# Building my first box...ported



## themerc

Well I've never built a box before...sealed or ported, and I started building this box about a week ago. It's going to house a single kicker cvr12 and I'm powering it with a kicker zx400.1. 









(designed box plan)









(test fit...no glue or screws)









(test fit)









(mistake number 1...NOTE: always predrill the full length of the screw being used)









(bottom face up...mistake number 2, NOTE: bottom right corner...don't let screws collide)









(elmers wood glue and 2" square drive coarse thread screws)









(sealing up interior seams with 100% silicone...not the cleanest job)









(spray paint inside of port...mistake number 3, NOTE: paint doesn't stick to silicone)









(top face up...screw down and glue port walls)









(bottom face up...carpet box)









(attach carpet squares on ends)









(squares attached)









(all carpeted...but haven't cut out port hole in carpet on left side)

I'll try to keep posting as I go. Hopefully people considering to build a ported box will see the little rookie mistakes. All of them were fixable, but also avoidable.


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## hearse

looks like a good job to me :thumbsup:


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## Sporty

i like it!

damn, i remember when i first started building... you may laugh but i built my first enclosure (a 2 chamber sealed, 2.3cubes each chamber i think) with a 6" jabsaw, liquid nails wood glue, and i handscrewed all of my panels lol

let us kno how it sounds


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## hearse

i'm still lost on the port thing on boxes. why have that bend in the port?


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## Sporty

because the port has to be longer then that side of the enclosure


if you need a 50" long port, and the largest dimension on your box is 36", then you need to "bend" the port around the other walls to achieve the 50 inches


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## hearse

ight that makes more sence. just makin sure i got this down. I'm gonna start building my box for my kickers tomarrow probably


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## themerc

hearseballa, what kickers do you have?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 16 2006, 11:15 AM~6770300
> *hearseballa, what kickers do you have?
> *



'05 CVR 15's


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## themerc

How many does he have?


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## Sporty

2


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## themerc

Ah I wish I could afford something like that. My whole stereo got jacked in the school parking lot in broad daylight a couple months ago...cd player, 6x9's, amp, subs...not to mention a shitload of damage to the car. This time around I'm keeping it simple, cheap, and secret. 

got the 400.1 for $175 shipped and the cvr12 for $87 shipped


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## hearse

> _Originally posted by Sporty+Dec 17 2006, 10:07 PM~6776799-->
> 
> 
> 
> '05 CVR 15's
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-Sporty_@Dec 17 2006, 10:26 PM~6776917
> *2
> *


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: damn sporty u on the ball ain't ya. mines not expensive i paid 140 apiece for them new in box. i'm debating on getting rid of them. i really like the looks of those fi 12's. i have to figure out what the hell i'm gonna do in the back of the hearse before i drop money on subs though.


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## themerc

Well yeah, it's the amp that's expensive.


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## hearse

i paid 150 for a used hifonics bx1500d it beats the shit out of them. i have 2 of those amps did have 1 on each sub in a big ass ported box i got from a buddy. shit was ridiculus i miss that box . had to be like 6 or 7 cubes, 2 pvc ports firing to the back of the car along with the subs and 2 on top and had a goofy peice of wood in the box with squares cut into it.


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## superdodge2196

> _Originally posted by hearseballa_@Dec 18 2006, 12:43 AM~6778061
> *i paid 150 for a used hifonics bx1500d it beats the shit out of them. i have 2 of those amps did have 1 on each sub in a big ass ported box i got from a buddy. shit was ridiculus i miss that box . had to be like 6 or 7 cubes, 2 pvc ports firing to the back of the car along with the subs and 2 on top and had a goofy peice of wood in the box with squares cut into it.*


internal bracing so the box doesn't flex.


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## hearse

i heard that and i heard it had another purpose. somethin to do with the sound waves or somethin


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## fleetwood_talisman

nice box bro


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## themerc

Well here is the finished product...unfortunately it looks like I'm going to have to return the amp.

The amp flashes back and forth between green and red (okay and protection mode). I'm not getting any bass. It does this even with the RCA's and subwoofer wires unplugged. Circuit City tested the power and remote wires with their meter and said both were giving a continuous 12 volts without dropping. They also checked the 18" ground wire and said it was good. The ground goes through two pieces of bare metal.


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## Sporty

that sucks balls man, i kno your anxious to get some power to it... it looks really nice in there man, i hope you like it...


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## superdodge2196

thats really nice for your first box! just seems a little big for one 12". .02


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## themerc

Yeah, after having my stereo stolen I just wanted something cheap and reliable that could produce good bass. The sub cost me around $87 shipped and the amp around $175 shipped...in the end I think I spent around $300-$325 (including all materials).


In the future I may add more amps and cvrs...and build a new box of course.


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## kboogie

i feel you on that box homie, i have 4 cvr 15's an im happy with that pound that they give oh an i have to say you should invest in a screw gun cause i know your
hands are sore after that. UNIQUE AUTO SPORTS WITH OUT THE SCREW GUN
OR REMY. nah homie its a nicely designed box well done :thumbsup:


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by kboogie_@Dec 23 2006, 01:41 AM~6807934
> * oh an i have to say you should invest in a screw gun cause i know your
> hands are sore after that. UNIQUE AUTO SPORTS WITH OUT THE SCREW GUN
> OR REMY.*


lol take a closer look at the last picture  

Thanks a lot though.


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## themerc

Well the amp left for Kicker today. It should get there on Jan 2nd. They said they'd either fix it or replace it... I'm hoping for a replacement.

I've been curious, if an audiobahn amp claims 800 rms watts at 2 ohm and 400 rms at 4 ohm, what do you think it really does at 4 ohm?


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## superdodge2196

mabey half that if your lucky.


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## Sporty

i cant wait to hear the verdict on what a 3.4cubed enclosure with 25sqin of port area do with a cvr12 at 400w...


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## themerc

Hey, I was just looking at a picture of my old amp that was stolen. I noticed theres two wires going into the remote terminal of the amp...today I only have the blue one, not the red one. Am I supposed to have the red one?


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## EazyE10286

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 28 2006, 07:53 PM~6848327
> *Hey, I was just looking at a picture of my old amp that was stolen. I noticed theres two wires going into the remote terminal of the amp...today I only have the blue one, not the red one. Am I supposed to have the red one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


The remote wire is too turn on the amp when the radio goes on.Maybe you have a power antenna and its just bridged off the amp versus running a second wire all the way from the h/u.But yeah there should only be one wire coming from the h/u remote wire(blue) to the amp remote terminal.try tracing the second wire to see were it goes.


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## themerc

That's the problem... there isn't one. A lot of the wires got ripped out when the amp was stolen.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 28 2006, 09:04 PM~6848438
> *That's the problem... there isn't one. A lot of the wires got ripped out when the amp was stolen.
> *



as long as you have a rem wire ran from your HU to the amp and the amp's power and ground is connected, it should turn on when the HU turns on... who knows what that red wire was ran too...


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## themerc

Ah, okay. I'm just still wondering if I somehow did something wrong wiring that amp... even though the guy at circuit city said the wiring was fine.


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## themerc

Hey Sporty, so what didn't you like about your box, the 2.6 cubes @ 28 Hz?


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## themerc

delete post


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 29 2006, 03:12 PM~6854870
> *Hey Sporty, so what didn't you like about your box, the 2.6 cubes @ 28 Hz?
> *



yeh, it was like 2.65cubes @ 29hz (something around there)... and i think i had about 28sqin of port area. it didnt get loud, the bass sounded pretty "heavy" (if you get what im sayin), but it didnt get loud at all, just handle the notes pretty good..

i went to 2.25cubes @ ~34hz and it was much louder, and kept some of that "heavy" bass from the bigger enclosure... the sq wasnt bad either.... i think i had about 18sqin of port area

so we'll see how 3cubes does 

i mean, your in a different style vehicle i had mine in so maybe you'll get a different outcome, but ibanender (had his fare share of enclosures for cvr subs) told me to go 2.25 cubes @ ~34 and he nailed it right on the head


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## themerc

Well my amp reached Kicker 2 days ago... still waiting for some sort of reply or something from Kicker. I'm thinking about buying some more MDF and carpet and making my trunk look cleaner with some walls and a false floor... haven't decided whether to put the sub box under the false floor or the spare tire.


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## Sporty

use some 1/2" hard board for beauty panels, no need in spending dough on 3/4" MDF just for beauty panels


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## themerc

Those are pictures of my trunk. I could lay a piece of board all the way from the seatback across the top shelf and across the sub box all the way to the front of the trunk and carpet it... hiding the sub box.

Or, I could put the spare tire on the floor of the trunk, build a false floor resting on the side shelves to hide the spare, carpet it, build a false wall so the top shelf isn't even seen, carpet it, and put the sub box in there.

I plan to have the amp mounted to the seatback. 

Any other ideas?


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## Fine59Bel

id say, put the tire underneath and make a false floor. maybe not put a false back in, it could muffle the sound of the sub(make it quiter) cuz the more open the trunk is to tha inside of the car, the better it will sound. maybe just glue sum carpet on the seat back so it looks a lil better. and maybe put sum beauty panels on the sides to just clean it up a lil bit, but its all up to u. heres a pic of my trunk


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## Sporty

this is what i'd do.. i'll push the enclosure as far back into the trunk as i can... take some 1/2" hard board or something and make it a one piece to hide the whole back side of the trunk... i would make the speaker cutout's on the "beauty panel" the size of the speaker flang so that the sub is "flush" with the bueaty panel...


if you use your trunk alot, i wouldnt go for false floors and such, but if not, then you can make a false floor and flush mount your amp right up against the rear beauty panel into the false floor


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## themerc

Pictures of my trunk...

NOTE: the yellow part of the measuring tape is 14" which is the depth of my sub box


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## themerc

Now that we've got some better views of the trunk, anyone got any good ideas?

Sporty, I'm not so sure I completely understand your idea.


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## EazyE10286

make sure you position the box to were there is the most open space infront of it.alot of people think that turning it around facing the back of the seat will make it louder,it just takes away from the power you could put to it.You want as much space possible infront of them


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## Sporty

kicker needs to hurry up


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jan 7 2007, 11:07 PM~6928633
> *kicker needs to hurry up
> *


AMEN

According to UPS tracking they got my amp on Jan 2nd.

My dad's calling them today while I'm at school to see what the deal is.


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## themerc

Well my amp came today... they fixed it. The note said it was "shorted blown C187" and it said max power 433. They didn't send back anything I sent with it, like the remote bass control, remote bass control wire and mounting hardware, hi-level input wire, allen wrench for the wires, manual... etc.

Okay, so when I try this again...

Subsonic Filter turned ON.
Take out power wire fuse.
Plug in gound.
Plug in power wire.
Plug in remote wire.
Plug in subwoofer wires.
Plug in RCA's.
Put fuse back in.
Gain at 0, bass boost at 0, and x over frequency at 0.
Turn radio on.
Slowly turn up gain and x over frequency.

Does this sound correct?


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 9 2007, 03:42 PM~6943862
> *They didn't send back anything I sent with it, like the remote bass control, remote bass control wire and mounting hardware, hi-level input wire, allen wrench for the wires, manual... etc.
> *


This is why you NEVER send in ANY accessories when you send an amp to be fixed...

I would not stand for that man, you need to demand you get what you are supposed to get!

That process will be fine, just remember the gain only matchs the pre-amp outputs of your h/u...


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## themerc

Yeah I called them up and they said they'd send the stuff back.


"That process will be fine, just remember the gain only matchs the pre-amp outputs of your h/u..."

What do you mean?

and what should I turn up the x over frequency to?


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 9 2007, 03:49 PM~6943921
> *Yeah I called them up and they said they'd send the stuff back.
> "That process will be fine, just remember the gain only matchs the pre-amp outputs of your h/u..."
> 
> What do you mean?
> 
> and what should I turn up the x over frequency to?
> *


60-80Hz depending on the tuning freq. of the box and listening habits...


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## themerc

Well everyone, the final verdict on a kicker zx400.1 pushing 400 watts through a kicker cvr12 at 2.95 cubes after all displacement tuned to 32 Hz... 

SLAMMING!!!! It sounds so good.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 9 2007, 05:20 PM~6944760
> *Well everyone, the final verdict on a kicker zx400.1 pushing 400 watts through a kicker cvr12 at 2.95 cubes after all displacement tuned to 32 Hz...
> 
> SLAMMING!!!! It sounds so good.
> *


That's great man, congrats!


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## themerc

For tuning purposes I had the head unit at volume 30 and bass +6 on a scale of -6 to +6... Then I set the crossover at 80Hz, the gain at almost 1/2, and the bass boost at 0..... I usually listen to music in my car with the volume at 20-25 tops and the bass at 0 on the headunit. Man was it pounding. It OWNED my dual audiobahn 12's in the bandpass box and "800 watt" audiobahn amp. I had a stack of papers 2 feet in front of the port and it blew the papers right out of my trunk. This is AMAZING. Thanks a lot guys.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 9 2007, 05:42 PM~6944964
> *For tuning purposes I had the head unit at volume 30 and bass +6 on a scale of -6 to +6... Then I set the crossover at 80Hz, the gain at almost 1/2, and the bass boost at 0..... I usually listen to music in my car with the volume at 20-25 tops and the bass at 0 on the headunit. Man was it pounding. It OWNED my dual audiobahn 12's in the bandpass box and "800 watt" audiobahn amp. I had a stack of papers 2 feet in front of the port and it blew the papers right out of my trunk. This is AMAZING. Thanks a lot guys.
> *


I wish everyone was as "teachable" as you...


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## Sporty

NICE MAN... CONGRATS!


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## themerc

before









almost done









almost done...again


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## themerc

I decided to build a false floor to hide the spare tire and make the trunk look cleaner. I still need to carpet the false floor and build a trim border on the floor out of MDF strips for the box to fit into snugly so it doesn't slide around.


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## themerc

I finished the false floor tonight and took some pictures. They're not very good and I haven't vacuumed the trunk yet, but I'm sure the trunk will look a lot better during the day.


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## Brahma Brian

Very nice job!


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## themerc

I think I might build a false wall behind the box too... to hide the shelf, amp, and ugly seatback.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 16 2007, 08:52 PM~7006028
> *I think I might build a false wall behind the box too... to hide the shelf, amp, and ugly seatback.
> *


I don't suggest that...

What I would suggest, would be a 1x1 frame to fit there, with grill cloth stretched over it...

The idea is to not block the air movement into the cabin...


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## themerc

Ah good point, do you think I should build an amp rack? Or would that look weird because the box is already built and I'm not using fiberglass...


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 16 2007, 09:01 PM~7006092
> *Ah good point, do you think I should build an amp rack? Or would that look weird because the box is already built and I'm not using fiberglass...
> *


Put the amp behind the "screen", out of sight, out of mind...


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## themerc

Took some better pictures...


















































I ordered some sound deadening, (nothing personal anybody) 75 sq. ft., and it should come in tomorrow. I also got some nuts and bolts to bolt down my 6x9's better... and make it so you'd have to take the whole backseat out then rear deck to take the nuts off to get the 6x9's out.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 25 2007, 06:21 PM~7084791
> *I also got some nuts and bolts to bolt down my 6x9's better... and make it so you'd have to take the whole backseat out then rear deck to take the nuts off to get the 6x9's out.
> *


You would have A LOT more bass in the car if you did away with the 6x9's all together...


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## themerc

How so? In fact I was thinking the coplete opposite...

I was out in my car today in the driveway messing with the head unit. I turned the bass going to the speakers to like -12 and the treble up to +12 and the sub to 0...

Then I turned the bass up slowly on the speakers... the 6x9's increased the bass so much.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 25 2007, 06:30 PM~7084863
> *How so? In fact I was thinking the coplete opposite...
> 
> I was out in my car today in the driveway messing with the head unit. I turned the bass going to the speakers to like -12 and the treble up to +12 and the sub to 0...
> 
> Then I turned the bass up slowly on the speakers... the 6x9's increased the bass so much.
> *


Using 6x9's to increase the bass is a mistake to begin with, you have a sub for that......

If you are lacking midbass, I suggest adding something up front to cure that...

The reason I said what I said, is because when you remove the 6x9's you ADD direct porting from the trunk to the cabin...

It' will make a HUGE difference in the output of that ported sub in the cabin...


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## themerc

Actually, I think ford may have gotten something right for once... (besides totally screwing me over on the underside 6x9 mounting)


























It turns out the grand marquis comes stock with a "port." You just have to cut the perferated foam covering it.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 25 2007, 06:46 PM~7085021
> *Actually, I think ford may have gotten something right for once... (besides totally screwing me over on the underside 6x9 mounting)
> It turns out the grand marquis comes stock with a "port." You just have to cut the perferated foam covering it.
> *


That's actually the opening for the stock subwoofer option you are looking at...

I personally still wouldn't run rear fill 6x9's at all...


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## themerc

Then where would you put the 6x9's? I'm not just going to run two 5x7's lol.


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 25 2007, 07:16 PM~7085298
> *Then where would you put the 6x9's? I'm not just going to run two 5x7's lol.
> *


Midbass drivers in the front doors, component set in kick panels...

Sub in trunk, leaving the three holes in the deck...


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## themerc

So you're saying I should make kick panels for the 5x7's, put the 6x9's in the front doors, and leave the holes in the rear deck open...


What about the people in the backseat?


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 25 2007, 07:33 PM~7085488
> *So you're saying I should make kick panels for the 5x7's, put the 6x9's in the front doors, and leave the holes in the rear deck open...
> What about the people in the backseat?
> *


Backseat people can kiss my ass, you may be different than me though...  

Speakers back there or not, the sound stage is completely off anyway, so what's the point...

When I'm driving my vehicle, my ears point forward, not backward...  

If your sub bass is on point, you're not gonna hear a pair of 6x9's in the rear deck anyway...

I'd do a 5.25" component set in the kicks and maybe 6.5 - 7" midbass drivers in the doors...

Ditch the rear speakers completely, leave the holes open in the deck, and get away from 5x7's in the front...


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## themerc

Well unless the speakers are really cheap, I'm not sure I'm going to change them...

I want to keep everything hidden as well. Right now, unless I open my trunk, my car has a completely stock stereo look.


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## themerc

These are my 5x7's and 6x9's, hit me straight...

MTX audio thunder dome-axials 6802
SPECS:
6x8/5x7" coaxial
mounting depth: 2-7/16"
20mm soft dome tweeter
power handling: 60 watts rms
sensitivity (2.8v/1m): 92db
frequency response: 45hz- 20khz
impedence: 4 ohm

MTX audio thunder dome-axials 6902
SPECS:
6x9" coaxial
mounting depth: 3"
25mm soft dome tweeter
power handling: 100 watts rms
sensitivity (2.8v/1m): 92db
frequency response: 42hz- 20khz
impedence: 4 ohm

I bought these when I was 15 and didn't know anything about car audio.


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## themerc

Well I'd like to take this time to thank Ford for creating the most uneven surfaced trunk ever.


































Ready for edead!


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## Sporty

thats gonna be a learning process all on its own


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## themerc

I took a couple pictures of the inside of my car today...


































I took the 6x9's out today. I played the front speakers with the fader all front... My cd player is 18x4 rms... if the fader is all to the front does that mean each front speaker is getting 36 watts? Is this bad?

I'm going to deaden the whole trunk and trunk lid... but should I deaden the metal area the amp is mounted to, behind the seats? Should I deaden the rear deck? Should I deaden both sides of the rear deck and seatback metal?


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## themerc

Okay check it...

I think i'm either just going to run my two 5x7's in the front, sub, and rear deck open or...

Run my two 5x7's up front, sub, rear deck open, and build a small MDF enclosure for my two 6x9's and put it on top of the center rear deck away from the openings.

What do you think?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jan 31 2007, 06:28 PM~7140987
> *Okay check it...
> 
> I think i'm either just going to run my two 5x7's in the front, sub, and rear deck open or...
> 
> Run my two 5x7's up front, sub, rear deck open, and build a small MDF enclosure for my two 6x9's and put it on top of the center rear deck away from the openings.
> 
> What do you think?
> *


i think a 6.5" componant set in some kick panels would be teh sex!


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## themerc

lol well I'm trying to keep this hidden and cost-effective... if I did the 6x9's in the MDF boxes sitting on the rear deck I'd cover them with like a sweatshirt or something.


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## themerc

If I were to build an MDF enclosure for the two 6x9's, how big should it be? One or two chambers? Would 3/4" MDF be okay?

Should I deaden the cabin side of the rear deck? Trunk side? Should I deaden the cabin side of the backseat metal? Trunk side?


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## themerc

Is 70 degrees warm enough to install some edead?


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 1 2007, 05:04 PM~7149572
> *If I were to build an MDF enclosure for the two 6x9's, how big should it be? One or two chambers? Would 3/4" MDF be okay?
> 
> Should I deaden the cabin side of the rear deck? Trunk side? Should I deaden the cabin side of the backseat metal? Trunk side?
> *



well, where are your noisy areas? if all these produce rattle, then yeh, deaden them... if not, then dont worry about it... hit your problem areas first, if you have more left over, get your doors , if you have more left over, then go from there...


as for the 6x9's, you can use the .75" if you want, its not needed but if you have it, why not... as far as how big the enclosure should be you can base it off of these links

http://www.millionbuy.com/hbx69sq.html
http://www.millionbuy.com/hbx69panda.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1hcSI00HBIa/c...asp?i=044QL69WD


btw, if its too cold, you can use a heat gun, about the same thing as a hair dryer but ment for industrial usage


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## themerc

Well I took some pictures of my deadening progress. I'm not finished as you can see, and it's not the cleanest job.


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## H town_caddyking

it looks better than mine! i put two layers and got more coverage but it looks kinda shitty... now i got a heat gun i'll use when i get aroun to the doors. i'm getting a custom trunk cover soon so its ok for now. you will be glad you did it will sound way cleaner with out all the rattles. what about the trunk lid??


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## themerc

Yeah I gotta finish the back of the shelf near the amp and back of fenders, the sides, the lid, and the rear deck... and whatever's left over will go in the front doors.

I got a new battery today, my battery died for the first time yesterday, turns out it was 5 years old. 

Old Exide Premium battery:

Size: 65
CA: 780
CCA: 650
RC: 130

New Duralast Gold battery...

Size: 65
CA: 1000
CCA: 875
RC: 165

$87 after tax


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## Sporty

IT LOOKS GOOD TO ME!

good choice on battery upgrade


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## themerc

Alright I took some pictures of the rear deck and battery. 

The battery is pretty ghetto rigged... When I took the old battery out I found out one of the two bolts holding the battery clamp down was rusted to the point where you couldn't tell the bolt from the nut, so I had to hacksaw the bolt off, and the clamp was too rusted and bent to reuse.

































































beast^








hooray for bungees^


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## WhitePapi2006

yo man you doing a good job on that grand marquis i wish i had the money to do mine all like that and the time keep up the good work


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## 86' Chevy

keep up the nice work!!


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## themerc

Well I finished deadening the trunk and rear deck, all I have left to deaden is the trunk lid. If there's any left after that I'll deaden the front doors. 

I finally put my car back together. I have a backseat, rear deck, carpet, and false floor in my trunk again. I'm going to deaden the lid, put the box back in, and see how it sounds with just two 5x7's and the sub.


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## themerc

It sounds a lot better with just the two 5x7's... it doesn't sound like bass is distorting the sound from the speakers. The bass seems a lot clearer too. I can't tell if there's less bass or it just seems like there's less bass because there aren't 6x9's in the back anymore. I was considering a 2 channel amp to power the 5x7's... if money allows. My local shop was selling a kicker 06zx150.2 for $129.99 installed... I'd install it myself, but that seems like a decent price. 

It's...

60 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms 
75 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 ohms 
150 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms 
(rms)

and my speakers are 60 rms watts each


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## Brahma Brian

I take it you like the outcome of my suggestion?


----------



## themerc

Indeed lol. Hey quick question...

When I turn my car on, the amp turns on in protective mode, stays in it for 1 second, clicks, then goes to normal. Is this normal?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 23 2007, 12:30 PM~7335197
> *Indeed lol. Hey quick question...
> 
> When I turn my car on, the amp turns on in protective mode, stays in it for 1 second, clicks, then goes to normal. Is this normal?
> *


I have seen plenty of amps do that before, but I can't say it's "normal"...


----------



## themerc

Is it bad?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Feb 23 2007, 12:38 PM~7335265
> *Is it bad?
> *


If the amp works fine after it's on, don't worry about it homie...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Feb 23 2007, 12:44 PM~7335316
> *If the amp works fine after it's on, don't worry about it homie...
> *



agreed.


my power acoustiks amplifiers use to do that... 

i think it does that 1 sec pause (and just registers as a protect) to stop that "popping" sound... i dont know if you've ever been in a car where everytime the radio is cut on or off, the speakers/sub make a popping noise..

but it aint nothing, some amps are made to do it, some amps arent


----------



## themerc

Yeah I know the popping sound you're talking about... kind of like when you plug a guitar into an amplifier.

So do you think it would be worth it to get the kicker 06ZX150.2 to power the 5x7's?


----------



## H town_caddyking

i don't know if this has any thing to do with it but when roy from audio pros did my install he put a relay on my sub amp so everything would come on first then about 5 seconds later the sub amp would come on???? it works great no problems i got 2 lanzar 600w 4ch for highs and 1 planet audio 2250d for sub and memphis line driver.


----------



## themerc

Scratch that, the Kicker 06ZX150.2 is $129.99 *un*installed. I figure I'd get a distribution block for my 4 guage wire and have it split in the trunk to the 2 amps. Does this sound okay? Will I be getting enough power? 

My alternator is 135 amps and my battery is...

size: 65
CA: 1000
CCA: 875
RC: 165

...if that makes any difference.



I've never taken the head unit out before, is this job going to be difficult?


----------



## Sporty

yeh, those two kicker amps dont draw over 150amperes of current together so if you have a 150amp inline fuse up by the batteryyou can run a 1-4awg in, 2-4awg out fused distro block ((2)70a tube fuse) to split the hot into two runs

with the HU, it might be difficult, and then it might not... im not sure with your vehicle (i've never done an install for this car),,, if you take a picture of your deck in the dash, i could say more


----------



## themerc

I'm not sure about my fuse by the battery, I'll check it.


----------



## themerc

That's my fuse. It's 60 amps.


----------



## themerc

Well I'm tempted to build a new box. I need to build something. Any ideas?


----------



## Sporty

2.25cubes @ 34hz and see which one is louder, my box plan or the one you built already...


----------



## themerc

Well I'm thinking about doing a cleaner install. I was thinking about making a box to fit on the back shelf, then attaching a beauty board to the front to make a nice clean wall with the sub and port coming through.





































Because the shelf doesn't have enough room and the wall has a strange curve to it, I'm thinking I'll need to have it hanging over the edge a little bit. Something along the lines of this...


----------



## themerc

Someone else has given me an idea for a second option. I could build a downfiring ported box to fit on that shelf and build a beauty board wall to hide the box and the amp. Opening the trunk you wouldn't see anything.


