# DIY Wireless Remote for Air Suspension



## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

So I have been looking around for a remote that I can control my bags with from far away but I actually didn’t have that much luck. The kits I did find were pretty expensive so I actually found a thread on another forum so I decided to look into it. It seemed pretty good so I bought the stuff. I figure I can do a little better write up so enjoy 

BTW, this is the link for the thread: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/pilot-w...-how-to-335005/

You need to start by picking up the Pilot 4 Channel Wireless Remote from Amazon. 


















Everyone said they sold it at Autozone back in the day but when I went there, the lady took a look and they no longer sell it. Here is the link that I bought
http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Performance-Li...s/dp/B000BRJF62

Next, head to Radioshack or another electronics store to pick up some diodes.










This way, when you hook up the box to your current switch box setup, your wires aren’t ‘crossed’ and your switches all work correctly. Off the recommendation on the other site, I bought the 3amp, 200PIV ones. Depending on how you will utilize the remote, it will depend how many diodes you need. I bought 8 for my setup.

Since the switch has 4 buttons, obviously I need to choose what I want each one to do. So I figure I will have 1 be pancake down, 2 be front up, 3 be rear up, and 4 will be open for now (hopefully a remote trunk pop). So, for this setup you need 8 diodes since i will be activating 8 valves; 4 for the pancake, 2 for front up and 2 for rear up.

So now that I know what I want the buttons to do, its time to start working on this. The first thing you need to do is open up the receiver box.










There are 4 screws on the bottom of the box. You need to take a look at the circuit board and you will see these 4 jumpers. To change the switches from on/off to momentary, all you need to do is move the jumpers so they are only sitting on one peg. 


















It is very easy. Put it all back together and you are ready to hook this up.

I have my switch box wires match up with my valves right behind my back seat at this junction box so it will be easy to hook up the remote box.










As far as wiring this thing up, its pretty simple. Run the red/back wire combo to 12v and ground. I hooked up the red one to the wire I already have hooked up to my switch box. This way, the receiver box will always be on. Be sure to pick this wire carefully since you will want it to be getting power when the car is off.

The wiring harness has a pair of the following colored wires: Green, Grey, Brown and Blue. Since there is no polarity on these wires, it doesn’t matter which wire, out of the pair, you run as positive or negative. 

Since I want my number 1 button to be all dump, I will take the grey wires, hook one up to constant 12 volt (same wire that I hooked up the red wire to), and then the somewhat tricky part begins. Since this one wire needs to active 4 valves, I obviously will need to crimp 4 wires into this 1. Then, I will need to add 1 diode to each of the 4 wires. Remember, diodes have polarity so make sure you hook them up in the correct fashion. The diode has a silver stripe on one end of the barrel… this is the ‘exit’ side per say. See the diagram below:










Then, I will run a wire from each diode to the appropriate valve. This is the CCE box wiring diagram:

10 Switch Pre-wired Box
For FBSS Air Suspension Kit
Black_________________ Front Left Pressure 
Brown _________________ Front Right Pressure 
Purple_________________ Rear Left Pressure 
Blue_________________ Rear Right Pressure 
Orange_________________ Front Left Exhaust 
Yellow_________________ Front Right Exhaust 
Green_________________ Rear Left Exhaust 
White_________________ Rear Right Exhaust 
Red _________________12 Volt Power Supply 

So I will run one wire to each of the following colors: Orange, Yellow, Green, and White. Then I am done with button 1. Button 2 and 3 will be the same, only since I will only be utilizing 2 valves for each button, I only need to run two wires off of each color. See the diagram below.










After this, I am just going to run the antenna wire to the bottom of the rear window so I can get better reception and I’m done!

Now I am still waiting to get 4 more diodes so I can do this, but this is more of an instruction manual for all of you, as well as me. When I actually put this in, I will post up installation pics and a video to show everyone that it works uffin:

Any questions/comments, let me know :biggrin:


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

Pretty sweet :biggrin:


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## DETACHED (Mar 13, 2006)

nice i wanna see this working would be nice.


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by DETACHED_@Nov 28 2010, 07:26 PM~19184245
> *nice i wanna see this working would be nice.
> *


X2 :biggrin:


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## SuicidedRegal (Aug 12, 2009)

My AVS remotes have buttons on it for bags that you just wire the harness into the AVS switchbox. Is that the same idea?


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by SuicidedRegal_@Nov 29 2010, 11:18 AM~19189176
> *My AVS remotes have buttons on it for bags that you just wire the harness into the AVS switchbox. Is that the same idea?
> *


I guess so? I'm not sure. But I didn't want to get a new switch box and crap so I figured this would work out good for cheap


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

I bought the rest of the diodes today and when i was thinking about soldering them to the wires, I had a pretty cool idea. I think it would be sweet to have a custom circuit board made that would have the Pilot controller wires soldered into it and then the circuits would split up the wires and run the current through the diodes, then I would just solder another set of wires to that and run it to my valves.

When i was in HS i made my own circuit board so I know at least one place I could possibly get it done. There are places online that do it but i think that would cost me a shitload. 

It would look something like this:









Where the big vertical gaps are is where the diodes would be soldered

I may just head to radioshack and buy a breadboard and make it myself. I think it will save me time and clutter in the long run...


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

well this is the breadbaord i picked up from Radioshack. The only pain in the ass is that the leads on the diodes are slightly bigger than the holes on the board so i will need to drill them out a little to get the diodes in there. Shouldnt be too terrible but it still sucks


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

nice bro! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by goinlow_@Nov 30 2010, 01:01 PM~19200567
> *nice bro!  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
> *


thanks homie :biggrin:


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

So i got the board all put together and it works perfect! I tested it out with a 12 volt inverter that I have. 

