# Single stage paint



## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

Acrylic laquer acrylic urethane acrylic enamel Whats the differance and best to use between the three?


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

Anyone :dunno:


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

Anyone :dunno:


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

lol noone likes to fk with that sht


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Jan 23 2010, 01:34 AM~16382190
> *lol noone likes to fk with that sht
> *


Ya i know, Im mostly just curious but was thinking of using it for a small project


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

what kind of project, i shoot single stage pretty often at maaco we use the urethane enamel stuff, i mean depending on what your using it for it might work for you. if you use the integrated clear coat with it it will give it a much better shine and will also hold the gloss for alot longer heres a pic of black shot by me


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## Reverend Hearse (Jan 2, 2006)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Jan 23 2010, 10:11 AM~16385087
> *what kind of project, i shoot single stage pretty often at maaco we use the urethane enamel stuff, i mean depending on what your using it for it might work for you.  if you use the integrated clear coat with it it will give it a much better shine and will also hold the gloss for alot longer   heres a pic of black shot by me
> 
> 
> ...


not sure how you guys do it , but when i worked for maaco all i did was mixed 1 pint of clear into the enamel already mixed. it just allowed a little more coverage, not much of a difference in gloss or longevity.... seemed like another maaco scam to me just like the uv package they sell.... which was nothing ......


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Jan 23 2010, 01:11 PM~16385087
> *what kind of project, i shoot single stage pretty often at maaco we use the urethane enamel stuff, i mean depending on what your using it for it might work for you. if you use the integrated clear coat with it it will give it a much better shine and will also hold the gloss for alot longer heres a pic of black shot by me
> 
> 
> ...


I was thinking of using it for a couple hoods so i can practice my air brushing , that black has a good gloss can u add a few clear coats on top like a base coat clear coat? Or do u have to use the intergrated clear only?


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## fatruss (Sep 4, 2007)

when i do a paint job if its one solid color i love to use a single stage paint, i use acrylic urethane, and then i wet sand with 1000 grit, and shoot with 2-3 good coats of urethane clear, and cut and buff, that shit looks amazing, and for a quick cheap paint job the single stage acrylic urethane, buffs out so beautiful, even with out the clear on it, it shines like crazy, prolly wont last 5 years but i have had my truck painted for 3 years and it is still holding up nice,


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## cutebratt04 (Sep 9, 2009)

> _Originally posted by fatruss_@Jan 23 2010, 12:55 PM~16385680
> *when i do a paint job if its one solid color i love to use a single stage paint, i use acrylic urethane, and then i wet sand with 1000 grit, and shoot with 2-3 good coats of urethane clear, and cut and buff, that shit looks amazing, and for a quick cheap paint job the single stage acrylic urethane, buffs out so beautiful, even with out the clear on it, it shines like crazy, prolly wont last 5 years but i have had my truck painted for 3 years and it is still holding up nice,
> *


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

> _Originally posted by fatruss_@Jan 23 2010, 02:55 PM~16385680
> *when i do a paint job if its one solid color i love to use a single stage paint, i use acrylic urethane, and then i wet sand with 1000 grit, and shoot with 2-3 good coats of urethane clear, and cut and buff, that shit looks amazing, and for a quick cheap paint job the single stage acrylic urethane, buffs out so beautiful, even with out the clear on it, it shines like crazy, prolly wont last 5 years but i have had my truck painted for 3 years and it is still holding up nice,
> *


Sounds great
Do u got any pics ? I'd love to see it, just might check it out and give it a try . :biggrin:


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## king-david (Aug 24, 2008)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Jan 23 2010, 10:11 AM~16385087
> *what kind of project, i shoot single stage pretty often at maaco we use the urethane enamel stuff, i mean depending on what your using it for it might work for you. if you use the integrated clear coat with it it will give it a much better shine and will also hold the gloss for alot longer heres a pic of black shot by me
> 
> 
> ...