----------



## Brahma Brian

Firing into the trunk is what makes your sub loud, if you down fire and block the rear of the trunk off your bass will be non-existent...

You have to provide room for the low frequency waves to develop and you have to have a surface to load off off, not one or the other...


----------



## themerc

So you think I should have the sub firing through the beauty panel into the open area of the trunk...

Will my amp get too hot?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 16 2007, 11:23 AM~7490298
> *So you think I should have the sub firing through the beauty panel into the open area of the trunk...
> 
> Will my amp get too hot?
> *


Yes, but make sure the beauty board is not going to prevent the sound from getting in the cabin via the by-nine holes you have open, you don't want to block all of the sound from entering the cabin area...

The amp will get hot and be quite difficult to get to as well, it's unknown if this well be a "problem" until you try it...


----------



## themerc

So if the beauty board creates a complete wall in between the face of the sub and the box (and 6x9 holes) there won't be as much bass in the cabin?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 16 2007, 11:41 AM~7490404
> *So if the beauty board creates a complete wall in between the face of the sub and the box (and 6x9 holes) there won't be as much bass in the cabin?
> *


Bingo...


----------



## themerc

Alright, I'm open for ideas. Ideas anyone? New box style?

Here's what I'm working with right now.


----------



## Sporty

FI-BER-GLASS
FI-BER-GLASS


get crunk and try something new uffin:


----------



## Brahma Brian

Other than doing something just to do it, you have the most effective setup you can have as it is...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 18 2007, 11:28 AM~7500509
> *Other than doing something just to do it, you have the most effective setup you can have as it is...
> *



true...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 18 2007, 12:28 PM~7500509
> *Other than doing something just to do it, you have the most effective setup you can have as it is...
> *


I know... damn it lol...


----------



## Brahma Brian

You could always do a beauty frame with grill cloth stretched on it for a clean solid look that won't block sound...


----------



## Sporty

what do you wanna do, get louder, sound better?


think its time to upgrade?


you know an fi X12 will be a really nice upgrade :biggrin:

i had to throw in it..


where are you in florida, i just did a g-35 install with a single X12 inverted and vented at 1.53cubes @ 34hz, i know you said you wanted to hear the sub itself, if your close it can happen.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Mar 18 2007, 12:44 PM~7500571
> *what do you wanna do, get louder, sound better?
> think its time to upgrade?
> you know an fi X12 will be a really nice upgrade :biggrin:
> 
> i had to throw in it..
> where are you in florida, i just did a g-35 install with a single X12 inverted and vented at 1.53cubes @ 34hz, i know you said you wanted to hear the sub itself, if your close it can happen.
> *


Probably both... I need to get a job at a freakin stereo shop. I'm saving up money for rims but stereo equiptment is so much more fun to work with. Does Fi even sells the x12's anymore?

I'm in Jacksonville by the way.


----------



## Sporty

no, they stopped on the X-series becuase they werent moving them (which is nuts to me, very nice sub for low)...

i did the rim thing and kinda moved on from it...around here (fort lauderdale, florida), big rims are very common until its not really anything... its like saying, "i have a black t-shirt"... plus once they're on the car, only thing you can do is clean them, with a system, it can go on and on with what you can do with it.


----------



## themerc

Exactly. It seems like a waste of money to spend $1,200 on 20" rims and tires that are only going to make the ride crappy. But I do admit my car looks a little weird sitting on the stock rims. I need a cheap solution (and it can't be 13's or 14's because I'd have to grind the calipers).










Although I love working with amps and subs now, I think I need to do something about my speakers. Right now I'm running 2 speakers... 2 MTX 5x7's pushing 18rms watts each from the head unit. I can hear a little distortion. I have the head unit set with the bass all the way down and the treble all the way up to the speakers.


----------



## Brahma Brian

Put some Cobra wheels on it or something...


----------



## themerc

Those are 17's... I'm rolling on 16's.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 18 2007, 01:00 PM~7500836
> *Those are 17's... I'm rolling on 16's.
> *


You can get them in 18 and 20 inch versions as well, but then they aren't "cheap"...


----------



## themerc

Yeah, I'm thinking I should either get 20" 150 spokes for $1,200 with tires on the car, or get some better looking 16's for a few hundred bucks and use my new toyo tires.


----------



## shortydoowop138

PUT SOME HARLEY RIMS AND LOW PROS ON IT


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by shortydoowop138_@Mar 18 2007, 03:38 PM~7501442
> *PUT SOME HARLEY RIMS AND LOW PROS ON IT
> *


WAY different lug pattern and don't say use adapters... :uh:


----------



## BigLinc

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 18 2007, 12:09 PM~7500656
> *Exactly. It seems like a waste of money to spend $1,200 on 20" rims and tires that are only going to make the ride crappy. But I do admit my car looks a little weird sitting on the stock rims. I need a cheap solution (and it can't be 13's or 14's because I'd have to grind the calipers).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I love working with amps and subs now, I think I need to do something about my speakers. Right now I'm running 2 speakers... 2 MTX 5x7's pushing 18rms watts each from the head unit. I can hear a little distortion. I have the head unit set with the bass all the way down and the treble all the way up to the speakers.
> *


14s wont fit?

and a little grinding doesnt hurt nothing


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by BigLinc_@Mar 18 2007, 05:17 PM~7501590
> *14s wont fit?
> 
> and a little grinding doesnt hurt nothing
> *


Nope. And it hurts my calipers


----------



## themerc

I was thinking...

Has anyone ever built kickpanels on the inside? Like on the left and right sides of the hump in the middle?


----------



## BigLinc

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 18 2007, 06:00 PM~7501781
> *Nope. And it hurts my calipers
> *


not really


----------



## shortydoowop138

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 18 2007, 03:07 PM~7501814
> *I was thinking...
> 
> Has anyone ever built kickpanels on the inside? Like on the left and right sides of the hump in the middle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I've seen it done but it's normally on consoles between bucket seats but you could fab a small box to fill in the area between the hump and the radio/ashtray..


----------



## themerc

You mean like build a center console?


----------



## shortydoowop138

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 18 2007, 03:54 PM~7501978
> *You mean like build a center console?
> *


I'm talking about a console like this.. Then you can put some 6.5's in the sides..

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/uploads/pos...-1110532578.jpg


----------



## themerc

Hmm... maybe I'll just make do with my stock locations lol. Different things I was thinking about doing...

-Get an amp for the 2 speakers I have

-Get new speakers

-Get new speakers and an amp

-Get components

-Get components and an amp


----------



## H town_caddyking

get components and a amp maybe a 4 ch that way you could push the components and the speakers you have now.


----------



## themerc

Okay if I got the kicker 150.2 for the two 5x7's...

How do you wire the speakers to the amp? Will there be a second remote wire running to the 150.2?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2007, 07:35 PM~7509118
> *Okay if I got the kicker 150.2 for the two 5x7's...
> 
> How do you wire the speakers to the amp? Will there be a second remote wire running to the 150.2?
> *


Just jump the remote wire from your sub amp and get power and ground distribution blocks to ground and power it, then run your speaker wires up front and tap in behind the kickpanels to the door 5x7's......


----------



## themerc

What do you mean jump the remote wire from the sub amp?

I was planning on using a 1- 4g in and 2- 4g out distribution block for power...

Each amp shouldn't have its own ground?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2007, 08:01 PM~7509310
> *What do you mean jump the remote wire from the sub amp?
> 
> I was planning on using a 1- 4g in and 2- 4g out distribution block for power...
> 
> Each amp shouldn't have its own ground?
> *



he means to run a wire from the subs REM input to the 4-channel amps rem. (a.k.a. jump the remote wire from the sub amp)


and the reason you dont see too many kick panels done to the center hump is becuase you get better imaging the further the speaker is away from you. thats why the driverside kickpanel focuses on the passenger and the passenger kicks focus on the driver... i wouldnt persue the center kick console idea


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Mar 19 2007, 09:26 PM~7509490
> *he means to run a wire from the subs REM input to the 4-channel amps rem. (a.k.a. jump the remote wire from the sub amp)
> and the reason you dont see too many kick panels done to the center hump is becuase you get better imaging the further the speaker is away from you. thats why the driverside kickpanel focuses on the passenger and the passenger kicks focus on the driver... i wouldnt persue the center kick console idea
> *


Yeah I'm not going to. So the remote wire goes from the head unit to the REM on the 400.1... then run a second wire from the REM on the 400.1 to the REM on the 150.2?

Then run some speaker wire directly from the 150.2 to the speakers?
Is that it?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 19 2007, 08:29 PM~7509513
> *Yeah I'm not going to. So the remote wire goes from the head unit to the REM on the 400.1... then run a second wire from the REM on the 400.1 to the REM on the 150.2?
> 
> Then run some speaker wire directly from the 150.2 to the speakers?
> Is that it?
> *


pretty much.... just add in some power, ground, and rca's from your front preamp outputs and thats pretty much it.


----------



## BigLinc




----------



## themerc

Well today I found out my digital camera can take short videos... so I immediately ran out to my car and started blasting some bass lol. I have no idea if my sub can handle more or not...

video 1

video 2


----------



## fleetwood_talisman

looks like its bangin!


----------



## Brahma Brian

Sporty and I have created a monster, LOL


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 21 2007, 06:53 PM~7523733
> *Sporty and I have created a monster, LOL
> *


Hey I did a little bit too you know lol...

unless you're talking about me and not the sub...


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 21 2007, 05:59 PM~7523758
> *Hey I did a little bit too you know lol...
> 
> unless you're talking about me and not the sub...
> *


I'm talking about you and what you have accomplished with some help from us...


----------



## themerc

Ah I gotcha, and I appreciate the help by the way  


so how do I know when the sub is at it's peak performance?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 21 2007, 06:40 PM~7524045
> *Ah I gotcha, and I appreciate the help by the way
> so how do I know when the sub is at it's peak performance?
> *


Just below clipping... Or right before you smoke it... LMAO


----------



## themerc

lol well how can I tell when it's just below clipping... I think I'll be able to tell when it's smoking.


----------



## themerc

Somebody told me to play a 50 Hz tone and check the voltage at the speaker outputs. They said "for 400 watts at 2 ohms it should be near 28.3 volts AC."

I don't really know what they're talking about. I don't have a voltmeter and I haven't made a cd of test tones yet, so I can't try it yet anyway, but what are they talking about?


----------



## themerc

Alright, I'm really tempted to do something drastic.

I'm considering saying screw the 20's, get some black steel 16's or clean up the stock rims and throw some whitewalls on them for cheap, say under $400 total...

and going all out on stereo equiptment...

subs, mids, highs, amps, wiring, batteries, kick panels, etc.

I've got over $1,000


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 26 2007, 07:03 PM~7556257
> *Alright, I'm really tempted to do something drastic.
> 
> I'm considering saying screw the 20's, get some black steel 16's or clean up the stock rims and throw some whitewalls on them for cheap, say under $400 total...
> 
> and going all out on stereo equiptment...
> 
> subs, mids, highs, amps, wiring, batteries, kick panels, etc.
> 
> I've got over $1,000
> *


1000 is a start on a really nice system but nowhere near enough if you have the thirst for audio bliss.....


----------



## themerc

What do you guys think of the Hifonics BX1205D?
How much power do you think it really puts out?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 11:34 AM~7560916
> *What do you guys think of the Hifonics BX1205D?
> How much power do you think it really puts out?
> *


its shit........


----------



## themerc

So Hifonics isn't a reputable brand anymore?


----------



## themerc

What about the kenwood...

KAC-9102D
KAC-9103D
KAC-9152D


----------



## themerc

Different things I was thinking of doing...

two 400.1 amps (already have one)
two cvr12 subs (already have one)
one 150.2 to power 5x7's (already have 5x7's)


one 400.1 amp (already have) to power one cvr12 sub (already have)
one 800-900 watt kenwood amp to power two cvr12 subs
one 150.2 to power 5x7's (already have 5x7's)


two 400.1 amps (already have one)
two cvr15 subs
one 150.2 to power 5x7's (already have 5x7's)


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 04:29 PM~7563284
> *Different things I was thinking of doing...
> 
> two 400.1 amps (already have one)
> two cvr12 subs (already have one)
> one 150.2 to power 5x7's (already have 5x7's)
> 
> one 400.1 amp (already have) to power one cvr12 sub (already have)
> one 800-900 watt kenwood amp to power two cvr12 subs
> one 150.2 to power 5x7's (already have 5x7's)
> 
> two 400.1 amps (already have one)
> two cvr15 subs
> one 150.2 to power 5x7's (already have 5x7's)
> *


I would get another sub and another amp just like you have, buy a FOUR channel amp, use two channels for the 5x7's and use the other two channels later do a set of components in kickpanels later...

If it was ME, I'd keep the one sub and one amp and buy the four channel and add components and kicks before I added another sub and sub amp...

That said, IF you can find a buyer for the one sub, box and amp, I can steer you towards another single sub setup with a bit more output if you wanna go that route...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 27 2007, 06:28 PM~7563712
> *That said, IF you can find a buyer for the one sub, box and amp, I can steer you towards another single sub setup with a bit more output if you wanna go that route...
> *


What did you have in mind?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 05:32 PM~7563748
> *What did you have in mind?
> *


That's all gonna depend on your budget...

If you wanna get louder, you're going to need some wire, alt and battery upgrades, just remember that...

This is the main reason I suggested the four channel and kicks with a component set first, then go big with the boom later...


----------



## themerc

Well here are the prices...

400.1 is $175 shipped
cvr12 is $90 locally
150.2 is $130 locally
350.4 is $175 shipped

If I did do kick panels and a 4 channel... would you suggest keeping the 5x7's I have now?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 05:40 PM~7563822
> *Well here are the prices...
> 
> 400.1 is $175 shipped
> cvr12 is $90 locally
> 150.2 is $130 locally
> 350.4 is $175 shipped
> 
> If I did do kick panels and a 4 channel... would you suggest keeping the 5x7's I have now?
> *


Sure, I think you told me they were pretty good ones, as long as they can take the power and sound good, keep them...


----------



## themerc

How much would components run me?

What are good brands for components?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 06:16 PM~7564000
> *How much would components run me?
> 
> What are good brands for components?
> *


CDT and only CDT...

http://cdtaudio.com/car_audio.htm


----------



## themerc

Yeah but which model? And I know you like CDT, but there aren't any other good brands out there?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 06:41 PM~7564134
> *Yeah but which model? And I know you like CDT, but there aren't any other good brands out there?
> *


Anything from CDT you'll be happy with, the more you spend the more you will like it...

Their low line products beat many other top line products...


----------



## themerc

Are these the cheapest, the CL-Convertables for $199.00?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 07:05 PM~7564274
> *Are these the cheapest, the CL-Convertables for $199.00?
> *


Yes they are for a 6.5" component set with a crossover and a tweeter, but if you buy pre-made kickpanel enclosures, they will most likely fit a 5.25" driver, you could go with the 5.25" coaxial instead for $99 a set and use the crossover in the amp...


----------



## themerc

Okay what's the difference between speakers (like coaxials) and components?

I think terminology is throwing me off.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 07:11 PM~7564319
> *Okay what's the difference between speakers (like coaxials) and components?
> 
> I think terminology is throwing me off.
> *


Component set = two drivers, two crossovers, two tweeters










Coaxials = one driver with a tweeter in the middle


----------



## themerc

Okay, so the basic difference is the presence or absence of crossovers?

If I'm using an amp with crossovers, do I even need components?


----------



## themerc

Alright, I can get the Elemental Designs 190v.2 18" woofer for $185 new. This is it.

What do you think?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 27 2007, 09:32 PM~7565451
> *Alright, I can get the Elemental Designs 190v.2 18" woofer for $185 new. This is it.
> 
> What do you think?
> *


What do I think?

FUCK ED!

That's what I think...  

You won't fit an 18" in that car effectively...

Click my Fi link in my sig if you want to upgrade moofers...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 27 2007, 09:52 PM~7565637
> *What do I think?
> 
> FUCK ED!
> 
> That's what I think...
> 
> You won't fit an 18" in that car effectively...
> 
> Click my Fi link in my sig if you want to upgrade moofers...
> *


he can fit a single 18


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Mar 27 2007, 11:33 PM~7566047
> *he can fit a single 18
> *


I thought so too. It's a grand marquis with a massive trunk.

So... if I'm using an amp with crossovers, do I even need components?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 28 2007, 06:22 AM~7567383
> *I thought so too. It's a grand marquis with a massive trunk.
> 
> So... if I'm using an amp with crossovers, do I even need components?
> *


components give better sound than traditional coaxils......


----------



## themerc

If I were to put speakers (coaxials or components) in the rear deck again. What size would you suggest? The stock size was 6x8. I had 6x9's but they were mounted from underneath and it was a pain in the ass. I'm pretty sure 6x8, 5x7, and 5.25 will work.

Oh yeah, my car has a 135 amp alternator and a duralast gold battery 
(Size: 65
CA: 1000
CCA: 875
RC: 165).

If I'm running two 400.1's, and one 350.4, will I be able to get away with just upgrading all my wiring (amp wire and big three) to 0 gauge?


----------



## Pitbullx

focus on the front stage and dont worry about the rear speakers..... you can leave them in for rear fill but you want a nice set of speakers of front. be it components or coaxils......

Id get a 2ch amp and use it on some components and use the deck to power the rear speakers......


----------



## themerc

Hmm...

I could put the 5x7's I have in the front doors in the rear deck and put 6x8, 5x7, or 5.25 components or some good coaxials in the front doors and run them off a 150.2 or use a 350.4 for all of them.

...or...

I could just get a kicker 700.5. It's 70x4 at 4 ohms and the sub channel is 420x1 at 2 ohms. It's going for $310 shipped.


----------



## Brahma Brian

Please don't put speakers back in the rear deck, please...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Mar 28 2007, 05:21 PM~7571201
> *Please don't put speakers back in the rear deck, please...
> *


a lil rear fill isnt bad as long as his front stage isnt overpowered, its nice if you have ppl that ride in the back :biggrin: 


he should manup and cut that rear deck out though


----------



## themerc

lol I just honestly don't think kick panels will work in my car, or I'll be capable of making some.

Well anyway, here are my current thoughts...

400.1 powering cvr12 (400w @ 2 ohm)
700.5 powering cvr12 (420w @ 2 ohm) + 5x7's and another set of speakers (maybe components) (70w x 4 @ 4 ohm)


That's 1,100 watts. What would I need to do to power all of this. Can I just upgrade amp wiring to 0 guage and upgrade big three to 0 guage?

alternator= 135 amps
battery= Size: 65, CA: 1000, CCA: 875, RC: 165


----------



## Pitbullx

that single 12 enough bass for you?

dont worry about amplifying the rear fill, you can get some nice coaxils that will work in the factory location if you dont think you have the ability to make some kicks just yet.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Mar 28 2007, 08:24 PM~7571905
> *that single 12 enough bass for you?
> 
> dont worry about amplifying the rear fill, you can get some nice coaxils that will work in the factory location if you dont think you have the ability to make some kicks just yet.
> *


No I'm going to have two 12's. One running off the 400.1 and one running of the sub channel of the 700.5.


I might as well get the 700.5...

700.5 is $310
400.1 + 150.2 is $305
400.1 + 350.4 is $350


----------



## themerc

How should I wire this? Do the big three with 0 guage and run a 0 guage amp power wire that splits into two 4 guage at a distribution block and use 4 guage for the grounds too?

Would it still sound good to put some components in the front doors (stock location) and have the tweeters in the pillars? It can fit 5x7, 6x8, and 5.25.

I was looking at these and these.

The kicker amp does 70x4 at 4 ohms... would I be better off to get the components at 110 watts or coaxials at 60 watts.


----------



## themerc

Brian, Pit, Sporty?


----------



## Pitbullx

components


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 29 2007, 10:24 AM~7575996
> *1) How should I wire this? Do the big three with 0 guage and run a 0 guage amp power wire that splits into two 4 guage at a distribution block and use 4 guage for the grounds too?
> 
> Would it still sound good to put some components in the front doors (stock location) and have the tweeters in the pillars? It can fit 5x7, 6x8, and 5.25.
> 
> I was looking at these and these.
> 
> The kicker amp does 70x4 at 4 ohms... would I be better off to get the components at 110 watts or coaxials at 60 watts.
> *


1) yes

and i'd do the 5.25 componants (the first hyperlink you left) with the tweeter in the a-pillars... driverside tweeter focused at passenger and passenger tweeter focused at driver.


----------



## themerc

Okay, today I went to the stereo shop, advance auto parts, and home depot because I was bored. I got a 0 guage ANL fuse holder for $15, a 100 amp ANL fuse for $3, a digital multimeter for $15, a high-leverage cable cutter for $15, and some marine battery terminals for $3. I couldn't find 0 guage ring terminals or a crimper for 0 guage. I also wasn't sure what size ANL fuse to get... the guy at the stereo shop said 100 amp, so I went with the flow. Let me know if I'm right. This is for the main 0 guage power wire going back to the distribution block. The 400.1 is fused 40A x 1 and the 700.5 is fused 30A x 3.

I found 0 guage "4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper" for $2.00 a foot plus shipping from elemental designs, and thanks to pit, "5145 strand copper clad aluminum" for $1.75 a foot plus shipping from knukonceptz. Which is better?

I need to figure out how many feet to order to do the big three and power wire.

Questions:

1) Did I get the correct size ANL fuse?
2) Should I just replace the old wiring altogether when I do the big three?
3) At the one 0g in and two 4g out dist. block, what fuse type and sizes should I use?
4) What guage speaker wire should I use for the components?
5) What guage speaker wire should I use for the subwoofers?
6) Should I go vent or round flared port tubes?
7) I was thinking a chamber and port for each sub in the box, is this correct?
8) I want as loud as possible but I want it to hit low... what should the cubic feet and Hz be for each chamber?
9) Where can I get 0 guage ring terminals cheap?
10) Where can I get a 0 guage crimper cheap?
11) Where can I get convoluted tubing to cover the 0 guage cheap, and what size should it be?
12) Are 0 guage and 1/0 guage the same?

I know, I went crazy on the questions, but I figured I might as well get it all figured out at once.


----------



## Pitbullx

www.knukonceptz.com

and um u want a 300amp fuse for 1/0ga wire


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 30 2007, 11:38 PM~7588661
> *Okay, today I went to the stereo shop, advance auto parts, and home depot because I was bored. I got a 0 guage ANL fuse holder for $15, a 100 amp ANL fuse for $3, a digital multimeter for $15, a high-leverage cable cutter for $15, and some marine battery terminals for $3. I couldn't find 0 guage ring terminals or a crimper for 0 guage. I also wasn't sure what size ANL fuse to get... the guy at the stereo shop said 100 amp, so I went with the flow. Let me know if I'm right. This is for the main 0 guage power wire going back to the distribution block. The 400.1 is fused 40A x 1 and the 700.5 is fused 30A x 3.
> 
> I found 0 guage "4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper" for $2.00 a foot plus shipping from elemental designs, and thanks to pit, "5145 strand copper clad aluminum" for $1.75 a foot plus shipping from knukonceptz. Which is better?
> 
> I need to figure out how many feet to order to do the big three and power wire.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1) Did I get the correct size ANL fuse?
> 2) Should I just replace the old wiring altogether when I do the big three?
> 3) At the one 0g in and two 4g out dist. block, what fuse type and sizes should I use?
> 4) What guage speaker wire should I use for the components?
> 5) What guage speaker wire should I use for the subwoofers?
> 6) Should I go vent or round flared port tubes?
> 7) I was thinking a chamber and port for each sub in the box, is this correct?
> 8) I want as loud as possible but I want it to hit low... what should the cubic feet and Hz be for each chamber?
> 9) Where can I get 0 guage ring terminals cheap?
> 10) Where can I get a 0 guage crimper cheap?
> 11) Where can I get convoluted tubing to cover the 0 guage cheap, and what size should it be?
> 12) Are 0 guage and 1/0 guage the same?
> 
> I know, I went crazy on the questions, but I figured I might as well get it all figured out at once.
> *


1) 100a to 300a will be fine
2) you can leave any stock wiring in place
3) your amps are fused, you don't need to
4) I normally use 16ga (14-18 will be fine)
5) with your power, I'd say 12ga should be fine
6) I'd stick with slot port
7) Using a different amp on each sub, may be best and easier for you to do separate chambers and ports for each sub (if you had two subs mono on one amp, common chamber and common port)
8) You need to tune about 30Hz, and if you like the box you have now, just make another one to the same specs and figure out how to stuff them in your trunk...
9) http://www.knukonceptz.com
10) Use Set Screw Ring Terminals from KnuKonceptz.com - 1/0Ga Item #: SSRT0 and you won't have to crimp anything
11) I guess you mean split wire loom, take a piece of the wire you buy to any auto parts store for sizing of the loom...
12) No, 1/0 is larger than 0


----------



## themerc

I checked kicker's website for the vented box specs. They say 2.25 ft3 with a port 3" x 12.5" and 20.5" long. I think that's around 41 Hz. That doesn't seem to sound right. Sporty was saying I should do 2.25 ft3 tuned to 34 Hz, and the box I have now is 2.95 ft3 tuned to around 32 Hz.

Those set screw ring terminals seem a wee bit expensive lol. I crimped my 4 guage terminals with a big set of pliars. Do you think I'll be able to crimp 1/0 guage. (Oh and I was wondering... elemental designs calls it 0/1 guage... is there any difference? here)

Would it be better to run two 400.1s and one 150.2 vs. one 400.1 and one 700.5?


----------



## themerc

Okay, so as of right now the new marine terminal won't work on my stock setup because the things on the ends of the wires aren't ring terminals. Should I just completely replace the stock wiring when I do the big three? Or should I put ring terminals on the stock wiring (which I have no idea what guage) and also do the big three?

After looking at my stock setup, I easily found the battery negative to ground, and instead of my alternator positive going to battery positive... there's a wire going from alternator positive to a power distribution box full of fuses. The ring terminal attaches to the side of the box. On top of that ring terminal is another with a wire going to the battery positive. I haven't looked for the chassis to engine block yet.


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah, and does anyone know where I can get a 1/0 gauge crimper?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Mar 31 2007, 10:32 PM~7592817
> *Oh yeah, and does anyone know where I can get a 1/0 gauge crimper?
> *


hammer and concrete driveway :uh:

or u can go to

www.weldingsupply.com


----------



## themerc

Alright lol. Hammer it is. Okay, I can get this elemental designs wire for $2.00 a foot. Does this sound like good wire? 

"The eNETIC 0AWG wire is true 0/1 wire. The eNETIC power cable line uses 4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper."


