# How's this setup sound?



## themerc

Alright, I'm going to keep my Panasonic CQ-C7103U headunit for now. I'll be using a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D amp to power a single Fi Q15 subwoofer. I'll be using a Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 amp to power my 5.25" CDT components up front and a set of speakers in back. I haven't decided on the speakers for the back, but I want them to give me some midbass. Does anyone have ideas? They need to handle around 100 rms watts each. I usually shop on Techronics.com - Online Electronics Store - and WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Super Store, The largest selection at the lowest prices!

*SAE-1000D $285 shipped*

The SAE-1000D is Sundown's "entry level" subwoofer amplifier and is designed as a very compact bass amplification solution. This amplifier packs 1000 watts into a chassis that is over 5 inches shorter than that of the SAZ-1500D. As with the SAZ-1500D sound quality was a paramount concern with the SAE-1000D and it will not disappoint those looking for a crisp and clean bass amplifier. The SAE-1000D is also made with the future in mind as two units can be linked together to produce a staggering 1800 watts into a 2 ohm load.

SPECIFICATIONS:

* 1000 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm
* 600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms
* 300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms
* 0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
* 10 Hz - 350 Hz Frequency Response
* > 90 dB S/N Ratio
* 4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
* Linkable to another SAZ-1000D for 1800 watts @ 2 ohms
* 35 Hz - 300 Hz adjustable 24dB Low-Pass Crossover
* 10 Hz - 60 Hz adjustable 24dB Subsonic Filter
* 0 - 180 degree adjustable phase shift
* 0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost with 45 Hz center frequency
* Wired Remote Control unit included
* 3x 30 Amp Internal Fuses
* 4 AWG power and ground terminals 
* 11.5" L x 10.2" W x 2" H
* $399 US Dollars - MSRP
* $439 Canadian Dollars - MSRP



*SAX-100.4 $300 shipped*

The SAX-100.4 is the second "X" series multi-channel amplifier to come from Sundown Audio. This model is built to the same exacting standards as the SAX-100.2 but adds another set of channels and more advanced crossovers. It's flexible crossovers allow the user to run a 2-way active speaker setup with no external processing. It packs enough punch that one could also run a set of front speakers with one pair of channels and a subwoofer, bridged, on the other pair of channels for use as a total system amplifier where high power is not required.

SPECIFICATIONS:

* 100 x 4 watts @ 4 ohms
* 160 x 4 watts @ 2 ohms
* 320 x 2 watts @ 4 ohms bridged
* Damping Factor > 200 @ 4 Ohms
* 0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
* 10 Hz - 40,000 Hz Frequency Response
* Channel Separations: 75 dB
* > 90 dB S/N Ratio
* 4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
* Selectable HP / LP / FULL crossover
* CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
* CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
* CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
* CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
* 10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4)
* Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration
* 0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost
* 35 - 120 Hz Variable Bass Boost Center Frequency
* Wired Remote Control unit included
* 3x 30 Amp Internal Fuses
* 16.5" L x 9.9" W x 2" H
* $449 US Dollars - MSRP
* $495 Canadian Dollars - MSRP


*Fi Q15 $279 shipped*

The Q Series of subwoofers is our sound quality reference line. Featuring a hefty double stack motor structure with a heavily bumped t-yoke, the 27mm of Xmax allows for incredibly detailed, tight, and powerful bass. Dual progressive spiders keep the incredible linear excursion of this sub under control, while the extra heavy lead wire feeds the giant voice coil. Working well in both small ported and sealed enclosures, you do not have to give up your trunk to have strong bottom octave foundation for the rest of your system. The Q series is the new bottom octave benchmark.

Q Series: 12”, 15”, and 18”
Dual 1 and Dual 2 Ohm
Cast basket
Wrap around gasket
Kraft pulp fiber reinforced cone
Single layer wide foam surround
Push terminals
Extra heavy lead wire
FEA optimized motor
3” diameter 4 layer coil
Double stack magnets
Dual progressive spiders

DUAL 1 | DUAL 2

Fs: 25.9 Hz | 24.9 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil
Qms: 5.64 | 5.72
Qes: .54 | .54
Qts: .49 | .49
Mms: 257g | 279g
Cms: 0.15mm/N | 0.15mm/N
Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2
Vas: 135 l | 135 l
Spl: 88.2dB 1W/1m | 87.7dB 1W/1m
Bl: 10.4 N/A | 15.1 N/A
Xmax: 27mm
Rms: 1000W
Sealed box: 2-2.6 cuft
Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz
Sub OD: 15.625”
Cut ID: 14.125”
Mounting depth: 8.500”
Displacement: 0.19cuft


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## Sporty

cdt makes midbass drivers. also, image dynamics have some pretty good sounding midbass as well... I've ran their 6.5's and loved them, they just didnt get as loud as i wanted them too (i was running their coaxils)


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## C-Bass

CDT Makes some 6x9s


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## themerc

Yeah, I guess I'm not very impressed with CDT. They get loud but they can't take any bass at all. I have to keep my speaker bass at -4. I don't know if that's just 5.25" components in general, or what. What size CDT drivers have you guys used?


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## C-Bass

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 19 2007, 01:53 PM~9039953
> *Yeah, I guess I'm not very impressed with CDT. They get loud but they can't take any bass at all. I have to keep my speaker bass at -4. I don't know if that's just 5.25" components in general, or what. What size CDT drivers have you guys used?
> *


I've never been impressed with 5.25" drivers bass at all. 6.25" are much better in my ears, but they're not really meant to hit too low anyway.

My buddy had some 6.25" in his full size van that sounded ok. We took the door off and sealed up all the holes with tape/sound deadening and they sounded much better.

I built a box for some 6.25"s a long time ago that in a small room sounded damn impressive how low they got.

Just thinking out loud here...have you played around with your crossover settings?


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## Sporty

with the cdt's, you have to seal your doors pretty good.. which ones are you using by the way?.. .they make a number of components.

I use the EF 6.5's with satnet 480 cross's and the mid bass is pretty smooth and punchy. I have them crossed at ~100hz, and set my pana HU up correctly (i love the eq and filter features on my HU). the ID's help fill in that freq. band as well

You know how with subs, you can't just throw them in a box and expect them to be sick?... same thing with comps, you cant just throw them in your door and think they're gonna be at their best.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 19 2007, 02:53 PM~9039953
> *Yeah, I guess I'm not very impressed with CDT. They get loud but they can't take any bass at all. I have to keep my speaker bass at -4. I don't know if that's just 5.25" components in general, or what. What size CDT drivers have you guys used?
> *


sounds like an install issue


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 19 2007, 04:54 PM~9040431
> *with the cdt's, you have to seal your doors pretty good.. which ones are you using by the way?.. .they make a number of components.
> 
> I use the EF 6.5's with satnet 480 cross's and the mid bass is pretty smooth and punchy. I have them crossed at ~100hz, and set my pana HU up correctly (i love the eq and filter features on my HU). the ID's help fill in that freq. band as well
> 
> You know how with subs, you can't just throw them in a box and expect them to be sick?... same thing with comps, you cant just throw them in your door and think they're gonna be at their best.
> *


CL-S50A with TW-25mm Tweeters and SatNet-400 crossovers...

What did you set to 100Hz? The crossover on your amplifier? Your headunit HPF?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 21 2007, 03:04 PM~9051331
> *CL-S50A with TW-25mm Tweeters and SatNet-400 crossovers...
> 
> What did you set to 100Hz? The crossover on your amplifier? Your headunit HPF?
> *


my HPF on the HU is at or near 100 (The closest band starting at 100, i cant remember exactly), and yes to the cross on the amp.

i would think you would want to go to 80hz being that you dont have anything else for midbass... but it is a 5.25".

if you wanna get serious... get some 6.5" cdt midbass drivers in the doors, and put your comps in some kicks...


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## themerc

Yeah I don't think I want to make kick panels, but I'm thinking about some 6.5" CDT midbass drivers in the rear deck... or modifying my rear doors for some 6.5's. The rear doors don't have speakers in my car, but theres a large section on the bottom of the door with carpet on it.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 21 2007, 10:25 PM~9053778
> *Yeah I don't think I want to make kick panels, but I'm thinking about some 6.5" CDT midbass drivers in the rear deck... or modifying my rear doors for some 6.5's. The rear doors don't have speakers in my car, but theres a large section on the bottom of the door with carpet on it.
> *


i think your gonna do whatever your gonna do and then afterwards attempt some kickpanels :biggrin: 

in a car, thats what i would do. woulda have done it like that in my truck but just so happens i stumbled along better uffin:


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 21 2007, 11:28 PM~9053803
> *i think your gonna do whatever your gonna do and then afterwards attempt some kickpanels  :biggrin:
> 
> in a car, thats what i would do. woulda have done it like that in my truck but just so happens i stumbled along better uffin:
> *


Yeah you're probably right. Here's a modified rear door of a crown vic...









My door basically looks like that except the gray leather is tan carpet with no speakers.


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## Sporty

you'll be WAY better off with option #1 and you know it. kicks arent that difficult, try it out. or better yet, you can prolly find some for your specific car, but i mean, if you can make it you can save a ton


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 21 2007, 11:35 PM~9053849
> *you'll be WAY better off with option #1 and you know it. kicks arent that difficult, try it out. or better yet, you can prolly find some for your specific car, but i mean, if you can make it you can save a ton
> *


Yeah they don't make kicks for a grand marquis lol. 










There's my front door.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 21 2007, 10:39 PM~9053885
> *Yeah they don't make kicks for a grand marquis lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's my front door.
> *


i forgot you mounted the tweeter up there... n/m

put a 5.25" midbass driver in the kick then... that should be even easier


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 22 2007, 02:31 PM~9057358
> *i forgot you mounted the tweeter up there... n/m
> 
> put a 5.25" midbass driver in the kick then... that should be even easier
> *


If I did do that, which I'm not promising I will, which set of speakers would you run off the headunit, the pair in the rear deck? or the pair in the kick panels? The components in the doors would definitely run off of the amp.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 22 2007, 02:39 PM~9057796
> *If I did do that, which I'm not promising I will, which set of speakers would you run off the headunit, the pair in the rear deck? or the pair in the kick panels? The components in the doors would definitely run off of the amp.
> *


i wouldnt have anything in the rear deck, and i would amp the mid bass drivers... get some cdt 6.5's and make some kicks for them... aim the passenger kick and the driver and driver kick at the passenger.

anyone agree/disagree? he's already got a hole in his doors for the tweeters so putting the comps down in the kicks is a lil out of the question


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 22 2007, 03:57 PM~9057936
> *i wouldnt have anything in the rear deck, and i would amp the mid bass drivers... get some cdt 6.5's and make some kicks for them... aim the passenger kick and the driver and driver kick at the passenger.
> 
> anyone agree/disagree? he's already got a hole in his doors for the tweeters so putting the comps down in the kicks is a lil out of the question
> *


I think whitepapi had some kicks made for his car that attached to the door in place of that giant pocket.


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## themerc

How much do you think it would cost me to build some kicks and cover them in leather like my doors?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 22 2007, 04:13 PM~9058488
> *How much do you think it would cost me to build some kicks and cover them in leather like my doors?
> *


once you do that it is no longer called a kickpanel, but a doorpod 

and that'll be cool too


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## themerc

Hmm... how bout the 5.25" components in the front doors, 6.5's in the doorpods on the front doors, and some 6.5's or smaller in the rear doors running off the headunit?


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## Sporty

dont run anything off the headunit... wont make a difference anyhow... i mean, 18wrms on some 6.5's in the back battling it out with 6.5's and 5.25 comps all recieving ~100wRMS each in the front? you tell me if its worth it... make some grills to cover up the speaker cut-out in your rear tray and concentrate on the front.

i know its hard to accept, but you will not rob yourself of anything by not having anything in the rear... a strong front stage is all you need


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 22 2007, 05:39 PM~9058656
> *dont run anything off the headunit... wont make a difference anyhow... i mean, 18wrms on some 6.5's in the back battling it out with 6.5's and 5.25 comps all recieving ~100wRMS each in the front? you tell me if its worth it... make some grills to cover up the speaker cut-out in your rear tray and concentrate on the front.
> 
> i know its hard to accept, but you will not rob yourself of anything by not having anything in the rear... a strong front stage is all you need
> *


I don't have any holes to cover up. I didn't cut the carpet on the new rear deck after the insurance company replaced it (the old one had holes for 6x9's but it got ripped out when my speakers got stolen).


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## Sporty

even better! make your own lil vent... only thing stopping you now is if you have a lack of imagination


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## themerc

Alright...

CDT 5.25" components and 6.5's (in doorpods/kickpanels) powered by SAX-100.4 and Q15 ported powered by SAE-1000D.

Building doorpods... yay...


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## themerc

I'm just curious...

What would the the loudest possible way to setup subs in my car without doing a wall that fully blocked rear-view mirror view? Is there some sort of halfwall or something that would be louder than a box in the trunk?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 24 2007, 05:42 PM~9075374
> *I'm just curious...
> 
> What would the the loudest possible way to setup subs in my car without doing a wall that fully blocked rear-view mirror view? Is there some sort of halfwall or something that would be louder than a box in the trunk?
> *


just to make sure i understand you. you want to know what kind of enclosure would fully block your rearview mirror but not be wall and (of course) be the loudest possible setup?

or did you mean would not fully block rearview mirror?


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 24 2007, 07:12 PM~9075618
> *just to make sure i understand you. you want to know what kind of enclosure would fully block your rearview mirror but not be wall and (of course) be the loudest possible setup?
> 
> or did you mean would not fully block rearview mirror?
> *


Sorry... what is the loudest possible setup without blocking the rear view mirror?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 24 2007, 06:30 PM~9075739
> *Sorry... what is the loudest possible setup without blocking the rear view mirror?
> *


You can BP and vent through your rear deck (I haven't heard any bad things about this sort of set up)

You can take your backseats out and mod the area so that the subs and port fire directly into the cabin and are sealed from the trunk

You can try different box alignment with different subs and have a vent in your rear deck 

what's your goal? what are you trying to gain?


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## themerc

Like what would happen if you put a box where the backseat is. Almost like a wall... but only as high as the rear deck so you can see out the back... I guess sort of like having subs in a pickup.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc+Oct 24 2007, 08:13 PM~9076439-->
> 
> 
> 
> Like what would happen if you put a box where the backseat is. Almost like a wall... but only as high as the rear deck so you can see out the back... I guess sort of like having subs in a pickup.
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-Sporty_@Oct 24 2007, 08:11 PM~9076424
> *
> You can take your backseats out and mod the area so that the subs and port fire directly into the cabin and are sealed from the trunk
> 
> *


I dont think thats necessary... if your not gonna do a wall then dont even fuck with it like that. But i've seen it done, so


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## themerc

it'd be louder than a normal trunk setup though right?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 24 2007, 08:19 PM~9076482
> *it'd be louder than a normal trunk setup though right?
> *


should be. I've seen people that do that with vehicles where you can fold the back seats down. They would build their enclosure so when they seats down, its pretty much fitting right into that space, and they seal the front baffle off from the rest of the trunk. when it's time to meter, they let the back seat down and do they're thing.

I think a BP with the right subs firing through the rear deck might be a safe go if your seats dont fold down... Understand how big of a project that is and what a large change that is for your DAILY vehicle


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## themerc

Yeah I was just thinking a giant triangular box that fits right where my backseat is... the entire box in the backseat, with the face at like a 45 degree angle up. I wouldn't mess with the car, just take the backseat out and put the box there and make some beauty panels. 

Good news is, if I get into University of Florida I'm probably going to sell my car and get a black tahoe.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Oct 24 2007, 08:27 PM~9076530
> *Yeah I was just thinking a giant triangular box that fits right where my backseat is... the entire box in the backseat, with the face at like a 45 degree angle up. I wouldn't mess with the car, just take the backseat out and put the box there and make some beauty panels.
> 
> Good news is, if I get into University of Florida I'm probably going to sell my car and get a black tahoe.
> *


good luck with that.


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Oct 24 2007, 09:31 PM~9076556
> *good luck with that.
> *


which part lol


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## themerc

If I get a tahoe I'll double my setup and get a second SAE-1000D and another Fi Q15.


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## themerc

Well, I think I finally have a legitimate buyer. We agreed on $575 for my 2 cvr12's, 2 400.1's, and a sealed box. I'd say I did well. He said he'll have the money in 2 weeks to buy it.


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## themerc

Well I'm halfway done building this sealed box. It's 1.265 cubes per chamber... 32" wide, 14" tall, 14" deep with a divider. It looks so small compared to my other boxes.


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## snyper99

> _Originally posted by kannabis_@Oct 19 2007, 02:37 PM~9040303
> *I've never been impressed with 5.25" drivers bass at all.  6.25" are much better in my ears, but they're not really meant to hit too low anyway.
> 
> My buddy had some 6.25" in his full size van that sounded ok.  We took the door off and sealed up all the holes with tape/sound deadening and they sounded much better.
> 
> I built a box for some 6.25"s a long time ago that in a small room sounded damn impressive how low they got.
> 
> Just thinking out loud here...have you played around with your crossover settings?
> *


thats what i was thinking about doing for the rear deck,build some small boxes for some 6.25 but wasnt sure if it would have any effect on a speaker that size


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## themerc

Finished the sealed box.


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## themerc

Tomorrow I'm going to try the new box out and see how it sounds. I've never had these sealed before. Hopefully they sound good... I need this money.


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## themerc

I think I'm going to tune a little lower on the Q15. After doing some reading, it seems most people tune 4 cubes to 30 or 32 Hz.


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## themerc

Alright I think this is it. By extending the back left portion of the box, I'm able to accomplish a lot of things. If you remember, my spare tire is going to be standing up behind the box. Well this way the tire will sit behind the right side of the box, and that portion will keep it from rolling as I drive. Not only that, but I put the port on that side as well, so my tire is on the opposite side of the port, which is nice since it should block less airflow back to the cabin. Then, because that portion gave me volume, I was able to decrease the depth of the box from the original 14" I had in mind to 13.5"... while changing the box to a double thick front baffle, so I've got a decent amount of room in front of the sub as well. Then, I was also able to decrease the overall height of the box from 22" to 21", which should get me better airflow too. I've got some 2x4's in there for bracing.


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## Pitbullx

who needs a spare tire :uh:


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 11:47 AM~9299187
> *who needs a spare tire :uh:
> *


...me.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 25 2007, 10:49 AM~9299195
> *...me.
> *


no u dont


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 12:10 PM~9299264
> *no u dont
> *


You're right, spare tires make no sense. When you get a flat on the side of the highway you should just walk to a tire shop, buy a new tire, and roll it back to your car.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 25 2007, 11:15 AM~9299292
> *You're right, spare tires make no sense. When you get a flat on the side of the highway you should just walk to a tire shop, buy a new tire, and roll it back to your car.
> *


you can rock a donut or throw the fullsize spare in the ride for long trips


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 01:07 PM~9299541
> *you can rock a donut or throw the fullsize spare in the ride for long trips
> *


My spare is a 145/80/16 and my stock tire is a 225/60/16.


