# DO YOU WANNA SAVE MORE MONEY?



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

I just wanted to post this up to help some about polishing their own trim, it can be expensive, so do it yourself if you have the time! It is time consuming but worth it! The top pic is a picture of a scratched up weathered peice and a same peice sitting above it! The peice above it was sanded with 220 in one direction left to right long ways and warm water until it was all the way dull! (Do not sand in a circular motion cause this will leave swirls out the ass!) Sand left to right or up and down only! I sanded in the direction of the peice length only a 1/4 at a time then ran over the whole thing with long strokes of 220 grit and warm water! The peice on top is how it should look (dull)!

heres a lil info from another company

http://www.iversonautomotive.com/aluminum.htm


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

:0 :cheesy:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Once its all sanded with 220 half the battle is over! Next repeat the same sanding method with warm water and 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000, 1200,1500, and last 2000! When finished with 2000 get some good aluminum polish and a soft rag and apply it on to the trim peice in a swift left to right motion following the lenthg your working on.! your rag will soon turn a dark blackish/gray film then take a clean cloth and wipe down gently! Check it out! This was done by hand! Bling Bling! Almost Chrome! So save your money and doit yourself p.s. if you have the time! :biggrin:


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## 64KyBelair (Dec 6, 2004)

:thumbsup:


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

wow since u have the time can u do mine lol 

thanks for the info i will try one day


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Bowtie Legacy_@Mar 12 2006, 03:38 PM~5032525
> *wow since u have the time can u do mine lol
> 
> thanks for the info i will try one day
> *


 :biggrin:


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## montemanls (Oct 16, 2005)

the chrome shops sell "cicel" dont know how to spell iit put it on a buffer at 2200 rpms and saves alot time also :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by montemanls_@Mar 12 2006, 03:57 PM~5032642
> *the chrome shops sell "cicel" dont know how to spell iit put it on a buffer at 2200 rpms and saves alot time also :biggrin:
> *


yeah i have heard of it! do you have a pic of it? Theres all kinds of wheels and compounds for polishing!


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

> _Originally posted by montemanls_@Mar 12 2006, 02:57 PM~5032642
> *the chrome shops sell "cicel" dont know how to spell iit put it on a buffer at 2200 rpms and saves alot time also :biggrin:
> *


thanks


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## show-bound (Apr 5, 2004)

dremel tool with polishing tips is what i am using


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## lowrider_620 (Apr 14, 2004)

what if the chrome on the trim is bubbleing


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

excellent topic :thumbsup:


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## Custom Jim (Jul 6, 2004)

I have been polishing things for my car and others through the years and have just a basic polisher, but it works. I also use some welding gloves as the parts can get real hot to try and hold.

If the chrome plate on a piece of trim is bubbled, then the part needs to be stripped and replated.

Jim


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

ttt I need to get me one of those!


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## Tuna_Sammich (Aug 27, 2003)

i got the same thing, made from and old furnace blower motor, an adapter spindle, and a 5 dollar buffing wheel from home depot...


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## 81 Hustle (May 12, 2005)

you can avoid sanding off the anodizing by using common household cleaners.


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## warning (Oct 31, 2005)

this is a cool topic and all but if you take off the anodizing with all those 
different grits and compounds the shit won't keep looking that good, it'll dull.


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## EazyE10286 (Sep 11, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 12 2006, 02:27 PM~5032464
> *Once its all sanded with 220 half the battle is over! Next repeat the same sanding method with warm water and 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000, 1200,1500, and last 2000!  When finished with 2000 get some good aluminum polish and a soft rag and apply it on to the trim peice in a swift circular motion! your rag will soon turn a dark blackish/gray film then take a clean cloth and wipe down gently! Check it out!  This was done by hand!  Bling Bling!      Almost Chrome!    So save your money and doit yourself p.s. if you have the time! :biggrin:
> *



Can you do all of this just by hand?Or do you have to have any special tools?


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## 61 Impala on 3 (Sep 30, 2003)

So, are you going to keep cleaning that part over and over every month? You might consider using the Zoop Seal on it. They also make a clear for bare metal. 

Oh and you could have used a costic acid to stip the anodizing off first. You would have had less sanding to do.


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by warning_@Mar 12 2006, 09:00 PM~5036762
> *this is a cool topic and all but if you take off the anodizing with all those
> different grits and compounds the shit won't keep looking that good, it'll dull.
> *


mines still blingin, and i drive it daily rain and all. hasnt dulled on me yet. when homie sands it with the 220, im sure the anodizinge is coming off. the cleaners 81 hustle mention takes it off and you dont have to deal with sanding... :dunno: im sure everyone has different ways to get to the same point


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

The reason for 220 is to mainly remove deep ass scratches! LYE chemical(caustic soda) strips the anodize off. I beileive zoop will seal it for a while once polished!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by EazyE10286_@Mar 13 2006, 01:35 AM~5037339
> *Can you do all of this just by hand?Or do you have to have any special tools?
> *


I perfer tools but it can be done by hand as well it just takes alot longer! I was just posting this for some that didnt have no tools to work with!


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 13 2006, 02:35 PM~5040956
> *I perfer tools but it can be done by hand as well it just takes alot longer!  I was just posting this for some that didnt have no  tools to work with!
> *


:thumbsup:

we did it by hand using sand paper first, then a palm sander, then we figured out some household cleaners disolve the anodizing... found out most of the scratches were in the anodizing.


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

:twak: layitlow server


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## decifer (Jul 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 13 2006, 03:32 PM~5040931
> * The reason for 220 is to mainly remove deep ass scratches!  What material did you say strips the anodize off?  I beileive zoop will seal it for a while!
> *


 heavy duty easy off oven cleaner works great for removing anodize :biggrin:


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## decifer (Jul 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Coast One_@Mar 13 2006, 03:53 PM~5041057
> *:twak: layitlow server
> *


tell me about it


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by decifer_@Mar 13 2006, 02:54 PM~5041065
> *heavy duty easy off oven cleaner works great for removing anodize  :biggrin:
> *


 :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

So oven cleaner will work? never tried it, only industrial drain cleaner ive used. what i use is 100% lye


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 13 2006, 02:59 PM~5041122
> *  So oven cleaner will work?
> *


yea... actually its the chemical LYE that does it...


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 13 2006, 03:06 PM~5041167
> *Good now i can just sand the deep scratches then chemical the rest!
> *


chemical it first then see whats left...


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

so if you do this procedure when its all done its gonna keep dulling cus of no anodizing?


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 83Cizzoupe_@Mar 13 2006, 03:25 PM~5041358
> *so if you do this procedure when its all done its gonna keep dulling cus of no anodizing?
> *


mine lasted all last summer... i drive it in the rain this winter, when i wash the car it still blings. havent had it dull. only 1 part has dulled, and it was the one that i didnt polish too good, it was good enough. but it wasnt as nice as the rest that one dulled like in a week. so i had to redo it. the only thing i can think of is that it didnt get polished correctly. 
after polishing out a strip we set it next to a brand new clean anodized one... the difference? the one with no anodizing looked like i was looking into chrome water... thats the only way i can describe it. havent had a problem with dulling so :dunno:


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

what is zoop and where do you get it? Is it a spray on ?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

I think its like a paste wax?


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## lowrider_620 (Apr 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Custom Jim_@Mar 12 2006, 06:57 PM~5034436
> *I have been polishing things for my car and others through the years and have just a basic polisher, but it works. I also use some welding gloves as the parts can get real hot to try and hold.
> 
> If the chrome plate on a piece of trim is bubbled, then the part needs to be stripped and replated.
> ...


thats what i thought, off to the caddy dealership. does anyone happen to know what spray i could use on a 96 black cadillac the trim right below the back window around the bottom of the rag top. it use to be black but the blacks fading off.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

scuff it down good and use trim black made by sem


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

scuff it down good and use trim black made by sem MAN THIS SERVER SUCKS A FAT ONE! :angry:


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## EazyE10286 (Sep 11, 2003)

Can you do this on chrome bumpers or does it have to be stainless steel??


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by EazyE10286_@Mar 14 2006, 10:02 PM~5049870
> *Can you do this on chrome bumpers or does it have to be stainless steel??
> *


has to be anodized aluminum. stainless or chrome wont work unfortunatly by using lye\caustic soda!


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 13 2006, 10:17 PM~5042582
> *I think its like a paste wax?
> *



big caddy is this zoop something you can pick up at an auto parts store? and would you put it on after you polished it with aluminum polish or just polish it with this only? Will it keep it shining?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 83Cizzoupe_@Mar 14 2006, 10:16 PM~5050001
> *big caddy is this zoop something you can pick up at an auto parts store? and would you put it on after you polished it with aluminum polish or just polish it with this only? Will it keep it shining?
> *


I think it has to be ordered out of eastwood magazine, and you wax it on after you have finished the final polish!


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## BuThatsaCHRYSLER (Mar 19, 2002)

call me silly but does the lye help you to sjip all the sanding?????

lye, polish, then zoop?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by BuThatsaCHRYSLER_@Mar 14 2006, 11:25 PM~5050281
> *call me silly but does the lye help you to sjip all the sanding?????
> 
> lye, polish, then zoop?
> *


what about the deep scratches past the anodize?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Man this server! WTF?


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 14 2006, 11:14 PM~5050199
> *I think it has to be ordered out of eastwood magazine, and you wax it on after you have finished the final polish!
> *


 :thumbsup: thanks homie


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## childforsaken (Sep 17, 2003)

ive been trying to do my own as well i tried different rouge's as well as buffing wheels slow process and im not getting all the scratches out and its still cloudy :angry: its passable to some but im very picky.... fucking sucks!.........
$600.00 bucks for my plater to do it (all labor)


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## dippin84cutty (Feb 19, 2006)

so the process is spray oven cleaner on the part clean of ,polish ,then seal with zoop just making sure thats the thing to do


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

you got to remember your only polishing it, so to restore the part you have to annodise it.

if you just want it "chinee" this is a real good way to get it done.

just wont look like new, because thats not the original finish.

:thumbsup:


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

also , for other stainless and aluminum, try using toothpaste, it has a fine grit that will polish up nice, rub it on there, scothcbrite pad or something similar in a bout 5 min of rubbing you will have a nice shiny peice


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Mar 16 2006, 09:57 AM~5058905
> *you got to remember your only polishing it, so to restore the part you have to annodise it.
> 
> if you just want it "chinee" this is a real good way to get it done.
> ...


 If i do all the hard work like polishing where can you get it re anodized at?


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## Coast One (Feb 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Mar 16 2006, 06:57 AM~5058905
> *you got to remember your only polishing it, so to restore the part you have to annodise it.
> 
> if you just want it "chinee" this is a real good way to get it done.
> ...


im not looking for original finish, i cant see myself in original finish.

you cant just spray once, you have to make sure all of the anodize has melted away or come off. it is a lot of work, and i see how platers charge so much for doing the job.but if you have the time and are willing to put in work... then you just saved yourself those 600 bucks


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 16 2006, 10:53 AM~5059518
> *If i do all the hard work like polishing where can you get it re anodized at?
> *


local plater is best bet in that, put side by side a unrestored piece and it looks different than the polished one, i like the polished look more than the anodized, just that the polished does not last as long, unless you coated withc such products as mentioned earlier


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

:thumbsup:


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

ttt


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

:biggrin:


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## 61 Impala on 3 (Sep 30, 2003)

This is a great site I ran across on anodizing. It tells you how to strip it as well as put it back on. Check it out.

Anodizing Aluminum


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

good tips, lets make sure we keep this thread alive with tips on cleaning up and polishing trim and chrome.


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

Polishing Kit I was thinkin of gettin sumthin like this, think it would be worth it??


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Mar 22 2006, 04:35 PM~5100283
> *Polishing Kit I was thinkin of gettin sumthin like this, think it would be worth it??
> *


Finally got another one done, i will eventually get them all done now that i know how to get the anodizing off! They look chrome!!!! :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Im thinking about doing this for a living, I got pretty good at it way too fast! LOL!


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## Nasty (Aug 4, 2004)

If i were to buy the Anodizing sealer, it should take care of the problem with it dulling right??


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Nasty84_@Mar 22 2006, 05:41 PM~5100695
> *If i were to buy the Anodizing sealer, it should take care of the problem with it dulling right??
> *


 I dont know if you can just use it like that if you polish them then use there sealer?


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## Nasty (Aug 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 22 2006, 02:45 PM~5100715
> *I dont know if you can just use it like that if you polish them then use there sealer?
> *


im not sure how to use it really. im pretty sure the parts have to soak in it. but thats what im askin. does it have to be 180 degrees to work :dunno: 

cuz if u think about ti. u could do it all your self like u said. and spend 30 bucks on some sealer and never have to worrie about it dulling out


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Nasty84_@Mar 22 2006, 05:55 PM~5100800
> *im not sure how to use it really. im pretty sure the parts have to soak in it. but thats what im askin. does it have to be 180 degrees to work  :dunno:
> 
> cuz if u think about ti. u could do it all your self like u said. and spend 30 bucks on some sealer and never have to worrie about it dulling out
> *


Yeah I want to know the same thing bro, i just want the sealer to re coat after i polished it!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

ttt


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Nasty84_@Mar 22 2006, 04:41 PM~5100695
> *If i were to buy the Anodizing sealer, it should take care of the problem with it dulling right??
> *


yes, seal it and your polish will last, that zoops sealer shit works goood too.



:thumbsup:


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## Custom Jim (Jul 6, 2004)

Here's a link to some stuff I deanodized:

http://hometown.aol.com/krystaldesigns/pageA28.html



Process I used for Anodizing Removal: 

How I removed the factory anodizing off of the aluminum parts (hatchback glass outside trim and later from the rest of the trim on the front end) on a 1974 Chevrolet Spirit Of America I am restoring: 


First tried buffing the material off with Ebony rouge but it took too long, generated a bunch of heat on the part, and could not get into the hard to reach area’s without excessive pressure and loss of detail on the part.
Tried sanding it with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper (wet) but ran into the same problem as above.
Tried some spray on Foam Oven Cleaner but could not monitor the progress of the anodizing removal as the foam would have to be wiped off and then reapplied. 
Next I mixed up some Drano Drain Cleaner with water in a large tub to immerse one section of the hatch trim molding. Used 1 container (1 Quart) Drain Cleaner with about 7 gallons of tap water. Immersed one section of the molding and monitored it’s progress. The water is a little milky but you can see to the bottom of the container and the part surface.


