# <<<<<SPLIT-BANK>>>>>



## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

here is a little diagram i drew up for everyone who wanted to know how to run high voltages without burning up solenoids. you can run how ever many batteries after the solenoids you want. this setup will send 36v to you back pump and 72v to you front pump.


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2007)

:thumbsup: 
good useful info!


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## scr8pin (Jun 30, 2006)

Sweet this should clear it all up


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## true rider (Oct 22, 2003)

bin doing that for a while shhh givin secreats huh.you left one thing out :biggrin:


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by true rider_@Mar 3 2007, 10:58 AM~7396262
> *bin doing that for a while shhh givin secreats huh.you left one thing out :biggrin:
> *


oh yea whats that? :dunno:


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## chet milner (Feb 25, 2007)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 3 2007, 08:29 AM~7396173
> *here is a little diagram i drew up for everyone who wanted to know how to run high voltages without burning up solenoids.  you can run how ever many batteries after the solenoids you want.  this setup will send 36v to you back pump and 72v to you front pump.
> 
> 
> ...


thnx bro i was asking about this in my help topic! 








this what i came up with to have noids before both pumps. is this safer or it does not matter? will this way burn up my noids to the front pump? i'm installing today.


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## scr8pin (Jun 30, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chet milner_@Mar 3 2007, 12:42 PM~7396402
> *thnx bro i was asking about this in my help topic!
> 
> 
> ...


Thats a whole lot harder on those front noids. I like superdodge2196's way. :biggrin:


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## chet milner (Feb 25, 2007)

ok i think i'll try his way for a couple weeks and see how i like it!


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

this is nothing new, just a better way. the most i would ever run without splitting the bank is 48v with three noids.


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chet milner_@Mar 3 2007, 11:42 AM~7396402
> *thnx bro i was asking about this in my help topic!
> 
> 
> ...


run it just the way in my diagram. your back pump will run forever on 36v and its still quick. there is no need to run the back at 48v unless your running one bank of four batteries for the whole car.


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## silver64 (Dec 18, 2005)

if you dont understand it dont try it.


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

so basically youre regulating its ground and not positive connections. less voltage through the noids but same amount of current flow. looks good :biggrin:


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## OUTLAW85 (Aug 21, 2005)

were does that power wire connect 2 for the rear bank


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## Still Hated (May 15, 2005)

Now we got ya.... only one question??? Your noids are mounted to your rack along with everything else right....nothing seperating the noids base from the steel. Thanks for the diagram :biggrin:


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## razor (Jul 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 3 2007, 02:50 PM~7397322
> *this is nothing new, just a better way.  the most i would ever run without splitting the bank is 48v with three noids.
> *


your diagram looks really good i'l have to try it on the nexed car i buid...but just for the record my old lac i sol last year had six batt's in the trunk 36v to the rear 72 to the front with six noids(accurate) ......and i built it 3 years a go same noids if you dont believe me ask allbuissnas on this fourum he ownes the car now...but your way is cool i really like,it does make sense and had i known this 3 years a go i wuld have done it just not to buy 3 more noids for the rear cuase the kit only came wiyh 6 like usuall.


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by lscrider_@Mar 3 2007, 03:47 PM~7397628
> *were does that power wire connect 2 for the rear bank
> *



there is no rear bank, its one bank of batteries. its just split after the first three. the power runs to both sets of solenoids so the back sees 36v and the front sees 72v. basically the power is connected straight to the pump for the front and the noids are used as a circut breaker. when you hit the switch the noids let the current flow through to the rest of the batteries.


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Weto305_@Mar 3 2007, 04:37 PM~7397784
> *Now we got ya.... only one question??? Your noids are mounted to your rack along with everything else right....nothing seperating the noids base from the steel. Thanks for the diagram :biggrin:
> *


yes noids are mounted as usual, straight to the bare metal rack.


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## 82 REGAL (Sep 29, 2001)

One thing left out. When running your batts this way disconnect the cable from the last battery to the pump at the batt. before charging. Or else your pump will take off on you when you turn on the charger


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 82 REGAL_@Mar 3 2007, 05:58 PM~7398255
> *One thing left out. When running your batts this way disconnect the cable from the last battery to the pump at the batt. before charging. Or else your pump will take off on you when you turn on the charger
> *


thats never happened to me before? the ground should be disconnected if you charging your batteries, but even with it connected it shouldn't happen. i have my setup wired exatly like the diagram, it works flawles.


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## LacN_Thru (Jun 22, 2004)

i got a battery related question, what would be the best way to run 60volts to the front and 36-48(doesn't really matter to me) to the back, using 10 batteries, with 4 on each side, and 2 in the front of the trunk (looks like a U). i read on here that you could run 2 batteries just for noids and power, could i run 5 to the front, 3 to the back and 2 for noids? any diagrams would be great, let me know.


