# engine stalls after high rpm driving for a short while. turns off n won't start.



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Ok. So I got one for you. On my 64 wagon I have a 350/350 out of a 78 camaro. HEI. With a rochester carb that has been professionally rebuilt. Car just about always starts up with just turn of key. 

If I drive it around town all week at 20-40 mph and not dog it much, it runs like a champ. Sounds great and cranks strong every time. 

Its when I jump on the fway for just a few seconds and push it past 60 when it starts to bog down and idle rough then dies off. Once off it won't turn on for nothing. It will crank strong for ever but acts like there is no fuel or its flooded. 

If I let it sit for a few I crank it and turns on for just a second then dies again. Its not after I wait a good long while then I'm off again driving no problem. 

One other thing to mention. When it shifts into 1st then second its a lil hesitant. On 3rd its a lot more of a delay. And 4th gear I don't think I've ever gotten it to go into.


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## dameon (Dec 1, 2011)

id say just swap out your carb and see if it still does the same issues just to rule it out.


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## 8t4mc (Jun 14, 2010)

the 350 tranny is just a 3 speed ..no fourth gear.

it sounds like you have a timing problem.. are you running advanced? when it gets hotter its harder to start??


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Carb was rebuilt and works fine up untill then. 

Timing is set pretty dead on. Idles perfect when it sits after its started. It was advanced a little and I recently retarded it some and its same. It does crank strong but won't turn on after have slammed the pedal. 

I don't think its because it gets hot because I drove it all last week to work but never at high speeds n it drove like a champ. I've even gon cruising in it for hours at a time and drives perfect. Its when you slam it for say a minute straight that everything fks up.


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## mrchavez (Oct 16, 2007)

damn my 62 does the same thing..after runnung 70 on highway after about five min stalls and dies like it doesnt have gas.. someone told me that i might have a hole on top of my gas tank causing the pump to go dry. ( because no vacuum). but i havent messed with it in a while so ..idk.. :dunno:


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

do you have a hot air tube?

When the engine stops, take off the air filter, and push/pull on the acceleration rod/cable and check to to see if the accelerator pump is working. If no, that is a huge clue that the engine is starving for fuel. 
Prove that there is a fuel problem, you could spray some carb cleaner into the carb and see if it starts right up.

checked the fuel filter to the carb, 
checked fuel pressure, 
check for any type of restrictions from the gas tank the carb.
When the engine stops, take off the air filter, and push/pull on the acceleration rod/cable and check to to see if the accelerator pump is working. If no, that is a huge clue that the engine is starving for fuel.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Not sure what's the hot air tube? The one going to the airfilter? Don't have nothing like that. It does however feel like it is starving for fuel. 

But why would it soon after start up and at lower speeds and idle drive around for miles with no problem?


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

slo said:


> Not sure what's the hot air tube? The one going to the airfilter? Don't have nothing like that. It does however feel like it is starving for fuel.
> 
> But why would it soon after start up and at lower speeds and idle drive around for miles with no problem?


I'd check both fuel filters, and if they are good, blow through a fuel line back up to the gas tank, have some listen for the bubbles. I don't recall how hard it is to blow back. Ask if you don't know how to check fuel filters


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## dameon (Dec 1, 2011)

some times the carb will start acting up and close that choke/butterfly starving out you car for air. what i do is use a tiny hose about 7 inches long and 1/4 inch or less thick on the top inside of the carb incase you carb closes out completly this will not let it starve for air. sounds stupid but carb do wierd shit


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Hydros said:


> I'd check both fuel filters, and if they are good, blow through a fuel line back up to the gas tank, have some listen for the bubbles. I don't recall how hard it is to blow back. Ask if you don't know how to check fuel filters


Filters are clear if there were Any obstructions I think there would be more issues while its running. Drove it last night and drove like a champ when street cruising for 2 hrs. No hesitation and strong take off at the light. Even burns rubber on 2nd when I slam it a little. 

So the whole time it perfroms excellent. Just not at gigh speeds constantly.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

dameon said:


> some times the carb will start acting up and close that choke/butterfly starving out you car for air. what i do is use a tiny hose about 7 inches long and 1/4 inch or less thick on the top inside of the carb incase you carb closes out completly this will not let it starve for air. sounds stupid but carb do wierd shit


Sounds like a possibility. How about the air fuel mix. Not sure its perfect. Also I had been told about the valve that goes to the transmission? That may also have something to do with the gears kicking in a lil late.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

you know, I just thought about a clogged cat.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Good thought. But I have all new exhaust only running glasspacks. 

The little valve deal on the carb is new so that does work. I guess. Also I did a test run last night and sure enough did it again. Cruised about 20 miles 35-45mph no prob. But few blocks from home I smash it and it begins to stall out. Then dies. Will crank right up and in some instances start right up but then seconds later die. 

If I drop some fuel in the carb it does start. And the carb seemed dry once it didn't start so I'm thinking lack of fuel somehow. 

