# Step by step base/clear coat



## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

Lets say you have a typical ride with a stock paint job, that is aight, but it does show it’s age with a bit of sun fade, rock chips, and a couple dings here and there............

So your wanting a new paint job, here are the steps that will get you there, to help those who want to know, and those who already know, but do it deferent, can add there comments.....All ideas are welcome...


We don’t want to go to crazy, just something relatively easy, but can still get attention, like a base/clear bright pearl orange..

1...Start removing anything that can be removed that will not get painted, like the bumpers, emblems, chrome trim, lights, and stuff like that.

2...Wash your car.. Use a grease fighting dish soap like dawn

3... Block sand your whole car with 220 wet sand paper. Block sanding will not only keep your surface smooth and level, but will also provide tooth for the primer to come, and show you were the low spots are “dings”

4...After block sanding and finding your dings cuz they will be the only spots left shiny, use a marker or chalk and mark them by drawing a circle at least an inch around them.

5...Get a drill and attach one of those plastic grinding discs, and grind those spots down to metal. you can use a da sander too

6...Clean off the area, it’s important that it is free of dust and oil

5...Proper your filler and apply it to the area, then wait for it to cure.

6...After curing, block sand the body filler with 80 grit dry sand paper until it’s level with the rest of the body.

7...Clean off the area again, and check for pinholes in the filler. Also clean off the area were you have rock chips

8...Use a 2 part glazing potty to fill any pin holes in your body work, and the rock chips.

9...level out the glazing putty by lightly block sanding it with 220 wet sand paper.

10.. wash your car again

11..Roll your ride into your paint booth (or garage, shop, plastic enclosed carport or anywhere else you plan to paint it in)

12.. start masking off your windows, and anything ells you don’t want to paint that you couldn’t remove.

13..jack up the car and remove the wheels, and leave it on jack stands

14.. wipe down the whole car with a tack cloth to remove any dust

15..wipe down your car again with wax and grease cleaner, and let dry

16..as the cleaner is drying, start mixing up your high build primer, cuz we have some bodywork on the car it is always a good idea to cover it up in high build primer.
17..spray a spot pass over you body work first before spraying 2 to 3  coats of high build primer over the whole car, waiting 10 to 15 minutes between coats for it to flash.

18..After spraying your last coat, make sure you clean out your gun before doing anything else.

19..carefully remove all the masking on the car, and let it sit overnight.

20..roll out your ride and begin block sanding with 400 wet until it’s nice and smooth

21.. Open up your doors and remove any weather stripping, and plastic moldings, as well as your door panels, and anything ells in the doorjambs that you don‘t want to paint.

22.. wash your car again, and roll it back in the booth and mask

23. wipe down the car with a tack cloth followed by cleaning it with wax and grease cleaner.

24. Mix up your base, and spray at least 4 coats of your base, waiting 10 to 15 minutes for it to flash between coats.

25..Clean out your gun and mix up your clear

26..spray one tack coat of clear followed by 2 to 3 wet coats of clear. You won’t be able to tell when it flashes, so it’s a good idea to wait between 15 to 20 minutes between coats, or do the touch test.

THE TOUCH TEST....find a spot in the paint that will not bee seen when the car is finished, about 15 minutes after spraying your clear, touch this spot with your finger, if it feels sticky or tacky then your ready for the next coat, but if it stringy and some if it clings to your finger as you lift it, then you still need to wait.

27.. Clean out your gun

28..wait at least an hour before removing the masking, then let it sit over night

29. The next day, open up the doors and begin masking out the door jams. Mask off the whole car as well as anything that may get overspray.

30. Scuff up any over-spray that might have got on the jams threw the cracking in the door. 

31..clean the jams with a damp cloth, followed by wiping them with a tack cloth then clean with wax and grease cleaner

32.. Mix up your base, and spray at least 4 coats of your base, waiting 10 to 15 minutes for it to flash between coats.

