# Car lifts will not lower



## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

OK, I have used the "Search" function on this site. I have found most information useful, which lead me buying three brand new batteries. I am also a newbie to auto mechanics and hydraulics. 

I am running 2 pumps, 4 dumps, and 3 batteries per pump.

With that in mind, below is my issue:

Now, the car lifts just fine. Solenoids click when I hit a switch. Put meter on the batteries and see 35 volts.

So why would the car lift but not lower? How do I manually release the pressure/fluid on the cylinders to lower the car to a manageable working height? I have 18" cylinders in the rear...so I have to get a damn step stool to mess around at this point.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Link to the batteries: http://www.batterysource.com/products.php?item_no=1360&detail=1


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## RiddinglowCR (Feb 26, 2008)

Solenoids click when you hit the switch down?


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## moorevisual (May 14, 2009)

is the slow down closed all the way? Or dumps not grounded? Bad switch?


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

So, I tried all ten switches. Solenoid does NOT click when I hit the down. Only up. I am maxed out on the up...LOL...Slow downs are opened all the way. 

So my grounding situation is not good on the trunk for the solenoids. They base of the trunk was ground to bare metal and then bolted to that. I bought the car this way. I need to get the car lowered so I can take to a fabrication shop to redo my trunk setup and battery trays, etc.


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## RiddinglowCR (Feb 26, 2008)

Ok, so your solenoids wont click when you hit the switch down. But I think you should hear a small click coming from the dumps when you hit the switch down. Like moorrevisual said (Or dumps not grounded? Bad switch?) check you're grounds on the dumps.


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

Shit...overlooked the dumps. Will check that tomorrow...I will also check for if I hear anything from the dumps tomorrow as well. 

Thanks again for all of your help. Will update tomorrow.


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## PAKO PRIMERO (Oct 28, 2009)

square dumps or cartridge dumps? if are cartridge dumps is normal u don't heard nothin...no clicks...but if are square dumps (adel or adex) u have to heard a "click"... so
crack the hoses and it should be layed after that, check all wiring/ground.


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

So, sorry for the ignorance. I am not sure how to tell what the dumps are. I have attached a picture of my DUMPS in this picture.


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## moorevisual (May 14, 2009)

cartridge dumps, I can hear the cartridge moving, when dumping mine.


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## AWSOM69 (Feb 6, 2002)

You have cartridge type dumps. Also, your solenoids will not click if you are trying to dump the car. Not sure how the other guy came up with that. Are you having a problem where you cant get both the rear and front of the car to dump. If it's not a wiring problems at your switches then it's possible that you have overlocked the car, meaning you have so much pressure in the lines the dumps can't overcome the pressure to lower the car. You can loosen your fittings just a bit to relieve the pressure and the car should start to drop. Do not loosen the fittings too much or the car will drop too fast and you could have a big fluid mess to clean up. You can wrap a rag around the fittings to catch the fluid while you do this. Just do one fitting at a time.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

gettingbuilt said:


> OK, I have used the "Search" function on this site. I have found most information useful, which lead me buying three brand new batteries. I am also a newbie to auto mechanics and hydraulics.
> 
> I am running 2 pumps, 4 dumps, and 3 batteries per pump.
> 
> ...


Has the car ever dumped? Opened the slow downs, checked for voltage or click at the dump? You have a filter? 

If anything, try to answer my first question, please. But open the slow down about 1/8th turn at first, 

I don't know why some users here on LIL like to hear just a one word reply, they seem to want it fixed now, if not they get more one word replies, they never learn anything. But if really want to learn the basics and be able to fix other issues for your setup, know how to trouble shoot.

No one has ever helped me fix any part of my setup, because I learned the basics of trouble shooting and know and the theory of operation.

It almost sounds like you have 4 extra checks valves facing the wrong way on the dump, It's possible, but naw. 

So get two pieces of wire to check for power, straight from the battery to the one dump, and take the second wire and tap on the battery neg post (using 24VDC right? this way you by pass all that other stuff that get in the way of trouble shooting if nothing happens, switch the wires around. If it works, then check the continuity on the switch. etc., etc. The crack open the other side, real slow, and make sure the slow down is say 1/8 turn to shuting, then raise it to 1/4 turn.