I did mention all filters were good. But is it possible that if we have a dirty tank that some trash might get stired up and clog stuff up momentairily? 

If it were the fuel pump it would just never work again and I'd be done. So I'm narrowing it down to fuel problem. Also I'm not dedicating much time to this otherwise I'd have it figured out by now. Once I get time off work ill tear into those parts. Just looking for options so I don't waste time.


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## IMPALA863 (May 25, 2011)

the fuel line from the fuel pump on block to carb,is it steel braided,hardline or rubber?


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Its a metal hardline. Nothing pretty. Stock-ish. No bends or kinks in it. Then it goes into the cylindrical filter before the carb.


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## IMPALA863 (May 25, 2011)

slo said:


> Its a metal hardline. Nothing pretty. Stock-ish. No bends or kinks in it. Then it goes into the cylindrical filter before the carb.


is it completely hardline from pump to carb??


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Yes. Nothing new but not obstructed. As of few months ago. 

What gets me is how it will start up on the fly any day. No gas needed. Idles perfect. I do get A hint smell of exhaust but that's probably unrelated.


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

Can u t the line and put a fuel pressure gauge on it and watch for a drop in pressure?


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## IMPALA863 (May 25, 2011)

slo said:


> Yes. Nothing new but not obstructed. As of few months ago.
> 
> What gets me is how it will start up on the fly any day. No gas needed. Idles perfect. I do get A hint smell of exhaust but that's probably unrelated.


happin to me on my 63,,mine was steel braided,,was too close to block,,was getting to hot and causing it to vapor lock.. after a long driver or burn outs it would sputter n die out,hada let it cool down before restartin or it wouldnt restart,,,i changed that line with the regular rubber fuel lines and never happin again


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## orientalmontecarlo (Sep 17, 2007)

the fuel pump rod in the block could have worn out


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

pink63impala said:


> Can u t the line and put a fuel pressure gauge on it and watch for a drop in pressure?


Possibly. But chances are I won't see a change till gas it and dies. But might give this a try.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

IMPALA863 said:


> happin to me on my 63,,mine was steel braided,,was too close to block,,was getting to hot and causing it to vapor lock.. after a long driver or burn outs it would sputter n die out,hada let it cool down before restartin or it wouldnt restart,,,i changed that line with the regular rubber fuel lines and never happin again


Interesting. Didn't think of it getting vapor lock like that. Would insulating the line its self or re-routing it also resolve this.


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## IMPALA863 (May 25, 2011)

slo said:


> Interesting. Didn't think of it getting vapor lock like that. Would insulating the line its self or re-routing it also resolve this.


try moving it away from block as much as possible


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

IMPALA863 said:


> try moving it away from block as much as possible


hey, thats a good one, 

also seen a brake problem when another larger engine was swapped. 

you may be able to wrap the line with foil, or some type of heat shield, or maybe with that gas welding clothe.


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

Do u have a vented gas cap?


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## IMPALA863 (May 25, 2011)

Hydros said:


> hey, thats a good one,
> 
> also seen a brake problem when another larger engine was swapped.
> 
> _*you may be able to wrap the line with foil*_, or some type of heat shield, or maybe with that gas welding clothe.


not foil,,mine was a steel braided line basically the same with less metal,,it gets hot quicker and it holds the heat in,thats why it causes it to vapor lock


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

I'm sure its a vented cap. Original one. Says vented on it. That's why I originally dismissed the idea of vaopr lock. 

Have not tried anything yet but I soon will try mst of these suggestions.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

OK, so what kinda prize are you offering if we nail it for you?


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

Ha. Prize. I Probably will have to post something up for grabs by the time its all said n done.


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## mrchavez (Oct 16, 2007)




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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

My 64 use to do the same as well! 

Ended up replacing all the rubber lines even from the sending unit up to 1st steel line! And the fuel pump! 

Could be vapor lock! :dunno: :nicoderm:


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

817.TX. said:


> My 64 use to do the same as well!
> 
> Ended up replacing all the rubber lines even from the sending unit up to 1st steel line! And the fuel pump!
> 
> Could be vapor lock! :dunno: :nicoderm:


interesting in leaning more on this theory. ill attempt this weekends if weather permits.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

im changing the sendingn unit in the trunk cus the screen on mines fell off, (sign)

then ill change the fuel filter, bet its filthy because of that even tho its only weeks old....

ill post back my findings.


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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

What jew figure out?? :nicoderm:


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## rickschaf (Oct 18, 2008)

You may just have to adjust the accelerator pump on the carb, also check your choke settings!!


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

well i got it some what fixed cus the car runs great, it dont turn off no more but sure does sputter after i try to mash it quite a bit. i adjusted the fuel air mixture and found the spring begind the paper fuel filter was also all messed up so i cleared it all out and it cruiese fine.

Wont die anymore but does sputter a bit if say i gun it aty the light real hard. probably some more tweaking and adjusting here and there and it could be perfect.


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