33..Clean out your gun and mix up your clear

34..spray one tack coat of clear followed by only 1 wet 

35.. Clean out your gun

36..wait at least an hour before removing the masking, then let it sit over night

37.. the next day roll out your ride and let it “bake” in the sun for at least a day

38..Now your ready to cut and buff, start by block sanding all the orange peel, and any debris or bugs that may have gotten in your clear off with 1000 grit wet sand paper
39. Now lightly block sand again with 1500, followed by 2000 if desired

40. Wash the car, and towel dry

41 Start machine buffing with a medium cutting compound and a heavy whole pad

42 Now switch to a fin cutting compound and a fine whole pad or foam pad

43 buff again with swirl mark remover or machine polish with a fine whole pad or foam pad

43 wash the car, and towel dry

44 hand polish DO NOT WAX, APPLY A PURE POLISH ONLY

45 Put your car back together, and you are ready for a cruse :thumbsup:


Now i'm sure i left some details out, but it's to give you a good idea of what it takes, and to give others a chance to share there ideas as well


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

-- That is damn good info there Familia........ Now, if there was step by step pics to go with that .. I think it would have to be pinned down ...........



Maybe when I do my car this winter & wheni can figure out how to post these pics again...... i will try to bring one up in my avatar & then repost it up


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## Tuna_Sammich (Aug 27, 2003)

great post! someone should pin this.


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## big jose (Dec 4, 2002)

:thumbsup:


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

GREAT POST!!!

only way i differ, is i do jams first,,,,,its a LOT easier to mask off the jams from overspray from painting the car,,,than to mask off the whole CAR from overspray of the jams

and for "the touch test",,,i never touch anything on the car (visible or not),,,i touch a masked off area,,that has been painted (like a door handle or something)


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## PLANETGETLOW (Sep 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by BRAVO_@Sep 16 2004, 10:11 AM
> *GREAT POST!!!
> 
> only way i differ, is i do jams first,,,,,its a LOT easier to mask off the jams from overspray from painting the car,,,than to mask off the whole CAR from overspray of the jams
> ...


Fucking rockin topic....... Did I say "Rockin".... :ugh:

Anyways, I agree with this dude, we always spray the jambs first then move on!!


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Sep 16 2004, 01:08 PM
> *Fucking rockin topic....... Did I say "Rockin".... :ugh:
> 
> Anyways, I agree with this dude, we always spray the jambs first then move on!!
> [snapback]2222125[/snapback]​*



lol.......

Ya I do get that alot, but thats how I'v allways done it, remember I'm all self tought and doing the jams last is how I'v been doing it for years. It does work for me. 

Though on my next car, I'm going to do the jams first and see how that goes. If I find it easer then of course I'll change my rutien :thumbsup:

Keep the Great tips comming in


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

hey myfamilia, what do you use to block sand your jobs with? you use a hard block or a soft block that flexes?


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

It's those black hard rubber "flex" blocks 

Ya I know there not perfectly flat, but then again neather are most car pannels


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

cool thanx man ive painted a bunch of cars and never block sanded them. gonna repain mine soon and gonna block sand it this time so it dont look wavy


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## 816customshop (Sep 8, 2003)

great instructions , the only thing to add would be to blow the car down to remove dust from inside the cracks. wax and grease remover BEFORE you tack the ride . also wet down the floor as that keeps the dust down when youre spraying


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## nv300ex (Apr 5, 2004)

im glad this post is up.. i'd printed this baby out.... 
one question, if you paint in a plastic wrapped carport for example, i'd heard if you dont have ventilation you get bad overspray, how does one control this - i have a big big shop fan but i think that would just blow crap all around..


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 816customshop_@Sep 16 2004, 09:37 PM
> *great instructions , the only thing to add would be to blow the car down to remove dust from inside the cracks. wax and grease remover  BEFORE you tack the ride . also wet down the floor as that keeps the dust down when youre spraying
> [snapback]2223469[/snapback]​*


Hmmm....... Now I'v always used the wax/grease cleaner after the tack cloth, figuring that the tack cloth could leav some unwanted residue behind, in wich the cleaner will remove.........any more input on this would be great

blowing off the cracks is a great tip, as well as wetting down the flore :thumbsup:


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

> _Originally posted by nv300ex_@Sep 16 2004, 10:34 PM
> *im glad this post is up.. i'd printed this baby out....
> one question, if you paint in a plastic wrapped carport for example, i'd heard if you dont have ventilation you get bad overspray, how does one control this - i have a big big shop fan but i think that would just blow crap  all around..
> [snapback]2223524[/snapback]​*



Any big fan will work fine, but you have to use it as an exhust fan. With the fan facing out, blowing air from in side your both to the outside.