After 0.5 hours there was some fizzing coming off of the molding but the anodizing was still on the part.
After 1.0 hours the part was still fizzing and still had anodizing on it.
After 1.5 hours the part was still fizzing and some of the anodizing was gone
After 2.0 hours the part was still fizzing and then took the part out of the immersion tank and used a steel wool pad and tap water to remove the remaining anodized layer.


The part now has the anodizing removed even in the hard to reach groove but it will need to be polished to remove the scratches from the steel wool.


Will try a finer grit steel wool on the next section (used #3 the first time).


Went over the section that was stripped and hit with #3 steel wool and it buffed out pretty easy using white rouge. 

I tried the Drano solution on another part the next day and it didn’t seem to work. I wonder if the solution went flat ?. Tried a part overnight for 8 hours and the solution did not work.


Picked up 2 cans of spray oven cleaner (foaming) to try on the other hatch window trimand the hood edge. This just didn’t seem to work.


I then picked up a 16oz. Container of Red Devil Lye drain cleaner ($5.08 w/tax) to try. put about 10 gallons of hot water into container and added 8oz of Lye into water. Stirred in the Lye (it went to the bottom and some stuck on the container but it dissolved). Put in some parts and after a few minutes they started fizzing. Pulled the parts out and they had a white film on them. Took the garden hose with cold water and some “00” steel wool and cleaned off the white film. You could still see where there was still some anodizing left on the parts (shiny not dull like the stripped aluminum). Put the parts back in for a while and monitored their progress and kept taking the steel wool and water on the part until all of the old anodizing was removed. Took one part and started buffing it with white rouge. Looks good. 


Took a 4” piece of PVC tube with an end cap that was long enough to strip the driveshaft earlier with Muratic acid and filled it with warm water and added about 2 ounces of Lye to it. Stirred it in to mix it and put in whole hood edge and a little over half of the trim panel that goes under the front end grill.


I also found out that using hot water when possible reduces the soaking time. 




Also from another site about the process:

http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35231


Aluminum polishing vs. anodizing
*The advantages of polished aluminum*
1. Brighter than anodizing
2. Stained parts can be polished by hand on vehicle
3. Pits aren't as magnified as anodized parts

*The disadvantages of polished aluminum*
1. Requires occasional cleaning by hand

*Advantages to anodizing*
1. Other than part being coated, there are none

*The disadvantages to anodizing*
1. Pits are magnified twice as much than polished
2. If your anodized part is stained, you must remove the part and re-anodize it.



Jim


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

thanks for that info bro! I tried oven cleaner last night i let it sit on the part the whole night when i checked it this morning it didnt do shit, so I thought about using airplane stripper? Do you think it would work cause that shit gets hot!


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## Custom Jim (Jul 6, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 23 2006, 06:27 PM~5107741
> *thanks for that info bro! I tried oven cleaner last night i let it sit on the part the whole night when i checked it this morning it didnt do shit, so I thought about using airplane stripper? Do you think it would work cause that shit gets hot!
> *


I had tried the oven cleaner on my stuff and it didn't work and that's why I tried something else and found out the Red Devil Lye Drain Cleaner did work for me. I tried it on a test piece first because if it didn't work, no big deal.

Try the Red Devil Lye Drain Cleaner like I did in hot water on a test piece and see what happens. Follow along with what I did also. Chances are it will work for you but just monitor it and don't walk away and come back to it the next day. 
The Lye has worked for me and others. I've heard of guys getting the oven cleaner to work but I've also heard more from others that it doesn't. It could be the brand, method, who knows. 
Leave the airplane stripper to removing paint off of a surface. I don't think it will do anything to anodized aluminum but it "could" make the part junk. Try it if you want. I tried oven cleaner and came across the lye and that did work. May not for you though but ???????. If you have extra time and money to blow, try everything except the lye. I'm a cheap bastard and once I find something that works for others I then try it myself and a lot of times it does work BUT not always like the oven cleaner. 

Jim


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

custom jim will that red devil be safe to use in the bathtub? I got some long pieces I wanna do. Also what is the white rough you talked about polishing with?

Also if its a car driven alot during the summer and will probably see frequent rain is it just safer to have it re-anodized?


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## Custom Jim (Jul 6, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 83Cizzoupe_@Mar 23 2006, 09:34 PM~5108895
> *custom jim will that red devil be safe to use in the bathtub? I got some long pieces I wanna do. Also what is the white rough you talked about polishing with?
> 
> Also if its a car driven alot during the summer and will probably see frequent rain is it just safer to have it re-anodized?
> *


While it could be done in a bathtub or any other container I would worry about damage to the tub. On my stuff I picked up a cheap plastic storage bucket about 18" wide by 24" deep, by about 16" tall with a snap on lid to soak my stuff. Some trim parts didn’t fit and if I could get half of it in the solution I would work that half and then turn it around and do the other half or with the hood trim molding on my car it fit into a 4" diameter piece of PVC tubing.
Replacing a tub or having it refinished would cost a LOT more than a bunch of plastic storage tubs.
I also use the same plastic tub to dissolve rust on parts using muriatic acid and while the tub has not had any leaks from the solutions I have put into it the tub it allows it to be located outside and away from things. 

To seal it up I would try the Zoop stuff. Mine has not been out as yet in the weather so I do not know what works yet. You could always have it reanodized but being polished looks better to me. It might be more maintanence but that's the price you pay sometimes.

Jim


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Ok check it out! I got this stuff i found at lowes that is 100% LYE and stripped a section in less than 1 minute! I used half a bucket of warm water then a full spray can top of that stuff I bought! I took his advice and bought a 5 foot pvc pipe with end caps to put mouldings in and let them soak checkin gevery 10 minutes, make sure to check to see f they are dull yet! I was amazed how quick this shit ate of that coating thanks bro! The long peice was a result of the polishing i saved 3 hours of sanding and still had the same results after polished! Bling bling!


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## Custom Jim (Jul 6, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 24 2006, 10:01 PM~5115245
> *Ok check it out!  I got this stuff i found at lowes that is 100% LYE and stripped a section  in less than 1 minute!  I used half a bucket of warm water then a full spray can top of that stuff I bought!  I took his advice and bought a 5 foot pvc pipe with end caps to put moulgings in and soak!  I was amazed how quick this shit ate of that coating thanks bro!  The long peice was a result of the polishing i saved 3 hours of sanding and still had the same results after polished! Bling bling!
> *


Glad it worked for you. How big was the container and how much $'s. I can add this to the list of what works and how much it is.

Now you can see how fast it can work but you may want to back down the strength of the solution some to where you have more control as to how much is removed. If it was only in a minute and it did that much work you gotta think what if anything would be left if you had a phone call and came back 10 minutes later and the part might be junk. Yeah it's nice to have things work fast but too fast can be a problem too. 

That tube if it's a 4" diameter you can save to where later if you want to strip rust off of the driveshaft you can use it again but change the solution to muriatic acid and water.

The nice thing about the lye and water solution is you can pour it down the drain and now clean the pipes in your house. Double duty.

You can also take some 00 (double 0) or 000 (triple 0) steel wool to scrub the residue off of the part and those scratches are easily polished out.

Jim


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## BigBoyTransporting (Jun 19, 2003)

after you polish it you can you spray bull dogg over it to keep that shine?


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

no bulldog is just an adhesion promoter for plastics


it does NOT protect anything


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Custom Jim_@Mar 25 2006, 12:02 AM~5115566
> *Glad it worked for you. How big was the container and how much $'s. I can add this to the list of what works and how much it is.
> 
> Now you can see how fast it can work but you may want to back down the strength of the solution some to where you have more control as to how much is removed. If it was only in a minute and it did that much work you gotta think what if anything would be left if you had a phone call and came back 10 minutes later and the part might be junk. Yeah it's nice to have things work fast but too fast can be a problem too.
> ...


The pvc pipe was 5 1/2 feet long and a diameter of 4 1/2 inches i think! It cost $12 bucks then the end caps were like $5 each, also the chemical was $8! So for about $32 dollars it was on! Yeah Im going to dulute the chemical more next time! I was amazed on how great it worked!


----------



## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

are you guys polishing by hand or using some kind of wheel?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 83Cizzoupe_@Mar 25 2006, 05:49 PM~5118843
> *are you guys polishing by hand or using some kind of wheel?
> *


I do all mine by hand because using a machine wheel can make swirls if your not careful!


----------



## JustCruisin (Jan 19, 2004)

All this chemical talk sounds like your "Cooking Meth" :biggrin:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JustCruisin_@Mar 25 2006, 06:03 PM~5118895
> *All this chemical talk sounds like your "Cooking Meth" :biggrin:
> 
> 
> ...


Oh god no!  They looked at me funny when I went to buy this stuff at lowes, they probably thought i was up to something! Things you do for the love of detail!


----------



## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

nice job guys


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Ok i have to say this is some powerful shit! I wanted to demostrate the power of this stuff so I left a couple of peices in that pvc pipe for 1 hours then I got a call from my neighbor and he thought my house was on fire! It was just them peices in the tube! When i poured the chemical out there was barely nothing left! They was like paper !LOL! Totally demolished!


----------



## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)




----------



## JustCruisin (Jan 19, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 26 2006, 07:33 PM~5124665
> *Ok i have to say this is some powerful shit! I wanted to demostrate the power of this stuff so I left a couple of peices in that pvc pipe for 1 hours then I got a call from my neighbor and he thought my house was on fire! It was just them peices in the tube! When i poured the chemical out there was barely nothing left! They was like paper !LOL! Totally demolished!
> *


That's why I was joking about you "cookin". Cuz, where I'm from,"The Meth Capital of the World" people are mixin chemicals & blowing their faces off & burning their houses down. So...BE CAREFUL WITH CHEMICALS!!


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JustCruisin_@Mar 28 2006, 05:02 PM~5136640
> *That's why I was joking about you "cookin".  Cuz, where I'm from,"The Meth Capital of the World" people are mixin chemicals & blowing their faces off & burning their houses down.  So...BE CAREFUL WITH CHEMICALS!!
> *


No doubt bro! I had a minor case of chemical burn before on my hands but i shook it off!


----------



## Nasty (Aug 4, 2004)

:thumbsup: 
i gotta try this shit out


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 26 2006, 08:33 PM~5124665
> *Ok i have to say this is some powerful shit! I wanted to demostrate the power of this stuff so I left a couple of peices in that pvc pipe for 1 hours then I got a call from my neighbor and he thought my house was on fire! It was just them peices in the tube! When i poured the chemical out there was barely nothing left! They was like paper !LOL! Totally demolished!
> *



so whats the ABSOLUTE longest you can leave this shit in, i dont wanna damage anything.......Also are you just completley filling up that pipe with this stuff? That would be a lot of cans


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

On a five foot pipe I use 70% warm water then on the can of lye 15 to 20% I would check it every 3 minutes to be safe Its a god idea to keep an eye on it !


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## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Nasty84_@Mar 30 2006, 10:39 AM~5149090
> *  :thumbsup:
> i gotta try this shit out
> *


yea me too


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## Torx (Jul 26, 2002)

hahahah, nice to see polishing threads have evolved into more elaborate great resulting tips!!


the draino idea is new to me..

ive always either sanded it down read good or used easy off heavy duty stove cleaner.
you gotta wear a mask with that shit or else itll burn through your skin and lungs!!

whats the final verdict of polish/seal to use after mother's aluminum polishing????


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Torx_@Apr 1 2006, 08:34 PM~5163037
> *hahahah, nice to see polishing threads have evolved into more elaborate great resulting tips!!
> the draino idea is new to me..
> 
> ...


 The was results were mouth watering! LOL!


----------



## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Torx_@Apr 1 2006, 08:34 PM~5163037
> *
> 
> whats the final verdict of polish/seal to use after mother's aluminum polishing????
> *



sounds like someting called zoop is what these guys are using


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 83Cizzoupe_@Apr 2 2006, 09:58 PM~5168134
> *sounds like someting called zoop is what these guys are using
> *


yes


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## Nasty (Aug 4, 2004)

what about with stainless? is there a different polish u have to use for that??


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

ttt


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## 61 Impala on 3 (Sep 30, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Torx_@Apr 1 2006, 08:34 PM~5163037
> *hahahah, nice to see polishing threads have evolved into more elaborate great resulting tips!!
> the draino idea is new to me..
> 
> ...


Zoop, Eastwood has a clear for bare metal, Powdercoat clear, or reanodize for a factory look.


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## Torx (Jul 26, 2002)

i got plans to do this... lol

but cant we get cancer from using this shit like this?? lmao


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Torx_@Apr 10 2006, 05:10 AM~5212066
> *i got plans to do this... lol
> 
> but cant we get cancer from using this shit like this??  lmao
> *


 :twak: :twak:


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

I went out and bought the 4in pipe and drain cleaner.......oh and some cement for one of the end caps. Now what kind of polish do I use after i remove it from the pipe? Is there a special kind I need to buy?


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 15 2006, 09:44 PM~5250039
> *I went out and bought the 4in pipe and drain cleaner.......oh and some cement for one of the end caps. Now what kind of polish do I use after i remove it from the pipe? Is there a special kind I need to buy?
> *


Will Mother's Polish do?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 15 2006, 08:44 PM~5250039
> *I went out and bought the 4in pipe and drain cleaner.......oh and some cement for one of the end caps. Now what kind of polish do I use after i remove it from the pipe? Is there a special kind I need to buy?
> *


After it removes all anodized coating you still will need to sand it with 220 to 1500 use finer and finer grits but sand with warm water and in one direction not in a circular motion cause that will leave swirls! Sanding left to right works great and make sure its long strokes tho !  Mothers works perfect if you polish in the same direction that you sanded(LEFT TO RIGHT) then wipe off the polish in one direction/one way (NOT CIRCULAR OR LEFT TO RIGHT) !!!! ( BE real gentle For that swirl free shine!) :biggrin:


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Apr 15 2006, 10:54 PM~5250440
> *After it removes all anodized coating you still will need to sand it with 220 to 1500 use finer and finer grits but sand with warm water and in one direction not in a circular motion cause that will leave swirls! Sanding left to right works great and make sure its long strokes tho !   Mothers works perfect if you polish in the same direction  that you sanded(LEFT TO RIGHT) then wipe off the polish in one direction/one way (NOT CIRCULAR OR LEFT TO RIGHT) !!!! ( BE real gentle For that swirl free shine!) :biggrin:
> *


Ok thanks how long do you sand for each grit of sandpaper?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 17 2006, 02:38 PM~5260073
> *Ok thanks how long do you sand for each grit of sandpaper?
> *


Till you think you got all the deeper scratches out with the finer grit! You can tell if you use warm water cause the scratches will get finer and the paper wont bite on the aluminum as much!