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by LacN_Thru_@Mar 3 2007, 06:43 PM~7399556
> *i got a battery related question, what would be the best way to run 60volts to the front and 36-48(doesn't really matter to me) to the back, using 10 batteries, with 4 on each side, and 2 in the front of the trunk (looks like a U). i read on here that you could run 2 batteries just for noids and power, could i run 5 to the front, 3 to the back and 2 for noids? any diagrams would be great, let me know.
> *


 why not just run 8 batts then??? makes more sense, 5 to the nose 3 to the rear. or else you will be running a battery or 2 in parallel.


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LacN_Thru_@Mar 3 2007, 09:43 PM~7399556
> *i got a battery related question, what would be the best way to run 60volts to the front and 36-48(doesn't really matter to me) to the back, using 10 batteries, with 4 on each side, and 2 in the front of the trunk (looks like a U). i read on here that you could run 2 batteries just for noids and power, could i run 5 to the front, 3 to the back and 2 for noids? any diagrams would be great, let me know.
> *


why would you want ten batteries? how many pumps are you running?


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## BIG RED (Dec 6, 2005)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 3 2007, 09:29 AM~7396173
> *here is a little diagram i drew up for everyone who wanted to know how to run high voltages without burning up solenoids.  you can run how ever many batteries after the solenoids you want.  this setup will send 36v to you back pump and 72v to you front pump.
> 
> 
> ...



I still not get how this works.How does the front pump not get power all the time as there is not solenoid between the power and the pump to act as the switch for power to the pump.

So what I am saying is how can it be hooked up right to the positive of the batt and not be on?

Hiow are the solenoids wired up??


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## maniak2005 (Mar 13, 2005)

caprice to understand better take of a batt wire at 36v and hit the switch. nothing will happen besides the noid click, cuz the power dosen't have a complete loop. the noids r stoppin it.


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by CapriceRoller_@Mar 4 2007, 05:45 PM~7404870
> *I still not get how this works.How does the front pump not get power all the time as there is not solenoid between the power and the pump to act as the switch for power to the pump.
> 
> So what I am saying is how can it be hooked up right to the positive of the batt and not be on?
> ...


the front pump doesn't get power cause the solenoids stop the flow after the third battery. the solenoids are wired up as usual for a 36v, one bank set up. just instead of running the power to the pump for the front you run it back into the rest of the batteries, then to the pump. the front pump will see power from all the batteries, while the back pump only gets power from the first three. its just easier on the solenoids cause there not made to run high voltages. no matter how many you have.

as far as people running two banks of solenoids, why would you do that? i understand that it splits the voltage, but what i can't understand is why would you want to run six noids when you could only run two.


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## 93CaDiWoOd (Nov 6, 2005)

not only that the motor wouldnt get power, bcuz the ground wouldnt go through the solenoids till the switch man says so..
mine is wirred up the same as that..


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 93CaDiWoOd_@Mar 4 2007, 06:08 PM~7404970
> *not only that the motor wouldnt get power, bcuz the ground wouldnt go through the solenoids till the switch man says so..
> mine is wirred up the same as that..
> *


shit works good to doesn't it! i'm trying to tell people about this but its hard to teach an old dog new tricks.


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## 93CaDiWoOd (Nov 6, 2005)

yea works real good, before my batteries n noids were setup the way most people do it and i dont know why but it kept burning my noids out, catching them on fire and messing up my motors all the time! and i changed it up just how u have it but with 8 batts and 2 extra noids and motor and noids havent burned out yet..


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## BIG RED (Dec 6, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 93CaDiWoOd_@Mar 4 2007, 05:08 PM~7404970
> *not only that the motor wouldnt get power, bcuz the ground wouldnt go through the solenoids till the switch man says so..
> mine is wirred up the same as that..
> *



That is what I was looking to hear.So basically the solenoids act as a ground for the front pump instead of letting the power through


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by CapriceRoller_@Mar 4 2007, 09:07 PM~7407504
> *That is what I was looking to hear.So basically the solenoids act as a ground for the front pump instead of letting the power through
> *


yep, without ground there is no power.


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## DRUID (Oct 31, 2003)

That's a real good idea

After seeing that I dont see myself ever using the old way


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DRUID_@Mar 5 2007, 02:16 AM~7408480
> *That's a real good idea
> 
> After seeing that I dont see myself ever using the old way
> *


hells yea, the old way is only good for 48v max. soon this will be the new standard! :biggrin:


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## wizard408SJHL (Oct 24, 2004)

that looks like it will save your juice on the Batts longer just hope you don't get a bad noid on the front pump that will break fom the end. cause once it makes contact to ground. the fireworks will start and the smell of BBQ will begin


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 3 2007, 10:29 AM~7396173
> *here is a little diagram i drew up for everyone who wanted to know how to run high voltages without burning up solenoids.  you can run how ever many batteries after the solenoids you want.  this setup will send 36v to you back pump and 72v to you front pump.
> 
> 
> ...