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## nv300ex (Apr 5, 2004)

ok i got it... thanks man..


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## 816customshop (Sep 8, 2003)

wiping with wax remover first removes the larger dirt so when you tack theres not as much clogging the rag up the sticky on the rag will not transfer as long as you dont press hard


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## sabre (May 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by MyFamiliaCC_@Sep 17 2004, 03:08 PM
> *Hmmm....... Now I'v always used the wax/grease cleaner after the tack cloth, figuring that the tack cloth could leav some unwanted residue behind, in wich the cleaner will remove.........any more input on this would be great
> 
> blowing off the cracks is a great tip, as well as wetting down the flore :thumbsup:
> [snapback]2223601[/snapback]​*


after the prewash then tack cloth useing the blue cloths - leaves no residue and picks up any lint or dust left behind  
I've never wet the floor for humidity(moisture) reasons just wash it down/vaccuum etc.. n' let it dry ..


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## sabre (May 22, 2003)

OO and with your body work spray a 50/50 thinned mix with your highbuild first a quik coat then ya full spot coat .. stops any chance of bridging the sand marks and shrinkin lata on ..


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## BUTTAFINGUZ (May 30, 2003)

good topic. You see what happend to my poor car in the avatar when i tried . at least i have an idea of the basic process now, thanks.


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

> _Originally posted by MyFamiliaCC_@Sep 17 2004, 07:08 AM
> *Hmmm....... Now I'v always used the wax/grease cleaner after the tack cloth, figuring that the tack cloth could leav some unwanted residue behind, in wich the cleaner will remove.........any more input on this would be great
> 
> blowing off the cracks is a great tip, as well as wetting down the flore :thumbsup:
> [snapback]2223601[/snapback]​*



i blow off the car the while wipping it down (wipping breaks up the dust, while the hose blows it off),,,i then tack rag the car,,,then degreese,,,(and when degreesing, one rag in one hand to wipe on wet,,another rag in the other hand to wipe dry


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

yes i blow it down WHILE wiping with the tack cloth......


and i never wet the florrs down either........

i never had a problem with dust and bugs in the paint either.........



just call me lucky :biggrin:


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## biggeazy-e (Feb 6, 2003)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Sep 17 2004, 05:15 PM
> *yes i blow it down WHILE wiping with the tack cloth......
> and i never wet the florrs down either........
> 
> ...


at the shop i work at, it's like everytime a car gets sprayed, its an invitation for bugs to come out... :angry:


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## 816customshop (Sep 8, 2003)

> *at the shop i work at, it's like everytime a car gets sprayed, its an invitation for bugs to come out...
> 
> *



i never knew there were so many bugs in the world until i painted a car


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## PLANETGETLOW (Sep 22, 2003)

Bump


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Sep 17 2004, 04:15 PM
> *yes i blow it down WHILE wiping with the tack cloth......
> and i never wet the florrs down either........
> 
> ...



Hi Lucky.


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 816customshop_@Sep 18 2004, 04:33 PM
> *i never knew there were so many bugs in the world until i painted a car
> [snapback]2227719[/snapback]​*



You would think the fumes would drive them away, but no, it seems to attract them instead :dunno:


Damn, I can't wait to get a real paint booth


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## johnny coconut (Mar 8, 2002)

> 19..carefully remove all the masking on the car, and let it sit overnight.
> 
> 
> Why remove the masking before sanding the primer, then remask? Is it because of the buildup of primer on masknig might connect to the paint on the body, then be hard to remove?
> ...


