# Tips On Hydro Install 1952 Chevy Bomb



## lowroder (May 23, 2012)

Hi Guys.. Im Not New To Installing Hydraulics But Have A Question On My 52 Chevy. Coupe
Looks To Be A Basic Set Up On Front..
Drill Hole Out For Cylinder Using Shock Mount Hole As A Guide...?
Cut Down Coil Or Get New ..?
Use Cups For Bomb Coils Or Mod Reg Cups..?
Basically Re enforce Upper Spring Mount In Chassis ( Recommended) Required Or Not?
Is This The Basics? Or Any Better Tips.?
Im Just Going 1 pump 2 Batts. 
1 Switch For Up/Down 
Rear Is Already Lowered By Blocks 
Thanks For Any Advice An Pics If You Have Will Be Cool..
Stay Low


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## tpimuncie (Jun 6, 2008)

http://youtu.be/7VDRyVfmvoU


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

That video looks a lot like Edmunds. 
If the 52 is the same as a 53-54, just cut the front holes and coils. I forget where to run the long hose. I didn't really think they were any different than other Chevys. Except the 64 type of bushing rods. 

I think 8" cylinders can put a strain on the suspension when topped off. Your old coils might be too weak, if cut too short the turns may even hit each other. I have always recommended to cut the coils just enough to be able to move your car, if the hydraulics/batteries gave out. In the 70s the stock coils worked fine, but now your coils have 62 years of use

We didn't have deep cuts back then, but did have sleeves, the sleeves made you cut the cylinders holes too wide. Most guys just used flat cups and donuts over the bottom caps. Bad combo back then. Today's deep cups are the way to go, IMO.

I am sure others have different advise.


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## tpimuncie (Jun 6, 2008)

Heres some pics on a 54 i did a few years back


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## tpimuncie (Jun 6, 2008)

Used mobility batteries small enough to fit in between cylinders on top of c channel


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## tpimuncie (Jun 6, 2008)

As far as i got traded car for a 59 apache.


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

the only problem are the springs , the stock springs get weak after been cut . so you need to find a better spring but the diameter is smaller than a regular coil. And the cups have to be smaller too. A regular coil doesn't fit in the spring perch.


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## lowroder (May 23, 2012)

Thanks guys...
back when I had a hydro shop I knew of bomb cups. We never built any old school bombs. Just 60's cars. Trucks and 80's an 9O's vehicles. Few fwd strut cars. An my car has new replacement coils from previous owner. So my coils are fairly new.
I've always used deep cups in front an rear especially for hopping. 
For street cars we just extended the standard cups bout 1" from pipe metal. 
From what I see it looks like just a basic set up upfront. Cut holes for cylinder an mount pump an battery in trunk as usual. 
Thanks guys


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## lowroder (May 23, 2012)

Another question
I have torque tube drive shaft.
any issues with that.?


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

you have to watch how low you go I think if you go down to the frame the drive line shoves the u joints into the trans . And you break the U joints. All you need is 6 inch cylinders for the front.


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## lowroder (May 23, 2012)

yea I always use 6" Cyl. Keeps The Steering From To Much Stress.
Thanks..For The Info n Tips.
Im Looking Into A Open Drive Line But As Of Now Im all stock With Original Rear An Trans With Torque Tube.


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

If you car was stock ( no hydros) I would leave it with the stock drive train. And depending what kinda wheels and if ur running skirts I would change it over to open. Its not really not hard.


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## lowroder (May 23, 2012)

currently stock with 3 '' blocks out rear an 2'' drop coils In front.
all stock driveline.
running 670-15 cokers.
might switch to 560-15 coker or run the 14'' 520's
ive see guys run deep dish on front an std rims on rear with skirts


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## tpimuncie (Jun 6, 2008)

Just buy these from me $800


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## tpimuncie (Jun 6, 2008)

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=271909228662&globalID=EBAY-US


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

I am basically going the same route with my 52. Does anyone have updated info, or is this pretty accurate? I was going to use 8" cylinders, do I need to use 6"? What springs do I need to use?