What happens when one of your 36 volt solenoids stick closed?. Then you can't lift the front. and if your bank sticks closed for the 36 volt and you have to dis-connect the ground you can't do a damn thing including dump the vehicle to avoid pressure lock because your switch box wont have power. if you have two separate banks and you have a 24volt lead off each one with separate grounds you can always activate the other pump plus dump any dump... 

and you are using the first 3 batteries a lot more then the last 3


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 12:06 PM~7410067
> *What happens when one of your 36 volt solenoids stick closed?.  Then you can't lift the front.  and if your bank sticks closed for the 36 volt and you have to dis-connect the ground you can't do a damn thing including dump the vehicle to avoid pressure lock because your switch box wont have power.  if you have two separate banks and you have a 24volt lead off each one with separate grounds you can always activate the other pump plus dump any dump...
> 
> and you are using the first 3 batteries a lot more then the last 3
> *


 :uh: remind me not to buy your book...


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by impala_631_@Mar 5 2007, 12:57 PM~7410427
> *:uh: remind me not to buy your book...
> *



I'm only stating the obvious and was asking if this was thought of... I'm not knocking it. It's a great idea especially because you don't need as many bateries. unless I'm mistaken, if your first bank of solenoids go, your whole system is down.. no dumps at all and no front pump working


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 01:01 PM~7410449
> *I'm only stating the obvious and was asking if this was thought of...  I'm not knocking it.  It's a great idea especially because you don't need as many bateries.
> *


it would be as simple as disconnecting the lead to the 36volt bank, then u can dump the ass or raise the front,2 seperate grounds is just a very bad idea imo,and the front batterys will get used more on a split bank,no matter where the noids are placed


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

Question (and don't think I'm dis-n here)

Whats the difference of having that picture above to having one bank of solenoids comming off of the 3rd battery for the rear pump and then having the front pump bank feeding from the 6th battery?


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 01:13 PM~7410517
> *Question (and don't think I'm dis-n here)
> 
> Whats the difference of having that picture above to having one bank of solenoids comming off of the 3rd battery for the rear pump and then having the front pump bank feeding from the 6th battery?
> *


putting the front pump noids off the 6th battey will put more stress on the noids


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

Have you tested that? Because the way I see it, it would pull the same amps. You could always add relays... Thats what I do :0


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 02:32 PM~7411464
> *Have you tested that?  Because the way I see it, it would pull the same amps.  You could always add relays...  Thats what I do  :0
> *



But is it amps or volts that kill soleniods...... :dunno: :dunno:


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 03:32 PM~7411464
> *Have you tested that?  Because the way I see it, it would pull the same amps.  You could always add relays...  Thats what I do  :0
> *


its not the amps that kill the noids. :uh:


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 5 2007, 04:16 PM~7411822
> *But is it amps or volts that kill soleniods......  :dunno:  :dunno:
> *


the voltage is what will kill your solenoids. the amps don't increase, just the voltage.


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 12:06 PM~7410067
> *What happens when one of your 36 volt solenoids stick closed?.  Then you can't lift the front.  and if your bank sticks closed for the 36 volt and you have to dis-connect the ground you can't do a damn thing including dump the vehicle to avoid pressure lock because your switch box wont have power.  if you have two separate banks and you have a 24volt lead off each one with separate grounds you can always activate the other pump plus dump any dump...
> 
> and you are using the first 3 batteries a lot more then the last 3
> *


do you mean stick open? cause if they stuck closed then no, you wouldn't be able to lift, but you could still dump. not to mention the fact that you can't do anything anyways with the ground disconnected. :0


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 5 2007, 04:26 PM~7412274
> *do you mean stick open?  cause if they stuck closed then no, you wouldn't be able to lift, but you could still dump.  not to mention the fact that you can't do anything anyways with the ground disconnected. :0
> *



volvo thinking along my lines of thought i always have my 24 volt wire not connected to any of the front pump batteries so when hopping your 24 never loses voltage...if you have one bank you are pulling real hard w the front pump..i think this way would fail often in the long run at high power..i think anyone w 6 maybe 7 batteries it would make sense but for high power hoppers i think it prone to failure...


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

damn good show man.. i remember people asking this wayyy back and noone saying anything...
looks good from my point of view definatly something to try if i ever get my car back on the road. lol


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by ROCKSOLID84_@Mar 5 2007, 06:26 PM~7412605
> *volvo thinking along my lines of thought i always have my 24 volt wire not connected to any of the front pump batteries so when hopping your 24 never loses voltage...if you have one bank you are pulling real hard w the front pump..i think this way would fail often in the long run at high power..i think anyone w 6 maybe 7 batteries it would make sense but for high power hoppers i think it prone to failure...
> *



I often find that its best to have a 24volt lead off two banks when possible. In case there is a problem. But agreed, if you are only going to choose one bank for a 24volt lead in a hopper, the rear bank is a wise choice.