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 1 2007, 09:02 AM~7594517
> *Alright lol. Hammer it is. Okay, I can get this elemental designs wire for $2.00 a foot. Does this sound like good wire?
> 
> "The eNETIC 0AWG wire is true 0/1 wire. The eNETIC power cable line uses 4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper."
> *


You are really getting hard headed lately... LOL

http://knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?c...ory=KLM%20Kable


----------



## themerc

lol I was just wondering because someone on another site told me to stay away from copper clad aluminum.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Apr 1 2007, 09:15 AM~7594528
> *You are really getting hard headed lately... LOL
> 
> http://knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?c...ory=KLM%20Kable
> *


I think me and someone else told him Knukonceptz awhile ago :angry: 
he aint listening


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 1 2007, 09:21 AM~7594538
> *lol I was just wondering because someone on another site told me to stay away from copper clad aluminum.
> *


Ask them why, then tell me so I can clown them...

The Knu KLM is 5145 strands, more then any other 1/0 you will find...

Also, the KLM = 1/0 NOT 0/1 like the eD wire...  

Fuck it, here, just read this thread....

http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8804


----------



## themerc

Ah I gotcha... reminds me of sound deadening/roofing material threads.

Alright, if this were your car, would you run two 400.1's and a 150.2 or one 400.1 and one 700.5?


400.1 $175
150.2 $130
700.5 $310


400.1= 400x1 @ 2 ohm
150.2= 60x2 @ 4 ohm
700.5= 420x1 @ 2 ohm and 70x4 @ 4 ohm

I'm thinking 400.1 and 700.5 because of less wiring, less space taken up, I'll have an extra 2 channels I can use later if I make kick panels, and 400 and 420 seem close enough. What's your opinion on it?


----------



## DYABLITO

DAMN NICE BUILD,YOU REALLY TOOK THE TIMEOUT 2 CLEAN IT UP


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Apr 1 2007, 09:33 AM~7594558
> *Ask them why, then tell me so I can clown them...
> 
> The Knu KLM is 5145 strands, more then any other 1/0 you will find...
> 
> Also, the KLM = 1/0 NOT 0/1 like the eD wire...
> 
> Fuck it, here, just read this thread....
> 
> http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8804
> *


the Knu 1/0 is almost as big as the RF 2/0 that I have


----------



## themerc

Well I put my new battery posts on, cut the old terminals off the stock wires, cut the old ring terminal off the amp power wire, and put new copper terminals on all of them. My car starts so much faster now...


----------



## themerc

For the big three, does it matter how long the engine block to chassis wire is? I was going to use the same bolt on the engine block and make a new chassis ground but I can't even see the end of the wire where it attaches to the engine block. I'd need a lift to get under the car and find it. Is 2-3 feet okay?


----------



## themerc

Well I measured my trunk today. My max dimensions are 44" wide (due to swinging trunk lid arms), 17" tall (leaving 3/4"-1" of room above), and 25" deep (leaving about 2" of room in front).

Would it be bad to have the box that tall? (Imagine box is 3" taller and 5" wider) Would it block airflow?


----------



## shortydoowop138

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 1 2007, 11:53 AM~7595540
> *Well I put my new battery posts on, cut the old terminals off the stock wires, cut the old ring terminal off the amp power wire, and put new copper terminals on all of them. My car starts so much faster now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Looks nice homie.. What did you use to crimp the terminals onto the wire.?.


----------



## themerc

Some pliars and some muscle lol.


----------



## shortydoowop138

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 1 2007, 08:36 PM~7598611
> *Some pliars and some muscle lol.
> *


Ok.. I have crimpers that I use for stereo installed but they won't work cables that big.. I plan on upgrading the wiring in my Cutty in the next month or so..


----------



## themerc

Yeah I'm curious to see how my pliar method will work on 1/0 guage.


----------



## shortydoowop138

You'd probably have to use a hammer to start the crimp and then use a screw driver/punch to put an indention on it so it doesn't slip..


----------



## themerc

AH I need to figure out what cubic feet and frequency I should tune my box to. What do I want the f3 and peak to be at?


----------



## themerc

Hm... how about a 2 chambered box, 2.5 cubic feet tuned to 35 Hz per chamber?


----------



## DYABLITO

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 2 2007, 07:30 PM~7604691
> *Hm... how about a 2 chambered box, 2.5 cubic feet tuned to 35 Hz per chamber?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


WHAT IS THAT?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by DYABLITO_@Apr 3 2007, 02:23 AM~7607597
> *WHAT IS THAT?
> *


a graph



yea that box is fine, make sure you have enough port area


----------



## DYABLITO

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 3 2007, 02:50 AM~7607660
> *a graph
> yea that box is fine, make sure you have enough port area
> *


NO SHIT :uh: WHAT PROGRAM IS THAT?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 3 2007, 03:50 AM~7607660
> *a graph
> yea that box is fine, make sure you have enough port area
> *


I was thinking each chamber would have a port 15.5" tall, 2" wide, and 20.3" long, does that sound good?


And it's WinISD by the way.


----------



## Sporty

30insq port area for a CVR12?

i'd say 12sqin - 15sqin to each CVR12


----------



## themerc

Kicker recommends 2.25 cubic feet with a port 12.5"x3" and 20.5" long... that's 37.5 sq. inches of port area, what's wrong with 31?


----------



## themerc

I was thinking, can you make the port on the outside of the box instead of the inside?

(quick sideview sketch)


----------



## themerc

(quick front view sketch on paint)

something along the lines of this...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by DYABLITO+Apr 3 2007, 04:50 AM~7607865-->
> 
> 
> 
> NO SHIT :uh:  WHAT PROGRAM IS THAT?
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> probably winisd or pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally posted by [email protected] 3 2007, 11:02 AM~7609025
> *30insq port area for a CVR12?
> 
> i'd say 12sqin - 15sqin to each CVR12
> *
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> you have much to learn grasshoppa
> 12.5-16in of port PER SUB per ^ft
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 12:21 PM~7609660
> *(quick front view sketch on paint)
> 
> something along the lines of this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


why would you want to do that???


----------



## themerc

Try something new lol. Maybe some black pvc pipes instead.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 3 2007, 12:45 PM~7609831
> *
> you have much to learn grasshoppa
> 12.5-16in of port PER SUB per ^ft
> 
> *



he said PER WOOFER... 31sqin PER WOOFER, i said what you just said. :uh:


----------



## themerc

So would I be better off with a 4" wide round port about 8" long per chamber?

I can't remember from geometry but I think area of a circle is pi r2, so that'd be 12.6 sq. inches of port.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc+Apr 3 2007, 12:50 PM~7609857-->
> 
> 
> 
> Try something new lol. Maybe some black pvc pipes instead.
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> waste of time, ugly, port noise, waste of money
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-Sporty_@Apr 3 2007, 12:58 PM~7609909
> *he said PER WOOFER... 31sqin PER WOOFER, i said what you just said.  :uh:
> *


you didnt say per cubic foot u just said 
"12sq in - 15sq in" :uh: :uh: 



> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 01:03 PM~7609941
> *So would I be better off with a 4" wide round port about 8" long per chamber?
> 
> I can't remember from geometry but I think area of a circle is pi r2, so that'd be 12.6 sq. inches of port.
> *


4" port is 12.56


----------



## tyhodge07

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 11:21 AM~7609660
> *(quick front view sketch on paint)
> 
> something along the lines of this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


 a hot rod box with a scoop on the top :0


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 01:03 PM~7609941
> *So would I be better off with a 4" wide round port about 8" long per chamber?
> 
> I can't remember from geometry but I think area of a circle is pi r2, so that'd be 12.6 sq. inches of port.
> *



bro, your shit will be str8 with a 3" or 4" precision port/aero port per chamber if your just doing daily... and i wouldnt go by what kicker says, if they're telling you 37sqin of port area per sub and they use a 4" tube on their kicker made enclosures for TWO cvr's, then they're not going by what they're saying either...


----------



## Pitbullx

slotport


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 3 2007, 04:02 PM~7610741
> *slotport
> *


And yes Pit, it's 12.56, I rounded lol.

The box is going to be 44" wide, 17" tall, and as deep as I need it to be.

Is there port noise with a round pvc port even if it's flared?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Apr 3 2007, 04:00 PM~7610721
> *bro, your shit will be str8 with a 3" or 4" precision port/aero port  per chamber if your just doing daily...
> *


Are slot ports used more in competition or something?


----------



## themerc

How about a box 44" wide, 17" tall, 16" deep with slot ports 7" tall and 2" wide?

winISD beta says to get 35 Hz (2.5 ft3) the 7"x2" ports should be 8.78" long but another website says 8.23"... does anyone know which is more accurate?

(website)


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 03:23 PM~7610867
> *And yes Pit, it's 12.56, I rounded lol.
> 
> The box is going to be 44" wide, 17" tall, and as deep as I need it to be.
> 
> Is there port noise with a round pvc port even if it's flared?
> *


if its not enough area yea....



> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 03:26 PM~7610884
> *Are slot ports used more in competition or something?
> *


its easier to get more area with a slot port


----------



## themerc

Should I do a 7"x2" slot port (14 sq. inches) or 4" round flared port (12.56 sq. inches)?


----------



## Pitbullx

Id do a common chambered box with a single slot port in the middle 50-60inches of port........ use a router to round off the edges of the port


----------



## themerc

I thought it was better to have seperate chambers in case one sub blew.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 05:14 PM~7611670
> *I thought it was better to have seperate chambers in case one sub blew.
> *


if you install your shit the right way and know what you are doing, blowing a sub isnt a concern :uh: :uh:


----------



## themerc

Well I know, but damn it I've been spending all this time arguing over port sizes for a dual chamber box then you tell me single chamber lol. What's the advantage to going with a single chamber? Because construction wise I think it's going to be harder to build a port that has 50-60 sq. inches and remain 2.5 ft3 per sub when it's 44" wide and 17" tall. I think it'd be easier to just build 7"x2" slot ports or use 4" flared tubes.


----------



## Pitbullx

then do what you want to do.... its your ride :uh:

gonna sound like shit


----------



## themerc

How would you make a single chambered 5 cubic foot box that's 44" wide and 17" tall have a port area of 50-60 sq. inches and be tuned to 35 Hz? because the port is going to have to be longer than the depth of the box...










like that?


----------



## themerc

Sporty, Brian, what do you think?

1 chamber or 2 chambers?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 10:35 PM~7613696
> *Sporty, Brian, what do you think?
> 
> 1 chamber or 2 chambers?
> *


One chamber, single slot port...


----------



## themerc

Alright.

Say the box is 44" wide x 17" tall x 17" deep...

5 cubic feet tuned 35 Hz

The port is 15.5" tall x 3.5" wide (54.25 sq. inches of port area) and 16.45" long.

Is this how you would build it? Would the red line be 16.45 inches long?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 3 2007, 11:08 PM~7613993
> *Alright.
> 
> Say the box is 44" wide x 17" tall x 17" deep...
> 
> 5 cubic feet tuned 35 Hz
> 
> The port is 15.5" tall x 3.5" wide (54.25 sq. inches of port area) and 16.45" long.
> 
> Is this how you would build it? Would the red line be 16.45 inches long?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I = sucks at box designing

Sporty is your man there  

I think Pit may have already addressed it, I've been busy...


----------



## themerc

Alright what about a single chambered 5 ft3 tuned to 35 Hz with the 15.5"x3.5" port (16.45" long) on the left side and just make a brace in between the subs? I'm thinking that's going to be easier, just a simple L port.


----------



## themerc

like this


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 7 2007, 12:54 PM~7637857
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like this
> *


I'd personally do the center port design in your car...


----------



## themerc

Why? Looks?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 8 2007, 02:50 PM~7644011
> *Why? Looks?
> *


No, functionality...


----------



## hearse

so incase one sub dies the other dont have to make up for the extra space and so the divider cuts down on flex?


----------



## themerc

Somebody was telling me having them next to eachother would enhance acoustic coupling.


----------



## hearse




----------



## Sporty

sorry i havent been on here lately:

use a 6" flared precision port. this things a monster(the flare is pretty huge, i think about 10" - 12").

seems like port area is a concern and a single 6" flared port will do


if you wanna shoot it down the center:

single chamber, 5.0cft w/ 6" precision port (9" total length) tuned to 35hz w/ port in the center uffin: 

you want part number PSP6-BKNT and here is tthe contact info to get it:

Precision Sound Products, Inc. would like to announce the release of the new 6" Precison Port™. 

For more information and pricing, call us at 815-599-0662 or email us at [email protected].


----------



## themerc

Alright I emailed them about the pricing and asked what the exact port area would be.

After thinking about it more, I'm tempted to get a second 400.1 and a 350.2 instead of the 700.5... would I be able to run both 400.1's and 350.2 with just one 1/0 gauge wire?


----------



## Sporty

yep...

you'll have a ANL fuse/fuse holder on the 1/0 @ the batt. run that to a 1/0 in, 3 4awg out fused distro block. run 4awg power and grounds.

continous amperes draw for all 3 combined should be around 130amperes. any ANL fuse between 200a-300a for the 1/0 will do.

you can use a fused distro that accepts AGU fuses, three 70a's will do fine.


----------



## themerc

Would it be better to get a fused dist. block that accepts ANL or MIDI fuses vs. AGU?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 10 2007, 08:30 PM~7661840
> *Would it be better to get a fused dist. block that accepts ANL or MIDI fuses vs.  AGU?
> *



it'll be cheaper to get the AGU fused dist. block. being that you dont need more then a 80a fuse per extension, no reason to have an ANL fuse dist. block. but ANY dist. fuse block will work


----------



## themerc

Don't people use ANL because in AGU's the fuse inside the glass is soldered to the endcaps and in high current situations the solder can melt and the fuse will fail?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 10 2007, 08:37 PM~7661917
> *Don't people use ANL because in AGU's the fuse inside the glass is soldered to the endcaps and in high current situations the solder can melt and the fuse will fail?
> *


use mini KF fuses if thats what your concerned about. a good number of fuses will solder itself together on a complete dead short (i.e. getting into an accident and your 4 or 2 awg power wire is cut into by the frame from collision)

mini kf's pop quick (atleast in my experience)...


----------



## themerc

Does this look like a good deal?


----------



## Sporty

seems so... uses mini-kf's w/ platinum connects..

i need to start looking because im gonna need a new distro block for my install... i have to upgrade my electric as a whole... i got a directed 2400D going in (120amperes draw) and a ORION 400.2 (50amperes draw), so i plan on running a 1/0 from a kinetik HC2000 to a 250a ANL fuse to a kinetik HC600 then to a 1/0 in, two 4awg out mini KF fused distro (one with a 150a midi, and one with a 80 midi). then run 4awg str8 to the orion w/ ground, and run 4awg to cap (just because i already have it and wont make my money back if i sale it) then to my directed 2400D.


----------



## themerc

Damn what are you going to power with the orion and the directed?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 11 2007, 02:45 PM~7667939
> *Damn what are you going to power with the orion and the directed?
> *



directed -> 4 image dynamics ID8 subwoofers

orion -> CDT 6.5" EF comps w/ satnet 480 and CDT 6.5" nyoslim coaxils


i got everything i need i just gotta upgrade my electric (dont feel like spending the cash to do it yet)... but its gonna be loud non-the-less... im expecting the bass end to be louder then my two fi car audio X12s sealed...


----------



## themerc

Niiice. Well I think I'm going to order my stuff today...

kicker 400.1
kicker 350.2
kicker cvr12
cdt 5.25" components
knukonceptz 1/0 gauge

Now I just need to figure out what to do for the power/ground distribution. 

Should I use a distribution block (not fused) for the 3 ground wires?
What size mini-ANL fuses should I get for the power distribution block (two 400.1's and one 350.2)?

I was thinking this for the power and this for the ground. Does this look good? Is it okay I'm only using one of the two 1/0 gauge inputs/outputs on both of the blocks? Is that what I should do for the grounds, have each 4 gauge amp ground go into that ground distribution block and have a single 1/0 guage actually ground into the car?


----------



## themerc

Like this... (not to scale, I know amp power and ground are on the same side, etc, etc)


----------



## themerc

Someone told me compression fittings in distribution blocks suck and I should do 3 independent grounds instead of a 'three 4 gauge in, one 1/0 guage out' ground block. Should I use a ground block with the allen wrench kind of fittings or 3 independent grounds?


----------



## Pitbullx

ground distroblock is easier to do...... and compression fittings are a pita


----------



## themerc

I found a mini-anl fused power distribution block... here. I also found two different ground distribution blocks... here and here..

Which ground block would you get?
What size mini-anl fuses should I get for the fused power distribution block? The amps are 400.1 (400 watts), 400.1 (400 watts), and 350.2 (110x2 watts).


----------



## Pitbullx

um those amps should have built in fuses.... so you dont need a fused distrobution block


----------



## themerc

I thought the purpose of the fused distribution block was to protect the wire.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 16 2007, 10:19 AM~7701843
> *I thought the purpose of the fused distribution block was to protect the wire.
> *


That's what the fuse up front by the battery is for... 

Now if you were running a second battery in the rear, a fused distro would be needed...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Apr 16 2007, 11:27 AM~7702310
> *That's what the fuse up front by the battery is for...
> 
> Now if you were running a second battery in the rear, a fused distro would be needed...
> *


truf


----------



## themerc

Alright, what should I do about RCA's...

I found my head unit manual. It's a Panasonic C7103U. It says it has a subwoofer output connecter, a preamp out connector (rear), and a preamp out connecter (front).


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 16 2007, 04:49 PM~7704699
> *Alright, what should I do about RCA's...
> 
> I found my head unit manual. It's a Panasonic C7103U. It says it has a subwoofer output connecter, a preamp out connector (rear), and a preamp out connecter (front).
> *



i think you have a master/slave option on your 400.1's 

i would run the sub-out from the HU to the first 400.1 which is selected to master and then run an out from that amp to the other 400.1 which is selected to slave.

i'd run fronts from the HU to the mids/highs amp


----------



## themerc

Okay.. well I've never taken my head unit out before and I don't know much about RCA's... can anyone link me to the exact wires I'll need? I already have 1 set of normal RCA's running to the current 400.1 now. I think they're tsunami RCA's.


----------



## shortydoowop138

from your diagram the 350 amp goes to the front (comp) and the sub goes to the 400.1 and the rear goes to the 6x9 in the rear deck if you have any


----------



## themerc

Yeah I just didn't know if I should be running 2 or 3 RCA cables... what does this cable look like that links the two 400.1's?


----------



## shortydoowop138

run all 3 to the back then get a y-connect for the 2-400.1s and you will be okay


----------



## themerc

Well I ordered the 400.1, 350.2, and cvr12 tonight. I'll order the components, distribution blocks, and wiring tomorrow night.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 18 2007, 09:37 PM~7723748
> *Well I ordered the 400.1, 350.2, and cvr12 tonight. I'll order the components, distribution blocks, and wiring tomorrow night.
> *


You bout to get crunk fa sho! :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

I'm curious... after reading some recent thread about facing the subs toward the front...










There's my trunk (a while ago). The box I'm going to build will be 44" wide, 17" tall, and 17" deep. The box is going to fit with .5-1" of room in between the trunk lid arms on both sides, and leave about 1" above. It's going to have probably 10" in front of it. Would it be better to face the box towards the front so it has that big open shelf area to fire into?


The box below is 39" wide, 14" tall, and 14" deep... to gie you a visual idea how big the new box will be.


----------



## Brahma Brian

It's free to try, but I think you'll find that in your car it will be louder facing the rear...


----------



## themerc

Ah, well I finished deadening the trunk lid finally. I'm done deadening the trunk, trunk lid, and rear deck. Apparently my 75 sq. ft. estimation was pretty damn good. I had 2-3 sq. ft. left over. I think I'll order some more eventually and do the front doors.


As for this box, I want to do something creative. I want to stick with MDF, but I want to do something elaborate that's going to look and sound sweet. I'm bored with the basic rectangular box.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 21 2007, 10:20 PM~7744655
> *Ah, well I finished deadening the trunk lid finally. I'm done deadening the trunk, trunk lid, and rear deck. Apparently my 75 sq. ft. estimation was pretty damn good. I had 2-3 sq. ft. left over. I think I'll order some more eventually and do the front doors.
> As for this box, I want to do something creative. I want to stick with MDF, but I want to do something elaborate that's going to look and sound sweet. I'm bored with the basic rectangular box.
> *


thats how i feel but sometimes if you dont want to go to fiberglass, thats what you have to stick with. but you can do some creative stuff with just wood, just gotta have an imagination, patience, and just make sure that your design works for what your doing.



















i still havent gotten trunk pics of this build/install i did last month.... i guess the guy is lovin his system because i havent seen him since


----------



## themerc

Well my 2 amps and sub finally shipped out. They should be here on Friday.


----------



## themerc

Alright, guys... what do you think of this...


----------



## Sporty

i dont like that port.

you should do a double shot in the center (pretty much what you have now just with a divider in the center of the port... just a 2chamber box with the ports both firing from the center)

but besides that, volume and tuning seems right. the port and divider (if you do it double shot style) should be enough bracing for that large of a enclosure.


----------



## themerc

Okay, but wait a second. For port area... should it be 12.5-16 in2 per cubic foot per woofer?

Each chamber would be 2.5 ft3, so each port should have between 31.25- 40 in2 of port right?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 25 2007, 06:44 AM~7768465
> *Okay, but wait a second. For port area... should it be 12.5-16 in2 per cubic foot per woofer?
> 
> Each chamber would be 2.5 ft3, so each port should have between 31.25- 40 in2 of port right?
> *



15-17in2 per port...


----------



## themerc

Which question are you answering?

Where does this magic number for port area come from? Is there some formula I dont know about? Because you said 12-15 earlier and Pit said "12.5-16in of port PER SUB per ^ft"

According to this website, a single 12" woofer with an xmax of 12.64mm tuned to 35Hz should have a minimum area of 24.24 in2.


----------



## Sporty

then use that then.

there isnt a magic formula... me and pit are riding off of past experience and of course our memory isnt the best (so the numbers may vary but they're coming up in the same range)... i think being that me and pit both pretty much locked on with the 12-15 range, you might wanna shoot there...plus, that first calculator (which is the one im assuming you used) doesnt even ask for the volume used for the sub. it just spits out a number depending on diameter, xmax, and tuning... last i checked, net volume had something to do with it too.

for a cvr12", 25sqin of port is a bit much. i think it might decrease the overall performance of the sub. but i mean, try it and find out. i wouldnt do it though.


----------



## themerc

Didn't Pit say 12.5-16 inches of port area _per sub per cubic foot_ though?


----------



## themerc

I think I'm going to go with this...










The ports are 2" wide, 15.5" tall, and 20.25" long (31 sq. inches of port... each). It's 2.5341 ft3 plus port displacement and sub displacement.


----------



## themerc

Well I started on my box. The front pieces and top piece arent actually glued and screwed yet... just resting there. I still need to do that, a little more caulking, file the sub holes, carpet it, and drop in the subs and wire.


----------



## Pitbullx

looking pretty good 

make sure you take time and get all the gaps filled in


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Apr 29 2007, 08:56 PM~7798892
> *looking pretty good
> 
> make sure you take time and get all the gaps filled in
> *


definetly.. it makes all the difference. literally


your showing much potential bro. finally someone besides myself is building on this forum.

for next time:

remember to round over your port openings and any corner bends in the port. it'll lower the turbulance and reduce port noise while increasing the overall output. also, running some resin across your boards give it a slick surface (if it goes on smooth without the resin lumps) and that'll also reduce port noise.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 27 2007, 02:50 PM~7786603
> *Didn't Pit say 12.5-16 inches of port area per sub per cubic foot though?
> *



pit used about the same port area you used (he used 65sqin, your using 62sqin) on two 15's in 6cubes with a crossfire VR2000... your using CVR 12's. now trust, if he were walling it, he would probably have some where around 100sqin of port but im just showing you how those calculators and such dont work all the time. thats why you gotta get experienced so you can do it yourself. depending on what your doing, and how your doing it, things change.

and CVR12's are no where near as forceful as modified SX 15's on 2400+wRMS ....

personally, i'd use a 3" precision port on one in the 2.25cubes and be alright. i built a bunch of boxes for the cvr12, and to be honest, their wasnt much of a difference from a 15sqin slot vent to a 3" precision port (just a tad more noticible port noise out of the slot vent, but i was in a single cab so it woulda been different in a trunk car).


not saying your enclosure is gonna be crap or a waste of time, im just giving you the facts.


----------



## themerc

Yeah I forgot to round over the corners until after I attached the pieces, so I did my best to file the corners down... but it isn't easy fitting my hand in a 2" wide opening. The holes I cut for the subs are 1/16- 1/8" too small so I'll need to file those down too, so I might as well keep filing the corners in the ports.


Should I use the caulk in the joints in the ports? (You can see I haven't caulked inside the ports)


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Apr 30 2007, 10:25 AM~7802022
> *Yeah I forgot to round over the corners until after I attached the pieces, so I did my best to file the corners down... but it isn't easy fitting my hand in a 2" wide opening. The holes I cut for the subs are 1/16- 1/8" too small so I'll need to file those down too, so I might as well keep filing the corners in the ports.
> Should I use the caulk in the joints in the ports? (You can see I haven't caulked inside the ports)
> *


lol duh

thats why you round it over before you assemble attach it to the enclosure...

and use liquid nails wood glue to fill the gaps


----------



## themerc

I have carpenters wood glue and 100% silicone paintable caulk.


----------



## themerc

So what kind of stereo competitions are out there? I've always wanted to enter one... but I'm well aware that would be an embarassment with my equiptment lol. I can't really do show either because I'm not all glassed out with amp displays and neon and all that... shit my trunk jamb isn't even painted blue.


----------



## Pitbullx

db drag/bassrace


----------



## themerc

Well, I feel like a moron. I put the box in my trunk (rested the front and top pieces) and the lid doesn't close by about 1" because of those damn grooves hanging down from the trunk lid... looks like I'll have a box for sale soon...


----------



## WhitePapi2006

DAMN THAT SUCKS HOMIE JUST BUILD ANOTHER I GUESS BUT A DIFFERENT WAY


----------



## Pitbullx

ditch the false floor


----------



## themerc

Unfortunately, the space in between the weird shelves on the sides of my trunk are only like 40" wide, so my box would be sitting on the edges of those shelves like 2"on each side...




























Now, I may be able to build a box that will attach to the bottom of my sub box and jack it up just enough to sit on those edges, but have support in the middle too (and ditch the floor). But either way, I need that spare tire... in fact I had to use it a couple weeks ago.


----------



## shortydoowop138

if your box is 44inches wide and the space is 40 what got you worried


----------



## themerc

Well if the space is 40", and my box is 44", the box won't fit... only 4" of the total 44" will be resting on the floor of the trunk... that seems prettyy stressful on the box and the shelves on the sides of the trunk.


----------



## shortydoowop138

can you build like a H brace to go under the box.You know 2 bars going one direction and a cross bar in the middle or some shit


----------



## themerc

Yeah probably... but my spare tire is going to have to fit under it.


----------



## shortydoowop138

Yeah build the brace with some type of metal like that stuff they wrap frames with


----------



## themerc

Maybe, or I could do something like this...


----------



## Brahma Brian

That box would make the subs load really funky, I wouldn't do it...


----------



## themerc

Damn, well you got any ideas?


