# How to extend and reinforce Upper A-Arms



## doctahouse

*More helpful info added to page 8*

Most likely this has been posted before but just in case someone is interested, here is a set I did up.

*1.Drill out the old ball joint, or use an air chesil.*









*2.Cut the rear of the ear off. Try and keep the as straight and 90'd as possible.
Set your gap, these were 1/2". Tack weld in place.*









*3.Make templates out of poster board, trace out on steel with soap stone, cut them out, and grind them all. You will have to use your template as a guide to where you will have to bend the steel, so it will fit the inner countour.*









*4.I use a small piece of factory lip, that I cut off to keep my gap perfect.*









*5.Chop out the middle with a zip disc.*









*6.Buff all areas to be welded, so you get a soild foundation for your weld. Tack the top piece in place. Use clamps if you any gap. You want it to fit as tight as possible. Weld it all the way around and the back side. You will need to pound the bottom right around where the bump stop was, so it fits good.*









*7.Flip it over tack the ball joint plate in place.*









*8. Add you side plates in next, weld it up.









9.Add the piece that ties the sides to the ball joint plate, and weld it all up.









10.Drill out your all the ball joint holes. You can either leave the lip that goes all the way around, or remove it. Take a grinder and clean it up. I use the blending pads, the Walter brand. They have the sand paper on it, and plastic backer. Replace the bushings, apply your coating of choice and enjoy!!!







*


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## Guest

nice


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## Pepper

this topic has been posted many times on here.......and i never get sick of em!

nice work! :thumbsup:


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## TYTE9D

damn clean work!  thanks for posting, whats a zip disc by the way? :biggrin:


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## kustombuilder

> _Originally posted by TYTE95_@Feb 29 2008, 05:14 PM~10060215
> *damn clean work!  thanks for posting :biggrin:
> *


x2


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## CLOWNINWAYZ

uffin:


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## boricua619`

clean


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## doctahouse

Thanks for the compliments :biggrin: 





> _Originally posted by TYTE95_@Feb 29 2008, 05:14 PM~10060215
> *damn clean work!  thanks for posting, whats a zip disc by the way? :biggrin:
> *




A zip disc is a thin disc used for cutting metal only. DO NOT grind with them as they WILL EXPLODE!!!! The is size 3/64"thick.


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## AndrewH

great topic,like Pepper said, you cant have too many good how to fab topics!

I didnt catch the ball joint plate part though, do you just cut that plate to sit flat against the bottom or was there a gap?

and I'm guilty of being too lazy to switch grinders and try a quick knock down with a zip disk, and they will come to pieces! I feel brave with a full face shield n gloves,lol


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Feb 29 2008, 09:08 PM~10061683
> *great topic,like Pepper said, you cant have too many good how to fab topics!
> 
> I didnt catch the ball joint plate part though, do you just cut that plate to sit flat against the bottom or was there a gap?
> 
> and I'm guilty of being too lazy to switch grinders and try a quick knock down with a zip disk, and they will come to pieces! I feel brave with a full face shield n gloves,lol
> *



Thanks, maybe someone will learn a short cut or eaiser way of doing the fab work......instead of making a shit show out a set of arms, which is dangerous for everyone, and makes lowrider guys look like hacks.

The ball joint plate fits just on the inside of the arm. Fit as flat as possible. Take the time to grind it to fit, it will look better. Your bolts will be trying to close the gap if you don't fit it right. and don't worry about gap, you'll fill it in anyway.


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## doctahouse

*I forgot one picture. This is the piece that ties the sides to the balljoint piece.*


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## B Town Fernie

1/4 or 3/16


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## Final Fantacy L.A.

nice....


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## KAKALAK

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Feb 29 2008, 10:08 PM~10061683
> *great topic,like Pepper said, you cant have too many good how to fab topics!
> 
> I didnt catch the ball joint plate part though, do you just cut that plate to sit flat against the bottom or was there a gap?
> 
> and I'm guilty of being too lazy to switch grinders and try a quick knock down with a zip disk, and they will come to pieces! I feel brave with a full face shield n gloves,lol
> *


X2


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## hoppinlincoln

Mines were done the same way. I had em smoothed and chromed too.............


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## hoppinlincoln

And if anyone is interested, these are the lowers. Smoothed and chromed too.


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## cali rydah

nice work!!!


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by B Town Fernie_@Mar 1 2008, 11:14 AM~10064447
> *1/4 or 3/16
> *



I used 1/4 because that is what I had. You could use 3/16 as well, it would be eaiser to work with.


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## THUGGNASTY

Were they for the elco???? :0


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## doctahouse

No, I had built a set similiar for the elco last year.(the picture with the black arms is the elco ones) I built these for a friend who bought a caddy and the arms were hacked together.

I got some pics too of the re-done rear suspension. I built adjustable lowers and extended, dropped lower mounts, dropped upper mounts and extended uppers. It lays just as low as it did before but locks up huge!! Bottom of back bumper sits 10" off the ground dumped, and locked up sits at 40.5", looks crazy. Still have some finishing left to do though.










I got the Haneline 5 in 1 mounted in the dash, so now I have gauges. Just waiting for the snow to melt.


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## pmdogg

> _Originally posted by hoppinlincoln_@Mar 1 2008, 12:49 PM~10064642
> *And if anyone is interested, these are the lowers. Smoothed and chromed too.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> *


cadillac?
how much?


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## TYTE9D

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Feb 29 2008, 04:02 PM~10060489
> *A zip disc is a thin disc used for cutting metal only. DO NOT grind with them as they WILL EXPLODE!!!! The is size 3/64"thick.
> *


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## fesboogie

Nice work!!!


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## legacylac

price?shipping?location?


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## B_BORGERDING

Great topic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## gizmoscustoms

nice work


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## doctahouse

Thanks, I'll post more finished pictures tomorrow.


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## doctahouse

*Here are the finished arms in black.*


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## KAKALAK

> _Originally posted by Pepper_@Feb 29 2008, 04:00 PM~10059453
> *this topic has been posted many times on here.......and i never get sick of em!
> 
> nice work!  :thumbsup:
> *



x2


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## doctahouse




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## bigcadi

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: NICE WORK HOMIE!!!!!!


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## 29775

nice work


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## SERIOUS

Very nice work...wish my welds were that clean. I love how you plate the inside rather than the outside... :thumbsup:


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## WestTexas_lowlow

where you located homie and how much for a set of g-bodys


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Mar 29 2008, 01:08 PM~10283945
> *Very nice work...wish my welds were that clean. I love how you plate the inside rather than the outside... :thumbsup:
> *



Thanks, it's really not that much work to do the insides. Take the time and make a good templates, and that's really the key. On these I used .045 wire, and the argon/co2 mix gas.


