a bit of bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dip stick comes up in an odd spot if you have A/C. In the end, I took the TH350 dip stick and trimmed the 700r4s tube to the TH350's length. This way the stick would read correctly and still look like a Powerglide dipstick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lokar shift linkage. Works good, except engine vibration is transmitted to the column shift lever too much for my liking, so I later came up with another linkage that also looked more stock from above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drive shaft after shortening and rebalancing. I also had a slip joint added to the rear shaft. This is supposed to help the stock carrier bearing last longer and in a low riding context, is probably a requirement with the extreme suspension travels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drive shaft installed, and a conflict between the U-joint and the parking brake brackets is evident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening out the horizontal bar and shortening the rod on the right by curving it solved that issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TV Cable setup. Very important to get this right or you can trash the new transmission!!!!!! The old kick down bracket from the TH350 fits the TV cable nicely. Just needed a extra bit on metal on the carb linkage to get the cable end in the right spot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All installed. I later switched the TV cable setup to be actuated by the old Power Glide kick down rods for stock appearance from the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rear end ratio was 3.55 with the TH350 (3200 RPM on the freeway ). Everyone advised using 3.73 ratio so I did that. With the 700r4 in overdrive, it is now 2400 rpm on the freeway  Honestly, the 3.55 ratio would have been fine with just a slight loss in performance. I have a lot of torque with my 383 (just looks like a 327 ) so it can run at even lower rpms on the freeway and be happy. Lower rpms make for a quieter and more relaxing drive.


:thumbsup:


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## yuma64

Good info


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## screech858

best write up iv'e seen if your doing this swap


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## LURCH63

Does the torque converter need to be changed as well?


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## warning

*FRANCISCO* said:


> Does the torque converter need to be changed as well?


Yeah


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## dcairns

I am not sure if the torque converter need to be changed, although I would imagine it would be different. I would also think it to be a good idea to use a fresh torque converter to avoid sediment from the old converter getting into the new transmission.


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## Doitbig7467

I have a 64 and a th400 to put in... Will that tubular crossmember for the 700r4 work with the th400? And if not does anybody know where i can one for a th400?


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## ~MASTERPIECE~

ttt. good info, lookin to up grade my 64


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## jtheshowstoppper

question for dcairns so you used the stock th350 kickdown bracket for the tv cable?


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## mr.cee

looking to do this upgrade soon! thanks for the info!!:thumbsup:


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## NorCalBoriquen

Seems complicated for a newbie. 
If I have the transmission what an I looking at in parts and having my drive shaft shaved? I will be replacing my th350


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## mr sal62

great job for better performance :thumbsup:


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## edelmiro13

Great info and pics !!!


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## MOSTHATED CC

I did this to my 57 and couldnt be more happy


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## 6 T 4 RAG

The speedo gear on the 700 trans do you have a part # for that? I need one.


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## edelmiro13

dcairns said:


> I did that exact swap on my 64. First off, it is worth it!!!
> 
> 
> Dropping the drive shaft on the old TH350. Keep an oil pan underneath as transmission fluid can come out the tail shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disconnect the other end and then remove the center carrier bearing in the middle of the X in the X frame. Good time to replace the carrier bearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of cheesy, but this is how I supported the engine while removing the transmission. I was concerned the engine, supported only by the motor mounts, would tilt, damaging the motor mounts and/or the engine fan or even my head if the motor mounts gave way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freshly built 700r4 done by OC Transmission in Costa Mesa Ca.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TV Cable, shift linkage and new offset crossmember (bow tie overdrives)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy to get the now trans in there. Notice the parking brake brackets, that will be an issue later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where the trans cooler lines hook up. The stock lines work, with a bit of bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dip stick comes up in an odd spot if you have A/C. In the end, I took the TH350 dip stick and trimmed the 700r4s tube to the TH350's length. This way the stick would read correctly and still look like a Powerglide dipstick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lokar shift linkage. Works good, except engine vibration is transmitted to the column shift lever too much for my liking, so I later came up with another linkage that also looked more stock from above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drive shaft after shortening and rebalancing. I also had a slip joint added to the rear shaft. This is supposed to help the stock carrier bearing last longer and in a low riding context, is probably a requirement with the extreme suspension travels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drive shaft installed, and a conflict between the U-joint and the parking brake brackets is evident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening out the horizontal bar and shortening the rod on the right by curving it solved that issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TV Cable setup. Very important to get this right or you can trash the new transmission!!!!!! The old kick down bracket from the TH350 fits the TV cable nicely. Just needed a extra bit on metal on the carb linkage to get the cable end in the right spot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All installed. I later switched the TV cable setup to be actuated by the old Power Glide kick down rods for stock appearance from the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rear end ratio was 3.55 with the TH350 (3200 RPM on the freeway ). Everyone advised using 3.73 ratio so I did that. With the 700r4 in overdrive, it is now 2400 rpm on the freeway  Honestly, the 3.55 ratio would have been fine with just a slight loss in performance. I have a lot of torque with my 383 (just looks like a 327 ) so it can run at even lower rpms on the freeway and be happy. Lower rpms make for a quieter and more relaxing drive.