----------



## Pitbullx

put the donut spare on the rear deck and use the spare tire well for the sub box?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 1 2007, 07:31 PM~7813766
> *Well, I feel like a moron. I put the box in my trunk (rested the front and top pieces) and the lid doesn't close by about 1" because of those damn grooves hanging down from the trunk lid... looks like I'll have a box for sale soon...*





> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 2 2007, 05:55 PM~7821531
> *Damn, well you got any ideas?
> *


Yes I do! :cheesy: 

Remake the box about two inches shorter and make up the volume in width or depth...  

For that matter, if the front and top isn't secured yet, trim the box down with a circular saw dude, it wouldn't be hard at all...

If the box is put together...

You _could_ try a router with a 1/2" round over bit around the front corners, but without seeing it, I cant be sure that will clear the ridges in your trunk lid...

You could also cut off the two front corners a couple of inches at a 45 degree angle and fiberglass from inside the box in the corners and smooth the outside...


----------



## themerc

Well I can't go any wider, in fact I should probly cut the width to 43"... you probably can't see it in the pics, but the sides of the box are 1/16-1/8" from touching part of the metal lid arm attachments. Do you think it would hurt sound to make the front of the box closer to the rear wall of the trunk?


----------



## Brahma Brian

If it was ME, and the box wasn't completely put together, I'd hack an inch off the height of everything and put the top back on it and call it a day...

You won't hear the sound difference of that little bit with it being in the trunk...


----------



## themerc

Unfortunately I don't have any circular saws or routers... I just have a 25 dollar jigsaw.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 2 2007, 06:46 PM~7821799
> *Unfortunately I don't have any circular saws or routers... I just have a 25 dollar jigsaw.
> *


It's possible to do it with that, but it would take some time...

Circular saws aren't expensive...  

You either gotta alter what you have, or start all over, pick one, I don't know what else to tell you...


----------



## themerc

Yeah I think I'll start over and sell the box, how much do you think I should sell it for?

Oh yeah, and what's the farthest you should have subs from the very rear wall of the trunk?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Apr 30 2007, 08:49 AM~7801591
> *pit used about the same port area you used (he used 65sqin, your using 62sqin) on two 15's in 6cubes with a crossfire VR2000... your using CVR 12's. now trust, if he were walling it, he would probably have some where around 100sqin of port but im just showing you how those calculators and such dont work all the time. thats why you gotta get experienced so you can do it yourself. depending on what your doing, and how your doing it, things change.
> 
> and CVR12's are no where near as forceful as modified SX 15's on 2400+wRMS ....
> 
> personally, i'd use a 3" precision port on one in the 2.25cubes and be alright. i built a bunch of boxes for the cvr12, and to be honest, their wasnt much of a difference from a 15sqin slot vent to a 3" precision port (just a tad more noticible port noise out of the slot vent, but i was in a single cab so it woulda been different in a trunk car).
> not saying your enclosure is gonna be crap or a waste of time, im just giving you the facts.
> *


guess this post was over looked.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@May 2 2007, 10:26 PM~7822943
> *guess this post was over looked.
> *


How so?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 2 2007, 10:01 PM~7823265
> *How so?
> *


my point about the oversized port area for the cvr's was made then?


----------



## themerc

Yeah lol. What made you think it wasn't?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 3 2007, 06:38 AM~7825448
> *Yeah lol. What made you think it wasn't?
> *


just double checking :cheesy: 

if you make another box, dont make it just tall enough for the trunk to close, go ahead and make it maybe 14" tall. cut the width to 43" and go from there...

it's okay if you play with the volume and tuning, just keep it proportional.

so in other words, if you cant make the 2.25cubes @ 35hz, go for a 2.00cubes @ 33hz.


you'll cut down on port discplacement if you use 3"precision ports. if you dont want to go that route, and if my point was made earlier, go ahead and knock that port area down to around 17sqin per side.


----------



## themerc

What are the advantages/disadvantages to running 2.25 cubes vs. 2.5 cubes? Or is it too minimal?


What is the diameter of a 3" precision port at the opening? 4" precision port? When calculating port area of a precision port you use the largest diamater (the opening) right?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 3 2007, 10:36 AM~7826363
> *What are the advantages/disadvantages to running 2.25 cubes vs. 2.5 cubes? Or is it too minimal?
> What is the diameter of a 3" precision port at the opening? 4" precision port? When calculating port area of a precision port you use the largest diamater (the opening) right?
> *



-6"
-close to 8"

http://www.psp-inc.com/psp-inc.com/cgi-bin..._calculator.cgi


THAT LINK IS ALL YOU NEED IF YOUR GOING TO USE A PRECISION PORT. PUT THE CALCULATOR DOWN!!!

a 3inch will get it done and get it done well for a trunked setup with cvr12" for a sql streetbeater. I think your getting mixed up with the stuff your learning (teaching yourself).


quick lesson about enclosures concerning port area:

in my opinion, port area is SUB/BOX/USAGE/VEHICLE based. for what you are doing, a 3" flared port is what you want to use (one per chamber). if you where using FI Q12's and going for a deeper, lower bottom octave increase, and you were in an SUV, i would say to use a 4" per chamber. if you where using SSD 15's i would say 2 4" ports per chamber.


i know your gonna do your own thing because thats how we humans learn but if i come off pushy, im just trying to save you time, and money because i've already been there...

about three years ago, i was you and brahmabrian was me... and i still did my own thing and in the end, i learned he was right...

i dont know if you've ever heard a setup that had too much port area for the sub's and usage... it doesnt sound bad, but it isnt close to as loud as it could be. 

if you were trying to compete in the lanes would suggest something different then the 3" ports, but your not...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@May 3 2007, 12:28 PM~7826696
> *-6"
> -close to 8"
> 
> http://www.psp-inc.com/psp-inc.com/cgi-bin..._calculator.cgi
> THAT LINK IS ALL YOU NEED IF YOUR GOING TO USE A PRECISION PORT. PUT THE CALCULATOR DOWN!!!
> 
> a 3inch will get it done and get it done well for a trunked setup with cvr12" for a sql streetbeater. I think your getting mixed up with the stuff your learning (teaching yourself).
> quick lesson about enclosures concerning port area:
> 
> in my opinion, port area is SUB/BOX/USAGE/VEHICLE based. for what you are doing, a 3" flared port is what you want to use (one per chamber). if you where using FI Q12's and going for a deeper, lower bottom octave increase, and you were in an SUV, i would say to use a 4" per chamber. if you where using SSD 15's i would say 2 4" ports per chamber.
> i know your gonna do your own thing because thats how we humans learn but if i come off pushy, im just trying to save you time, and money because i've already been there...
> 
> about three years ago, i was you and brahmabrian was me... and i still did my own thing and in the end, i learned he was right...
> 
> i dont know if you've ever heard a setup that had too much port area for the sub's and usage... it doesnt sound bad, but it isnt close to as loud as it could be.
> 
> if you were trying to compete in the lanes would suggest something different then the 3" ports, but your not...
> *



Okay,

I was just told from other people that a 3" precision port would make too much port noise because it's so small and the port velocity would be so great... but shit, I might as well try it. So the absolute best setup would be 2.25 cubes at 35 Hz with a 3" precision port? Just clarifying before I build another box lol.

Oh and by the way, if I were competing, what would you suggest different?


----------



## Pitbullx

*migrane*

just make a slot port....


----------



## themerc

Sporty vs. Pit and Round vs. Slot lol


----------



## Pitbullx

the pitbull speaks the truth...


----------



## themerc

Well while we wait for Sporty's rebuttal lol...

What volume/tune/port area would make a cvr12 the loudest, like for competition? (just curious)


----------



## Pitbullx

for a burp? that would involve finding ur resonant frequency and testing different box/port configurations to get it to peak on a mic.....


----------



## themerc

Ah... so Pit do you agree with the 2.25 cubes at 35 Hz for the loudest/best daily setup?


----------



## Pitbullx

depends on what you want


----------



## themerc

Well what are the options?


----------



## tyhodge07

make ur false floor of the same material.. than take the bottom off the bok and mount it to the false floor as 1 piece, than wrap it all up in th e grey shit, than call it done


----------



## themerc

Trust me, that false floor was harder than any box... and I don't want to go through all the trouble of trying to unscrew 50 2" screws and breaking wood glue... I might as well just build a new box and sell the old one.


----------



## themerc

My "amp rack"... it's more like a raised piece of MDF to attach my amps, distribution blocks, and wires to. It's raised up so it can fit over the spare tire attachments on the back shelf, and allow the screws holding everything down to go through and hang down without going into the floor of the shelf. 

Eventually I'll make a real amp rack... kind of like mine upside down with a cover over the amps with fans, neon, etc.




































upside down^

I have to attach those 3 amps, 2 distribution blocks, and all the wires, how do you think I should place everything on the rack?


----------



## themerc

Well I just ordered 35 feet of blue eNETIC 1/0 gauge wire (4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper), the fused power distribution block, and the ground distribution block. I still need 1 long RCA cable, 1 short RCA cable, remote wire, ring terminals, split loom tubing, components, carpet for the box/amp rack, anl and mini-anl fuses.

1. How big should my 1/0 guage anl fuse be? 200A? 250A? 300A?
2. How big should my three mini-anl fuses on the distrubiton block be? 60A?
3. What kind of RCA cables should I get?
4. Is the short RCA cable attaching the two 400.1's a normal RCA cable just shorter?
5. Should I use set screw ring terminals or crimp?
6. Has anyone ordered from woofersetc.com?
7. Do you think these would be good components? 
8. They're 110 rms per speaker/tweeter combo right?
9. What size split loom do you need for 1/0 gauge?


----------



## Pitbullx

you fucked up by ordering elemental designs shit.... tisk tisk tisk

knukonceptz,rf or tsunami mang


----------



## themerc

I didn't see rf or tsunami cheap anywhere and every other forum I went on said the enetic would handle more amps than the CCA KLM in case I wanted to add more amps in the future.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 6 2007, 07:34 PM~7845708
> *I didn't see rf or tsunami cheap anywhere and every other forum I went on said the enetic would handle more amps than the CCA KLM in case I wanted to add more amps in the future.
> *


KLM is the entry level wire.... ur system is only as good as its weakest link... that elemental wire is shit

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.c...olossus%20Kable


----------



## themerc

Yeah, but no one ever recommended that I get the higher level knukonceptz... you guys told me to get the KLM.


----------



## Training Day

*1. How big should my 1/0 guage anl fuse be? 200A? 250A? 300A?*

Add all ur amp fuses together and put the same size fuse.

*2. How big should my three mini-anl fuses on the distrubiton block be? 60A?*

Is it a 1 to 3 way? Each fuse should be the same size as the amp its going to.

*3. What kind of RCA cables should I get?*

Good Ones, ppl have their own prefs.

*4. Is the short RCA cable attaching the two 400.1's a normal RCA cable just shorter?*

Ya, remember to get sheilded ones.

*5. Should I use set screw ring terminals or crimp?*

BEST ADVICE ANYONE CAN GIVE (MY OPINION) Crimp it TIGHTLEY drill a small hole in the crimped part and solder the FUCK out of it. 

*6. Has anyone ordered from woofersetc.com?*

Ya, not me.

*7. Do you think these would be good components?*

Ya, CDTs a great brand from beginer to pro.

*8. They're 110 rms per speaker/tweeter combo right?*

5.25" 2-Way Component System

Mid: Stamped Powder coated 5.25"

Crossover: 2-Way SatNat-400

Tweeter: TW-25 Deluxe 1" silk soft dome

_Power Handling: 110 watt RMS_

Frequency Response: 65-20kHz

Sensitivity: 90.8 dB

Impedance: 4Ohm

Surface & Flush mount swivel tweeter

Thats what it says.


*9. What size split loom do you need for 1/0 gauge?*

About 3/4in


----------



## themerc

Okay, my 400.1's have one 40A fuse and the 350.2 has two 25A fuses... so are you saying the fuse by the battery should be 130A? 

...and for the one 1/0 gauge in three 4 gauge out dist. block... I should have two 40A fuses and one 50A fuse?


and about the power handling, I was just making sure the left side is 110 rms and the right side is 110 rms. I didn't want to order them to find out the site added them up to get 110 rms, because my kicker 350.2 is 110x2 @ 4 ohms.

I was thinking about getting some copper 1/0 ring terminals at the hardware store because they're only like $1.59 each vs. $4.50 plus shipping for set screw ones on knukonceptz.

I called the local shop about RCA's and he said he sells the tsunami elite series (20') for like $25 and a short one for like $10. Oh and what do you mean by the shielded ones?


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 7 2007, 07:32 PM~7852922
> *Okay, my 400.1's have one 40A fuse and the 350.2 has two 25A fuses... so are you saying the fuse by the battery should be 130A?
> 
> ...and for the one 1/0 gauge in three 4 gauge out dist. block should have two 40A fuses and one 50A fuse?
> and about the power handling, I was just making sure the left side is 110 rms and the right side is 110 rms. I didn't want to order them to find out the site added them up to get 110 rms, because my kicker 350.2 is 110x2 @ 4 ohms.
> *


Batt fuse- Ya.
Dist fuse- Ya.
RMS- Ya, 110 each side/channel

BTW. I probally didnt read this but u have 3 amps. So y r u using only 2?


----------



## themerc

400.1 to cvr12, 400.1 to cvr12, and 350.2 to cdt components


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 7 2007, 07:32 PM~7852922
> *I was thinking about getting some copper 1/0 ring terminals at the hardware store because they're only like $1.59 each vs. $4.50 plus shipping for set screw ones on knukonceptz.
> 
> I called the local shop about RCA's and he said he sells the tsunami elite series (20') for like $25 and a short one for like $10. Oh and what do you mean by the shielded ones?
> *


Shielded so if the power/ audio(RCA) wires are close together, it can stop any "buzzing sound"

For the brands, everybody has their own prefs. But Tsunami is a great brand (theyre probally sheilded)

For the terminals _*I*_ would go with the copper ones because you can crimp it then solder it, which would be more secure than a screw. The screw in ones would be my second choice, copper is a better/best conductor than silver/nickel and just thats about it, I like copper ones 100 times better. Its cheap and can be replaced if needed. But crimp and solder that bitch good.


----------



## Training Day

Oh my bad, I re-read and see u said ur gonna use 2 40 amp and one 50 amp fuse. I thought u said 1 40 and 1 50.


----------



## themerc

...so does anything you said change? lol

Still a 130A anl at the battery and 40A, 40A, and 50A mini anls at the block?


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 7 2007, 07:46 PM~7853009
> *...so does anything you said change? lol
> 
> Still a 130A anl at the battery and 40A, 40A, and 50A mini anls at the block?
> *


Naa, still each fuse size should be same as the amp @ the dist. block.

I put more stuff in my previous post about the terminals.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 7 2007, 05:48 PM~7852641
> *Yeah, but no one ever recommended that I get the higher level knukonceptz... you guys told me to get the KLM.
> *


I never suggested KLM n00b you better recheck your info...


----------



## Pitbullx

300amp underhood fuse.....*migrane*


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 7 2007, 08:24 PM~7853225
> *I never suggested KLM n00b you better recheck your info...
> *


I never said Pitbull either, if you want to get all analytical. You suggested knukonceptz and Brian suggested KLM knukonceptz and you kept quoting him backing up the knukonceptz... so I had no reason to believe you meant anything other than the KLM.


----------



## BigLinc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 7 2007, 08:25 PM~7853234
> *300amp underhood fuse.....*migrane*
> *


self torture?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 4 2007, 06:51 PM~7836497
> *Well while we wait for Sporty's rebuttal lol...
> 
> What volume/tune/port area would make a cvr12 the loudest, like for competition? (just curious)
> *


dont have to wait for me... im through with this thread..

i've worked with cvr's many of times and if you dont want my opinion, then dont take it. i build sq/sql street beaters, not SPL vehicles for the lanes, so go with what you want.

not wasting my time anymore if you dont trust my opinion to begin with.


----------



## themerc

It just seems like you and pit have a lot of experience with this but you both have completely different views and I'm trying to figure out why.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 8 2007, 10:10 AM~7857495
> *It just seems like you and pit have a lot of experience with this but you both have completely different views and I'm trying to figure out why.
> *


pit is an SPL bass head, im not.

he can be an audiophile when he wants to be but my realm is sq/sql, his for the most part is spl

i have most to all of my experience in streetbeater systems and i believe a large margin of his is in the spl bass race lanes

but for this particular sub, i've built a good number of boxes for it (was a popular sub to have over here 2 years ago... i think bestbuy had them on a crazy sale so everyone wanted it), gotten advice from a guy that dealt with tons of stillwater designs subwoofers, and i've owned your model sub. thats why i can say what i say with straight assurance; because i've built enclosures that worked well and some that havent. so depending on what your going for, i can pretty much nail it depending on your vehicle


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by BigLinc_@May 7 2007, 11:47 PM~7855677
> *self torture?
> *


chinese water tourture has nothing on LIL


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@May 8 2007, 10:18 AM~7857527
> *pit is an SPL bass head, im not.
> 
> he can be an audiophile when he wants to be but my realm is sq/sql, his for the most part is spl
> 
> i have most to all of my experience in streetbeater systems and i believe a large margin of his is in the spl bass race lanes
> 
> but for this particular sub, i've built a good number of boxes for it (was a popular sub to have over here 2 years ago... i think bestbuy had them on a crazy sale so everyone wanted it), gotten advice from a guy that dealt with tons of stillwater designs subwoofers, and i've owned your model sub. thats why i can say what i say with straight assurance; because i've built enclosures that worked well and some that havent. so depending on what your going for, i can pretty much nail it depending on your vehicle
> *


*sippin gatorade* where do I begin
Im an audiophile PERIOD. I dont compete in db drag anymore and I havent built a pure spl system in over a year so dont think that I dont know how to reproduce music accuately in a car environment. I probably have more sq equipment than equipment that would be defined as spl oriented. Big Dirty and Brian have seen what Im talking about  . I suggested Merc use a slot port because it will be cheaper, easier to impliment, get louder and will sound better (not for pure spl applications as you seem to believe). A pair of 3" aeros will be choking a 4.5-5.0^ft box thusly wont perform as well as a 12.5"h x 4w slot port with rounded edges (if box was 14" high). I know how the cvr's perform, they were one of the best selling subs at our shop for quite awhile so as always Im speaking from 1st hand experience not what Ive been told (not saying that you are)


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 8 2007, 06:41 PM~7860717
> **sippin gatorade* where do I begin
> Im an audiophile PERIOD. I dont compete in db drag anymore and I havent built a pure spl system in over a year so dont think that I dont know how to reproduce music accuately in a car environment.  I probably have more sq equipment than equipment that would be defined as spl oriented.  Big Dirty and Brian have seen what Im talking about   .  I suggested Merc use a slot port because it will be cheaper, easier to impliment, get louder and will sound better (not for pure spl applications as you seem to believe). A pair of 3" aeros will be choking a 4.5-5.0^ft box thusly wont perform as well as a 12.5"h  x  4w slot port with rounded edges (if box was 14" high).  I know how the cvr's perform, they were one of the best selling subs at our shop for quite awhile so as always Im speaking from 1st hand experience not what Ive been told (not saying that you are)
> *


Umm.. If properly built it would only make a difference of .2 Db. If any at all. If louder as in hearing and not sound pressure then w/e. Oh yea, there are ports bigger that 3" if size is a problem.


----------



## hearse

damn this thread got vicious  if u guys wanna fight over some new shit hit up my thread about a new system for the hearse. I finally sold my kickers to get the ball rolling on 2 fi bl 18's :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

Alright, what if I were to build 2 different boxes, one for daily use and one for SPL. Could I use like t-nuts or something to make it easy for me to take the subs out and put them in a new box and vice versa while keeping them tightly attached?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by hearse_@May 8 2007, 07:19 PM~7860977
> *damn this thread got vicious  if u guys wanna fight over some new shit hit up my thread about a new system for the hearse. I finally sold my kickers to get the ball rolling on 2 fi bl 18's :cheesy:
> *


Get outta here hearse lol.


Oh yeah...

I got a 20' tsunami elite RCA cable, 6' tsunami elite RCA cable, a 4'x12' piece of carpet, 4 feet of remote wire, and eight 1/0 gauge copper terminals for $65. All I need still is 3/4" split loom, components, fuses, MDF, screws, and precision ports if I decide to use them.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Ceiling_Fan_Club_@May 8 2007, 05:49 PM~7860765
> *Umm.. If properly built it would only make a difference of .2 Db. If any at all. If louder as in hearing and not sound pressure then w/e. Oh yea, there are ports bigger that 3" if size is a problem.
> *


***** you really have no fucking clue do you...


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 8 2007, 08:00 PM~7861310
> ****** you really have no fucking clue do you...
> *


You must be really fuckin stupid if you think a song cant SOUND "louder" on one sub than another even tho the other sub has a higher sound pressure rating.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Ceiling_Fan_Club_@May 8 2007, 08:15 PM~7861874
> *You must be really fuckin stupid if you think a song cant SOUND "louder" on one sub than another even tho the other sub has a higher sound pressure rating.
> *


***** you make no fucking sense....... think before you type, I really dont feel like handing another n00b his ass right now


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 8 2007, 09:18 PM~7861895
> ****** you make no fucking sense....... think before you type, I really dont feel like handing another n00b his ass right now
> *


Its not that hard to understand. Here wait a while and Ill EXPLAIN what I mean.


----------



## hearse

:scrutinize: im waiting


----------



## Training Day

A woofer's T/S parameters are measured in a free-air environment. As soon as you introduce any form of acoustic suspension or impedance upon a woofer (i.e. an enclosure) you shift the T/S parameters to where the woofer's motor force, equivalent air compliance, and total Q could render it more compliant than the more efficient woofer.

If it was simply a matter of efficiency than SPL competition vehicles would use PA woofers.

Im going to stop discussing this with you, because, its TOO long to explain to a "pro" like you.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Ceiling_Fan_Club_@May 8 2007, 09:16 PM~7862361
> *A woofer's T/S parameters are measured in a free-air environment. As soon as you introduce any form of acoustic suspension or impedance upon a woofer (i.e. an enclosure) you shift the T/S parameters to where the woofer's motor force, equivalent air compliance, and total Q could render it more compliant than the more efficient woofer.
> 
> If it was simply a matter of efficiency than SPL competition vehicles would use PA woofers.
> 
> Im going to stop discussing this with you, because, its TOO long to explain to a "pro" like you.
> *


noone is talking about the spl rating of a speaker relating to its realworld performance, so stop pulling shit out of left field. If you had any real knowledge of audio you would know what was going on. Besides anyone can copy and paste an paragraph off the internet....if you want yo get technical rookie we can discuss flux, bl, the amount of coil in the gap in relation to performance at high excursion, magnet type choices and their advantages/disadvantages, and so on but that wouldnt have shit to do with the matter. then again there isnt enough time in the world for you to search around the internet for a copy n paste responce to everything I say or rebute ***** being as though it took you just over an hour to post a few lines. Ive probably built more subwoofers in a two week time frame than you have ever owned :uh: . The matter at hand is his choice in port and its correspondence to performance. And if you think 2- 3" aeroports are only .2db quieter than say 50-75in of slot port you are a fucking idiot point blank. I dont have to run around and try to prove my knowledge on the matter of car audio to new booty rookies like yourself. People come to me for help and trust my advice for a reason.




ps original "spl king" woofer was a pa sub ie. Cerwin Vega stroker and the sub that damn near every new sub that comes out are compared to the Digital Designs 9500's are pro audio subs as well.... but again that has nothing to do with this topic


----------



## Training Day

Homie your a fuckin dumbass, go anywhere on the internet and find that pargraph. I was talking to VERY well known bass team and that was a quote from one of his messages. Im not gonna say nobodys name not the team not the guys but maybe u worship the dude im talking to? And for the port vs slot dumbass, if they were exactly the same "size" it wouldent make much of a difference.  Like I said you can do ur thing and w/e, Im done with you.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 8 2007, 05:41 PM~7860717
> **sippin gatorade* where do I begin
> Im an audiophile PERIOD. I dont compete in db drag anymore and I havent built a pure spl system in over a year so dont think that I dont know how to reproduce music accuately in a car environment.  I probably have more sq equipment than equipment that would be defined as spl oriented.  Big Dirty and Brian have seen what Im talking about   .  I suggested Merc use a slot port because it will be cheaper, easier to impliment, get louder and will sound better (not for pure spl applications as you seem to believe). A pair of 3" aeros will be choking a 4.5-5.0^ft box thusly wont perform as well as a 12.5"h  x  4w slot port with rounded edges (if box was 14" high).  I know how the cvr's perform, they were one of the best selling subs at our shop for quite awhile so as always Im speaking from 1st hand experience not what Ive been told (not saying that you are)
> *


what do i know pit... i dont build anything... never built an enclosure in my life, especially for cvrs...

and it would be a 3" flared per 2 - 2.25 cubes (he's doing a two chamber), so that wont be choking anything...

but now that i think about it, go with a slot vent... just go with what pitbull is saying, he speaks truth. if you want to do a common chamber slot for the cvrs, then go with the 50sqin port area.

and why are we going nuts over cvr's anyways??


----------



## themerc

Would there be a noticable difference between flared and not flared round ports?

like a 3" flared vs. a 4" regular


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 9 2007, 02:47 PM~7868146
> *Would there be a noticable difference between flared and not flared round ports?
> *


just do a slot vent and round over the port openings (the outside port mouth and the inside)


if you have any resin laying around, you can brush over your inner walls to make them slick... 

just incase, wait for pit to post because apperently i talk out of my ass on this site


----------



## BigLinc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 8 2007, 06:31 PM~7860641
> *chinese water tourture has nothing on LIL
> *


agreed


----------



## Training Day

> *Well then just let him be. Trying to turn stubborn idiots smart is no better than trying to convert someone's religion. Just let him do his thing. If he's good enough, maybe he'll progress to having his ass whooped in the world finals.*


Hey Pit, heres what this dude from the WORLD FINALS has to say about you. What was that? Your not even known in ur whole state? Yes I said FINALS you probally jackoff to this guys setups at night  Explains how much of a "pro" you are. :0 No diss to you, but do your homework and at LEAST get known before you go off on me. Yes Iam a noob at this stuff but I got to start somewhere. But I do know what the fuck Iam talking about, unlike you. I cant beleave they would give you a cirtificate in mobile electronics. Oh well.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@May 9 2007, 02:42 PM~7868108
> *what do i know pit... i dont build anything... never built an enclosure in my life, especially for cvrs...
> 
> and it would be a 3" flared per 2 - 2.25 cubes (he's doing a two chamber), so that wont be choking anything...
> 
> but now that i think about it, go with a slot vent... just go with what pitbull is saying, he speaks truth. if you want to do a common chamber slot for the cvrs, then go with the 50sqin port area.
> 
> and why are we going nuts over cvr's anyways??
> *


its not that serious meng Im just saying that 2 3" aeros is only 14" of port area and thats extremely small for a 4.5^ft box and a larger slot port would be better suited in this instance... I recommend aero when there isnt alot of space for port area since the aero wont have as much turbulence as a smallish slot 


be easy my ashy *****


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Ceiling_Fan_Club_@May 9 2007, 04:50 PM~7869083
> *Hey Pit, heres what this dude from the WORLD FINALS has to say about you. What was that? Your not even known in ur whole state? Yes I said FINALS you probally jackoff to this guys setups at night  Explains how much of a "pro" you are. :0 No diss to you, but do your homework and at LEAST get known before you go off on me. Yes Iam a noob at this stuff but I got to start somewhere. But I do know what the fuck Iam talking about, unlike you. I cant beleave they would give you a cirtificate in mobile electronics. Oh well.
> *


Chump I could careless about what your "world finalist" friend (probably pete or tuan) has to say about me. I gave up DB Drag and USAC several years ago to concentrate on other things. Dont get it twisted and think I didnt do well because I was a 2x DB Drag and USACi world finalist/invitee, with a certified 170.5 in ss1-2 and consistant 168+ all season long. People that were active in DB Drag on the westcoast and pac nw from 99-04 know me quite well. The last competiton system I designed and installed ended up being the points champion in streetmax 1-2, rookie of the year and got a 5th place at DB Drag WF's with 1 blown sub so you do the math. So keep runnin ya cumcatcher rookie and tell your "friend" I said hello.