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by WestTexas_lowlow_@Mar 29 2008, 01:14 PM~10283973
> *where you located homie and how much for a set of g-bodys
> *



I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. Shipping will be alot of money because of the weight. If you want a set of arms just like the above, but for a G-body, I would have to get another set of arms from pick-a-part and your looking at $350, not including shipping. 

Shipping I am guessing will be around the $40-$50 off the top of head, but don't hold me to that. I would charge you whatever the Canada Post charges.


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## copone cad

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Feb 29 2008, 01:19 AM~10056113
> *Most likely this has been posted before but just in case someone is interested, here is a set I did up.
> 
> 1.Drill out the old ball joint, or use an air chesil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.Cut the rear of the ear off. Try and keep the as straight and 90'd as possible.
> Set your gap, these were 1/2". Tack weld in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.Make templates out of poster board, trace out on steel with soap stone, cut them out, and grind them all. You will have to use your template as a guide to where you will have to bend the steel, so it will fit the inner countour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.I use a small piece of factory lip, that I cut off to keep my gap perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5.Chop out the middle with a zip disc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6.Buff all areas to be welded, so you get a soild foundation for your weld. Tack the top piece in place. Use clamps if you any gap. You want it to fit as tight as possible. Weld it all the way around and the back side. You will need to pound the bottom right around where the bump stop was, so it fits good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7.Flip it over tack the ball joint plate in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8. Add you side plates in next, weld it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 9.Add the piece that ties the sides to the ball joint plate, and weld it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10.Drill out your all the ball joint holes. You can either leave the lip that goes all the way around, or remove it. Take a grinder and clean it up. I use the blending pads, the Walter brand. They have the sand paper on it, and plastic backer. Replace the bushings, apply your coating of choice and enjoy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


*
? for you.on the top part by the bushing do you wrap the extra metal around or do you cut it off?*


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by copone cad_@Mar 29 2008, 08:10 PM~10286046
> *? for you.on the top part by the bushing do you wrap the extra metal around or do you cut it off?
> *



I have it so it wraps right around the bushing, when I am finished.

When I cut out the templates, it is one complete piece, but since I like to keep the bushings, and shaft in piece while welding, I cut to fit, then weld it up after.


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## PORTCITYCOWBOY

thats some damn nice work homie :thumbsup: 


also what do u use to cut the ball joint holes back out with?

im gonna be starting on my first set in a week, so i really appreciate topics like this


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## copone cad

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Mar 30 2008, 09:08 AM~10288570
> *I have it so it wraps right around the bushing, when I am finished.
> 
> When I cut out the templates, it is one complete piece, but since I like to keep the bushings, and shaft in piece while welding, I cut to fit, then weld it up after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


ok.your work looks real good.


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## copone cad

> _Originally posted by pmdogg_@Mar 1 2008, 10:27 PM~10067786
> *cadillac?
> how much?
> 
> *


ttt


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## SERIOUS

Don't take this the wrong way....But i'm gonna copy you :nicoderm:


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## copone cad

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Apr 4 2008, 09:41 PM~10338827
> *Don't take this the wrong way....But i'm gonna copy you  :nicoderm:
> *


x2


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by Bigg_E_@Mar 30 2008, 11:03 AM~10289097
> *thats some damn nice work homie :thumbsup:
> also what do u use to cut the ball joint holes back out with?
> 
> im gonna be starting on my first set in a week, so i really appreciate topics like this
> *



There is a few ways you can do it.

1. Hole saw ($)

2. I use a torch and use a cone stone attached to a 5" grinder.
Cut it slightly under sized, and clean it up with the stone or carbide die grinder bit.





> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Apr 4 2008, 09:41 PM~10338827
> *Don't take this the wrong way....But i'm gonna copy you  :nicoderm:
> *


Copy away. This way, you know the right way, and you can save yourself $$ by doing it right the first time. 

I do recommend that you keep the cross shaft attached until your done welding. That way it's not going to pull one way or another from the heat your adding.


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## copone cad

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Apr 5 2008, 04:27 PM~10342891
> *There is a few ways you can do it.
> 
> 1. Hole saw ($)
> 
> 2. I use a torch and use a cone stone attached to a 5" grinder.
> Cut it slightly under sized, and clean it up with the stone or carbide die grinder bit.
> Copy away. This way, you know the right way, and you can save yourself $$ by doing it right the first time.
> 
> I do recommend that you keep the cross shaft attached until your done welding. That way it's not going to pull one way or another from the heat your adding.
> *


ttt


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## doctahouse

One more note to add. You are also going to have to change the bolts for your ball joints to compensate for the 1/4 plate under the ball joint. 


*The new length should be 1.25"x1/4 grade 8 bolt, fine thread*


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## southside64

:thumbsup: can this work for pretty much any style upper a-arm?


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## southside64




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## Skim

> _Originally posted by southside64_@May 3 2008, 01:47 PM~10567243
> *:thumbsup: can this work for pretty much any style upper a-arm?
> *


good question :cheesy:


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## turbospirites

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Feb 29 2008, 12:19 AM~10056113
> *
> 4.I use a small piece of factory lip, that I cut off to keep my gap perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


few questions

1.what size of gap? 

2.does it have a lean outwards look?

#. have any pics of the car straight toward the bumper? :biggrin:


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## Juan de la kalle

nice!


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by southside64+May 3 2008, 01:47 PM~10567243-->
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbsup: can this work for pretty much any style upper a-arm?
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Yes, I would imagine. All it takes is a *Good* templates and your set.
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-turbospirites_@May 4 2008, 08:03 PM~10574087
> *few questions
> 
> 1.what size of gap?  You can go any size gap. I went with 1/2 on those.
> 
> 2.does it have a lean outwards look? Slightly not much though.
> 
> #. have any pics of the car straight toward the bumper?  :biggrin:
> *


 *This is what I have now, I can get more later.*

These are fully locked up in the front.
Don't have any dumped.


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## turbospirites

nice!


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## RIDIN-SLOW

very nice!!! :biggrin:


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## turbospirites

so many people asking this question bumping it up to top :biggrin:


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## Por313Vida

good reading


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## NY-BOSSMAN

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Mar 1 2008, 03:21 PM~10065008
> *No, I had built a set similiar for the elco last year.(the picture with the black arms is the elco ones) I built these for a friend who bought a caddy and the arms were hacked together.
> 
> I got some pics too of the re-done rear suspension. I built adjustable lowers and extended, dropped lower mounts, dropped upper mounts and extended uppers.  It lays just as low as it did before but locks up huge!! Bottom of back bumper sits 10" off the ground dumped, and locked up sits at 40.5", looks crazy. Still have some finishing left to do though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the Haneline 5 in 1 mounted in the dash, so now I have gauges. Just waiting for the snow to melt.
> *


nice thats what im in the process of doing,i need to stretch out my 24" teliscopics what you got 28"?


