# Step by Step Candy paint jobs



## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Step by Step Candy Paint job...

Ya I know this is way overdue, but I was hesitant on doing it because there are so many ways of doing a candy job............................. that and I honestly don’t think you can learn how to do it just by reading something........it really takes practice practice and practice. You should start with solid based then move up to metalics and pearls before candy. Trust me, if you can't lay down a uniform metalic job, you will not be able to do a candy job........not yet any way so practice.  

Here it goes..........

Since you should already know how to do all the prep work, I’ll skip all that and start at the point were the car should be ready for paint.

The first thing to do is choose your base color and candy color. You can go with traditional silver or gold base, but the truth is that you can use any color base you want. Candy jobs are all about being creative customs, and the base color is the first step in getting creative. 

TIP - if you are going with a silver base, just use HOK’s silver sealer and skip the base, it’s a very nice and sparkly silver metallic, but best off all you’ll save time and money.

Once you have your base and candy colors picked, spray a test panel. Make sure you have full coverage with the base, and use even passes on the candy. Keep on applying coats until you reach the desired tone, remember the more coats of candy you put on the darker the color will be. Keep in mind the number of coats that was needed to get you're desired tone, this will give you an idea of how many coats of candy you will be putting on the outside of the care, but doesn’t mean it is an exact number. You're test panel will be an important guide in keeping your color both inside and outside uniform.

When doing a candy job it is always best to remove anything that will not be painted, as well as the doors, hood and trunk lid in order to do the jams. (you don‘t have to, but it‘s better if you do)

If you didn’t gut your interior, make sure it is well masked off, the same with the engine bay. 

You can save time if you hang, or rest the doors, hood and trunk lid were you can spray the under sides as you do the jams.

Again all your prep work should be done by now, so start by applying your sealer and base color 

Once you have applied your base, mix in 4 oz of candy concentrate to 1 quart of pre-mixed ready to spray candy. This will cut the number of coats needed for full coverage in half. Though it will reduce the depth of the final appearance, it’s important because less coats means less orange peel. So innless you plan on cutting and buffing your inner jams (some pro-show cars are done that way) make sure you don’t skip this step.

Now that you have the candy mixed for the jams......when spraying try to make straight even passes, I know there are lots of curves, cracks and grooves but do your best. Use your test panel to determine when you have reached your desired tone. Once that is achieved, spray 2 wet coats of clear and you're done with the trunk, hood, and door jams. If you had space in you're shop you may have been able to do the underside of the trunk, and hood, as well as the inside of the doors, if not, just do these the next day while your jams are curing.

Wait about 2 to 3 days later in order for the jams and doors to cure before reinstalling them. Make sure everything lines up properly.

wet sand any over spray that got on the body from doing the jams, and clean.

run masking tape along the edge of the inner jams to keep paint from misting into the cracks. 3M’s soft foam masking tape works best for this......Do the same with the trunk and hood.

Prep and clean the outside for paint.

Apply your sealer, and base.

Now you’re ready for the candy.

For you're fist coat of candy you are going to dilute it 25% by adding urethane clear to the candy (if using premix candy) So your first coat will be a 3 parts candy to 1 part clear mix. You may delute as much as 50% on your first coat to help you from starting out with blotches.

Adjust you're gun to your preference. Keep in mind that you will be shooting from around 8” away from the surface, with at least an 8” fan pattern. Here is were having a pro gun really comes in handy.

I find it easer to stay in straight even vertical lines if I start spraying from the bottom and work my way up. DO NOT FOLLOW THE CAR’S BODYLINES. Make up your own “imaginary” lines to follow that are leveled and straight. Keep an even pace when spraying, and move faster then you would on a normal bb/cc job.... Don’t jog or run across, it will be just a quick walk. This will give you more uniform light/medium coats. Always keep your gun steady, leveled, and even. Each pass will be overlapped by the next by 75%, and yes you will be walking the entire length of the car.

Once you have one side done, you may do the same to the other side, or move up to the roof, trunk and hood.
When doing the roof, trunk, and hood, start with the roof. You may need a long step stool that lets you spray from the rear to the front with out stopping. You could easily make one out of wood planks. Just like on the sides, keep your passes even and straight using the same speed too. Stop right *BEFORE* you get to the very middle. Do the same with the trunk and hood. Then switch sides. This time you will stop right *AT* the middle though. 