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 9 2007, 08:15 PM~7869890
> *Chump I could careless about what your "world finalist" friend (probably pete or tuan) has to say about me. I gave up DB Drag and USAC several years ago to concentrate on other things. Dont get it twisted and think I didnt do well because I was a 2x DB Drag and USACi world finalist/invitee, with a certified 170.5 in ss1-2 and consistant 168+ all season long.  People that were active in DB Drag on the westcoast and pac nw from 99-04 know me quite well.  The last competiton system I designed and installed ended up being the points champion in streetmax 1-2, rookie of the year and got a 5th place at DB Drag WF's with 1 blown sub so you do the math.  So keep runnin ya cumcatcher rookie and tell your "friend" I said hello.
> *


OOH you sound mad :uh: THX for the long pragraph, and nice bullshit story, I enjoyed reading it. Peace


----------



## Pitbullx

And considering I get to play with installs like these all the time I dont think I need to jackoff to anyone elses systems.....


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Training Day_@May 9 2007, 07:20 PM~7869927
> *OOH you sound mad :uh: THX for the long pragraph, and nice bullshit story, I enjoyed reading it. Peace
> *


nowhere near mad lil ***** keep it gangsta


----------



## Training Day

Im out I dont have time to look at your simple installs. Talk all the shit you want, this is the last responce youll get from me. Do your thing, fuck a monkey, w/e. I would keep responding to your bullshit fake ass stories but I have a life. As a matter of fact dont even respond to me, ignore me i dont care. The point is, Im cool with you, but i know for a fact the shit i said was not random, i dont care if you beleave me, so.. peace out and dont take it personel


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Training Day_@May 9 2007, 07:34 PM~7870015
> * Im out I dont have time to look at your simple installs. Talk all the shit you want, this is the last responce youll get from me. Do your thing, fuck a monkey, w/e. I would keep responding to your bullshit fake ass stories but I have a life. As a matter of fact dont even respond to me, ignore me i dont care. The point is, Im cool with you, but i know for a fact the shit i said was not random, i dont care if you beleave me, so.. peace out and dont take it personel
> *


bla bla bla bla bla shut the fuck up bitch and walk on


----------



## Brahma Brian

That's it, back on topic or it's locked and someone else can explain to merc why his thread got locked... :angry:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 9 2007, 07:38 PM~7870042
> *That's it, back on topic or it's locked and someone else can explain to merc why his thread got locked...  :angry:
> *


because that chump likes to run his cumcatcher :uh:


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 9 2007, 07:39 PM~7870048
> *because that chump likes to run his cumcatcher  :uh:
> *


His warn log states that he promised to be good so that Gary would un ban him with the understanding this is his LAST chance...

I've got enough Mexican beer in me right now to not give a fuck who I ban...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 9 2007, 07:41 PM~7870061
> *His warn log states that he promised to be good so that Gary would un ban him with the understanding this is his LAST chance...
> 
> I've got enough Mexican beer in me right now to not give a fuck who I ban...
> *


ur gonna get the shits


----------



## Training Day

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 9 2007, 08:38 PM~7870042
> *That's it, back on topic or it's locked and someone else can explain to merc why his thread got locked...  :angry:
> *


Ya sorry I said Im done talking to Pit.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 9 2007, 08:38 PM~7870042
> *That's it, back on topic or it's locked and someone else can explain to merc why his thread got locked...  :angry:
> *


Yeah wtf lol. I come back from writing an english paper and find a page of nonsense.


----------



## BigLinc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 9 2007, 08:52 PM~7870109
> *ur gonna get the shits
> *


the notorious water ass


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 9 2007, 06:59 PM~7869804
> *its not that serious meng Im just saying that 2 3" aeros is only 14" of port area and thats extremely small for a 4.5^ft box and a larger slot port would be better suited in this instance... I recommend aero when there isnt alot of space for port area since the aero wont have as much turbulence as a smallish slot
> be easy my ashy *****
> *



we still straight... my cocoa butter brotha

i quit my herbal reasoning practices so i can get into the corporate world, now i aint got nothin to sedate the rage...

but anyhow

here's food for thought themerc try building an enclosure where you can swap the ports out..

its gonna be hard to follow but imma try my hardest to explain it, i'll draw it out if i have to...

how about you do this:

i remember you said your trunk was a tad crowded, and the enclosure was too tall, and you didnt want to go any wider, so try a common(single) chamber enclosure that measures up to 4.25cubes net (2.125 airspace per woofer).

now get this, in the center, make a square cut out and make a mounting ring (in this case, square) that will allow another square piece to be screwed down to the enclosure and be flush with the front panel. now if you havent figured it out yet, that square piece you screw down will actually be different ports... this way you can try different tuning, as well as different port areas.

just to say it again, pretend that you want to flush mount your subwoofer, you make a mounting ring that will allow the woofer to sit flush with the front panel. do the same thing with your port, this way you can change out ports, and see what does what. of course net volume will change depending on the size of your ports but you'll still get the picture and it'll be fun none the less.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by BigLinc_@May 9 2007, 10:37 PM~7871436
> *the notorious water ass
> *


*cringes*


----------



## themerc

Okay, I really like that idea of making a box with the ability to swap out ports. I didn't completely understand what you were syaing Sporty, but was it like what Steve Meade did? Here.


----------



## Pitbullx

I dont think interchangable ports would be practical in this application since this appears to be a street setup.... things would be different if he was going to spend alot of time in the lanes though


----------



## Sporty

yeh but he seems interested in both. and plus he keeps wanting to do something so instead of building complete enclosures, he can bullshit around and play with port tuning and area, or even just do a slab and try it sealed.


themerc, look at this pic and read my post again... should be pretty clear










that way you can try flared ports too. all you gotta do is make a different "plug" everytime you feel like trying something different and you can keep the enclosure the same... save time and money, plus you got scraps of wood laying around anywayz...

and since your mixed up which way to go with this vented enclosure, hell, try both... just swap the plug


----------



## themerc

I gotcha, what should I use to attach the plug to the box? I need something like bolts and built in nuts so it won't ever loosen or the holes get too big.

Also, should I put subs up port back like his?
Or just subs and port back?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 10 2007, 10:21 AM~7874286
> *I gotcha, what should I use to attach the plug to the box? I need something like bolts and built in nuts so it won't ever loosen or the holes get too big.
> 
> Also, should I put subs up port back like his?
> Or just subs and port back?
> *


Use t-nuts to attach it so you can take it off and on easily many times with a rubber seal in place between the port plate and the box frame...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 10 2007, 12:29 PM~7874777
> *Use t-nuts to attach it so you can take it off and on easily many times with a rubber seal in place between the port plate and the box frame...
> *


Okay sounds good. What do you think I should do for the cubic feet? 4.5-5? 

Oh yeah, does it matter that one of my 400.1's is rated at 433 watts and the other is rated at 476 watts?... or should I make the box two chambered with the same 1 piece plug on the front with 2 ports?


----------



## themerc

I was thinking 5 cubes and just use a test tone and DMM to match the amp gains.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 10 2007, 05:46 PM~7877604
> *I was thinking 5 cubes and just use a test tone and DMM to match the amp gains.
> *



those birthsheets (for the most part) all bullshit. but you can use a 60hz test with 0 gain and match the voltage comming out of both amps speaker leads (using your DMM)...

as far as how many cubes..

if you can build it 4.75 gross, then that will be good but you wanna make sure your not blocking the return with your enclosure (in other words, dont make a big ass enclosure that takes up your entiretrunk... your just gonna defeat the purpose)... the cvr12's have a .08cuft discplacement which will give you 4.59cubes before port discplacement.


and for your car its sub back and port back... that enclosure meade built went into his yukon (SUV)... optimum enclosure in a vehicle like that is subs up and port back... in a trunk car like yours, subs and port back...


----------



## hearse

since i basicly have a suv when it comes down to it should i got subs back port back?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by hearse_@May 11 2007, 11:47 AM~7882972
> *since i basicly have a suv when it comes down to it should i got subs back port back?
> *


u can do either or  both will perform well


----------



## hearse

good to know


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@May 11 2007, 11:36 AM~7882455
> *those birthsheets (for the most part) all bullshit. but you can use a 60hz test with 0 gain and match the voltage comming out of both amps speaker leads (using your DMM)...
> 
> as far as how many cubes..
> 
> if you can build it 4.75 gross, then that will be good but you wanna make sure your not blocking the return with your enclosure (in other words, dont make a big ass enclosure that takes up your entiretrunk... your just gonna defeat the purpose)... the cvr12's have a .08cuft discplacement which will give you 4.59cubes before port discplacement.
> and for your car its sub back and port back... that enclosure meade built went into his yukon (SUV)... optimum enclosure in a vehicle like that is subs up and port back... in a trunk car like yours, subs and port back...
> *


Alright I have a question. Say I have a box with an internal volume of 5 cubes exactly and I'm using a pvc pipe port. Now, if I wanted to subtract the port displacement from that 5 cubes, I would subtract both the volume of the tube and the air inside of it, correct? (almost treating it like a solid cylinder)



Oh yeah, good news... it turns out my dad had a circle saw and folding table from the 70's... and they actually work... just needed to replace the 7.25" 20 tooth rusty blade with a 140 tooth lol.


----------



## Pitbullx

pi x radius of port(squared) x length of port / 1728 will give u the displacement of the port


----------



## Pitbullx

ex. 4" port thats 15" long will displace .11^ft


----------



## themerc

Okay, so you count the air inside the port, I was right... just making sure lol.

What different plugs do you think I should make? By that I mean what tunes?


----------



## Pitbullx

honestly I wouldnt bother with port plugs...... but if you want to do that you should tune one to peak at ur vehicles resonant frequency.... you can use a sealed bos and an spl meter from radio shack to figure that out


----------



## Chubby

Port them sounds alot better imo


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by RollerzChubby_@May 11 2007, 10:04 PM~7885849
> *Port them sounds alot better imo
> *


.....okay?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 11 2007, 07:29 PM~7885013
> *honestly I wouldnt bother with port plugs...... but if you want to do that you should tune one to peak at ur vehicles resonant frequency.... you can use a sealed bos and an spl meter from radio shack to figure that out
> *


Are SPL meters expensive?

When I went on radioshack's website they had a couple for $50 but they only measured up to 126db.


----------



## Pitbullx

you dont need one that will read over 126db for this application.... all you are trying to do is find the loudest frequncy inside your car. Once you know what it is you can tune a box to peak at that freq for spl competitions.


----------



## themerc

Okay, would I be better off just getting one that can read over 126db so I don't have to buy a second one later? Where else can you get them at for pretty cheap?


----------



## Pitbullx

spl meters arent cheap you will be spending 500-1000 for one which isnt a good investment considering you dont compete fulltime....


----------



## themerc

Oh, wow.... yeah lol.


----------



## themerc

So how will I know what tunes to make my ports... make a sealed plug, get a $50 spl meter, try different test tones like 30Hz, 35Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, etc and see which one hits the highest db?


----------



## Pitbullx

do you want a system for daily use or competitions.... the whole pluggin idea is pretty pointless if you dont plan on hitting alot of shows


----------



## themerc

Well I don't know if there are a lot of shows in my area... but I wanted to see if I could even qualify for a show. 

Anybody know if there are a lot of competitions in Jacksonville, Florida?


----------



## Pitbullx

dont bother with the dual tuning and worrying about shows meng..... set everything up for a nice daily system.... port plugs n such are too much work and hassle and probably wont be utilized


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 12 2007, 04:50 PM~7890082
> *dont bother with the dual tuning and worrying about shows meng..... set everything up for a nice daily system.... port plugs n such are too much work and hassle and probably wont be utilized
> *


truf


----------



## themerc

Alright man, then lay it down. What volume and tune should I do


----------



## Pitbullx

Id go with a common chamber box

4.5^ft net
50" port
tuned to 33hz


----------



## themerc

Alright. The box is going to be 43" wide, 14" tall, and 18" deep. One 7"x7" square port needs to be 21.29" long according to winisd... deeper than the box... same with a port 12.5"x4"... it needs to be 20.92" long.

The closest I can get to 50 sq. inches of port is 33 sq. inches... a 6"x5.5" port that's 13.58" long.

If you know how I can do this with a box 18" deep let me know.


----------



## Pitbullx

why does the box have to be 18" deep?


----------



## themerc

Well as you noticed last time with a box 17" tall... the trunk lid didn't close. From the back to the front of the trunk, the sides get shorter and shorter. My old box was 14" tall and the lid closed fine... but it was only 14" deep. I'm afraid if I go farther than 18" even with a box 14" tall the lid won't close.

I'll have to get one of my friends to stand outside the car with my keys while I sit inside the trunk with the lid closed and measure how far down the grooves of the trunk lid hang down.


----------



## Pitbullx

the trunk should close with a 14" tall box... get some accurate measurements


----------



## themerc

Okay I put my old box in the trunk, which is 14" tall and 39" wide. I put it as far forward as physically possible... the front of the box was touching the front of the trunk lol. I closed it, and it closed fine. So I can fit a box 14" tall as forward as I want. 

Now, it will also depend on the width of the box. The 39" box could fit as far forward to touch the front wall, but if it were 43" wide it couldn't (the trunk gets narrower the closer you get to the license plate). If I build a box 43" wide it could be 26" deep max... which brings the sub like 2-3" from the front wall of the trunk... pretty damn close. 

But I suppose that wouldn't really matter because if I'm building a box 14" tall and more than 18" deep, it won't need to be 43" wide... that would give me too much volume... although I do like the look of a box that fills out from left to right as much possible.


So to sum it all up I can build a box 14" tall and move it as far forward as I need to, but if the box is 26" deep it's going to place the sub 2-3" from the front wall of the trunk... with the port firing into the back of the license plate.


----------



## themerc

I've been trying new dimensions on winISD and enclosure volume calculators and I still can't seem to get any significant gains in port area. If I do a box 43"W, 14"T, and 18"D I can do port areas 25-33 sq. inches.


The problem is, the more I increase the depth of the box, the more I decrease the width... which means less space in between the subs for a port.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 13 2007, 12:02 PM~7893465
> *I've been trying new dimensions on winISD and enclosure volume calculators and I still can't seem to get any significant gains in port area. If I do a box 43"W, 14"T, and 18"D I can do port areas 25-33 sq. inches.
> The problem is, the more I increase the depth of the box, the more I decrease the width... which means less space in between the subs for a port.
> *


if your trying to get the 50sqin of port area, and its not looking good for the port to be placed in the center (because of the depth), then why dont you just re-position the port to fire from either the left or the right side of the enclosure (still firing forward though)?


your gonna have to learn that you have to ADAPT when building enclosures... you cant always make them exactly how you want to but you have to learn to figure out the best enclosure given the restrictions you have


----------



## Pitbullx

I gotta run and pickup some shit and Ill come back and help ya out


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@May 13 2007, 02:42 PM~7893985
> *if your trying to get the 50sqin of port area, and its not looking good for the port to be placed in the center (because of the depth), then why dont you just re-position the port to fire from either the left or the right side of the enclosure (still firing forward though)?
> your gonna have to learn that you have to ADAPT when building enclosures... you cant always make them exactly how you want to but you have to learn to figure out the best enclosure given the restrictions you have
> *


I know how to "adapt." It just seemed like everyone felt placing the port in the center was key.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 13 2007, 01:47 PM~7894013
> *I know how to "adapt." It just seemed like everyone felt placing the port in the center was key.
> *



correct... in the center would be better but your telling us the largest port you can fit in the center is 33sqin.. thats far from 50sqin. and since 50sqin is what we're shooting for, then your going to have to fire it from the side so you can run the longer port. unless you want to decrease it to 33sqin which will be a tad more then 16sqin of port per sub (and being that it was suggested and shot down, i know you dont want to do that) you have nothing else to do but fire it from the side. 


its not gonna be horrible or sound like shit if you have it that way. i would prefer in fired from the center but it'll still be fine.


disclaimer: from the side means either far left, or far right of the front panel with the port firing in the same direction as the subs


----------



## themerc

Or I could have a portion of the port stick out of the box lol...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 13 2007, 02:00 PM~7894082
> *Or I could have a portion of the port stick out of the box lol...
> *


you know what... why not

if it doesnt stick to far out from the front panel then take some chopped mat, and resin, and make it flow back in to the enclosure (take your fist and put it under your shirt and push outwards... pretend your fist is the port and your shirt is the enclosure... make that effect). use body filler to smooth it out, sand it nice and you just had your first crack at fiberglass...


----------



## themerc

box: 41" wide x 20" deep (not including port) x 14" tall

box continued: 4.5 cubes tuned to 33 Hz

port: 12.5" tall x 4" wide x 20.75" long (50 sq. inches of port)


^would be quite interesting I must say lol...

or the basic box from page 13...










box: 43" wide x 18" deep x 14" tall

box continued: 4.5 cubes tuned to 33 Hz

port: 12.5" tall x 4" wide x 20.75" long (50 sq. inches of port)


----------



## Pitbullx

40w x 14h x 22d = 5.71^ft gross

12.5h x 4w x 21.75l = 32.126hz

.87 port displ
.16 sub displ (iirc)

4.68^ft net 
2.34 ^ft per sub

use a 3/4" piece of mdf to seperate the subs and cut the middle out leave an area about 2" deep and you have your brace... run the port down either side of the enclosure and you are set


----------



## themerc

Well that's basically what it would look like... drew it on paint (poorman's photoshop)


----------



## themerc

I tried 4.5 cubes tuned to 40 Hz for kicks... looks like a pretty smooth response curve. 

I could make the box 43" wide, 18.75" deep, 14" tall and make the port 12.5" tall, 4" wide, and 12.25" long... in the center.

Here's 4.5 cubes tuned to 33 Hz...


----------



## themerc

Well I got my distribution blocks. The power block is fine... but the ground block was wrong...

The website says:

Features

* Platinum finish
* (1) 1/0 gauge or 4 gauge inputs
* (3) 1/0 gauge or 4 gauge outputs
* Custom tooled solid brass
* Flexible for use with multiple wire sizes
* HPP plating for superior corrosion resistance

...well it's (2) 1/0 gauge or 4 gauge outputs, not (3)... so I have to return it.


----------



## themerc

And I think I'm going to go with 4.5 cubes @ 40 Hz...


box: 43" wide, 18.75" deep, 14" tall (4.56 cubes after sub and port displacement)

port: 12.5" tall, 4" wide, and 12.25" long (in the center)


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 14 2007, 03:23 PM~7901126
> *And I think I'm going to go with 4.5 cubes @ 40 Hz...
> box: 43" wide, 18.75" deep, 14" tall (4.56 cubes after sub and port displacement)
> 
> port: 12.5" tall, 4" wide, and 12.25" long (in the center)
> *


40hz :barf:

kiss any sort of deep low bass goodbye and you better use a ssf or you are going to smoke those subs


----------



## themerc

An ssf?

I know someone with a box tuned to 40 hz and he said the lows were still good. He also said with 4.5 cubes of volume my lows will still be there.


----------



## Pitbullx

subsonic filter

and you must not know that output in a ported box drops of extremely steep right below tuning frequency... that box would sound nice with rock and some rap, but anything with low deep notes it wont handle


----------



## themerc

Both my amps have subsonic filters...

what about 37 Hz?


----------



## themerc

The f3 on 33 Hz tune is 30.47 Hz
The f3 on 35 Hz tune is 31.33 Hz
The f3 on 37 Hz tune is 32.22 Hz
The f3 on 40 Hz tune is 33.75 Hz


----------



## Pitbullx

id tune to between 30-35hz


----------



## Brahma Brian

Heh, the last box I ran was tuned to 26 and peaked 29 in my Burban...


----------



## themerc

4.55 cubes after sub and port displacement tuned to 35 Hz


----------



## themerc

Wait. What if I did 2 ports, both 12.5"x2"... one on the left side and one on the right side, with the subs in between? That way I could just do an easy L shaped port along the sides/back wall no matter what tune.

like this...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 14 2007, 06:41 PM~7902552
> *Heh, the last box I ran was tuned to 26 and peaked 29 in my Burban...
> *


ur holdin out on teh installage...

the 80 is tuned to 28hz I dont know wtf it peaks tho


----------



## BigLinc

is it me or are you going over and over the same things basicly?


anyways, i finally had my homie but my truck on the term lab with 2 memphis PR 12`s in a sealed box, 137.3 peaked at 60hz :uh: im about done with this sealed box, think im going to lift the seat in my ext cab and get a nice ported box in there, i guess im not doing bad for the minimal equipment


----------



## themerc

Alright, so is doing 2 ports, both 12.5"x2", fine?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 15 2007, 08:04 AM~7906717
> *Alright, so is doing 2 ports, both 12.5"x2", fine?
> *



go for it...

might as well put a center divider in there for a brace since your using two ports anyways..


----------



## themerc

Alright I'm going to build this box to 4.5 cubes and 35 Hz. That's it. My last question is should I do single chamber with 2 ports or 2 chambers with 1 port each?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 15 2007, 08:27 AM~7906794
> *Alright I'm going to build this box to 4.5 cubes and 35 Hz. That's it. My last question is should I do single chamber with 2 ports or 2 chambers with 1 port each?
> *



lol

i hate you...

33-35 and do a two chamber since your using 2 ports... the center divider will act as a brace for that large enclosure. or do what you want, you've been doing that anyways lol


----------



## themerc

lol I've got like 5 different opinions on different websites plus my own opinion... it gets difficult.


----------



## themerc

Alright I took the 60 rms 5x7's out of the front doors and put them in the rear deck for some rear fill (sorry Brian  ). I'm going to hook those up to the headunit (getting 18 rms each) and the 5.25" components in the front doors/pillars are going to be hooked up to the kicker 350.2 (getting 110 rms each). I'm going to fade it to the front a little bit. I have a question though...

My head unit has bass control for the subs, bass control for the speakers, treble control for the speakers, and fade front/back... is there any way to set the bass/treble level for just the front speakers or just the rear speakers?


----------



## Brahma Brian

:angry:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 17 2007, 07:35 PM~7926132
> *:angry:
> *


lol can't help it man. I know all the reasons why we should only have front speakers... but it just sounds weird to me without a little rear fill. So do you know what I can do about the control settings?


----------



## hearse

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 17 2007, 06:38 PM~7926160
> *lol can't help it man. I know all the reasons why we should only have front speakers... but it just sounds weird to me without a little rear fill. So do you know what I can do about the control settings?
> *


my hearse only came with fron speakers so its what im use too. dash and subs


----------



## Pitbullx

2 ports
seperate chambers
round the edges over with a router


----------



## hearse

is there anything wrong with using flared ports and pvc?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by hearse_@May 17 2007, 08:11 PM~7926405
> *is there anything wrong with using flared ports and pvc?
> *


Depends who you ask lol.


----------



## hearse

ya i hate that :tears:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 17 2007, 08:03 PM~7926351
> *2 ports
> seperate chambers
> round the edges over with a router
> *


Yeah that's what I'm doing... except rounding the edges with a sander... I don't have a router.

Right now I have no backseat, no rear deck, and no door panels... I want to finish this shit lol. My package (components) was scheduled to arrive tomorrow, but the tracking says it was delayed because of a natural disaster, so who knows. My ground distribution block is on it's way back to cardomain because they sent me one with the wrong outputs. I also need to order mini-anl fuses online... I called ace hardware, advance auto parts, circuit city, best buy, daddyo's discount stereo, rollin' sound, sound advice, radioshack, etc. and no one has them.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by hearse_@May 17 2007, 07:11 PM~7926405
> *is there anything wrong with using flared ports and pvc?
> *


aero ports work great in applications where theres not alot of space for port area


----------



## hearse

i have room but i like the thought of doin it the areo port way. i know i cant really fuck it up as bad as attempting a slot port. and do u have to have flares on both sides?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by hearse_@May 17 2007, 07:55 PM~7926738
> *i have room but i like the thought of doin it the areo port way. i know i cant really fuck it up as bad as attempting a slot port. and do u have to have flares on both sides?
> *


u will need at least 2 6" aeroports


----------



## themerc

Well tomorrow I'm going to build a box that's 6.1 cubes tuned to 40 Hz with one slot port in between the subs that's got 56.25 sq. inches of port area. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


----------



## hearse

tear it up :thumbsup:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 21 2007, 12:48 AM~7945373
> *Well tomorrow I'm going to build a box that's 6.1 cubes tuned to 40 Hz with one slot port in between the subs that's got 56.25 sq. inches of port area. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
> *


u fear low bass


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 21 2007, 04:47 PM~7949481
> *u fear low bass
> *


28-32 for a daily pounder, ALWAYS!  

Except me, 26 is my number... :cheesy:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 21 2007, 06:12 PM~7950027
> *28-32 for a daily pounder, ALWAYS!
> 
> Except me, 26 is my number...  :cheesy:
> *


install ur chit or ban!
:angry: :biggrin: 

I never tune above 35 for daily 28-33 is teh norm


----------



## themerc

I'm trying 6.1 cubes at 40 Hz. I had a guy on another site design the box this time with bassbox pro. Last time I did 3 cubes at 32 Hz with 25 sq. inches of port for one 12 and everyone said that was way too much volume and port but it sounded great... consider this an experiment.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 22 2007, 12:31 AM~7953373
> *I'm trying 6.1 cubes at 40 Hz.  I had a guy on another site design the box this time with bassbox pro. Last time I did 3 cubes at 32 Hz with 25 sq. inches of port for one 12 and everyone said that was way too much volume and port but it sounded great... consider this an experiment.
> *


lol

just build something bro, your worse then my girlfriend...

does this match this? does this go good with my hair? do these shoes... etc


----------



## themerc

Well now my problem isn't the box, but speaker placement. I don't know where to put the tweeters. I'm putting the 5.25"s in the front doors and I had planned on putting the tweeters where the side view mirror attaches to the door because my pillars are too rounded, but now I just read CDT's website... here.