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## doctahouse

Here is the finished product.












These are the 22" Telescopic. Really, I am not a huge fan of them, but figured I would try them out. Space was not an issue, as it's in an Elco. I might change them out for the fat sticks, as I like my threes. I am worried about them buckling in the worst case.



I have found that I get quite a bit of vibration though. My pinion is good. Might have to get the driveshaft re-balanced again just to make sure it's on par. I think the spring my be screwing it up.


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## doctahouse

Here is a side view locked up.


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## NY-BOSSMAN

nice ,thanx for the pics they help alot

the elco is tite!


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## crucialjp

Great topic thanks :thumbsup:


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## jtheshowstoppper

any more pics doctahouse bringing this back from the dead


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## clownen

do you have any pics of the elco droped


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## 16474

Yeah that elco is tight!!! :biggrin:


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## Midwest Ridaz

need to show lowers done in stages too....


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## 559karlo

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@May 19 2008, 09:51 AM~10686475
> *Here is a side view locked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> *


do u have a pic laid out and are the lower arms longer then stock :biggrin:


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## doctahouse

Couple months late!!

This is laided out. Front uppers a arms have 1/2"extension. Caprice spindle, and full stack of MBQ 4 1/2 squished out. Lowers rear trailings are 20" center to center. The rear lower mounts were dropped 2" as well.


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## doctahouse

Sorry, lowers were dropped 3 1/4" NOT 2", just went out to measure.


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## TYTE9D




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## 81cutty




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## doctahouse

After a season of trial and error, here is what I can tell you.

First series BMH 22'' Telescopics didn't work out so great. I was really worried about breaking them pulling rolling big three's. I had leaks as well on the second shaft that kept pissing out below the poly's. Tried sealing it a number of times with no luck, and the brass bushing was screwed too.

I then installed 20'' BMH comp rams. They worked but at full lock had a bend in them so I had the 4130 shafts replaced with 4140 and still had a very slight wow in it. I would say go with fat sticks instead.

The slip shaft was too small for the 22'' Telescopics. Replacing the tranny seal was a habit. Whe the elco was dumped I had 2" sticking out of the tranny and when locked, I would use all the slip plus the 2'' stick out on the tranny. You would have to run a big slip say 9" or greater with as much lock as I was getting.

This winter I will be extending the lower arms the help keep the pinion at a better angle when pulling rolling three's.

Hope the advice helps.


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## THUGGNASTY

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Oct 7 2008, 07:05 PM~11806401
> *Couple months late!!
> 
> This is laided out. Front uppers a arms have 1/2"extension. Caprice spindle, and full stack of MBQ 4 1/2 squished out. Lowers rear trailings are 20" center to center. The rear lower mounts were dropped 2" as well.
> 
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> *



:cheesy:  :thumbsup: :wave:


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Oct 8 2008, 06:18 PM~11815834
> *After a season of trial and error, here is what I can tell you.
> 
> First series BMH 22'' Telescopics didn't work out so great. I was really worried about breaking them pulling rolling big three's. I had leaks as well on the second shaft that kept pissing out below the poly's. Tried sealing it a number of times with no luck, and the brass bushing was screwed too.
> 
> I then installed 20'' BMH comp rams. They worked but at full lock had a bend in them so I had the 4130 shafts replaced with 4140 and still had a very slight wow in it. I would say go with fat sticks instead.
> 
> The slip shaft was too small for the 22'' Telescopics. Replacing the tranny seal was a habit. Whe the elco was dumped I had 2" sticking out of the tranny and when locked, I would use all the slip plus the 2'' stick out on the tranny. You would have to run a big slip say 9" or greater with as much lock as I was getting.
> 
> This winter I will be extending the lower arms the help keep the pinion at a better angle when pulling rolling three's.
> 
> Hope the advice helps.
> *


hey instead of using a slip yoke driveline that u just weld into place, u may want to try the telescopic driveline. gives you much more extension that u may need but atleast its there incase u want to get a lil more nuts with the rear suspension


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Oct 8 2008, 11:43 PM~11819086
> *hey instead of using a slip yoke driveline that u just weld into place, u may want to try the telescopic driveline.  gives you much more extension that u may need but atleast its there incase u want to get a lil more nuts with the rear suspension
> *



The problem is finding the parts. Up here it's all about 4x4 and nothing compares to the slip that BM sells. Do you have any pics of telescopic driveline?


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## Midwest Ridaz

uffin:


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## lowdeville

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Oct 7 2008, 08:05 PM~11806401
> *Couple months late!!
> 
> This is laided out. Front uppers a arms have 1/2"extension. Caprice spindle, and full stack of MBQ 4 1/2 squished out. Lowers rear trailings are 20" center to center. The rear lower mounts were dropped 2" as well.
> 
> 
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> *


What area of AB you from???I never knew they even had A lowrider out there :0


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by THUGGNASTY+Oct 8 2008, 08:01 PM~11816839-->
> 
> 
> 
> :cheesy:    :thumbsup:  :wave:
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :biggrin: Still looking good!!
> 
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-lowdeville_@Oct 12 2008, 03:59 PM~11844122
> *What area of AB you from???I never knew they even had A lowrider out there :0
> *



Edmonton. We have about 20 juiced rides here in the city. :biggrin:


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## NY-BOSSMAN

:worship: :worship: :worship: very nice!


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by NY-BOSSMAN_@Oct 12 2008, 07:17 PM~11845066
> * :worship:  :worship:  :worship: very nice!
> *



Thanks! Just trial and error, but errors are expensive.


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## NY-BOSSMAN

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Oct 13 2008, 10:50 AM~11848146
> *Thanks! Just trial and error, but errors are expensive.
> 
> 
> *


good thing you ballin then huh? :biggrin:


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## Midwest Ridaz




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## triple X level

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Oct 9 2008, 04:19 AM~11819912
> *The problem is finding the parts. Up here it's all about 4x4 and nothing compares to the slip that BM sells. Do you have any pics of telescopic driveline?
> *



where in Canada are you located? Here in BC I was able to get a slip that was 9" long added to my drive line its identical to the BMH one just longer.


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by milkweed_@Oct 17 2008, 12:57 AM~11889760
> *where in Canada are you located?  Here in BC I was able to get a slip that was 9" long added to my drive line its identical to the BMH one just longer.
> *



Edmonton. I had the local driveline shop sourcing out one here but came up with nothing longer than the 7". What's the name of the shop in BC that had the 9"?