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Superfly9c1 said:


> I am basically going the same route with my 52. Does anyone have updated info, or is this pretty accurate? I was going to use 8" cylinders, do I need to use 6"? What springs do I need to use?


You can use your stock springs, but Edmund says they will sag later on.

On the cups, we used to be able to buy large or small cups, but I guess now days everyone uses the large cups.

The length of the coils need to be considered. Most times a 8" will work fine, just don't lock up too much.

BTW, you are asking about the front only?


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

I am only doing the front for now until I find a good 4 link for the back. The only one I found was the a Gambinos Kustoms tail stagger that cost over $900 but does come with 8" coil over cylinders


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

lowroder said:


> yea I always use 6" Cyl. Keeps The Steering From To Much Stress.
> Thanks..For The Info n Tips.
> Im Looking Into A Open Drive Line But As Of Now Im all stock With Original Rear An Trans With Torque Tube.


Yes that's it. The stress is caused by compressing the front coils, topped off, locked up, never drive around like that in an oldie. If you use 6" cylinders you don't need to worry too much (depending on the length of the coils) about over locking the cylinders and coils. Just listen for the pump to tell you are stressing the system/suspension anytime using 6" or 8".

Good thing about using 6" is that you don't need to worry if the cylinders stick up too high and rub against parts in the engine compartment.


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

What coils should I use? My installer recommends finding a set of import car springs the same size then cutting them. I'm thinking using 3" drop springs for my car and cutting a round iff


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

the coils are a certain size , I don't know the tonnage but Ford Currier springs are the same diameter . And I think Hoppo's sells the cups or you can have a set turned down. Re-enforce the lower arms cause they will want to sag over time. Use 6 inch cylinders.


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Will minicoils and minicups work?


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

no they will want to kick to the side cause the small OD.


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

My installer said he was going to make it a coil over setup with machined deep cups


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

Superfly9c1 said:


> My installer said he was going to make it a coil over setup with machined deep cups



don't do a coil over , because of the angle of the A arm the cylinder will tilt with lifting and lowering of the arm. The cylinder will rub even more on the X member cylinder hole. And wear out the cylinder wall....


Stay with coil under cause its more forgiving with the misalignment.


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

His solution was Powerball under the front cylinders. He thinks I won't have enough coil to ride coil under


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

My bottom A arm with powerballs under the cylinder


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Now I am waiting on 15' hoses. Has anyone ever used Continental hoses? I know they make good tires, so I assumed that they made good hydraulic hoses


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## ekserio (Jan 9, 2013)

Coil under is fine up front. hydroholics makes uniball mount for the cylinder hole too to avoid cylinder issues. I did some testing with coilover on mine. I do have a mustangII front end but you can see how much the cylinders move in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjYACj35Q84


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Put together and waiting on the hoses to come in


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Up and down


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

not hating bro but you see after a while the casing will start to grind , its like coil over in the rear and what happens to them....


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

He actually went with 12" cylinders and with the powerballs they don't scrub


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

unless your not getting a full lock up and lay they wont really rub much . but if you do lock and lay it will happen over time as the bottom A arm slants the cylinder does too and with the reverse cup on top that means it has to slant also. The reverse cup is pushing against the spring perch which is solid so the cup will have to tip with the slant cause there is no give there. That little slant will put pressure on the casing, as you drive at what ever height and the car starts to bounce it will cause friction in the same spot over and over again. 

This is something I know something about , as an installer Ive done my share of coil over front ends in mini trucks and front wheel drive cars ( which the concept is more or less the same ) plus I have a 41 and 50 chevy so I'm familiar with these front ends.

The only way I see to do a coil over and reduce friction caused by misalignment is to use that uniball as mentioned .


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## ekserio (Jan 9, 2013)

Innovation at its best. There's a solution for almost any problem these days. Hydroholics uniball upper mount will take care of any rubbing issues. They come in threaded or not.


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Question? Is uniball and threaded powerballs basically the same thing?


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

this is a power ball that fits over the cylinder casing so the cylinder can slant on top too with out and kind of binding and friction. So the cylinder will have two power balls now.


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## Superfly9c1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Pics


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