Also, for the crossovers, do I just slide the wire under the metal piece? Or do I need a little ring terminal? 










Should I change that switch to +3 or -3? Or just leave it at 0?










I'm also having a problem mounting these crossovers... I don't think there's any room behind the door panels for them.


----------



## sativa251

hey put some strips of dacron in the corners of that box to clean up the sound nice job though it looks good. :thumbsup: uffin:


----------



## Sporty

yeh, you dont need ring terminals, just curve the wire in the shape of a ring and place the screw through it with the plate and screw it down...

as far as the switch, that changes the relationship of the highs to\ mids... pretty much, put it on 0, play a song, slide it to +3 (notice the difference), slide it to -3(notice the difference, then choose.


----------



## themerc

Alright, do you think the side view mirror tweeter placement is okay?

Oh yeah, (quick story) so my friend came over who has a 1990 jeep commanche (piece with 175k miles). Well his dad had a jvc head unit, jvc cd changer, and jvc speakers put in the doors... or so he thought. My friend told me the drivers side speaker was blown, and the stock speakers in the back of the truck were terrible so he had it all faded to one "jvc" speaker on the passenger side. Well I took the door panels off and found that his dad got ripped off and there were some crappy jensen speakers in the there... which at this point had mud on the cones, pieces of the magnet rusted and falling off, and a bug even crawled out of the tweeter. I decided I'd give him my old 100 rms watt MTX 6x9's I had laying around and no use for. I built some speaker boxes for behind the seats (6x9's wouldn't fit in the doors or the back) out of some scrap MDF and carpet I had lying around and sent the door wires to the back under the carpet and plugged them into the 6x9's... man, what an improvement. Before he couldn't put the volume past 15 without distortion... he put the volume on 35 and there was no distortion... you could feel the 6x9's through the seats. Let's just say he was pleased.



















I also built some baffles for my new 5.25's... (old 6x8 ford baffle on the left)


----------



## Sporty

well look at the big dog finally doing something... glad you didnt ask a million questions on how to make a speaker adapter


----------



## themerc

stfu lol. I ask obvious questions so I learn (and so others reading this can), even if I'm 99% sure I'm doing it right.


----------



## themerc

Little update...

I ran the 16 gauge from the trunk through the doors yesterday and tonight I mounted those adapters to the doors after I finished working on my friend's jeep. 

I'm also working on the amp rack drilling a shitload of 3/4" holes. I'm making it so the wires immediately go into it after coming out of the amp, give it a real clean look. I'll probably put some grommets in the holes after I carpet it. 

I'm waiting for my new ground distribution block to come in. The old one is still on its way back to cardomain in Seattle.

Tomorrow I'm going to run the 1/0 gauge run from the battery to the trunk, then do the big three with the 1/0 gauge. Hopefully I won't have to widen the hole in the firewall for the grommet. Then I might get to building the box... because my friend with the jeep is coming over (only jeep pickup ever made... thank god) and I can use his bed to get the MDF home. Normally I have to take the backseat out of my mom's rav4 and drive with my face in the steering wheel because the seats have to be so far forward.


----------



## themerc

Well...

Today I ran the main amp power wire, the 1/0 gauge. I was able to run it through the passenger side firewall on the battery side of the car and was able to run it all the way to the trunk using only 13.5 feet... in a grand marquis! and 3 of those feet are in the trunk! I was pretty proud of myself lol.

I also hooked up the ANL fuse holder under the hood and did one of the big three lol. I need to get some screws and nuts for the battery negative to ground and engine block to ground. I also relocated the siren for the alarm and covered all alarm wires in stock looking black split loom.

It took me like an hour to get through the firewall... I used the passenger side cuz there was a baseball size hole with a huge rubber stopper in it with a handful of wires going through... well it turns out the rubber thing was 1.5" thick and it took a razor blade and a drill an hour to get a chunk out big enough to run the 1/0 gauge.


----------



## Airborne

I did the big 3 on mine and ran 0 gauge too and it was a bitch, that was on an S10, you had your work cut out for you man. Now you never have to upgrade if you go nuts with the sounds.


----------



## themerc

Alright, I want to install a voltmeter gauge in my car. My car has a digital dashboard that only shows a battery symbol when it's getting low... when the engines on. If the engine is off and the radio is on all the symbols on the dash show up, so I never know when my battery is getting close to death.









(engine off, radio on)









(gauge had in mind)

Now, what do I need to do to wire one of these up?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 23 2007, 09:18 PM~7966384
> *Now, what do I need to do to wire one of these up?
> *


16-18ga wire


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 23 2007, 09:18 PM~7966384
> *If the engine is off and the radio is on all the symbols on the dash show up
> *


Dude, turn the key backwards to listen to the radio, you're gonna screw your coil pack and fuel pump up turning it forward...


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc+May 23 2007, 09:18 PM~7966384-->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (gauge had in mind)
> Now, what do I need to do to wire one of these up?
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-Pitbullx_@May 23 2007, 10:03 PM~7966730
> *16-18ga wire
> *


Wire it to the turn on lead going to the h/u (red wire on h/u) and then ground it is the easiest thing to do...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 23 2007, 11:11 PM~7966777
> *Dude, turn the key backwards to listen to the radio, you're gonna screw your coil pack and fuel pump up turning it forward...
> *


If only I knew what that meant... the reason I turn it forward is because when I turn it back and have the door open it never stops dinging... and I'm working on my car and I need the door open.


----------



## Airborne

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 23 2007, 09:13 PM~7966796
> *If only I knew what that meant... the reason I turn it forward is because when I turn it back and have the door open it never stops dinging... and I'm working on my car and I need the door open.
> *



put a shoe or water bottle by in the door jam.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Airborne_@May 23 2007, 11:18 PM~7966845
> *put a shoe or water bottle by in the door jam.
> *


wtf? lol


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Airborne_@May 23 2007, 10:18 PM~7966845
> *put a shoe or water bottle by in the door jam.
> *


I have all three of these that I use at work...

http://www.thexton.com/vshop/shopexd.asp?id=347&catid=35


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 23 2007, 11:29 PM~7966966
> *I have all three of these that I use at work...
> 
> http://www.thexton.com/vshop/shopexd.asp?id=347&catid=35
> *


Hmm.. interesting. So I'm curious, what exactly happens if you leave the key forward?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 23 2007, 10:32 PM~7966994
> *Hmm.. interesting. So I'm curious, what exactly happens if you leave the key forward?
> *


It has a great potential to mess stuff up...

It's just not a good thing to do...

Thats the WHOLE purpose behind Ford giving you a key back position to listen to the radio...


----------



## themerc

Ah lol. Well those bastards need to make it stop dinging.


----------



## Airborne

I use an old shoe and whater bottles, I had no idea there were tools for this. lol


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Airborne_@May 23 2007, 10:36 PM~7967034
> *I use an old shoe and whater bottles, I had no idea there were tools for this. lol
> *


You would if you were a Service Technician...


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah, now I need to know how to pop the head unit out without breaking anything so I can hook up the second RCA cable.


----------



## Brahma Brian

You'll need to take the trim ring off it and use the keys that should have come with it to release it from the cage so you can slide it out of the kit...

The other option is, take the dash bezel off and unmount the kit...


----------



## themerc

All I found in the box was some wiring, a cuple screws, and 3 rectangular pieces of metal, one of them has holes in it... that's it. Circuit city installed the head unit, so I've never taken it out/put it in before.

I take it this means I need to do the second option. What's the dash bezel?


----------



## themerc

Big three and amp power wire...


----------



## themerc

Today I plan to run the speaker/tweeter wires to the trunk, where I'm going to put the crossovers (on the amp rack), becuase there isnt enough room in the doors. I also want to hookup the other RCA cable to the head unit if I find out how to get it out lol. Then I might start cutting the pieces for the box (I bought MDF yesterday).

So I guess my 2 questions right now are:

How do I get the head unit out? and is side view mirror tweeter placement okay?


----------



## creepin cutty

no hating, nice job just loom that one red cable lol...its bothering me!!!
lol


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 25 2007, 10:31 AM~7976783
> *Today I plan to run the speaker/tweeter wires to the trunk, where I'm going to put the crossovers (on the amp rack), becuase there isnt enough room in the doors. I also want to hookup the other RCA cable to the head unit if I find out how to get it out lol. Then I might start cutting the pieces for the box (I bought MDF yesterday).
> 
> So I guess my 2 questions right now are:
> 
> How do I get the head unit out? and is side view mirror tweeter placement okay?
> *


put the crossovers in the kickpanels....


----------



## themerc

I don't have room in the kickpanels...


How do I get the head unit out?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by creepin cutty_@May 25 2007, 11:33 AM~7976786
> *no hating, nice job just loom that one red cable lol...its bothering me!!!
> lol
> *


Yeah same here. That's a wire for a 7 color LED kit under the car... I didn't install it, and that power wire was hidden inside the split loom of the old 4 gauge amp power wire, but this time I ran the power wire down the passenger side, so I'm going to clean that up... and hopefully get some black zipties... I'm not really diggin the red ones I used.


----------



## silver64

yeah the red ones make it look shitty

no offence black will look alot cleaner


----------



## themerc

Okay, I took the head unit out. Here's what I see. The SW-OUT has the RCA's for one of the 400.1's plugged in. The AUX1-IN has plugs going into as well. The PRE-OUT REAR and PRE-OUT FRONT aren't plugged into anything. 

I'm running an RCA from the head unit to one of the 400.1's, then a short RCA from that 400.1 to the other 400.1...

I need an RCA from the head unit to the 350.2 for the components... do I use pre-out front?


----------



## Airborne

That's what I would do. They are going up front aren't they? If so then that is exactly what I would do.


----------



## themerc

Okay, to connect the two 400.1's I just run a short RCA from the main 400.1's outputs to the other's inputs correct? Just double checking everything.

Oh yeah, so today I mounted the 5.25's, ran the wires to the trunk, ran the tweeter wires to the trunk, and hooked up the RCA cable. Tomorrow I plan to work on the box.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 25 2007, 11:58 PM~7981140
> *Okay, to connect the two 400.1's I just run a short RCA from the main 400.1's outputs to the other's inputs correct? Just double checking everything.
> *


Correct...


----------



## themerc

Okay good. 

Bah, I wish my freakin ground distribution block and mini anl fuses would come in... waiting on them is slowing my progress big time. I can't finish drilling the amp rack until the block comes in, which means I can't carpet it, which means I can't mount and wire up the amps, which means I can't test the components... damn cardomain.


----------



## themerc

Last night my check engine light came on, could that have anything to do with the big three?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 27 2007, 10:18 AM~7987217
> *Last night my check engine light came on, could that have anything to do with the big three?
> *


That just has to do with it being a Ford...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@May 27 2007, 11:28 AM~7987235
> *That just has to do with it being a Ford...
> *


 lol well I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, hooked it back up, started the car, and no check engine light. Hopefully it will stay that way.


----------



## themerc

...well it's back. Looks like I'm going to Advance Auto Parts tomorrow.


----------



## dirtylooks

how did u get the cubic feet??? dont u multiply WxHxD then divid it by 1728=cubic ft????? any in fo is sooo welcomed


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by dirtylooks_@May 28 2007, 12:40 AM~7990694
> *how did u get the cubic feet??? dont u multiply WxHxD then divid it by 1728=cubic ft????? any in fo is sooo welcomed
> *


yes


----------



## themerc

Top...









Bottom...









I have dual straight pipes with no rear cats... I have a feeling this is what's causing the problems with the O2 sensors.


----------



## Pitbullx

no cat, no o2 sensor.... good luck passing inspection


----------



## themerc

I'm in Florida... no inspections :thumbsup:


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 28 2007, 12:55 PM~7992608
> *I have dual straight pipes with no rear cats... I have a feeling this is what's causing the problems with the O2 sensors.
> *


Bank two sensor two is the one after the rear most cat on the passenger side, and if it's gone, thats exactly why it's failing...

They make some gadgets that go on there to fool the computer when you take tha cats off, you'll have to do your own research on that...

Sucks that advances shitty code reader doesn't tell you if its a O2 heater problem or the actual O2 sensor itself...


----------



## themerc

Bah. I think they're called Mil Eliminators... I was hoping I wouldn't need any. They're like $70 on the site I found for crown vic parts.


Well on a better note, I cut all the pieces for my box... Hooray for 1970's table and circle saw.


----------



## themerc

Well I'm definitely getting better at box building. I sanded the edges of the port pieces and put half the box together in 20 minutes before dinner... pre-drilled the holes and put in 2" coarse thread screws as well as wood glue.


----------



## themerc

Well here's what I got done before dinner.










Looked like this before...









Now the port edges are nice and smooth...


















I should be done with the box tomorrow. Feel free to virtually slap me if I'm not.


----------



## themerc

Here's what I've done this morning...




































I'm going to have to attach some small blocks to fit in between the 2 front pieces at the end of the port... then sand it all of course

















I'm trying to decide whether or not I should put 2 braces on the back wall about 4-5" long... perpendicular to the back wall pointing at the center of the sub magnet








So much for clamping...










So what do you think, should I brace it like this?









Or should I add external bracing later if I need it?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 29 2007, 11:57 AM~7999566
> *Here's what I've done this morning...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to have to attach some small blocks to fit in between the 2 front pieces at the end of the port... then sand it all of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide whether or not I should put 2 braces on the back wall about 4-5" long... perpendicular to the back wall pointing at the center of the sub magnet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much for clamping...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think, should I brace it like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or should I add external bracing later if I need it?
> *


eh how long is that port? your shits gonna be tuned high based off the looks of it....


----------



## themerc

Yeah it's tuned to 39 Hz. And I don't want to hear any crap like it only sounds good when it's 33 Hz. I'm experimenting with 39 Hz.

It's 6.21 cubes tuned to 39 Hz with 56.25 sq. inches of port. The f3 is 31.5 Hz. 

The f3 of 4.5 cubes at 33 Hz is 30.5 Hz.


----------



## themerc

I think I'm going to brace it like that with some 4-5" pieces... I'll sand the edges like I did on the port. Sound good?


----------



## bigbearlocos

> _Originally posted by dirtylooks_@May 27 2007, 10:40 PM~7990694
> *how did u get the cubic feet??? dont u multiply WxHxD then divid it by 1728=cubic ft????? any in fo is sooo welcomed
> *


try this..

http://www.darkscience.com.au/caraudiohowto/slotcalc/


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by bigbearlocos_@May 29 2007, 09:21 PM~8002754
> *try this..
> 
> http://www.darkscience.com.au/caraudiohowto/slotcalc/
> *


Do you even know what you're talking about. You just sent him a port calculator when he asked how to figure out volume. :uh:


----------



## themerc

Guys, bracing?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 29 2007, 05:17 PM~8001630
> *Yeah it's tuned to 39 Hz. And I don't want to hear any crap like it only sounds good when it's 33 Hz. I'm experimenting with 39 Hz.
> 
> It's 6.21 cubes tuned to 39 Hz with 56.25 sq. inches of port. The f3 is 31.5 Hz.
> 
> The f3 of 4.5 cubes at 33 Hz is 30.5 Hz.
> *


calm ur overly sensitive ass down :twak:

I didnt say it would sound like crap, I am telling you that your low bass will be lacking, the sound will boomy, and the transients wont be all that great....

depending on your music tastes and listening habits this box may work out great or it may be shit u just gotta see


----------



## Pitbullx

use triangular cut pieces of mdf as braces or buy some threaded rod from HD


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@May 29 2007, 11:41 PM~8004057
> *use triangular cut pieces of mdf as braces
> *


For the corners?


----------



## thuglifeballin

damn box aint done yet? when did you start like mid december :uh:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by thuglifeballin_@May 30 2007, 12:28 AM~8004403
> *damn box aint done yet? when did you start like mid december :uh:
> *


Yesterday moron.


----------



## thuglifeballin

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Dec 15 2006, 06:11 PM~6767377
> *Well I've never built a box before...sealed or ported, and I started building this box about a week ago. It's going to house a single kicker cvr12 and I'm powering it with a kicker zx400.1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (designed box plan)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (test fit...no glue or screws)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (test fit)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (mistake number 1...NOTE: always predrill the full length of the screw being used)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (bottom face up...mistake number 2, NOTE: bottom right corner...don't let screws collide)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (elmers wood glue and 2" square drive coarse thread screws)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sealing up interior seams with 100% silicone...not the cleanest job)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (spray paint inside of port...mistake number 3, NOTE: paint doesn't stick to silicone)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (top face up...screw down and glue port walls)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (bottom face up...carpet box)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (attach carpet squares on ends)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (squares attached)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (all carpeted...but haven't cut out port hole in carpet on left side)
> 
> I'll try to keep posting as I go. Hopefully people considering to build a ported box will see the little rookie mistakes. All of them were fixable, but also avoidable.
> *


 :uh: damn 2 years later and the box still aint done yet :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by thuglifeballin_@May 30 2007, 12:30 AM~8004428
> *:uh: damn 2 years later and the box still aint done yet :biggrin:
> *


I hope you're being sarcastic. That was my first box. I'm working on my third box in this topic.


----------



## thuglifeballin

> _Originally posted by themerc_@May 29 2007, 09:31 PM~8004443
> *I hope you're being sarcastic. That was my first box. I'm working on my third box in this topic.
> *


im just joking niggra! :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by thuglifeballin_@May 30 2007, 12:33 AM~8004458
> *im just joking niggra! :biggrin:
> *


Thank god lol.


----------



## themerc

Do you guys think I'll even need bracing?


----------



## themerc

Alright screw it. A 1.25" thick dowel rod is like 9 bucks. I'll just cut up an old broom handle and use that for bracing.


----------



## themerc

Well I ended up bracing it like this with 3.25" pieces










All I have left to do is a little sanding, spray paint the port, and carpet it. I'll be done with the box and post pictures up tonight.


----------



## themerc

I made myself take the time to sand those brace edges like the port.



































Attaching those blocks at the end of the port was a pain in the ass. I tried to glue and screw them in place but I split like 5 of them... even with only 1 screw and predrilling. Then I tried a tiny finishing nail... same thing. I ended up making them a tiny bit too big and rubber hammering them in, and I used glue of course.

All I have left to do is sand the port, spray paint the port black, then carpet it. 

I was wondering... have any of you guys tried little LEDs inside the box to give a faint blue glue out the port?


----------



## WhitePapi2006

damn that looks goood


----------



## J-VO

> _Originally posted by WhitePapi2006_@May 30 2007, 08:54 PM~8011032
> *damn that looks goood
> *


homey u still wanna paint ur car?


----------



## WhitePapi2006

> _Originally posted by bigmonneyjay71_@May 30 2007, 07:59 PM~8011072
> *homey u still wanna paint ur car?
> *


i need my car painted i am in central FL


----------



## creepin cutty

did u predrill?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by creepin cutty_@May 31 2007, 09:40 AM~8013781
> *did u predrill?
> *


yeah


----------



## themerc

Amp rack in progress. It looks like crap now but it should look pretty nice when I'm done.








Port after sanding and first coat of paint. 








Here's my door. The blue circle marks where the 5.25" speaker is going behind the grille. The red circles mark possible spots for the tweeter. Where do you guys think I should put it?








Here's a picture of the control portion of the 15 dollar DMM I bought. Now, what exactly do I need to do to match the amp gains? The directions for this thing blow.


----------



## themerc

Carpetting process.










Dropped the subs in for a preview.


----------



## superdodge2196

that setup is going to rattle your eyeballs! uffin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@May 31 2007, 09:23 PM~8018423
> *that setup is going to rattle your eyeballs! uffin:
> *


I sure hope so :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

Where should I put the tweeter? Will there even be a noticable difference between those 3 spots?


----------



## silver64

id want it as high as possible on the door


----------



## themerc

Alright, unless anyone has any objections I think I'm going to mount the tweeter flush-mounted in the sail panel/side view mirror portion of the door panel (the top one).


----------



## thuglifeballin

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 2 2007, 09:48 AM~8028231
> *Alright, unless anyone has any objections I think I'm going to mount the tweeter flush-mounted in the sail panel/side view mirror portion of the door panel (the top one).
> *


i think it would sound better if you put it in your butt! :0


----------



## The Scientist

It's best to put your tweeter as close to your mids to get the best range.  When you have the tweeter really far from the mid-range you lose the fullness of the music.


----------



## thuglifeballin

> _Originally posted by The Scientist_@Jun 2 2007, 10:06 AM~8028279
> *It's best to put your tweeter as close to your mids to get the best range.   When you have the tweeter really far from the mid-range you lose the fullness of the music.
> *


 :uh:


----------



## OldDirty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 1 2007, 01:42 PM~8023134
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where should I put the tweeter? Will there even be a noticable difference between those 3 spots?
> *


Best place to put your tweeters would be to put them on your a-pillars just above your dash facing the windshield.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by OldDirty_@Jun 2 2007, 05:20 PM~8029089
> *Best place to put your tweeters would be to put them on your a-pillars just above your dash facing the windshield.
> *


Can't. My pillars are too rounded and I've already got my alarm LED in the spot I'd want them.


----------



## themerc

Brian, Pit, Sporty, what do you think, should I put them in the sail panels?


----------



## k gee™

They wont fit under the speaker grille?

If not, Id say the middle because its pretty dumb to cut up some nice woodgrain IMO

Or on the outside of the speaker grille?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by k gee™_@Jun 2 2007, 07:39 PM~8029594
> *They wont fit under the speaker grille?
> 
> If not, Id say the middle because its pretty dumb to cut up some nice woodgrain IMO
> 
> Or on the outside of the speaker grille?
> *


Well there are 5.25's behind the speaker grilles, and the tweeters already have their own grilles on them, so I wouldn't want to put them behind two grilles. I suppose I could mount them on the speaker grilles in like the corner but I don't think it would look very good.


----------



## thuglifeballin

i think theyd look real classy if u cut a hole on that wood grain and mount them flush in there


----------



## thuglifeballin

or hide them behind that lil grill?


----------



## themerc

Alright check this out.









That's what it would look like if I surface mounted it.









Surface mounted again.









There's the flush mount cup sitting upside down on the sail panel. As you can see it's too big and this won't work.









I could flush mount there.









I could flush mount there, or surface mount if I wanted to.









I could flush mount there, or surface mount, or angle surface mount.









Angle surface mount.




This what flush mount looks like...


----------



## WhitePapi2006

damn i do not really know ig got mines in my front pillars


----------



## BLACK CHERRY

go to fiberglass pictures forum and see how i did mine it was'nt that bad i did it all in a weekend and paint..


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by BLACK CHERRY_@Jun 2 2007, 10:32 PM~8030278
> *go to fiberglass pictures forum and see how i did mine it was'nt that bad i did it all in a weekend and paint..
> *


Kick panels? How much would it cost to make them assuming I don't have any "connections"?


----------



## BLACK CHERRY

had had about 50 bucks into it


----------



## themerc

I don't know, maybe later down the road I'll make some kicks, but right now I just want to finish this project. My distribution block comes Tuesday so I can finished the amp rack and wire everything up and be done Tuesday.


----------



## BLACK CHERRY

did you check out my pics..... what do you think


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 3 2007, 11:10 AM~8032289
> *Oh yeah, so yesterday during one of our lovely Florida tropical storms I was sitting in the car with the engine off and I could hear water dripping inside the front doors where I haven't put the panels back on yet. I need something to protect the speakers. I was thinking about getting these. Or I could get the 5x7 size to put some more air around the speakers. (5x7/6x8 is the stock speaker size in my doors.)
> *


I'd do the 5x7 baffles in there if I were you with components that nice...


----------



## themerc

Alright, the only thing left is setting up my amps when the ground distribution block comes.
Here is my DMM that didn't come with good instructions.








How do I match the amp gains on my two 400.1's?


What should the crossover frequencies be on the 400.1's powering the subs?
What should the crossover frequency on the 350.2 powering the components be?
On the 350.2 it has a button that says crossover frequency... off, hi, lo... what should I set it on?
And I want the subsonic filters on for the 400.1's correct?


----------



## Brahma Brian

Those amps have an adjustable input sensitivity of 125mv - 5v

Your Panasonic h/u should have a 4v sub pre-out...

My suggestion is to leave the gains on both amps ALL the way down...

Set the crossover on the sub amps at 80Hz and the sub sonic at 25Hz

Set the crossover on the 350.2 on "hi" and 80Hz...


----------



## themerc

Alright, I assume I should leave the bass boosts on all 3 amps all the way down. On the 350.2 how should I set the gain?


My subsonic filters on the 400.1's aren't adjustable, just on or off, but I believe they're 25 Hz so I'm set there.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 3 2007, 07:20 PM~8034022
> *Alright, I assume I should leave the bass boosts on all 3 amps all the way down. On the 350.2 how should I set the gain?
> My subsonic filters on the 400.1's aren't adjustable, just on or off, but I believe they're 25 Hz so I'm set there.
> *


Yup, bass boost is just a distortion adder...

Start with the gain on the highs amp all the way down...

Make your adjustments in the h/u...

This is if your h/u is all 4v pre-outs, check that first...

If you do it this way, you will have a dependable clean sounding daily setup that wont burn shit up...


----------



## themerc

Bah. The mod on another site said...

"This is kind of a pain. Set your meter to read AC. The V with the curved line. 200-volt scale.

Next we need a single test tone (sine wave anything between 60-80Hz will do). The voltage will change if we use music making adjusting impossible.

Turn bass boosts down, turn everything down. Set crossovers on both amps near the same point. Turn your system on and set the gain on one of the amps using only the test tone. Measure the voltage on the speaker leads of that amp. Remember the voltage.

Hook the meter to the other amp, adjust the gain till the voltage matches the first amp. Go back to the first amp, set the bass boost, then measure the voltage. Hook back to the second amp and adjust the bass boost until the voltage matches the first amp again.

Do only one adjustment at a time and if you are within a volt you are close enough. Voltage will change with different tones, so use only one tone to make the adjustments."


----------



## Brahma Brian

My way is easier and fool proof...


----------



## themerc

Am I going to get full power/loudness?

So even though one amp is like 433 watts and the other is 476, I can leave the amp gains and bass boosts at 0 and I'll be fine using my headunit bass control from -6 to +6?


----------



## themerc

Here's my headunit.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 3 2007, 08:13 PM~8034353
> *Here's my headunit.
> *


Pre-Amp Outputs (Front/Rear/Subwoofer) Yes, dual outputs (2V/200 ohms) 
Subwoofer Output Level/Impedance 2V/200 ohms

You're gonna have to turn gains up, it isn't rocket science...


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 3 2007, 07:57 PM~8034274
> *Am I going to get full power/loudness?
> 
> So even though one amp is like 433 watts and the other is 476, I can leave the amp gains and bass boosts at 0 and I'll be fine using my headunit bass control from -6 to +6?
> *


Go for whatever you want, the birth sheets that came with the amps are b/s sheets...

Get the stuff in, everything turned down and adjust up from there...

That's the only way you are gonna learn...

me = sleep now


----------



## themerc

Alright here's my plan.