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## themerc

Alright, my dual 2 ohm Fi Q15 with BP Power option has officially been ordered.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 25 2007, 12:15 PM~9299584
> *My spare is a 145/80/16 and my stock tire is a 225/60/16.
> *


big enough to get you home and small enough to shove on the rear deck :0


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 25 2007, 01:12 PM~9299847
> *Alright, my dual 2 ohm Fi Q15 with BP Power option has officially been ordered.
> *


 :cheesy:


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 05:20 PM~9300986
> *big enough to get you home  and small enough to shove on the rear deck :0
> *


now that's ghetto


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 25 2007, 08:05 PM~9302263
> *now that's ghetto
> *


let me rephrase that.... 
parcel shelf not rear deck


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 09:09 PM~9302303
> *let me rephrase that....
> parcel shelf not rear deck
> *


parcel shelf?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 25 2007, 08:11 PM~9302313
> *parcel shelf?
> *


thats the technical name for the shelf inside the trunk thats below your rear deck...


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 09:12 PM~9302326
> *thats the technical name for the shelf inside the trunk thats below your rear deck...
> *


Oh... yeah that's where it's supposed to be, except it hangs over the edge like 7" and takes up too much of the shelf so there isn't much room to put amps, crossovers, distribution blocks, etc.


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## Pitbullx

put that bitch in a trashbag and leave it on the floor behind the seats


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 09:21 PM~9302419
> *put that bitch in a trashbag and leave it on the floor behind the seats
> *


Trust me, I thought it about it.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 25 2007, 08:34 PM~9302535
> *Trust me, I thought it about it.
> *


dew eeeet


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 25 2007, 11:29 PM~9303434
> *dew eeeet
> *


What would that accomplish though? I can fit 4 cubes @ 31Hz just fine with the spare... and I've already ordered my Q15 with BP Power... so I'm not throwing an 18 in there.


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## Pitbullx

www.sissy.com


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## themerc

Well I've been looking at batteries... just in case I've got dimming or low voltage. 

I called a place in Georgia about the Odyssey PC2150 and they said $316 plus shipping and it was backordered 5 weeks. It was about $335 shipped on ebay.

I went on ebay and looked at kinetik batteries. The HC2400 was about $270 shipped and the KHC16V was about $240 shipped.

The optima yellowtop at my local shop was about $190.




Could I run a 16v battery? Would an HC2400 be too big for a stock alternator?


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## Brahma Brian

You cant run a 16v battery with what you have...


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## themerc

Okay. Kinetik's website recommends an HC1800 for the wattage I'm going to be pushing, but for less than a 70 dollar difference, why not go big in the beginning and get the HC2400.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 26 2007, 05:52 PM~9309776
> *Well I've been looking at batteries... just in case I've got dimming or low voltage.
> 
> I called a place in Georgia about the Odyssey PC2150 and they said $316 plus shipping and it was backordered 5 weeks. It was about $335 shipped on ebay.
> 
> I went on ebay and looked at kinetik batteries. The HC2400 was about $270 shipped and the KHC16V was about $240 shipped.
> 
> The optima yellowtop at my local shop was about $190.
> Could I run a 16v battery? Would an HC2400 be too big for a stock alternator?
> *


2150's are 249 + ship directly from odyssey...... with a warranty


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 26 2007, 09:51 PM~9311618
> *2150's are 249 + ship directly from odyssey...... with a warranty
> *


How do they compare to an HC2400 though?


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## Pitbullx

and you cant run a 16v battery with your setup.....


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 26 2007, 08:53 PM~9311638
> *How do they compare to an HC2400 though?
> *


both batteries are very close in terms of performance but the 2150s work better in my application...


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## themerc

My Sundown Audio SAE-1000D and Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 amps have officially been ordered.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 27 2007, 09:29 PM~9319648
> *My Sundown Audio SAE-1000D and Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 amps have officially been ordered.
> *


 :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

My Q15 should be here Tuesday and Ben said my amps should be here early next week as well. Now let's all pray I don't need a second battery...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 29 2007, 05:15 PM~9333692
> *My Q15 should be here Tuesday and Ben said my amps should be here early next week as well. Now let's all pray I don't need a second battery...
> *


you might be able to eek by without one but one would be better


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 29 2007, 06:59 PM~9334002
> *you might be able to eek by without one but one would be better
> *


Yeah I plan on getting one, I just hope I don't _need_ one... so I can at least listen to my system before I get the battery installed... and so when do I get one my voltage is beast.


----------



## themerc

When I add a second battery, like a kinetik, will I need the PAC-200?


----------



## fourdrvet

i switched from my 96 ss impala to an 06 nissan 350z

i use the cdt comps as front stage no rear fill they sound great 
2 sets of comps 
2 sets of tweets 

2 x 6.5"
2 x 5.25" 
4 x 1"
4 x 3/4"
4 x cdt 560 crossovers


ES-062i GOLD , 1 set in custom glassed, dampened , and vinyled door pods 
ES-52i GOLD , 1 set in custom glassed , dampened , and sueded kick panles 

Crossover: EX-560i “Transient Optimized” Elliptic 4th order 2-way, 4 each in the factory glove box 


TW-19 Audio Phile Silk Dome Tweeter, 4 each , 2 at the base of each a-pillar


----------



## themerc

So how are those 6.5's on midbass?


----------



## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 29 2007, 07:13 PM~9335903
> *So how are those 6.5's on midbass?
> *




you can cross them over at 80 hertz and get good mid bass , but don't exceed rms 

you can cross them over at 100 hertz , give up a bit of midbass , but feed double rms


were ever you mount them dampen and seal off as well as possible


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet_@Nov 29 2007, 09:01 PM~9335737
> *i switched from my 96 ss impala to an 06 nissan 350z
> *


----------



## themerc

Right now I have the CDT 5.25" components in my doors, and the 5.25's sit inside MDF baffles that are bolted to the sheet metal... so the speakers don't rattle my door at all because they're screwed down very tight... but I don't have the doors deadened, only my entire trunk and rear deck. What do you mean seal off? Did you put deadening over the holes in the sheet metal in your doors?


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## themerc

Amps will be here Monday, sub will be here Tuesday!


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## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Nov 29 2007, 07:34 PM~9336150
> *
> *


was not by choice 

i was on my way to work Pit , and waiting at a red light , an old lady fell asleep at the wheel , jumped over the median and creamed the SS 

the old car 
1996 Impala SS 













the new car 2006 Nissan 350z brand new i got it zero miles


----------



## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 29 2007, 07:35 PM~9336163
> *Right now I have the CDT 5.25" components in my doors, and the 5.25's sit inside MDF baffles that are bolted to the sheet metal... so the speakers don't rattle my door at all because they're screwed down very tight... but I don't have the doors deadened, only my entire trunk and rear deck. What do you mean seal off? Did you put deadening over the holes in the sheet metal in your doors?
> *


my deadening of choice is stinger expert road kill 

deadend inside of interior doors skins 

deadend inside of kickpanels 

deadend inside of door pods


----------



## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 29 2007, 08:05 PM~9336446
> *Amps will be here Monday, sub will be here Tuesday!
> *


was gonna get 2 sundown 3000 's and strap them 

decided to go for a 2007 XXV Hifonics Maxximus instead 















































































2-Channel XXV Maxximus 2 x 2000-Watts....RMS @ 4-Ohms
2 x 3500-Watts....RMS @ 2-Ohms
2 x 5000-Watts....RMS @ 1-Ohm
1 x 7000-Watts....Bridged Mono @ 4-Ohms
1 x 10,000-Watts..Bridged Mono @ 2-Ohms 


thanks gangsta


----------



## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 29 2007, 08:05 PM~9336446
> *Amps will be here Monday, sub will be here Tuesday!
> *



can't find my response 

i was gonna do 2 each sundown 3000 strapped 

but went for a 2007 XXV Hifonics Maxximus 



































































































































2-Channel XXV Maxximus 2 x 2000-Watts....RMS @ 4-Ohms
2 x 3500-Watts....RMS @ 2-Ohms
2 x 5000-Watts....RMS @ 1-Ohm
1 x 7000-Watts....Bridged Mono @ 4-Ohms
1 x 10,000-Watts..Bridged Mono @ 2-Ohms


----------



## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 29 2007, 08:05 PM~9336446
> *Amps will be here Monday, sub will be here Tuesday!
> *



i was gonna strap 2 sundown 3000's together 
but went for a 
2007 XXV Hifonics Maxximus instead 


2-Channel XXV Maxximus 2 x 2000-Watts....RMS @ 4-Ohms
2 x 3500-Watts....RMS @ 2-Ohms
2 x 5000-Watts....RMS @ 1-Ohm
1 x 7000-Watts....Bridged Mono @ 4-Ohms
1 x 10,000-Watts..Bridged Mono @ 2-Ohms


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## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 29 2007, 08:05 PM~9336446
> *Amps will be here Monday, sub will be here Tuesday!
> *



i was gonna strap 2 x sundown 3000's 

but went for a hifonics XXV 2007 Maxximus instead 


2-Channel XXV Maxximus 2 x 2000-Watts....RMS @ 4-Ohms
2 x 3500-Watts....RMS @ 2-Ohms
2 x 5000-Watts....RMS @ 1-Ohm
1 x 7000-Watts....Bridged Mono @ 4-Ohms
1 x 10,000-Watts..Bridged Mono @ 2-Ohms


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## fourdrvet

tried to reply to merc 
post keeps disappering

was gonna do 2 each sundown 3000 starpped 

went with a 2007 hifonics xxv maxximus instead


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet_@Nov 30 2007, 01:44 PM~9340239
> *tried to reply to merc
> post keeps disappering
> 
> was gonna do 2 each sundown 3000 starpped
> 
> went with a 2007 hifonics xxv maxximus instead
> *


That's okay... now it's there at least 3 times lol. So how much did that Hifonics cost?


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## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Nov 30 2007, 01:24 PM~9341323
> *That's okay... now it's there at least 3 times lol. So how much did that Hifonics cost?
> *


retail $10,000

i get them for $2500


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet_@Nov 30 2007, 04:29 PM~9341362
> *retail $10,000
> 
> i get them for $2500
> *


Which Fi is that / what options did you choose?


----------



## fourdrvet

$10,000 retail 

$2500 my cost


----------



## fourdrvet

fi 12" DVC BTL 
full spl 
3/4" mdf 
1.5" baffle 
40 hertz


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## themerc

Why'd you get such a big amp for a single BTL?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet+Nov 30 2007, 10:41 AM~9339308-->
> 
> 
> 
> was not by choice
> 
> i was on my way to work Pit , and waiting at a red light , an old lady fell asleep at the wheel , jumped over the median and creamed the SS
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thats one of my biggest fears and why I never drive my 96 SS
> *pours out a 40oz for your SS*
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-themerc_@Nov 30 2007, 04:52 PM~9341910
> *Why'd you get such a big amp for a single BTL?
> *


to beat the dog shit out of it on tha mic  :dunno:


----------



## Supaf|y in the Ky

thats a huge ass amp! :0 :0


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## themerc

I'm going to start on the box tomorrow. Ignore that bracing.


----------



## themerc

I've decided to brace it all with 1.5"x3.5" pieces of wood. I cut half my pieces today. Here's the bottom piece of the box to give you an idea how it fits in the trunk.


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## fourdrvet

QUOTE(themerc @ Nov 30 2007, 04:52 PM) 
Why'd you get such a big amp for a single BTL?


to beat the dog shit out of it on tha mic 


^^^^^^pit told you why ^^^^^^^^^

the get higher numbers


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## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by Supaf|y in the Ky_@Nov 30 2007, 10:07 PM~9345527
> *thats a huge ass amp!  :0  :0
> *



true


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## themerc

:cheesy:


----------



## redline

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet_@Nov 30 2007, 11:50 AM~9339369
> *was gonna get 2 sundown 3000 's and strap them
> 
> decided to go for a 2007 XXV Hifonics Maxximus instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 2-Channel XXV Maxximus 2 x 2000-Watts....RMS @ 4-Ohms
> 2 x 3500-Watts....RMS @ 2-Ohms
> 2 x 5000-Watts....RMS @ 1-Ohm
> 1 x 7000-Watts....Bridged Mono @ 4-Ohms
> 1 x 10,000-Watts..Bridged Mono @ 2-Ohms
> thanks gangsta
> *


dayum homie you got that big azz amp for that one sub?


----------



## Sporty

can we please erase the images when we get ready to quote. ... I fell like i've seen those pics a thousand times


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 3 2007, 06:34 PM~9364500
> *can we please erase the images when we get ready to quote. ... I fell like i've seen those pics a thousand times
> *


x2... page 5 has the same pictures at least 3 times... Brian?


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## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by redline_@Dec 3 2007, 03:19 PM~9364385
> *dayum homie you got that big azz amp for that one sub?
> *



Al Dante uses 4 stetsom 7k vulcan's strapped on 1 each 18" digital designs sub and does over 180 db on the tl

that's like 20-25 thousand watts on 1 sub and he has got God knows how many power master batteries so if he is maintaining 14 volts he is doing 25K watts on 1 sub


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet_@Dec 3 2007, 08:17 PM~9365743
> *Al Dante uses 4 stetsom 7k vulcan's strapped on 1 each 18" digital designs sub and does over 180 db on the tl
> 
> that's like  20-25 thousand watts on 1 sub and he has got God knows how many power master batteries so if he is maintaining 14 volts he is doing 25K watts on 1 sub
> *


he knows what he is doing and DD's cooling is amazing :biggrin:


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## redline

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet_@Dec 3 2007, 09:17 PM~9365743
> *Al Dante uses 4 stetsom 7k vulcan's strapped on 1 each 18" digital designs sub and does over 180 db on the tl
> 
> that's like  20-25 thousand watts on 1 sub and he has got God knows how many power master batteries so if he is maintaining 14 volts he is doing 25K watts on 1 sub
> *


u just lost me homie!lmao but what ever u said sounds good to me! :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

1000D...




























100.4...


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## themerc

The customer service for these amps is amazing! 

I didn't know what to set all these controls to, so I made a thread on SSA... and the owner of Sundown Audio answered my 12 questions.


----------



## themerc

What size wire should I use for the sub?


----------



## BIGMIKE

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 4 2007, 08:08 PM~9375900
> *What size wire should I use for the sub?
> *


10 GA should work fine


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 4 2007, 09:44 PM~9374765
> *The customer service for these amps is amazing!
> 
> I didn't know what to set all these controls to, so I made a thread on SSA... and the owner of Sundown Audio answered my 12 questions.
> *


You're welcome...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 5 2007, 07:45 AM~9378135
> *You're welcome...
> *


Thank you Brian


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 4 2007, 09:44 PM~9374765
> *The customer service for these amps is amazing!
> 
> I didn't know what to set all these controls to, so I made a thread on SSA... and the owner of Sundown Audio answered my 12 questions.
> *


Send both of them to me! I'll make a vid on how to set them uffin:

dont know if you'll get them back though :biggrin:

gotta figure out if i wanna keep going with the audio world or not. baggin the truck has been on my mind alot lately (kinda not "entertained" as much by car audio anymore). And what i planned on doing (4 IDQ10V3, saz 1500, BP blow through, upgraded alt and under hood wiring, 2nd batt, and upgrade the HU) would cost as much as it would for me to get a nice suspension set up.


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## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by redline_@Dec 4 2007, 02:34 PM~9372315
> *u just lost me homie!lmao but what ever u said sounds good to me! :biggrin:
> *



al dante 
uses 
1 each 18" sub woofer 

with 4 each stetsom 7k vulcan amps 


the amps do rated power at 13 volts 

4 x 7000= 28,000 watts on 1 sub 

caught up?


----------



## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 4 2007, 04:08 PM~9373003
> *
> 
> 
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> 1000D...
> 
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> 100.4...
> 
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> 
> *


]



congrats enjoy i love your amps


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## fourdrvet

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 4 2007, 09:08 PM~9375900
> *What size wire should I use for the sub?
> *



8 awg from amp to box terminals 

8 awg from inside box terminals to voice coils


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by fourdrvet_@Dec 5 2007, 04:50 PM~9380914
> *8 awg from amp to box terminals
> 
> 8 awg from inside  box terminals to voice coils
> *


I don't use box terminals... just drill a hole in the box and seal around the wire. I'm not sure 8 gauge will fit in on the subs.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 5 2007, 05:58 PM~9381880
> *I don't use box terminals... just drill a hole in the box and seal around the wire. I'm not sure 8 gauge will fit in on the subs.
> *


Your not using enough power for 8guage. 10 guage is plenty. your run wont be more then 5 or so feet any how... if you were sittin there trying to push 4k to the voice coils, then i'll say make the move to 8guage :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

Well I unhooked my kicker 350.2 and attached my new 100.4 to the old amp rack temporarily and hooked up the front channels. I need another RCA cable to hookup the rear speakers and some 16 gauge.

I really like the sundown's power light... instead of being a dim green light like on the kickers, it's a neon blue light on the side of the amp that makes a wide beam of blue.

This amp rack setup sucks. The sundown's have all their controls and RCA's on the left side and their speaker terminals and power/ground/remote terminals on the right side. I put the 100.4 on the left side of my old amp rack, and now the controls are on the far left side and you have to shift the whole amp rack and use a flashlight to see the controls... then adjust them. I need a better amp rack setup. Maybe I should build a new rack and put the amps at like a 30 degree angle with their left sides farther forward. That way, I can adjust the controls easier... I mean it doesn't take as much vision and skill to get the wires in the terminals.


----------



## Sporty

so wait... the only thing that was impressive about the amp was it's LED? how about performance compared to the kicker? was it worth the swap? now that you've tried it, would you have stuck with thekicker


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 7 2007, 08:59 AM~9395478
> *so wait... the only thing that was impressive about the amp was it's LED? how about performance compared to the kicker? was it worth the swap? now that you've tried it, would you have stuck with thekicker
> *


Well right now it's only hooked up to the front speakers like the Kicker... and it sounds very similar. The gain is at 1/2 and I think it's a little bit less powerful than the Kicker but I don't remember exactly what I had the Kicker gain set to... I want to say a little over 1/2. Maybe I'll take my car up to my local shop and see what they think... if I can turn the gain up more.