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

ok I will start today on my first piece


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## californiacamino (Mar 3, 2006)

I tried using drano to de-anodize my aluminum but it didn't work that great. I spent $8 on a can of drano and then realized i better take it to a place. I found an electro plating in fresno that chemical strippped all my aluminum parts for 1 vehicle for $20 bucks. In other words, for about $12 bucks more someone does it for you and it is the right way. When I stripped some parts with drano they didn't come out as white as they are supposed to look like. With the stripping electro-plating of fresno provived i didn't have to use sandpaper after the stripping was done cauze parts were "baked" solid white. About the only part I can't polish is the grille cauze the spots are so tight to get into and would require more equipemnt other than my $35 buck buffer i picked up at Harbor Freight Tools. the grille is going to be $80 just to polish, imagine if I would have taken in everything.


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## ROBERT71MC (Nov 15, 2004)

IS THAT A TRAILER PARK


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## californiacamino (Mar 3, 2006)

yes


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## californiacamino (Mar 3, 2006)

The key part is to find out who does the electoplating in your area. Chrome shops take there stuff to electro plating places to do all the stages involved in chrome plating. Asking your local chrome shop where they get there electroplating or better yet if they do it themsleves.


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

ok the results are in: here is a before and after shot. Not a really good pic but you can she yourself in the shine. I Love It


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Yeah bro if you work with it more with warm water and finer grits of paper it will be like :0 :cheesy: Looking good!


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

yeah cause they didn't have any 2000 so i stopped at 1500 going back to get some at another place


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 19 2006, 05:26 AM~5270886
> *yeah cause they didn't have any 2000 so i stopped at 1500 going back to get some at another place
> *


I know yall gonna think Im crazy but I have tried 2000 after 1500 and 1500 works better so I stop at 1500! It seems like 2000 leaves more scratches/swirls! I know its a finer grit and all but 1500 works better for me! :biggrin:


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 18 2006, 04:05 PM~5267526
> *ok the results are in: here is a before and after shot. Not a really good pic but you can she yourself in the shine. I Love It
> *


nice :thumbsup:


----------



## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Bowtie Legacy_@Apr 19 2006, 11:42 PM~5275828
> *nice :thumbsup:
> *


thanks going to do more today


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 20 2006, 06:12 AM~5277172
> *thanks going to do more today
> *


ill send u mine and u can do it too :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Im gonna start doing them to make money if I can!


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Apr 20 2006, 04:55 PM~5280561
> *Im gonna start doing them to make money if I can!
> *


me too.....i feel ya on that one


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## japSW20 (Jan 13, 2005)

you people got alot of time on your hands,you must not have any fingerprints left! lol


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by japSW20_@Apr 23 2006, 04:20 PM~5298034
> *you people got alot of time on your hands,you must not have any fingerprints left! lol
> *


 LOL! :biggrin:


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## SELF MADE (Jun 20, 2004)

sick topic !!! best shit read on lil in a gang of time. i'm getting my collection of chemicals and pipes next week !!!! after reading all this i just gotta see this for myself. lol.

j.


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Apr 20 2006, 03:41 AM~5275616
> *I know yall gonna think Im crazy but I have tried 2000 after 1500 and 1500 works better so I stop at 1500!  It seems like 2000 leaves more scratches/swirls! I know its a finer grit and all but 1500 works better for me! :biggrin:
> *




just a question..........


are you soaking your paper for 20 minutes in warm water before you use it or are you getting the sanding bug and using it right out of the package???????


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Apr 28 2006, 08:42 AM~5331148
> *just a question..........
> are you soaking your paper for 20 minutes in warm water before you use it or are you getting the sanding bug and using it right out of the package???????
> *


I get sand happy right out of the package it dont take long to wear it out on that aluminum tho! :biggrin:


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

been slipping on the polishing, too busy working on the body, got a local car show this weekend, will jump back in the game starting monday


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 28 2006, 09:27 PM~5336107
> *been slipping on the  polishing, too busy working on the body, got a local car show this weekend, will jump back in the game starting monday
> *


Yeah I know I need to finish all mine its all de anodized just needs to be sanded and polished, I have been working on my body too! :biggrin:


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Mar 13 2006, 06:59 PM~5041122
> *  So oven cleaner will work?
> *


Red Devil Lye will work also.



just dont let it soak too long.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by TATTOO-76_@Apr 28 2006, 10:11 PM~5336348
> *Red Devil Lye will work also.
> just dont let it soak too long.
> *


Yeah I use 100% caustic soda aka (lye)! Works great! :biggrin:


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Apr 28 2006, 11:14 PM~5336365
> *Yeah I use 100% caustic soda aka (lye)!  Works great! :biggrin:
> *


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Apr 28 2006, 11:14 PM~5336365
> *Yeah I use 100% caustic soda aka (lye)!  Works great! :biggrin:
> *


I use the exact same thing


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

50% finished still on the grind

:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 30 2006, 01:10 PM~5343237
> *50% finished still on the grind
> 
> :biggrin:  :biggrin:  :biggrin:
> ...


    :worship: :thumbsup: Man thats great work! It takes time but i love the results! Dem look bling! :biggrin:


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

i got 3 more pieces soaking as we speak, waiting there time to shine


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## sixtyfourchevy (Aug 13, 2002)

A by-product of the reaction between aluminum and lye is hydrogen gas. Be careful not to blow your garage up.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixtyfourchevy_@Apr 30 2006, 01:28 PM~5343332
> *A by-product of the reaction between aluminum and lye is hydrogen gas.  Be careful not to blow your garage up.
> *


I use it outside! :biggrin:


----------



## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Apr 30 2006, 10:10 AM~5343237
> *50% finished still on the grind
> 
> :biggrin:  :biggrin:  :biggrin:
> ...


  :thumbsup: :thumbsup: uffin:


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

so how long on average do ya leave it in the lye?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@May 11 2006, 09:51 AM~5408523
> *so how long on average do ya leave it in the lye?
> *


for me its about 5 minutes I use alot! :biggrin:


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

and thats for stainless only , or does it strip chrome also?


----------



## decifer (Jul 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by slo_@May 13 2006, 08:08 AM~5420800
> *and thats for stainless only , or does it strip chrome also?
> *


it strips the anodizing off of stainless or aluminum, chrome dosent have anodizing


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by decifer_@May 13 2006, 09:33 AM~5420872
> *it strips the anodizing off of stainless  or aluminum, chrome dosent have anodizing
> *


so what can you strip chrome off with?


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

Is there anywhere to buy the sandpaper on the internet?? Its hard as hell to find the finer grits around me cuz i dont know of any good body shops


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

http://www.autobodydepot.net/scripts/depot...pgm=3m101-5.bbx

Try these guys!  

Alot of stuff here!


----------



## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@May 19 2006, 07:45 PM~5460204
> *http://www.autobodydepot.net/scripts/depot...pgm=3m101-5.bbx
> 
> Try these guys!
> ...



Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## Royalty (Nov 27, 2001)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Apr 28 2006, 10:14 PM~5336365
> *Yeah I use 100% caustic soda aka (lye)!  Works great! :biggrin:
> *


Where would one aquire some shit like that?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Royalty_@May 20 2006, 06:22 PM~5464680
> *Where would one aquire some shit like that?
> *


Lowes homie! :biggrin:


----------



## kromatized (Nov 13, 2002)

Great topic.

Anodizing is only on aluminium.

Stainless steel is not anodized.


----------



## kromatized (Nov 13, 2002)

You guys have done a great job working out a process to restore trim on a low budget. 

With stainless I know that you can rub it back polish it up and not have to seal it in any way as its stainless steel.

But with the aluminium what do you guys do to replace the re anodizing process at the end. Do you leave the part as roar polished aluminium? Do you coat it or seal it? Do you take it to a pro to re anodize?


Thanks


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

zoops to seal it


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@May 28 2006, 11:57 AM~5509258
> *zoops to seal it
> *


 :thumbsup:


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

WHATS ZOOP?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by cadillac88_@May 29 2006, 08:05 PM~5515974
> *WHATS ZOOP?
> *


Like a protective coating film ! supposed to last for a year I beleive!


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@May 29 2006, 06:47 PM~5516222
> *Like a protective coating film  ! supposed to last for a year I beleive!
> *


where can i get it


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

http://www.zoops.com


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## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

man that shits high is there anything else you can use to seal it with


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by cadillac88_@May 30 2006, 09:27 PM~5522797
> *man that shits high is there anything else you can use to seal it with
> *


My jizz! LOL! :cheesy: 



























J/k! 


nope there is some companies out there, but their product doesnt work as good, maybe for about week only then its time to re- seal!


----------



## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

TTT


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@May 30 2006, 04:09 PM~5521847
> *http://www.zoops.com
> 
> 
> *


do you get the $99 kit or which one


----------



## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

The $99 kit should be all you need depending on what your sealing. It comes with enough to do 30sq. Feet and thats alot. The kit above that comes with extra stuff like tire dressing and metal polish which you can buy on your own. But, it comes with enough to do 75sq. feet. Up to you!



Any more polishing Big Caddy???


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

thanks


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## kromatized (Nov 13, 2002)

I've heard of guys spraying there finished aluminium trim in 2k clear. Gives protection and a good shine...


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

Well after seeing all this wetsanding and polishing on here I decided, what the hell I'll give it a try since the Impala is out to paint anyways. Heres some pics of before and after. I'm not done on the after piece yet, its just where I'm at so far. 

BEFORE:

My Webpage

AFTER:

My Webpage

My Webpage

My Webpage

Alright now to finish it up. :biggrin: My fingers are turning to nubs!


----------



## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

looks good so far


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

:biggrin:


> _Originally posted by kandypaint_@Jun 1 2006, 09:17 PM~5535622
> *looks good so far
> *


 :thumbsup: :biggrin: :cheesy:


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

nice :thumbsup:


----------



## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

am i an idiot or sumthin?? i polished sum my aluminum and i actually went up to 2500 grit but it still isnt very shiny. the OG trim still on the car actually looks better


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

I used a little craftsman dremel to buff out the 2000 grit sanding, then went over it by hand with a cotton rag and mothers mag & aluminum polish. I'm not gonna lie, I dont know how big caddy did all them pieces because just this one bezel was alot of sanding. Hard work but it pays off.  Still got another bezel and grill to do this weekend!


----------



## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

Fine59Bel


> *am i an idiot or sumthin?? i polished sum my aluminum and i actually went up to 2500 grit but it still isnt very shiny. the OG trim still on the car actually looks better*


Just gotta keep polishing!


----------



## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Jun 2 2006, 06:29 PM~5541178
> *Fine59Bel
> 
> Just gotta keep polishing!
> ...


 :angry: thats wat i was afraid of :tears:


----------



## Reverend Hearse (Jan 2, 2006)

ttt


----------



## Swazo (May 31, 2006)

I thought I'd chime in with some shit I've learned along the way. I've polished a lot of cast aluminum engine parts and restored aluminum trim.

Don't rush the various grits that you use! Starting at 220 you should do all of the "cutting" needed to remove any scratches or any other blems. Once that is done, all you're really doing is removing the lower grit scratches once you jump up grits. Rush any grit, and you'll regret it as the previous grit scratches will show.... or you'll spend more time with a finer grit than you should to get them out.

Personally, I use 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000. Then it's ready to hand polish with Mother's aluminum polish and it should look tits.

What I really want to try is using buffing wheels with various compounds from places like Eastwood. I know the pro's use them and can turn out parts quick and flawless.

Sealing wise, I've always either left them raw (easily scratched though) or clear coated them (you loose a lot of the deep polished look). 
With Zoop, does it give any protection from scratching or does it keep it from dulling?


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

ttt


----------



## kromatized (Nov 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Swazo_@Jun 4 2006, 09:13 AM~5546016
> *I thought I'd chime in with some shit I've learned along the way. I've polished a lot of cast aluminum engine parts and restored aluminum trim.
> 
> Don't rush the various grits that you use! Starting at 220 you should do all of the "cutting" needed to remove any scratches or any other blems. Once that is done, all you're really doing is removing the lower grit scratches once you jump up grits. Rush any grit, and you'll regret it as the previous grit scratches will show.... or you'll spend more time with a finer grit than you should to get them out.
> ...



:thumbsup:


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

ttt


----------



## graham (Mar 18, 2002)

nice tips


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## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

damn takes a lot of sanding


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## Swazo (May 31, 2006)

Yeah it does, but that's if you're hand polishing everything.

My new method of madness will be to use a bench polisher, 1 spiral sewn 8" buffing wheel with tripoli compound, 1 loose section 8" buffing wheel with white rouge compound and MAYBE for a final step..... if it's even needed, I'll try another loose sectioned buffing wheel and jewlers rouge for the deepest shine.

The tripoli will take out 220 grit scratches in aluminum, so once the part that's getting polished is stripped of anodizing/clear coat you're ready to polish it with this setup (unless there is some minor sanding you need to do....).

If you already have a bench grinder, all you need to do is get adapter/extension and a polishing kit from Eastwood and you're set.


----------



## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

ttt


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Damn I never imagined when I posted up this thread that it would go this far! LOL! :biggrin:


----------



## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

LOL...useful information for those on a budget goes a long way! :thumbsup:


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

F8uck this! Man, does anyone know someone that does chroming close to the San Angelo, TX area? My f8ucking finger are nubs, and this shit takes forever and then to have to maintain it, its just not worth it. I'm gonna shine the other Bezel and call it quits. I got a midget hand on the one I sanded with!