Remove ANL fuse at battery.

Hookup all wires, RCA's last.

Unplug 350.2 RCA's.

Set crossover frequency of all amps to 80 Hz.

Turn on 400.1 subsonic filters.

Turn 350.2 crossover to "hi."

Replace ANL fuse at battery.

Turn on stereo and set headunit EQ to flat and bass to 0.

Put in test tone CD.

Put volume to 2/3.

Play sine wave.

Set gain of first 400.1.

Measure voltage.

Set gain of second 400.1, matching voltage.

Set bass boost of first 400.1.

Measure voltage.

Set bass boost of second 400.1, matching voltage.

Remove CD and turn off stereo.

Remove ANL fuse at battery.

Plug in 350.2 RCA's.

Replace ANL fuse at battery.

Turn on stereo and play music.

Set gain of 350.2.

Adjust switch on crossovers (-3, 0, +3) to what sounds best.


----------



## themerc

Well I called the local stereo shop about the foam baffles. He said when he uses them they end up crumbling after they get wet and dry repeatedly. He said just use some plastic bags, so I'll probably use some big ziplock bags... as apposed to grocery store bags, those would probably make noise.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 5 2007, 10:51 AM~8044881
> *Well I called the local stereo shop about the foam baffles. He said when he uses them they end up crumbling after they get wet and dry repeatedly. He said just use some plastic bags, so I'll probably use some big ziplock bags... as apposed to grocery store bags, those would probably make noise.
> *


:roflmao:

this will be interesting


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 5 2007, 07:43 PM~8047958
> *:roflmao:
> 
> this will be interesting
> *


What's your solution


----------



## themerc

Well I finished my amp rack...


----------



## Sporty

well, that came out nice.. and you got the lil grommets... good job


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jun 5 2007, 11:18 PM~8049570
> *well, that came out nice.. and you got the lil grommets... good job
> *


Yeah I'm doing some of the wiring right now. I'll take a pic when I'm done doing all the wiring on the amp rack that I can...without my car.

I plan to setup the system tomorrow. It should all be done except maybe the tweeters in the woodgrain. Hard to say.


----------



## themerc

Not even half the wiring... I think it's going to look pretty good when it's done... considering it's only MDF, felt, and grommets.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 6 2007, 12:15 AM~8050417
> *Not even half the wiring... I think it's going to look pretty good when it's done... considering it's only MDF, felt, and grommets.
> *


lol, only the MOST COMMON materials used to create amp racks  

you'll start noticing stuff is alot more simple then you see it now... and dont even reply with "i know things are simple" because we're on page 31, and only got about 20 build pics, and the rest is question and answer.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jun 6 2007, 09:56 AM~8051547
> *lol, only the MOST COMMON materials used to create amp racks
> 
> you'll start noticing stuff is alot more simple then you see it now... and dont even reply with "i know things are simple" because we're on page 31, and only got about 20 build pics, and the rest is question and answer.
> *


Yeah lol, that's what I'm saying, it's nothing special. Anyone can build one.


What do you mean I'll start noticing stuff is alot more simple than I see it now?


----------



## themerc

Well I got it all setup besides putting the tweeters in the doors. It sounded extremely loud. My friend put a full water bottle on the trunk lid and it was jumping off the lid a few inches in the air. The airflow coming out of the port was insane. My friend who lives 1/4 mile away said he could feel it at the dinner table. My other friend across the street said he could hear it in the shower... and then they both came over to check it out lol.

I need to readjust my sub amp gains/bass boosts though. They're turned up too high right now... I got a little carried away.


----------



## themerc

Alright I adjusted the amps. The 350.2 mids/highs amp has the gain set at about 60% and the bass boost at 0%. The 400.1 sub amps have the gains set at about 50-60% and the bass boosts at about 30%. The voltage at the speaker leads when I was matching the amps was 20.0 volts when I was done.

Hey does anyone know a song with a bunch of 50 Hz beats? I played a 10 second 50 Hz clip and it was insane lol.


----------



## Sporty

glad its done.. god knows you road break this whole project....

congrats regardless


----------



## themerc




----------



## Sporty

damn!

i didnt realize how deep your enclosure was... i kinda though you would put the amp rack in front instead of hiding it being that you went through the trouble, but now that i see how deep your enclosure is, i see why you did it how ya did it...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jun 13 2007, 10:37 PM~8100010
> *damn!
> 
> i didnt realize how deep your enclosure was... i kinda though you would put the amp rack in front instead of hiding it being that you went through the trouble, but now that i see how deep your enclosure is, i see why you did it how ya did it...
> *


Yeah, 14" tall, 43" wide.... and 24" deep lol. I don't like how the amp rack is hidden after all that work, but unless I ditch my spare tire and the false floor, there isn't much else I can do.


----------



## Sporty

nah, its best you keep it where it is, you dont want that massive ass enclosure pressed against your rear seats and rear deck... best where its at now


----------



## themerc

Yeah, well I want to get a new car in about a year right before I go off to college, something less "noticeable."

I can't decide what to get.


----------



## Airborne

looks great man! I'll bet it hurts.


----------



## LIL Mafia

It would have costed about the same if you had gotten a zx1000.1 instead of 2 400.1s and more wattage


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by ellomynameissimon_@Jun 14 2007, 09:20 PM~8106610
> *It would have costed about the same if you had gotten a zx1000.1 instead of 2 400.1s and more wattage
> *


He already had one of them, stay with the thread...


----------



## LIL Mafia

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jun 14 2007, 09:38 PM~8106725
> *He already had one of them, stay with the thread...
> *



i skipped a few pages


----------



## themerc

Is there a way to strap my kicker ZX amps? Would this work? Or did I misunderstand the purpose of it.


----------



## Sporty

only thing i question is how would you determine the stable ohm load if your amps werent built to be daisychained together...


for example, you have company A amps that have a master and slave option... in the specs, each amplifier is stable down to 1ohm, but when 2 are coupled/daisychained/strapped it will be stable at 2ohms...


if you take two of the same amp that werent ment to be strapped, how would you figure out at which ohm load they'll be stable?


----------



## themerc

I have no idea.



Well today I put the finishing touches on my sub amps. I turned the engine on and set my headunit to 3/4 volume and the bass to +6. I put in a test tone cd and played a 70 Hz tone. I used the DMM to match the amp gains and bass boosts. I got the amps to match at 28.3 volts, which should be 400 watts. The gains are at about 50-60% and the bass boosts are at about 50%.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 12:06 PM~8120984
> *I have no idea.
> Well today I put the finishing touches on my sub amps. I turned the engine on and set my headunit to 3/4 volume and the bass to +6. I put in a test tone cd and played a 70 Hz tone. I used the DMM to match the amp gains and bass boosts. I got the amps to match at 28.3 volts, which should be 400 watts. The gains are at about 50-60% and the bass boosts are at about 50%.
> *


you like distortion and blown subs?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 17 2007, 02:20 PM~8121284
> *you like distortion and blown subs?
> *


I put it to +6 on the headunit so I can never turn it past its max by accident. I don't listen to it that high. I listen to it at 0. I didn't hear any distortion.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 05:36 PM~8122187
> *I put it to +6 on the headunit so I can never turn it past its max by accident. I don't listen to it that high. I listen to it at 0. I didn't hear any distortion.
> *


u should have set ur gains with the bass boost off...... if your isht isnt loud enough without any bass boost you need better equipment


----------



## themerc

So would it be better to have the gain at like 75% and no bass boost vs. gain at 50% and bass boost at 50%?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 05:45 PM~8122221
> *So would it be better to have the gain at like 75%  and no bass boost vs. gain at 50% and bass boost at 50%?
> *


as long as your signal isnt clipped you can have it as high as you want


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 17 2007, 06:57 PM~8122263
> *as long as your signal isnt clipped you can have it as high as you want
> *


Okay sweet, how will I know when it's clipped?


----------



## themerc

Oh yeah, I know this is pretty hypothetical, but what db range would you guys expect my system to hit at?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 08:35 PM~8123036
> *Oh yeah, I know this is pretty hypothetical, but what db range would you guys expect my system to hit at?
> *



dont do that... never do that. just find someone with a TL or AC90, get metered, and call it a day.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jun 17 2007, 09:47 PM~8123134
> *dont do that... never do that. just find someone with a TL or AC90, get metered, and call it a day.
> *


lol what needs to happen to make sure it's 100% legit?


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 08:48 PM~8123141
> *lol what needs to happen to make sure it's 100% legit?
> *


you mean your score>? well you say where you placed the mic and what you scored @ what frequency..

example:

155db at the kick on a TL @ 40hz
133db legal on dash on a AC90 @ 30hz

if you google up meca metering instructions, or iasca metering instructions (or something similar) it will give you the steps they go through to obtain reality scores, drive by spl scores, etc


----------



## themerc

Okay, I'll call up the local shop and see if they have a meter. Hey how do I know if my amps are clipping? And what exactly is clipping?


----------



## Sporty

i was looking to see if bcae1.com had a good explanation but i couldnt find it...

clipping is when you clip the signal... in a nut shell, its when you try to make your amplifier produce more then it was designed to.. by doing that, you start sending dc current instead of ac current (causing burnt voice coils)... clipping can be mistaken for distortion but both are bad so if you notice it, come down off the volume...

alot of ppl melt their drivers because they dont realize that if your HU have 5v preamp outputs, theres no reason the gain on your amp should be journeying past that half point in common conditions.

if you set your gain (and if you insist to use it) your bass boost correctly to your HU's preamp voltage, you should be completey fine if your mindful of what your doing. remember, not every track is recorded at the same level so keep that in mind too


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jun 17 2007, 10:15 PM~8123302
> *i was looking to see if bcae1.com had a good explanation but i couldnt find it...
> 
> clipping is when you clip the signal... in a nut shell, its when you try to make your amplifier produce more then it was designed to.. by doing that, you start sending dc current instead of ac current (causing burnt voice coils)... clipping can be mistaken for distortion but both are bad so if you notice it, come down off the volume...
> 
> alot of ppl melt their drivers because they dont realize that if your HU have 5v preamp outputs, theres no reason the gain on your amp should be journeying past that half point in common conditions.
> 
> if you set your gain (and if you insist to use it) your bass boost correctly to your HU's preamp voltage, you should be completey fine if your mindful of what your doing. remember, not every track is recorded at the same level so keep that in mind too
> *


I looked in my headunit manual. It says the subwoofer-output voltage is 2V. So what does this suggest?


----------



## LIL Mafia

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 10:51 PM~8123539
> *I looked in my headunit manual. It says the subwoofer-output voltage is 2V. So what does this suggest?
> *



y do u keep on asking the SAME question over and over? Brahama clearley said u need to turn ur gain up, bass boost ONLY adds distortion and only boosts one frequency, all the other freqs are the same.

now for the serious part, take it to a shop and tell them to set it up(gains,etc..) up for u, it might be free it might be $5


----------



## LIL Mafia

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian+Jun 3 2007, 07:24 PM~8034059-->
> 
> 
> 
> *Yup, bass boost is just a distortion adder...*[/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-Brahma Brian_@Jun 3 2007, 10:08 PM~8035043
> *Pre-Amp Outputs (Front/Rear/Subwoofer)    Yes, dual outputs (2V/200 ohms)
> Subwoofer Output Level/Impedance  2V/200 ohms
> 
> You're gonna have to turn gains up, it isn't rocket science...
> *


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by ellomynameissimon_@Jun 17 2007, 10:57 PM~8123588
> *y do u keep on asking the SAME question over and over? Brahama clearley said u need to turn ur gain up, bass boost ONLY adds distortion and only boosts one frequency, all the other freqs are the same.
> 
> now for the serious part, take it to a shop and tell them to set it up(gains,etc..) up for u, it might be free it might be $5
> *


Sporty said headunits with 5V preouts shouldn't have gains past halfway. My headunit has 2V preouts. I wanted to know how far I should expect to go with 2V preouts. Thank you for your awesome advice- "turn ur gain up"-that helps.

Pit said "as long as your signal isnt clipped you can have it as high as you want". I want to know if having 2V preouts means I have a chance of turning it up almost all the way without clipping.

400 watts at 2 ohms should give 28.3 volts. If I'm getting 28.3 volts at the speaker leads then am I safe? I mean these amps are designed to power 400 watts, and that's 400 watts...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 10:11 PM~8123661
> *Sporty said headunits with 5V preouts shouldn't have gains past halfway. My headunit has 2V preouts. I wanted to know how far I should expect to go with 2V preouts. Thank you for your awesome advice- "turn ur gain up"-that helps.
> 
> Pit said "as long as your signal isnt clipped you can have it as high as you want". I want to know if having 2V preouts means I have a chance of turning it up almost all the way without clipping.
> 
> 400 watts at 2 ohms should give 28.3 volts. If I'm getting 28.3 volts at the speaker leads then am I safe? I mean these amps are designed to power 400 watts, and that's 400 watts...
> *


lets say your HU goes to 40, and you set your gains so that 28.3v is read across your leads when your HU is turned to 35 on a 60hz test tone @ 0. after your all done, the most you want to turn your HU up to is 32. But as i said, you have to remember diff. tracks will have a higher level mix then others so for some songs you might can get to 34 with ZERO distortion, some songs you might only be able to get to 30 with ZERO distortion.

so im sure now the question is, how do i know if i should go only up to 30 or only up to 32 or only up to...

if your turning your volume up, and you notice your bass isnt getting any louder as you approach 35, and lets say at this point your on 34, back it down to 32 and let that be your max for that track or cd.

thats why i say you have to be aware of what your doing on every track because if you dont you will fuck yourself if your trying to turn your shit up on every song


----------



## LIL Mafia

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 17 2007, 11:11 PM~8123661
> *Thank you for your awesome advice- "turn ur gain up"-that helps.*


 :uh:  :uh:


----------



## themerc

Alright, very strange but good...

I started from the beginning again. Turned the engine on, set the gains and bass boosts to 0, played a 70 Hz tone, used the DMM, and turned up the gains until I had matching 28.3's... well I didn't use the bass boosts at all and I got to 28.3 volts with the gains at 50-60%. Maybe my battery wasn't fully charged before or something.

Oh and I finished putting the tweeter in the passenger door flush mounted in the woodgrain and put the door panel back on. I'll take some pics.


----------



## themerc




----------



## Airborne

looks good man! How does it sound with the tweeter so high up?


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Airborne_@Jun 18 2007, 09:39 PM~8129874
> *looks good man! How does it sound with the tweeter so high up?
> *


It still sounds great. :thumbsup:


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 18 2007, 09:47 PM~8129937
> *It still sounds great. :thumbsup:
> *


 :cheesy:


----------



## dairymans64

looks good too :thumbsup:


----------



## themerc

Thanks a lot guys. I'm glad I did the extra work and put the tweeters flush mounted in the woodgrain instead of surface mounted on the sail panels.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 18 2007, 10:35 PM~8130339
> *Thanks a lot guys. I'm glad I did the extra work and put the tweeters flush mounted in the woodgrain instead of surface mounted on the sail panels.
> *


Didn't I suggest that? :0


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jun 18 2007, 10:36 PM~8130345
> *Didn't I suggest that?  :0
> *


Yes you did  Thank you for persuading me everyone.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 18 2007, 09:37 PM~8130357
> *Yes you did   Thank you for persuading me everyone.
> *


now if you had only tuned that shit lower :angry: :angry:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 18 2007, 10:46 PM~8130433
> *now if you had only tuned that shit lower  :angry:  :angry:
> *


lol 4.5 cubes @ 33 Hz with 50 inches of port? Maybe I'll build that sometime to compare. Mine's 6.2 cubes tuned to 39 Hz with 56.25 inches of port.


----------



## themerc

I do want to try covering boxes in something different though. I hate working with that felt carpet. No matter how close I cut it and superglue the seams I can't make them look perfect. Besides glassing, what else do people cover boxes with?


----------



## ROCK OUT

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 18 2007, 07:18 PM~8129745
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


looks good but i wouldn't have gone into the wood grain here's were my homies put his in his Acura. been checking out your topic you doing some good work


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Jun 18 2007, 11:04 PM~8130657
> *looks good but i wouldn't have gone into the wood grain here's were my homies put his in his Acura. been checking out your topic you doing some good work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Yeah but I'd have to surface mount them there and they'd stick out like an inch. Plus I wanted to keep them close to the mids.


----------



## LIL Mafia

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 18 2007, 10:56 PM~8130548
> *I do want to try covering boxes in something different though. I hate working with that felt carpet. No matter how close I cut it and superglue the seams I can't make them look perfect. Besides glassing, what else do people cover boxes with?
> *


ANYTHING you can think of, truck bedliner, paint, leather, crushed velvet, cloth.. w/e uou can think of. You can even get woodgrain panels :0


----------



## themerc

Alright I did the drivers door today. I'm all done. I just need a couple plastic screws to tighten up some loose panels under the dash. I think I'm going to replace my carpet eventually too. It's got cigarette burn holes and stains from the last owner.


----------



## themerc

If I got a third 400.1 and a third CVR12 do you think I'd need a second battery/ high output alternator? My alternator is 135 amps. I have a duralast gold battery...

Size: 65
CA: 1000
CCA: 875
RC: 165


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 22 2007, 09:54 AM~8153887
> *If I got a third 400.1 and a third CVR12 do you think I'd need a second battery/ high output alternator? My alternator is 135 amps. I have a duralast gold battery...
> 
> Size: 65
> CA: 1000
> CCA: 875
> RC: 165
> *


sell all that bullchat and get some man sized 15s


----------



## themerc

How much do you think I could get for two 400.1's and two cvr12's?

...cuz I think I'd lose some serious dough on that deal.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 22 2007, 11:27 PM~8158785
> *How much do you think I could get for two 400.1's and two cvr12's?
> 
> ...cuz I think I'd lose some serious dough on that deal.
> *


if you sell locally you can make money on the deal....
whats wrong with the cvr's?


----------



## supermanmike1220

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 22 2007, 09:27 PM~8158785
> *How much do you think I could get for two 400.1's and two cvr12's?
> 
> ...cuz I think I'd lose some serious dough on that deal.
> *


arounnd here you could probably get around 200 - 450 depends on what comes with it all (box and wiring)...and what kind of condition the equipment is in.


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 23 2007, 12:48 PM~8160894
> *if you sell locally you can make money on the deal....
> whats wrong with the cvr's?
> *


Nothing is wrong with any of my equipment. It all looks brand new and performs like new.


----------



## themerc

Would 3 cvr12's sealed be louder than 2 cvr12's ported?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 23 2007, 04:37 PM~8162244
> *Nothing is wrong with any of my equipment. It all looks brand new and performs like new.
> *


no I mean why all the talk of swapping subs/addin another


and 2 ported should be louder than 3 sealed


----------



## themerc

It's not loud enough for me. But first, I have a question. I did all my tuning to 400 watts (28.3 volts) with the EQ on flat. When I put my EQ on rock the bass is MUCH louder. Is this bad? Am I making my amplifier try to push more than 400 watts? Because I've kept my EQ on flat this whole time and the bass just isn't enough.


----------



## Sporty

take your car to a shop and let them set your stuff for you... watch them as they do it and ask questions... im trying to save you from your novice ways


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jun 25 2007, 09:59 AM~8170341
> *take your car to a shop and let them set your stuff for you... watch them as they do it and ask questions... im trying to save you from your novice ways
> *


I thought the point of a forum was to learn. If I wanted to have my stuff done at a shop I wouldn't bother learning anything, hand them $1000, and say "make my car loud." Don't most of you work/have worked at a shop? What could you possibly do differently than any other shop? Why don't you just tell me exactly what you would do if you were tuning the system, instead of me driving 45 minutes and paying money, please. I trust you guys more than the guys at my local shop... who won't even let people in the installation area. Maybe someone should writeup a "How to tune your system" sticky.

Wouldn't you just play a tone with the EQ on rock and check the voltage, and if it's more than 28.3 volts, then its not safe to play it with the EQ on rock?


----------



## themerc

Alright, I went to a shop, 2 actually. The first shop told me I did it all wrong. "You're supposed to have 2 chambers." I explained that I matched the amp gains at 28.3 volts (400 watts at 2 ohms). The guy said that's not accurate. He said you need some device like an osiscope or something and he didn't have one. I asked him to take a look at it anyway. I put the volume on 30, put the headunit on +6 bass, put the EQ on flat, and played a 50 Hz tone, 70 Hz tone, and some bass tester music. He said it sounded great. The amp gains were at about 75%. He said he didn't hear any distortion. I was like okay sweet and left. On my way back I realized I forgot to ask about the rock EQ so I went back. He was too busy to look at it again so I went to another shop. I did the same thing. I explained the setup, put the volume on 30, headunit on +6 bass, put the EQ on flat, and played the same stuff. He said it sounded great too. He said he was very surprised how good it sounded with the trunk open. He said usually it sounds terrible once the trunk opens. I said okay let me try with the EQ on rock. I put the EQ on rock and put the volume at 25 (headunit at +6 bass still). He said it sounded fine. But as we were listening a guy at the shop was walking by and said he could smell my voice coils burning. I immediately turned the volume down and asked him about it. I asked him if he thought I should turn my amp gains down. He said no just close your trunk. He said with the trunk open there's no back pressure and it ends up causing the voice coils to burn faster. So what's your opinion on all of this now?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 25 2007, 09:44 AM~8170513
> *Alright, I went to a shop, 2 actually. The first shop told me I did it all wrong. "You're supposed to have 2 chambers." I explained that I matched the amp gains at 28.3 volts (400 watts at 2 ohms). The guy said that's not accurate. He said you need some device like an osiscope or something and he didn't have one. I asked him to take a look at it anyway. I put the volume on 30, put the headunit on +6 bass, put the EQ on flat, and played a 50 Hz tone, 70 Hz tone, and some bass tester music. He said it sounded great. The amp gains were at about 75%. He said he didn't hear any distortion. I was like okay sweet and left. On my way back I realized I forgot to ask about the rock EQ so I went back. He was too busy to look at it again so I went to another shop. I did the same thing. I explained the setup, put the volume on 30, headunit on +6 bass, put the EQ on flat, and played the same stuff. He said it sounded great too. He said he was very surprised how good it sounded with the trunk open. He said usually it sounds terrible once the trunk opens. I said okay let me try with the EQ on rock. I put the EQ on rock and put the volume at 25 (headunit at +6 bass still). He said it sounded fine. But as we were listening a guy at the shop was walking by and said he could smell my voice coils burning. I immediately turned the volume down and asked him about it. I asked him if he thought I should turn my amp gains down. He said no just close your trunk. He said with the trunk open there's no back pressure and it ends up causing the voice coils to burn faster. So what's your opinion on all of this now?
> *


An Oscilloscope allows you to see soundwaves and can tell exactly when its clipping and is the absolute best way to set gains. The method with the DMM is a more accurate way to set the gains than going by ear but isnt 100% accurate. You are fine with your eq on "rock" provided your shit isnt distorting and the subs dont get stinky. The guy that said the shit about closing the trunk is a complete and total idiot, you smelled the coils because you were pushing the subs hard and its either excess glue burning off or the coils are starting to cook. Id still cut all bass boosts off


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 25 2007, 09:39 AM~8170492
> *I thought the point of a forum was to learn. If I wanted to have my stuff done at a shop I wouldn't bother learning anything, hand them $1000, and say "make my car loud." Don't most of you work/have worked at a shop? What could you possibly do differently than any other shop? Why don't you just tell me exactly what you would do if you were tuning the system, instead of me driving 45 minutes and paying money, please. I trust you guys more than the guys at my local shop... who won't even let people in the installation area. Maybe someone should writeup a "How to tune your system" sticky.
> 
> Wouldn't you just play a tone with the EQ on rock and check the voltage, and if it's more than 28.3 volts, then its not safe to play it with the EQ on rock?
> *


theres only so much we can teach you over the internet... some shit needs to be taught person to person... i didnt say log off and not come back, i said go to a shop, ask questions, look over their shoulder as they do it. 

and alot of times, there isnt a set rubric to this, every application is different, every car is different...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 25 2007, 06:02 PM~8173251
> *An Oscilloscope allows you to see soundwaves and can tell exactly when its clipping and is the absolute best way to set gains.  The method with the DMM is a more accurate way to set the gains than going by ear but isnt 100% accurate.  You are fine with your eq on "rock" provided your shit isnt distorting and the subs dont get stinky.  The guy that said the shit about closing the trunk is a complete and total idiot, you smelled the coils because you were pushing the subs hard and its either excess glue burning off or the coils are starting to cook.  Id still cut all bass boosts off
> *


Yeah my amp bass boosts are at 0. I figure if I have it on rock I won't go above 25 volume at and keep it at +4 or below. Most likely I'll just keep it on flat with the volume at 25-30 and the bass at +4 to +6.



> *theres only so much we can teach you over the internet... some shit needs to be taught person to person... i didnt say log off and not come back, i said go to a shop, ask questions, look over their shoulder as they do it. *


Yeah I understand now. I didn't know that smell was the voice coils. My box always has a light smell from the spray paint/caulk/glue anyway, and it didn't smell like a usual wood burning smell so I had no idea that's what it was.


Oh yeah, I checked the voltage going into my amps power terminals. It was 13.8 volts. Is that normal? I checked the voltage right on the battery terminals and it was 13.9 volts.


----------



## LIL Mafia

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 25 2007, 11:31 PM~8175846
> *Oh yeah, I checked the voltage going into my amps power terminals. It was 13.8 volts. Is that normal? I checked the voltage right on the battery terminals and it was 13.9 volts.
> *


Thats PERFECT. :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by C_F_C_@Jun 26 2007, 09:44 PM~8182865
> *Thats PERFECT. :biggrin:
> *


Sick. I was afraid that big three with 1/0 gauge was all for nothing.


----------



## LIL Mafia

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 26 2007, 09:46 PM~8182873
> *Sick. I was afraid that big three with 1/0 gauge was all for nothing.
> *


----------



## themerc

I was looking at a Cadence amp. It looked like a really good deal. Here.

Cadence Direct had them on ebay too for the same price with free shipping. 


1 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 1000 Watts @ *13.8 Volts*
2 Amps Bridged 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000 Watts

only $199


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 26 2007, 10:18 PM~8183122
> *I was looking at a Cadence amp. It looked like a really good deal. Here.
> 
> Cadence Direct had them on ebay too for the same price with free shipping.
> 1 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 1000 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
> 2 Amps Bridged 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000 Watts
> 
> only $199
> *


You won't have 13.8 volts during play, which makes those numbers mean nothing...


----------



## themerc

Alright, I'll check the voltage at full tilt. It seems like a deal I can't pass up though, a brand new 1000 watt strapable amp for $200 shipped.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 27 2007, 07:04 AM~8185371
> *Alright, I'll check the voltage at full tilt. It seems like a deal I can't pass up though, a brand new 1000 watt strapable amp for $200 shipped.
> *


"seems like" is the key phrase here...

On normal voltage you may see 800 watts out of that amp at a lower ohm load than the kickers, which means more current draw than the 800 watts you are getting out of your pair of kicker amps with less draw...