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## mindslikemine (Jul 1, 2004)

> _Originally posted by MyFamiliaCC_@Sep 16 2004, 11:08 PM
> *Hmmm....... Now I'v always used the wax/grease cleaner after the tack cloth, figuring that the tack cloth could leav some unwanted residue behind, in wich the cleaner will remove.........any more input on this would be great
> 
> blowing off the cracks is a great tip, as well as wetting down the flore :thumbsup:
> [snapback]2223601[/snapback]​*


I wax/grease remove then tack.. I dont know anyone that does it any other way, for one.. you realy should'nt just put wax n grease remover on and not take it back off.. I put it on and then wipe with a clean paper towel becuase I have to geta ll the residue that it brought to the surface OFF..then ofcourse whats remaining gets tacked off along with the little tiny lint hairs that came off my paper towel that I used to de-grease and dry it with


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

I don't use paper towls for that same reason that they leave lint behind....

I use finishing cloths.....

One to whipe on the cleaner, and one to whipe off

No lint, No residue, No dust


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## bunyan (Sep 28, 2004)

Wow,
You guys got me wanting to paint my 73 Continental Coupe now. I wonder if it really is that hard. 

bunyan


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## FtwKandyMan (Sep 23, 2004)

> _Originally posted by bunyan_@Oct 1 2004, 01:44 PM
> *Wow,
> You guys got me wanting to paint my 73 Continental Coupe now. I wonder if it really is that hard.
> 
> ...


Go at it and see, you have to start somewhere... :thumbsup:


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

> _Originally posted by usojohn_@Sep 30 2004, 11:35 AM
> *
> Why remove the masking before sanding the primer, then remask? Is it because of the buildup of primer on masknig might connect to the paint on the body, then be hard to remove?
> 
> ...



Yes that is one of the reasons, aslo if you leave the tape too long it could leave glue residue behind, wich is a bitch to clean, aslo It could come undone whyle you are spraying.......direct over spray over something that isn't ment to be sprayed, can become a problem

It isn't absalutly necesery cut and buff every paint job......If you got a daily driver or work car, a little orenge peel won't hurt........but for that wet look car shine..it's a must..........It isn't easy, but boy are the rezults worth it :thumbsup:


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## FtwKandyMan (Sep 23, 2004)

Preach on brother! :thumbsup:


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## bosshogglac (Oct 25, 2003)

Doors on or Doors off When I paint the jams?


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

doors on,but off would be easier.

the only thing I would add to his list is to make sure that the last time you blow the car off is with low pressure,and with all fans running.

kick those fans on and no telling what dust might show up that had settled when they were off.

i would also like to say that out of all the pain jobs I've seen, the no. 1 thing ruing them was a bad tape job.

and another thing to remember is with clears, a run is better than a dry spot,because you can always sand out the runs with the orange peel,but a dry spot will have to be resprayed if you attempt to sand the peel out.
and dont skimp on taking things off! its worth it taking door handles, trim,etc off rather than having to spray coat after coat of primer,color and clear over tape that gets slicker and more prone to runs after every coat.I've seen alot of runs start on tape and run onto the body


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## chato83 (Feb 15, 2003)

TTT that really helps


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## 64_impalas (Jun 13, 2003)

> _Originally posted by STREET SWEEPAZ_@Sep 15 2004, 10:05 PM
> *--  That is damn good info there Familia........ Now, if there was step by step pics to go with that .. I think it would have to be pinned down ...........
> Maybe when I do my car this winter & wheni can figure out how to post these pics again...... i will try to bring one up in my avatar & then repost it up
> [snapback]2218260[/snapback]​*


next car i do ill do some pics eh?? ill be in a few weeks


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## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

> _Originally posted by mindslikemine_@Sep 30 2004, 11:17 PM
> *I wax/grease remove then tack.. I dont know anyone that does it any other way, for one.. you realy should'nt just put wax n grease remover on and not take it back off.. I put it on and then wipe with a clean paper towel becuase I have to geta ll the residue that it brought to the surface OFF..then ofcourse whats remaining gets tacked off along with the little tiny lint hairs that came off my paper towel that I used to de-grease and dry it with
> [snapback]2259109[/snapback]​*



thats the way I do it, wax/grease remover using the blue paper towles and wipe it back down with a dry one after that then tacky it.