That middle line is notorious for tiger striping or should I say stripe......many tend to get a darker stripe right down the middle because they move right up to it from one end, and do the same from the other giving it double the coats as the rest of the car. This is something that definitely needs to be avoided and kept an eye on as you continue with the rest of the coats. Moving right up to it from one side, but stoping right befor it from the other usualy provents this problem.

Now that the first coat is done, you will do the exact same thing with the up coming coats, only that the candy mix with be at normal strength with no clear added to dilute it. Keep your test panel handy and check it after each coat. You will know you have enough coats, when your car and test panel match in color. And since you used the same test panel to color match the jams, then your jams and outside should match as well. 5 to 6 coats is average for a candy job, but don’t be surprise to go up to 10

After you're last coat of candy, apply 3 coats of UV protective topcoat clear. You could use normal clear, but the UV protection will help your color last longer.

Wait a couple of days before coming back to block sand it with 600 and giving it “a flow coat” 1 or 2 more wet coats of clear...This will cut down on the orange peel dramatically and make it easer to cut and buff. 

Well there you have it, I know I skipped allot of general details, but those are common sense things that you should already know about if you're planning on tackling a candy job. One more thing I will touch base on is the mixing of your own candy.

In the above step by step I was mostly referring to the use of premix urethane candy, but you can mix you're own candy using candy concentrates or toners mixed in urethane topcoat clear or intercoat clear........

If you do mix your candy using intercoat clear, I suggest PPG’s DCU500(?) blending clear over HOK’s intercoat clear, mainly because PPG’s doesn’t have a build restriction were HOK’s sagest not to build there’s past 4 coats.

Mixing your own candy using intercoat clear does make the whole job less expensive and easer to spray, since it’s less likely of you having a run with intercoat clear -vs- urethane topcoat clear, You’ll get less orange peel too. Just make sure you mix it in the right amounts, People tend to over mix there candy and get full coverage in less coats, witch cuts down on your depth, and that defeats the purpose of using candy in the first place. If using candy concentrates it’s usually 4 oz per 1 qrt of clear, about half that if using toners. But experiment with test panels to get your preferred mix. 

For those of you who already have experience with candy jobs, feel free to add your comments or suggestions (I know there will be lots)

And for those of you who are planning on there first candy job......Good luck and don’t get discouraged, and once you have it down start adding flakes, patterns pearls, gold leaf, silver leaf, dollar bills, bugs........under, over or sandwiched in-between the candy.......YOUR IMAGINATION IS THE LIMIT!! :thumbsup:


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

ttt


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## A TODA MADRE (Apr 9, 2004)

uffin:


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

nice tips homie. i havent tried any candy yet..but want to.
one question is, you prefer clear instead of interclear?also are you spraying the clear as you would with hardner and all, just with some candy concentrate added to it?.also if i wanted flakes, i would spray the flake down first, then candy over them, right?to get like a bass boat effect? also what is the reasone to reduce the first coat? is it just to get more coats and depth like you mentioned?
im thinking of trying iot on the wifes civic this summer maybe. i seen some candy concentrates at the paint shop the other week :biggrin:


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## Anthony (Dec 31, 2003)

Someone should make all your "how to" topics sticky


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Xx_de_xX_@Jun 8 2005, 05:09 PM
> *Someone should make all your "how to" topics sticky
> [snapback]3245444[/snapback]​*



Damn De_x I havn't seen you in a while, whatz you been up to?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by pink63impala_@Jun 8 2005, 04:58 PM
> *nice tips homie. i havent tried any candy yet..but want to.
> one question is, you prefer clear instead of interclear?also are you spraying the clear as you would with hardner and all, just with some candy concentrate added to it?.also if i wanted flakes, i would spray the flake down first, then candy over them, right?to get like a bass boat effect? also what is the reasone to reduce the first coat? is it just to get more coats and depth like you mentioned?
> im thinking of trying iot on the wifes civic this summer maybe. i seen some candy concentrates at the paint shop the other week :biggrin:
> [snapback]3245403[/snapback]​*



Good questions..

Actualy up until recently I prefered the premixed urathane candy. It does need to be catalised and it does go on just like clear.

I don't like mixing candy concentrated in normal clear, but I do like mixing it in intercoat clear. It's easer to apply, less expensive, and you get less orange peel too.