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Jun 8 2006, 06:09 PM~5575796
> *F8uck this! Man, does anyone know someone that does chroming close to the San Angelo, TX area? My f8ucking finger are numbs, and this shit takes forever and then to have to maintain it, its just not worth it. I'm gonna shine the other Bezel and call it quits. I got a midget hand on the one I sanded with!
> *


 :roflmao: :roflmao: time consuming work yes, but beats paying out the ass for chrome! :biggrin:


----------



## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

I guess I can look at it that way.....time to start sanding with my strong hand.


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## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

if you use the crystal drain opener do you have to still sand as much or what


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by cadillac88_@Jun 8 2006, 09:55 PM~5577060
> *if you use the crystal drain opener do you have to still sand as much or what
> *


yes, but it does cut the anodize alot quicker cause its 100% lye! :biggrin:

Check it out on stuff like this its best to pace your self, Heres what I do, I will deanodize like 5 peices of trim at a time then I will do 2 peices a week! Eventually within 2 months I will have all my trim done! Thats the way I do it so it so it doesnt seem like i wont never get done! But Im also being patient cause im building a project you guys probably want to get it done and cruise right? :biggrin:


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

Yeah...after starting off with the headlight bezel, which was hard to stick my finger in all the tight spots that were originally painted black, I kinda lost my drive. I'm not gonna lie its hard work. I dont have a bench sander or polisher so I hand sand everything starting at 320 all the way up to 2000, then I hit it with a dremel with a polishing disc, then hand polish. It took me a whole day to just sand one piece. Now I started on the hood molding. I tell you what, all my pieces are straight as f8ck. But as soon as I strip the anodizing off and then begin sanding is when you notice all the little pits/nicks that you have to get out before moving on to the next grit. Time consuming it is! But I gotta get it done! Soon I'll be sanding with my elbow cuz thats all that will be left.


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

Here's the hood moulding I just finished.



















Time to start the grill !!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Jun 9 2006, 05:17 PM~5581533
> *Here's the hood moulding I just finished.
> 
> 
> ...


Fucking nice bro,  good job!


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

Thanks bro! You motivated me to keep going.... :biggrin:


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## Swazo (May 31, 2006)

Uh oh, now that you've got some sweet results like that..... it'll be addicting :biggrin: The first part that I got that nice, I wanted everything else as good


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## Swazo (May 31, 2006)

If anyone wanted to do cast aluminum, like intake manifolds or valve covers.... it's pretty easy too. Here are some parts that I did for the car I just sold.

















You just have to start with 40, 80 and 150 grits to cut the cast down smooth enough. Then it's just like the typical process (220 grit+) that has been mentioned by many people in this thread.


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

Damn that shit came out nice! Got alot of curves too...how long did it take you? 

I used 100% cotton balls for the final polish with mothers...results are almost flawless. I'm starting the grill tomorrow! Cant wait.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## UNION C.C. (Apr 25, 2006)

nice!


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

big caddy,..you polish anything up lately?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Swazo_@Jun 9 2006, 08:25 PM~5582384
> *Uh oh, now that you've got some sweet results like that..... it'll be addicting :biggrin:  The first part that I got that nice, I wanted everything else as good
> 
> 
> ...


That is very true! :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Jun 11 2006, 06:54 PM~5590414
> *big caddy,..you polish anything up lately?
> *


Nope i have been doing all kinds of different stuff lately, but when I get it all together I will take pics! :biggrin:


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

I see everything is still swangin in here.........

keep up the hard work................


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## californiacamino (Mar 3, 2006)

my anodized aluminum came out just like chrome. I been hearing though, that time will stain them again. I didn't get them re anodized becuase thats expensive. 

There's some sites that show u how to brew up a homemix using a battery charger but thats pretty risky and hazardous material to work with. Zoops seal is an alternattive but that 100 bucks.
I just put blue magic polish on the finished parts and that seems fine for now. Does anyone Know how long this shine will last? 
I 'll be posting pics of my 60 Chevy parts soon. I did all my buffing with tripoli and then the white rouge to finish. 

I took in all my aluminum and had it strippedfor $20. Having them professional stripped cuts way down on the buffing time cause they are really brought down to the metal.


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## ice64berg (Jan 21, 2002)

i tired polishing my intake by hand a few years ago .... man that had to been the best $175 (cant remeber exact $ but around there) that i have paid to buy one that was already polished .... i coulda made more money than that with the hours i wasted ...

well see i may try starting with a smaller piece next time ...


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

The aluminum should stay pretty shiney for a while as long as you dont neglect it. I did a motorcycle frame about 2 years ago and It stayed shiney. As long as every couple of car washes you rub it with a light coat of Mothers, she'll shine forever!


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## Booyaa63 (Nov 28, 2001)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Jun 9 2006, 06:17 PM~5581533
> *Here's the hood moulding I just finished.
> 
> 
> ...



looks good, now go clean that grout!!!


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## M.Cruz (Apr 15, 2005)

i gotta go try this uffin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by M.Cruz_@Jun 14 2006, 08:16 PM~5608865
> *i gotta go try this uffin:
> *


 :biggrin:


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## $PAPER ROUTE$ (Sep 25, 2005)

GOOD TOPIC


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## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

ttt again


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

:biggrin:


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

Does anyone know what the metal is on the front of a 59?? i think its aluminum but i dont wana start polishing it and srew it all up. i circled all the parts.


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

Some polished parts from germany :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Heres my trim all de-anodized ready for sanding!

















my pipe set-up









Bling Bling! :biggrin:


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## Tuna_Sammich (Aug 27, 2003)

looks great! now come do mine :biggrin:


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

How long that take you? I still have my grill in my dining room leaning against the wall....not really looking forward to sanding it...probably start again this week. So many little areas to sand on the grill. well, I'll post some pics when I finish.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Jun 19 2006, 09:29 PM~5635046
> *How long that take you? I still have my grill in my dining room leaning against the wall....not really looking forward to sanding it...probably start again this week. So many little areas to sand on the grill. well, I'll post some pics when I finish.
> *


I just did that one peice all the way yesterday and de-anodized the rest of them after.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Tuna_Sammich_@Jun 19 2006, 09:26 PM~5635026
> *looks great! now come do mine  :biggrin:
> *


 :biggrin:


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## juandik (Dec 31, 2001)

i didnt read the whole topic ...but if it' not in there ......

on aluminum parts for sure if you use wet/dry sand paper and water sand the part up to 2000grit paper..the finish will be awsome and the time on the polisher will be minimal ,also reducing the risk of the part bacoming wavy or rounded where the edges are square.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by juandik_@Jun 19 2006, 10:29 PM~5635418
> *i didnt read the whole topic ...but if it' not in there ......
> 
> on aluminum parts for sure if you  use wet/dry sand paper and water sand the part up to 2000grit paper..the finish will be awsome and the time on the polisher will be minimal ,also  reducing the risk of the part bacoming wavy or rounded where the edges are square.
> *


Yes it saves alot of heat transfer to the part because it doesnt have to be polished as long! :biggrin: they have wheels and coumpound bars to make it luster like chrome :biggrin: then you just need to seal it with zoops! :cheesy:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Aw yea Getting closer! I was told buy a man who does chroming in ohio that if I can get all my trim polished in this good of a luster than he would plate them for $8 a foot! So now thats whats going down! The labor of smoothing and polishing/prep work like what im doing is was costs when chrome plating, so Im still saving a shit load of money now that i have decided to get them all plated! :biggrin: Go big or go home! :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

pics do not give justice, these motherfuckers look like real deep chrome when done correctly! :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

I try to do a peice a day! If you look at the topp pic you can see the wrinkle factory finish on the trim most of the time they are painted a color to match the top from the factory! I had to sand the wrinkle/ craters out with 220 for a long time! But the results were Awsome! This peice goes on the drivers side, in front of the fleetwood Quarter window going up on to the roof!


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## cadillac88 (Dec 25, 2005)

big caddy how long do you sand with the 220 grit


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by cadillac88_@Jun 27 2006, 07:51 PM~5679073
> *big caddy how long do you sand with the 220 grit
> *


Depends on some pieces! On this piece i sanded  for 1h and 30 min cause of them wrinkles


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big caddy_@Jun 27 2006, 08:19 PM~5679171
> *Depends on some pieces! On this piece i sanded  for 1h and 30 min cause of them wrinkles
> *


 :uh: dude, yur crazy. u love that sanding :biggrin: I jus bought a polishing wheel and been standin there, at least my arms dont get tired :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Jun 27 2006, 08:21 PM~5679188
> *:uh: dude, yur crazy. u love that sanding  :biggrin: I jus bought a polishing wheel and been standin there, at least my arms dont get tired  :biggrin:
> *


:biggrin:I know this sounds crazy but I would rather sand by hand than use a machine because I can feel any imperfections by the way my sandpaper bites and in my fingertips, I also sand my peices in a plastic tub with water so they always stay cool while sanding instead of taking a chance of making them wavy due to the heat from a polishing wheel!  It just works better for me I guess! :cheesy: :biggrin:


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

big caddy great pics! make sure to post some pics up after they get chromed. Oh yeah where at in ohio is that guy this sounds interesting :0


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 83Cizzoupe_@Jun 27 2006, 11:12 PM~5680126
> *big caddy great pics! make sure to post some pics up after they get chromed. Oh yeah where at in ohio is that guy this sounds interesting :0
> *


Thanks bro, Dayton, ohio! Blackley polishing! :biggrin:


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## 83Cizzoupe (Jan 24, 2003)

i think i remember another guy on here with a coupe build up who went to that same place


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 83Cizzoupe_@Jun 29 2006, 05:16 PM~5690271
> *i think i remember another guy on here with a coupe build up who went to that same place
> *


Mike Smith from UCE! His trim is on point!


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

anyone ever used this stuff it works bad ass on stainless and aluminum just by its self and a rag and lots of polishing










did this one in bout 5 min of polishing by hand with a rag


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Jun 29 2006, 11:52 PM~5692163
> *anyone ever used this stuff it works bad ass on stainless and aluminum just by its self and a rag and lots of polishing
> 
> 
> ...


 :biggrin: :thumbsup: NicE!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Getting to the half way mark , closer by the day, Finally got them hood peices done, they was the hardest ones cause of the factory crease in them! Man this shit looks just like chrome, real deep! :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## lorinlewis23 (Apr 16, 2006)

pin this topic please


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

ttt :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Had to do it! TTT


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## japSW20 (Jan 13, 2005)

can this be done to rocker panels on a regal? mine are full of swirl marks and real fine scratches.im just unsure of what material they are?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

they stainless im sure of it!


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## japSW20 (Jan 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Oct 3 2006, 07:43 PM~6300240
> *they  stainless im sure of it!
> *


so the same procedure? sand up to 2000 polish?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

I wouldnt! I tried stainless before and it seem alot harder to do! I would do all stainless peices that wide by machine and compound! I wouldnt risk it by hand on stainless but aluminum is softer to remove the scratches easier!


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## japSW20 (Jan 13, 2005)

ah fuck it ill just get them plated


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by lorinlewis23+Jul 26 2006, 06:37 AM~5844498-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...



you can but stainless it way harder but it will come out if polished at high speeds not by hand. with the right compound.


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

Does anyone know what the going rate for chrome plating headlight bezels and a grill for a 67 Impala? Just wondering...just got a quote and wanna see how it compares.


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## junbug29s (Sep 12, 2006)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Oct 4 2006, 03:43 PM~6306513
> *Does anyone know what the going rate for chrome plating headlight bezels and a grill for a 67 Impala? Just wondering...just got a quote and wanna see how it compares.
> 
> 
> *


anyone :dunno:


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Oct 4 2006, 04:43 PM~6306513
> *Does anyone know what the going rate for chrome plating headlight bezels and a grill for a 67 Impala? Just wondering...just got a quote and wanna see how it compares.
> 
> 
> *



dont think you can chrome plate those, if you mean to polish up ppost pic or size


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## Bowtie Legacy (Jul 10, 2004)

ttt :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## creepin cutty (May 23, 2006)

PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT PIN IT !!!!! uffin:


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## silver64 (Dec 18, 2005)

i finally had a go at polishing :cheesy:

the dump on the right , uised to be black!









bling bling


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## japSW20 (Jan 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Oct 4 2006, 03:52 AM~6302471
> *x2
> you can but  stainless it way harder but it will come out if polished at high speeds not by hand. with the right compound.
> *


do you guys htink a buffing wheel on a drill will work?


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## creepin cutty (May 23, 2006)

yeah, but its has to be atleast 3,200 rpms


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## japSW20 (Jan 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by creepin cutty_@Oct 17 2006, 10:28 AM~6385787
> *yeah, but its has to be atleast 3,200 rpms
> *


on stainless right? i just dont want to fuck them up


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## creepin cutty (May 23, 2006)

get like a little edge that wont be seen and try it there....
or maybe buy a lil piece or something? :thumbsup:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

ttt :cheesy:


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## 6TREYRIDA (Oct 21, 2006)

great topic


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## Swazo (May 31, 2006)

I'm getting pretty close to where I'll have to make sure my trim is straight, minor repairs are done and then they will be polished out. I'll be trying my luck with the help of some key Eastwood products this time around since I'll be doing ALL of my interior and exterior aluminum trim all at once.

I'll take lots of pics and do a write up when I do


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I been doing polishing for Mr. Hardline, From Westside Lowriders for several months now...I hand sand almost all of the stuff I work on for him. It takes time but in the end its better, I use Magic Mix Metal polish from Valco Cincinnati Consumer Products Inc. It has a sealer built into it.
I use it for the final stage of polishing. I just rub it in and let it dry, Once it dries to a powdery grey look then it just wipes off like a car wax. It has a "polywax" that make the finish stay bright for awhile.
I always start with around 220 grit also. 120 if there is alot of machining lines (Newly made parts) Then I work on up to around 1000 grit. Almost always I keep the paper wet. 
I use a baldor motor I found and made a adaptor I spin a 50 ply 9"muslim wheel @2,000 rpm for most of the finish polishing. Sometimes I use a die grinder also. with a 3" wheel. To keep the scratches down use a wheel rake to clean the wheel regularly and let the rouge do the 
work...The harder you push the worse the scratches get. I wear regular leather gloves...The parts do get HOT...But not so bad that they hurt. 