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## Midwest Ridaz




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## Midwest Ridaz

:biggrin:


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## edelmiro13

nice work thanks for the info


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## ROBERTO G

nice uppers

whens will we see the lowers? :biggrin:


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## edelmiro13

> _Originally posted by ROBERTO G_@Dec 8 2008, 10:04 PM~12373302
> *nice uppers
> 
> whens will we see the lowers?  :biggrin:
> *



x2 I was about to say the same :biggrin:


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by ROBERTO G_@Dec 8 2008, 08:04 PM~12373302
> *nice uppers
> 
> whens will we see the lowers?  :biggrin:
> *



If the people wanted a how to topic on how I would do the lowers, I'll take some pics and give full explanation on the next set I do.

Here is the only 3 pics I took of some G-body lowers I did. It will give an idea.


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## ROBERTO G

these kind of topics should be pinned


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## edelmiro13

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Dec 8 2008, 10:44 PM~12373758
> *If the people wanted a how to topic on how I would do the lowers, I'll take some pics and give full explanation on the next set I do.
> 
> Here is the only 3 pics I took of some G-body lowers I did. It will give an idea.
> 
> 
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Thanks help me out :biggrin:


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## edelmiro13

ARE THOSE LOWERS FOR A G-BODY???


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## 250/604

good shit docatahouse nice work on the arms and elco,i never saw this topic before,i love seein people get there grind on up here


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## 250/604

:biggrin:


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## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by edelmiro13+Dec 9 2008, 11:00 AM~12378920-->
> 
> 
> 
> ARE THOSE LOWERS FOR A G-BODY???
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-250/604_@Dec 9 2008, 12:24 PM~12379796
> *good shit docatahouse nice work on the arms and elco,i never saw this topic before,i love seein people get there grind on up here
> *



Thanks, just trying out here in Dirtyberta :biggrin:


----------



## Midwest Ridaz

:thumbsup:


----------



## All Out Customs




----------



## Midwest Ridaz




----------



## Midwest Ridaz




----------



## ROBERTO G

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Dec 8 2008, 09:44 PM~12373758
> *If the people wanted a how to topic on how I would do the lowers, I'll take some pics and give full explanation on the next set I do.
> 
> Here is the only 3 pics I took of some G-body lowers I did. It will give an idea.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> *


arent they supposed to have a spring pocket?


----------



## supercoolguy

:thumbsup:


----------



## triple X level

> _Originally posted by ROBERTO G_@Jan 3 2009, 03:35 PM~12594845
> *arent they supposed to have a spring pocket?
> *



look at the top picture real close it looks like he left the factory pocket in place


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by ROBERTO G_@Jan 3 2009, 04:35 PM~12594845
> *arent they supposed to have a spring pocket?
> *



Yes, factory pocket left in place. Even if the spring pushes it's way through, it's going to hit the 1/4" plate anyways.


----------



## mrratchet

I just did my uppers(not done) like this and now I'm on the lowers but 

should I hammer the metal to conform around the spring pocket?


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by mrratchet_@Jan 23 2009, 08:53 PM~12797745
> *I just did my uppers(not done) like this and now I'm on the lowers but
> 
> should I hammer the metal to conform around the spring pocket?
> *



^^^^^^^^^It will be very hard to do.^^^^^^^^ 


What I would suggest is weld the large "A" shaped piece first, then the 6" circle piece on the spring pocket. After that is done make a cardboard template joining the two together. It's about a 25" piece that you will need to go all the way around. The best piece to bend the metal around is a chunk of 6" pipe. That will give the general shape, it will sping open too. Then you can hammer and weld away.


----------



## wick3d 360

hey why do u put a ball joint plate does that help when u breake a ball joint? and do u have a pic from the botton of the a arm to see what it looks like with the ball joint installed


----------



## doctahouse

I don't have a pic, but the ball joint fits fine with no problem.

The reason I put the plate on the ball joint is because that plate also helps to tie the whole arm in together. The inner reinforcing can only go so far near the balljoint. That plate eliminates a weak spot so it will never bend.


----------



## doctahouse

TTT


----------



## west coast ridaz

what you put in the gap metal or straight weld after u plated in the inside


----------



## Latin Thug

> _Originally posted by wick3d 360+Jan 24 2009, 04:18 PM~12802970-->
> 
> 
> 
> hey why do u put a ball joint plate  does that help when u breake a ball joint? and do u have a pic from the botton of the a arm to see what it looks like with the ball joint installed
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-doctahouse_@Jan 24 2009, 05:01 PM~12803305
> *I don't have a pic, but the ball joint fits fine with no problem.
> 
> The reason I put the plate on the ball joint is because that plate also helps to tie the whole arm in together. The inner reinforcing can only go so far near the balljoint. That plate eliminates a weak spot so it will never bend.
> *



Trust me....putting the plate in is worth it.....you wont regrate it.

I have some Caddy arms on my Lincoln and just last week the knuckle went throw the arm leaving a nice size whole where the balljoint was. Oh....but the balljoint was still attached to the knuckle :uh:

Anyway to fix my cuz'n had to clean the hole, weld a new bottem plate and add the backplate on, and re do all the holes for the balljoint. It wasnt hard, but it was the easiest thing to clean up after


----------



## The Joker

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@May 19 2008, 12:51 PM~10686475
> *Here is a side view locked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Nice work, thats one tight ass ride! :thumbsup:


----------



## 86 Limited

I'm trying to fully lockup 18-20 inch rams in a 79 monte. should i fab up sum trailing arms or can i get away with the adjustables and drop mounts?


----------



## AndrewH

> _Originally posted by gangstaburban95_@Mar 7 2009, 09:17 AM~13208030
> *I'm trying to fully lockup 18-20 inch rams in a 79 monte. should i fab up sum trailing arms or can i get away with the adjustables and drop mounts?
> *



depends on how low you are sitting. if its a full stack of coils, then yes, you will ned to lengthen your arms to keep your lowers from going vertical


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by west coast ridaz+Mar 6 2009, 09:46 AM~13200481-->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what you put in the gap metal or straight weld after u plated in the inside
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I used metal that was trimmed from the lip. Just hammer, flatten it out and trim to fit. I wouldn't even try welding that gap without a filler piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally posted by The [email protected] 6 2009, 06:06 PM~13204270
> *Nice work, thats one tight ass ride! :thumbsup:
> *
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks, I've tried to bring it to the next level. I had a good foundation to work from. :biggrin:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-gangstaburban95_@Mar 7 2009, 08:17 AM~13208030
> *I'm trying to fully lockup 18-20 inch rams in a 79 monte. should i fab up sum trailing arms or can i get away with the adjustables and drop mounts?
> *




That's going to be a tight fit against your back window unless like AndrewH says, run a full stack. But it won't lay that's the downside.