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

QUOTE(Volv_lo @ Mar 5 2007, 12:06 PM) *
What happens when one of your 36 volt solenoids stick closed *( I MEAN OPEN)*?. Then you can't lift the front. and if your bank sticks closed for the 36 volt and you have to dis-connect the ground you can't do a damn thing including dump the vehicle to avoid pressure lock because your switch box wont have power. if you have two separate banks and you have a 24volt lead off each one with separate grounds you can always activate the other pump plus dump any dump... 

and you are using the first 3 batteries a lot more then the last 3



> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 5 2007, 05:26 PM~7412274
> *do you mean stick open?  cause if they stuck closed then no, you wouldn't be able to lift, but you could still dump.  not to mention the fact that you can't do anything anyways with the ground disconnected. :0
> *



Yes, I meant open.
And I fully understand that with ONE GROUND you can't do anything if you pull it.


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 5 2007, 05:23 PM~7412255
> *the voltage is what will kill your solenoids.  the amps don't increase, just the voltage.
> *



Part of the original post is helping your solenoids last longer. By adding relays you lower your amps which does help a lot. 










The above picture is from my book. Now I know it is in relation to double switching but the idea is similar. Can this above diagram benefit from having the solenoids in the position you have shown in your diagram?. I'm pretty sure that if you ran that bank off the 6th battery it would be the same as the 4th battery. So if you say amps are not a factor and the only thing we are talking about here is voltage. How is there less voltage in the 4th battery over the 6th battery when the solenoids are all closed from the switch and current is running though it to the pump and the motor is spinning?? 

I'm not claiming to be an expert here. Its a discussion board, we all learn from each other.... >> TRUE???

This is one of the best threads in a long time... Something different


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

AMPS KILL NOIDS!!!!!


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## BIG RED (Dec 6, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 81juicedregal_@Mar 5 2007, 12:50 AM~7408299
> *yep, without ground there is no power.
> *


Oh I know no ground no power.One of the first things I learned working in a shop


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## biglucke (Jun 9, 2006)

[/quote]

would it be better to run a seperate wire off the 36 volt to the front noids or just a lil jumper like you got pictured?


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## biglucke (Jun 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 08:14 PM~7413347
> *Part of the original post is helping your solenoids last longer.  By adding relays you lower your amps which does help a lot.
> 
> 
> ...


the way your showing in your diagram the noids are getting 72 volts becase there at the end of the bank there for seeing all the voltage, the way superdoge has it the noids are only seeing 36volts & acting as a switch sort of, RIGHT?


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## maniak2005 (Mar 13, 2005)

ya sort of. the noids r seeing less voltage, but still working like they would wired up the traditional way. this is a good idea to use because as the voltage goes up the amps come down a little bit. (about 20% avg.) the motor will only use what it needs. it's watts law. when (watts law = volts x amps= watts) xample. 


the motors r 12v using a #9 gear
@ 24v the motor will pull 300 amps but,
@ 48v the motor will pull 225 amps 
@96v 125 amps

so when u put them the noids at 36v terminal and running 96 v the noids will see 4,500 watts instead of 12,000, even tho your motor is at 96v. that's why they would last longer. the contacts inside r rated at a 12v for however many amps momentary or constant. watts is actually what makes anything electrical work. buy wiring them in between the batts like there describing it would keep u in or just above your watt rating. insted of 4x over, jenerating less heat and arch inside the noid. the watt rating is not a posted rating u have to figure it out.


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## maniak2005 (Mar 13, 2005)

sorry. the numbers posted r actuall avg. values that i tested on my saco comps in my car.


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## undr8ed (May 25, 2003)

:thumbsup: on this topic!!!


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by maniak2005_@Mar 6 2007, 12:43 AM~7416056
> *ya sort of. the noids r seeing less voltage, but still working like they would wired up the traditional way. this is a good idea to use because as the voltage goes up the amps come down a little bit. (about 20% avg.) the motor will only use what it needs. it's watts law. when (watts law = volts x amps= watts) xample.
> the motors r 12v using a #9 gear
> @ 24v the motor will pull 300 amps but,
> ...



EXCELLENT ANSWER.. thank you!!!!! :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

> _Originally posted by impala_631_@Mar 5 2007, 12:57 PM~7410427
> *:uh: remind me not to buy your book...
> *


 :uh:


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 81juicedregal_@Mar 5 2007, 09:22 PM~7413835
> *AMPS KILL NOIDS!!!!!
> *



how do you figure that? when you run your batteries in parallel, (positive to positive, and negative to negative) you increase the amperage with every battery you add. this would be for double batteries for starting engines, car audio and so forth. when you run your batteries in series, (positive to negative) you increase the voltage with every battery you add. 

so based on you comment it wouldn't matter if you had one battery or one hundred, the noids would fry the same.  

some people do run two banks of batteries in a series/parallel configuration. that way your batteries last longer.