On stainless it takes alot more sanding and make sure you dont use a coarse grit or you will take forever to remove the scratches But the nice thing about stainless is once its done it take next to nothing to keep it nice forever.


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## 6TREYRIDA (Oct 21, 2006)

Great Topic guys! :biggrin:


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

THIS IS A GREAT TOPIC, I'M SURE I COULD RESTORE MY ROCKERS AND ALL OTHER TRIM WIT THE INFO ON HERE BUT I DONT GOT THE TIME TO DO IT ALL AND I JUST TALK TO PEOPLE AT CHROME-RITE IN FAYETTEVILLE NC THEY TOLD ME $17-$25 A FOOT FOR MY ROCKERS DOES THAT SOUND RIGHT???


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## creepin cutty (May 23, 2006)

i wouldnt chrome it, i would polish them


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## fleetwoodpimpin (Mar 28, 2006)

the guy told me they de-anodize it and then polish it, he said they wouldnt chrome them


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## 41bowtie (Jul 22, 2006)

love this topic and i am a fellow buffing baboon my self i will post up some of my cast aluminum hydraulic filters i did and a pesco pump head i did also TTT


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by fleetwoodpimpin_@Oct 31 2006, 03:52 PM~6480129
> *the guy told me they de-anodize it and then polish it, he said they wouldnt chrome them
> *


 :thumbsup:


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## bigandy (Aug 5, 2006)

Nice topic
I was looking into doing my rockers before I stumbled into this thread and found this site maybe you guys can get some use out of it.

http://www.englishcustompolishing.com/index.html

here is the write up about the stainless

Stainless Steel, Monel and Titanium are hard metals. You can forget many abrasives when working with these metals. Most of them just break down when confronted with these metals.

There is only one way to go. 

Use an abrasive as tough as what you're up against. That means Stainless Steel abrasive compounds. These are compounds specifically designed to do the job. 

One of the greatest risks when working with materials this tough is over heating. Over heating will not only warp your item, but if it is tempered you will break down the tempering and soften the surface. If your work piece is stainless steel you may cause it to release many of its oxides and carbon. Then it won't be stainless any more and will rust like ordinary steel. In the event that you encounter this problem wipe it over with a "Burn Paste", basically phosphoric acid. This is available from most metal working/welding supply outlets, which will reseal the wounded area. We then have to neutralize the acid by smothering it with sodium bicarbonate to prevent etching. You can of course do it our way with our electronic weld cleaner . This will dispense its own acid which doesn't need neutralizing, and will remove all signs of burn from welds on stainless.

If you have a finished product that you are trying to maintain a mirror finish on, at least 95% of hand polishes are a big no, no. Most of them will do no more than clean the surface at best, and at worst they will make it hazy by leaving light scratches in the finish. This is because they cut a little and loose their edge in rapid fashion. 

The polish must have a serious abrasive to do anything. With most stainless, monel, etc, hand polishing is pretty much a waste of time. English Custom Polishing is one of the few manufactures of liquid polishes that will cut these metals, but be prepared for slow going.

If you are trying to do any more than clean up a mirror finish which is in good shape, forget it unless you have power tools. With a fabrication you cannot use abrasive compounds and buff wheels to remove machine or grain marks from manufacture as you can in aluminum or other softer metals. You have to cut with the correct tools. I like the nonwoven wheels, belts and discs. I don't like to bandy about trade names but sometimes one company has the product, Seco. They manufacture the finest bladder wheels and beltfiles in the world. When you have a large area, it's time to use belts for straight line stability.

Nonwoven belts and wheels will give you a reasonable finish, but still leave you a long way from that perfect mirror. The Seco tools are accompanied by a select range of belts, from 30 to 600 grit. It is important that at every stage you remove all signs of the previous cut, which will not always be easily visible. So we try to make each cut cross it's previous one at 90 degrees, this way we can see the scratches. 

From here on in it will not be quite as easy to see the scratches as the finish comes up to your mirror.

Now it is time to buff wheel.

The first cut should be done with a good heavy stainless compound, and a good stiff buff wheel. At English Custom Polishing we find the pleated reinforced canvas is best as it carries plenty of abrasive, is stiff enough to put it down on the piece, and has a degree of flexibility for irregular shapes. The cut should be done in consistent straight lines of course and when finished will leave quite a nice, even mirror.

The next two stages should consist of a fine stainless abrasive and a finer chrome oxide. The fine stainless cut should be done with a pleated mill treated buff. These are still quite stiff and do an excellent job. The finest cut should be done with an untreated canvas buff. The medium and fine stainless compounds tend to vary in color, depending on the manufacturers dyes.

Each cut should, where ever possible, cross the previous one at 90 degrees. This will show up any marks left in from the previous cuts. Only when all marks are gone are we ready to proceed to the next cut. Once you are satisfied with your final stainless cuts it is time to move on to a good quality chromium oxide. Chromium is what gives stainless steel its brightness, so when we use a chrome oxide it is the perfect compliment and really brings your mirror up to an outstanding finish. Use a good quality linen buff for this operation. Now you should really have something worth looking at. The finishing touches are about to be done.

We do a final cut with a top quality calcined aluminate. These are superfine abrasives, which are quite hard, but very, very light cutters. That will do no more than remove very slight surface imperfections, and really bring the mirror to its ultimate lustre. This cut should be done with a very loose linen or cotton buff. If you like carnauba, here's your chance to use it to its full effect. Carnauba will not hurt these metals as long as it is removed every 12 months or so. Apply your carnauba, by hand. Make sure that not a single piece is uncovered and give it a few minutes to dry.

Once it has dried on the workpiece buff it off with a domet flannel buff. The more you buff the brighter it will get. I mean brighter! Call your friends, fire up the barbeque, pour out the beer and hand out the shades. You are now ready to show them you work!


Want to see some results? Check out our photo gallery.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Sounds like alot of technical jargon. I have been in the heavy duty truck market and motorcycle industry making and selling polishes for quite a few years. My Dad bought Magic Mix from the founder over ten years ago and I have never heard of english custom polishing.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it, But there are probrably 60 new polish companies every year at the Mid america trucking show.....And 60 that dont return because they are out of business that next year. Everyone has brazened selling tactics and some out and out lie. 
Its safe to say that anyone who polishes will basically have to try many different grades of abrasives and polishes, Including finish polishes used by hand....Its not uncommon to have 12 bottles or more of different stuff. and Dozens of wheels, belts, grit papers, you name it....Even two pieces of the supposed same metal dont always polish the same. I have polished stainless very well with aluminum based abrasives many times...No problem....And some abrsives that break down are on purpose to prevent scratching, and to leave a smoother surface. Its all about results. On automobiles there is very few items that cannot be polished with normal products and techniques.


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## PISTONPUMP-1 (Oct 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by warning_@Mar 12 2006, 10:00 PM~5036762
> *this is a cool topic and all but if you take off the anodizing with all those
> different grits and compounds the shit won't keep looking that good, it'll dull.
> *


did you know oven cleaner removes anodizing??


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## Eazy (Dec 23, 2004)

> _Originally posted by PISTONPUMP-1_@Nov 16 2006, 12:54 AM~6578517
> *did you know oven cleaner removes anodizing??
> *


*MESSAGE!*


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## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

> _Originally posted by PISTONPUMP-1_@Nov 15 2006, 10:54 PM~6578517
> *did you know oven cleaner removes anodizing??
> *


13 pages ago.....

:uh:


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## Bricktop (Jun 12, 2006)

good topic, what do you guys use to get small little dings out of the trim?
so after reading 15 pages...............i need to remove annodizeing
sand with 220-2000 grit
polish the shit out of it.
are these the 3 key major steps or what....


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Bricktop_@Nov 17 2006, 01:16 AM~6586259
> *good topic, what do you guys use to get small little dings out of the trim?
> so after reading 15 pages...............i need to remove annodizeing
> sand with 220-2000 grit
> ...


Yep remove the coating by letting the peice sit in lye for like 10 minutes or however long you need depending on how much water/ lye used! I always take a steel wool to the peice first so the chemical gets to thru it better! After the peice doesnt have a shiny look anymore and it looks milky, start with 220 and warm water sanding long length dircection of the peice Example left to right! DO NOT SAND IN CIRCULAR MOTION BECAUSE IT WILL SWIRL THE HELL OUT OF THE PEICE! Once you feel comfortable move on to the next lighter grit and repaet this till you get to 1500 or 2000 then polish the same direction as sanded!


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## PISTONPUMP-1 (Oct 26, 2004)

> _Originally posted by junbug27_@Nov 16 2006, 05:21 PM~6583798
> *13 pages ago.....
> 
> :uh:
> *



MY FAULT,JUST TRYIN TO HELP. IT WORKED FOR ME A COUPLE OF TIMES.


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by PISTONPUMP-1_@Nov 15 2006, 11:54 PM~6578517
> *did you know oven cleaner removes anodizing??
> *



how long would you let it sit for with that?


----------



## junbug27 (Sep 7, 2004)

10-20 minutes..scrub/rinse with water...dry off and see if all the anodizing is stripped off, if not re-spray again.


----------



## austex61 (Nov 20, 2006)

Dings, anyone try to remove dings?


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Roll'em out with a homemade tool that has a heavy steel wheel on a handle, It has to be smooth too.

Use a body dolly or anvil on the other side


Basically a mini "English wheel" It is the best way.


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## theoso75 (Mar 8, 2006)

TTT 
Great info everyone, I should be able to save some money with this


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

Do you go thru a series of different buffing compounds Like Emery, Tripoli & White Rouge ????


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Yes, I am trying to make a book on this....Who would be interested? It will have pictures, suppliers listed, before and afters etc. Kinda like a magazine. But only like one issue each year.


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## phx rider (Aug 22, 2002)

great topic.....i really have to thank LUXURIOU$LAC for making this topic and everone else who contributed  ........good lookin out my wallet thanks you..


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by phx rider_@Dec 17 2006, 07:01 PM~6776348
> *great topic.....i really have to thank LUXURIOU$LAC for making this topic and everone else who contributed   ........good lookin out my wallet thanks you..
> *


Thanks bro, I really appreciate that! Alot of great people on here!


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## phx rider (Aug 22, 2002)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Dec 17 2006, 06:29 PM~6776653
> *Thanks bro, I really appreciate that! Alot of great people on here!
> *


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## RegalLimited82 (Aug 23, 2005)




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## 41bowtie (Jul 22, 2006)

[/quote]


some things i polished my self


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## 41bowtie (Jul 22, 2006)

[/quote]


click on image to make larger.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

There is bound to be some pictures floating around here now but I polished a large amount of the trunk contents of a certain San Diego Bound 59' aqua colored Impala convertible that Mr. Hardline just finished....Some of the setups of the month in Lowrider Magazine have my work in them....If Mr. Hardline made it there's a good chance I polished it! I just got a job polishing a bunch of parts off a 555cu. inch dragster for a local show the end of January.


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## 61 Impala on 3 (Sep 30, 2003)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Jan 2 2007, 02:51 PM~6882977
> *There is bound to be some pictures floating around here now but I polished a large amount of the trunk contents of a certain San Diego Bound 59' aqua colored Impala convertible that Mr. Hardline just finished....Some of the setups of the month in Lowrider Magazine have my work in them....If Mr. Hardline made it there's a good chance I polished it! I just got a job polishing a bunch of parts off a 555cu. inch dragster for a local show the end of January.
> *


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Hell yeah, Thanks for posting those up! Those are the battery hold downs that I finished for Mr. Hardline, His idea was to make them match the body side moldings on the 59' So they were CNC'd to the rough shape then I hand sanded and polished them....The radius on the ends I used a good ole file on then hand sanded them too.
After they were polished I masked off the parts and sprayed the white paint down in the groove to match the car....But it was just as nicely polished before I roughed it for paint adhesion.
I did the oil cooler brackets too but the batteries are hiding them....And the stainless bulkheads through the floor and the switch panel on the dash....as well as quite a few other little parts.

Then on Marks car with the Mr. Hardline "Block" in the trunk I polished the battery hold downs for it and the block that has all 4 dumps united as one...
I'm workin on a set of sheet metal dragster valve covers even as I type....(I got aluminum gunk all over my fingertips) Then I have a radiator and a set of stainless BB Chevy headers for the same dragster.

After I get this dragster done, Mr Hardline has alot of other work for me as well as many Westside Lowriders that need misc. stuff done.

Once again thanks for the posted photo's!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Jan 3 2007, 09:31 AM~6889681
> *Hell yeah, Thanks for posting those up! Those are the battery hold downs that I finished for Mr. Hardline, His idea was to make them match the body side moldings on the 59' So they were CNC'd to the rough shape then I hand sanded and polished them....The radius on the ends I used a good ole file on then hand sanded them too.
> After they were polished I masked off the parts and sprayed the white paint down in the groove to match the car....But it was just as nicely polished before I roughed it for paint adhesion.
> I did the oil cooler brackets too but the batteries are hiding them....And the stainless bulkheads through the floor and the switch panel on the dash....as well as quite a few other little parts.
> ...


Turned out real nice bro! Are you willing to do some more machining?


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Thanks, But even though I was a machinist for 10+ years Chad AKA Mr. Hardline is who is doing that work. I am just doing the finishing and polishing. 
I dont have a lathe and Mill in my garage he does. We have the CNC machines at Valco where we work and every now and then we can get a little piece made here or there on the second shift when a machine is idle.
I will drill holes smooth things and fabricate and weld at home but Chad is much better equipped than me. I can do some pretty good body work though. I am proud of my polishing work but I dont overcharge. Lately I just Let Chad hook me up with his work or let him tell me if he has any club member that needs work done....I will work in trade too... I have a 74' Monte Carlo that needs alot still. But I am really busy the next month or so.


