# Y-bone issues on impalas, has anyone had any probs



## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

I have a y-bone for my 64 and the rear-end still sways, has anyone experienced this problem? Discuss?


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

do you have bad lower trailing arm bushings? 

those still need to be new.. and poly if it was my call

the ybone only holds the middle.. if the outsides are held by bad bushings the ybone will become a pivoting point..


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Oct 6 2010, 11:42 AM~18750900
> *do you have bad lower trailing arm bushings?
> 
> those still need to be new.. and poly if it was my call
> ...


what he said


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

You have a pic? 

Just by looks,I always felt most impala 3 links I've seen didn't do a very good job at locating the axle laterally. not enough mount separation and not enough triangulation, plus lots of stress on the axle mount, so if its worn, that only amplifies the problem


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Oct 6 2010, 02:36 PM~18751718
> *You have a pic?
> 
> Just by looks,I always felt most impala 3 links I've seen didn't do a very good job at locating the axle laterally. not enough mount separation and not enough triangulation, plus lots of stress on the axle mount, so if its worn, that only amplifies the problem
> *


Im just wondering if it eliminates the sway. I had got the car with the ybone already and pulled it off and realized that the bushings were incorrect. I bought the correct ones and is gonna press them on tonight. im just wondering, I dont like the design, it seems that the left arm doesnt have enough reinforcement


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## 68impalatattooman (Mar 23, 2009)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 6 2010, 05:19 PM~18753138
> *Im just wondering if it eliminates the sway.  I had got the car with the ybone already and pulled it off and realized that the bushings were incorrect.  I bought the correct ones and is gonna press them on tonight.  im just wondering, I dont like the design, it seems that the left arm doesnt have enough reinforcement
> *


well if you want to sell it let me know..... :biggrin:


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

is your left arm adjustable? 

ive heard of the solid ones snapping...


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Oct 6 2010, 06:25 PM~18753642
> *is your left arm adjustable?
> 
> ive heard of the solid ones snapping...
> *


the y bone design is exactly that, its a shape of a lower case y. the passenger side is sturdy with the mounts on both the top and bottom, the other mount towards the drivers side has no bottom mount which to me seems to allow it to twist. The bottom mount is threaded allowing movement to 3 wheel and such.


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

if you were to have an H design, you wont be able to 3 wheel and have side to side, but it will correct the left mount from twistin, being more sturdy.


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 6 2010, 05:07 PM~18753940
> *the y bone design is exactly that, its a shape of a lower case y.  the passenger side is sturdy with the mounts on both the top and bottom, the other mount towards the drivers side has no bottom mount which to me seems to allow it to twist.  The bottom mount is threaded allowing movement to 3 wheel and such.
> *



i have a BMH one... best on the market.. IMHO

there is a heim joint built in from the drivers side to the main bar... 

this allows side to side adjustment, and keeps a pivot point to avoid breakage


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 6 2010, 05:09 PM~18753952
> *if you were to have an H design, you wont be able to 3 wheel and have side to side, but it will correct the left mount from twistin, being more sturdy.
> *


aka the double banana bar. im not a fan of the Y bone. just doesnt look safe.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

but then again 800+ lbs in the trunk of a 2 ton car on tires made for a toyota tercel isnt with brake technology thats 50 years old isnt safe either :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## indyzmosthated (Nov 8, 2002)

my pitbull wishbone feels solid under my 63. ive put about 400 miles on it on the highway with 12 batts and it has no sway. cant say that for my old 64


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## racerboy (Jul 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by lone star_@Oct 6 2010, 06:03 PM~18754378
> *but then again 800+ lbs in the trunk of a 2 ton car on tires made for a toyota tercel isnt with brake technology thats 50 years old isnt safe either  :biggrin:  :biggrin:
> *


x100


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Oct 6 2010, 12:34 PM~18751697
> *what he said
> *


What he said about what the other guy said.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by lone star_@Oct 6 2010, 06:03 PM~18754378
> *but then again 800+ lbs in the trunk of a 2 ton car on tires made for a toyota tercel isnt with brake technology thats 50 years old isnt safe either  :biggrin:  :biggrin:
> *


lol


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## G_KRALY (Jun 14, 2006)

No problems with my y bone.8 batts and no swaying on the freeway,the car 3 wheels and lays fine. Its the solid one without the heim joint.I noticed even more improvment in handling after i swapped out the stock rear end for a toyota one.


