# body work question: pulling creased dents out of doors etc



## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)

I know dent pullers work on most dents on rides, including the use of body filler, but if there are dents that are creases on a car door for example how hard is that to pull or do I need to just replace things altogther. I hope someone will help me out with this question I'm a female tryin' to clean up my ride the best I can with what little $$ I have. I've done some bodywork before but never encountered really bad dents such as creases any input would be appreciated


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Good to see women gettin they hands dirty too. My women likes to help me on my ride whenever she's not doing house things. Good luck!


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

I don't know but it would be best to bang it back out from the inside. Pics of the dent would be help full


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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)

yea was gonna take pics pretty much my car came as is (body damage included) it's atleast great it's white in color hides alot but still sick of it lookin raggedy & times are hard right now wanted to see what I could do in my garage, I did alot of work on my cut minitruck learned alot from ex's who did body work & customizing just no hands on the big crease fixing ... I'll take some pics and post up & yea I would rather be messing with my car & in the garage than in the house myself lol ...


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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)

basically this is what I'm talking about,
View attachment 459957

creased dent on my driver passenger door -->
View attachment 459958

and then this bs on my front passenger door --->
View attachment 459959


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## 3StarsNSun (Dec 10, 2011)

*Dont know if you plan on spotting in/painting the affected areas your self or having someone else do it but here it goes*







1.If you have a hammer and dolly you could try to work this out by having the dolly on the outside and hammering from the inside of the door if possible following the hammer on dolly method., if not then if you know anyone with a stud gun or happen to have one then you can use that by grinding out the affected area and out a little onto good metal then pull the dent/crease out in the opposite orderof which it occured. You could even just straight up grind out the area(flapper disc or grinding wheel in something like 24-40Grit) like i mentioned and just slap some filler over it and block it out(40 grit first to work it close to where you want it then 80 grit to finish)







2.Same deal as the first







3.This you may actually be able to hammer and dolly out close to if it never happened then wet sand the area lightly with something like 1500 or 2000 and hand polish it out. If not then its the same deal as the first.

Sry if my explanations isn't that great, things like this are better to explain in person than words like this but if you want more clarification on anything just let me know and i can try to go further into it.


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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)




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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)




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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)




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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)

some of them, well the major ones. I don't what happened with my car to begin with it originally came from Texas I'm the 3rd owner on her but by the time I got her in my hands she has like golf ball sized dents/dings pretty much all over the body (again thankfully not fully visible due to the color) and the major dents also my front bumper valence has a tear in it lower part I'm thinkin' some fiberglass work? I just want to see if it's possible for me to attempt to pull some of these out or body work them


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## Dado (Nov 24, 2010)

Grind it with a roloc disk 40 grit then use a spitzinagel stud gun or the 220 plug in type if you have one available to you and just start pulling it out, make the pulls as close together as possible...its hard to see but they dont look too deep. After pulling probably get away with one coat of filler, block that down with 80 grit then a coat of glaze sanded with 180 and should be ready to prime. Try not to over pull the crease, if you pull it too high then you have to knock it back down...too much will streatch the metal..heat shrinking isnt really a beginner skill so try your best to avoid over working the panel


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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)

thanks guys ... http://www.layitlow.com/forums/81317-3starsnsun.html3StarsNSun, thanks for input on that and lacwood, yea, believe I know the heat shrinking isn't a "beginning" skill I've dealt with warped metal before helping shave doorhandles etc on minitrucks heat that metal up too much it's a wavy gravy mess. Yea my garage has a 220 (have my air compressor hooked up to it) 

I think I might start with one door but before I have to pull the $$$ together though to get white primer and if I go that route I might end up just having to pull off my moldings & prep & shooting my enitre car with it just to make it look uniform. Like I said I've bodyworked minitrucks (shaved doorhandleds, gas lids etc.) and fixed minor dents etc just never ran into the creased dents idk to me my roadmaster is a whole different animal than my minitruck.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

Yeah a stud gun would be your best bet. But try going to a rinky dink body shop and ask them to pull them out. You will have to find someone to do the body work to finish it but atleast you know the dents were gotten out the best they could before covered with filler.


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## northwestG (Sep 22, 2003)

The best way is pull at the lowest point with a stud gun and hammer the high spot down.BUT...if no stud gun...hammer softly the high spot down and try not to let the whole panel cave in...then bondo...u dont need to worry bout how thick ur bondo is but a high spot has to be hammerd down


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