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## wizard408SJHL (Oct 24, 2004)

> _Originally posted by maniak2005_@Mar 5 2007, 10:43 PM~7416056
> *ya sort of. the noids r seeing less voltage, but still working like they would wired up the traditional way. this is a good idea to use because as the voltage goes up the amps come down a little bit. (about 20% avg.) the motor will only use what it needs. it's watts law. when (watts law = volts x amps= watts) xample.
> the motors r 12v using a #9 gear
> @ 24v the motor will pull 300 amps but,
> ...


watcha he talkin about ohms law that's a very smart explanation


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## KING OF AZ!!! (Apr 1, 2006)

>


 would it be better to run a seperate wire off the 36 volt to the front noids or just a lil jumper like you got pictured?
[/quote]
All u guys runing 72v don't mess with in fact unless the car is for comp don't fuck with it what tey didn't tell u that as soon your batteries drop under 10 1/2 volts your noids will stick and once they stick if you pull the ground it will keep spinnninguntl u disconect the power cable to the motor which by that time will be hot as hell and shocking the shit out of you and may cause serious burns i wouldn't recomend this for a street car some people on here try to be know it alls but some things should be left to pros. my .02


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> would it be better to run a seperate wire off the 36 volt to the front noids or just a lil jumper like you got pictured?


All u guys runing 72v don't mess with in fact unless the car is for comp don't fuck with it what tey didn't tell u that as soon your batteries drop under 10 1/2 volts your noids will stick and once they stick if you pull the ground it will keep spinnninguntl u disconect the power cable to the motor which by that time will be hot as hell and shocking the shit out of you and may cause serious burns i wouldn't recomend this for a street car some people on here try to be know it alls but some things should be left to pros. my .02
[/quote]


not true, why would it stay on when the ground has no connection? :uh:


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## Guest (Mar 6, 2007)

[


> *QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 the split bank is old news. we are talking early 90's lol.

if you guys are going to try it just make sure you keep your batterys "topped" off like KING OF AZ!! already said. when your volts drop your going to see problems


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## KING OF AZ!!! (Apr 1, 2006)

> All u guys runing 72v don't mess with in fact unless the car is for comp don't fuck with it what tey didn't tell u that as soon your batteries drop under 10 1/2 volts your noids will stick and once they stick if you pull the ground it will keep spinnninguntl u disconect the power cable to the motor which by that time will be hot as hell and shocking the shit out of you and may cause serious burns i wouldn't recomend this for a street car some people on here try to be know it alls but some things should be left to pros. my .02


not true, why would it stay on when the ground has no connection? :uh:
[/quote]
depending how the noids melt it could cause ground therefor completing the circuit causeing the motor to spin


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

He is right. ^^^^^^^ So maybe a quick disconnect after the solenoids too!?!?!?! hno: So 2 quick disconnects...or 4 if you are running two seperate banks!


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

With the split bank I guess you can't hook up a street charger to it either. So I take it Dodge you wont be needing it now.


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

I'm going to run 4 quick disconnect grounds, 15 relays to bypass the solenoids and cut power to the motor so I can run a street charge too while driving.......and double switch it too. :cheesy: Oh...and run a ground up to the front underneath my seat for easy access. Its gonna be awesome!


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## timdog57 (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 03:23 PM~7419994
> *I'm going to run 4 quick disconnect grounds, 15 relays to bypass the solenoids and cut power to the motor so I can run a street charge too while driving.......and double switch it too.  :cheesy:  Oh...and run a ground up to the front underneath my seat for easy access.    Its gonna be awesome!
> *


 :uh: :uh:


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Don't hate!!! Its gonna be awesome!!!


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## timdog57 (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 03:32 PM~7420058
> *Don't hate!!!  Its gonna be awesome!!!
> *


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: 

You gonna build a big board to mount it on? :cheesy:


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by timdog57_@Mar 6 2007, 02:34 PM~7420080
> *:roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:
> 
> You gonna build a big board to mount it on?  :cheesy:
> *



LMFAO.. hahahaha


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by timdog57_@Mar 6 2007, 01:34 PM~7420080
> *:roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:
> 
> You gonna build a big board to mount it on?  :cheesy:
> *


Just wait for the diagram!!!!!


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 02:32 PM~7420058
> *Don't hate!!!  Its gonna be awesome!!!
> *


 :0


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## wizard408SJHL (Oct 24, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 12:32 PM~7420058
> *Don't hate!!!  Its gonna be awesome!!!
> *


make sure u do this at night i wanna see the lighting rod :biggrin:


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Let the hate begin!!!