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## 2LO4URHO (Jan 2, 2007)

:worship: Bow down to the metal gods as they shine and luster forever more :worship: 

Great topic guys - I think I learned more in the last 16 pages than I have in my whole life. lol :thumbsup: uffin: :biggrin:


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## TORONTO (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 2LO4URHO_@Jan 5 2007, 11:10 AM~6909480
> *:worship: Bow down to the metal gods as they shine and luster forever more :worship:
> 
> Great topic guys - I think I learned more in the last 16 pages than I have in my whole life. lol  :thumbsup:  uffin:  :biggrin:
> *


i couldn't have said it better myself, i just read all the past 16 pages for the second or third time and its amazing how much you really learn from reading... one question i have for mr. LUXURIOUS$LAC is, how much work would it be to do my bumpers.. would it be crazy for me to begin something like that since i've never polished anything before? i'm planning on doing all the trim on my car AND the front and back bumpers... are the bumpers chrome from the factory or are they just stainless steel?? the cars an 87 cutlass...


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## TORONTO (Mar 11, 2005)

and have any of you ever heard of , or tried this shit?
http://www.lusterlace.com/


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## bmcustomaudio (Jun 12, 2006)

yeah, damn, i just read the whole 16 pages too and i want to try to polish something now.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

:biggrin:


> _Originally posted by bmcustomaudio_@Jan 9 2007, 02:05 AM~6940111
> *yeah, damn, i just read the whole 16 pages too and i want to try to polish something now.
> *


 :thumbsup:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by lowrider_cutlass_@Jan 9 2007, 02:01 AM~6940070
> *i couldn't have said it better myself, i just read all the past 16 pages for the second or third time and its amazing how much you really learn from reading... one question i have for mr. LUXURIOUS$LAC is, how much work would it be to do my bumpers.. would it be crazy for me to begin something like that since i've never polished anything before? i'm planning on doing all the trim on my car AND the front and back bumpers... are the bumpers chrome from the factory or are they just stainless steel?? the cars an 87 cutlass...
> *


the bumpers are chrome they would either have to be replated or if they are decent try some type of chrome polish on them with a wax applicator let it haze then wipe it off!


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Magic Mix Metal Polish works wonders on chrome unless its so bad it needs replated.

Lusterlace is a joke. Your buying a bunch of fabric with just a dab of polish integrated into it. Dont fall for it.

Polishing is a wonderful hobby and will definately reduce your stress and gives you something to do while watching tv and shit.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Jan 11 2007, 12:31 PM~6960297
> *Magic Mix Metal Polish works wonders on chrome unless its so bad it needs replated.
> 
> Lusterlace is a joke. Your buying a bunch of fabric with just a dab of polish integrated into it. Dont fall for it.
> ...


iT SOUNDS FUNNY BUT WHEN I POLISH I GET IN MEDITATION MODE! lol! :biggrin:










:biggrin:


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## CLOWNINWAYZ (Nov 11, 2003)

> _Originally posted by silver64_@Oct 11 2006, 04:24 PM~6348874
> *i finally had a go at polishing :cheesy:
> 
> the dump on the right , uised to be black!
> ...


that looks nice good work..


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Nice work.


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## 61 Impala on 3 (Sep 30, 2003)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jan 11 2007, 02:15 PM~6961210
> *iT SOUNDS FUNNY BUT WHEN I POLISH I GET IN MEDITATION MODE! lol! :biggrin:
> 
> 
> ...


Your not to smooth of a ninja........you stabbed yourself in the back with your own sword. :0


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## kandypaint (Jan 19, 2006)

memories of hard work................


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 61 Impala on 3_@Jan 12 2007, 07:21 AM~6968069
> *Your not to smooth of a ninja........you stabbed yourself in the back with your own sword. :0
> *


I still havent learn the special technique to shadow boxing!
:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


----------



## DerbycityDave (May 31, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jan 12 2007, 11:58 AM~6970023
> *I still havent learn the special technique to shadow boxing!
> :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:
> *


Whats up bro. I my need your help soon on my 64. to do some of my part i got you $$ :biggrin:


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## DerbycityDave (May 31, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jan 12 2007, 11:58 AM~6970023
> *I still havent learn the special technique to shadow boxing!
> :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:  :roflmao:
> *


I need a NINJA HELP LOL :scrutinize:


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## 19PANCHO59 (Oct 29, 2006)

tnx bro


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## GPC CADDY (Aug 2, 2006)

Does anybody know of a place that will plate the trim on my coupe / fleetwood project i drive it almost everyday and if i get caught in the rain or after i was it a couple times all my trim gets water spots ! I want to spend time driving it not cleaning it! Thanks in advance for any help.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GPC CADDY_@Jan 13 2007, 09:38 PM~6980176
> *Does anybody know of a place that will plate the trim on my coupe / fleetwood project i drive it almost everyday and if i get caught in the rain or after i was it a couple times all my trim gets water spots ! I want to spend time driving it not cleaning it! Thanks in advance for any help.
> *


As a matter of fact blakleys in ohio does great work!


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## GPC CADDY (Aug 2, 2006)

Thanks can i get the # ? And by the way this is crazy everytime i am reading a post that has anything to do with caddy's your in it ! Your cpu must be really tired at the end of the day! Also do you have a list for any shows this summer like in oh, in, ky etc if so i would appreciate it thanks. Your car is coming along awesome to keep up the good work if i knew how to post pics i would show you all my projects , ask tuna he has seen them i really do have vehicles LOL Thank you


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GPC CADDY_@Jan 13 2007, 11:02 PM~6980879
> *Thanks can i get the # ? And by the way this is crazy everytime i am reading a post that has anything to do with caddy's your in it !  Your cpu must be really tired at the end of the day! Also do you have a list for any shows this summer like in oh, in, ky etc if so i would appreciate it thanks. Your car is coming along awesome to keep up the good work if i knew how to post pics i would show you all my projects , ask tuna he has seen them i really do have vehicles LOL  Thank you
> *


(ARNOLD SWARTZeNAGER VOICE) MY CPU IS A EURONET PROCESSOR, A LEARNING COMPUTER! LOL! Naw,, im just a caddy lover! :biggrin:

give me a minute i will get it for you!
if you do this process first to your trim he only charges $7 a foot to plate!
Carl casper is a real good show you and dan should come for it in the end of febuary


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by DerbycityDave_@Jan 13 2007, 01:45 AM~6975831
> *I need a NINJA  HELP LOL :scrutinize:
> *


what all you need done dave?


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## DerbycityDave (May 31, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jan 13 2007, 09:13 PM~6980974
> *what all you need done dave?
> *


I got all new side and back trim. And a grill . My hood need some help .so just 2 trim pieces. :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by DerbycityDave_@Jan 13 2007, 11:17 PM~6981027
> *I got all new side and back trim. And a grill . My hood need some help .so just 2 trim pieces. :biggrin:
> *


so you need the hood peices done  :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GPC CADDY_@Jan 13 2007, 11:02 PM~6980879
> *Thanks can i get the # ? And by the way this is crazy everytime i am reading a post that has anything to do with caddy's your in it !  Your cpu must be really tired at the end of the day! Also do you have a list for any shows this summer like in oh, in, ky etc if so i would appreciate it thanks. Your car is coming along awesome to keep up the good work if i knew how to post pics i would show you all my projects , ask tuna he has seen them i really do have vehicles LOL  Thank you
> *


blakley polishing in dayton ohio, 937-274-8448

heres his work, he polishes then plates them the best i ever seen!  
http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...dpost&p=4781942


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## GPC CADDY (Aug 2, 2006)

THank you very much i will probably be at casper i lokk forward to meeting you ! :biggrin:


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## arabretard (Feb 1, 2005)

is all the trim on a cutlass aluminum? wanna make sure of it before i start to sand down pieces


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GPC CADDY_@Jan 14 2007, 12:51 PM~6983853
> *THank you very much i will probably be at casper i lokk forward to meeting you ! :biggrin:
> *


Just look for the Lux shirt, pimpin! :biggrin:


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## GPC CADDY (Aug 2, 2006)

My buddy bought gucci john's big body i think he wants to take it there. When are the dates again? :uh:


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

here's a before and after, 320 grit, then 600, 800,1000,1500, and finally 2000, after my hand is numb and im tired as hell. got some drain cleaner powder shit to strip this off cause im not doing 5 more by hand. these are 62 impala taillight buckets. only done the outsides and face, didnt do the insides cause theyre clean for the most part. 

for some reason Nevr-Dull was the only thing to polish it out , NanoPolish from Eagle 1 didnt do shit, nor did their Aluminum polish for wheels. 

more to come, after stripping with a caustic soda bath.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Are those Stainless Steel? You should have tried our Magic Mix Polish on them...We just found out last week that Pilot Truck stops is going to stock 30 of their largest truckstops with our Polish.

So look in a few weeks and it should be there....Plain white bottle with a RED/WHITE/BLUE Bunny rabbit on the label.

On some of my finishing work especially on stainless steel headers and mufflers I rub on the polish by hand with a wool pad and then after it dries I use a right angle die ginder with a 3" buffing wheel to "FINISH" the metal....I just finished a set of dragster headers and $1100 dollar Borla racing mufflers in SS for our local Cavelcade show this weekend. I took pictures But I dont have a way to post them.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Also for fairly smooth metal that you just want a fast shine on use a large 10"+ buffing wheel around 1800 rpm with a black heavy cut rouge for SS/Steel/Alum and cut it in with that....Then use white rouge and then use the technique above and finally hand polish it and it will look like spent more time on it than you did.
I have been doing a ton of polishing lately.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

I want someone to post a how to doc for suspension parts process (smoothed out and what tools and grit they used to get it ready for plating! Someone needs to do it with pics involved! I done my share now its up to someone else! :biggrin:


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

the only items stainless on my 62 are the mouldings around the windows... all the other trim is aluminum. going to do the headlight doors soon.

the drain cleaner eats the finish off, leaves it a pale gray with the remains of the anodizing looking somewhat peach colored. it should wipe off but if it doesnt, just soak it a little bit more. i'm going to hit it again with 1000-1500-2000 grit and polish it out, but the soda bath took all the hard work out :biggrin: 

i'm also going to play around with some "safe" rust eater from work, try it out on seat tracks and other parts that i want cleaned and looking like new.


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

> _Originally posted by GrandPrixOnThree_@Jan 24 2007, 02:24 PM~7073264
> *the only items stainless on my 62 are the mouldings around the windows... all the other trim is aluminum.  going to do the headlight doors soon.
> 
> the drain cleaner eats the finish off, leaves it a pale gray with the remains of the anodizing looking somewhat peach colored. it should wipe off but if it doesnt, just soak it a little bit more. i'm going to hit it again with 1000-1500-2000 grit and polish it out, but the soda bath took all the hard work out  :biggrin:
> ...


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

do you polish the aluminum the same as stainless,sorry for dubble post!! :biggrin:


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

i havent messed with the stainless yet. toothpaste does a good job on it tho. for some reason after 1500 or 2000 grit, only NevrDull brings the finish out initially, afterwards i hit it with eagle one or mothers aluminum polish, then again with NanoPolish... its finicky.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Yes the process is almost exactly the same for both metals.....Stainless is just alot harder metal. The stainless will require less upkeep in the future and once its polished its more durable...Aluminum is fairly fragile to even fingerprints and coarse rags....Once the stainless is polished it takes a effort to screw it up.
The stainless will get really hot while polishing...much more than the alum. 


I SWEAR....The Magic Mix Polish will do what you want it to do....Its pretty awesome stuff. Just shake it up well....That is most folks problem.


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Jan 25 2007, 09:12 AM~7080782
> *Yes the process is almost exactly the same for both metals.....Stainless is just alot harder metal. The stainless will require less upkeep in the future and once its polished its more durable...Aluminum is fairly fragile to even fingerprints and coarse rags....Once the stainless is polished it takes a effort to screw it up.
> The stainless will get really hot while polishing...much more than the alum.
> I SWEAR....The Magic Mix Polish will do what you want it to do....Its pretty awesome stuff. Just shake it up well....That is most folks problem.
> *


where do you buy that magic mix?i wanna do the trim on my 62 impala since it is aluminum would i be better off having it plated.thanks!! :biggrin:


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

found something that helps after the caustic soda bath, before polishing or sanding. "aluminum jelly" from DURO which is made for shower doors & shit that arent "new or anodized" finishes... it made a big difference on my headlight doors, gonna coat it well, rinse, and cut w/1000-2000 and polish out. should post some pics tonight. :thumbsup:


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

here's a headlight door polished after 1000 and 1500 gr. out of the soda dip. under it is the other side untreated, freshly stripped. clean and newer pieces can go right to buffing, these older pieces that were pitted from years of use needed sanded to make smooth. also is a finished taillight bucket setting above them, the only one i done without the chemical stripper.


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## loco's79 (May 28, 2006)

DAMN! LOOK LIKE NEW.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GrandPrixOnThree_@Jan 25 2007, 08:21 PM~7086022
> *found something that helps after the caustic soda bath, before polishing or sanding. "aluminum jelly" from DURO which is made for shower doors & shit that arent "new or anodized" finishes... it made a big difference on my headlight doors, gonna coat it well, rinse, and cut w/1000-2000 and polish out. should post some pics tonight.  :thumbsup:
> *


I like to use steel wool before the bath, helps dig deep to strip the coating quickerl!


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

i'll try that next... going to do the hockey sticks and outer coves, might do the trunk if they turn out OK, even a not-so-perfect one looks badass polished out.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

You guys need to definately check out the Magic Mix...Pilot truck stops just made a deal with us to stock the 30 largest stores they have. Flying J truck stops/Petro Truck stops/ Barjan Distributing sells to many places and they may be able to be looked up....Motorstate distributing sells our stuff and CV products and Motorcycle shops that buy from Mid-USA motorcycle distributing.....Even Parts Unlimited. Try looking up Scheid Diesel products on the Internet...They have some of our lowest prices and they ship anywhere.

We dont have the money to advertise the way it needs to be done....We also cant afford a Semi to go from show to show giving away samples and hyping the product.....Maybe someday.....


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I prefer the look of plating myself, But I prefer the ease of polishing when something looks bad.....When plating pits or gets scratched bad then its done and needs major work.....Polishing is easily repaired and the upkeep is not as bad as people make it out to be.....If you have the right polish. Very highly polished aluminum like weld racing wheels look just as good as chrome.


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

theres only one Pilot station in WV, but its big... is it gonna be there? i'm checking it out anyways for LED lights...