I started with the pancake hook up. Make sure when you are soldering diodes that you use a heat sink since they can easily be damaged by heat









As you can see, i really fucked up that jumper wire, but i ended up ditching it by the end anyway









After the pancake was done, i started on the two fill hook ups

















After i removed the jumper....









Pic of the back.... i havent soldered since HS so i dont think its that bad :cheesy:










Then I began soldering the wires from the box directly to the breadboard. 









Here it is all complete. I still need to solder the wires that will actually go to the valves... but i am waiting until i can get back there to measure the wires so i can have a clean install uffin:


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

I found the controllers new home. Now that I know how long the wires need to be, I just have a little more soldering to do and I'm ready to install :biggrin:


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## lmeano (May 24, 2010)

Thanks for the write up! I just ordered one from Amazon! :biggrin:


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by lmeano_@Dec 2 2010, 11:39 PM~19224270
> *Thanks for the write up! I just ordered one from Amazon! :biggrin:
> *


That's what I like to hear! That's why I like to do write ups like this, to show other people how easy things can be and that you can save alotta money by doing it yourself :biggrin:


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

Got the wires soldered on. All that's left is crimping on the ring terminals and hookin this puppy up


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

You know its funny.Out of all the posts i've read an seen.You an i are about the only ones that actually take the time an put the primary in a drill chuck an make for a clean install.Even in the car audio forums its rare.When i was installing i was taught by a old school installer been doing it since the late 70's.That was one of the tricks i learned an still use today


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Dec 3 2010, 05:17 PM~19230222
> *You know its funny.Out of all the posts i've read an seen.You an i are about the only ones that actually take the time an put the primary in a drill chuck an make for a clean install.Even in the car audio forums its rare.When i was installing i was taught by a old school installer been doing it since the late 70's.That was one of the tricks i learned an still use today
> *


Haha I hear ya. I'm prolly still gona put em in a loom


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## starion88esir (Oct 19, 2008)

I have a viper 5701 with 4 additional auxiliary channels, I just found a use for three of them once I get my air ride installed. Would I need to open the brain or would they already be set up for momentary?

Very cool on the circuit board how to. When soldering the back you need to make sure the two rows don't touch each other correct?


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by starion88esir_@Dec 3 2010, 07:14 PM~19230984
> *I have a viper 5701 with 4 additional auxiliary channels, I just found a use for three of them once I get my air ride installed. Would I need to open the brain or would they already be set up for momentary?
> 
> Very cool on the circuit board how to. When soldering the back you need to make sure the two rows don't touch each other correct?
> *


I bet its already set for momentary so you should be good

And that's right. I don't have any jumping that would affect the circuits


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## starion88esir (Oct 19, 2008)

I was just double checking to be certain, viewing the site on my cell makes some photos hard to see. Thanks again for the detailed right up.


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

Its done! It works great. Video is being uploaded now. Here are some final install pics


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)




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## TheThrowedMex (Jun 20, 2010)

ima have to favorite this tread for when im ready!!


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by TheThrowedMex_@Dec 4 2010, 07:23 PM~19238616
> *ima have to favorite this tread for when im ready!!
> *


:thumbsup:


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

awesome work bro, cant wait to see it in person !!!


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## Bigjxloc (Jan 24, 2006)

good job bro.


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by goinlow+Dec 7 2010, 07:55 AM~19261121-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks homie. It was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Dec 8 2010, 09:03 AM~19270702
> *Hell yah bro. Hopefully the temps will get above 30 sometime soon so I can actually take her out for a spin.
> 
> Ps. U like all those toyotas we have? :biggrin: uffin:
> ...


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

Got to play with this on saturday. Range wasn't quite as far as I had hoped but I couldn't see the car that well so I will need to try in an empty parking lot next time we get some nice weather


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## trickedout65 (Nov 21, 2004)

thats a good idea! i used to have one of those for my neons in my old car :biggrin:


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## trickedout65 (Nov 21, 2004)

last post sounded like i was being a ass but good job keep up with your good creations


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by trickedout65_@Dec 20 2010, 09:33 PM~19379077
> *last post sounded like i was being a ass but good job keep up with  your good creations
> *


Thanks homie. The whole thing cost around $40 so its a pretty cheap alternative to some of the pre-made ones


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68 (Jul 5, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Dec 4 2010, 04:33 PM~19238279
> *
> 
> 
> ...


 :0 crazy


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## hearse (Oct 20, 2005)

i had it on my hearse for the flashing headlights when i was parked places. they would go off by themselves because of that box intercepting signals. so carefull


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by hearse_@Dec 21 2010, 01:16 PM~19384817
> *i had it on my hearse for the flashing headlights when i was parked places. they would go off by themselves because of that box intercepting signals. so carefull
> *


true, I do have it running through a cut off switch so if I'm ever crawling underneath, I'll just turn it off


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## 93candylac (Oct 29, 2006)

so do you have to have the engine on for this to work properly?


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 93candylac_@Dec 27 2010, 09:20 PM~19434378
> *so do you have to have the engine on for this to work properly?
> *


No, it works with the car off or on. The car was running in the video because I started it up and let it warm up before I took it for a spin.


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## 93candylac (Oct 29, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Dec 28 2010, 10:44 AM~19439157
> *No, it works with the car off or on. The car was running in the video because I started it up and let it warm up before I took it for a spin.
> *


 :cheesy: nice. something else added to my wish list.


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