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## G_KRALY (Jun 14, 2006)

Sometimes shimming it helps.


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by lone star_@Oct 6 2010, 08:02 PM~18754364
> *aka the double banana bar.  im not a fan of the Y bone.  just doesnt look safe.
> *


I agree, I might fab a dual upper trailing arm making it a 4 link, should do the trick if the bushing issue does not resolve this.


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by G_KRALY_@Oct 7 2010, 02:04 AM~18757462
> *Sometimes shimming it helps.
> *


i dont think shimming is an issue with mine, but making an H should fix this permanently.


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## bay66imp (Jun 18, 2009)

i got a solid one also and when lowering mine would sway to the drivers side.my bushings are all new also.i shimmed the driver side a 1/4 in.and its all in the middle now.and with 8 batts i get no sway but i wouldnt go any bigger than 12'2 in the back.


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

a crude drawing I did on paint to give you guys a better idea.


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

left bushing may wear faster.. but with poly itll stil take a while, and its not press in, it just drops in...

the back mount would wear fastest i would think... just like on a slingshot


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Oct 7 2010, 06:52 PM~18762327
> *left bushing may wear faster.. but with poly itll stil take a while, and its not press in, it just drops in...
> 
> the back mount would wear fastest i would think... just like on a slingshot
> *


well I bought stock trailing arm bushings with the metal sleeves because the poly's had about an 1/8th of an inch of gap on all sides, which is no bueno.


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 7 2010, 06:54 PM~18762347
> *well I bought stock trailing arm bushings with the metal sleeves because the poly's had about an 1/8th of an inch of gap on all sides, which is no bueno.
> *


the stock bushings that have the metal sleeves is fukin tightskis and need to be pressed in which in theory should correct my problem. But I still think the design sucks.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 6 2010, 06:09 PM~18753952
> *if you were to have an H design, you wont be able to 3 wheel and have side to side, but it will correct the left mount from twistin, being more sturdy.
> *


you could if the H design had a pivot point in the center to allow it to twist for 3 wheel


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 7 2010, 05:47 PM~18762295
> *a crude drawing I did on paint to give you guys a better idea.
> 
> 
> ...


youll want to reinforce the round areas of the Y to help prevent snapping...those will become a weak point


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## 3whlcmry (Dec 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Oct 7 2010, 09:45 PM~18763543
> *youll want to reinforce the round areas of the Y to help prevent snapping...those will become a weak point
> *


 :angry: :angry: i know mine snapped right at the bend were its welded together


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

The reason they snap is because the bushing does not allow for enough movement, so it flexes the tube.


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Oct 7 2010, 09:13 PM~18764181
> *
> 
> 
> ...



EXACTLY why teh BMH is the only way to go as far as im concerned.. that little amount of flex it allows means everything... never seen one of theirs broken


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## red63rag (Oct 21, 2007)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Oct 8 2010, 06:38 AM~18765531
> *EXACTLY why teh BMH is the only way to go as far as im concerned.. that little amount of flex it allows means everything... never seen one of theirs broken
> *


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

realized the "H" design would not work. Example, lets say you are coming up to an incline and go sideways to avoid bottoming out. The crossbar on the H design will not allow the two arms to move independantly causing it to twist or crack. Independent upper arms is the way to go (independent 4 link).


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard+Oct 7 2010, 11:13 PM~18764181-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Even there design could be greatly improved on. They still use the threaded shank of the bushing at the axle end as a pivot. Threaded joints should never be used in that manner, they should be set to length and locked down with a jam nut. Problem is everybody on here is a tight wad when it comes to buying parts. Building one out of the proper parts to solve that would double the cost of the end product.


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

agreed on the jam nut.. id love to add one to my BMH piece..

and i dont think its perfect, i do think its the best premade marketed piece out there tho... 

tehy do have a jam nut on the left arm on teh heim atleast.. 

shit.. couldnt cost much to throw a jam nut on the back one.. hmmmm

what do you think homie?


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Oct 9 2010, 07:39 PM~18773782
> *agreed on the jam nut.. id love to add one to my BMH piece..
> 
> and i dont think its perfect, i do think its the best premade marketed piece out there tho...
> ...


The problem is you can't put a jam nut on there if you do side to side or 3 wheel at all. The bushing will not deflect enough to give the articulation needed for those moves without seriously binding and risking failure. I heims joint with a steep angle of misalingment would be needed to allow for that.