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## SHORTDOG 62 (Mar 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 02:44 PM~7420609
> *Let the hate begin!!!
> 
> 
> ...


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## Volv_lo (Nov 29, 2002)

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao::roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 03:44 PM~7420609
> *Let the hate begin!!!
> 
> 
> ...


why so simple, u should make it more complicated :biggrin:


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

oh snap, i missed the flux capaciter :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by impala_631_@Mar 6 2007, 02:56 PM~7420682
> *why so simple, u should make it more complicated :biggrin:
> *


I knew I would miss something, dang it. :angry:


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by impala_631_@Mar 6 2007, 02:56 PM~7420690
> *oh snap, i missed the flux capaciter :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:
> *


The key to hopping has finally been revealed! :0


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by KING OF AZ!!!_@Mar 6 2007, 11:51 AM~7419773
> *
> depending how the noids melt it could cause ground therefor completing the circuit causeing the motor to spin
> *


id agree with this one. but thats a big iff.. for the noids to do that they would have to melt all the metal into a pretty good conductor.. and that would have to keep the flow of current and not melt away completly.

make sense.. seeing as the inside of a noid doesnt have a tonn of metal in it then u may be ok. 

oh well.. worth a try anyways.. never was afriad of a little sparks and fire.. thats what the extinguishers are for anyways.


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## Gorilla Bob (Oct 5, 2006)

> _Originally posted by SHORTDOG 62_@Mar 6 2007, 04:48 PM~7420640
> *:roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:
> *



with all that you got one hell of a welder LOL :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 04:02 PM~7420729
> *The key to hopping has finally been revealed!  :0
> 
> 
> ...


the secret is out!!! :0


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## SupremeAir (Feb 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Volv_lo_@Mar 5 2007, 06:14 PM~7413347
> *Part of the original post is helping your solenoids last longer.  By adding relays you lower your amps which does help a lot.
> 
> 
> ...


Dancers are sometime wired like this if you hop the front you want max power but if you hit all fours some time you lower the voltage to the front to even the car out


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## SupremeAir (Feb 20, 2005)

> not true, why would it stay on when the ground has no connection? :uh:


depending how the noids melt it could cause ground therefor completing the circuit causeing the motor to spin
[/quote]
When the noid melts there is no longer a device saying it n/o or n/c just fullpower so Todd is correct .


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## SupremeAir (Feb 20, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## chet milner (Feb 25, 2007)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 01:44 PM~7420609
> *Let the hate begin!!!
> 
> 
> ...


isnt this how that delorean was wired in that movie? lmao


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> would it be better to run a seperate wire off the 36 volt to the front noids or just a lil jumper like you got pictured?


All u guys runing 72v don't mess with in fact unless the car is for comp don't fuck with it what tey didn't tell u that as soon your batteries drop under 10 1/2 volts your noids will stick and once they stick if you pull the ground it will keep spinnninguntl u disconect the power cable to the motor which by that time will be hot as hell and shocking the shit out of you and may cause serious burns i wouldn't recomend this for a street car some people on here try to be know it alls but some things should be left to pros. my .02
[/quote]

this is truth right here!!! 

but what about running a disconect between the 36v and the noids??


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 04:02 PM~7420729
> *The key to hopping has finally been revealed!  :0
> 
> 
> ...



now see your giving away secrets, your not suppose to tell them that part! :angry: :biggrin:


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## CHEVYon22s (Feb 2, 2005)

this sort of infrormation should be left for rookies to figure out for themselvs


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## 93CaDiWoOd (Nov 6, 2005)

y not run, 4 batteries, then a positive to the noids and the other end of the noids to the negative of the other 4 battereis and then last but not least the 8th battery(+) connects to the motor...how much power would the pump be getting?..would it be getting all 8 batteries to the front, or just 4..thats exactley the way i have it setup, havent burned motors since months or noids !


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

how bout this


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 93CaDiWoOd_@Mar 6 2007, 06:29 PM~7423114
> *y not run, 4 batteries, then a positive to the noids and the other end of the noids to the negative of the other 4 battereis and then last but not least the 8th battery(+) connects to the motor...how much power would the pump be getting?..would it be getting all 8 batteries to the front, or just 4..thats exactley the way i have it setup, havent burned motors since months or noids !
> *


96v thats a split bank


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## 93CaDiWoOd (Nov 6, 2005)

nicee , well that split bank works damn good..i recommend it..


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 81juicedregal_@Mar 6 2007, 07:33 PM~7423130
> *how bout this
> 
> 
> ...


that is pointless because if one set fails it will make no difference, its still failed and more to the point you'd never get cable that fuzzy...