I would say if you're good at fabbing and measuring, run the uppers to the frame just above the lower arm mounts. If you look at my pictures in this topic, you will see how I did brackets and arms. The way I did is just one of many different options and may not be what you're looking for.


----------



## AndrewH

doctahouse, i have a question you might be able to answer. I'm doing the caprice uppers for g-body, and I got arms off (I beleive) a 91 caprice

I thought the bushings would be the same size as g-body, but they are a little smaller.

So anyways I'm looking at buying new bushings, and there's a different part number for 80-90 and 91-96. I THOUGHT THEY WERE THE SAME ARMS!!!

any insite on why the bushings would be different or what i should order???


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Mar 7 2009, 03:41 PM~13210818
> *doctahouse, i have a question you might be able to answer. I'm doing the caprice uppers  for  g-body, and I got arms off (I beleive) a 91 caprice
> 
> I thought the bushings would be the same size as g-body, but they are a little smaller.
> 
> So anyways I'm looking at buying new bushings, and there's a different part number for 80-90 and 91-96. I THOUGHT THEY WERE THE SAME ARMS!!!
> 
> any insite on why the bushings would be different or what i should order???
> *



I am trying to remember what I used. I am sure that I ordered a poly kit for the g-body and pressed those in. I think I had to ream them out a little bit too.


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## doctahouse

I'll go check my old arms and get back at you with some measurements.


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## AndrewH

Well I had bushings for my s-10 arms (suppossed to be identical to cutlass,etc), and there was no way they will fit. the crossshafts are the same diameter,but the bushings are smaller in the caprice arms i got,by alot.the ID of the skinny end of the bushing shell is the same as the id of the holes in the arms.

I swear this thing will never get done with the crap i gotta go thru.. was suppossed to have the arms done tonight and havnt made a single cut yet :angry:


----------



## Big Worm

Nice Work homie :thumbsup:


----------



## weatmaster

TTT


----------



## BAGO

NICE WORK :thumbsup:


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Mar 7 2009, 04:24 PM~13211135
> *Well I had bushings for my s-10 arms (suppossed to be identical to cutlass,etc), and there was no way they will fit. the crossshafts are the same diameter,but the bushings are smaller  in the caprice arms i got,by alot.the ID of the skinny end of the bushing shell is the same as the id of the holes in the arms.
> 
> I swear this thing will never get done with the crap i gotta go thru.. was suppossed to have the arms done tonight and havnt made a single cut yet  :angry:
> *



Ok, the first stage, the one pressed in the arm is 1 15/32 O.D, the second stage is 1 17/32 O.D. The overall length is 1 25/32. 

The part number is NRG 3-3156G


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by Big Worm+Mar 7 2009, 10:51 PM~13213832-->
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Work homie  :thumbsup:
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-BAGO_@Mar 8 2009, 08:55 AM~13215633
> *NICE WORK  :thumbsup:
> *



Thanks, I appreciate the compliments :biggrin:


----------



## AndrewH

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Mar 8 2009, 11:19 AM~13215965
> *Ok, the first stage, the one pressed in the arm is 1 15/32 O.D, the second stage is 1 17/32 O.D. The overall length is 1 25/32.
> 
> The part number is NRG 3-3156G
> *


thanks for measuring.

best i can figure,s-10 bushings are different than g-body bushings, and 80-90 caprice bushings are different from 91-96 bushings.. I was told these were all the same!


this is wack, i can't order a complete set, as i have s-10 lowers, and 91 caprice uppers...


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Mar 8 2009, 10:44 AM~13216086
> *thanks for measuring.
> 
> best i can figure,s-10 bushings are different than g-body bushings, and 80-90 caprice bushings are different from 91-96 bushings.. I was told these were all the same!
> this is wack, i can't order a complete set, as i have s-10 lowers, and 91 caprice uppers...
> *



Is it an S-10 you're doing?


----------



## AndrewH

yep,then a set for a cutlass next. I just checked and the smaller bushings in the caprice arms use a LARGER diameter sleeve than s10/g-body,so i dont know if i even want to use those bushings on the g-body cross shaft..

and i need urethanes for the bottom arms, i doubt anyone will sell me only the lower bushings. 
:angry:


----------



## Big Worm

Bump


----------



## charles85




----------



## dirty_duece




----------



## All Out Customs

TTT For tech tips


----------



## Midwest Ridaz




----------



## CadilacSmiff

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Mar 29 2008, 11:05 AM~10283121
> *Here are the finished arms in black.
> 
> 
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> *


How far is it from the cross shaft to the top plate?


----------



## gizmoscustoms




----------



## RIVERSIDELOWRIDING

ID LIKE TO GET ME SUM OF THEM ARMS...SHIIIIT


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by RIVERSIDELOWRIDING_@Apr 27 2009, 03:04 PM~13705050
> *ID LIKE TO GET ME SUM OF THEM ARMS...SHIIIIT
> *




http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showuser=14232
Hit up^^^^, he might be intrested in making up a set for you.


----------



## CADDY92480

FOLLOW THIS STEPS AND YOU'LL END UP WITH A NICE SET OF A-ARMS... I DID AND LOOKING GOOOOOOD..... :biggrin: :thumbsup:


----------



## CadilacSmiff

TTT :thumbsup:


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by CADDY92480_@Apr 28 2009, 01:26 AM~13712692
> *FOLLOW THIS STEPS AND YOU'LL END UP WITH A NICE SET OF A-ARMS... I DID AND LOOKING GOOOOOOD..... :biggrin:  :thumbsup:
> *



That's what I like to hear!


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by CadilacSmiff_@Apr 26 2009, 08:26 PM~13696679
> *How far is it from the cross shaft to the top plate?
> *



Go no less than 3.25" from the inside of the cross shaft to the center of the curve.


