# to prime the whole car or not?



## jumper (Jan 21, 2002)

Ok just a quick question. lets say your painting a whole car. was green now your going to red or somthing. and you have body work on quarter and fender, now before you paint should you seal the whole car to give you an even color to work off of? or should you just prime the worked areas and scuff the rest of the car and spray it?


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## mrlowrider209 (Aug 7, 2008)

seal the entire car otherwise you're going to have different shades when you shoot the paint.


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## elspock84 (Feb 1, 2005)

> _Originally posted by mrlowrider209_@May 16 2011, 05:35 PM~20564679
> *seal the entire car otherwise you're going to have different shades when you shoot the paint.
> *


x2


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## klownin530 (Feb 20, 2011)

> _Originally posted by mrlowrider209_@May 16 2011, 03:35 PM~20564679
> *seal the entire car otherwise you're going to have different shades when you shoot the paint.
> *



x63


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## Duez (Feb 23, 2009)

Just primer that spot.


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## jumper (Jan 21, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Lord Duez_@May 16 2011, 07:00 PM~20565770
> *Just primer that spot.
> *


And then just scuff the rest of the car and spray it? Someone said I should just go over the spot that has primer with a coat of color first then let that tack and then spray the rest of the car.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

Id seal the entire car bcause you might not know what type of paint was used if the car was ever repainted. You might get bad reactions hno:


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

no need to prime the whole car... spot prime over any body work and sanding scratches you made then prep the car with 500 or 600 and spray....make sure to wipe with wax and grease remover


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## chef (Apr 18, 2009)

i would say the whole car just because of the shades of color your going to get when the two colors lay ontop of each other


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## Maximus1959 (Sep 4, 2007)

Now your probably really confused, based off the responses you got.

I would look at it from the perspective of what you plan to do with the car. If you plan on keeping it for a short period of time and selling it, then take short cuts and just prime the body work areas and paint it. Unless your painting it a lighter color, such as white.

If this is a longterm project and potential show car, then seal it correctly and be safe. You figure it is fairly minimal cost to seal it, versus if you have an issue down the road and have to re paint the entire car. Better safe then sorry.

I'm not a painter, but I understand the process and have played with paint trying to learn. I say do it right the first time and avoid wasting money.


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## Bigjxloc (Jan 24, 2006)

Spot prime your repair areas with a high build primer. Sand with 400 grit then seal with a like colored sealer.
to be honest if your spraying a dark color you could probably get away without using a sealer. But better safe then sorry.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Maximus1959_@May 17 2011, 01:30 PM~20570574
> *Now your probably really confused, based off the responses you got.
> 
> I would look at it from the perspective of what you plan to do with the car. If you plan on keeping it for a short period of time and selling it, then take short cuts and just prime the body work areas and paint it. Unless your painting it a lighter color, such as white.
> ...



yeah I said what i said cause Im painting white over a previous maaco enamel paint job


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## Duez (Feb 23, 2009)

Shoot a sealer if anything. Don't spray some heavy ass primer thats used to fill in scratches and then have to sand the entire car again. Spot prime, sealer if you're worried about it and spray the car.


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## Duez (Feb 23, 2009)

> _Originally posted by KAKALAK_@May 17 2011, 01:33 PM~20571258
> *yeah I said what i said cause Im painting white over a previous maaco enamel paint job
> *


Soda blast, prime, paint. :biggrin:


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## jumper (Jan 21, 2002)

ok thanks guys for all the input. so i guess either way is the right way, it just depends on how much my customer is wanting to spend and what kinda look they are going for. in des moines iowa there are some cheap bastards that a lot of times just want a new coat of paint on there whip dont care about a show room shine. but im only charging between 5-600 for a full car paint job. i just painted a car last week and i primed the whole thing, used that thick filler primer. that really sucked, lesson learned.


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## hi_ryder (Jan 22, 2007)

for 5 to 600 id be spot priming like a patch work quilt all over the car. if your worried about coverage with a red metallic just use a similar color in a basecoat like a light pink or something (over the whole car) then like 3 or 4 healthy coats of top color before clear. i dont know what this whole sealing craze thing is, if an existing clear coat or 2k color isnt fucked or peeling or what ever theres no reason to spray a sealer over it. just rub it well and the paint will stick. the more material you put on the car before clear the rougher the final finish is going to be and the more work you have to do to get i looking right... the only time i use a sealer is if im painting over a car that has problems with the paint like acrylic thats frying up or reacting when over coated with bases or clears, and only then cause the customer or insurance wont pay to do it properly....