Thats a Maaco paint job? :wow:


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## fatruss (Sep 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by browninthe810_@Jan 23 2010, 03:03 PM~16386975
> *Sounds great
> Do u got any pics ? I'd love to see it, just might check it out and give it a try . :biggrin:
> *











just single stage, no clear


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## fatruss (Sep 4, 2007)

my truck looks exactly like that, the up above pic isnt mi9ne, but i swear it shines just like that, i will take a pic of mine too show u, but it looks just as good as that 3 years later, i just put a littlew extra care into the paint job so i hand polish it alot


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

well with sherwinn williams theres an actual integrated clear that you mix into the single stage, depending on how many coats you put on your vehicle (i usually get great coverage with 2 total coats of single stage, and 2 with a drop coat for metallics) so i put one coat of the single stage on then mix up the rest of the single stage 4:1 to the integrated clear and shoot the last coat, i do that on all of the jobs i do single stage regardless if they pay for it at work or not because it ends up only being around 10-15oz per car of the integrated clear and probaly cost around 5-10$ at most and REALLY helps with it hold its gloss and with solid colors you couldnt tell if it was single stage or base/clear they come out so smooth heres some more pics of single stage ive laid out

this is my homies riviera, when i got it the paint was delaminating from the factory, so he helped me prep it (a little atleast haha) and i did it for him for 350$



































and if you want to clear over, just check with what brand you use, i know omni, and sherwinn both your suppose to wait 4 hours minimum to clear, but if your going to do that anyway save your money on the hardener from the single stage and just use omin base or dimension (sherwinn base) and base clear it. no point in clearing over single stage, just spending more money on hardener becasue your using hardener in the single stage and then hardener in the clear...and hardener is most expensive part in the single stage so just use some cheap base if you want to go that route!!


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

:wow: looks great  what color is your truck? Can the single stage metalic paint be sprayed with the same results? Or do you have to bury it in clear?


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Jan 24 2010, 01:45 PM~16393621
> *well with sherwinn williams theres an actual integrated clear that you mix into the single stage, depending on how many coats you put on your vehicle (i usually get great coverage with 2 total coats of single stage, and 2 with a drop coat for metallics) so i put one coat of the single stage on then mix up the rest of the single stage 4:1 to the integrated clear and shoot the last coat, i do that on all of the jobs i do single stage regardless if they pay for it at work or not because it ends up only being around 10-15oz per car of the integrated clear and probaly cost around 5-10$ at most and REALLY helps with it hold its gloss and with solid colors you couldnt tell if it was single stage or base/clear they come out so smooth heres some more pics of single stage ive laid out
> 
> this is my homies riviera, when i got it the paint was delaminating from the factory, so he helped me prep it (a little atleast haha) and i did it for him for 350$
> ...


:biggrin: looking good great info, what do u mean by a drop coat for metalics?


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

Any pics of metallics single stage paint? :biggrin:


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## cutebratt04 (Sep 9, 2009)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Jan 24 2010, 11:45 AM~16393621
> *well with sherwinn williams theres an actual integrated clear that you mix into the single stage, depending on how many coats you put on your vehicle (i usually get great coverage with 2 total coats of single stage, and 2 with a drop coat for metallics) so i put one coat of the single stage on then mix up the rest of the single stage 4:1 to the integrated clear and shoot the last coat, i do that on all of the jobs i do single stage regardless if they pay for it at work or not because it ends up only being around 10-15oz per car of the integrated clear and probaly cost around 5-10$ at most and REALLY helps with it hold its gloss and with solid colors you couldnt tell if it was single stage or base/clear they come out so smooth heres some more pics of single stage ive laid out
> 
> this is my homies riviera, when i got it the paint was delaminating from the factory, so he helped me prep it (a little atleast haha) and i did it for him for 350$
> ...




Cool!