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## BAGO (Oct 21, 2002)




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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

It might be....I have not gotten a list of exactly which stores they are gonna be yet....The products are in transit from DAS distributing to the Pilot stores for their planogram restyle and restock in February.
I dont know yet the details besides that.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Truckstops are a excellent source of quite a few parts that will woek well on lowriders....Tons of Lights....Radio equipment....Chrome and trim alot of the time. as well as even hydraulic stuff at certain truck stops....Like hose and fittings etc. And for the air ride guys there is alot of high quality air control valves and other stuff.


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

i'll buy it, but i wont like DAS reaping any profits from my money. lol


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

ttt for refrence


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

You know DAS? Out of Penn.

Like I said you can order it from Scheid Diesel out of Terre Haute Ind. And get about the best pricing.


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## ucepnut (Aug 13, 2006)

can i do this to big body rocker trim or is it chrome


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ucepnut_@Feb 2 2007, 01:51 PM~7157344
> *can i do this to big body rocker trim or is it chrome
> *


Big body trim is stainless, i believe! I wouldnt try it!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

my steering column had a dyed peice that i found out to be aluminum so i hit it up! never de-anodized but still turned out bling! :biggrin:


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

i'm about to soda bath my trunk moulding and try it out. its just so fucking cold outside i dont wanna be out there a minute.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by GrandPrixOnThree_@Feb 5 2007, 05:53 PM~7181535
> *i'm about to soda bath my trunk moulding and try it out. its just so fucking cold outside i dont wanna be out there a minute.
> *


I hear ya, cold as shit down here! :0


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

0 degrees this morning!! fuccn COLLLLLLLD!!


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## andre$$ (Jul 24, 2006)

I've read every post in this GOOD 18 page topic....What should I do about this shifter and my turn signal bar(Chrome) has the same problem--should I buy new one? What is the best way to restore the rest of my chrome(Mother's)???Thanx fellas!!


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

steel wool the shifter arm....  the rest i dunno.... rechrome w/new nickel base and triple plated chrome...


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

found a good polish ( to use by hand) on the aluminum parts.... seems after 1500 grit, use Nevr-Dull and then Mothers mag and aluminum polish.... looks damn good and it was easier than using a felt bob to speed the action up.


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## 85CrownVictoria (Feb 9, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 61 Impala on 3_@Mar 13 2006, 04:17 AM~5038115
> *So, are you going to keep cleaning that part over and over every month? You might consider using the Zoop Seal on it. They also make a clear for bare metal.
> 
> Oh and you could have used a costic acid to stip the anodizing off first. You would have had less sanding to do.
> *


dude i got plenty of caustic acid at work.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 85CrownVictoria_@Feb 12 2007, 02:26 AM~7237134
> *dude i got plenty of caustic acid at work.
> *


how much for a gallon shipped to 42701 Ky :biggrin:


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Anyone who posts about "Found" that Mothers/Never dull works well....Has barely scratched the surface of polishes out there.....Those two brands are whores of advertising....They are popular only because of advertising. Mediocre at best.

You really need to try other products before saying good things about those two. I dare say it leads to a person who has a alot of experience thinking your very new to this...

In order to get a eye opening in the world of polishing a trip to the Mid America trucking show is in order. I have to say there is over 150 booths there of people who make and sell metal polish. There are probrably 50 booths of people selling felts/bobs/wheels/buffing machines/and all tools related. There is even a few booths of folks who do polishing services.

If you know a good basic foundation of polishing and know what is good and bad then you can weed out about 100+ of the polishes you encounter....Ammonia is very bad....Dont buy polish with it in it....Some companies mask the smell with perfumes to hide it even. There is no such thing as a non-abrasive metal polish....So those folks are flat out liars.
A trip to that show will make anyone who polishes realize the difference between polishing products to be bought in hardware/auto parts stores and polishes for use in the professional market.

I hear people complain about having ten different bottles of polish on the shelf now...Well there is a whole lot more than 10 different grades of even one metal out there to polish....So yes every polish has a thing that makes it bad,good,better,best at any one surface over another. Some are liquid some are hard pastes....Each has a reason for being. So people who think just one polish will do everything are sorely mistaken.
But I am confident the Magic Mix we make is the one best suited to handle what most of us semi pro polish guys need for our car hobbies/businesses.

I buy and try other polishes regularly and the Magic Mix continues to outshine and do it faster than others everytime.


I just found a cloth that works much better than micorfiber towels for polishing also....For final hand work and rubbing polish on or off try DuPonts Sontara SPS POLISH & DETAIL CLOTHS
They wont scratch, extra soft and designed to remove polish and give a brilliant shine and are washable and professional....They come in a pack of 50 for about $8.00


I repeat they work better than microfiber! Available from paint supply stores for automotive DuPont paint.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Feb 12 2007, 11:24 AM~7238572
> *Anyone who posts about "Found" that Mothers/Never dull works well....Has barely scratched the surface of polishes out there.....Those two brands are whores of advertising....They are popular only because of advertising. Mediocre at best.
> 
> You really need to try other products before saying good things about those two. I dare say it leads to a person who has a alot of experience thinking your very new to this...
> ...


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## andre$$ (Jul 24, 2006)

Alright who has this magic mix for sale..? If it does'nt work .... I'm kick your ass LOL..


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

i still have yet to try the Pilot station here , i'm gonna hunt for it though. If its as good as you said, more power to ya. got anything to post like pics of stuff youve used it on??? comparisons? :biggrin:


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## el Jeffe (Sep 23, 2006)

So I just read all 19 pages. You guys have me wantin to polish everything I see. To bad my cars in Cali....


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

> _Originally posted by el Jeffe_@Feb 12 2007, 11:23 PM~7244609
> *So I just read all 19 pages.  You guys have me wantin to polish everything I see.  To bad my cars in Cali....
> *


doin this shit is addictive. plus it gives you something to do indoors when its too cold outside to work on anything. but do the caustic soda bath OUTSIDE! i'm going to remove and polish my trunk moulding and outer coves & hockey sticks. what sucks is that i'll probably have to strip and polish NEW parts so they match the un-anodized refinished parts.... :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

GOOD TOPIC! WHO STARTED IT ANYWAY?! :biggrin:


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Go to www.valco-cp.com and look up the where to buy page. You can buy it straight off the website too but the price is cheaper through the customers. Scheid Diesel is one of the cheapest.

I did most of the parts of the turquoise 59 Impala from San Diego, Armondo's (Sp?) car. With Magic mix.....I hand finish every part I do with it after buffing.

The neat thing with Magic Mix is to let it dry once you rub it on.....Then as it dries it sets a sealer that beads water and protects. Then use one of those DuPont SPS towels I just told you about. the difference will amaze you.

I just polished some parts for some Westside lowriders, A bunch of stainless fittings and Big Dump Valves and misc. stuff...I have pictures but I dont know how to post them. Most of the work I do is for other people and they either pay me or trade services. I just did a bunch of dragster parts for a guy and they were really rough parts but I made them look pretty good.
I am into drag style cars myself mostly so the only parts I have polished for myself are Radiator brackets and weld racing wheels for myself.....I have a ton of stuff I need to polish for my 74' Monte Carlo but I put everyone else's stuff ahead of mine. I did polish a Holley racing Carb. for myself a little while back....ANd the Turbo housing for my 74' Monte too....

I keep catching flack for wanting to turbo my 74' Monte Carlo but Its gonna happen anyway. I am all about performance. If I aint got 400+ horsepower at the rear wheels I am not happy. My polishing for the most part is the same way....What most people say looks just fine....Is not good enough for me. I hate sanding scratches.....I usually do a great job gettin rid of them. I just did those dumps and they looked OK but they needed a few more hours spent on them....But Family trouble got in the way. The guy I did them for said he was happy with them though.


I want to open a store to sell polishing products and do polishing work for people....I have a custom trike builder in Lebanon Ohio just tell me he has a truck load of work for me. I need a partner though.


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

I was gonna try and do my aluminum but i didnt want to copy every page on this tpic,it seems like the method and the products change every other page,so can some one please explain in DETAIL how its performed and the products that absolutley work on one page.This would make the process alot faster for alot of us.thankyou,this is a topic of the year nominee!! :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by red chev_@Feb 13 2007, 06:43 PM~7251137
> *I was gonna try and do my aluminum but i didnt want to copy every page on this tpic,it seems like the method and the products change every other page,so can some one please explain in DETAIL how its performed and the products that absolutley work on one page.This would make the process alot faster for alot of us.thankyou,biggrin:
> *


this is a topic of the year nominee!! :

THANKS FOR THE GOOD WORDS! oK, THIS IS HOW I DO IT FOR THE BEST RESULTS WITH NO SWIRLS,

i GO TO LOWES AND BUY A 4FT PVC PIPE WITH 2 END CAPS FOR THE PIPE, ALSO A BOTTLE OF CAUSTIC SODA/100% LYE FOR CLEANING INDUSTRIAL DRAINS! 










ASSEMBLE THE PIPE MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE CAPS ON GOOD SO THAT SHIT DONT GET ON ANYTHING! 










FILL THE TUBE AS HIGH AS YOU WANT BUT I RECOMEND LEAVING ABOUT 4 TO 6 INCHES UNFILLED TOWARDS THE TOP, THAT WAY WHEN YOU SWISH AROUND IT DOESNT SPILL OVER!

i RECOMMEND WEARING SAFETY GLASSES AND KITCHEN GLOVES WHEN DOING THIS, THAT SHIT WILL BURN THE FUCK OUT OF YOU! THE MIXING RATIO I USE IS A CUP TO A GALLON, STONG BUT STRIPS QUICKER, IM VERY IMPATIENT! :biggrin: ADD YOUR POWDER IN THE PIPE THEN ADD WARM WATER! WARM WORKS BETTER FOR SOME REASON! 

STIR IT UP REALLY GOOD WITH A LONG WOODEN STICK!! MAKE SURE ITS WOOD BECAUSE IF YOU USE METAL IT WILL WEAKEN THE CHEMICAL CAUSE ITS CONCENTRATES ON THE METAL QUITE HARSHLY AND THE EXCESS REIDUE OFF THE STEAL WILL CAUSE IT TO WEAKEN/NOT BE AS STRONG/SLOWER REACT/DEADEN!

NEXT TAKE A PEICE OF STEEL WOOL AND SCUFF UP THE ANODIZED MOULDING OR PART,ETC. THIS WILL HELP STRIP EASIER CAUSE IT WILL GET UNDER THE ETCH COATING FASTER!

PUT THE PEICE IN THE WATER AND LET IT STRIP CHECKING ON IT EVERY 5 TO 10 MINUTES, THEN IF THE PEICE IS TOO LONG AND HANGS OUT YOU WILL HAVE TO FLIP A COUPLE OF TIMES BOUNCING BACK AND FOURTH ON SUBMERGING THE ENDS IN THE CHEMICAL! MIGHT TAKE A COUPLE OF TIMES!









ONCE YOUR PEICE HAS A HEAVY WHITE FILM ON IT/HAZY LOOKING/(GLAZED LOOK) TAKE A PEICE OF STEEL WOOL TO IT AND SCUFF AGAIN TO SEE IF ITS EATING THE ETCH COATING OFF. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO TELL! KEEP SOAKING UNTIL ALL THE COATING IS OFF THE DESIRED POLISH AREAS!

ONCE THE COATING IS OFF RINSE WITH WARM WATER AND WIPE OFF THE RESIDUE WITH A TOWEL OR SOMETHING!

i WOULD DISPOSE OF THE CHEMICAL ONTO SOME WEEDS OR SOMEWHERE SAFE FROM CATS, DOGGS, HAMPSTERS, ETC! 

YOUR PEICE SHOULD LOOK VERY DULL (GRAY COLOR)!








SEE THE MIDDLE








NOW ITS TIME FOR THE FUN PART :cheesy: 
GET A 5 GALLON BUCKET OR TUB OF WARM WATER AND GRAB UP THESE PEICES OF SAND PAPER GRIT, THE WET/DRY KIND! 220,320,400,600,800,1000,1200,1500,2000! 

ITS VERY IMPORTANT YOU ALWAYS KEEP WATER ON WHAT YOUR SANDING, THIS WILL HELP PREVENT SWIRLS FROM ALUMINUM RESIDUE LEFT OVER!

START WITH 220 FOR THE DEEP SCRATCHES BUT IF YOU HAVE NONE THEN YOU CAN START WITH 400! 

SAND LEFT TO RIGHT OR UP AND DOWN WITH BEING AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE THE PART WITH YOUR HANDS AND FINGERS.

NEVER SAND IN A CIRCULAR MOTION CAUSE THIS WILL DIG DEEP SWIRLS AND TAKE WAY LONGER TO REMOVE! REMEMBER LEFT TO RIGHT, USE THE LONGEST STROKES AS YOU CAN, TRY NOT TO STOP IN THE MIDDLE CAUSE IT WILL SHOW LIGHT HAIR STOPPING STOPPING SCRATHCHES IN THE END OF THE POLISHING PHASES! 

SAND ALL THE WAY END TO END OR TOP TO BOTTOM BEFORE UPGRADING TO A FINER PEICE OF SAND PAPER!

NEXT DO THE SAME TECHNIQUE WITH A FINER GRIT, SANDING LEFT TO RIGHT OR UP AND DOWN IN LONG STROKES, END TO END BEFORE MOVING TO 600 GRIT, REPEAT WITH 800, THEN 1000, 1500 AND 2000, 

DO EACH STEP THE SAME SANING END TO END AND KEEPING IT WET ALL THE WAY THRU THE PROCESS!

ONCE YOUR DONE SANDING WITH 2000 GRIT ITS TIME TO SEE WHY HARD WORK WILL PAY OFF,

I RECOMEND USING MOTHERS POLISH OR ANY RESTORATION POLISH WITH VERY SOFT CLOTH, LIKE AN OLD TSHIRT,ETC, 

PUT THE DESIRED AMOUNT ON THE CLOTH AND RUB LEFT TO RIGHT OR UP AND DOWN JUST LIKE THE WAY YOU SANDED! i USAULLY RUB MY TRIM TILL IT THE FINISH BLING SHOWS UP AND THERES NO MORE RESIDUE LEFT ON THE TRIM PEICE! 