----------



## CadilacSmiff

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Apr 28 2009, 10:27 PM~13722392
> *Go no less than 3.25" from the inside of the cross shaft to the center of the curve.
> *



thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## All Out Customs

TTT for good info


----------



## Renaul

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Feb 29 2008, 03:19 AM~10056113
> *Most likely this has been posted before but just in case someone is interested, here is a set I did up.
> 
> 1.Drill out the old ball joint, or use an air chesil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.Cut the rear of the ear off. Try and keep the as straight and 90'd as possible.
> Set your gap, these were 1/2". Tack weld in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3.Make templates out of poster board, trace out on steel with soap stone, cut them out, and grind them all. You will have to use your template as a guide to where you will have to bend the steel, so it will fit the inner countour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.I use a small piece of factory lip, that I cut off to keep my gap perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5.Chop out the middle with a zip disc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 6.Buff all areas to be welded, so you get a soild foundation for your weld. Tack the top piece in place. Use clamps if you any gap. You want it to fit as tight as possible. Weld it all the way around and the back side. You will need to pound the bottom right around where the bump stop was, so it fits good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7.Flip it over tack the ball joint plate in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8. Add you side plates in next, weld it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 9.Add the piece that ties the sides to the ball joint plate, and weld it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10.Drill out your all the ball joint holes. You can either leave the lip that goes all the way around, or remove it. Take a grinder and clean it up. I use the blending pads, the Walter brand. They have the sand paper on it, and plastic backer. Replace the bushings, apply your coating of choice and enjoy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


*
I would like for you to make me a pair for a full body fleetwood.... call me my number is below...*


----------



## 65chevyman

ttt


----------



## UNO408

good shit!!!! i like to see guys who take pride in their work and try to keep original lines


----------



## 408_Life

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Mar 29 2008, 09:52 AM~10283355
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Nice looking A arms :biggrin:


----------



## DanielDucati

bump for a bad ass topic.... :thumbsup:


----------



## gizmoscustoms




----------



## fuentez

Great topic & pics, this help me out alot got my a-arms looking clean! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by fuentez_@Feb 3 2011, 05:07 PM~19780019
> *Great topic & pics, this help me out alot got my a-arms looking clean!  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
> *


----------



## Boricua Customs




----------



## KAKALAK

:wow:


----------



## Boricua Customs

> _Originally posted by KAKALAK_@Feb 7 2011, 12:16 AM~19805511
> *:wow:
> *


 :0


----------



## Boricua Customs




----------



## gizmoscustoms




----------



## 85eldoCE

:0 :worship:


----------



## Boricua Customs

:thumbsup:


----------



## doctahouse

Previously posted in another one of my topics. 

Helping out a fellow Canadian with some arms. Pictures show how it's done. Strongest Arms I've seen out there. All done in 1/4".


----------



## doctahouse

All polished up by the owner.....
















in paint.


----------



## doctahouse

Here is a mini lower arms build up.


----------



## Boricua Customs

Nice work :thumbsup:


----------



## BIG STUART~GT

> _Originally posted by Boricua Customs_@Mar 10 2011, 12:37 PM~20059650
> *Nice work  :thumbsup:
> *


x2 between this thread and OUTHOPU's I built myself some nice control arms


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by Boricua Customs+Mar 10 2011, 12:37 PM~20059650-->
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work  :thumbsup:
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-Combat K9 Inc_@Mar 10 2011, 01:36 PM~20060032
> *x2 between this thread and OUTHOPU's I built myself some nice control arms
> *



Thanks guys


----------



## xxxxxPoor_Man

> _Originally posted by Combat K9 Inc_@Mar 10 2011, 03:36 PM~20060032
> *x2 between this thread and OUTHOPU's I built myself some nice control arms
> *


And they say you can't learn nothing on the interwebz.  :thumbsup: Topics like this are why nothing on this site should be purged. :biggrin:


----------



## OUTHOPU

Looking good. We definetly need more good how to topics on here. There is no excuse for the hack work people are still doing these days. It's not the 90's anymore.


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by Classic - Landau+Mar 10 2011, 02:51 PM~20060627-->
> 
> 
> 
> And they say you can't learn nothing on the interwebz.    :thumbsup: Topics like this are why nothing on this site should be purged.  :biggrin:
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe have some topic's pinned?
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-OUTHOPU_@Mar 10 2011, 05:01 PM~20061709
> *Looking good. We definetly need more good how to topics on here. There is no excuse for the hack work people are still doing these days. It's not the 90's anymore.
> *



I appreciate the compliment.... a future riddler award holder!!! Your workship is incredible to say the least.  


A problem I notcied is that people pick up "Lowrider" magazine and see how to extend arms, "ears". It's all the plates that all fit together that make these arms so strong. 

Why hack a set together? It will only bring the whole lowrider community down in the end if someone gets hurt or killed because of poor quality.


I'll be posting up an Impala arm build in the next couple days. :biggrin:


----------



## ALCATRAZ

:thumbsup:


----------



## Joe's Eighty Four

TTMFT!!!!


----------



## BIG STUART~GT

> _Originally posted by Classic - Landau_@Mar 10 2011, 02:51 PM~20060627
> *And they say you can't learn nothing on the interwebz.    :thumbsup: Topics like this are why nothing on this site should be purged.  :biggrin:
> *


  

I find you just have to weed through a lot of bullshit but there is lots of good info posted on this site. 2 years ago I had never picked up a welder in my life now I ve done 4 frames and all the info I got came from this site!!


----------



## gizmoscustoms

:fool2:


----------



## Boricua Customs

T
T 
T


----------



## low4life68lac

ttt


----------



## Ahhwataday

Nice work, glad you got the pics too.


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by Ahhwataday_@Mar 27 2011, 05:01 AM~20190940
> *Nice work, glad you got the pics too.
> *



Thanks man, every little bit helps :biggrin:


----------



## photoshop poser

i wana say first awesome thread! exactly what i was looking for, and second sick elco it looks mean as hell
-
i was wondering if you could give me an idea of what car models, years, of a-arms would be a good idea to practice on then would be common to sell if im satisfied, im a certified welder n know my shit there, but a-arms not so much


----------



## OUTHOPU

> _Originally posted by photoshop poser_@Mar 28 2011, 07:05 PM~20203568
> *i wana say first awesome thread! exactly what i was looking for, and second sick elco it looks mean as hell
> -
> i was wondering if you could give me an idea of what car models, years, of a-arms would be a good idea to practice on then would be common to sell if im satisfied, im a certified welder n know my shit there, but a-arms not so much
> *


78-87 G body
78-96 Caprice and Caddy's (rwd of course)

Those are the most readily available and easiest to sell since they fit lots of years, makes, and models.


----------



## photoshop poser

cool thanks for the info!


----------



## OUTHOPU

> _Originally posted by photoshop poser_@Mar 28 2011, 07:16 PM~20203663
> *cool thanks for the info!
> *


No problem. 

By the way I should have also stated that the all the G bodies use the same arms from 78-87. Likewise the Caprice and Caddys all share the same arms. So basically you will only have 2 different styles of arms to fit all those years and models. Buick roadmasters and fullsized Pontiacs also share the Caprice/Caddy arms so that gives even more options for tracking down cores.


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by photoshop poser_@Mar 28 2011, 06:05 PM~20203568
> *i wana say first awesome thread! exactly what i was looking for, and second sick elco it looks mean as hell
> -
> i was wondering if you could give me an idea of what car models, years, of a-arms would be a good idea to practice on then would be common to sell if im satisfied, im a certified welder n know my shit there, but a-arms not so much
> *




 


Unless you can get the arms cheap, it's hard to make $$ off 'A' arms. The time it takes to remove them, clean them up, drill out the ball joints, cut the material, weld it, then grind and polish them, it's alot of time and effort. 