All you need to know is if you have a spark, no dumping? clean out the dump.

If you have the Adel and Adex type of dumps, or any other screw on connector you can use two insulated small roach clips on the pins wired up, be careful. Then go directly to the 24VDC post and the other to the first battery ground

In the mean time, if your coils are compressing into each other, you might have a pressure lock. Get a few rags and slowly crack open one of the stuck cylinders, Slowly, then the other side.

Shit here is more. What you might try when twisting something lose, be careful you don't want to break open your knuckle, what you do is extend your arms out as far as possible, leaving little room to keep you arm going after the part cracks. Another way is to use both hands/arms, one to crack the fitting and the other hand/arm is to hold your first hand back, in case you knuckles are facing some bolt heads. You just want to stop your hand from smashing other sharp parts of the car and to stop you from have a long stream of high pressure fluid shooting out. Just use rages from the hose to cylinder to cover. 

Didn't know there was much into loosening stuck bolts, eh?


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

On opening the trunk cylinders, this is why I like to use Parker combo valves I hope your brake hose is not stretching. 

Seeing the rear is the problem, HA! and not the front. you may need to climb into the trunk and use two wrenches 
looses up the hose at the dump and the other to keep the dump fitting in place. have lots of rag, once the one side dumps enough tighten it all up, then do the other side the same way.


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## LunaticMark (Jul 6, 2002)

make sure that the switch power is coming from 24v. If you are not running 24v to the switches, it can cause all of the symptoms that you are describing.


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

LunaticMark said:


> make sure that the switch power is coming from 24v. If you are not running 24v to the switches, it can cause all of the symptoms that you are describing.


So I have three new batteries in series. I put the 24v to the switches (with a 15amp fuse inline). I put a meter on the 24v and I am getting only 21 volts. Would this be the reason?


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## binky79 (May 2, 2009)

Should be a little over 25 volts. Might have a bad battery


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

OK, so I finally got the car lowered. I was a little nervous to break the hoses with the pressure. Damn did a lot of hydraulic fluid come out of them. I didn't have near enough rags on hand. Tomorrow I will fill the hydraulic fluid back up in the pumps and try it again. Tonight batteries are charging.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Hey, you never answered my first question.

If the front and rear of your car goes up, it's not the batteries. we/you want to hear the dumps click. If no clicking, it is the wiring or the dumps. Releasing the pressure is a good start (for newbies only, just go straight to the dump/s with 24VDC and making sure your slow downs are not wide open, cause you could snap a knee or bash your head. Pressure lock or chocked cylinder/s is the last thing to check for, then there is the stuck coil/s in the frame, we used to call "jack knifed" But anyways your rear went down. Bring the back up just a little, then apply 24 VDC straight to one rear dump. 

Just ground the dumps to the neg battery. Take out all the guess work, just bypass everything, go directly to the dump and power source.

On some dumps not clicking, I have not tested every dump known to lowriding, But it's the spark you want to see. When by passing all the other junk between the dump and battery, the dump could still be clogged and not click, but if you see the spark, and no click, it is the dump. Take it apart and clean out the o-rings parts and replace them.

Remember 24 volts straight to one dump, and ground that one dump to the neg battery. Forget the frame or sheet metal and the switch and connectors. If it then dumps, it's the wiring/ground/switch. Get a test light it's fast and easy to learn and use. Or better yet a mutli-meter.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Not to harp on this trouble shooting thing, but, on a car engine that is not running right, somewhere in the manual it says to look for a bad ground, why? just add another ground.


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

Hydros, binky79, lunaticmark, moorevisual, ridinglowcr....I thank you for your help. 

First, there was a ground issue on solenoids. I manually dumped the fluid from the cylinders and my car finally dropped. I charged batteries over night, added more hydraulic fluid and today my car raises. 

However, I still cannot dump the car. Front and back raises, with no issues. Just cannot dump. So I am thinking I may have the switches wired backwards. What do you think?