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

well i dont even have side to side and id never 3 wheel LOL

aircraft 2 pump 2 dump setup

lemme know if you think it would work for me and what id have to do


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## 68impalatattooman (Mar 23, 2009)

If anyone has a ybone for sale at a good price pm me thanks


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 68impalatattooman_@Oct 10 2010, 09:28 PM~18779338
> *If anyone has a ybone for sale at a good price pm me thanks
> *


go with a wishbone, the design is better


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Oct 7 2010, 11:13 PM~18764181
> *
> 
> 
> ...


ugh, the bushing should not move, that is what causes the sway


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath+Oct 11 2010, 05:15 PM~18785091-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


All urethane bushings will deflect to some degree. He was refering to the bushing at the axle housing not being able to offer enough articulation (twist) when locked down with a jam nut which stresses the tubing.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Oct 11 2010, 08:02 PM~18787174
> *All urethane bushings will deflect to some degree. He was refering to the bushing at the axle housing not being able to offer enough articulation (twist) when locked down with a jam nut which stresses the tubing.
> *


Thanks, I didn't know how to explain it, I drew something up.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Oct 11 2010, 10:37 PM~18787567
> *Thanks, I didn't know how to explain it, I drew something up.
> 
> 
> ...


 :h5:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Oct 11 2010, 08:44 PM~18787633
> *:h5:
> *


And one more! lol


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

the load forces are what make the reds ones and all those snap

if you dont 3 or hit s/s i think the bmh one is ok in that area.. im interested in how to make it better on the axle bushing... im only f/b

i needed something bolt in, so the bmh ybone seemd to be the best option... i wish i coulda made something better, but im no good at welding.. chariman, your piece is PERFECT... PERFECT.. id buy one of those and pay a friend to weld it on if the price was right


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Oct 11 2010, 09:24 PM~18787988
> *the load forces are what make the reds ones and all those snap
> 
> if you dont 3 or hit s/s i think the bmh one is ok in that area.. im interested in how to make it better on the axle bushing... im only f/b
> ...


The side forces apply when you drive down the road by keeping your axle centered. I think both side force and twisting break it. It's like bending a clothes hanger over and over, eventually it snaps.

Thanks, if I decide to make any I will let you know. :thumbsup:


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Just to complicate this topic further. I also don't feel the stock bracket on the axles side is strong enough either. That bracket was never intended to see the side loads a Y bone puts on it. The panhard bar handled that and the bracket reall only control pinion angle. That bracket should be gusseted to prevent fatuige.


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## westsidehydros (Nov 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Oct 13 2010, 10:58 PM~18804580
> *Just to complicate this topic further. I also don't feel the stock bracket on the axles side is strong enough either. That bracket was never intended to see the side loads a Y bone puts on it. The panhard bar handled that and the bracket reall only control pinion angle. That bracket should be gusseted to prevent fatuige.
> *


i've been thinking that the whole time. and i've explained it to guys that want to put one of those settups on a rear that was allready chromed. shit, i tore that mount from 3 wheelin when i had a stock settup w/ panhard bar


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by westsidehydros_@Oct 14 2010, 05:27 PM~18811816
> *i've been thinking that  the whole time. and i've explained it to guys that want to put one of those settups on a rear that was allready chromed.  shit, i tore that mount from 3 wheelin when i had a stock settup w/ panhard bar
> *


It really is pretty flimsy. I'm surprised more of those mounts don't fail.


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Oct 9 2010, 09:31 PM~18774982
> *The problem is you can't put a jam nut on there if you do side to side or 3 wheel at all. The bushing will not deflect enough to give the articulation needed for those moves without seriously binding and risking failure. I heims joint with a steep angle of misalingment would be needed to allow for that.
> *


i want to see you make one and blow everyone away....AGAIN!!!! :biggrin:


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by red chev_@Oct 19 2010, 01:04 PM~18851180
> *i want to see you make one and blow everyone away....AGAIN!!!! :biggrin:
> *


Not interested in it really. Any X frame Impala that I'd build would have a Ford 9" and custom rear suspension that didn't require a y bone. Besides nobody is going to pay $800 for one even if I did want to build one.


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## Big-Tymer (Dec 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 7 2010, 05:47 PM~18762295
> *a crude drawing I did on paint to give you guys a better idea.
> 
> 
> ...


 :0


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

yesterday the ybone I had snapped


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 20 2010, 08:43 AM~18859838
> *yesterday the ybone I had snapped
> *



reds?