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 93CaDiWoOd_@Mar 6 2007, 09:29 PM~7423114
> *y not run, 4 batteries, then a positive to the noids and the other end of the noids to the negative of the other 4 battereis and then last but not least the 8th battery(+) connects to the motor...how much power would the pump be getting?..would it be getting all 8 batteries to the front, or just 4..thats exactley the way i have it setup, havent burned motors since months or noids !
> *


its the same, just a little harder on the solenoids cause they see 48v instead of 36v. your front pump is seeing 96v. is it fast? :biggrin:


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## 93CaDiWoOd (Nov 6, 2005)

yes its pretty quick! lol but really , it is worth spliting the bank, honestly i havent burned out motors since ALONG TIME! or solenoids!..try it bro and if u dont know how to do it exactly show up a diagram of ur pumps and batteries and ill draw it together so u can do it, but u should see a change in speed and a change in motors being burned..


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## lowrider63 (Apr 4, 2006)

> _Originally posted by SupremeAir_@Mar 7 2007, 01:05 AM~7422029
> *Dancers are sometime wired like this if you hop the front you want max power but if you hit all fours some time you lower the voltage to the front to even the car out
> *


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## razor (Jul 7, 2006)

> would it be better to run a seperate wire off the 36 volt to the front noids or just a lil jumper like you got pictured?


All u guys runing 72v don't mess with in fact unless the car is for comp don't fuck with it what tey didn't tell u that as soon your batteries drop under 10 1/2 volts your noids will stick and once they stick if you pull the ground it will keep spinnninguntl u disconect the power cable to the motor which by that time will be hot as hell and shocking the shit out of you and may cause serious burns i wouldn't recomend this for a street car some people on here try to be know it alls but some things should be left to pros. my .02
[/quote]
you could always make your disconect between the last batt and the motor just for hopping and have a seperate one for the rear.


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...pic=322609&st=0


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## Hillbilly Hopper (Mar 25, 2005)

where can i get one of those flux capacitors at, and also the plutonium to power it?


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## ice64berg (Jan 21, 2002)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 6 2007, 08:02 PM~7420729
> *The key to hopping has finally been revealed!  :0
> 
> 
> ...


your all wrong with the flux capacitor ...

cold fusion is where it's at .. and i said cold fusion so you factor in the missouri heat and thermal dynamics ... and well, you hit it and it goes.... bang!


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## Pepper (Jul 20, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Hillbilly Hopper_@Mar 27 2007, 11:54 PM~7567063
> *where can i get one of those flux capacitors at, and also the plutonium to power it?
> *




you got it all wrong homie...you forgot about the upgrade to using biofuel E85 holmz!!! ORALE!


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## TX REGULATER (Jan 28, 2007)

but seriously what way for a hopper single gate would be the best with 12 battertys


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## MonteMan (Feb 5, 2004)

Good info


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Mar 7 2007, 05:03 AM~7425833
> *that is pointless because if one set fails it will make no difference, its still failed and more to the point you'd never get cable that fuzzy...
> *


That is true. But this will lesson the load on the bank of solenoids...Dividing the current into 2 equal paths making the solenoids not as likely to burn or stick. Say the motor draws 225 amp, each parellel bank of noids will see 112.5 the amp load.

This is the best way to beef up soleniods, the only down fall is the extra load on the switch. This is why when we do any of the 2 designs, we use a solenoid to act like a relay ,so that the switch does not carry the load. :biggrin:


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

Wow, best topic in hydro fourm in years

So, your controlling each pump with only 2 solenoids then? 
I wouldnt feel safe on 2 noids, Ive always ran 3 per pump


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## lowrider63 (Apr 4, 2006)

what´s up  have a good weekand


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BlackMagicHydraulics_@Mar 29 2007, 01:01 AM~7574842
> *That is true. But this will lesson the load on the bank of solenoids...Dividing the current into 2 equal paths making the solenoids not as likely to burn or stick. Say the motor draws 225 amp, each parellel bank of noids will see 112.5 the amp load.
> 
> This is the best way to beef up soleniods, the only down fall is the extra load on the switch. This is why when we do any of the 2 designs, we use a solenoid to act like a relay ,so that the switch does not carry the load. :biggrin:
> *



so to be devils advocate how do we know the load is switched in half is this an assumption..

so if this were true the noid would share like 112..amps..so that 37 amps per

if i ran 5 in line with conventenial wiring..it would be like..45 amps per..and that one les3 solenoiud the 24 has to open...this just a idea..

even if u use the factory numbers on a solenoid and the cars the are suppose start 50 amps is no where there rated inout or output..i have been very nervous to even run four in line...but i think the noids does help. but i think more should be brought up about the doubled motors this seem to help alot more with keeping parts alive..


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## razor (Jul 7, 2006)

the guy who has my old car has 6 in line the conventional way,its been working flawlessly for 4 years...hes in this site ''allbuissnes'',he can give you picks if you dont beleive me,i do like the split bank idea tho.....mised an s in his name.