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

So I wired my switches in accordance with this guide: http://www.layitlow.com/tech/switches_10.shtml.

I cannot get any of the 4 corners to dump. I dropped the batteries down to 24v. Took out a bad battery. I am getting a full 24v to the switches. 

What do you think I can do to dump the car and effectively use the switches?

Thanks


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## Dumps (Jan 7, 2002)

Are you absolutely positive the 24 volts is in the center of each switch???
If it is not, that will cause the problem you are having.


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

Dumps said:


> Are you absolutely positive the 24 volts is in the center of each switch???
> If it is not, that will cause the problem you are having.


Dumps,

I put a meter on the positive wire going to the switches and it is getting 24.9v at the switches. I can raise no problem, can't dump either corner.


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## Dumps (Jan 7, 2002)

gettingbuilt said:


> Dumps,
> 
> I put a meter on the positive wire going to the switches and it is getting 24.9v at the switches. I can raise no problem, can't dump either corner.


And you are getting that reading from the center prong of the switch?


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

Yes, that is correct. I did have the positive to the switches on 12v. I corrected that and now getting 24.9v to the switches, still the same results.


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## Dumps (Jan 7, 2002)

How are your dumps wired??
One wire from the switch and the other going to ground??

Put your vm to the wire at 1 of the dumps and hit the switch down. If you have good voltage there, check your ground for the dump. If that does not work, you might have bad dump coils. But there is a way to check the coils if you get that far.


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

That is correct. I followed the instructions on this website for the 2 pumps, 4 dumps, 10 switches.


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## Dumps (Jan 7, 2002)

gettingbuilt said:


> That is correct. I followed the instructions on this website for the 2 pumps, 4 dumps, 10 switches.


Sorry. Added to my response above to give a check.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

I still have not figured out if you answered my first question?? 
Take two wires;, then take one and connect from the 24 v of the battery, straight to the dump, then put the other wire to the dump neg, or valve body, straight back to the battery ground, if that does not work, then switch the wires at the battery or the dump, (not both) make sure all connections are clean and tight connections...report results.

-------------------------------------DO THIS AFTER YOU REPORT THE ABOVE RESULTS------------------------------------------

This is for later, with your volt meter connected to the center of the switch, move the probe to one of the end terminals and hits the switch both ways, 
then move the probe to the other end and hits the switch both ways, report results.

I agree with Dumps, on the possible results, but I like to take out all the variables first. 

Just like a no starting your car, go straight from the battery (after you have checked it, to the motor post first, then work backwards. Yes there are other ways to trouble shoot. But I like to by pass the ignition switch, starter solinoid, alarm system, saftely neutral switch, seat bet sensors, seat sensors,


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

Hydro,

To answer your questions:

1. I hook up the VM to the switches. When I toggle the switch into the dump side of the switch, I get 25v to the dumps. When I toggle the switch to the pump side, I get 0v.
2. I took the dump negative & positive and hooked positive to 24v and negative to the battery ground. Damn car lifts in one corner. After a couple of taps, nothing happens. 

Now, plug the 15amp fuse for the switch 24v..the damn fuse just blows as soon as one switch is toggled.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Don't make me get out of my wheel chair...

Here is what might be happening, when you flip the switch looking at the switch from the top, when you flip the switch to the bottom, that down terminal is not going to work, it is the top side that will work. The switches we use are kinda like a titter-taller inside. So, don't use the switch at this time.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

gettingbuilt said:


> Hydro,
> 
> To answer your questions:
> 
> ...