The Kicker was rated at [email protected] and the Sundown is [email protected]


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 8 2007, 12:33 AM~9401857
> *Well right now it's only hooked up to the front speakers like the Kicker... and it sounds very similar. The gain is at 1/2 and I think it's a little bit less powerful than the Kicker but I don't remember exactly what I had the Kicker gain set to... I want to say a little over 1/2. Maybe I'll take my car up to my local shop and see what they think... if I can turn the gain up more.
> 
> The Kicker was rated at [email protected] and the Sundown is [email protected]
> *


you wont notice any real difference in output on the mids/highs since both are good quality amps and put out the same amount of power. One amp might sound a little cleaner but thats doubtful if they are/were both setup the right way and not clipped to hell. Now if you were to step up to some really nice components in the front you could bridge the SD amp and it will be a difference in sound ... As of now , the major upgrade in your system imo is the sub, you will notice that right off the bat :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

Okay I got the 5x7's hooked up to the 100.4... it sounds much better. The 5x7's give it more depth. I have the gains at 1/2 for both the 5.25's and the 5x7's and I don't hear any distortion at volume 30/40 with the EQ on flat. I was a little surprised, because the 5.25's were rated for about 100 rms watts and the 5x7's are rated for 60 rms watts.

Now my question is, is it normal for the amp to be warm when playing? I was playing music for 45-60 minutes... not always at 30/40 volume though.


----------



## themerc

...I want another 100.4 and 4 more speakers :biggrin:


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 8 2007, 03:19 PM~9404633
> *Okay I got the 5x7's hooked up to the 100.4... it sounds much better. The 5x7's give it more depth. I have the gains at 1/2 for both the 5.25's and the 5x7's and I don't hear any distortion at volume 30/40 with the EQ on flat. I was a little surprised, because the 5.25's were rated for about 100 rms watts and the 5x7's are rated for 60 rms watts.
> 
> Now my question is, is it normal for the amp to be warm when playing? I was playing music for 45-60 minutes... not always at 30/40 volume though.
> *


they are supposed to get warm but not hot...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 8 2007, 04:30 PM~9404674
> *they are supposed to get warm but not hot...
> *


Okay then I'm good.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 8 2007, 03:33 PM~9404688
> *Okay then I'm good.
> *


[yes] you are
now get the fukn sub installed :angry:  :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 8 2007, 05:18 PM~9404892
> *[yes] you are
> now get the fukn sub installed  :angry:    :biggrin:
> *


I've got work tonight 6-12, but I'm going to try to finish building the box tomorrow.


----------



## themerc

Alright, now I have engine noise. If I turn off the engine and turn the key forward like I'm going to start it, and the radio comes on, I get engine noise and the noise revs when I press the gas. I get engine noise when the engine is on too, but I'm not sure if the noise revs when I rev the engine (I have straight pipes so it's pretty loud).

I didn't used to get engine noise when I had the kickers... I only got it when I was playing music through my ipod and the ipod was charging through the cigarette lighter at the same time.

I used the same ground for the sundown... so I don't know why it would be any different. My amp ground is 4 gauge from the amp terminal to the distribution block, then 1/0 gauge from the distribution block to the metal. There's less than a foot of 4 gauge and like 2-2.5 feet of 1/0 gauge.

I ran my RCA's on the left side of the car, and my power wire on the right side of the car. My ground is on the left side of the car near the RCA's. 

What do you guys think it is? The amp ground? The headunit?


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## Pitbullx

ah the dreaded engine noise...

do another ground
try another set of rca's


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 9 2007, 10:29 PM~9412779
> *ah the dreaded engine noise...
> 
> do another ground
> try another set of rca's
> *


Okay, when I unplug my rear speakers RCA cable from the amp... the engine noise goes away. That RCA cable is a Tsunami Elite Series V10-20... the exact same cable I have going to the front speakers.


----------



## Pitbullx

so the noise is only coming from the rear speakers?

swap the front and rear rca's out and see what happens.

if the noise appears in the front speakers then its the rca's
if not its either the hu or the amp


----------



## WhitePapi2006

TTT


----------



## themerc

Alright I switched the RCA's and it was still there. I only get it when the pre-out rear RCA is being used. The guy at the stereo shop said try grounding the RCA to the headunit chassis.


----------



## WhitePapi2006

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 10 2007, 08:14 PM~9421350
> *Alright I switched the RCA's and it was still there. I only get it when the pre-out rear RCA is being used. The guy at the stereo shop said try grounding the RCA to the headunit chassis.
> *


hey now how in the hell do you ground a RCA????? to the head unit??


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by WhitePapi2006_@Dec 11 2007, 08:00 AM~9424375
> *hey now how in the hell do you ground a RCA????? to the head unit??
> *


take speaker wire, wrap it around ur rca females (on the HU), and screw it down to the HU (or cage) through an existing screw.... i dont do it and dont plan on doing it.... i'd do one of those engine noise suppressors before i do that... but i've been able to trouble shoot engine noise problems...

i wonder why the kicker didnt have a problem nut the sun down did


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 11 2007, 09:13 AM~9424398
> *take speaker wire, wrap it around ur rca females (on the HU), and screw it down to the HU (or cage) through an existing screw....  i dont do it and dont plan on doing it.... i'd do one of those engine noise suppressors before i do that... but i've been able to trouble shoot engine noise problems...
> 
> i wonder why the kicker didnt have a problem nut the sun down did
> *


Why?

And with the kicker 350.2 I only used 1 RCA cable, the front pre-amp output on the headunit... with the sundown 100.4 I'm using the front and the rear pre-amp outputs and 2 RCA cables.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 11 2007, 03:20 PM~9427113
> *Why?
> 
> And with the kicker 350.2 I only used 1 RCA cable, the front pre-amp output on the headunit... with the sundown 100.4 I'm using the front and the rear pre-amp outputs and 2 RCA cables.
> *


could it be a problem with your rear preamp output (i think it is)? And i would use a engine noise supressor before i ground the rca's because at least it's hard wired into the system (compared to rigging it: wrapping bare wire around female preamp posts and screwing it down to the cage/chassis of the HU).

If you run the rca from your HU's rear preamp output to your amps front... (and you hear the engine noise)... get another HU. if not, then somethings wrong with your amps rear input.


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## themerc

Okay...I unplugged ALL the RCA's and my ipod AUX wire from my headunit, turned the key forward (radio comes on but not engine), put the headunit on mute, pressed the gas, and I hear a high frequency go up and down in unison with my gas pedal through the speakers. 

When I turn on the engine the noise doesn't go up and down like before... it's just like a faint static when I put the headunit on mute and I think it's still there when I play music.


----------



## Sporty

that is DEFINETLY a power/ground issue. I delt with this with my truck just two weeks ago. i disconnected front and rear RCA's from my usamps and cut the truck on and there was a whine noise... checked my fuses and what not, everythings good... so i take it upon myself to go under the truck and see how the piece of metal i'm grounding too is connected to the chassis (which my batt is grounded too)... come to find out, rubber bushings everywhere. I grounded in the area i grounded my directed D2400 (which turned out to be the best ground point in the cabin) and hey hey... no noise at all.

if you got two amp getting fed from the same power source (batt), but are grounded in two different area of the car (that do not have the same quality connection to the grounding point), your going to get whine of the one that is on the lesser end of quality. 

Thats my take on it anyways... hope this helps


----------



## themerc

Yeah I'm going to make a new headunit ground. I'm also going to build a new amp rack and re-do my ground setup for the amps.

Okay, my box building has officially begun... I have 3 pieces together lol. 

Oh yeah, my Q15 didn't come with a template. What do you guys do? Put the sub face down on the board, trace the outside of the gasket ring, then take take the gasket ring off the sub, align it with the drawn circle, then trace the inside of it?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 12 2007, 06:01 PM~9437541
> *Yeah I'm going to make a new headunit ground. I'm also going to build a new amp rack and re-do my ground setup for the amps.
> 
> Okay, my box building has officially begun... I have 3 pieces together lol.
> 
> Oh yeah, my Q15 didn't come with a template. What do you guys do? Put the sub face down on the board, trace the outside of the gasket ring, then take take the gasket ring off the sub, align it with the drawn circle, then trace the inside of it?
> *


before you go making shit pretty and hiding your runs, just try different areas (grounding your amps to the same piece of metal) ... at this point, your in trial and error mode. once you find a good area, then plan out your next amp rack accordingly...


----------



## themerc

Alright, what about the sub thing, is that how you guys do it?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 12 2007, 08:45 PM~9438879
> *Alright, what about the sub thing, is that how you guys do it?
> *


pretty much bro...

and it did come with one... that cut out that your sub was sitting in inside the box is your speaker cut out


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 12 2007, 10:20 PM~9439277
> *and it did come with one... that cut out that your sub was sitting in inside the box is your speaker cut out
> *


Nope, it wasn't sitting in a cutout. The magnet was sitting in a mini-box with padding and the sub was wrapped in plastic wrapper, and then there were little pads holding the sub down. That was it.










That's after I ripped the pads holding the sub down off and took the sub out of the plastic wrapper.


----------



## Pitbullx

get a circle jig and cut away *****


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 12 2007, 10:23 PM~9439909
> *Nope, it wasn't sitting in a cutout. The magnet was sitting in a mini-box with padding and the sub was wrapped in plastic wrapper, and then there were little pads holding the sub down. That was it.
> 
> 
> That's after I ripped the pads holding the sub down off and took the sub out of the plastic wrapper.
> *


well, this is how i do it, might be wierd or lengthy, but it's never failed and i always have VERY good cut outs since i've been doing it.

take the gasket off and trace the sub (as well as mark the mounting holes... stick your pencil through the hole, easy). Then i measure from the outer flang to the basket. then i mark (on my drawing) that length 4 times. Then i find the center. Then i take a nail, thread, and pencil and draw the circle(making sure i hit those marks consistently). Once done, i cut out on the INSIDE of my circle drawing (not on the line, not outside the line). 

Normally it would be just a TAD too small of a cut-out, and thats when the Dewalt comes into play... take maybe 2 min to sand the hold open JUST enough for the sub to lay flush on its own wieght (without me pressing it in.. you dont want to do that).

and if it's good.. i'll cut out the entire speaker cut out and save it so i dont have to go through that LONG ass process. At that point, for whatever size woofer that is... if i want to flush mount it, i have a "stencil" for it, and i have a "stencil" for the mounting hold as well... all in one shot...

do keep in mind that all 12"ers or what not dont have the same out flange demension or mounting cutout but they're very close and depending on if you cut on the line, outside the line, or inside the line... it should compensate


----------



## themerc

I actually hadn't planned on flushmounting the sub...

The baffle is 1.5" thick, would I lose structural integrity by screwing the sub into the inside piece and cutting the outer sub hole in the outside piece?


----------



## themerc

I think I'm going to surface mount it. I've drawn out a graph of lines on my baffle every 4 square inches to put a 1.25" screw to clamp the MDF boards together good when the glue is drying. I'll probably have to remove a couple screws when I cut the sub hole.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 13 2007, 10:47 PM~9449240
> *I'll probably have to remove a couple screws when I cut the sub hole.
> *


Mark cutout first, don't put screws there...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 13 2007, 09:10 PM~9448157
> *I actually hadn't planned on flushmounting the sub...
> 
> The baffle is 1.5" thick, would I lose structural integrity by screwing the sub into the inside piece and cutting the outer sub hole in the outside piece?
> *


well of course your screws wont grab 1.5" of wood but only .75" (the top sheet is big enough to let the woofer get to the 2nd sheet where the mounting hole is cut) so the integrity would be compromised. not to say the .75" wouldnt be sufficient being that its only .75" for the diameter of the sub and that area is supported by the 2nd panel.

for this woofer i would double panel but i was talking about is making a universtal cutout tracer... just cause its set up to trace out for a flush mount dont mean you got to use it on the project your on (you might get some cvr15 project and flush mounting will be great for it.. sub's not heavy enough to need 1.5" to grap)


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 8 2007, 10:25 AM~9403083
> *you wont notice any real difference in output on the mids/highs since both are good quality amps and put out the same amount of power.  One amp might sound a little cleaner but thats doubtful if they are/were both setup the right way and not clipped to hell.  Now if you were to step up to some really nice components in the front you could bridge the SD amp and it will be a difference in sound ...  As of now , the major upgrade in your system imo is the sub, you will notice that right off the bat :cheesy:
> *


I sure hope this sub owns my kickers. There's too many kids bumping pioneers in sealed boxes thinking they're bad.


----------



## themerc

Alright we have a problem. Tonight I was driving from Orlando to Jacksonville doing about 85mph in the left lane on I95 and then all of a sudden my music went out, my dashboard lights went out, and my headlights went out. I somehow managed to pullover without getting killed. I popped the trunk and felt my amp. It was extremely hot. I unplugged the power, ground, and remote wires and left the engine running until my battery recharged, then I got back on I95. I was playing music at like 25/40 volume. 

What do you guys think the problem is?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 15 2007, 07:42 PM~9461076
> *Alright we have a problem. Tonight I was driving from Orlando to Jacksonville doing about 85mph in the left lane on I95 and then all of a sudden my music went out, my dashboard lights went out, and my headlights went out. I somehow managed to pullover without getting killed. I popped the trunk and felt my amp. It was extremely hot. I unplugged the power, ground, and remote wires and left the engine running until my battery recharged, then I got back on I95. I was playing music at like 25/40 volume.
> 
> What do you guys think the problem is?
> *


The problem is you don't have near enough current to support those amps, like several of us have I tried to tell you...

Your alt. couldn't recharge your battery as fast as you were pulling current out of it...

The amp got hot because you were running it WAY under current for what it needs, adding resistance, creating heat...

If you keep doing that, you WILL kill that amp...

Pony up for a h/o alt. and a 2400 batt for the trunk man...


----------



## themerc

I was only running the 100.4... the 1000D wasn't even in the car. It turns out I don't have a choice now. I got the alternator tested and it's dead... 135A and it's only 2 years old. Looks like I'm getting a H/O alternator now. Thank god for Christmas...


----------



## themerc

Alright, I just emailed Dominick at Iraggi Alternators. I emailed Nate at Excessive Amperage back in August and this is what he said...



> *I can custom build you the following that will be 100% NEW and will bolt on with no modifications :
> 
> 200 amp $320
> 250 amp $405
> 300 amp $495
> 
> These prices also include shipping and insurance via FedEx and I could ship the alternator out today.
> 
> This will be close to what you will get:
> 200 amp - 110 @ idle
> 250 amp - 130 @ idle
> 300 amp - 150 @ idle*


I sure hope Dominick has lower prices.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 15 2007, 10:09 PM~9461780
> *I sure hope Dominick has lower prices.
> *


He doesn't, I can just about promise you that...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 16 2007, 05:15 AM~9463315
> *He doesn't, I can just about promise you that...
> *


Who do you recommend buying from? I need a new alternator fast. I'm not replacing a working stock alternator in a show car... I'm replacing a dead alternator in my daily driver.


----------



## themerc

I emailed Excessive Amperage, Iraggi Alternators, Ohio Generator High Amp Alternators, and High Output Alternators. 

Is the amps at idle the most important thing?
What kind of voltage will I get now?
How many amps does my car need without the stereo?
How many amps do you think my 135A alternator put out at idle?


----------



## Pitbullx

Id get a 240--260amp alt


----------



## themerc

Why not 300?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian+Dec 15 2007, 09:05 PM~9461498-->
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is you don't have near enough current to support those amps, like several of us have I tried to tell you...
> 
> Your alt. couldn't recharge your battery as fast as you were pulling current out of it...
> 
> The amp got hot because you were running it WAY under current for what it needs, adding resistance, creating heat...
> 
> If you keep doing that, you WILL kill that amp...
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> quoted for truf!
> 
> and +1 for me calling teh bad alternator on AIM
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-themerc_@Dec 15 2007, 10:09 PM~9461780
> *Alright, I just emailed Dominick at Iraggi Alternators. I emailed Nate at Excessive Amperage back in August and this is what he said...
> I sure hope Dominick has lower prices.
> *


you gotta pay to play 

I paid about 400-425 for my large case 260amp alt from Dom


----------



## themerc

NOTE: The port and front baffle pieces are not attached to the bottom piece yet. I just put them there to give you guys an idea what it will look like. I still have to put 3 vertical 1.5"x3.5" braces in there.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 16 2007, 09:54 PM~9466483
> *Id get a 240--260amp alt
> *


My car idles at 600-800 rpms (I don't have a tach. but people say the civilian panthers idle at 600 and the interceptors at 800). My amps will pull between 101-116 amps (1400-1600 watts/ 13.8 volts). Is a 250 amp (130 at idle) alternator enough to run everything in my car at idle and still crank my system, or would I be better off with a 300 amp (150 at idle)?


----------



## themerc

Well Nate's prices went up $15, but they were still much lower than Ohio Generator's and High Output Alternator's prices. I'm still waiting on Iraggi Alternators.


----------



## themerc

I'm thinking a 250 amp alternator, 1 kinetik hc1800 under the hood, and another hc1800 in the trunk... sound good?


----------



## themerc

I'm putting 2 more vertical 1.5"x3.5" braces in there... attached to the front baffle, one on each side of the sub.


----------



## Pitbullx

now that I look at it, the sub might not like that design


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 18 2007, 09:17 PM~9479625
> *now that I look at it, the sub might not like that design
> *


.......... :uh:


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 18 2007, 08:17 PM~9479625
> *now that I look at it, the sub might not like that design
> *


I don't think the back wave is going to load properly in that box...


----------



## themerc

The vertical 1.5"x3.5", the baffle, and port aren't permanent yet, if that makes any difference. Can someone please explain to me in depth what's wrong with this box... after I've spent hours and hours building it?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 18 2007, 08:24 PM~9479690
> *The vertical 1.5"x3.5", the baffle, and port aren't permanent yet, if that makes any difference. Can someone please explain to me in depth what's wrong with this box... after I've spent hours and hours building it?
> *


The back wave is going to be fed directly into the port, that usually doesn't work well...

At this point, finish it and throw the sub in and see what happens, may surprise me and be just fine for you...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 18 2007, 09:26 PM~9479703
> *The back wave is going to be fed directly into the port, that usually doesn't work well...
> 
> At this point, finish it and throw the sub in and see what happens, may surprise me and be just fine for you...
> *












That's what permanent right now. The baffle, port piece, and vertical brace aren't actually attached to the bottom/side pieces.


----------



## Pitbullx

that whole design is funky as all hell... it looks like its going to have some weird acoustics....

put that shit together and test it out


----------



## themerc

Should I redo the port like this? I REALLY want to do this right the first time and not waste all this time and money on this box.