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

UMM ILL HAVE TO CHECK AND SEE IF I HAVE ANY PICTURES, THE METALLICS DONT COME OUT AS GLOSSY, BY DROP COAT I MEAN YOU HAVE TO LAY A 3RD COAT WITH HIGHER PRESSURE AND FURTHUR DISTANCE TO GET THE METTALICS TO EVEN OUT AND NOT STRIPE, PUTTING ON THE PAINT TO WET WILL LEAVE REALLY BAD STRIPES IN THE METTALICS, SO IN ORDER TO GET THEM TO LAY OUT YOU MUST SHOOT A COAT WITH THE PRESSURE UP AROUND 35 AND FURTHUR BACK THAN YOUR ORIGINAL COAT, BUT IT MUST BE WHILE THE 2ND COAT IS STILL TACKY ENOUGH TO NOT DULL OUT THE PAINT

YOU WANT TO START WITH YOUR ROOF, DOWN THE QUARTERS AND DO YOUR REAR END, THEN GO BACK TO THE ROOF AND HIT IT WITH THE HIGHER PRESSURE 3RD COAT, THEN BACK TO YOUR ORIGINAL PRESSURE AND DO YOUR DOORS, THEN GO BACK WITH UR HIGHER PRESSURE OVER THE REAR END, THEN GO BACK DO YOUR HOOD AND FRONT END, AND GO BACK AND DO YOUR DOORS WITH THE HIGHER PRESSURE, JUST KEEP YOUR WET EDGE GOING, BECAUSE IF YOU WAIT TO LONG TO DO THE DROP COAT IT WILL LEAVE YOU WITH A VERY ORANGE PEAL LOOK AND A VERY DULLED OUT PAINT JOB.

LET ME KNOW IF YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT I MEAN, ILL TRY TO TAKE SOME PICS OR SEE IF I GOT ANY ANYWHERE, IF ANYTHING IT SHOULDNT BE LONG BE4 I HAVE TO DO ANOTHER 1 AND ILL TAKE SOEM THEN

oh an my truck right now is still the stock blue/gold. im waiting on a spray out card from alsa for there chameleion to see how if flops and if i like it, then im going with that! otherwise im going with a candy 2tone


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## cutebratt04 (Sep 9, 2009)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Jan 24 2010, 05:05 PM~16396123
> *UMM ILL HAVE TO CHECK AND SEE IF I HAVE ANY PICTURES, THE METALLICS DONT COME OUT AS GLOSSY, BY DROP COAT I MEAN YOU HAVE TO LAY A 3RD COAT WITH HIGHER PRESSURE AND FURTHUR DISTANCE TO GET THE METTALICS TO EVEN OUT AND NOT STRIPE, PUTTING ON THE PAINT TO WET WILL LEAVE REALLY BAD STRIPES IN THE METTALICS, SO IN ORDER TO GET THEM TO LAY OUT YOU MUST SHOOT A COAT WITH THE PRESSURE UP AROUND 35 AND FURTHUR BACK THAN YOUR ORIGINAL COAT, BUT IT MUST BE WHILE THE 2ND COAT IS STILL TACKY ENOUGH TO NOT DULL OUT THE PAINT
> 
> YOU WANT TO START WITH YOUR ROOF, DOWN THE QUARTERS AND DO YOUR REAR END, THEN GO BACK TO THE ROOF AND HIT IT WITH THE HIGHER PRESSURE 3RD COAT, THEN BACK TO YOUR ORIGINAL PRESSURE AND DO YOUR DOORS, THEN GO BACK WITH UR HIGHER PRESSURE OVER THE REAR END, THEN GO BACK DO YOUR HOOD AND FRONT END, AND GO BACK AND DO YOUR DOORS WITH THE HIGHER PRESSURE, JUST KEEP YOUR WET EDGE GOING, BECAUSE IF YOU WAIT TO LONG TO DO THE DROP COAT IT WILL LEAVE YOU WITH A VERY ORANGE PEAL LOOK AND A VERY DULLED OUT PAINT JOB.
> ...