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)

ttt


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## MyFamiliaCC (Dec 5, 2003)




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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Sep 29 2004, 10:45 PM
> *Hi Lucky.
> [snapback]2255933[/snapback]​*



no longer lucky  i just sprayed a buick apollo and it has dirt in it.......but no bugs :biggrin:


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## Nasty (Aug 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by MyFamiliaCC_@Sep 16 2004, 10:08 PM
> *Hmmm....... Now I'v always used the wax/grease cleaner after the tack cloth, figuring that the tack cloth could leav some unwanted residue behind, in wich the cleaner will remove.........any more input on this would be great
> 
> blowing off the cracks is a great tip, as well as wetting down the flore :thumbsup:
> [snapback]2223601[/snapback]​*



i always tack'd it degreased it then tack'd it again just incase anything from the towel i degreased with was left on the surface. that and i was thought to tack before i clear. has any 1 heard of that? ive have done it and had no problems. but then i again i always sprayed in a spray bake booth


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

:thumbsup:


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## 3onthree (Feb 18, 2004)

this is an awesome fuckin topic, i've been looking for this info cuz im thinking about doing my caddy. and if i fuck up all i gotta do is start over right, not like anythings permanent.


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## THEREGAL (Dec 11, 2004)

is it worth the time to remove windows before spraying???


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by THEREGAL_@Dec 18 2004, 02:44 PM
> *is it worth the time to remove windows before spraying???
> [snapback]2519860[/snapback]​*


It depends on the car, and if they are in the way. If you are doing the door jams too, then it's almost a must to take out the windows.

It is always better to remove anything, that is removable


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## 3onthree (Feb 18, 2004)

what do you mean pinholes in your filler? filler is like bondo or something like that right?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

You could get traped small air bubbles as your mixing and spreading your fill.......After it's cured, and you sand it, those air bubbles will look like tiny pinholes

spot puddy or glazing puddy, or even a good high build primer will fill those up.


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## 64KyBelair (Dec 6, 2004)

can someone tell me what tack and wet coat means?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 64KyBelair_@Dec 20 2004, 02:21 AM
> *can someone tell me what tack and wet coat means?
> [snapback]2523779[/snapback]​*


Look here...... http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=147196


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## 64KyBelair (Dec 6, 2004)

word good lookin out pimpin


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 64KyBelair_@Dec 20 2004, 10:15 PM
> *word good lookin out pimpin
> [snapback]2526434[/snapback]​*


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## pfccrider (Dec 9, 2002)

what's a good filler to use and a good glazing 
:thumbsup:


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by pfccrider_@Feb 8 2005, 09:31 PM
> *what's a good filler to use and a good glazing
> :thumbsup:
> [snapback]2699292[/snapback]​*



----> EVERCOAT <---


Great stuff...........they got all kinds of fillers and glazing puddies too

This is what I use...









It's about the same price as normal "bondo", but at a very higher quality :thumbsup:

Evercoat also has other fillers with even better qualities (higher prices, but worth it)


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## fleezie84 (Dec 7, 2002)

another real good filler is RAGE. and for filling the pinholes the best thing i have found is evercoat metal glazeand one of those little plastic razor blades.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Rage is great, but it is also from evercoat :biggrin: ..............cost 3x more then there light wight filler though


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## unkut2003 (Jan 18, 2005)

Well I'm gettin ready to replace some rusty areas with sheet metal, then when I get done weldin' and grindin' I planned on going over it with filler. Is this the right way? I am attempting to sandblast the entire car to metal first....


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## 313Rider (Dec 8, 2002)

can we pin this topic


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## Texas Massacre (Jun 25, 2003)

One of the best topics I have ever seen on layitlow!!!


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## nv300ex (Apr 5, 2004)

in using filler over bare metal i'm using Evercoat.. its in a green gallon can . blue hardner, called ZGrip. its made for bare metals, aluminum...has ZNX7 in it for superior adhesion -some awesome stuff... i think anything by evercoat is just awesome-unless somebody can prove me - otherwise....