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## westsidehydros (Nov 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Oct 19 2010, 05:05 PM~18852683
> *Not interested in it really. Any X frame Impala that I'd build would have a Ford 9" and custom rear suspension that didn't require a y bone. Besides nobody is going to pay $800 for one even if I did want to build one.
> *



i've thought about the rear susp. on impala over and over. i don't like the y bone/wish bone idea, and every triangulated 4 link i've seen is either really ugly or the uppers are so short, the pinion angle gets tweaked.

i've heard guys swear by their y bone (no ****) and how solid the rear feels, and i've heard guys swear at their y bone (again no ****) about how sloppy it feels.

:dunno:


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

the ones that are breaking are these on the bigger heavier 3 wheelin set ups..i was thinkin about one just for a up and down 6 batt set up!!


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

i LOVE my ybone.. LOVE it.. f/b only


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## 3whlcmry (Dec 17, 2004)

mine snapped i have 2 pumps 4 batteries and it still snapped same place my homies did a month earlier and reds doesnt stand behind there product they stopped emailin me back n ignoring my emails after they promised a new one


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## 68impalatattooman (Mar 23, 2009)

> _Originally posted by 3whlcmry_@Oct 20 2010, 01:04 PM~18860884
> *mine snapped i have 2 pumps 4 batteries and it still snapped same place my homies did a month earlier and reds doesnt stand behind there product they stopped emailin me back n ignoring my emails after they promised a new one
> *


 :0


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

im tellin ya.. its a flawed design either way, but atleast the hiem allows movement.. thats why the others snap in taht spot


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## westsidehydros (Nov 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 3whlcmry_@Oct 20 2010, 02:04 PM~18860884
> *mine snapped i have 2 pumps 4 batteries and it still snapped same place my homies did a month earlier and reds doesnt stand behind there product they stopped emailin me back n ignoring my emails after they promised a new one
> *



i bought one from them , last minute, at supershow couple years ago. noticed when i got home that it was made from a fairly thinwall tube. sold it before i tried it.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 20 2010, 08:43 AM~18859838
> *yesterday the ybone I had snapped
> *


Damn, Post a pic.

What brand was it?


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Oct 14 2010, 04:52 PM~18811970
> *It really is pretty flimsy. I'm surprised more of those mounts don't fail.
> *



Anyone with a little common sense should have noticed how weak the mount is. It has no gussets or any kind of reinforcement. Like u said it was only intended to keep pinion angle right. The panhard bar was to keep the axle centered under the car and keep out the sway.


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

:angry:


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

damn never saw it breka there before! shitty...

that is thin tho...


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Oct 20 2010, 08:06 PM~18865722
> *damn never saw it breka there before! shitty...
> 
> that is thin tho...
> *


It looks like it's 11ga, Which I think would work fine if there was some sort of flexible joint.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Oct 20 2010, 09:17 PM~18865866
> *It looks like it's 11ga, Which I think would work fine if there was some sort of flexible joint.
> *


Plus the mount is off the back of the axle and not in the factory location. Then take into account the angle of the y bone that has to support the axle and keep it from rolling and it breaks at the weak point. Especially from lifting and lowering is like what another person said of taking a piece of metal and bending it back and forth until it breaks. It even appears hat if the car was layer low enough that Y bone sat on top of the pumpkin right where it snapped. That's what probably broke it from the car being lowered and the Y bone getting slammed on top the axle

So when the car was at it's lowest point and while driving the springs collapsed allowing the Y bone to travel with them


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

good eye kingfish that pinion angle is NUTS... gotta fix that too and it definetely looks like it was hitting when dropped


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## 3whlcmry (Dec 17, 2004)

i think his pinion angle got fuckued up from the y bone breakin and nothing there to keep it straight, when mine broke it swung back farther where my driveshaft came apart at the slip


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 3whlcmry_@Oct 21 2010, 05:36 PM~18873888
> *i think his pinion angle got fuckued up from the y bone breakin and nothing there to keep it straight, when mine broke it swung back farther where my driveshaft came apart at the slip
> *


 :werd:


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 3whlcmry_@Oct 21 2010, 06:36 PM~18873888
> *i think his pinion angle got fuckued up from the y bone breakin and nothing there to keep it straight, when mine broke it swung back farther where my driveshaft came apart at the slip
> *