The only reason to "delute" the first coat, is that it makes it easer to lay down with out starting out with blotches.

When adding flakes, you can add them befor the candy, in the candy or over the candy. The choice is yours. I prefer adding flakes in the first and 2nd coat of candy.

Yes you should try it on the wifes car and let us know how it goes.........let me guess it'll be a candy PINK civic? :biggrin:


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Comp coughed up to many posts :uh:


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

---


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## Anthony (Dec 31, 2003)

Not much man.. haven't had the internet in a while. How are things going with you? Looks like you've been busy!


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## wasup (Apr 3, 2004)

Wet coat? Could someone explain it to me? I don't really understand?


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## Anthony (Dec 31, 2003)

A wet coat is just that.. it looks wet when you apply it. It's not a dry coat, a dust coat, a tack coat- it's a FULL coat.


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## CLOWNINWAYZ (Nov 11, 2003)

:thumbsup:


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

> _Originally posted by wasup_@Jun 8 2005, 08:51 PM
> *Wet coat? Could someone explain it to me? I don't really understand?
> [snapback]3245981[/snapback]​*


SO SHOUL YA START OUT WITH A WET COAT, OR DUST THE FIRST ONE ON ?


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Jun 8 2005, 08:19 PM
> *Good questions..
> 
> Actualy up until recently I prefered the premixed urathane candy.  It does need to be catalised and it does go on just like clear.
> ...


NA NO PINK CIVIC. I ACTUALLY WANTED TO DO CANDY PINKISH ON THE TREY AT FIRST, BUT TIME ANY MONEY CAME UP SHORT WHEN THE WIFE GOT PREGNANT.NOT SURE WHAT COLOR YET ON HER CIVIC, BEING I DRIVE IT TO WORK DAILY,JUST WANT TO PLAY AROUND WITH SOME COLORS ON IT


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## Anthony (Dec 31, 2003)

Personally, I always start out with a tack coat, instead of a full wet coat. Some might do it differently. There's a million ways to skin a cat- just gotta find out what suits you the best, get a system going, and stick to it.


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

great topic

my input, is to completly mask off door and trunk jams,,,cause ANY overspray in there gives you dark edges

and i suggest starting at the bottom on one side of the car, and going up over and down the other side,,start on the oppisite side for the next coat


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Good point........the 3m foam tape does a great job of sealing agenst overspray in the jams, but it never hurts to fully mask off the jams both on the car side and door side.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Xx_de_xX_@Jun 9 2005, 08:06 AM
> *Personally, I always start out with a tack coat, instead of a full wet coat.  Some might do it differently.  There's a million ways to skin a cat- just gotta find out what suits you the best, get a system going, and stick to it.
> [snapback]3248147[/snapback]​*


Exactly, it's all a matter of prefrence.

Just remember that not all paint steps are to be wet coated.......

Metalics, pearls, flakes, and candies should be medium to light coats

Topcoat clears, primers, and solid color single stages should end with wet coats.


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## shyboo (Jan 19, 2004)

Okay So After Reading All That And Learning A Couple Stuff..

Besides Practice And Time With Patience, Would U Think Going To A College/University For Auto AirBrushing May Help?

I Wanna Be An AirBrush Artist And I Know It's Not Gonna Be Easy For Me. I Wanna Do Full Body Painting But Also Some Firme Arte. Like Images U See On LowLowz.. Ladiez, Graphicz, Roses, U Know, Stuff Like That. I Already Got Skillz, Imaginationz, And Creationz On Paper And Wood.. But Now I Wanna Move Up OnTo Auto'z.. I've Experience With AirBrushing But I Know It's Not The Same As AirBrushing An Auto Professionally Or Skillfully As To What I've Done..

Question Iz.. Would It Be Worth My Time Going To College/University For This Kind Of Course In AirBrushing?

My Brother Suggested One In Houston, The Univeristy Of Techinical Institute And He Told Me That They Teach U EVERYTHING ABOUT AND ONLY AUTO'Z In There.. So I Been Looking Into That..


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## OrangeCounty58 (Apr 23, 2002)

gaining knowledge anyway you can never hurts. most guys i know that do it for a living never went to school. just practiced over and over. helps to know a few other people and create a network to learn certain tricks. videos and books out there. 4 year art degree isnt a bad idea either. get into the DIGITAL realm, something to make money when the cars/motorcycles arent lined up.


