# fiberglass?



## nvrhapy (Jul 28, 2002)

i'm trying to complete a fiberglass enclosure my problem is i keep getting tiny pin holes in the body filler that i lay over the glass what should i do. ( the process i used is covered the enclosure with a cotton t-shirt put the glass on, let dry, sanded, covered with bondo body filler, sanded and primed..... results nice smooth enclosure with tons of tiny pin holes????? :angry: )


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

sounds like u need a better understanding of using fillers and primers before taking on such a project. You need to get you a good spot or glazing putty and put a full coat or 2 over the entire structure until the pin holes are taken care of. Then put several thick coats of a good urethane primer over it.


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## nvrhapy (Jul 28, 2002)

yea this is like my first project its actually just for practice so i can get the hang of it before i do a real project........so i glass it, use a body filler, and then a glazing putty, and then a urethene primer? correct me if i'm wrong, also what type of glazing putty do you use? does it have a hardener mixed with it? thanks for the help


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

u should get some that takes a hardener, get some evercoat. and i always put a coat of fiberglass filler after the resin, then bondo, etc.


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## lowriderlife (Sep 19, 2002)

sounds to me like you are mixing the filler incorrectly-----and probably using a cheap brand-----what happens as you mix the filler is sometimes you get air trapped inside the filler and that is what creates the pinholes.....make sure that you do not use too much hardener so you can work the filler and get all the air out and still have time to spread it and work it------you also might try "marglass" as the first coat----this is a fiberglass re-inforced filler that spreads like regular filler but has the little hairs to help strengthen the bond---------best info is to always use good filler------------------rage gold is the best that i have found to far and as for spot putty------------always use a two part putty like ever-coat don't use that red tube shit--------it shrinks and falls out---------------good luck bro

richee


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

also the weather could affect the filler


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## nvrhapy (Jul 28, 2002)

yea i was using that red filler bullshit and yup it fell out  i don't know if you guys are familiar with NAPA auto parts, but thats where i work at so i usually get my supplies from there since i get a discount. on this project though i used bondo as my filler and then a bondo brand glazing putty that does not require a hardener. is bondo consitered a cheap brand? my guess would be yes?


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

> _Originally posted by nvrhapy_@Dec 22 2004, 08:03 PM
> *yea i was using that red filler bullshit and yup it fell out  i don't know if you guys are familiar with NAPA auto parts, but thats where i work at so i usually get my supplies from there since i get a discount. on this project though i used bondo as my filler and then a bondo brand glazing putty that does not require a hardener. is bondo consitered a cheap brand? my guess would be yes?
> [snapback]2533615[/snapback]​*


yea they are pretty much bottom of the line. Like we said ever-coat makes good products.


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

heres the box in my trunk, my first fiberglass one.


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## b_boy02000 (Aug 18, 2002)

here is myne, took about 2 months off and on

the process i used was the fleece mold-covered in resin, then fiberglass mat, then bondo, then bondo fiberglass mix. and a crap load of sanding. most of the times it was just gettin pin holes out. the bondo is good for covering pinholes. just make sure you have a good clean spreader, and take your time.

but here is my first attempt. i re did the LV so its a lil cleaner lookin. the pix sucks, but the surface of the box is nice and glossy  




























nice box Big Doe! :cheesy:


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## enough_talkin (Aug 25, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Big Doe_@Dec 23 2004, 11:04 PM
> *heres the box in my trunk, my first fiberglass one.
> [snapback]2537702[/snapback]​*


whats under that false floor??....


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## toolman (Aug 3, 2003)

A great product to use instead of primer is Slick Sand its a buildable primer that cover up alot of you flaws....its great for what your doing. You have keep applying Slick Sand coat after coat then hit with some 180grit sandpaper and you done...!


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## toolman (Aug 3, 2003)

A product called Metal Glaze will take care of the pinhole problem....its like bondo but much easier to spead......


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

> _Originally posted by enough_talkin_@Dec 24 2004, 11:00 AM
> *whats under that false floor??....
> [snapback]2539069[/snapback]​*


solenoids and pump wiring...


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## jumper (Jan 21, 2002)

get some lightweight body filler it says right on the can "virtually no pin holes"


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## kustomscaraudio (Jan 10, 2005)

ditto on the slick sand. it's good stuff. rage filler is great as well. it's what i used when building this.









when you are mixing your filler, don't stir it together, but take your mixing blade and "fold" the filler and hardener. this helps to eliminate trapped air, which causes pinholes. also, try using "duraglass" and glass matting when building speaker enclosures. if you only resin some lightweight material, then apply bondo to it, the pressures from the woofers pounding, may crack and split your paint from vibration.


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## woodpaneling (Nov 16, 2003)

Thats a badass interior... what kind of vehicle is that in? Got anymore pics?


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## FunkytownRoller (Apr 9, 2002)

damn that interior is fuckin crazy, ive never seen anything like that.....definately creative


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## kustomscaraudio (Jan 10, 2005)

the interior is in an 89 chevy regular cab. i'll post some more pics tomorrow, i'm on my way out right now.
thanks for the props!


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## 1ofaknd (May 31, 2003)

pinholes aren't a problem man....here's what you do.

after you bondo and sand...you'll have pinholes, especially around the speaker rings. these aren't a problem. 

Using a high build polyester primer...you need to spray it on slow and thick...runs and sags are fine, that's actually what you WANT to happen.

after you let it sit for a couple hours(no more then 24, or it will be too hard) then you can sand it with the d/a, the stuff sands like chalk on concrete, so it'll go quickly and it will fill all those little pinholes.


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## lowriderlife (Sep 19, 2002)

that is freakin crazy but bad ass............good job.....:thumbsup:


> _Originally posted by kustomscaraudio_@Jan 10 2005, 09:54 AM
> *ditto on the slick sand. it's good stuff.  rage filler is great as well. it's what i used when building this.
> 
> 
> ...


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