----------



## Sporty

the thing is, you want the port opening as far away from the woofer as possible... the way you have it now, the port opening is just a bit off from the sub's vent pole.... 

tellin you bro, been there, done that... what sucks is money and time is already spent once you realize it.

But your about done with it bro, you might as well should see what it comes out to be... but you'll always have that "i wonder what it woulda sounded like if..." in your mind. The box isn't gonna suck (it'll still be decent) but it's not going to be optimal.

think of how easy it would of been to just make a rectangle box, cut two holes out and insert two 4" flares...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 19 2007, 12:21 PM~9483608
> *the thing is, you want the port opening as far away from the woofer as possible... the way you have it now, the port opening is just a bit off from the sub's vent pole....
> 
> tellin you bro, been there, done that... what sucks is money and time is already spent once you realize it.
> 
> But your about done with it bro, you might as well should see what it comes out to be... but you'll always have that "i wonder what it woulda sounded like if..." in your mind. The box isn't gonna suck (it'll still be decent) but it's not going to be optimal.
> 
> think of how easy it would of been to just make a rectangle box, cut two holes out and insert two 4" flares...
> *


I can just make a new front baffle with the sub as far to the right as possible then? The moderators on SSA just said move the sub cutout to the right, put some 45 degree wedges in the port, and round over the corners more.

And I couldn't make a regular rectangular box without putting the sub like 1" from the trunk wall... and two 4" flares wouldn't give me enough port area.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 19 2007, 03:34 PM~9485180
> *I can just make a new front baffle with the sub as far to the right as possible then? The moderators on SSA just said move the sub cutout to the right, put some 45 degree wedges in the port, and round over the corners more.
> 
> And I couldn't make a regular rectangular box without putting the sub like 1" from the trunk wall... and two 4" flares wouldn't give me enough port area.
> *


now now... calm yourself uffin: two 4" flares would do that driver justice for what your doing... i'm telling you, there's different formula's used to arrive at certain specs depending on if your slot venting or flared porting.

but what do i know... :biggrin: 

<<before pit says it>>
nothing!


but anyhow, i think the SSA mod gave you the best advice you could have without scraping the entire enclosure... that's about as best as it's going to get for what you already have constructed


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 19 2007, 05:57 PM~9485688
> *but anyhow, i think the SSA mod gave you the best advice you could have without scraping the entire enclosure... that's about as best as it's going to get for what you already have constructed
> *



Well I bought a black and decker router tonight so I don't have to sand edges for 30 minutes to try to get them rounded. I'm going to attempt to make some 45 degree wedges too. I may or may not move the sub to the right... I really like how the sub is centered on the box.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 19 2007, 04:57 PM~9485688
> *now now... calm yourself uffin: two 4" flares would do that driver justice for what your doing... i'm telling you, there's different formula's used to arrive at certain specs depending on if your slot venting or flared porting.
> 
> but what do i know...  :biggrin:
> 
> <<before pit says it>>
> nothing!
> but anyhow, i think the SSA mod gave you the best advice you could have without scraping the entire enclosure... that's about as best as it's going to get for what you already have constructed
> *


25in of port isnt enough for a 4cube enclosure gnub :uh: 
and you know nothing


----------



## themerc

I ordered from Nate after all. 250A (140-150A @ idle). I also ordered 2 Kinetik hc1800 batteries on ebay for $390 shipped. Now I just need to order some knukonceptz kolossus 1/0 gauge.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 19 2007, 08:05 PM~9487297
> *25in of port isnt enough for a 4cube enclosure gnub  :uh:
> and you know nothing
> *


my bad... i didnt realize it was a 4 cubed enclosure.. for some reason i had 2.75 in my head... :biggrin: :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

Okay. I want to wire my two kinetik hc1800's in parallel correct?

Would one of you guys mind drawing me a diagram? Thanks guys.


----------



## Pitbullx

+ to + and - to - on teh batts

1/0 + from alt to under hood batt 
1/0 - from under hood batt

end of discussion


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 20 2007, 06:29 PM~9494121
> *1/0 + from alt to under hood batt
> 1/0 -  from under hood batt
> *


I'm not sure if I understood that part... is this what you're saying?


----------



## Pitbullx

yep


----------



## themerc

Okay. Kolossus or Kolossus Fleks? I'm going to cover all wire in the engine bay with split loom.


----------



## Brahma Brian

Ground the rear battery to the frame as well...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 20 2007, 09:06 PM~9495448
> *Ground the rear battery to the frame as well...
> *


Okay.

Should I ground my amps on the battery negative? Or on the chassis?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 20 2007, 08:14 PM~9495505
> *Okay.
> 
> Should I ground my amps on the battery negative? Or on the chassis?
> *


On the battery to make things easy, just put a distro terminal on the battery...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc+Dec 20 2007, 07:48 PM~9495299-->
> 
> 
> 
> Okay. Kolossus or Kolossus Fleks? I'm going to cover all wire in the engine bay with split loom.
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> doesnt matter
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-themerc_@Dec 20 2007, 08:14 PM~9495505
> *Okay.
> 
> Should I ground my amps on the battery negative? Or on the chassis?
> *


battery


----------



## themerc

Well I routered my port edges, sanded them, and I did try to make 45 degree wedges, but I was unsuccessful... my jigsaw is a piece of shit. Instead, I did the self-leveling wedges with glue.


----------



## themerc

Hey I was told that having on battery under the hood and one in the trunk would cause one to charge faster because of the differences in length and would fuck with the batteries. They said move both to the trunk. What's your take?


----------



## Pitbullx

what rocket scientist told you that?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 24 2007, 07:42 AM~9519651
> *what rocket scientist told you that?
> *


My neighbor lol, so what's the deal?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 24 2007, 11:14 AM~9520255
> *My neighbor lol, so what's the deal?
> *


neighbor is a fucking idiot....

1 underhood
1 in trunk close to amps


----------



## themerc

Well my batteries should be here today. I ordered 40 feet of knukonceptz kolossus 1/0 gauge wire this morning. My alternator should ship out today, but we'll see. I'm going to try to get the resin 45's done today. I may start building my amp rack today too.


----------



## themerc

Well to make a long story short, my new hc1800 won't fit under the hood under any circumstances. I'm trying to figure out what to do...

Relocate both hc1800's to the trunk and have no battery under the hood?

Put both hc1800's in the trunk and use my duralast gold under the hood?

Use one hc1800 in the trunk, use the duralast gold under the hood, and return one hc1800?

Other option?


----------



## Pitbullx

i asked about the dmm because If the duralast is strong Id run it underhood and use both Kinetiks in the trunk.... the alt will support them just fine


----------



## themerc

What do I need to do?


----------



## Pitbullx

check the voltage on the battery....


----------



## themerc

Which setting do I put the DMM on? I forgot.


----------



## Pitbullx

v


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 26 2007, 04:23 PM~9534965
> *v
> *


V- or V~, what number?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 26 2007, 03:02 PM~9534851
> *Put both hc1800's in the trunk and use my duralast gold under the hood?
> *


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 26 2007, 07:50 PM~9536444
> *
> *


What do I do, put a PAC-200 in between the duralast and one of the hc1800's, then put both the hc1800's in parallel?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 26 2007, 03:28 PM~9534991
> *V- or V~, what number?
> *


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 26 2007, 06:51 PM~9536456
> *What do I do, put a PAC-200 in between the duralast and one of the hc1800's, then put both the hc1800's in parallel?
> *


If you want to do an isolator, you'll want it between the Duralast and the batteries in the rear...

Since you drive the car every day and don't play it with the car off, parallel all the batts together and it'll be fine...

Just make your run of 1/0 off the + of the Duralast back to the HC1800's in the rear...

Your making it more complicated than it has to be...


----------



## themerc

I just thought if they were different in any way the batteries would kill eachother.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 26 2007, 06:57 PM~9536502
> *I just thought if they were different in any way the batteries would kill each other.
> *


If it sits for weeks, that _can_ happen, but in your application it will give you a three battery buffer between the amps and the alt. giving you lots of yummy reserve amperage goodness..


----------



## themerc

lol alright.

Well I fiberglassed 45 degree wedges in my port and in another corner of my box.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 26 2007, 09:55 PM~9537841
> *lol alright.
> 
> Well I fiberglassed 45 degree wedges in my port and in another corner of my box.
> *


pics or it didnt happen :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 26 2007, 11:51 PM~9538209
> *pics or it didnt happen :biggrin:
> *






























I still need to sand, but you get the idea. I was only going to do the 2 port corners, but i mixed too much resin and hardener and I didn't want to waste it... so I used it in the other corner, now I don't know how many more corners I'm willing to spend money on lol.


----------



## themerc

Well I'm about 1/2 done with my battery/amp/crossover rack. The 2 batteries take up a lot of room so I think I'm going to have to build a shelf for my second amp to sit on top of the other... so I'll probably need some sort of fan system.


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah...

Good news! I put the box in the trunk... THE LID CLOSES!

That would've sucked if it didn't fit...


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 27 2007, 06:35 PM~9544357
> *Oh yeah...
> 
> Good news! I put the box in the trunk... THE LID CLOSES!
> 
> That would've sucked if it didn't fit...
> *


Nothing like learning the hard way is there... :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 27 2007, 08:02 PM~9544568
> *Nothing like learning the hard way is there...  :cheesy:
> *


That box is still in my garage. It's become a shelf.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 27 2007, 07:23 PM~9544690
> *That box is still in my garage. It's become a shelf.
> *


You should see the mountain of boxes in my shop, I need to have a bonfire...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 27 2007, 08:27 PM~9544711
> *You should see the mountain of boxes in my shop, I need to have a bonfire...
> *


Good idea, there's 5 in my garage. I need to bring those suckers over to the beach and light em up.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 27 2007, 07:28 PM~9544720
> *Good idea, there's 5 in my garage. I need to bring those suckers over to the beach and light em up.
> *


Difference in my collection and yours, is mine includes two that hold eight 12's each and several for dual 15's, then other assorted boxes...


----------



## Pitbullx

u dont wanna burn mdf... the glue fumes arent too pleasent


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 27 2007, 07:37 PM~9544799
> *u dont wanna burn mdf... the glue fumes arent too pleasent
> *


Not to mention the sealer, resin and carpet, LOL :cheesy:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Dec 27 2007, 08:01 PM~9544949
> *Not to mention the sealer, resin and carpet, LOL  :cheesy:
> *


on 2nd thought Merc go burn ur old boxes in a poorly ventilated place =x


----------



## themerc

I did most of the amp rack today...


----------



## themerc

I need at least 2 ANL fuse holders. My local shop charges $25 each. The best deal I've found so far online is this stinger fuse holder, but it's an open end fuse holder. I don't think that really matters since both fuse holders are going in my trunk, but has anyone used these?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Dec 27 2007, 07:37 PM~9544799
> *u dont wanna burn mdf... the glue fumes arent too pleasent
> *


i was JUST getting ready to say "have you ever smelt that shit lit"... omg

definetly not pleasent


----------



## WhitePapi2006

TTT any new pics of the updates???


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by WhitePapi2006_@Dec 30 2007, 03:54 PM~9565900
> *TTT any new pics of the updates???
> *


have patience young grass hopper... he just posted on the 28th! you expect him to slave through the holidays :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

lol alright...











The resin on the port piece and in the box are drying in the garage. The port opening at the bottom of the box was exactly 3" like I had planned, but at the top it was like 2-7/8", because the left side piece of the box wasn't at a perfect 90 degree angle... more like an 85 degree angle. I crammed a block of wood a hair bigger than 3" long in the top of the port then poured the resin. Hopefully the resin will hold the left side in that position. If not, I'll use the same block of wood to hold it there, then attach the top piece, and the screws will hold it there. (The block is temporary people)









I'm in the process of carpeting the amp/crossover/battery rack.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Dec 30 2007, 03:58 PM~9565926
> *have patience young grass hopper... he just posted on the 28th! you expect him to slave through the holidays :biggrin:
> *


[yes]


----------



## WhitePapi2006

:biggrin: :biggrin:   LOOKING GOOD TTT


----------



## themerc

all carpeted


----------



## themerc

The amp rack is all done... might not look pretty, but it gets the job done.


----------



## Pitbullx

less post more install


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 1 2008, 02:15 PM~9580065
> *less post more install
> *


I don't have my alternator or 1/0 gauge yet... they're in the mail.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 1 2008, 01:34 PM~9580150
> *I don't have my alternator or 1/0 gauge yet... they're in the mail.
> *


:twak:


----------



## Supaf|y in the Ky

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 1 2008, 01:08 PM~9580028
> *The amp rack is all done... might not look pretty, but it gets the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


looks good man :thumbsup:


----------



## WhitePapi2006

so what are you running for highs and mids or have you already said ???


----------



## Pitbullx

CDT components


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by WhitePapi2006_@Jan 1 2008, 06:34 PM~9581335
> *so what are you running for highs and mids or have you already said ???
> *


For now, I'll be using my 5.25" CDT components in the front doors and the MTX 5x7's in the rear deck. But, after working with this fiberglass a little bit I've been considering kick panels with some 6.5's, instead of the 5x7's in the rear. The 5.25's just don't get loud enough for me. They have great highs, but they're lacking in the mids, and my 5x7's are in the rear and hard to appreciate. I think the combination of the 5.25's and 6.5's in the front would be good.


----------



## themerc

Should I drill a hole in my wheelwell and run my battery grounds right down to the frame outside?


----------



## WhitePapi2006

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 2 2008, 10:54 AM~9586910
> *Should I drill a hole in my wheelwell and run my battery grounds right down to the frame outside?
> *


you can do that or run it through the firewall under the glove box


----------



## themerc

I just have to attach the vertical braces, then put the top on.


----------



## themerc

Alright, I've been fucking around with the t-nuts for like an hour now and I just can't get them to work right, do you think I'll be okay if I just use wood screws?


----------



## Pitbullx

um whats the problem nooblet


----------



## themerc

When I try to take the screw out, the t-nut spins in the MDF and the spikes just tear it up. Are you supposed to use glue in addition to hammering the t-nuts in place?


----------



## themerc

Alright, the old alternator is off and I bought a new belt for $20. I also got two 1/0 gauge ANL fuse holders and fuses today. The 1/0 gauge should be here today. Hopefully the alternator will get here too.


----------



## themerc

I got my wire, but no alternator. I sent my payment Dec. 19, 2007 and it's Jan. 3, 2008. :uh:


----------



## Sporty

if i were you, i'd go ahead and run everything and install everything so when the alt comes in, all you gotta do is mount it, put the belt on, and connect that 0 awg to the output post...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 3 2008, 05:07 PM~9597494
> *if i were you, i'd go ahead and run everything and install everything so when the alt comes in, all you gotta do is mount it, put the belt on, and connect that 0 awg to the output post...
> *


Yeah that's what I'm doing. I pulled the old wire out, took the alternator out, and I'm finishing up this box right now. 

Damn it, I forgot to get some speaker wire for the sub.


----------



## themerc

Alternator came! I guess Nate uses FedEx instead of UPS lol.


----------



## themerc

Even better... nothing matches up.

The outlet on the new alternator is on the wrong side and it doesn't match the plug my car has.


----------



## Pitbullx

lmfao

told you to go with Dominick Iraggi


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 3 2008, 05:20 PM~9598137
> *Even better... nothing matches up.
> 
> The outlet on the new alternator is on the wrong side and it doesn't match the plug my car has.
> 
> *


The joys of car audio :biggrin:

as far as the plug: there should be a way you can mod it or maybe some sort of adapter that's out... of coure you need to contact nate about that and see what can happen. The part about the outlet being on the wrong side.... good luck! that sucks man... Not the end of the world though, just a bit of some run around your going to have to do to get shit resolved.

edit: now that i look at it, that's a pretty nice fuck up you got there... do the mounting holes match up?(and it dont look like the pully on the new one will stick out enough to match up to where the old one did)


----------



## themerc

Alright. We've figured out the problem. My car has the police option 135A alternator instead of the normal 130A alternator, even though it was never a police car. Apparently they are completely different alternators. I'm sending the alternator back to Nate and he's sending me the new one.


My old alternator is on the left and Nate's is on the right.


----------



## themerc

The alternator should get back to Nate on Tuesday.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 4 2008, 12:25 PM~9605445
> *The alternator should get back to Nate on Tuesday.
> *


so you dropped the ball on this one then?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 4 2008, 03:11 PM~9606112
> *so you dropped the ball on this one then?
> *


What do you mean? 

I didn't realize there was a massive difference between the 130A and 135A alternators and I didn't mention to Nate I had the 135A alternator. I paid the $13 shipping back to him.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 4 2008, 03:19 PM~9606687
> *What do you mean?
> 
> I didn't realize there was a massive difference between the 130A and 135A alternators and I didn't mention to Nate I had the 135A alternator. I paid the $13 shipping back to him.
> *


Which means he delivered on his end with the information he was given and is still going to make it good with you...


----------



## 1ofaknd

Chalk it up as a 13 dollar mistake on your part.


----------



## Supaf|y in the Ky




----------



## themerc

Just need to caulk the seams, carpet, then drop the sub in.


----------



## themerc

Man, it's a shame my alternator didn't go bad before I bought the SAE-1000D. I bought that and the SAX-100.4 because I didn't want to have to upgrade my battery and alternator. Now I've got 3 big batteries and a 250 amp alternator... I could be running the SAZ-1500D easily.

So how many watts do you think I can run with now?


----------



## Pitbullx

2500-3000


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 6 2008, 02:46 AM~9618469
> *2500-3000
> *


Man, it's a shame I'm selling my car in June. 2 SAE-1000D's and 2 SAX-100.4's would be sick.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 6 2008, 10:47 AM~9619929
> *Man, it's a shame I'm selling my car in June. 2 SAE-1000D's and 2 SAX-100.4's would be sick.
> *


no need for that many mids/highs in your car unless you were using components and going active/bridging... you could always transplant your system into your new ride


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 6 2008, 04:48 PM~9621506
> *you could always transplant your system into your new ride
> *


Yeah I plan to take the sub, amps, batteries, and wires with me. I'll probably leave the speakers and headunit (and alternator) in the car when I sell it.


----------



## themerc

I finished caulking the seams today. I might get to carpeting tonight or tomorrow.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 6 2008, 04:19 PM~9621702
> *Yeah I plan to take the sub, amps, batteries, and wires with me. I'll probably leave the speakers and headunit (and alternator) in the car when I sell it.
> *


bad move gnub
sell that bitch online or see if Nate has an exchange/swap program


----------



## WhitePapi2006

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 6 2008, 06:24 PM~9622997
> *bad move gnub
> sell that bitch online or see if Nate has an exchange/swap program
> *


x2 :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

Good point, I never thought of that. I think stock alternators are like $160.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 6 2008, 10:50 PM~9624853
> *Good point, I never thought of that. I think stock alternators are like $160.
> *


junkyard ***** junkyard


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 7 2008, 12:20 AM~9625252
> *junkyard ***** junkyard
> *


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## Airborne

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 6 2008, 09:50 PM~9624853
> *Good point, I never thought of that. I think stock alternators are like $160.
> *



I kept the original alt from my truck, and when I sell the truck the old one is going back in.