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## jackflat0021 (Mar 6, 2005)

thanks for the info man really helpful


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## 3onthree (Feb 18, 2004)

ttt


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## Foompla (Jul 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 3onthree_@May 7 2005, 06:00 PM
> *ttt
> [snapback]3109373[/snapback]​*


what he said


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## dctowingw8 (Dec 9, 2003)

NEVER WET SAND BODY FILLER OF BARE METAL THATS HOW RUST STARTS PLUS BODY FILLER IS PORUS LIKE YOUR SKIN JUST THINK OF A PIMPLE YOU GET THE IDEAL DRY BLOCK WITH 80 OR 180 JUST MAKE SURE YOU FEATHER OUT THE EDGES AROUND THE WORKED AREA WITH 180 :buttkick:


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## 3onthree (Feb 18, 2004)

> _Originally posted by dctowingw8_@May 20 2005, 11:48 PM
> *NEVER WET SAND BODY FILLER OF BARE METAL THATS HOW RUST STARTS PLUS BODY FILLER IS PORUS LIKE YOUR SKIN JUST THINK OF A PIMPLE YOU GET THE IDEAL  DRY BLOCK WITH 80 OR 180 JUST MAKE SURE YOU FEATHER OUT THE EDGES AROUND THE WORKED AREA WITH 180 :buttkick:
> [snapback]3165989[/snapback]​*


good tip


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## G2G_Al (Feb 16, 2005)

I'm getting ready to do my 68 Impala and my sons Regal. This is just the info I needed. So much to print, but worth it.....


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

ttt


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## MRA (Jun 29, 2003)

ttt


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## SCLA (Apr 12, 2003)

ttt


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## northwestG (Sep 22, 2003)

what do u guys use to practice with the air gun.. officially i have never sprayed anything with it.. i dont want to buy paint just to fuck it up....


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## Reverend Hearse (Jan 2, 2006)

get mistint paint , i get it here for 25 a gallon , good for a ground coat too , when you need to get the car an even color before painting


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## georgepapadapolis (Mar 1, 2006)

Helpful


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## 85CrownVictoria (Feb 9, 2007)

i posted on the wrong thread on the "how to" main section i meant to post on this one, im going to try to test this "how to" over a medium are on my pimpmobile, heck if i wanna learn i might as well risk it.
ok a couple question smart guys, what kind of high build primer do i ask for tomorrow when i go to sherwin williams?(just in case they ask me this)








do you guys think this color is decent?can u guys kinda identify it? im thinking of going more blue dark like an oriental maybe...
thanks guys u guys have been really helpful.


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## 85CrownVictoria (Feb 9, 2007)

oh yeah and what kind of clear do i ask for? thanks again guys.


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## AuggieStyle (Sep 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by northwestG_@May 6 2006, 01:42 PM~5381235
> *what do u guys use to practice with the air gun.. officially i have never sprayed anything with it.. i dont want to buy paint just to fuck it up....
> *


You can use water it is free and plenty full and you don't have to go far to get it. and it does a great job. Make sure gun is absolutely clean and practice on the car you are going to paint. You can make fan and air adjustments and you can get used to the weight of the gun full. Many people don't realize how heavy a gun can get towards the end of the paint job. Most paint/clear runs in a paint job occur due to fatigue, gun accidentally gets too close to painting surface. On your first job the gun will feel as if it weighs a ton after painting and clearing.


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## 85CrownVictoria (Feb 9, 2007)

> _Originally posted by AuggieStyle_@Feb 12 2007, 09:54 PM~7244986
> *You can use water it is free and plenty full and you don't have to go far to get it. and it does a great job. Make sure gun is absolutely clean and practice on the car you are going to paint. You can make fan and air adjustments and you can get used to the weight of the gun full. Many people don't realize how heavy a gun can get towards the end of the paint job. Most paint/clear runs in a paint job occur due to fatigue, gun accidentally gets too close to painting surface. On your first job the gun will feel as if it weighs a ton after painting and clearing.
> *


what kind of gun, hose size and how big is ur compressor?3-4 hp?
im going to buy a compressor for 70 bucs its a 2hp, is that an ok size for training, or should i get a 4-5 hp?