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## shyboo (Jan 19, 2004)

Digital Realm U Say? Can U Explain That? I'mma Post A Pic Of Two Cars My Dad Says I Can Practice AirBrushing On Over Here Where I Live.. 

Actually, Let Me Go Take The Pics Right Now :biggrin:


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## shyboo (Jan 19, 2004)

Okay Here Da Link To The Nova And White Ford Pick Up My Dad Said I Can Practice On. He Even Wants Me To Do His 18 Wheeler Along With The Trailer.

--------

:biggrin:

But I Think It's Gonna Take Me FOREVER 
That's Where My Patience Comes In..


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Air brushing is a whole defrent skill all on it's own............the best place to go and learn that is at an art school.

Best way to start is picking up a dual action airbrush, some latyx paint and start practicing on paper.

also pick up some books, videos and magazines.......There is a good magazine named "airbrush"

But the main thing is just to get started, get used to the airbrush........and practice practice


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## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

good topic


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## Orgasm Donor (Jul 8, 2005)

Aight Thankz Estillo


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## bigjaydogg (Sep 11, 2003)

man i tried a kandy concentrate onmy whip and all hell broke loose....i fucked it up bad but it didnt discourage me ill try it again


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

What exactly did you do bigjay?
and were did things go wrong?


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## DOUBLE TROUBLE (Aug 10, 2004)

..........


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## 91CADDY (Jul 17, 2005)

Mi Estilo...I know NOTHING at all about prep work and painting...but ready all the information u put out really helps me understand more because i wanna get into this whole lowrider thing...I have a 91 cadillac right now and bought it all tricked out but now i wanna get rid of it and get a Cutlass and still deciding on what color im gonna get it painted. Nice tips :thumbsup:


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## ricecrispy210 (May 1, 2005)




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## 925eastbayrider (Jan 8, 2005)

good thread!!


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## Laid Magazine (Jul 19, 2005)

Your advise is cool bro! And your right, there are many ways of spraying a candy. I do it a little different. I spray the outside of the car first then I go to the jams right away while the outside is still wet. Then when it's dry you simply color sand the overspray off of the outside and your final result is a candy paint job with no tape lines. That's one of the first things paint judges look for. I do recommend painting the inside of the fenders, dash and firewall first.


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## Laid Magazine (Jul 19, 2005)

And as far as cutting and clearing again a few days later, I like to cut the car and let it sit for about a month. Sometimes longer if the customer allows. Candy paint jobs have a lot of material so it is important to get the solvents out. Then sand again and clear. There are many rides out there that were painted a year ago and they smell like they were painted yesterday.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by TraditionalLowriding_@Oct 28 2005, 07:15 AM~4087167
> *Your advise is cool bro! And your right, there are many ways of spraying a candy. I do it a little different. I spray the outside of the car first then I go to the jams right away while the outside is still wet. Then when it's dry you simply color sand the overspray off of the outside and your final result is a candy paint job with no tape lines. That's one of the first things paint judges look for. I do recommend painting the inside of the fenders, dash and firewall first.
> *



I know were you're comming from, and I've tried it but came up with this problem..

After shooting the boddy and letting it dry.....Then shooting the jams, and letting them dry....

I'll start the cutting process....and evrything seems to go great, except after buffing........there will be a "color edge/stripe" at the edge of the jams, were it was cut....

kind of hard to explain, but this is whats going on........I have the base, candy and clear on that edge from when I painted the boddy......then I have the base, candy and clear over all that from painting the jams........but when outside of the edge gets cut clean......there is part of the jam's base exposed giving you a "color line"

I don't know if you ever had that problem, and I may be doing something wrong with this methode........if so, do you have any tips on how to avoid this......cuz yes, If I can pull off a job with no signs of any kind of lines between the boddy and jams.....that would be all good


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## Laid Magazine (Jul 19, 2005)

You spray the jams while the outside is still wet. The candy and clear will blend in a lot better to the wet paint and colorsand better if you don't wait for the outside to dry.