Can you tell me what to what size did you have the drive shaft shorten ?


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## sand1

edelmiro13 said:


> Can you tell me what to what size did you have the drive shaft shorten ?


measure from the center of carrier bearing to tip of trans thats the lenght u need


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## thefreshchef

has anyone swapped a 3 speed manual to a 700r4? what else is needs to be done with a manual swap?


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## edelmiro13

sand1 said:


> measure from the center of carrier bearing to tip of trans thats the lenght u need


okay thanks


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## Hydrohype

keep this topic alive!


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## ~ 432 SIXTY 3 ~

???


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## thefreshchef

has anyone ever bought a 700r4 from bowtie overdrive? any feedback on their tranny's?


----------



## sand1

summit racing has em for like 1200


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## Nenin64

Great thread


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## Detour64

do you have pics of shift linkage?


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## ogedayy7

dcairns said:


> I did that exact swap on my 64. First off, it is worth it!!! Dropping the drive shaft on the old TH350. Keep an oil pan underneath as transmission fluid can come out the tail shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disconnect the other end and then remove the center carrier bearing in the middle of the X in the X frame. Good time to replace the carrier bearing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of cheesy, but this is how I supported the engine while removing the transmission. I was concerned the engine, supported only by the motor mounts, would tilt, damaging the motor mounts and/or the engine fan or even my head if the motor mounts gave way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freshly built 700r4 done by OC Transmission in Costa Mesa Ca.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TV Cable, shift linkage and new offset crossmember (bow tie overdrives)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy to get the now trans in there. Notice the parking brake brackets, that will be an issue later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where the trans cooler lines hook up. The stock lines work, with a bit of bending.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dip stick comes up in an odd spot if you have A/C. In the end, I took the TH350 dip stick and trimmed the 700r4s tube to the TH350's length. This way the stick would read correctly and still look like a Powerglide dipstick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lokar shift linkage. Works good, except engine vibration is transmitted to the column shift lever too much for my liking, so I later came up with another linkage that also looked more stock from above.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drive shaft after shortening and rebalancing. I also had a slip joint added to the rear shaft. This is supposed to help the stock carrier bearing last longer and in a low riding context, is probably a requirement with the extreme suspension travels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drive shaft installed, and a conflict between the U-joint and the parking brake brackets is evident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening out the horizontal bar and shortening the rod on the right by curving it solved that issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TV Cable setup. Very important to get this right or you can trash the new transmission!!!!!! The old kick down bracket from the TH350 fits the TV cable nicely. Just needed a extra bit on metal on the carb linkage to get the cable end in the right spot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All installed. I later switched the TV cable setup to be actuated by the old Power Glide kick down rods for stock appearance from the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rear end ratio was 3.55 with the TH350 (3200 RPM on the freeway ). Everyone advised using 3.73 ratio so I did that. With the 700r4 in overdrive, it is now 2400 rpm on the freeway  Honestly, the 3.55 ratio would have been fine with just a slight loss in performance. I have a lot of torque with my 383 (just looks like a 327 ) so it can run at even lower rpms on the freeway and be happy. Lower rpms make for a quieter and more relaxing drive.


 What model year or type 700r4 you use? or where you get it ? Please help. Thanks


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## ogedayy7

What type, model or year 700r4 you installed? please help me Thanks


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