Not trying to bust your hustle, just giving some honest advice.


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Mar 28 2011, 07:23 PM~20204189
> *No problem.
> 
> By the way I should have also stated that the all the G bodies use the same arms from 78-87. Likewise the Caprice and Caddys all share the same arms. So basically you will only have 2 different styles of arms to fit all those years and models. Buick roadmasters and fullsized Pontiacs also share the Caprice/Caddy arms so that gives even more options for tracking down cores.
> *




That's some good info for those looking


----------



## OUTHOPU

> _Originally posted by doctahouse+Mar 28 2011, 11:33 PM~20206246-->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you can get the arms cheap, it's hard to make $$ off 'A' arms. The time it takes to remove them, clean them up, drill out the ball joints, cut the material, weld it, then grind and polish them, it's alot of time and effort.
> 
> Not trying to bust your hustle, just giving some honest advice.
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thats exactly why I don't bother selling any either. I've tried to sell some extended and reinforced cast style Lincoln arms that not many people even mess with and still couldn't get shit for them.
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-doctahouse_@Mar 28 2011, 11:34 PM~20206265
> *That's some good info for those looking
> *


Ya, it's funny how many different GM cars use the same parts for the better part of 30 years.


----------



## bigt15

Sup Everyone. I have a 1995 Fleetwood Brougham with extended a arms that i need to be changed back to stock and chrome.( i pop a tire everyweek or two) Does anyone know where i can take my car to get new a arms, dipped in chrome and smoothed out, and installed. I live in Glendale CA. so am looking for a close location cuz am gana have to tow my car there. If anyone knows where i can get this done hit me up and give me an estimated price. Thanks.


----------



## Ahhwataday

> _Originally posted by doctahouse_@Mar 28 2011, 12:14 AM~20197311
> *Thanks man, every little bit helps  :biggrin:
> *



I got a car Id like to keep as many of the stock parts on as possible. Was my moms dads car. I wanna keep everything and beef it up. I think I can keep everything except the rear springs. Just gonna add steel  

If you get bored you gonna do awrite up on rear upper and lowers? :cheesy:


----------



## Boricua Customs

:thumbsup:


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by Ahhwataday_@Mar 29 2011, 06:46 PM~20212651
> *I got a car Id like to keep as many of the stock parts on as possible.  Was my moms dads car. I wanna keep everything and beef it up. I think I can keep everything except the rear springs.  Just gonna add steel
> 
> If you get bored you gonna do awrite up on rear upper and lowers?  :cheesy:
> *


Honestly, it's not worth it to build up a stock set of arms. Better off to just buy the pre made adjustable ones and not have to worry about breaking the ears off your rear end and or tearing up bushings.


----------



## doctahouse

> _Originally posted by Boricua Customs_@Apr 13 2011, 07:28 AM~20327041
> *:thumbsup:
> *



:biggrin:


----------



## Boricua Customs




----------



## WESTUP702

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Mar 28 2011, 07:12 PM~20203623
> *78-87 G body
> 78-96 Caprice and Caddy's (rwd of course)
> 
> Those are the most readily available and easiest to sell since they fit lots of years, makes, and models.
> *



WHAT WILL FIT A 98 SONOMA...? WILL G - BODY ARMS WORK..?..AND WHAT EXTENSION YOU RECOMMEND FOR DAILY DRIVING..?


----------



## TRUNKWORKS

NICE WORK BRO


----------



## muffin_man

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## gizmoscustoms

uffin:


----------



## Boricua Customs




----------



## Boricua Customs

:thumbsup:


----------



## LOCOS4LIFE(323)

not caddys but some impala A arms we did some ago!! 1 inch extension !


----------



## gizmoscustoms

mine are extended 1 1/2 inches. I just shim them back to near stock during the week and then take them off for the weekend. takes me around 10 minutes.


----------



## chtrone

> _Originally posted by LOCOS4LIFE(323)_@May 21 2011, 04:38 PM~20600565
> *not caddys but some impala A arms we did some ago!! 1 inch extension !
> 
> 
> 
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What r HAYDROS? :biggrin:


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## LOCOS4LIFE(323)

> _Originally posted by chtrone_@May 22 2011, 12:12 AM~20602760
> *What r HAYDROS? :biggrin:
> *


just a way to call hydraulics !!! thats all


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## doctahouse

TTT


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## general 83

Ttt for a very helpful thread since I'm going to extend mine sometime this week


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## milian70

Whats the best way to extend a arms???? Had some help but he didnt do the m rite so ima do them over. These would be impala top a arms thanks for any info


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## Payazo.Funk

:thumbsup: great topic and detlailed instructions! looking to juice my 68 caprice (was gonna go with airbags but came up on a great deal!) and im definately a newby to this!


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## doctahouse

Payazo.Funk said:


> :thumbsup: great topic and detlailed instructions! looking to juice my 68 caprice (was gonna go with airbags but came up on a great deal!) and im definately a newby to this!



Im glad the topic is of some help


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## Payazo.Funk

doctahouse said:


> Im glad the topic is of some help


 hell yeah bro! i got 18'' telescopic cylinders and im wondering what kind of problems im looking at if i end up putting those into my 68. i know ill have to extend my ?trailing? arms how would i go about doing that? what kind of mods will i have to do to the drive line? will i have to swap it out all togethr? nice el camino by the wayi would love to be able to do a :worship:mean 3 wheel:worship: like that in my 68!! pictures would be great!


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## DIPN714

IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT


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## Big Roach Hydros

:thumbsup:


DIPN714 said:


> IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT


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## doctahouse

DIPN714 said:


> IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT



You'll break the cross shafts?


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## WEST COAST HOPPER

DIPN714 said:


> IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT


:roflmao:


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## Boricua Customs

T
T
T


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## Wizzard

ttt


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## Chany

can you put a picture of the bottom of the a-arm when its painted please


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## WUTITDU




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## flip236

ANY ONE SELLING LOWER CONTROL ARMS CHROMED AND REINFORCED ALREADY?? G BODY


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## MinieMe209

flip236 said:


> ANY ONE SELLING LOWER CONTROL ARMS CHROMED AND REINFORCED ALREADY?? G BODY


I got some chrome molded uppers! 2inch extend. .