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## Laid Magazine (Jul 19, 2005)

Spray the outside with basecoat then follow up with the jams with base then candy the outside and clear. Then go to the jams and spray the candy and clear. The overspray of candy and clear will sink into the top coat of the outside clear. Then when it dries, it will colorsand just fine.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by TraditionalLowriding_@Oct 28 2005, 07:14 PM~4091365
> *Spray the outside with basecoat then follow up with the jams with base then candy the outside and clear. Then go to the jams and spray the candy and clear. The overspray of candy and clear will sink into the top coat of the outside clear. Then when it dries, it will colorsand just fine.
> *



That should take care of the problem right there :thumbsup:


I'm going to give it a try on my next candy job ......thanks for the tip


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## Laid Magazine (Jul 19, 2005)

No problem!


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Good luck :thumbsup:


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)




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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

here they are


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

again


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

again


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

last time


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

sorry about taking up so much space im still new to this computer stuff ill post more pics later


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by montemanls_@Nov 26 2005, 10:17 AM~4278609
> *If any wants to see pics e-mail me and maybe you can post them up.
> *



Whooow, homie I think something whent wrong with the pics........email them to me and I'll resize and post them for you..........


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

another


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

and another


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Nov 26 2005, 11:47 AM~4278949
> *Whooow, homie I think something whent wrong with the pics........email them to me and I'll resize and post them for you..........
> *


pm sent


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## LowRider_69 (Jun 3, 2006)

> _Originally posted by montemanls_@Nov 26 2005, 02:08 PM~4279030
> *another
> 
> 
> ...


i like this color dose the blue candie come out like dis or should i just get a base this color?


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## CLOWNINWAYZ (Nov 11, 2003)

ttt


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## Pitbullx (Jul 27, 2005)

resize ur pics mang.....


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## Steve UK (Aug 27, 2007)

Hi there guys,

I have been practicing with HOK UK kandy & its getting better.

My question is: does kandy have a certain full opacity? Im thinking that if you kept spraying it, it would eventually get really dark so therefore it must have a kinda full opacity.

If the first coats blotch does the other coats eventually cover that or not?


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## freaker (Jan 6, 2004)

Once it gets blotchy you are kinda screwed. On small stuff like painting a bike its easy to avoid the blotch. I have never done a car yet. But i over reduce my first coats of candy. And add flake in the first few coats of candy as well. I have only used hok candy. No concentrates. Just regular candy. I might do my daily driver explorer in candy tangerine. Just because i can. I might try out the alsa stuff. I wanna see how it works.


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## 64_EC_STYLE (Feb 21, 2005)

My question is do you let the last coat of candy dry before applying the clear, or clear right after the last coat of candy?


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## BIG WHIT 64 (Nov 30, 2005)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## DuezPaid (Jul 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 64_EC_STYLE_@Dec 21 2007, 12:01 AM~9498366
> *My question is do you let the last coat of candy dry before applying the clear, or clear right after the last coat of candy?
> *


You have to let it sit for like an hour. If you have patterns and clear it right away the candy will bleed into the patterns.


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## 64_EC_STYLE (Feb 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Dec 21 2007, 10:17 AM~9500249
> *You have to let it sit for like an hour. If you have patterns and clear it right away the candy will bleed into the patterns.
> *



thanx, i'm ready to try my first candy job now


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## beemc (May 29, 2005)

if you are using hok uk kandy you have to clear right after the last coat of kandy or it will wrinkle


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## 64_EC_STYLE (Feb 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by beemc_@Dec 21 2007, 01:30 PM~9501467
> *if you are using hok uk kandy you have to clear right after the last coat of kandy or it will wrinkle
> *



THANKYOU FOR SAVING ME ALOT OF HEADACHE, cuz i'm going to use HOK :biggrin:


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## 91bubblecaprice (Jun 2, 2006)

SO HOW MUCH KANDY WILL I NEED 2 PAINT AN 85 CUTLASS, BODY,JAMBS, UNDER HOOD N TRUNK??


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## 91bubblecaprice (Jun 2, 2006)

ANYBODY?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 91bubblecaprice_@Mar 14 2008, 08:10 PM~10171463
> *SO HOW MUCH KANDY WILL I NEED 2 PAINT AN 85 CUTLASS, BODY,JAMBS, UNDER HOOD N TRUNK??
> *



Get yourself 1.5 gallons of candy.... 