----------



## Brahma Brian

Even better, pay someone to get the one you have working...

Which I would do anyway, in case the h/o quits and has to be shipped back for repair...


----------



## Sporty

what size alt did you get again?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 7 2008, 02:17 PM~9630203
> *what size alt did you get again?
> *


250A at 2000 rpms and 150A at idle


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 7 2008, 03:26 PM~9631128
> *250A at 2000 rpms and 150A at idle
> *


so its that cool for 250a alt?

 

so wait, with two HC1800's (w/ third underhood batt) and a 250a alt, pit is saying you can run no more then ~3kwRMS collected correctly?

i think my system will be swinging ~3800rms all together, so im guessing i'll need two HC2000 (or maybe something from odyssey) and try and swing a 315a alt? I'm going for air-ride as well (but im gonna try and get mounts fabbed up for a belt driven compressor)

i would LOVE to be able to mount both batt's underhood but i dont know how all this shit will work out... it's looking like i better get the airride installed before i step up to the blow through project... I know things are going to get moved around to allow the wheels to tuck so... dont wanna go through the work just to have to pay someone to move it around


----------



## themerc

Can you even find a 315A alternator for your truck? And if I remember correctly, there was like a $35 shipped price difference between the hc2000's and hc2400's on ebay.

I got some 4 gauge for the amp power wires and some 12 gauge wire for the sub...they didn't have any 10 gauge. I got 6 feet of Kicker Hyper-Flex 1862 strand 4 gauge and 14 feet of 12 gauge for $10. I thought it was a damn good deal. That kicker wire is really nice, extremely flexible.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 7 2008, 04:47 PM~9631655
> *so its that cool for 250a alt?
> 
> 
> 
> so wait, with two HC1800's (w/ third underhood batt) and a 250a alt, pit is saying you can run no more then ~3kwRMS collected correctly?
> 
> i think my system will be swinging ~3800rms all together, so im guessing i'll need two HC2000 (or maybe something from odyssey) and try and swing a 315a alt?
> *


thats being very stingy depending on the amps he could run 2 2000-2500w rms amps and a decent 4channel provided he has at least 2 runs of 1/0 + and -


----------



## themerc

Running the new 1/0 gauge...


----------



## Supaf|y in the Ky

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 8 2008, 06:30 PM~9641540
> *Running the new 1/0 gauge...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


looks good man can wait to see it in action u gotta make a vid for us :biggrin:


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 7 2008, 08:07 PM~9633289
> *thats being very stingy depending on the amps he could run 2 2000-2500w rms amps and a decent 4channel provided he has at least 2 runs of 1/0 + and -
> *


ah, okay, i was figuring i mis-understood (i was def. hoping i miss understood because that didnt add up at all).... thanks for the clearification my ashy homie


----------



## themerc

The 1/0 is run in the car, I'm hooking up wires on the amp rack, the box is done besides carpet... I should have it all done before the alternator gets here.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 7 2008, 07:16 PM~9632764
> *Can you even find a 315A alternator for your truck? And if I remember correctly, there was like a $35 shipped price difference between the hc2000's and hc2400's on ebay.
> 
> I got some 4 gauge for the amp power wires and some 12 gauge wire for the sub...they didn't have any 10 gauge. I got 6 feet of Kicker Hyper-Flex 1862 strand 4 gauge and 14 feet of 12 gauge for $10. I thought it was a damn good deal. That kicker wire is really nice, extremely flexible.
> *


nah, it was a bit of sarcasm directed to pit, he knew where i was going with it (i was also checking my own shit too... he's been doing this long before me)

and bro, anythings possible if you have the funds... i'm sure it wouldnt be much for someone with the know how and a big enough compensation for the headache to work something out to fit that truck.. and santa musta been good to you or you figured out how to hit the lotto cuz your breaking bread over there freshman uffin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 9 2008, 12:12 AM~9644255
> *and santa musta been good to you or you figured out how to hit the lotto cuz your breaking bread over there freshman uffin:
> *


Not really... just telling myself that I'll make $550 back from the kicker subs and amps next week lol. I did get a Mio C320 gps navigation system for christmas though.


----------



## themerc

This is what I'm thinking...









Blue = 1/0 gauge
Red = 4 gauge
White = anl fuse

That's a mini anl fuse distribution block in the picture by the way.


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah, the mini-anl fuses in that power distribution block are 40A. Do you think I'll be okay? Or will i blow them?


----------



## C-Bass

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 8 2008, 10:47 PM~9644630
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue = 1/0 gauge
> Red = 4 gauge
> White = anl fuse
> 
> That's a mini anl fuse distribution block in the picture by the way.
> *



Why don't you flip one of those batteries around so you don't have the wires crossing over in an X? I think it would look a bit cleaner. Just my .02


----------



## Sporty

yeh... i saw that too.. i figured that was his taste though... to have an X made of wire over some batteries


----------



## themerc

Nah it's because my fuse holder is too long... it only fits with like 1/2" on both sides in between the two + terminals... so I'd have to make a big wire loop anyway. It's easier to just cross them and keep the wires straight vs. bending the knukonceptz.

That and if I turn it around it won't say Kinetik on the front lol.


----------



## 88monteSS

to make it a little cleaner, why dont you drill holes in the amp rack, run the wires through them(grommets obviously) and the run them directly up to the end point. then youll only see 1" of the wires instead of having all the wires run around the front like that


----------



## 1ofaknd

the fuse between the two batteries isn't really necessary.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 8 2008, 11:47 PM~9644630
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'm thinking...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue = 1/0 gauge
> Red = 4 gauge
> White = anl fuse
> 
> That's a mini anl fuse distribution block in the picture by the way.
> *


that was poorly thought out and looks like shit.....


----------



## 88monteSS

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 11 2008, 03:03 PM~9669648
> *that was poorly thought out and looks like shit.....
> *


hahaha agreed. but if you take my advice it COULD be alot better.


----------



## Pitbullx

I just thought about it and those amps should have internal fuses.... you dont need to use that distro block

and you dont need the fuse between the two batteries and the fuse out back really isnt nec as well.....


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 11 2008, 06:03 PM~9669648
> *that was poorly thought out and looks like shit.....
> *


It wasn't poorly thought out asshole. With the way my car is setup, that was the easiest most functional way I could do it.

I've done the grommet thing before. I did it on my last amp rack. With the batteries in there and my amp rack chained down, running the wires underneath it becomes a huge hassle and I really don't care what the amp rack looks like, no one sees it but me and I want something very accessible. Not only that, but it lengthens all my wires significantly, which isn't good.










That's my old amp rack after I removed 2 of the amps. The new amp rack is the same size, the tire is going to be standing up like that, and the box is pretty tall. There's only like 10" of height up on that shelf to work with, and if the crossovers are behind the amps on the amp rack it's a pain in the ass because you have to remove the whole box, climb in the trunk, and stick your head sideways over the amps to access them. With the 2 batteries in the amp rack, I couldn't position the amps any better way without building a shelf, which would block more bass from getting into the cabin and cause the amps to heat up faster.. The way I have the amps positioned now puts the controls on the 100.4 off to the left where I have room to see around the side of the box. The controls on the 1000d are facing straight ahead so I can just reach over the box. From an ease of use and hassle-free point of view, my amp rack is perfect for my setup.


----------



## Pitbullx

lmfao whatever you say n00b


----------



## themerc

I've put the amp rack in the car, put the new alternator in, and wired up the batteries. I have to go to work but I'll post pics and give more details tonight.


----------



## themerc

Okay. I'm getting 14.25V at the alternator, I'm getting 14.18V at the front battery, and I'm getting 14.14V at both of the rear batteries (with the car idling). I just hooked up them up together and I haven't driven around much since I put the new alternator in, so I don't know if them not being fully charged has any effect on their voltages. 

This is how my batteries are wired together right now...


----------



## 1ofaknd

you'll have less voltage at the rear battery, due to your cable length, you'll always have a voltage drop. Not to mention you are mixing battery brands and sizes, which isn't usually a good thing in most cases.

and did you seriously run a ground wire all the way to the front of the car?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by 1ofaknd_@Jan 13 2008, 01:35 PM~9681746
> *and did you seriously run a ground wire all the way to the front of the car?
> *


Yeah there isn't any good solid metal in my trunk within like 3 feet of the batteries. It's all spot welded sheet metal.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 13 2008, 12:36 PM~9681750
> *Yeah there isn't any good solid metal in my trunk within like 3 feet of the batteries. It's all spot welded sheet metal.
> *


The ground all the way back up front isn't a bad thing at all, but you still need some sort of ground at the rear of the car...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by 1ofaknd_@Jan 13 2008, 12:35 PM~9681746
> *you'll have less voltage at the rear battery, due to your cable length, you'll always have a voltage drop. Not to mention you are mixing battery brands and sizes, which isn't usually a good thing in most cases.
> 
> and did you seriously run a ground wire all the way to the front of the car?
> *


actually grounding the rear batteries to the front battery works alot better than the regular ground in the rear


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jan 13 2008, 01:45 PM~9682087
> *actually grounding the rear batteries to the front battery works alot better than the regular ground in the rear
> *


I've seen it add 2 tenths on the t/l before...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jan 13 2008, 01:55 PM~9682137
> *I've seen it add 2 tenths on the t/l before...
> *


mmhmm

why do ppl think those street and ss cars have 35354534 runs of wire :biggrin: 
im redoing my daily with 2 1/0 + and -


----------



## themerc

The 100.4 is up and running... I didn't blow it when I blew my alternator :cheesy: .

I need to replace the speaker wiring for the 5.25's though. I used the CDT speaker wire for the speaker and some audiopipe 16 gauge for the tweeter, but today I took a good look at the CDT speaker wire and it looks smaller than 18 gauge.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 14 2008, 08:36 PM~9694765
> *The 100.4 is up and running... I didn't blow it when I blew my alternator  :cheesy: .
> 
> I need to replace the speaker wiring for the 5.25's though. I used the CDT speaker wire for the speaker and some audiopipe 16 gauge for the tweeter, but today I took a good look at the CDT speaker wire and it looks smaller than 18 gauge.
> *


i use 16awg on my speaker wire for the cdt's


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 14 2008, 10:07 PM~9695042
> *i use 16awg on my speaker wire for the cdt's
> *


Did you see how small the CDT wire was?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 14 2008, 09:14 PM~9695128
> *Did you see how small the CDT wire was?
> *


yeh... i dont know why they send them with that bullshit wire... honestly, i didnt know they came with wire so i had already bought some 16awg before i got my comps,.. and the knukoncepts wire was better then the wire they came with so i never used it..


----------



## themerc

Yeah I'm starting to wonder the quality of all my wire. It's all 16 gauge audiopipe besides a run of the CDT, and 12 gauge audiopipe for the sub. I'm thinking about ordering some knukoneptz. What kind do you have Sporty, the klear, karma ss, or kasa?


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah... and I'm feeling the 5.25's in some kicks, some midbass 6.5's in the doors, and the tweets in the woodgrain, sound good?


----------



## themerc

I got some RF 8 gauge for sub wire. No one had 10 gauge, 25 ft. of JL 12 gauge was $35 plus tax, and I'm not feeling the 12 gauge audiopipe wire I have now. I plan on carpeting the box tonight and possibly hooking up the sub.


----------



## themerc

Just gotta drop the sub in tomorrow. I'm putting the "Fi" logo at a 45 degree angle.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 14 2008, 10:27 PM~9696016
> *Yeah I'm starting to wonder the quality of all my wire. It's all 16 gauge audiopipe besides a run of the CDT, and 12 gauge audiopipe for the sub. I'm thinking about ordering some knukoneptz. What kind do you have Sporty, the  klear, karma ss, or kasa?
> *


i think its kolossus cable for my 4 awg, and klear for my 16 awg and 10 awg (16awg on comps and coax, and 10awg on my ID8's)... 

I'm going to use the 10awg klear to connect my subs to a plate and connect the plate to the amp with 8awg... (might remember snoopdan and some other guys make they're on "terminal plate")

and im thinking im gonna swing for 4 IDQ12V2 instead of the IDQ10V3... not to down play the 10" but i'm not reading much of a performance upgrade from V2 to V3 enough to justify the cost difference... i can get the IDQ12V2 for alot less then the IDQ10V3 (seems more cosmetic w/ more xmax). as for the setup: same amt of power, same port area, just larger front and rear chamber (which will be worth a look, i got something a lil "creative" brewing  )


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 14 2008, 10:53 PM~9696292
> *Oh yeah... and I'm feeling the 5.25's in some kicks, some midbass 6.5's in the doors, and the tweets in the woodgrain, sound good?
> *



5.25 and tweets in kicks with 6.5's in the doors and tweets in the A-pillar firing at front windshield...

i think that sounds better..


----------



## themerc

If I took the tweeters out of the doors I'd have some nasty looking holes in my woodgrain, so those have to stay, and my A pillars are too rounded if I remember correctly.


----------



## themerc

I had to put another coat of spray paint in the port, how long before you think I can put the sub in?


----------



## 1ofaknd

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 16 2008, 05:07 PM~9711476
> *I had to put another coat of spray paint in the port, how long before you think I can put the sub in?
> *


why do you need to wait?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 16 2008, 05:07 PM~9711476
> *I had to put another coat of spray paint in the port, how long before you think I can put the sub in?
> *


MAN!!! if you dont stop fuckin around! :twak: 

put the sub in there and post a vid already... I've had paint blowing out of ports, shit wasnt even dried yet... i was like "FUCK IT, LETS DO IT"


----------



## themerc

Well my channel #2 on my SAX-100.4 isn't working... it's putting out barely any power at all and the little sound I do get from it is really distorted. I tried switching RCA's, checking the RCA's connections behind my headunit, switching speakers, switching polarity, unhooking the SAE-1000D... nothing worked. I'm wondering if that channel blew when my alternator blew and the amp got hot.


----------



## themerc

EDIT:

These videos sucked. I'll try to record some new ones now that I have the gain set correctly.


----------



## themerc

delete


----------



## Sporty

Trying to figure out just why the sub isn't trying to jump out of the box... I dont think your playing what it likes? Let us know how it goes when your dial everything in..


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 21 2008, 09:46 AM~9744989
> *Trying to figure out just why the sub isn't trying to jump out of the box... I dont think your playing what it likes? Let us know how it goes when your dial everything in..
> *


Yeah we figured out that my gain has a 0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity, and my headunit has 2v preouts, so I need to turn up the gain more to match it. Also, I was playing music and tones that were higher than my peak tuning frequency.

I'll make some new videos today.


----------



## themerc

Okay. Me and my friend listened to tones at low volumes and decided which we thought was loudest, and we decided on 35Hz. I put the gain at 0, I put the sub bass at 0 on the headunit, I put the volume at 33/40 on the headunit, I put the 35Hz tone on repeat, I put the DMM probes into the speaker terminals, and I raised the gain until I hit just about 31.2-31.5 volts (31.6 volts is 1000 watts @ 1 ohm). Man that thing was blasting! That shit OWNED my dual CVR12's!

I played zoom by lil boosie and put the sub bass at +6 and I was hitting in the low 20's (volts) at the speaker terminals on the amp during the song's peak times. That and late night tip by three 6 mafia were hitting pretty damn hard. A paper that was in my trunk got sucked into the port when I was playing zoom and I had to use a shop vac to get the paper out of my box lol. 

Oh yeah, and I accidentally played a 25Hz tone with the volume at 33/40 and I blew a 40A fuse in my power distribution block lol. The sub was all over the place... I won't be playing anything below 35Hz again.

I need to find some more songs with low beats though.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 21 2008, 03:26 PM~9747411
> *Okay. Me and my friend listened to tones at low volumes and decided which we thought was loudest, and we decided on 35Hz.  I put the gain at 0, I put the sub bass at 0 on the headunit, I put the volume at 33/40 on the headunit, I put the 35Hz tone on repeat, I put the DMM probes into the speaker terminals, and I raised the gain until I hit just about 31.2-31.5 volts (31.6 volts is 1000 watts @ 1 ohm). Man that thing was blasting! That shit OWNED my dual CVR12's!
> 
> I played zoom by lil boosie and put the sub bass at +6 and I was hitting in the low 20's (volts) at the speaker terminals on the amp during the song's peak times. That and late night tip by three 6 mafia were hitting pretty damn hard. A paper that was in my trunk got sucked into the port when I was playing zoom and I had to use a shop vac to get the paper out of my box lol.
> 
> Oh yeah, and I accidentally played a 25Hz tone with the volume at 33/40 and I blew a 40A fuse in my power distribution block lol. The sub was all over the place... I won't be playing anything below 35Hz again.
> 
> I need to find some more songs with low beats though.
> *



or post vids


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 21 2008, 04:43 PM~9747517
> *or post vids
> *


Alright man lol. I have to find a better place to do this though, my neighbors were getting pissed off. My dad came out in the driveway and said things in the house were shaking. I'll try to record some videos this afternoon some place remote.


----------



## WhitePapi2006

yo homie i am working temp at a interior factory for all of ford and i was wondering how much you willing to pay for some on them woodgrain peices brand new where your tweeters are????? i can get them for you


----------



## themerc

I just sent the SAX-100.4 back to Sundown to be fixed.


----------



## Sporty

what the fuck, no install pics, one vid, whats going on? 16 pages of build process/help. i need you to get on the ball homie :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 28 2008, 10:31 AM~9801606
> *what the fuck, no install pics, one vid, whats going on? 16 pages of build process/help. i need you to get on the ball homie :cheesy:
> *


Alright. I shall grant some of Sporty's "request" for now lol...

Here are some pics. The SAX-100.4 is missing from the amp rack as you'll notice, and the crossovers obviously aren't hooked up. I've also left out the pics of the security features.









15" Fi Q with BP Power option in 4 cube @ 32Hz box^






















































Fiberglassed 45 degree turns^









8 gauge Rockford Fosgate sub wire^









CDT crossovers and 4 gauge Kicker amp wire^









Sundown Audio SAE-1000D and Dual Kinetik HC1800's^









1/0 gauge Knukoneptz battery wire^









Craftsman DMM with DC clamp^


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah, and in June I'm selling my grand marquis to get a car for college. I'm looking for something with *good gas mileage and lots of stereo capabilities.* Right now I'm thinking about a black 2005 Volkswagen GTI (1.8L turbocharged 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, 32mpg highway)...




