I personally don't see any plus to changing to that amp other than ease of wiring the subs to it...


----------



## themerc

Yeah I wasn't thinking for the kickers. I was thinking 2 of them strapped for a future system... like a couple of 15's.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 27 2007, 07:30 AM~8185395
> *Yeah I wasn't thinking for the kickers. I was thinking 2 of them strapped for a future system... like a couple of 15's.
> *


Then buy one larger 2000 watt amp from the start, strapping two 1000 watt amps together when there are plenty of 2000 watt amps on the market doesn't make any sense...

Buy a SAZ-1500D and be ready for anything...


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jun 27 2007, 09:00 AM~8185763
> *Then buy one larger 2000 watt amp from the start, strapping two 1000 watt amps together when there are plenty of 2000 watt amps on the market doesn't make any sense...
> 
> Buy a SAZ-1500D and be ready for anything...
> *


would go nice with a Round solobaric 15 :uh: :angry: :angry:


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 27 2007, 10:16 PM~8190585
> *would go nice with a Round solobaric 15  :uh:  :angry:  :angry:
> *


Heh, nah, too much power for it... :cheesy:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jun 27 2007, 09:26 PM~8190676
> *Heh, nah, too much power for it...  :cheesy:
> *


no such thing... gimme the sub Ill show u :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jun 27 2007, 10:00 AM~8185763
> *Then buy one larger 2000 watt amp from the start, strapping two 1000 watt amps together when there are plenty of 2000 watt amps on the market doesn't make any sense...
> 
> Buy a SAZ-1500D and be ready for anything...
> *


Two 1000 watt amps $400
One 1500 watt SAZ-1500D $600


and Pit, wtf are you talking about? lol


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 28 2007, 10:31 PM~8198265
> *Pit, wtf are you talking about? lol
> *


grown folks bidness


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 28 2007, 11:31 PM~8198265
> *Two 1000 watt amps $400
> One 1500 watt SAZ-1500D $600
> and Pit, wtf are you talking about? lol
> *


You suck at math...


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 28 2007, 11:54 PM~8199083
> *grown folks bidness
> *


lol


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 28 2007, 10:31 PM~8198265
> *Two 1000 watt amps $400
> One 1500 watt SAZ-1500D $600
> and Pit, wtf are you talking about? lol
> *



two 1000w amps @ $400 = 1600wRMS on a good day with god holding a lightening bolt on the battery 

one SAZ-1500D @ $600 = 1500wRMS on a poor day with the battery on its last leg


but all jokes aside, the SAZ would be the better choice... less wiring, less work, probably less draw, and your gonna be able to crank out ~2000wRMS out of that thing if your electric is on point. and it is a QUALITY amp


----------



## themerc

I found some real life specs on another site...



"


----------



## themerc

If I were to get a SAZ-1500D and keep my 350.2, what kind of electrical system changes would I need to make?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 30 2007, 12:39 AM~8206123
> *If I were to get a SAZ-1500D and keep my 350.2, what kind of electrical system changes would I need to make?
> *


H/O alt, real 1/0 wire, at least one good extra battery in trunk...


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jun 30 2007, 08:03 AM~8207305
> *H/O alt, real 1/0 wire, at least one good extra battery in trunk...
> *


Well I looked at iraggi alternators. They had...

180A max, 120A idle $177.17 shipped
220A max, 120A idle $242.97 shipped
240A max, 115A idle $259.97 shipped

Is the idle amps the important spec? My alternator is 135A, I'm in the process of finding out how many amps at idle.


I take it by real 1/0 gauge you mean knukonceptz Kolossus Kable (5145 strands of tinned oxygen free copper). My elemental designs eNETIC 1/0 gauge is 4459 strands of tinned oxygen free copper.

What kind of battery/what kind of specs should I be looking for in a battery?


----------



## themerc

Alright I measured my full tilt voltage going into the amps. It was 13.1-13.2 volts while I was playing a 70 Hz tone at 3/4 volume and bass at +6... but I had the 350.2 RCA's unplugged and the headunit faded to the front so there was no sound coming from the speakers... would my 400.1 voltage drop more if the 350.2 was in use? Oh and when I was done the voice coils were stinkin again. The next subs I buy will be rated higher than my amp.

Man, I wish I had the money for a SAZ-1500D and 2 BL15's.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jun 30 2007, 01:11 PM~8208281
> *Man, I wish I had the money for a SAZ-1500D and 2 BL15's.
> *


THAT'S what you need to be working towards, and quit playing with the beginner stuff if you wanna be loud...  

Offer to install all that stuff you got into someone else's car and make some money and sell your stuff at the same time, put that money back for the real equipment...

Once you have a good head start on the money and no bass in the ride, you'll be amazed on how fast you'll come up with the rest...


----------



## Pitbullx

bl fideens would be starved with a single 1500d


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 30 2007, 11:10 PM~8210698
> *bl fideens would be starved with a single 1500d
> *


Well I figured it puts out 1500+ and each BL can take 1000, so each would be getting 750+... I didn't want to smoke the coils like my subs now.


----------



## themerc

What other amps/subs should I look at? I want my next system to be 1500+ watts.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jun 30 2007, 11:10 PM~8210698
> *bl fideens would be starved with a single 1500d
> *


Nah, he'd be just fine if he got two dual 2ohm subs and ran the amp at 0.5 ohms...  

He better come correct with some current though... :0 

On a side note, dont sell the SSD's short merc


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc+Jun 30 2007, 10:15 PM~8210719-->
> 
> 
> 
> Well I figured it puts out 1500+ and each BL can take 1000, so each would be getting 750+... I didn't want to smoke the coils like my subs now.
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> you wont smoke them.... they can handle alot more for daily if the install is done correctly.... Ive been watching a pair on a t3000.1 for 2months now and they are going strong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally posted by [email protected] 30 2007, 10:35 PM~8210785
> *What other amps/subs should I look at? I want my next system to be 1500+ watts.
> *
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Fi SSD or Q
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-Brahma Brian_@Jul 1 2007, 01:59 AM~8211598
> *Nah, he'd be just fine if he got two dual 2ohm subs and ran the amp at 0.5 ohms...
> 
> He better come correct with some current though...  :0
> 
> On a side note, dont sell the SSD's short merc
> *


not enough current would make the amp sad


----------



## themerc

If I go with Fi I want either Q15's, Q18's, BL15's, or BL18's... keeping in mind by the time I have the money I may not have the same car anymore lol. What are some other amps I should look at?


Oh yeah, and what kind of battery would I need to get?


----------



## Pitbullx

18s arent an option unless you have an suv or want to do a wall/half wall

any amp that does 2000-2400w rms would be nice for the bl's


----------



## themerc

Would you go Q15 or BL15?

The BL15 says "Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 30-37Hz"... what box would you do for 2 BL15's?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 4 2007, 11:12 AM~8233254
> *Would you go Q15 or BL15?
> 
> The BL15 says "Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 30-37Hz"... what box would you do for 2 BL15's?
> *


depends on the power and application..... the BL's like more power than the Q's and they have a different sound.


----------



## themerc

Ah,

Oh yeah, I was bored so I plugged in some numbers in WinISD...










Green is 4.5 cubes tuned to 41 Hz... what Kicker recommends.
Red is 6.2 cubes tuned to 39 Hz... my box.
Yellow is 4.5 cubes tuned to 33 Hz... what some of you recommended. 

Do you guys see any gain in me changing my box?


----------



## Pitbullx

stronger lowend response..... your box will peak anywhere between 10-15hz higher than what its tuned to.... my current box is tuned to 27-28hz and shit goes crazy from 30-43hz. above that freq its still loud as hell but things fall apart when notes within that range are played. its all a matter of musical tastes and listening habits.... high bass makes thing buzz and rattle, low bass makes things jump all over the place and it hard to see/breathe


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 4 2007, 01:36 PM~8233673
> *stronger lowend response..... your box will peak anywhere between 10-15hz higher than what its tuned to.... my current box is tuned to 27-28hz and shit goes crazy from 30-43hz.  above that freq its still loud as hell but things fall apart when notes within that range are played.  its all a matter of musical tastes and listening habits.... high bass makes thing buzz and rattle, low bass makes things jump all over the place and it hard to see/breathe
> *


That's the kind of explanation I was looking for. My old box was tuned to 31 Hz and my new box is 39 Hz. I loved how with the first box you could really feel the bass... like inside you lol. The new box does too... but not a significant amount more than the first box, and this one has 400 more watts.


----------



## themerc

I think I'm going to build a box 4.5 cubes tuned to 33 Hz for comparison. I've got nothing to lose. I mean it only costs like $50 to build a new box...and I enjoy doing it anyway lol. I'll build it with 50 sq. inches of port... now I just need to decide whether to go 1 or 2 chambers.


----------



## WhitePapi2006

post some pics


----------



## WhitePapi2006

what is wrong with the box you had them in??????


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by WhitePapi2006_@Jul 8 2007, 03:44 PM~8259706
> *what is wrong with the box you had them in??????
> *


It's loud but I want it to hit lower. Plus I want to compare the boxes just for fun.


----------



## themerc

Which style port do you think I should do? Top or bottom picture?


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 8 2007, 04:18 PM~8259870
> *It's loud but I want it to hit lower. Plus I want to compare the boxes just for fun.
> *


Didn't pit and everyone else tell you to tune it lower from the get go? :uh:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jul 8 2007, 04:51 PM~8260044
> *Didn't pit and everyone else tell you to tune it lower from the get go?  :uh:
> *


Yeah, but trial and error is how you learn. I'm not building boxes for a customer that has to have it perfect the first time. I'm building them for myself and for fun. I want to know what sub boxes tuned to 39 Hz and 33 Hz sound like... otherwise how else can I give advice to others.


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 8 2007, 04:11 PM~8260115
> *Yeah, but trial and error is how you learn. I'm not building boxes for a customer that has to have it perfect the first time. I'm building them for myself and for fun. I want to know what sub boxes tuned to 39 Hz and 33 Hz sound like... otherwise how else can I give advice to others.
> *


you can listen to and take advise from those that already know  Brian and myself dont give suggestions just to see our names on the monitor :angry:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 8 2007, 03:21 PM~8259894
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which style port do you think I should do? Top or bottom picture?
> *


top


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 8 2007, 04:23 PM~8260164
> *you can listen to and take advise from those that already know   Brian and myself dont give suggestions just to see our names on the monitor :angry:
> *


and i do? uffin:


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 8 2007, 04:11 PM~8260115
> *Yeah, but trial and error is how you learn. I'm not building boxes for a customer that has to have it perfect the first time. I'm building them for myself and for fun. I want to know what sub boxes tuned to 39 Hz and 33 Hz sound like... otherwise how else can I give advice to others.
> *


i bet when the smoke clears, the advice you'll give others about the cvr's will be the same advice that was given to you a number of times by multiple members (including myself)


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 8 2007, 08:29 PM~8261368
> *and i do?  uffin:
> *


everyone knows ur a postwhore :biggrin:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 8 2007, 09:33 PM~8261408
> *i bet when the smoke clears, the advice you'll give others about the cvr's will be the same advice that was given to you a number of times by multiple members (including myself)
> *


Probably, but it's better when people give advice from personal experience rather than what they read somewhere on the internet. But before everyone yells "I told you so" a hundred times.... good news... A guy at work heard my system and said that if I ever wanted to upgrade my system he'd buy my old one if I installed it for him.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 8 2007, 10:22 PM~8262213
> *Probably, but it's better when people give advice from personal experience rather than what they read somewhere on the internet. *


true, but if your thinking about it that way, what's the use in asking/giving advice? if the "right" thing to do is to fail (not saying you failed) just so you have your own personal experience ,despite others personal experience, so you can give advice, but for someone to think the same thing you do, what's the point in taking the long path, when you could have taken the shortcut?


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 9 2007, 10:22 PM~8270494
> *true, but if your thinking about it that way, what's the use in asking/giving advice? if the "right" thing to do is to fail (not saying you failed) just so you have your own personal experience ,despite others personal experience, so you can give advice, but for someone to think the same thing you do, what's the point in taking the long path, when you could have taken the shortcut?
> *


because he wanted to boost his postcount duh :uh:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 9 2007, 11:22 PM~8270494
> *true, but if your thinking about it that way, what's the use in asking/giving advice? if the "right" thing to do is to fail (not saying you failed) just so you have your own personal experience ,despite others personal experience, so you can give advice, but for someone to think the same thing you do, what's the point in taking the long path, when you could have taken the shortcut?
> *


You lost me.



> *because he wanted to boost his postcount duh  :uh: *


...You're kidding me right? I don't hang out in off topic posting pictures of girls' asses all day like 75% of the members on this site or post 850948228 pictures of the same 13x7 spoke rim everyone else has.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 10 2007, 12:14 AM~8270957
> *...You're kidding me right? I don't hang out in off topic posting pictures of girls' asses all day like 75% of the members on this site or post 850948228 pictures of the same 13x7 spoke rim everyone else has.
> *


Me = Most active in Car Stereo ( *5110 posts / 95% of this member's active posts* )


----------



## Pitbullx

Me = Most active in Car Stereo
( 2930 posts / 80% of this member's active posts )
Last Active Today, 11:18 PM
Status User is online! (Active in topic: CHEAP ASS SUBS)

I love OT too much :cheesy:


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jul 10 2007, 12:16 AM~8270980
> *Me = Most active in  Car Stereo ( 5110 posts / 95% of this member's active posts )
> *


  

Me= Most active in Car Stereo ( 739 posts / 78% of this member's active posts )


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 9 2007, 11:14 PM~8270957
> *You lost me.
> ...You're kidding me right? I don't hang out in off topic posting pictures of girls' asses all day like 75% of the members on this site or post 850948228 pictures of the same 13x7 spoke rim everyone else has.
> *


and postcount doesnt increase in OT n00b :twak: ur teh spammer


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 10 2007, 12:21 AM~8271034
> *and postcount doesnt increase in OT n00b :twak: ur teh spammer
> *


I wouldn't know, I don't go in there... and I'm not a spammer.


----------



## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian+Jul 10 2007, 12:16 AM~8270980-->
> 
> 
> 
> Me = Most active in  Car Stereo ( *5110 posts / 95% of this member's active posts* )
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally posted by [email protected] 10 2007, 12:19 AM~8271013
> *Me = Most active in  Car Stereo ( 2930 posts / 80% of this member's active posts )
> *
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-themerc_@Jul 10 2007, 12:20 AM~8271021
> *Me= Most active in Car Stereo ( 739 posts / 78% of this member's active posts )
> *


I'm teh winnargh! :cheesy:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jul 9 2007, 11:26 PM~8271091
> *I'm teh winnargh!  :cheesy:
> *


I demand a recount!


----------



## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 10 2007, 12:33 AM~8271160
> *I demand a recount!
> *


Well I'm from Florida... I'm in charge! :cheesy:


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 9 2007, 11:35 PM~8271182
> *Well I'm from Florida... I'm in charge!  :cheesy:
> *


home of teh donk helll nah


----------



## themerc

Can anyone tell me exactly how long the port for 2.25 cubes tuned to 33 Hz should be? (12.5" tall x 4" wide)

I know it's somewhere between 19 and 21 inches.


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Jul 9 2007, 11:26 PM~8271091
> *I'm teh winnargh!  :cheesy:
> *


User's local time Jul 10 2007, 08:12 AM 
Total Cumulative Posts 1,705 
( 3.2 posts per day / 0.04% of total forum posts ) 
Most active in Car Stereo
( 1465 posts / 91% of this member's active posts ) 
Last Active Today, 08:11 AM 
Status (Active in topic: Building my first box...ported) 


i'll claim 2nd place then. if i had my old account still, i mighta gave you a run for it


----------



## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 10 2007, 08:14 AM~8273147
> *User's local time Jul 10 2007, 08:12 AM
> Total Cumulative Posts 1,705
> ( 3.2 posts per day / 0.04% of total forum posts )
> Most active in Car Stereo
> ( 1465 posts / 91% of this member's active posts )
> Last Active Today, 08:11 AM
> Status  (Active in topic: Building my first box...ported)
> i'll claim 2nd place then. if i had my old account still, i mighta gave you a run for it
> *


you only make 3 posts per day you are teh bronze I get teh silver


----------



## themerc

Can anyone tell me exactly how long the port for 2.25 cubes tuned to 33 Hz should be? (12.5" tall x 4" wide)


----------



## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 10 2007, 09:48 PM~8279134
> *Can anyone tell me exactly how long the port for 2.25 cubes tuned to 33 Hz should be? (12.5" tall x 4" wide)
> *


alright bro, this is how i got about it.

- determine the area of your port (in this case, it will be 50sq in). 

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp has a calculator that determines length of ports given the net volume, desired tuning, and diameter of port. the problem is, your not using a tube, but a slot vent.

in theory, a tube port of the same length and area of a slot vent should yield the same tuning if used in the same net volume. with that said:

- divide your area by pie (3.14...)
- now take the square root of that value
-now multiply that value by 2

at this point, you have the diameter of a tube port that yields the same port area as your slot vent.

go to http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp and type in the diameter of a tube port (what you just calculated), the net volume, and tuning desired and it will tell you the length the port should be.

in your case, the port needs to be 49.179 inches long to reach a 33hz tuning in 2.25cubes net volume, and a 50sqin port area.


----------



## themerc

Shit I meant 4.5 cubes. I just wanted to see how accurate WinISD and all those port calculators I use are.... because they're all a little bit different. WinISD says 20.92 inches (4.5 cubes @ 33 Hz... port 12.5"x4").


----------



## Sporty

21.177inches long is what i get for 4.5

use the method i just sat down and typed up so you dont have to ask everytime you decide to change to a different volume or tuning or port area


----------



## themerc

Damn... cuz I had this box designed and the port would be 20" long... maybe a little less after sanding the edges. I mean I guess I could cut a 1"x12.5" piece of MDF to attach at the end of the port making an L then sand the edges... but it almost seems more trouble than it's worth. I'll increase the width of the box an inch and cut down on the depth so the piece added on the end of the port would be bigger than 1".


----------



## Sporty

why dont you try an ABC enclosure or a quasi 8th order bandpass (or something DIFFERENT then the norm) with a single CVR12 and see how it goes. i heard a single cvr 10 in what looked like a quasi 8th order bandpass in an explorer and that shit had me confused. i just COULD NOT believe all that deep output was coming from a cvr10 powered by a lil ass 300w RMS amp..


----------



## themerc

Haha yeah maybe... a guy on another site I'm on built one for his brother's car...










"


----------



## Sporty

i wouldnt lead you wrong bro (brahma, 1ofaknd, and pit wouldnt either... well maybe pit because he dont like you  ) 

just letting you know its more out there then just sealed, ported, and single bandpass enclosure alignment.

if i had the room in my truck, i would have these 4 ID8's outfitting an ABC and a quasi 8th order (for compare and contrast)... but imma have to do a loaded ported enclosure for them

the right subs in the right enclosures = damage to the ears


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## C-Bass

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 10 2007, 08:48 PM~8279134
> *Can anyone tell me exactly how long the port for 2.25 cubes tuned to 33 Hz should be? (12.5" tall x 4" wide)
> *


http://www.darkscience.com.au/caraudiohowto/slotcalc/


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## themerc

lol yeah. I bought 2 sheets of MDF yesterday. I'll build this 4.5 tuned to 33 hz box and some sort of amp shelf... then I'll read up on these ABC boxes. The guy left this link.


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by kannabis_@Jul 12 2007, 01:27 AM~8289216
> *http://www.darkscience.com.au/caraudiohowto/slotcalc/
> *


That says 19.66 inches... see what I'm talking about? One of these sites is wrong lol.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 12 2007, 12:28 AM~8289231
> *lol yeah. I bought 2 sheets of MDF yesterday. I'll build this 4.5 tuned to 33 hz box and some sort of amp shelf... then I'll read up on these ABC boxes. The guy left this link.
> *


read and enjoy

you'll end up with a pretty large enclosure if you attack the ABC enclosure


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 12 2007, 12:30 AM~8289250
> *That says 19.66 inches... see what I'm talking about? One of these sites is wrong lol.
> *


my numbers and your numbers are off by a quarter inch. i think HE might need to jump ship and get on the team lol.

i dunno, im gonna stick with the way i do it (flared ports). with 2", 3", 4", and "6, there's really no need for *me* to make a slot vent


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## themerc

Sound good?


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## themerc

Alright never mind it can't be more than 39" wide. I'll try this again.


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## Pitbullx

4.5^ft net
12.5x4x 23.73l = 33hz


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## themerc

Sweet. The port is somewhere between 19.7 and 23.7 inches long lol.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 12 2007, 10:23 PM~8297180
> *Sweet. The port is somewhere between 19.7 and 23.7 inches long lol.
> *


bbassbox pro and leap (what I use ) are accurate


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## themerc




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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 12 2007, 10:56 PM~8297571
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


i dont see how you figure you'll get 33hz tuning with that port split like that.

in theory, the second your port changes in volume through out its length, the tuning frequency is changed. and your port changes in volume when it gets to the rear wall.


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## themerc

I thought that was solved because it went from 4" wide to 2" wide when it split into 2?


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## themerc

Pit?


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## Brahma Brian

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 14 2007, 12:56 PM~8307477
> *Pit?
> *


Bueller?, Bueller?, Bueller?, Bueller?


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## themerc

This box is 39" wide, 14" tall, and 14" deep.










The blue tape on the measuring tape marks 22.5"



















Here's the false floor with the tire underneath.


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## themerc

I could do this.









...or I could just go 2 chambers and use one 4" round port per chamber... 12.57 sq. inches of port per sub.


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## Pitbullx

just do a divider in the middle if you dont think the tuning freq will be right with the 1st design

make sure you knock an inch off the length of the port if you do the divider in the middle and ports on either side


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## themerc

If I do 2 chambers, should I do one 4" round port, one 12.5"x2" vent, or one 12.5"x3" vent (kicker recommends) per chamber?


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 14 2007, 05:12 PM~8308817
> *If I do 2 chambers, should I do one 4" round port, one 12.5"x2" vent, or one 12.5"x3" vent (kicker recommends) per chamber?
> *


id do 25sq in of port per chamber

thats 2 4" round ports or a 12.5 x 2 slot port


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 14 2007, 08:29 PM~8309291
> *id do 25sq in of port per chamber
> 
> thats 2 4" round ports or a 12.5 x 2 slot port
> *


deal.


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## themerc

How long do the ports need to be?


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## Sporty

damn, so all pit had to do was suggest a dual chamber and you woulda bit??? sucks to be me i guess, i got my idea tossed out the boat when i suggested it PAGES ago. and then round ports was discussed? this shits getting freaky, im outta here!


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 15 2007, 11:44 PM~8315947
> *How long do the ports need to be?
> *


2.25^ft net
12.5 x 2 port 
25.17" long (thats with end correction taken into account already) will give you 33hz


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## themerc

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 16 2007, 04:05 PM~8319929
> *damn, so all pit had to do was suggest a dual chamber and you woulda bit??? sucks to be me i guess, i got my idea tossed out the boat when i suggested it PAGES ago. and then round ports was discussed? this shits getting freaky, im outta here!
> *


lol I would've done a single chamber but since no one is confident I'm tuning my amps correctly and I'm not 100% positive myself I decided to do 2 chambers to be safe. Both of you also said 25 sq. inches of port was way too much pages ago as well. I've done 25 sq. inches of port before and it sounded good... in fact Kicker recommended 37.5 sq. inches. I also asked about the round ports but I was going to use regular pvc pipe and the port area would've been small... 12.57 sq. inches. Then I thought about using flares until I saw they're like 14 bucks a piece plus shipping... so regular slot vents it is. Don't think your advice is useless or isn't appreciated Sporty. You've helped me out a lot. Thanks man.


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## Sporty

note: never go by the kicker box specs... we've (some of the vets might remember this... this was back in the day when ibanender was posting) decided a couple years ago that kicker doesnt know shit about how to make a proper box for their subs.

but maybe they've changed them, i havent bought any kicker gear since early 2005


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## themerc




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## themerc

I'm going to cut the MDF and hopefully build the box today.


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by themerc_@Jul 17 2007, 10:19 AM~8326400
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


try an ABC enclosure... with one of the subs.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 17 2007, 03:28 PM~8328763
> *try an ABC enclosure...  with one of the subs.
> *


box will prolly be bigger than the ported one for 2 subs


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 17 2007, 04:43 PM~8329415
> *box will prolly be bigger than the ported one for 2 subs
> *


 3 - 3.5 cubes (combining both chambers net volume) if he does it for one.

but it'll be fun though.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 17 2007, 05:24 PM~8329777
> *3 - 3.5 cubes (combining both chambers net volume) if he does it for one.
> 
> but it'll be fun though.
> *


no real performance gain over the ported box.... dont see the point in building a complex enclosure


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 17 2007, 05:48 PM~8329972
> *no real performance gain over the ported box.... dont see the point in building a complex enclosure
> *


something different i guess.

from what they say, it suppose to have a one up on ported enclosures, only down fall is a larger enclosure, and a more complex enclosure. as far as competing and metering, not worth the trouble over a ported, but covering more frequencies for a daily driver should be considered a gain.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 17 2007, 09:23 PM~8331799
> *something different i guess.
> 
> from what they say, it suppose to have a one up on ported enclosures, only down fall is a larger enclosure, and a more complex enclosure. as far as competing and metering, not worth the trouble over a ported, but covering more frequencies for a daily driver should be considered a gain.
> *


they are a royal pain in the ass.... I helped a teammate do one for 2 9515s about 5-6yrs ago...... Id rather have teeth pulled with no drugs before Id do that shit again


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## Sporty

> _Originally posted by Pitbullx_@Jul 17 2007, 10:29 PM~8332452
> *they are a royal pain in the ass.... I helped a teammate do one for 2 9515s about 5-6yrs ago...... Id rather have teeth pulled with no drugs before Id do that shit again
> *


for two 9515's, i woulda talked his ass out of it cuz i bet you guys slot vented it, had to be a pain in the ass, and he was probably doing in for the lanes. i think ABC/quasi-8th's are most effective in single sub setups, 12" and down. for a single sub street beater, they're not a bad idea.


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## Pitbullx

> _Originally posted by Sporty_@Jul 17 2007, 11:12 PM~8332954
> *for two 9515's, i woulda talked his ass out of it cuz i bet you guys slot vented it, had to be a pain in the ass, and he was probably doing in for the lanes. i think ABC/quasi-8th's are most effective in single sub setups, 12" and down. for a single sub street beater, they're not a bad idea.
> *


actually it was for daily use.... went with slot ports because Aero's werent as readily available now as they were then.

imo a ported enclosure is my predominant choice for most applications due to its efficiency, ease of design and ease of construction

I can design a bandpass to fart a note for the mic but cant get one to perform the way I like for daily :scrutinize:


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## themerc

Ready for cuts...









Extra MDF sheet...









Hooray for scrap MDF...


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## WhitePapi2006

:thumbsup: :thumbsup  :


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