This could be true but if that mount was too far back and low it would allow the arm to hit the top of the pumpkin. Although you could tell if his was the case by looking at the arm and top of linking to see if there's been metal to metal contact or if the arm has been indented


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## kmg108 (Jan 18, 2005)

that picture is deceiving. This is a y-bone, which means it doesnt mount to the top of the pumpkin like a wishbone does. It is mounted to the OG upper trailing arm mount, which is offset from the pumpkin. Anyway, that should not have broken like that. It does appear to be thinner than I would have used, but it still shouldn't have snapped. Sorry about your luck, homie. I hope you weren't driving when that happened.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by kmg108_@Oct 22 2010, 06:50 AM~18878586
> *that picture is deceiving. This is a y-bone, which means it doesnt mount to the top of the pumpkin like a wishbone does. It is mounted to the OG upper trailing arm mount, which is offset from the pumpkin. Anyway, that should not have broken like that. It does appear to be thinner than I would have used, but it still shouldn't have snapped. Sorry about your luck, homie. I hope you weren't driving when that happened.
> *


This is a Y-bone. The Y-bone mounts to the factory banana bar location. Wishbones mount to the top of the pumpkin.


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## kmg108 (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Oct 22 2010, 10:43 AM~18878888
> *This is a Y-bone. The Y-bone mounts to the factory banana bar location. Wishbones mount to the top of the pumpkin.
> *


That's what I just said. The banana bar is technically called the upper trailing arm. :thumbsup:


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## 3whlcmry (Dec 17, 2004)

this is how low mine sits with a ford 9" and it cleared everything nothing would hit


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## 3whlcmry (Dec 17, 2004)

:angry: :angry: mine


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

in my opinion its because the left arm twists teh whole piece.. its only natural that it gives.. 

SEVERAL solid ones have broken.. we have yet to see a broken one with teh hiem joint


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## avengemydeath (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 3whlcmry_@Oct 22 2010, 10:33 AM~18879252
> *:angry:  :angry: mine
> 
> 
> ...


put that bottom one in the middle, relocate the bracket to the pumkin, it should evenly displace the tension  that is what im doing in the mean time till I design a 4 link


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## westsidehydros (Nov 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by avengemydeath_@Oct 22 2010, 03:12 PM~18880861
> *put that bottom one in the middle, relocate the bracket to the pumkin, it should evenly displace the tension  that is what im doing in the mean time till I design a 4 link
> *



i've never seen a 4 link that actually looked good and could function as well. it allways seems like the uppers end up too short and theyhave to mount right on top of rear end. i've also seen them mounted to bottom of frame, for better lift, but than they bind when layed out. anyone ever seen any diff?


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

This design will fail regardless of material or joint/bushing choices. The tube that cuts across from the driver side has nowhere near enough triangulation. The long unsupported length of tubing going to the rearend can not keep up with the amount of load placed on it. I don't even think a gusset would be enough to insure it wouldn't fail.


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## 3whlcmry (Dec 17, 2004)

im going with a wishbone with the reinforce plate instead and stop screwing around with the ybone


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## 68impalatattooman (Mar 23, 2009)

> _Originally posted by 3whlcmry_@Oct 22 2010, 06:25 PM~18883038
> *im going with a wishbone with the reinforce plate instead and stop screwing around with the ybone
> *


if you get yours back ill buy it...lmk.............


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by kmg108_@Oct 22 2010, 07:50 AM~18878586
> *that picture is deceiving. This is a y-bone, which means it doesnt mount to the top of the pumpkin like a wishbone does. It is mounted to the OG upper trailing arm mount, which is offset from the pumpkin. Anyway, that should not have broken like that. It does appear to be thinner than I would have used, but it still shouldn't have snapped. Sorry about your luck, homie. I hope you weren't driving when that happened.
> *


ive actually seen people make a mount off the back side of the pumpkin and install a Y bone like that lol...but ya it is deceiving..i was using my iphone to look at it...


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

:uh:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

:naughty: :biggrin:


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## westsidehydros (Nov 23, 2002)

I actuallly just saw a pic of a 61 with a 4 link, sept 06' traditional lowriding mag. green 61 rag from NewCrowd cc pg 53 shows it locked up, looks good. and lays out too!


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## westsidehydros (Nov 23, 2002)

diff. car, but you get idea


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by westsidehydros_@Oct 24 2010, 10:02 PM~18898049
> *diff. car, but you get idea
> 
> 
> ...


vert chevy bel air?


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