 Cool! Sounds Good either way! :cheesy:


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

thanks man ill keep in mind to take pics of a metallic single stage


but in my own opinion if your looking to do a over all paint job thats metallic i would say fuck single stage, just get your self a cheap base coat and some cheap clear it would come out much more better


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## AuggieStyle (Sep 24, 2006)

ok the difference between acrlic urethane and acrylic enamel is the resin that goes into the tint/toner are you familiar with tint load? i figured since you asked about the difference in the differences in single stage that you needed me to explain from the ground floor.
all paint has a binder and balancer in for instance PPG Deltron dbc you have DMD 649 and DBX 1689 very high quality (resins) BINDER AND BALANCERS they have some uv protectants (keeps color from fading) dupont uses 150k and 175k.
in single stages they use a variety of resins for different applications the the acrylic urethane is a better product thus more expensive and longer lasting color hold out and gloss. no integrated clear is required.
the tint load is usually the same in a product line (duont imron, shopline, delfleet, nason)
but for instance if you compared nason 20% tint and 80% resin to shopline 33% tint 67 % resin.
acrylic urethane usually covers 2 coats and the acrylic enamel usually takes 3 coats and recomends an integrated clear that mixes 0ne to one in some brands
so you can see how the price can creep up....all the other s/s is for painting tractors and swingsets and should not be used in the automotive industry especially the custom market.
i used to use s/s BLACK ....shop line jet black with the dcu100 clear and a little bit of 2002 to help with the flow and you could read a newspaper in the reflection of the paint from 10 feet away.
hope i didnt confuse you if you have any direct questions please ask.

metallics are a whole different monster in s/s but once you figure out the tack coat drop coat and how to move the flake around with a buffer you can get a good shine from s/s good luck with trying to blend or repair s/s metallics after an accident


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

> *
> metallics are a whole different monster in s/s but once you figure out the tack coat drop coat and how to move the flake around with a buffer you can get a good shine from s/s good luck with trying to blend or repair s/s metallics after an accident
> *



like he said, i dont even try buffing any single stage metallics, waste of time i think,

if your going metallic or mica stay away from single stage, period.

i myself wont even do a sidejob with single stage unless its a solid color (non metallic/mica) and only if its just someone who wants to flip the car for some money or a buddie just wants a quick paint job to shine thru summer

no point in using single stage really if your planning on keeping your car just dish out the few extra bucks and get some cheap base/clear


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

Thanks for all the great information and to all the replies.


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

Decided to go with a urethane based single stage non metallic paint.
Thanks again for all the great info. 
I would still like to see pics of single stage painted cars. 

:cheesy:


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

like i said i knew i'd have to do a cheap metallic single stage pretty soon, heres one i shot today, its wa121a gm blue/silver, in the pics it dont look bad but if you compare it to the other non metallic ones i have posted pics of you can see a big difference in gloss and orange peal


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## cutebratt04 (Sep 9, 2009)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Jan 26 2010, 10:22 PM~16423551
> *like  i said i knew i'd have to do a cheap metallic single stage pretty soon, heres one i shot today, its wa121a gm blue/silver, in the pics it dont look bad but if you compare it to the other non metallic ones i have posted pics of you can see a big difference in gloss and orange peal
> 
> 
> ...


Paint Job still looks pretty Clean thou! :biggrin: Is that a 92' Chevy Cavalier? :cheesy:


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## browninthe810 (Mar 19, 2007)

Looking good homie,
Thanks for the pics.


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

ya its a cavalier lol


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## fatruss (Sep 4, 2007)

it wouldnt look bad at all if cut and buffed, the only problem is cutting a metallic single stage scares the shit outta me, eeeeeekkkk, but still tight color


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

> _Originally posted by fatruss_@Jan 27 2010, 10:33 PM~16435423
> *it wouldnt look bad at all if cut and buffed, the only problem is cutting a metallic single stage scares the shit outta me, eeeeeekkkk, but still tight color
> *



i wont even take the time to bother buffing a single stage paint, waste of time in my opinion... if i have to spend the time buffing a single stage id of rather just sprayed it base/clear and not even have to worry about buffing it..


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