Let me know if you guys have any other ideas.


----------



## Sporty

that'll work actually


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 29 2008, 04:06 PM~9813349
> *that'll work actually
> *


Yeah but they're hard to find. Do you guys have any other ideas?


----------



## themerc

I realized I never took any pics of the new alternator...



























Got wires? :biggrin: 



While I was there I started her up and checked my voltage (music off). I was getting 14.26 volts at the alternator, 14.22 volts at the front battery, and 14.20 volts at the rear batteries. It was too dark to make a vid. I'll see if I can get around to it tomorrow.


----------



## themerc

Brian, I've gotta give it up for Jacob at Sundown. My SAX-100.4 that wasn't working reached Sundown yesterday, today I got an email from UPS tracking saying my shipment from Sundown has shipped... so I emailed Jacob and asked what was wrong with my amp. He said he hadn't tested it yet, he just sent me a new one.


----------



## themerc

I made a video today, but I got cut short because my camera batteries died. It's "white girl" by U.S.D.A. I had the volume at 30/40 and the bass at 0. It still looks like from the video that the 1000D doesn't do the Q15 any justice though.

Video


----------



## themerc

Oh I guess I did get 1 more video of it...

"hood *****" by Gorilla Zoe

Video 2


----------



## Pitbullx

something looks wrong... things should be violent on those 2 tracks.....


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 31 2008, 08:18 PM~9834923
> *Brian, I've gotta give it up for Jacob at Sundown. My SAX-100.4 that wasn't working reached Sundown yesterday, today I got an email from UPS tracking saying my shipment from Sundown has shipped... so I emailed Jacob and asked what was wrong with my amp. He said he hadn't tested it yet, he just sent me a new one.
> *


These are things I take into consideration BEFORE I recommend equipment to people, not just the product itself, too bad hardly no one ever listens to me...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 1 2008, 12:40 AM~9837230
> *something looks wrong... things should be violent on those 2 tracks.....
> *


I know, I've got the 14.2 volts at the rear batteries. Don't get me wrong, it's loud, but not as loud as I was expecting.

I set the gain by measuring volts at the amp speaker terminals while playing a 35hz tone, maybe I should just set it by ear. I might try switching RCA's and using my new tsunami RCA's. My sub RCA's are like 2-3 years old.


----------



## Pitbullx

set the gain on the amp to about halfway or a little past..... the voltage method is jank,,,,,


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 1 2008, 07:28 AM~9839566
> *These are things I take into consideration BEFORE I recommend equipment to people, not just the product itself, too bad hardly no one ever listens to me...
> *


noone listens because ur a grumpy old fart :biggrin:


----------



## Supaf|y in the Ky

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 1 2008, 07:28 AM~9839566
> *These are things I take into consideration BEFORE I recommend equipment to people, not just the product itself, too bad hardly no one ever listens to me...
> *


i do  :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 1 2008, 01:24 PM~9840948
> *set the gain on the amp to about halfway or a little past..... the voltage method is jank,,,,,
> *


It's set at like 3/4 of the way up. I think it's just because the sub's got the BP Power, which should let it take 1800 watts, and I'm giving it 1,000.


----------



## Supaf|y in the Ky

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 1 2008, 11:12 PM~9845830
> *It's set at like 3/4 of the way up. I think it's just because the sub's got the BP Power, which should let it take 1800 watts, and I'm giving it 1,000.
> *


looks good thou


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 1 2008, 11:12 PM~9845830
> *It's set at like 3/4 of the way up. I think it's just because the sub's got the BP Power, which should let it take 1800 watts, and I'm giving it 1,000.
> *


it should still be wanging off off that amp..... if everything is wired up right and is set correctly ur box is the culprit


----------



## themerc

"choppin blades" by UGK

Vid 1

Vid 2

Vid 3


----------



## Pitbullx

try bass i love you...


----------



## themerc

At a certain point in bass I love you, the sub bottomed out and went out of control.


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah, so I blasted the Q15 a lot today and when I got home I put the car in park (stereo off) and measured my voltages. I was getting 13.99 at the alternator and 13.96 at the front battery. I kept the stereo off and drove around for 10 minutes, came back and measured it again... same voltage. Why is my voltage dropping big time? A couple days ago I was getting 14.26 at the alt and 14.22 at the front battery.


----------



## WhitePapi2006

yooooooo

how about this friday i am getting 4 15 l5 the new ones and i am getting the box built this week and a zx2500 watt kicker amp 1 channel


----------



## Sporty

i agree with pit... somethings not right man... could be the bp option... i was str8 abusing the x12 with about double the RMS recommended and it was trying to climb out the box while still sounding great and and swingin low... i know those fuckers enjoy abuse and if you got it so it can handle 1800, then its looking for something around 2400... even without the option i would want to give it 1500/1600wrms (but 1k should still get things pumpin)... but i can tell you now, either your camera's shutter speed cant contest with the woofer or your not getting all you can out of the setup...

shit should be wreckless


----------



## themerc

I don't know... the amp gets pretty hot after a while of bumpin. The mods on SSA said "A subwoofer excursion will be decreased the closer to you get to the enclosure's tuned frequency in a ported enclosure to nearly nothing right at the Fb." and "Comparing output by looking at a video is, in a word, stupid. Don't listen to them, if you're concerned about output go by what you do on a sensor, and nothing else." They said if I want excursion, go sealed.

I do wish I got the 1500D for it though.


----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

I just read this ENTIRE topic, from start to finish. Good reading.

I have a few questions for Merc.

What is your goal with this system? A parking lot pounder, SQ or competition? 

So far, how do you like it? Any regrets, was this a big waste of money or would you do this again??

I've learned that this audio shit can cost more than a damn hydro system and it takes a lot of work and tweaking do get optimal results even with good equipment.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Crenshaw's Finest_@Feb 4 2008, 04:34 PM~9862905
> *I just read this ENTIRE topic, from start to finish. Good reading.
> 
> I have a few questions for Merc.
> 
> What is your goal with this system? A parking lot pounder, SQ or competition?
> 
> So far, how do you like it? Any regrets, was this a big waste of money or would you do this again??
> 
> I've learned that this audio shit can cost more than a damn hydro system and it takes a lot of work and tweaking do get optimal results even with good equipment.*



when ever you do something and quality is your main focus, it will cost... be it air, hydro, audio, upholestry, paint, etc... uffin:

glad you took a look into our realm


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Crenshaw's Finest_@Feb 4 2008, 05:34 PM~9862905
> *I just read this ENTIRE topic, from start to finish. Good reading.
> 
> I have a few questions for Merc.
> 
> What is your goal with this system? A parking lot pounder, SQ or competition?
> 
> So far, how do you like it? Any regrets, was this a big waste of money or would you do this again??
> 
> I've learned that this audio shit can cost more than a damn hydro system and it takes a lot of work and tweaking do get optimal results even with good equipment.
> *


Damn, I occasionally go back and read certain pages but I wouldn't even wanna read my 18 pages of questions from start to finish lol.

My goal was basically a parking lot pounder with some sound quality. I doubt I'll ever compete, maybe just once or twice to see what I'm hitting on the meter with my 32hz tuned box. But honestly, I'll never be finished. I love picking out new equipment, trying new ideas, installing more advanced equipment... the process of installing and learning is more fun to me than the final product... which is why there's 18 pages here and probably 3 pages worth of pictures lol. 

So was it worth it? To me, yeah. A lot of people would rather drop thousands at a shop and have it done in a day or two... I'd rather spend weeks doing it myself. When I first started out, it was just like anything else, something to make my car look cool... now I probably wouldn't do anything else to my next car but a stereo... and maybe some rims and tint


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 4 2008, 04:16 PM~9862789
> *I don't know... the amp gets pretty hot after a while of bumpin. The mods on SSA said "A subwoofer excursion will be decreased the closer to you get to the enclosure's tuned frequency in a ported enclosure to nearly nothing right at the Fb." and "Comparing output by looking at a video is, in a word, stupid. Don't listen to them, if you're concerned about output go by what you do on a sensor, and nothing else." They said if I want excursion, go sealed.
> 
> I do wish I got the 1500D for it though.
> *


well, go with what they say then homie... your gear, your shit... just dont seem like things are in order, but they know more about shit then us i guess... if your not thinking its owning your cvr's, i say somethings not right

i dont get why you got the bp option any way if you where planning on just giving it 1k... but whatever, they probably told you to do that too lol j/p, its all good


----------



## Pitbullx

even with that option 1000w is more than enough power to make that shit get off.... ive said it before and Ill say it again that box is shit


----------



## themerc

Brian advised me to get the BP Option because it has better cooling and I've got an unventilated trunk in Florida... plus for like $40 it adds another few hundred watts of capability. It seemed worth it.

Sporty, I said it DID own my CVR's lol.



"burping at tuning frequency causes the least cone movement, meaning you can push more power at that note as long as you know how to control the sub from overheating.

Trust me, it's normal if it doesn't move a lot around tuning. Your movement becomes greater below tuning and about 12-15 hz above it. Above tuning may differ from how the box is tuned but i usually tune ported boxes where u got yours tuned at and that's what i notice."


----------



## Pitbullx

that info about the sub not moving much at and around tuning frequency is correct.... now if the output is lacking the box is the culprit (provided everything else is setup correctly)


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 5 2008, 11:55 PM~9873700
> *that info about the sub not moving much at and around tuning frequency is correct.... now if the output is lacking the box is the culprit (provided everything else is setup correctly)
> *


Yeah, so like I said, I need to get it metered. There's a couple competitions coming up and I'm going to try to make it down there to test my shit out. I don't care about winning or losing, I just want to know what I'm hitting.


----------



## Pitbullx

where are you located in florida?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 6 2008, 12:22 AM~9873989
> *where are you located in florida?
> *


NE


----------



## MICHOACAN

nice setup


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 5 2008, 11:38 PM~9874216
> *NE
> *


where in the hell is that....

definetly not my around my area... im in south florida


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 6 2008, 09:04 AM~9876192
> *where in the hell is that....
> 
> definetly not my around my area... im in south florida
> *


...Northeast... Jacksonville area


----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 4 2008, 04:58 PM~9864014
> *Damn, I occasionally go back and read certain pages but I wouldn't even wanna read my 18 pages of questions from start to finish lol.
> 
> My goal was basically a parking lot pounder with some sound quality. I doubt I'll ever compete, maybe just once or twice to see what I'm hitting on the meter with my 32hz tuned box. But honestly, I'll never be finished. I love picking out new equipment, trying new ideas, installing more advanced equipment... the process of installing and learning is more fun to me than the final product... which is why there's 18 pages here and probably 3 pages worth of pictures lol.
> 
> So was it worth it? To me, yeah. A lot of people would rather drop thousands at a shop and have it done in a day or two... I'd rather spend weeks doing it myself. When I first started out, it was just like anything else, something to make my car look cool... now I probably wouldn't do anything else to my next car but a stereo... and maybe some rims and tint
> *


Cool. To me just like everything else in Lowriding, changing shit out and playing around with stuff seems to be the most fun (and expensive) in the long run. I agree with you there.

I like music more than many people I believe and I've long noticed how MUCH MORE a good song will sound with the right quality stereo and equipment. Being loud and having good sound quality has always been something to strive for in car audio.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 5 2008, 10:51 PM~9873628
> *Brian advised me to get the BP Option because it has better cooling and I've got an unventilated trunk in Florida... plus for like $40 it adds another few hundred watts of capability. It seemed worth it.
> 
> Sporty, I said it DID own my CVR's lol.
> "burping at tuning frequency causes the least cone movement, meaning you can push more power at that note as long as you know how to control the sub from overheating.
> 
> Trust me, it's normal if it doesn't move a lot around tuning. Your movement becomes greater below tuning and about 12-15 hz above it. Above tuning may differ from how the box is tuned but i usually tune ported boxes where u got yours tuned at and that's what i notice."
> *


OH, WELL THEN SHUT UP AND GO CRUISE THEN!!! uffin:

i wonder how would a enclosure with flared ports do..., im almost willing to make it myself if your willing to pay for the shipping...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 6 2008, 11:47 PM~9882037
> *OH, WELL THEN SHUT UP AND GO CRUISE THEN!!! uffin:
> 
> i wonder how would a enclosure with flared ports do..., im almost willing to make it myself if your willing to pay for the shipping...
> *


haha just let me know the shipping cost and we shall find out


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 6 2008, 10:47 PM~9882037
> *OH, WELL THEN SHUT UP AND GO CRUISE THEN!!! uffin:
> 
> i wonder how would a enclosure with flared ports do..., im almost willing to make it myself if your willing to pay for the shipping...
> *


the issue isnt slot or flared its the ports configuration and location in relation to the sub.... its loading funky


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 7 2008, 12:11 AM~9883101
> *the issue isnt slot or flared its the ports configuration and location in relation to the sub.... its loading funky
> *


Which you and I both told him several pages ago...


----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

Noob ? here....

Can one of you explain in laymans terms what a "burp(s)" is and the purpose of it please?


----------



## badcayne

> _Originally posted by Crenshaw's Finest_@Feb 6 2008, 10:55 PM~9883529
> *Noob ? here....
> 
> Can one of you explain in laymans terms what a "burp(s)" is and the purpose of it please?
> *


correct me if im wrong.

Burps are usually for competitions. or to measure on T/L what DB's your getting.

it just a bass tone at what ever frequency is choosed. and they play it a few seconds at a time, at full power.



http://youtube.com/watch?v=ejLKRzC_pqQ


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 7 2008, 12:16 AM~9883143
> *Which you and I both told him several pages ago...
> *


people dont listen to us 
got new pics of the shoes on the burb?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 7 2008, 01:16 AM~9883143
> *Which you and I both told him several pages ago...
> *


After I was halfway done with the box. You both said finish the box and try it out.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 7 2008, 12:11 AM~9883101
> *the issue isnt slot or flared its the ports configuration and location in relation to the sub.... its loading funky
> *



i understand that, but the way i would make it with the flareds, we wont have a loading problem homie


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 7 2008, 11:09 AM~9885541
> *i understand that, but the way i would make it with the flareds, we wont have a loading problem homie
> *


provided the port isnt positioned directly behind the sub


----------



## Sporty

honestly, those flareds eleminate ALOT of newbie error (even though most dont realize it)... for example, loading into the port mouth... not possible with a flared port unless your an extreme fuck up and go to lowes and get some 90 degree angles and purposely do it... with a slot, you can do it just how we saw it done here...

or maybe not keeping the port area the same through out the length of the port, etc, etc...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 7 2008, 11:09 AM~9885541
> *i understand that, but the way i would make it with the flareds, we wont have a loading problem homie
> *


provided the port isnt positioned directly behind the sub


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 7 2008, 05:38 AM~9884700
> *people dont listen to us
> got new pics of the shoes on the burb?
> *


Naw, and now it's filthy because of all the rain, so it may be a while...


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 7 2008, 07:04 AM~9884754
> *After I was halfway done with the box. You both said finish the box and try it out.
> *


And it didn't turn out horrible, but it's doing what we expected it to do...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 7 2008, 11:42 AM~9885726
> *Naw, and now it's filthy because of all the rain, so it may be a while...
> *


im still waiting for mine to get in stock.....:uh:


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 7 2008, 11:58 AM~9885821
> *im still waiting for mine to get in stock.....:uh:
> *


brahma got me wanting 24's even more with his drop sittin on 2's...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 7 2008, 12:43 PM~9885734
> *And it didn't turn out horrible, but it's doing what we expected it to do...
> *


You expected it to have low excursion? Oh okay...


----------



## themerc

With my dimensions, in order to use flared ports and have enough port area, the ports would have to come out the left or right side of the box.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 7 2008, 04:48 PM~9887884
> *With my dimensions, in order to use flared ports and have enough port area, the ports would have to come out the left or right side of the box.
> *



what size diameter ports are you considering??


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 7 2008, 06:20 PM~9888106
> *what size diameter ports are you considering??
> *


Either four 4" ports or two 6" ports.


----------



## themerc

I need some speakers for the kicks. I want the loudest possible for under $130 (preferably less)... think 6.5's are my best bet?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 7 2008, 04:44 PM~9887853
> *You expected it to have low excursion? Oh okay...
> *


weakish output and the low excursion is a given at and near tuning frequency n00b


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 7 2008, 10:37 PM~9890221
> *weakish output and the low excursion is a given at and near tuning frequency n00b
> *


I know. What I'm trying to say is, how does Brian know there's something wrong at all?


----------



## themerc

1ofaknd, here you go...


----------



## themerc

Alright, forget kicks, they're no longer an option.


----------



## themerc

My friend's going to go get my old 2 CVR12's, 2 400.1's, and a box I built installed in his car today... and I'll finally be $550 richer.


----------



## Pitbullx

sweet


----------



## themerc

Make that $600... installed it for him.


----------



## themerc

Well I'm taking out the components. 100.4 pushing MTX 5x7's in the front doors and MTX 6x9's in the rear deck... I need volume, I've got plenty of bass.


----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

what you gonna do with the cdt's?


----------



## Pitbullx

sad sad sad.....


----------



## themerc

Add them to my collection of speakers I guess. Maybe I'll use them in my next car.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 14 2008, 07:23 AM~9939625
> *Add them to my collection of speakers I guess. Maybe I'll use them in my next car.
> *


umm, why aren't you using them anymore? because your waiting for the other sundown to come back or your just not happy with their performance? they are the 5.25's right?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 14 2008, 10:37 AM~9940004
> *umm, why aren't you using them anymore? because your waiting for the other sundown to come back or your just not happy with their performance? they are the 5.25's right?
> *


I've got the new 100.4... I'm just not happy with their performance. I moved the 5x7's back up to the front doors and it was much better. The 5x7's just get louder, and if I remember right, the 6x9's were even louder than the 5x7's. The 6x9's are rated for 100 rms too.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 14 2008, 11:11 PM~9946292
> *I've got the new 100.4... I'm just not happy with their performance. I moved the 5x7's back up to the front doors and it was much better. The 5x7's just get louder, and if I remember right, the 6x9's were even louder than the 5x7's. The 6x9's are rated for 100 rms too.
> *


well shoot... i'll trade you my 6.5's for your 5.25's because i want to move the comps into the kicks and put some 6x9's in the front doors (and the 6.5's in the kicks is gonna eat a good bit of space up)... let me know how you feeling about it... and what was the power handling again?