1. I hook up the VM to the switches. When I toggle the switch into the dump side (read the previous post) of the switch, I get 25v to the dumps. ( but no click?) When I toggle the switch to the pump side, I get 0v. (read the previous post) 
2. I took the dump negative & positive and hooked positive to 24v and negative to the battery ground. Damn car lifts in one corner. (sounds impossible, if you have only 24 volts directly to the dump, without a switch, the car should not go up. After a couple of taps, nothing happens. (sounds like a connection)

Now, plug the 15amp fuse for the switch 24v..the damn fuse just blows as soon as one switch is toggled. (sounds like a a wiring problem at first)

*Did you go straight to the dump terminals and straight back to the battery? if it did/does not work, switch the wires to the battery or dump, not both. Keep the switch and fuse out of the this trouble shooting tests *

Please see video, there is no switch to lead me wrong, dump clicks and gets a spark -done. Dump is OK. Then on to the next test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5VUeuY2JCo*
*

Make sure your car is not completely dumped, you will need to see some action, as the dump and spark can be good, but the dump will not work because there is no presssure to dump. Raise the car with out using the switch, just put a jumper wire at 24vdc to one of the plus side of solinoid terminal.


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

Hydros,

I did just as you recommended the first time. I went straight from the dump to the battery positive and ground. I am not shitting you...car raised...I think my car is possessed. 

From the dump, there are two wires. I took one that was hooked up to the switch and cut the wire going to the switch. Hooked up a red cable for the positive....Took the wire that was grounded to the ground block and went straight to the battery ground. The car raised...and now I get nothing out of it. I can tap or hold the wires..nothing..I swap the positive/ground and nothing. 

I suppose I burnt up the dump. 

After the troubleshooting..I was curious about the switches, placed the fuse amp back into the 24v to the switches, toggled a switch and the damn fuse blows. Keep in mind, the one dump is still completely disconnected from the switches. 

When I attempt to dump, no clicks. When I raise the car I here the clicks in the solenoids though.


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## binky79 (May 2, 2009)

Is the slowdown closed ? It should drop when you hook dump straight up. 

Check your switch cord for breaks anywhere. Fusing blowing means its draw to many amps ams blowing the fuse. U sure you have it at 24 volts ?


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## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

:drama:


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

MUFASA said:


> :drama:


Yeah, I know, this is why I left NASA.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

gettingbuilt said:


> Hydros,
> 
> *I did just as you recommended the first time. I went straight from the dump to the battery positive and ground. I am not shitting you...car raised...I think my car is possessed. *
> 
> ...


This is getting just a little bazaar.


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## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

Hydros said:


> Yeah, I know, this is why I left NASA.


This is why i wouldnt work for NASA :|


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## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

Hydros said:


> This is getting just a little bazaar.


Not really. I think the car was up a bit, he dumped it direct, and that would make opposite corner raise a bit.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Thanks Mufasa,

That is something I never knew about or seen, is that because of the delta type dumps? And not the real 3-ways?


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## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

Im not sure you are understanding me. I think he got the dump to open and it dropped, but what he noticed was the opposite corner going up a bit. Like if i push down on driver rear corner, the front passenger will raise a bit. Thats what i think happened to him ??


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Lets go with Mufasa.

I was next going to get into feedback from the 24VDC battery and it's other cables connected to it and the dump completing another circuit. 

So it seems the dump is OK, but you never said one side went down, Can you redo that same test with the slow down just bit more closed and the car higher?

So it appears, for now, that the reason the dumps never dumped ( I still don't know if the front ever dumped) was no or week ground. I make my setup so each and every grounded part goes only to the neg battery post even the solinoids and pump motor, not the frame or sheet metal. but I can't remember how I tapped off of it, I got a picture somewhere.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

gettingbuilt said:


> Hydro,
> 
> To answer your questions:
> 
> ...


In the mean time:
The 0vdc has me puzzled.
The fuse blowing, might not be an issue, once the grounds are all good, (might not), what is the fuse used for? Seems like the fuse blew first and that's the reason for the 0VDC ??? I'm not there, I can't see anything...


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

On grounding to the dump bodies, This does work, but remember if you use thread tape or even o-rings or aluminum fittings and even the inside of rubber hoses, there is that chance you are not getting the best ground possible or dependable ground. 

A clean, tight straight ground to battery leaves no questions. But I got to find that picture that shows how the ground disconnect goes.