A little advice; get some KK to mix into the candy when doing the doorjams and under the hood/trunk.. this could save you time, money, and materiel


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## 91bubblecaprice (Jun 2, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Mar 16 2008, 11:53 PM~10184589
> *Get yourself 1.5 gallons of candy....
> 
> A little advice; get some KK to mix into the candy when doing the doorjams and under the hood/trunk.. this could save you time, money, and materiel
> *


OK THANKS, N HOW WILL THIS SAVE ME TIME, MONEY, N MATERIAL?


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

:biggrin:


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## 91bubblecaprice (Jun 2, 2006)

TTT! NEED A LIL HELP!


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## Arhythmic (Sep 30, 2006)

Wow! Awesome tutorial! I have two quick questions though: 

Can I add some kandy koncentrate into the mix for the body paint (instead of just jambs)? Because I want a dark purple color without putting 2 gallons of kandy on it :biggrin: Let's say 2oz per quart...

The tech sheet for Urethane Kandies (HOK) suggest using 50% of UK, 25% RU-310 (reducer) and 25% KU-150 (Catalyst). Is it still advisable of diluting it with urethane clear after mixing those 3 ingredients? If the answer is "yes" can I use intercoat clear or should I use the 2K clear?

Thank you veru much!


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## AuggieStyle (Sep 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by shyboo_@Jul 8 2005, 02:26 PM~3382566
> *Okay So After Reading All That And Learning A Couple Stuff..
> 
> Besides Practice And Time With Patience, Would U Think Going To A College/University For Auto AirBrushing May Help?
> ...


shyboo look into the ppg custom paint class offered in houston. it usually happens around this time of year. Do you paint at all? or are you trying to get into it.
also try your paint stores in austin they have info on all the painters that come though the area to give seminars I did the mickey harris and gene winfield not long ago and the ed hubbs all here in texas. Gladwin paint supply is usually the best for that type of stuff.

http://youtube


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## 59Impala (Oct 13, 2004)

T-T-T


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## tRiCk oR tReAt 2 (Aug 7, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 64_EC_STYLE_@Dec 21 2007, 12:01 AM~9498366
> *My question is do you let the last coat of candy dry before applying the clear, or clear right after the last coat of candy?
> *


I wait the regular 15 minutes flash time between every coat. I have never had any problems with bleeding. Only problem I had with bleeding was one really cold night, the kandy was perfect once the whole job was done, but the next morning, the kandy had bled in a couple areas. It was kandy purple kk. I was then told that it happens every now and then with that color.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## 70DELTA88 (Sep 2, 2008)

TTT


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## 69droptop (May 30, 2007)

I never looked forward to having a cavity before......
BUMP for the good shit!!!


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## Dino (Aug 15, 2002)

good thread!


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## bigshod (Feb 11, 2006)




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## hood_starra (Jun 6, 2008)

well im about to start on my first kandy job an i have learned alot of tricks that i can use for my car but i do have 1 question...lets say your not using patterns on your car lets just say its a straight 1 color kandy paint will i have to spray more clear for glossy look or use less??


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## ROBERTO G (Jul 29, 2007)

> _Originally posted by hood_starra_@Jul 6 2009, 12:15 AM~14389498
> *well im about to start on my first kandy job an i have learned alot of tricks that i can use for my car but i do have 1 question...lets say your not using patterns on your car lets just say its a straight 1 color kandy paint will i have to spray more clear for glossy look or use less??
> *


 :0 i wouldnt do a straight kandy paint job on my first try


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## bigshod (Feb 11, 2006)




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## hood_starra (Jun 6, 2008)

> _Originally posted by ROBERTO G_@Jul 6 2009, 01:21 AM~14389570
> *:0  i wouldnt do a straight kandy paint job on my first try
> *


aight fair enough but i wasnt going to start on a car just yet i have plates an stuff i can practice on first to get it rite then once i get that then i will try to tackle a bigger job :biggrin:


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## cracker (Jun 20, 2004)

tell u what homie I went to UTI some years back not much custom training at the school


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## Guest (Oct 18, 2009)

> _Originally posted by hood_starra_@Jul 5 2009, 11:15 PM~14389498
> *well im about to start on my first kandy job an i have learned alot of tricks that i can use for my car but i do have 1 question...lets say your not using patterns on your car lets just say its a straight 1 color kandy paint will i have to spray more clear for glossy look or use less??*


 no offensive but if your asking this question, your not ready to spray candy. pratice makes perfect tho


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## thecandyman (Jun 28, 2006)

> _Originally posted by shyboo_@Jul 8 2005, 12:26 PM~3382566
> *Okay So After Reading All That And Learning A Couple Stuff..
> 
> Besides Practice And Time With Patience, Would U Think Going To A College/University For Auto AirBrushing May Help?
> ...