----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 14 2008, 09:11 PM~9946292
> *I've got the new 100.4... I'm just not happy with their performance. I moved the 5x7's back up to the front doors and it was much better. The 5x7's just get louder, and if I remember right, the 6x9's were even louder than the 5x7's. The 6x9's are rated for 100 rms too.
> *


I think about stuff like that too. The sound quality is ther but you just can't crank it up without distorting. I assume thats your issue too Merc? I'd like to find some speakers that can get loud AND maintain SQ.


----------



## Pitbullx

lmfao
no comment


----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

sorry masta


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Crenshaw's Finest_@Feb 15 2008, 08:57 PM~9952900
> *sorry masta
> *


not talking about you


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Crenshaw's Finest_@Feb 15 2008, 07:46 PM~9951921
> *I think about stuff like that too. The sound quality is ther but you just can't crank it up without distorting. I assume thats your issue too Merc? I'd like to find some speakers that can get loud AND maintain SQ.
> *


Yeah, I mean I can crank it up... but I have to set my headunit speaker bass to -6, and then it seems like I've got all highs and no mids and there's no depth to the music.

Which 6.5's do you have Sporty? The 5.25's are 100 rms with the tweeters and crossovers.


----------



## themerc

Scratch the 6x9's too... I can't use them unless I mount them from underneath... and the batteries are in the way. They're too big for MDF adapters on top of the rear deck too, and I'm not cutting the deck... so another pair of 5x7's it is. I just gotta decide which to go with.


----------



## themerc

I can't wait to get a new car that's easier for audio equipment... oh yeah, I got into University of Florida, so I should be selling my car and getting a new or newer one in June.


----------



## Pitbullx

that car is easy to do a good install in..... you dont listen and dont want to put the effort in at times...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 16 2008, 11:16 AM~9956914
> *Yeah, I mean I can crank it up... but I have to set my headunit speaker bass to -6, and then it seems like I've got all highs and no mids and there's no depth to the music.
> 
> Which 6.5's do you have Sporty? The 5.25's are 100 rms with the tweeters and crossovers.
> *



CDT EF 6.5" comps 
satnet 480 crossovers (adds the option of a 2nd pair of tweets for imaging)
1" silks
150wRMS power handling crossed @ 100hz

those are 1" silks as well right?

shit, let me know lil homie... i say its an even swap... both are used, both cdt..


----------



## themerc

Yeah, 1" silks... you think the outer tweeter diameters are the exact same size? Gotta fit in my woodgrain...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 18 2008, 01:14 AM~9968125
> *Yeah, 1" silks... you think the outer tweeter diameters are the exact same size? Gotta fit in my woodgrain...
> *


pretty sure its the same one... you can go on cdt.com and check it out... download the instruction manuals for both and see what they say the cut out is for the tweeter


----------



## themerc

Do you have TW-25 tweeters?

http://www.cdtaudio.com/SilkSoftDomeTweet.htm


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 18 2008, 09:50 AM~9969511
> *Do you have TW-25 tweeters?
> 
> http://www.cdtaudio.com/SilkSoftDomeTweet.htm
> *


yes i do... silk... im sure you have the same?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 18 2008, 11:07 AM~9969593
> *yes i do... silk... im sure you have the same?
> *


Yeah same ones... no point in us trading those lol.


----------



## themerc

Took the box out to try to fit the 6x9's and took some pics... I also weighed the box. It weighed 141 lbs.


----------



## themerc

A 6.5 will fit in a 6x8 location with an adapter right? If so, let's trade Sporty.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 18 2008, 03:06 PM~9971244
> *A 6.5 will fit in a 6x8 location with an adapter right? If so, let's trade Sporty.
> *


it should with an adapater... not sure where you might place the tweeter but you can definetly get the midrange in a 6x8 opening...

lets make the trade on friday of next week (we'll call it "the shipping day" )...

before the shipping day, lets make sure we pm each other pics of the comp set, and addresses to ship to, so that there's no issue later... 

sounds good?


----------



## themerc

yeah


----------



## themerc




----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

FUCKIN BOX IS HUGE


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Crenshaw's Finest_@Feb 20 2008, 05:36 PM~9988388
> *FUCKIN BOX IS HUGE
> *


That's the secret to getting loud...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 20 2008, 09:31 PM~9990608
> *That's the secret to getting loud...
> *


one of the usual suspects


----------



## themerc

So I'm thinking about getting a chevy colorado/isuzu i280...


















That i280 is a 2006 with 7k miles for $10,795. It's got a 2.8L I4 with 175hp and a 5 speed manual tranny... and gets 20/27mpg. The stok speakers are 6.75" up front and 6.5" in back... what do you think, does it have stereo potential? :biggrin:


----------



## Pitbullx

trucks suck ass for boom for the most part.....


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 29 2008, 12:03 AM~10055163
> *trucks suck ass for boom for the most part.....
> *



I'd say SUV's reign supreme... I wish i had bought a yukon or tahoe, but I'm sure my truck is gonna get'r done... just woulda been a HELL of alot cheaper, simpler, quicker to do it with a suv...

but you gotta admit, if you take the time and do shit all the way, trucks can get down


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 29 2008, 09:46 AM~10057151
> *I'd say SUV's reign supreme... I wish i had bought a yukon or tahoe, but I'm sure my truck is gonna get'r done... just woulda been a HELL of alot cheaper, simpler, quicker to do it with a suv...
> 
> but you gotta admit, if you take the time and do shit all the way, trucks can get down
> *


if you do a blowthru or a wall/diamond in the bed they do.....


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Feb 29 2008, 12:13 PM~10057873
> *if you do a blowthru or a wall/diamond in the bed they do.....
> *


4th order blowing through the back seats for the win!


----------



## Crenshaw's Finest

get the extra cab for your audio needs


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Feb 29 2008, 04:24 PM~10059594
> *4th order blowing through the back seats for the win!
> *


big ported tuned low > bp :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

A box behind the seats would still be louder than my grand marquis setup now though, right?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 1 2008, 12:35 AM~10062651
> *A box behind the seats would still be louder than my grand marquis setup now though, right?
> *


newp it probably wont


----------



## themerc

Why is there a huge difference between an extended cab truck and an suv, the distance between the windshield and the box?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 1 2008, 03:24 PM~10065415
> *Why is there a huge difference between an extended cab truck and an suv, the distance between the windshield and the box?
> *



get an suv bro! if your gettin a big vehicle, punch for an SUV.
subs up, ports back...

with a truck with the subs firing forward, it wont have that DEEP authority that you can get with an suv... not to say it wont bang but it will not have that down in the cellar, crucial deepness characteristic...

my truck was turning heads, loud, but it didnt have that "TO THE BOTTOM" sound that i wanted. (hopefully this BP im doing does it cuz if not then im done with audio for a good long while)


----------



## themerc

You know of an suv that gets good gas mileage? That i280 gets 27mpg highway. When gas hits 4 bucks a gallon this spring I don't want to be getting 12mpg in a tahoe.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 3 2008, 04:15 PM~10078247
> *You know of an suv that gets good gas mileage? That i280 gets 27mpg highway. When gas hits 4 bucks a gallon this spring I don't want to be getting 12mpg in a tahoe.
> *


Look at a Trailblazer or Envoy


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 3 2008, 08:36 PM~10080115
> *Look at a Trailblazer or Envoy
> *


[/story]

or get you a old blazer... i dont know why but i love the body style


----------



## themerc

I'm looking at about 10 grand for a car/truck/suv. My friend has a trailblazer and he gets 16 mpg and a guy I work with has a 2 door blazer and he gets 18 mpg.


----------



## Pitbullx

either gas mileage or maximum boom

u must decide


----------



## themerc

Alright, I've thought about it. 

My car is a '99 with only 76,000 miles, leather, power everything, no mechanical problems, no scratches or dents (just paint chipping)... but it's only worth like 4 grand because it's a grand marquis. There's no point in selling it for 4 grand and getting a new car. Do you know what 4 grand buys? A piece of shit with like 140,000 miles. My grand marquis with the 4.6L V8 (like cop cars, taxis, and limos) will last forever, I might as well run it into the ground. 

I'm going off to school and I won't be driving much. I'm going to throw the spare in the backseat and rebuild the box. I want to sell the 1000D and get a 1500D. I'm going to reposition the 100.4 on the amp rack too. I think I'll make an SPL box for fun also.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 6 2008, 10:56 PM~10109237
> *Alright, I've thought about it.
> 
> My car is a '99 with only 76,000 miles, leather, power everything, no mechanical problems, no scratches or dents (just paint chipping)... but it's only worth like 4 grand because it's a grand marquis. There's no point in selling it for 4 grand and getting a new car. Do you know what 4 grand buys? A piece of shit with like 140,000 miles. My grand marquis with the 4.6L V8 (like cop cars, taxis, and limos) will last forever, I might as well run it into the ground.
> 
> I'm going off to school and I won't be driving much. I'm going to throw the spare in the backseat and rebuild the box. I want to sell the 1000D and get a 1500D. I'm going to reposition the 100.4 on the amp rack too. I think I'll make an SPL box for fun also.
> *


now your thinking... 


I'm sitting over here thinking, this guys parents must be rollin in dough, or he just hasn't reached that "intelligent" level yet.

welcome. uffin:


I wouldnt have bought this '06 if i didnt crash my '01... nothing was sexier then paying off your first vehicle and pocketing that money every month instead of sending it off (and your already use to doing without it so it makes your savings account go up and UP)


----------



## themerc

My grandmother came over and gave me a bag of tools... 3 sets of brand new sheet metal cutters (straight, curved left, curved right). It's a sign... the rear deck must go...


----------



## king-918

BUY A SCION XB THEY SEEM LIKE THEY WERE MADE FOR SOUND AND THE MPG IS LOVELY


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 7 2008, 03:25 PM~10114013
> *My grandmother came over and gave me a bag of tools... 3 sets of brand new sheet metal cutters (straight, curved left, curved right). It's a sign... the rear deck must go...
> *


jigsaw with metal bit is alot easier


----------



## themerc

Found some old pics of my rear deck... I'm putting 6x8's in there, so I'll be cutting out the middle. How much do you guys think I should cut?


----------



## Pitbullx

as much as possible...


----------



## themerc

Does the rear deck add to the structural integrity at all?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 7 2008, 10:55 PM~10117274
> *Does the rear deck add to the structural integrity at all?
> *


dont know bout fords but all of my chevies have the rear decks cutout and no problems what so ever.....


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Mar 8 2008, 12:05 AM~10117334
> *dont know bout fords but all of my chevies have the rear decks cutout and no problems what so ever.....
> *


Alright tomorrow I'll get the bit and go to town lol. Should I cut out behind the arm rest too so I can drop the arm rest and have a hole to the trunk?


----------



## themerc

What do you think, for the new box, should I make it shorter in height? 










Give you a little sneakpeak through the insulation...


















Put a coke can in the middle of the top of the box... lid closes with at least a coke can worth of space above it...


----------



## themerc

I got 2 pairs of infinity kappa 6x8's for $200 at my local shop... talked em down from $260. I also got the sheet metal bit. I'm going to try to get both done before work today. Good news, if I'm keeping this car and running it into the ground, then I don't have to worry about leaving shit stock for the next owner... maybe some fiberglass door pods? :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah, and I was telling Brian about this on aim... the other day I shut my doors and trunk and put the volume on 32 playing some music... my trunk lid was flexing. I popped the trunk afterwards and it ripped the rubber seal around the edge of the trunk, and I did this with the backseat and rear deck carpet off... I wonder how bad it was when everything was in place.


----------



## WhitePapi2006

hey like i told ya take out that hole back deck like mine 
and you got to cut all that insulation down untill you get to the bottm of the seat b/c that is another thing holding the sound in the trunk 

here is a pic of my back dash cut out 
and here is a pic of it with the speakers in it i know i know i got to redo it i just have not have the time money or disire to do it 
i used like 1/4 wood to put back there wrapped in speaker box carpet right now i have some leather i am thinking bout wrapping it in and yes a jig saw on air works great!!!!! :biggrin:  

oh yeah do not cut it all out in the back so you can keep your 3rd break light


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by WhitePapi2006_@Mar 8 2008, 03:03 PM~10121334
> *hey like i told ya take out that hole back deck like mine
> and you got to cut all that insulation down untill you get to the bottm of the seat b/c that is another thing holding the sound in the trunk
> 
> here is a pic of my back dash cut out
> and here is a pic of it with the speakers in it i know i know i got to redo it i just have not have the time money or disire to do it
> i used like 1/4  wood to  put back there wrapped in speaker box carpet right now i have some leather i am thinking bout wrapping it in  and yes a jig saw on air works great!!!!! :biggrin:
> 
> oh yeah do not cut it all out in the back so you can keep your 3rd break light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


that looks like shit meng..... leave your deck cutout and make a beauty panel out of grille cloth to allow the bass to get in the cabin..... having 5454654564 PA speakers fucks up the soundstage and its eating ur bass


----------



## themerc

Yeah I cut a square out of the rear deck and I installed 3 of the 4 infinity kappas before work, which came with crossovers that I didn't even know about by the way.


----------



## themerc

All 4 speakers are installed. I have the gain set at about 40% of the way up. I'm very impressed with the sound quality. I have the volume on 32 and it plays the midbass beats on Top Back, Xxplosive, What's the Difference, and The Watcher pretty well without distortion. I cut the rear deck too. When I played Da Blow on a cd, once I got to volume 30 the CD skipped lol. The coins in my ashtray were bouncing around and my ipod was sliding across the cup holder. I shut the doors and trunk and played different songs on volume 30 or 32 and looked at the car from the outside. The trunk is still flexing a little, but I did notice a strange high pitched buzzing noise that seemed to be coming from the top of my rear window. I pressed down on the top of the window a little and it sounded like it was going to crack.


----------



## themerc

I want to get one of these to monitor my 1000D when I'm driving... will there be a voltage drop from resistance? like say 13.9v at the amp and it reads 13.8v up front?


----------



## themerc

I ordered a pac200 to protect the life of my kinetiks... hopefully it won't harm my voltage... we'll see. And anybody know about the voltmeters?


----------



## themerc

Hey Sporty, you going to Daytona in a couple weeks?


----------



## themerc

I did some testing today. I got out my DMM/clamp and played some 50Hz tones.

This is my gain right now (red dot indicates)...









I did volume 30/40 and sub at 0 on the headunit playing a 50Hz tone. I got 28.6 volts (AC) at the speaker terminals and 19 amps (AC) on the speaker wire, so 543.4 watts. I did volume 32/40 and sub at 0 on the headunit playing a 50Hz tone and got 33.2 volts and 21 amps, so 697.2 watts. I measured the resistance on my sub wires... 1.0 ohm. What's the deal? Why am I only getting 500-700 watts?


----------



## Sporty

that's the 1000.1D sundown?

damn, i dont like where that gain is set... somethings up..


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Mar 16 2008, 07:48 PM~10181871
> *that's the 1000.1D sundown?
> 
> damn, i dont like where that gain is set... somethings up..
> *


Yeah SAE-1000D. I'm giving it 13.95-13.98 volts with the engine running. I'm trying to figure it out on SSA.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=15731


----------



## themerc

We may have found the problem. Jacob (owner of Sundown) thinks my headunit puts out 2V preout when the sub is set at +6, not 0.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 16 2008, 09:16 PM~10182963
> *We may have found the problem. Jacob (owner of Sundown) thinks my headunit puts out 2V preout when the sub is set at +6, not 0.
> *


Yes, the 2v pre-out rating is always MAX on everything, bass, volume, boost, whatever it's got, it's a 2v MAX rating... 

That's why the gain has to be set high, as we went over weeks ago when you asked me...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 16 2008, 10:48 PM~10183276
> *Yes, the 2v pre-out rating is always MAX on everything, bass, volume, boost, whatever it's got, it's a 2v MAX rating...
> 
> That's why the gain has to be set high, as we went over weeks ago when you asked me...
> *


Yeah but we never came to the conclusion that I should set the gain with the headunit at +6.

So for my next headunit, should I go for one with a high preout voltage? lol


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 16 2008, 09:54 PM~10183351
> *Yeah but we never came to the conclusion that I should set the gain with the headunit at +6.
> 
> So for my next headunit, should I go for one with a high preout voltage? lol
> *


Yup, 4-6v is what I'd shoot for...

But I don't think your line input voltage is the whole problem...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 16 2008, 10:56 PM~10183393
> *Yup, 4-6v is what I'd shoot for...
> 
> But I don't think your line input voltage is the whole problem...
> *


Maybe not the entire problem (if you're hinting at my box)... but after 4-5 minutes of 50Hz my sub was warm.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 16 2008, 10:03 PM~10183490
> *Maybe not the entire problem (if you're hinting at my box)... but after 4-5 minutes of 50Hz my sub was warm.
> *


playing tones dont allow the sub to cool......


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 16 2008, 10:03 PM~10183490
> *Maybe not the entire problem (if you're hinting at my box)... but after 4-5 minutes of 50Hz my sub was warm.
> *


damn, 4-5 min tone? what you thought was gonna happen?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Mar 17 2008, 09:33 AM~10186134
> *damn, 4-5 min tone? what you thought was gonna happen?
> *


lol not one tone. 4 or 5 one minute tones. 

You going to SBN in Daytona?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 17 2008, 03:43 PM~10189051
> *lol not one tone. 4 or 5 one minute tones.
> 
> You going to SBN in Daytona?
> *


not gonna be able to make it... wish i could... i wanna take off about 10 days (paid of course :biggrin: ) for my birthday week and then some... planning on going to amsterdam, paris, and i think berlin is in the package.. so, we gotta make sacrifices lol

I've rethought the whole blow threw thing and thinking about 4 SE12's in 7cubes down firing inside w/load board, with precision ports firing forward (getting rid of the back seat of course)...

it was one of those things that cross my mind when i was shopping for a tonneau cover, an upholstery guy, a boot, locking/clamping mechanisms for the inside of the bed, rhyno lining, etc etc

I'll save about $3k by simply unbolting the rear seats, and builing an enclosure right in the back, and i can get the 4 SE12's for about 600 (IDQ12's would be 800)...

so its too hard to not show attention to... and then the debate of will the SE's ported, downfiring w/ load board be louder then the IDQs in a BP w/ same power and same quality install (def. lookin at the SE's to win in that case)


----------



## themerc

Yeah I came to that conclusion about putting my spare tire in the backseat. How often do I have more than 1 passenger? Not very often.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 17 2008, 03:56 PM~10189146
> *Yeah I came to that conclusion about putting my spare tire in the backseat. How often do I have more than 1 passenger? Not very often.
> *


yeah... its mostly just me in the truck (or me and one other person)... made an effort not to be anyones cab or moving company. but i would save ALOT by takin that back seat out.. and 4 SE12's ported on 2400wRMS right at your back aint gonna be no child's play so..

thank god for brian and 1ofaknd... They took alot of time on teaching me to WAIT before i buy somethin; i can have a change of heart in a second (i was going through equipment every 3 or so weeks because the second my mind fell on it, i bought it)


----------



## themerc

ha yeah that's pretty ridiculous. I'm curious to see Sundown Audio's new 8" woofers that can take 200rms easily and be run in TINY boxes. Check out the Sundown section of SSA. I think they're going to go for around $50 each.