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## Don Pedro

DIPN714 said:


> IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT




:thumbsup:_ WoW,,i've seen some upper and lower control arms fail due to some shitty ass work! You can polish up a teard but it's still a piece of shit!_


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## BrownAzt3ka

Don Pedro said:


> :thumbsup:_ WoW,,i've seen some upper and lower control arms fail due to some shitty ass work! You can polish up a teard but it's still a piece of shit!_


Just chrome plate them... it'd look good.. who cares if it breaks.... :happysad:


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## Don Pedro

BrownAzt3ka said:


> Just chrome plate them... it'd look good.. who cares if it breaks.... :happysad:[/QUO
> 
> :roflmao:


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## doctahouse

Don Pedro said:


> :thumbsup:_ WoW,,i've seen some upper and lower control arms fail due to some shitty ass work! You can polish up a teard but it's still a piece of shit!_



I think Big Al missed the step by step of this topic. As the pictures show, the ears are cut off and internally re-inforced with either 3/16 or 1/4" plate. The ears are also wrapped around with plate to stop any tearing the bushing may cause.


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## S10lifted

DIPN714 said:


> IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT


:scrutinize: I've built many arms for hoppers and not once had an arm break....and I extend all of them at the ears. Guess I better offer a safety recall since they're all gonna break...


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## LowIndyd

S10lifted said:


> :scrutinize: I've built many arms for hoppers and not once had an arm break....and I extend all of them at the ears. Guess I better offer a safety recall since they're all gonna break...


:roflmao:


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## edelmiro13

S10lifted said:


> :scrutinize: I've built many arms for hoppers and not once had an arm break....and I extend all of them at the ears. Guess I better offer a safety recall since they're all gonna break...


Not saying you haven't but do you have pics of these hoppers you speak of ???


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## S10lifted

edelmiro13 said:


> Not saying you haven't but do you have pics of these hoppers you speak of ???


I do actually but I'm on my phone and they are on my computer. I'm sure I have a few sent via text so I'll look later and see


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## regallowlow187

sounds bout ghey :thumbsdown:



DIPN714 said:


> IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT


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## BrownAzt3ka

S10lifted said:


> :scrutinize: I've built many arms for hoppers and not once had an arm break....and I extend all of them at the ears. Guess I better offer a safety recall since they're all gonna break...


:thumbsup:


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## Don Pedro

DIPN714 said:


> IF U EXTEND FROM WHERE DA BUSHING ARE INSTEAD OF IN DA MIDDLE OF THE ARMS U WILL BREAK THE BARS THAT HOLD THEM ON IF UR HOPPING FOR BIG INCHES;;BIG AL SAID IT




_--Caution excessive use of Soul Glo can lead to premature memory loss and delusions of grandeur-- _


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## BrownAzt3ka

Don Pedro said:


> _--Caution excessive use of Soul Glo can lead to premature memory loss and delusions of grandeur-- _


:roflmao:


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## edelmiro13

S10lifted said:


> I do actually but I'm on my phone and they are on my computer. I'm sure I have a few sent via text so I'll look later and see


Those are some great pics ...lol


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## S10lifted

edelmiro13 said:


> Those are some great pics ...lol


If you had to use my junk ass phone you would understand why posting the pics aren't exactly a priority...especially when I have nothing to prove


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## edelmiro13

S10lifted said:


> If you had to use my junk ass phone you would understand why posting the pics aren't exactly a priority...especially when I have nothing to prove


Calm down you was the one that said you was gonna post pics.... And it's all good I wasn't looking to buy anything anyway just wanted to see the hoppers you said


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## S10lifted

edelmiro13 said:


> Calm down you was the one that said you was gonna post pics.... And it's all good I wasn't looking to buy anything anyway just wanted to see the hoppers you said


I know bro...It's all good


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## poppa68_KI_4life

thanks for the info


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## jmedina122579

nice job got a ? I'm trying to weld power balls but don't know how far apart do i weld them and also what size metal you used under the differential..


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## manu samoa

To the top for a good topic


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## New2theGame

TTT


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## Elco

TTT


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## caprice on dz

gotta question, I have recently cut my 95 caprice daily driver, still has stock arms right now. Should I go with 1/2" or 1" extension? As I said its a daily seeing a minimum of 300 miles a week, Im not looking to bulldog, I ususally drive with the front around stock height to an inch or two higher. My biggest pet peive is the way the top sucks in when locked up. Right now I am running stock coils in the front but will be swapping out for 2 tons when $$ is right, do I need to plate the lowers? No plans to hop just a simple cruiser.


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## 352cutty86

caprice on dz said:


> gotta question, I have recently cut my 95 caprice daily driver, still has stock arms right now. Should I go with 1/2" or 1" extension? As I said its a daily seeing a minimum of 300 miles a week, Im not looking to bulldog, I ususally drive with the front around stock height to an inch or two higher. My biggest pet peive is the way the top sucks in when locked up. Right now I am running stock coils in the front but will be swapping out for 2 tons when $$ is right, do I need to plate the lowers? No plans to hop just a simple cruiser.


Go with a 3/4 extension it's will place u at a very happy middle. It's not to aggressive.. U don't need to plate the lowers for a lay and play set up that ur looking for. I would also try running 3tons in the front


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## caprice on dz

352cutty86 said:


> Go with a 3/4 extension it's will place u at a very happy middle. It's not to aggressive.. U don't need to plate the lowers for a lay and play set up that ur looking for. I would also try running 3tons in the front


I had brand new 3 tons in there but they were too stiff for me, I was catching inches and wasn't even on the switch


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## Texas_82_Grand Prix

doctahouse said:


> Sorry, lowers were dropped 3 1/4" NOT 2", just went out to measure.


Nice lock up. How much did you extended both lower and upper trailing arms and how close did you positioned lower and upper mounts cause I like the high lock up and how it lowers down just right without everything getting pushed forward or back


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## KAKALAK

352cutty86 said:


> Go with a 3/4 extension it's will place u at a very happy middle. It's not to aggressive.. U don't need to plate the lowers for a lay and play set up that ur looking for. I would also try running 3tons in the front


Id go 1" and just shim them back if needed


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## doctahouse

Texas_82_Grand Prix said:


> Nice lock up. How much did you extended both lower and upper trailing arms and how close did you positioned lower and upper mounts cause I like the high lock up and how it lowers down just right without everything getting pushed forward or back


Honestly, I can't recall the length. I kept the rear end in the factory position and measured the distance from bolt hole to bolt hole for the lowers. The upper mounts where checked with a straight edge from the ears on the pumpkin to the frame. It's tricky to get it all in the right position. The uppers length were dialed in by checking the pinion angle throughout the full range of lift and lowering. There is some adjustment to the rod ends to keep it all square. It's a trial and error and best to go longer on the uppers and cut them down than to have them too short. Tack weld first, then weld out if it all works.


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## Hydros

ttt


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