COME WORK FOR ME I DONT CHARGE TO TEACH AND I DONT PAY TO LEARN :biggrin:


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## green reaper (Jan 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by thecandyman_@Nov 4 2009, 10:15 PM~15565962
> *COME WORK FOR ME I DONT CHARGE TO TEACH AND I DONT PAY TO LEARN :biggrin:
> *


 Hold a spot open for me Fabian.. :biggrin:


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

ttt


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## stiffy (Jul 14, 2009)

i have a question which are the bases rite now from house of kolor that are opaque are they the neon kolors or the shimrin graphic kolors?and wat can i add to to the kolors so they wont be so opaque??cuz a friend of mine wanted to use the shimrin graphic kolor for a little civic and the painter said it would be opaque or juz plain with not that much shine....so wat can be added to give it that extra pizzazz in it any help for my homie??any advice would be great thanks


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## hi_ryder (Jan 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by stiffy_@Mar 8 2011, 07:56 PM~20040364
> *i have a question which are the bases rite now from house of kolor that are opaque are they the neon kolors or the shimrin graphic kolors?and wat can i add to to the kolors so they wont be so opaque??cuz a friend of mine wanted to use the shimrin graphic kolor for a little civic and the painter said it would be opaque or juz plain with not that much shine....so wat can be added to give it that extra pizzazz in it any help for my homie??any advice would be great thanks
> *


for the neon graphic colors: ive heard from jon kosmoski himself, those neon colors are not for daily drivers. if its a show car go for it but beware there not going to last for very long in the sun.


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## hi_ryder (Jan 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by hood_starra_@Jul 6 2009, 03:15 PM~14389498
> *well im about to start on my first kandy job an i have learned alot of tricks that i can use for my car but i do have 1 question...lets say your not using patterns on your car lets just say its a straight 1 color kandy paint will i have to spray more clear for glossy look or use less??
> *


as far as the clear goes its the same as any paint job, what do you wanna achive. if its a multi layered candy job your gonna wanna flow coat the car. put 3 to 4 healthy coats on the car, let it sit for a week then wet block it back and reclear it. and if its your first time candying for god sakes dont do an apple over silver or something. do like an oriental blue with a blue candy over it or somthing like that, red over red ect... you can still get a really nice affect and your train tracking and blotching will be better hidden. no experience and contrasting colors will be a disaster... theres a HOK dvd called "kustom painting made easy" get it watch it and youll have a better understanding of what your getting into...


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## Afterlife (Jun 1, 2011)

About candy, do I have to put primer before putting HOK silver then candy? Also I need to know about how to do silver flake with candy paint?


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## Afterlife (Jun 1, 2011)

Afterlife said:


> About candy, do I have to put primer before putting HOK silver then candy? Also I need to know about how to do silver flake with candy paint?


???


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## scooby doo (Feb 20, 2012)

I have sprayed out HOK oriental blue, apple red, teal, tangerine, and they all look nice very nice but I am having trouble with the uc 35 clear coat. I set my gun to the manufactures recommended setting. The devilbiss finishline gun's book says set an inlet pressure of 23psi which gives 10 psi at the cap. So why is my clearcoat not shining? I even wet sanded the uc 35 and recoated with ufc 35. It came out a little better but not shiny. Do you have to cut and buff HOK clear or what am I doing wrong? Taking all suggestions.


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

scooby doo said:


> I have sprayed out HOK oriental blue, apple red, teal, tangerine, and they all look nice very nice but I am having trouble with the uc 35 clear coat. I set my gun to the manufactures recommended setting. The devilbiss finishline gun's book says set an inlet pressure of 23psi which gives 10 psi at the cap. So why is my clearcoat not shining? I even wet sanded the uc 35 and recoated with ufc 35. It came out a little better but not shiny. Do you have to cut and buff HOK clear or what am I doing wrong? Taking all suggestions.


http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/adjusting your gun.htm


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## ~KANDY N CHROME~ (Oct 25, 2007)




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## 619lowrider (Jan 16, 2009)

ttt great topic


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