----------



## Pitbullx

downfire the subs and ports sporty.......


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Mar 17 2008, 05:34 PM~10189871
> *downfire the subs and ports sporty.......
> *


Subs up ports up is louder in the back of a truck, SPL wise...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Mar 17 2008, 05:34 PM~10189871
> *downfire the subs and ports sporty.......
> *


yeh, you did advice me to do that once (i forgot)... just have everything firing down... guess i'll have to do some sort of view window (plexi) so that i dont have an entire front panel(s) of nothingness. what about the volume and tuning pit? That's about the best i can do with out pushing things (trying to stick within a boundary so i can have 4" from sub at max excursion to the load board and also have space for the amp rack to go on top and still be under the window line).

ALSO, to downfire ports, i'm going to have to knock it down to the 3"ID flared ports... I wouldnt be able to fit the 4"ers without elbows and making the mounting baffle bigger.

but a 3" to an SE12 shouldnt choke it


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 17 2008, 07:22 PM~10190823
> *Subs up ports up is louder in the back of a truck, SPL wise...
> *


true true, but you know i like to build sql street beaters... 

btw, my cdt's came in [email protected]

so now i can start on the kicks (themerc, lets go ahead and ship out these midranges)

this friday i'll order two SE12's... i just cant pass up the thought of saving 3k and still having a comp. worthy system. i'll order the other two next check


----------



## themerc

Sporty have you come up with a final list of equipment for the truck?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 17 2008, 07:22 PM~10190823
> *Subs up ports up is louder in the back of a truck, SPL wise...
> *


true but you get a deeper fuller sound downfiring in my experiences......

I wish he would stop being a gurl and wall that bitch off :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

Hey what do you guys think of Sundown's 8's they're going to be selling pre-sale? 
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=11455

200 rms watts, 4.25" mounting depth, 0.5 cubes ported @ 30Hz, $65 shipped


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Mar 18 2008, 04:33 PM~10198812
> *true but you get a deeper fuller sound downfiring in my experiences......
> 
> I wish he would stop being a gurl and wall that bitch off :biggrin:
> *



lol... i think im pushing it with what im doing... believe it or not, the se has been my dream woofer since i got serious in the car audio world (as you can see, im still a noob  ) i just never owned a vehicle or was willing to do an install where i could use them. So now i got the money, the willing to do the install, and idea... time to get crunk


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 18 2008, 04:38 PM~10198846
> *Hey what do you guys think of Sundown's 8's they're going to be selling pre-sale?
> http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=11455
> 
> 200 rms watts, 4.25" mounting depth, 0.5 cubes ported @ 30Hz, $65 shipped
> *


i'd say its worth a show and tell.. for some reason, ppl dont want 8's now and days because i cant sell those 8's for nothin... I'm just going to put them in one of my homegirl's car and build a slot vent enclosure for them... she just gotta come up with the funds for an amp and wiring...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Mar 19 2008, 11:07 AM~10204354
> *i'd say its worth a show and tell.. for some reason, ppl dont want 8's now and days because i cant sell those 8's for nothin... I'm just going to put them in one of my homegirl's car and build a slot vent enclosure for them... she just gotta come up with the funds for an amp and wiring...
> *


Yeah I'm thinking 4 of those Sundown 8's ported... 2 cubes @ 30Hz, and if I ever get another 1000D I can pickup 4 more.... eight 8's just sound sick lol.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2008, 02:44 PM~10206627
> *Yeah I'm thinking 4 of those Sundown 8's ported... 2 cubes @ 30Hz, and if I ever get another 1000D I can pickup 4 more.... eight 8's just sound sick lol.
> *



what the hell bro! buy these ID8's!!! they came in 2nd to the w78 in the great 8 challenge and turned out to be a fine woofer.

have no use for 'em... If i dont sell them before my homegirl buys an amp and wiring (and such), i'm just gonna build a slot vent and give her all 4 so she can punk these cat's with their "gorilla beatin" system


----------



## themerc

Are they in 100% working condition? Cosmetics? Impedance?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2008, 04:30 PM~10207512
> *Are they in 100% working condition? Cosmetics? Impedance?
> *


If you would visit more...  

http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10648


----------



## themerc

They look pretty beat.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2008, 07:54 PM~10209148
> *They look pretty beat.
> *


Looks like they have sawdust on them to me, read the description of the condition... :uh:


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 19 2008, 08:10 PM~10209291
> *Looks like they have sawdust on them to me, read the description of the condition...  :uh:
> *


thanks for checking out those black markings that are above and next to the pictures in my post... glad you found them helpful


----------



## themerc

Assuming they look new after you clean all that shit off, I'll give you $125 shipped.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2008, 09:01 PM~10209802
> *Assuming they look new after you clean all that shit off, I'll give you $125 shipped.
> *



for what? 4... 

2 of them used, 2 of them new (being the ones with saw dust on them)... lol you know i didnt buy those more then a couple months ago..

im str8 kid, imma give them away to a friend anyhow... damn, i feel disrespected... bite the hand that feeds? wow

keep your pussy ass 5.25's too


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## themerc

Do what you want. People don't buy things because they feel bad for the seller, they buy things if they want them. I'm not willing to pay $275+shipping, I'm willing to pay $125 shipped. I'm not trying to "disrespect" you. Did everyone else who looked at your sale and didn't even make an offer disrespect you too?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2008, 10:11 PM~10210540
> *Do what you want. People don't buy things because they feel bad for the seller, they buy things if they want them. I'm not willing to pay $275+shipping, I'm willing to pay $125 shipped. I'm not trying to "disrespect" you. Did everyone else who looked at your sale and didn't even make an offer disrespect you too?
> *


125 shipped is a bullshit ass offer and if you had half a brain you would know that.....


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Mar 20 2008, 12:17 AM~10211167
> *125 shipped is a bullshit ass offer and if you had half a brain you would know that.....
> *


$125>$0, nothing's stopping him from making a counter offer, and I never said I was interested in his subs... I was interested in the Sundown's... so if you're going to push something on someone don't get offended if they give you a low offer.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2008, 11:20 PM~10211206
> *$125>$0, nothing's stopping him from making a counter offer, and I never said I was interested in his subs... I was interested in the Sundown's... so if you're going to push something on someone don't get offended if they give you a low offer.
> *


dont sweat it bro... i can do without your $125.  

and def. didnt push anything on you... you showed interest in 8's, im selling them for dirt cheap as is, ranked very well in the great 8" challenge, and that's that...


enjoy


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## themerc

Well my pac200 came in. Where's the best place to hook the remote wire to?


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## OldDirty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 22 2008, 01:55 PM~10229296
> *Well my pac200 came in. Where's the best place to hook the remote wire to?
> *


Run it to you fuse box to any line that doesn't have any voltage with the ignition off.


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## themerc

The top picture is how they recommend wiring the pac200 in. 

The bottom picture is how I was planning on doing it. Does that look good? (I'd have a fuse on the wire from alt+ to front battery+ though)


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## 1ofaknd

electrically speaking..those pictures are the same


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## themerc

Okay good. That's what I'm doing.

Oh yeah, my neighbor is trying to sell me a pioneer deh p7400mp for $50.


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## themerc

My Velleman HPS10 oscilloscope came in. I'm going to have to figure out how to use before SBN in Daytona tomorrow.


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## themerc

Well I've got a Kicker ZX350.2 lying around collecting dust, so I want to use it. I can't decide whether to have it power another set of speakers in the front or power some marine speakers behind the grille for messing around lol.


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## themerc

Well my Panasonic headunit finally crapped out. Circuit City is going to give me a $165 gift certificate for it since it was under warranty. I don't think they carry Panasonic anymore so I was thinking Pioneer...

DEHP4000UB $180
DEHP5900IB $180
DEHP5000UB $220
DEHP6900UB $230
DEHP6000UB $280

What do you guys think?



comparison


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## 1ofaknd

the only thing the 6000 has the others don't, is a preamp input, and HD radio capability, not worth the extra money imo.

the 4000 only has 2 rca outputs versus 6 or 4 on the others, so forget that one.

that leaves you three options. the only difference between those three, are one only has 4 rca outputs. so toss that one aside.

so now you are left with the 5900 and the 6900. I see no difference between the two by looking at the details in that chart, so go with the cheaper 5900 for $179











Now that was a little common sense and simple reasoning skills, and you should have easily been able to come to the same conclusion. Why you ask us all these petty questions, i will never understand.


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## themerc

Alright.


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## themerc

I got the new 5000. It turns out Circuit City's website was wrong... it has 3 pairs of preouts, aux, and usb.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 8 2008, 09:36 PM~10368103
> *I got the new 5000. It turns out Circuit City's website was wrong... it has 3 pairs of preouts, aux, and usb.
> *



what's new.. same for bestbuy..

best bet is to go to the manufacturer site for spec info (for future reference)


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Apr 9 2008, 12:20 PM~10371863
> *what's new.. same for bestbuy..
> 
> best bet is to go to the manufacturer site for spec info (for future reference)
> *


Yeah I should've. I was on their website anyway because I had to buy through them to take advantage of the $107 gift card... didn't think Circuit City could screw something up so simple. This one has 4v preouts... none of that 2v crap anymore. This one also has the USB for the ipod and supposedly you can scroll through artists really easily so I'll let you guys know how that goes.


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## themerc

Well the 5000 is up and running. It has more features than the Panasonic CQ-C7103U... I especially like the high pass filter. It seemed like I could get the speakers a lot louder with more clarity and less distortion from bass. I still like the motorized faceplate the Panasonic had though, so this will take some getting used to. As for the ipod, you can scroll through artist, albums, etc. on the headunit pretty fast, but obviously not as fast as the ipod itself so I think I'll use the aux too in case I get sick of scrolling on the headunit (and so friends with other mp3 players can hook theirs up to my headunit). The gain on my 100.4 is about 45% up and it sounds good. I haven't set the 1000D's gain yet, but even with the gain all the way down it bumps pretty hard... I like those 4V preouts.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 9 2008, 09:48 PM~10377385
> *Well the 5000 is up and running. It has more features than the Panasonic CQ-C7103U... I especially like the high pass filter. It seemed like I could get the speakers a lot louder with more clarity and less distortion from bass. I still like the motorized faceplate the Panasonic had though, so this will take some getting used to. As for the ipod, you can scroll through artist, albums, etc. on the headunit pretty fast, but obviously not as fast as the ipod itself so I think I'll use the aux too in case I get sick of scrolling on the headunit (and so friends with other mp3 players can hook theirs up to my headunit). The gain on my 100.4 is about 45% up and it sounds good. I haven't set the 1000D's gain yet, but even with the gain all the way down it bumps pretty hard... I like those 4V preouts.
> *


your pana didnt have high and low filters? this is a whole new world for you i bet lol


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Apr 9 2008, 10:59 PM~10377508
> *your pana didnt have high and low filters? this is a whole new world for you i bet lol
> *


It only had a low pass filter. I've got both of them set at 80Hz right now on the pioneer. Tomorrow I'm gunna play with the o-scope and the 1000D.


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## themerc

Hey I was curious what you guys think of these regulator controls...

http://missinglinkaudio.com/

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=18890

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=16417

I know Brian was looking at them too. Pit, Sporty, 1ofaknd... what do you guys know about them?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 13 2008, 08:03 AM~10403612
> *Hey I was curious what you guys think of these regulator controls...
> 
> http://missinglinkaudio.com/
> 
> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=18890
> 
> http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=16417
> 
> I know Brian was looking at them too. Pit, Sporty, 1ofaknd... what do you guys know about them?
> *


Im the one that showed Brian  after steve txt'd me about them
Im getting a couple for my cars


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 13 2008, 10:32 AM~10403832
> *Im the one that showed Brian    after steve txt'd me about them
> Im getting a couple for my cars
> *


Are you using the standard 15.1v standard setpoint?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 13 2008, 09:35 AM~10403844
> *Are you using the standard 15.1v standard setpoint?
> *


[no]


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 13 2008, 01:37 PM~10404750
> *[no]
> *


...well what are you going to have them set it to?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 13 2008, 01:18 PM~10404906
> *...well what are you going to have them set it to?
> *


a higher voltage


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 13 2008, 02:25 PM~10404938
> *a higher voltage
> *


Such as? :angry:


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 13 2008, 01:26 PM~10404940
> *Such as?  :angry:
> *


g14 classified


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 13 2008, 03:35 PM~10405331
> *g14 classified
> *


bastard lol


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 13 2008, 10:41 PM~10408666
> *bastard lol
> *


 :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## themerc

UPDATE:

I took my car to my local shop today and spent an hour with one of the guys tuning my amps and headunit. It sounds sooo much better and louder. He just suggested adding some tweeters in the front pillars. He said other than that, it sounds perfect. I need to make some new videos, but I'm going to bring it in again on Monday after I hookup the bass knob and stinger voltmeter. Oh and I played hood ***** by gorilla zoe for my manager after work and I blew my 40A mini-anl fuse on my 1000D's 4 gauge power wire. What size do you think I should order?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 19 2008, 11:22 PM~10456792
> *I blew my 40A mini-anl fuse on my 1000D's 4 gauge power wire. What size do you think I should order?
> *


wtf do u have a 40amp fuse on that shit for....


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 20 2008, 01:20 AM~10457133
> *wtf do u have a 40amp fuse on that shit for....
> *


lol I have 1/0 gauge coming off one of the kinetiks then it goes into a mini-anl fused distribution block and splits into two 4 gauge power wires for the two amps... but no one around here sells mini-anl fuses so I was using the 40A fuses from my kicker setup. I guess it's time to order some bigger mini-anls. Knukonceptz has them as high as 150A.

Oh kind of random but I found it interesting...

I installed my two kicker 400.1's and cvr12's in my friends volvo and used a knukonceptz amp kit... well he calls me up after a couple weeks saying his amps are going into protection so I pull out my DMM and start checking shit out. He was getting 13.9v at his battery and 9v at the amps, so I check the mini-anl fuse. It wasn't blown, but I replaced the whole fuse holder and fuse with an AGU I had laying around and then it worked fine.


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## Pitbullx

um those amps are internally fused, theres no need to fuse the wire between the block and the amp.....


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 20 2008, 11:26 AM~10458643
> *um those amps are internally fused, theres no need to fuse the wire between the block and the amp.....
> *


This is my setup now... 









Is this what I should do?


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## 1ofaknd

40 amp is pretty small for a 4awg wire, i would use a 100 or a 125 on it.


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## themerc

Well I ended up doing the second picture. 200A fuse on the 1/0 gauge before the block... no fuses on the 4 gauge wires after the block (they're 1/2 - 1 foot long).

I installed my stinger voltmeter... hookup it up to my 1000D. Do they normally need to be adjusted? I noticed a 0.1v difference between the DMM and the stinger voltmeter. The stinger was showing 0.1v higher. 

Once I find my bass knob I'm going to hook that up to the 1000D and install it up in the front.


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## themerc

The flash at night really shows off my dust.


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## themerc

Alright I adjusted the stinger. It's now accurate to within 0.05 volts.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 21 2008, 11:33 AM~10465986
> *Alright I adjusted the stinger. It's now accurate to within 0.05 volts.
> *


do you work or go to school lol? today's monday.. how come u get to work on ur car?


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Apr 21 2008, 12:34 PM~10465996
> *do you work or go to school lol? today's monday.. how come u get to work on ur car?
> *


I have school Mon-Fri and work Fri-Sun nights, but right now I'm on spring break lol.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 21 2008, 11:36 AM~10466008
> *I have school Mon-Fri and work Fri-Sun nights, but right now I'm on spring break lol.
> *


oh okay... i forgot there was a spring break... guess im movin on up in the years lol


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## themerc

I got the bass knob in. I was at my local shop and they were playing with it for like 30 minutes with the engine running and the lowest voltage drop I got was 13.2v playing some really heavy stuff at full tilt. I might have Nate install a voltage regulator that would allow me to adjust the alternator up to 15.5v (for daily) from inside the car. $135


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## Pitbullx

I really dont see the use in you having the adjustable voltage regulator installed......


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 21 2008, 05:53 PM~10468090
> *I really dont see the use in you having the adjustable voltage regulator installed......
> *


Would you feel the same way if I got a second 1000D?


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## Pitbullx

and now that I think about it your underhood battery WILL NOT like a 15v+ charge


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## themerc

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=16906


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## themerc

If I wanted to hookup my CDT tweeters to my headunit with no CDT 5.25's, would I just run the headunit speaker wires to the crossover then hook the tweeter to the crossover and not use the "woofer" inputs on the crossover? Or go headunit speaker wire directly to the tweeter?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 21 2008, 07:37 PM~10469279
> *If I wanted to hookup my CDT tweeters to my headunit with no CDT 5.25's, would I just run the headunit speaker wires to the crossover then hook the tweeter to the crossover and not use the "woofer" inputs on the crossover? Or go headunit speaker wire directly to the tweeter?
> *


if i had to choose between the two options you have up there.. I'd do the second one so you can see what happens to tweeters when you send a signal to them their not designed to recreate 

if anything, send the source to the crossover and from the crossover to the tweeter... take your DMM and see where your at (on the source input) before you connect to the headunit (but with the tweeter connected)


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## themerc

Alright, I know I have yet to get you guys some videos since I put in the Pioneer 5000, bass knob, and had it tuned, but I've got some good news...

A kid here in town has a Mercury Marauder with two 15" L7's and a 1600 watt amp and my friend has listened to both of our stereos and he said he can't tell which is louder, they're too close. I haven't heard the other kid's in person yet.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 7 2008, 06:52 PM~10602493
> *Alright, I know I have yet to get you guys some videos since I put in the Pioneer 5000, bass knob, and had it tuned, but I've got some good news...
> 
> A kid here in town has a Mercury Marauder with two 15" L7's and a 1600 watt amp and my friend has listened to both of our stereos and he said he can't tell which is louder, they're too close. I haven't heard the other kid's in person yet.
> *


more cone area and power.....


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 7 2008, 08:25 PM~10602708
> *more cone area and power.....
> *


Yet my friend still thinks they're even. I have a feeling his are sealed.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 7 2008, 08:08 PM~10603052
> *Yet my friend still thinks they're even. I have a feeling his are sealed.
> *


even if his are sealed it should be very close....
he has twice the cone area but your box will give more output..... basically boils down to install


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