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## 85CrownVictoria (Feb 9, 2007)

another thing, what the heck is a block sander? basically a 24 inch "block" with sand paper on bottom? makes it a little easier than hand sanding with little ass sandpaper? ....


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

HP means nothing, its all about the CFM.


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## 85CrownVictoria (Feb 9, 2007)

ok, so what cfm should i look for since im training?
also i already ordered my acrylic lacquer primer from ebay brand dupont, i just need ur opinion theyre selling regular paint and paint WITH activator? :uh: then they got regular clear coat and clear coat with activator? :uh:


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## 85CrownVictoria (Feb 9, 2007)

to be on the safe side for the future a homeboy recoomended this one, http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....rtnumber=830241


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

OH BOY, LACQUER PRIMER IS CRAP!!! i call it cracker primer! you want to use a 2k eurathane primer for build/fill, and a epoxy primer for bare metal, most good basecoats dont require activator, they are just mixed with reducer(usually equal parts) all good clears are activator, and some are reduced as well.

You would be better off going to your local supplier and buying some products there to fool around/learn with, usually they will even have some mistints that they will give you free or dirt cheap, then all you will need to buy is reducer and clear/activator, and some primers.


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

and i say a minimum of 10 cfm, or your compressor will be running non stop and building up lots of moisture, be sure to get a good filter too.


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## schall1965 (Jun 4, 2007)

What kind of air pressure do you use if your spraying a metallic base coat?My gun is a hvlp which calls for 8 to 10 psi at the tip,i have a regulator on my gun but when i tried to spray i get stripes it seems to me that my paint is going on to wet. Thanks guys.


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)




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## ILUVMY82 (Jun 17, 2008)

HOW MANY P.S.I. IS RECOMENDED AT SPRAYING AT AND WAT IS THE MINIMUM AMOUNT OF GALLONS THAT I NEED IN A AIR COMPRESSOR


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## 70DELTA88 (Sep 2, 2008)

TTT


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## WESTUP702 (Jul 24, 2008)

yeah what the hell is a block sander....lol....what is this blocking a car off....


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## juiced86 (Aug 3, 2006)

> _Originally posted by MyFamiliaCC_@Sep 15 2004, 05:01 AM~2218120
> *Lets say you have a typical ride with a stock paint job, that  is aight, but it does show it’s age with a bit of sun fade, rock chips, and a couple dings here and there............
> 
> So your wanting a new paint job, here are the steps that will get you there, to help those who want to know, and those who already know, but do it deferent, can add there comments.....All ideas are welcome...
> ...


im gonna try to paint my frame and belly of my 64 but i have never ever painted anything with a paint gun!!! so you got any tips or should i know anything b-4 i start?????? like what psi should i spray it at???


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## Dolle (Oct 10, 2005)

> _Originally posted by juiced86_@Oct 21 2008, 07:16 PM~11933103
> *im gonna try to paint my frame and belly of my 64 but i have never ever painted anything with a paint gun!!! so you got any tips or should i know anything b-4 i start??????  like what psi should i spray it at???
> *


do you have a gravity feed gun or a siphon feed? let me know I'm not a pro by no means but i sprayed my frame and belly on my car. I'll help if you want me to


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## Canada (Feb 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by WESTUP702_@Oct 14 2008, 09:34 AM~11856595
> *yeah what the hell is a block sander....lol....what is this blocking a car off....
> *


ttt


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## edelmiro13 (Apr 15, 2007)

LBC ........I SEE YOUR GETTING STARTED :biggrin:


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## FPEREZII (Jan 29, 2008)

Great topic.


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

so wats a good size compressor to use CFM? HP? Gallons? Wats a good price and brand?


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

HOW do you prep the frame and underneath the body for paint?


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## SWITCH_RIDAH (Oct 26, 2004)

TTT


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## 65ragrider (Mar 9, 2007)

y is step 24 and 32 the same? somebody answer please.