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## crenshaw magraw (Apr 10, 2002)

what do u mean by seal the car, do u guys mean to primer the whole car before u paint it?
or to apply sealer on the seams?

sorry for the dumb question.


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## streetking (Feb 4, 2004)

for 5 to 600 id just wash the car and hand it back to em!!!!!


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## sic713 (Jan 17, 2005)

> _Originally posted by streetking_@May 17 2011, 08:47 PM~20574723
> *for 5 to 600 id just wash the car and hand it back to em!!!!!
> *


 :wow:


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## JustCruisin (Jan 19, 2004)

:rofl:


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## Duez (Feb 23, 2009)

> _Originally posted by crenshaw magraw_@May 17 2011, 08:17 PM~20573908
> *what do u mean by seal the car, do u guys mean to primer the whole car before u paint it?
> or to apply sealer on the seams?
> 
> ...


Its really thin crap that you spray over a crappy paint job before you shoot the base so the new chemicals won't react to the ones underneath. It's actually called sealer.


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## hi_ryder (Jan 22, 2007)

id say for 5 to 600 means your getting a little money to learn how to paint cars. practice makes perfect and you cant learn anything if you dont make mistakes. i saw sic's eyes poping out but remember guys hes not a pro painter... when i was an apprentice at a shop i was getting $220 a week australian dollars and i had to work overtime for free so it was 50 hours a week and a sore ass from gettin fucked... if someone handed me 600 bucks id have creamed my pants...


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Lord Duez_@May 17 2011, 04:10 PM~20571462
> *Soda blast, prime, paint. :biggrin:
> *


yeah this is a front yard build and my 1st full paint job..... so I'll seal it for now and rock it a year or 2.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jumper_@May 17 2011, 04:27 PM~20571595
> *ok thanks guys for all the input. so i guess either way is the right way, it just depends on how much my customer is wanting to spend and what kinda look they are going for. in des moines iowa there are some cheap bastards that a lot of times just want a new coat of paint on there whip dont care about a show room shine. but im only charging between 5-600 for a full car paint job. i just painted a car last week and i primed the whole thing, used that thick filler primer. that really sucked, lesson learned.
> *


I use a primer that doubles as a sealer when you add reducer. It sprays pretty flat :dunno: try that


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## jumper (Jan 21, 2002)

> _Originally posted by hi_ryder_@May 18 2011, 02:06 AM~20576182
> *id say for 5 to 600 means your getting a little money to learn how to paint cars. practice makes perfect and you cant learn anything if you dont make mistakes. i saw sic's eyes poping out but remember guys hes not a pro painter... when i was an apprentice at a shop i was getting $220 a week australian dollars and i had to work overtime for free so it was 50 hours a week and a sore ass from gettin fucked...  if someone handed me 600 bucks id have creamed my pants...
> *



and thats the way i look at it, i have a full time job now that pays the bills. all im looking to do is get my name out there and get some experience. i dont mind almost working for free, as long as i can make enough to cover my shop rent and power, plus have a little extra change to throw at somthing im happy. if i wasnt doing this after work i would be sitting at home watchin tv or playing zombies :biggrin:


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## jumper (Jan 21, 2002)

> _Originally posted by KAKALAK_@May 18 2011, 07:19 AM~20576806
> *I use a primer that doubles as a sealer when you add reducer. It sprays pretty flat :dunno: try that
> *



ya ive heard of that stuff, that would be nice. what brand? and what is the issue with doing this with any type of 2k primer?


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jumper_@May 18 2011, 02:29 PM~20578626
> *ya ive heard of that stuff, that would be nice. what brand? and what is the issue with doing this with any type of 2k primer?
> *


Its ppg shop line, it is a high build without reducing and can be used as a sealer if reduced, I think buy reducing you still get that barrier but without the thickness.


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## Duez (Feb 23, 2009)

If that shit's catalyzed, you're gonna have to spray your base before it completely hardens or you'll have to sand the whole car anyway.


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

light color (met silver, yellow, sky blue) or cheap paint, ur primer spots prob will bleed through.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)




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