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Mar 3 2007, 11:29 AM~7396173
> *here is a little diagram i drew up for everyone who wanted to know how to run high voltages without burning up solenoids.  you can run how ever many batteries after the solenoids you want.  this setup will send 36v to you back pump and 72v to you front pump.
> 
> 
> ...


Is there anyway I can run my setup like this but have only 36v to the front instead of 72? If not do you think 72 to the front is too much if never really hit switches?


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## regal ryda (Nov 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by fleetwoodpimpin_@Sep 8 2007, 03:28 PM~8746926
> *Is there anyway I can run my setup like this but have only 36v to the front instead of 72? If not do you think 72 to the front is too much if never really hit switches?
> *


you're always gonna "really hit" the switches, just be cause you like how it feels tell da truth :biggrin: I dont hop my shit but I made sure to strap th efront cause being around bitches sumtimes makes me wanna try to :biggrin:


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

> _Originally posted by regal ryda_@Sep 8 2007, 07:07 PM~8747083
> *you're always gonna "really hit" the switches, just be cause you like how it feels tell da truth  :biggrin: I dont hop my shit but I made sure to strap th efront cause being around bitches sumtimes makes me wanna try to  :biggrin:
> *


You right, but my shit aint strapped yet and I dont wanna fuck nuthin up before it is


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## Six Trey (Jul 12, 2005)

Im just curious to see if you guys ever thought about looking into relays/solenoids that were made to handle the kindda amperage/voltage that you run on your setups. I dont know alot about juice but ive been reaserching a little and just kindda figured that a company somewhere made a relay/solenoid that could handle the power you are running.

I was thinking something like this:

http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/...224751#features

It is a high voltage/amperage DC relay (0-1800 volts, 750 amps continuous) Not sure if this is exactly the right thing but maybe a place to start


I dont know how much they cost or even if they are the right type of elec. switch for this app. but I am sure if someone were to call the company they probably could answer that. Even if they are $300/ea it would be worth it to me with all the hazards of fire or burning a motor up or whatever.

I figure someones looked into it,,, like I said Im just curious.


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## Six Trey (Jul 12, 2005)

Ok that first one I posted was a little more $$$$ than I thought. It was about $1200 for 1  

But this one:
http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/...&N=1&IDS=224740

costs about $150/ea and seems like it could work too.


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## tlc64impala (Sep 23, 2003)

are there any diagram with the split bank with 3 pumps 6 batts?


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by tlc64impala_@Sep 29 2007, 07:20 PM~8897106
> *are there any diagram with the split bank with 3 pumps 6 batts?
> *


 running 2 to the back or front???

if you want to run 2 to the back, just run your 2nd pump exactly like the rear in the original diagram in this topic


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## LFTED84 (Jan 6, 2007)

does anyone know how to do that for 12 batts 6 pumps but I do want the same amount of power to all pumps?


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## 84Dippin (Nov 3, 2004)

ttt


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## edmunds costoms hyd (Jun 26, 2002)

> _Originally posted by maniak2005_@Mar 5 2007, 10:43 PM~7416056
> *ya sort of. the noids r seeing less voltage, but still working like they would wired up the traditional way. this is a good idea to use because as the voltage goes up the amps come down a little bit. (about 20% avg.) the motor will only use what it needs. it's watts law. when (watts law = volts x amps= watts) xample.
> the motors r 12v using a #9 gear
> @ 24v the motor will pull 300 amps but,
> ...


Good tec info , so by moving the noids from the front of the rack to thr middle will lower the watts, then would it be better to put the noids a the end then where the ground is?

Just throwing it out there. Im an old dog , I can and do new tricks . But I dont hop anything so Ill just leave it like it is.


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## maniak2005 (Mar 13, 2005)

you can put the noids at the ground point and in would be o volts at the noids when closed. its called a switch to ground works well on higher amperage applications. (the ECM in cars use it all the time). but the only thing is you still need to run a manual disconnect for safety. 
the only problem doing it that way is that when the noids are open it has full voltage at the terminal. then when it closes it will read 0 volts (or close to). the only difference doing it this way as oposed to the other way (traditional) is o volts or 72v. the decideing factor is the switch (noids) is before the load (motor) or after. now if you run the noids after the 24, 36,48v terminal then thats all they will see. instead of 72v on or off.


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## L-BOOGIE (Jul 19, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Mar 5 2007, 01:16 PM~7411822
> *But is it amps or volts that kill soleniods......  :dunno:  :dunno:
> *


You only increase amperage when you run in parallel.


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

Little off topic but
My buddy (who is cheap as hell) and I... would drill out the rivets on the solenoid clean up the contacts
and zip tie them back together... Ghetto but it would work

We would have solenoid contests... See who could shoot the cover of the solenoid the highest in the air with 24 volts 

Fun stuff ...


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