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## Dumps (Jan 7, 2002)

To me it sounds like your slowdowns are closed or they are blocked. 
Or did you use a check valve on the return keeping the car up??
Post better pictures of your plumbing and slow downs.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Dumps said:


> To me it sounds like your slowdowns are closed or they are blocked.
> Or did you use a check valve on the return keeping the car up??
> Post better pictures of your plumbing and slow downs.


and are you seeing that little spark each time you are tapping down the dump or battery?


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## gettingbuilt (Jun 21, 2015)

OK, so I have COMPLETELY disconnected the switches. I cut ALL of the wire going from the dumps to the switches. From the DUMPS, I go ground >> battery ground. From dump positive I go >> 24v on battery. I checked the battery I am getting 24.9v output. I do here a CLICKING noise coming from the dump when I tap the ground/24v to the battery terminals. No dump though. 

Attached are pictures of my plumbing. 

Thanks again for all of your help.


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## moorevisual (May 14, 2009)

maybe the slow down is busted and permanently shut.


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## Dumps (Jan 7, 2002)

I would say change the slowdown. It looks to be way in and could possibly be stuck closed.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

gettingbuilt said:


> OK, so I have COMPLETELY disconnected the switches. I cut ALL of the wire going from the dumps to the switches. From the DUMPS, I go ground >> battery ground. From dump positive I go >> 24v on battery. I checked the battery I am getting 24.9v output. I do here a CLICKING noise coming from the dump when I tap the ground/24v to the battery terminals. No dump though.
> 
> Attached are pictures of my plumbing.
> 
> Thanks again for all of your help.


You're getting there, was the car raised? If not, raise it up a fair amount. 

A possible yes on the slow downs, and its adjustment. 

But to test it out (another way)is to take off the return hose, stick the return hose into one of those large mike cartons. open the slow all the way. Then tap the dump wire real fast and see if it sparks. If nothing, just tap it longer a little bit at a time. I want to *know *the dump is working, opening the slowdown all the way is not the best idea, but it will give no false results. be sure to remove the air if the tank is pressurized, WE wanna see fluid spitting out and one side going down.

You don't need to be in the trunk, you can use one log wire cut in half, make your connections bat/dump are clean/tight, then tap the wire.
The problem with this is you don't know you have all five connections clean and tight, your multimeter would tell. 

There is all kinds of ways to check the dump and slow down.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Gettingbuilt, how is it working out for you, and news?


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## Heath V (Oct 12, 2010)

Mine was doing the same thing. Turned out to be a bad switch.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Heath V said:


> Mine was doing the same thing. Turned out to be a bad switch.


Yeah, just hold the switch to dump, check for click or volts at the dump or probe the dump wire. If nothing, go straight 24 VDC to dump, then dump works, switch is bad. 




Beside the click test you can also feel the dump if the inside is working, or use the rubber hose check = ear-hose-dump extra hand, or those things doctors use to hear your heart etc. Some auto techs will use a stick like the hose test. Man you can hear a bad bearing. Oh more bla-bla, with high amps you can most times feel for heat at the high amp connections, this tells you have high resistance, you need a clean tight connection covering more surface area. You can get burned,try using a digital thermometer


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## Its jsut ME (May 20, 2015)

gettingbuilt said:


> OK, I have used the "Search" function on this site. I have found most information useful, which lead me buying three brand new batteries. I am also a newbie to auto mechanics and hydraulics.
> 
> I am running 2 pumps, 4 dumps, and 3 batteries per pump.
> 
> ...




Let me guess you just got this car from Memphis TN off craigslsit the other week?


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## moorevisual (May 14, 2009)

looks like he gave up on this project

http://bham.craigslist.org/bar/5096208823.html


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## RiddinglowCR (Feb 26, 2008)

Dammmm... I wanted to know the outcome of that problem!


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

RiddinglowCR said:


> Dammmm... I wanted to know the outcome of that problem!


Agreed, I feel used.


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## RiddinglowCR (Feb 26, 2008)

Hydros said:


> Agreed, I feel used.


 Hell yeaa... all that work with all that explanation and no thx or a what happened, nothing! That's fucked up! :nosad:


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