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

because 24 is the outside of the car 32 is the jams.!!!!!!!


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## L-BOOGIE (Jul 19, 2006)




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## plank (Mar 10, 2006)




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## 94pimplac (Jul 29, 2007)

ttt


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## bay66imp (Jun 18, 2009)

good topic


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## 96lincoln (Apr 26, 2009)

:thumbsup:


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## Mr lowrider305 (Feb 17, 2007)

GOOD INFO


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## bigshod (Feb 11, 2006)




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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

bump


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## elspock84 (Feb 1, 2005)

ttt


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## TAT2DAN (Dec 6, 2008)

Ive painted a few motorcycle helmets and gas tanks and stuff but never a whole car. Would you guys recommend doing my first complete car in black? Its an 82 Cutty body is in very good shape. THANKS!


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

bump


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## shoresmokesalot760 (Feb 27, 2010)

29. The next day, open up the doors and begin masking out the door jams. Mask off the whole car as well as anything that may get overspray.

30. Scuff up any over-spray that might have got on the jams threw the cracking in the door. 

31..clean the jams with a damp cloth, followed by wiping them with a tack cloth then clean with wax and grease cleaner

32.. Mix up your base, and spray at least 4 coats of your base, waiting 10 to 15 minutes for it to flash between coats.

33..Clean out your gun and mix up your clear

34..spray one tack coat of clear followed by only 1 wet 

its better if u paint the jamb first and cut ins then put some soft edge or 6" paper. specialty if your going to do candys


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## shoresmokesalot760 (Feb 27, 2010)

20..roll out your ride and begin block sanding with 400 wet until it’s nice and smooth
now theres water born paint so 600-800 wet.


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## TAT2DAN (Dec 6, 2008)

> _Originally posted by TAT2DAN_@May 16 2011, 02:44 PM~20563618
> *Ive painted a few motorcycle helmets and gas tanks and stuff but never a whole car. Would you guys recommend doing my first complete car in black? Its an 82 Cutty body is in very good shape. THANKS!
> *


 :dunno: TTT


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## npazzin (Mar 19, 2010)

> _Originally posted by TAT2DAN_@May 16 2011, 01:44 PM~20563618
> *Ive painted a few motorcycle helmets and gas tanks and stuff but never a whole car. Would you guys recommend doing my first complete car in black? Its an 82 Cutty body is in very good shape. THANKS!
> *



in my opinion, black show every little fuckin flaw possible. so if that mofo aint laser straigt, DON'T PAINT IT BLACK!!!! white on the other hand hides a lot of shit


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## TAT2DAN (Dec 6, 2008)

> _Originally posted by npazzin_@May 19 2011, 02:54 PM~20586460
> *in my opinion, black show every little fuckin flaw possible. so if that mofo aint laser straigt, DON'T PAINT IT BLACK!!!! white on the other hand hides a lot of shit
> *


WERD :thumbsup: I think I'm gona try it anyway. It's pretty fucking straight!


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## gizmoscustoms (Sep 21, 2007)

uffin:


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## gizmoscustoms (Sep 21, 2007)




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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

Wat size tips for.primer,base,clear?


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## dgriego (Sep 7, 2011)

74chevy glasshouse said:


> Wat size tips for.primer,base,clear?


I use 1.5 for primer, 1.3 for base, and 1.4 for clear


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

TAT2DAN said:


> WERD :thumbsup: I think I'm gona try it anyway. It's pretty fucking straight!


Go for it homie my first full painted car was my towncar and i did it black


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## 26jd (Aug 2, 2009)

Great Topic


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## hwayne (Sep 18, 2012)

For a beginner if you really want it black then spray a couple coats of black on the car BUT expect to start block sanding as as soon as the black is totally dry.
This first coat of black will show you all the bad (low) spots. But for a good Black Car this is worth the time.


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## milian70 (Dec 17, 2009)

Good stuff... Quick question tho what's a good clear to spray with want a good finish any info peeps ??? Let me no thanks :thumbsup:


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