ONCE YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH THE FINISH APPLY A SEALER LIKE ZOOPS SEAL! OR GET THEM PLATED, IT WILL PROBABLY SAVE SOME CASH SINCE YOU DID ALL THE HARD WORK!


tHE RESULTS ARE AMAZING
:0 :cheesy:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

ttt!


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I agree with everything said above except for the final polish, I dislike Mothers very much. And old T-shirts....Not as soft as you think. 

I would change the those to Magic Mix Polish, White Bottle with Bunny rabbit on the label and DuPont SPS detail cloths to polish with....(Looks like cheese cloth but much softer)

Mothers polish will work but its too much work...."A veritable Mutha to work with"
T-shirts/Microfiber/terry cloth/ all work OK but leave little hairline scratches in the metal....The same as if you ran a dry bare finger over the metal....You will see hazy fine scratches somewhat masked by fingerprints.

The DuPont SPS detail towels leave noticeably less marks on the metal and gives a more true mirror effect. They retail for about $10 for 50 cloths so they are not expensive. The Polish retails for $9-100 depending on what size bottles you buy. 8oz,16oz,1 gallon


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Feb 14 2007, 02:15 PM~7260047
> *I agree with everything said above except for the final polish, I dislike Mothers very much. And old T-shirts....Not as soft as you think.
> 
> I would change the those to Magic Mix Polish, White Bottle with Bunny rabbit on the label and DuPont SPS detail cloths to polish with....(Looks like cheese cloth but much softer)
> ...


Cool, yeah i havent ran into any swirl problems yet, but it can happen especially if you have too much grey residue bulid up, seems to make it coarser! I need a pic of the shit your talking about i wanna try it! :biggrin:


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Just search up Magic Mix metal polish and it should pop up before your very eye's
I'm sure DuPont has the towels and the information about them on their website


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## red chev (Feb 1, 2006)

thanks,a true topic of the year nominee if their is such a thing!!


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

>


some things i polished my self
[/quote]



what are the steps to achieve this finsih or is it the same as mentioned before


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

On non trim pieces or castings and machined parts the best thing to do is forget the caustic dip, use a prep cleaner that contains hydrofluoric acid, very poisonous but it strips the oxidation on contact....Just wear rubber gloves and you will be fine, Magic Mix sells it part numbers #648 or #748 8oz or 16oz size. Its not expensive....But it will clean metal for a better shine. But before I use it I Wetsand the parts completely. The smoothness and surface finish are usually non-polished or cast to start so that is the first concern.
Start around 220-320 wet unless it is rough cast then you need a die grinder with carbide burrs and or sanding cartridge rolls. to start the smoothing.
Once it looks like a nice piece then go to the sandpaper and work your way through until you are at 1000 grit....Then you can put it on a buffing wheel for awesome results or use felt bobs on the die grinder. 

Trim is easier to polish than large or complicated parts. The thing is just start doing it. DONT fret about it or worry or have a negative attitude.....Just start and you will figure it out. We all start that way really until you find out what works best for you. I mean if you decide halfway through it, Screw it...Then just put the part on a wire wheel grinder or into a bead blasting machine and you can make it look like you barely touched it in seconds. So there really is no worry of the part looking half done or unfinished if you smooth the casting it will look better too so just dive in with both feet and learn the hands on way....You wont screw anything up if you use common sense....The biggest secrets in polishing are speed tricks and how to get certain brightness levels out of various materials. There is no voodoo or etc.

So start out trying things like wheels or old objects that have no value too you but are made from aluminum or stainless.
I have polished things before when I am bored to just find new techniques and experiment. like raw pieces of bar stock or useless castings. I have to say its safe to say I have never ever ruined a part trying to polish it. I have on occasion had items that didn't turn out very good or had sanding scratches that just wouldn't go away but I learned why and things were fixed easy.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Feb 20 2007, 02:08 PM~7307903
> *On non trim pieces or castings and machined parts the best thing to do is forget the caustic dip, use a prep cleaner that contains hydrofluoric acid, very poisonous but it strips the oxidation on contact....Just wear rubber gloves and you will be fine, Magic Mix sells it part numbers #648 or #748 8oz or 16oz size. Its not expensive....But it will clean metal for a better shine. But before I use it I Wetsand the parts completely. The smoothness and surface finish are usually non-polished or cast to start so that is the first concern.
> Start around 220-320 wet unless it is rough cast then you need a die grinder with carbide burrs and or sanding cartridge rolls. to start the smoothing.
> Once it looks like a nice piece then go to the sandpaper and work your way through until you are at 1000 grit....Then you can put it on a buffing wheel for awesome results or use felt bobs on the die grinder.
> ...


Wanna do some fleetwood stainless rockers 4 me bro? :biggrin:


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

im starting to getthe hang of this but i think im going to need some more practice

anyways what aresome pieces that i can get away with by polishing instead of chroming

for example 

heater core cover in the engine compartment
control arms and other suspension parts
etc. etc.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I am swamped busy with things I have to do/finish etc. now that the weather is starting to warm up and the compressor is now hooked up in my garage.
I gotta get my Monte finished and painted. I also have done alot of work for other people and its like pulling teeth for help in return.
So I am done helping anyone out until all the help I gave out is returned. Unless the pay is excellent.


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

OK SO SO FAR THE METHOD EVERONE IS USING IS LET IT SOAK IN LIE FOR A 1 MIN OR 2... THE DO THE SAND PAPER STAGES...THEN SEAL IT WITH THE ZOOP... WHAT WOULD HAPPEN IF I DONT SEAL IT????? IS THERE ANOTHER SEALER I CAN USE????


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

I WAS JUST THINKING IN STEAD OF USING SAND PAPER... CAN I USE THE SAND BLASTER????


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

whats this zoop seal?? it sounds familiar but i'm drawing a blank, is it a spray on clearcoat or something???


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ferns213+Apr 24 2007, 11:39 AM~7762372-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


its sealer a kit

http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal_feedback.asp


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

NO YOU CANNOT USE A SANDBLASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!! A sandblaster will only change the surface appearance....It does nothing to change high and low spots and thats the whole reason to sand it for polishing....

When you sand you remove all the peaks and valleys so when you polish there is no imperfections....If you sandblast the really really small imperfections may get knocked down but none of the low spots will be raised....Truthfully it will look like shit if blasted.

The action of sanding is a side to side one direction only, leveling out of the surface....Metal polishing is just like paint polishing.....They dont sandblast fresh paint to polish do they?

I dont mean to blast on you but if sandblasting was even the most remote option it probrably would have been listed 19 pages ago. Polishing is a form of art, it is Patience that pays off, preserverance.... Not what tool makes it happen faster. You either love or Hate polishing....I happen to like it very much.

Just settle down and remember there are no shortcuts and there is a trade off to alot of things too. Zoop seal is garbage unless you have a clinical perfect application for it....Like something that never see's weather or heat cold etc.....Maybe interior parts of a car...Possibly but I doubt it....It is expensive it can be washed off with ordinary cleaners and its really a waste of time. just keep up on your polishing and quit being so lazy.

I you want Lazy....Buy the Magic Mix Metal polish....Its the closest thing to easy you will find in Polishing. "The Lazy Man's Polish"


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@May 7 2007, 06:31 AM~7848921
> *NO YOU CANNOT USE A SANDBLASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!! A sandblaster will only change the surface appearance....It does nothing to change high and low spots and thats the whole reason to sand it for polishing....
> 
> When you sand you remove all the peaks and valleys so when you polish there is no imperfections....If you sandblast the really really small imperfections may get knocked down but none of the low spots will be raised....Truthfully it will look like shit if blasted.
> ...


you can but it will only fuck up your parts to the MAX!! not recomended at all they will pit up badly even with the finest media


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

THANKS FOR THE INFO SO IF ZOOP SUCKS WHAT SHOULD I USE???? AND I HAVENT ACTUALLY POLISHED ANYTHING YET CUS I DONT WANNA FUCK SHIT UP SO I WANNA GET EVERYTHING CLEARED UP... CUS I DONT KNOW ABOUT HOW MUTCH SANDING AND SAND PAPER I NEED


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

The amount of paper and the amount and grits needed are all relavant to the size of the job. I never have needed more than a "Job pack" sized amount of any paper to complete a single job....Grits all boil down to surface finish and what your desire is....Go Buy about 2-4 sheets of paper in every grit from 80-1200 That is a good start...Get a few sanding blocks....Body shop supply stores have all kinds of super cool sanding blocks....Use soapy water when you sand too....
Grab a old piece of plate aluminum or pot/pan and practice on it....Learn the basic technique and then apply it to your car....

A excellent Polish like Magic Mix has a sealer in it that makes the surface last awhile...You can wax it also just like paint to keep the air off the metal. Sealers tend to weaken the shine too....

I have hand sanded parts starting with 120 grit finishing with 1200 and hand polished them to end up looking just like they had been buffed for hours so tools are not as important as time and patience.

And quit yellin....Those caps are given me a headache.


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

koo thanks alot bro so you recomend "magic mix" to seal the jobs...... iam try this over the weekend ond some junk parts i have.... so did you do it the same way as the ither guys did with the soaking in lye and sanding????


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

anyother progress pics


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

FUCK IT IAM TRY TO DO SOME SHIT TODAY :biggrin:


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

OK SO I DID IT..... I COULDNT FIND PURE LYE SO I GOT SOME SHIT THAT SAID IT HAD LYE SOME SHIT DRANO MAKES.... I SOAKED IT FOR LIKE 3 MIN IN THE WATER AND DRANO..... THEN I WASHED IT IN CLEAN WATER.... THEN I STARTED THE SANDING WITH 200 THEN WORKED IT UP TO 1000... THEN I RUBBED IT WITH MOTHERS MAG AND ALUMINUM POLISH AND THIS IS WHAT I GOT "SORRY FOR THE SHITTY CELL PHONE PIC"


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## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Jun 29 2006, 08:52 PM~5692163
> *anyone ever used this stuff it works bad ass on stainless and aluminum just by its self and a rag and lots of polishing
> 
> 
> ...


YES... I HAVE


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## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

>


some things i polished my self
[/quote]
GOOD JOB AL...


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Yes the Magic Mix has the sealer in it...It is also the metal polish all in one style. Mothers billet is a whole lot better than the regular mothers but Magic mix still trumps it pretty bad.


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

i was looking for magic mix and non of the fucking auto stores had it.... so i had to get the mothers stuff.... iam try that billet mothers stuff


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I told everyone before...You cant buy it in auto parts stores for the most part...Its only available in truck stops and some speed shops the best place to buy it is on the internet....look at www.valco-cp.com on the where to buy page....bunch of folks listed. Some motorcycle shops carry it too. Its a small company they have no advertising budget...their polish smokes 99.9% of the stuff on the market...Hey everyone's gotta start out somewhere...Once sales go up they can expand and will be found more readily.

You can also buy right off the website listed above. The only people that seem to know what Magic Mix is, is hardcore truckers and hardcore race car people....And most of them know it through the parent name Valco Cincinnati Consumer Products Inc. 
ANY Motorcycle shops that buys from PARTS UNLIMITED, MID-USA, KK Supply and PINGEL, SUDCO, OR J&M ATV will be able to order the polish in for you if they dont stock it.

Hey I do my best to try and get folks to stock it....Most people say they dont sell enough polish to bother stocking it.....Its a lost art anymore...According to some stores anyhow.


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

koo thanks bro


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ferns213_@May 13 2007, 03:09 PM~7894618
> *OK SO I DID IT..... I COULDNT FIND PURE LYE SO I GOT SOME SHIT THAT SAID IT HAD LYE SOME SHIT DRANO MAKES.... I SOAKED IT FOR LIKE 3 MIN IN THE WATER AND DRANO..... THEN I WASHED IT IN CLEAN WATER.... THEN I STARTED THE SANDING WITH 200 THEN WORKED IT UP TO 1000... THEN I RUBBED IT WITH MOTHERS MAG AND ALUMINUM POLISH AND THIS IS WHAT I GOT "SORRY FOR THE SHITTY CELL PHONE PIC"
> 
> 
> ...


loosk good so far



> _Originally posted by MR.LAC_@May 13 2007, 03:45 PM~7894774
> *YES... I HAVE
> *


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

HAHAHA THANKS THAT WAS MY FIRST TRY TOO :biggrin:


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ferns213_@May 19 2007, 10:59 AM~7936149
> *HAHAHA THANKS THAT WAS MY FIRST TRY TOO :biggrin:
> *


the big flat stuff is what will get scarry and descuraging but keep at it fa sho, obviously its easier to do a small strip versus a side panle moding.


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

not mine but i thought i would share


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)




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## 41bowtie (Jul 22, 2006)

BEFORE














AFTER












only the pump head is polished the other stuff is chromed.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

sweet pump


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

That tranny looks sweet! Too bad it will rarely be seen under the car.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@May 21 2007, 07:40 AM~7946236
> *That tranny looks sweet! Too bad it will rarely be seen under the car.
> *


:yessad:


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by sickthree_@May 20 2007, 07:25 PM~7943115
> *
> 
> 
> ...



I THOUGHT WE COULD USE SANDERS OR GRINDERS?????


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

i tried polihing my air cleaner but i cant get it the same as my intake am i doing something wrong??


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Cheap aluminum castings dont always get as shiny....B&M uses the cheapest castings they can find.
You can try using a acid prep on it and polishing it a few more times...it will continue to get brighter but only a little at a time.

And isnt that intake a plated durashine? That stuff doesn't shine like aluminum either....aluminum has a rich color durashine looks like kentucky chrome in a can.


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## Crenshaw's Finest (Mar 9, 2006)

ANYONE DO ANYTHING NEW?


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## Crenshaw's Finest (Mar 9, 2006)

Is there any paticular drill bits/tips i can use to help the process?


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## junbug29s (Sep 12, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Crenshaw's Finest_@Aug 1 2007, 04:41 PM~8449326
> *Is there any paticular drill bits/tips i can use to help the process?
> *


for shining....I used a polishing bonnet on a dremel.


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## CLOWNINWAYZ (Nov 11, 2003)

some good looking work guys..and good tips


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by junbug29s_@Aug 1 2007, 06:04 PM~8449520
> *for shining....I used a polishing bonnet on a dremel.
> *



WONT THAT LEAVE SCRACTH'S


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Just bought a 1/4" Makita Electric die grinder from southern tool in Louisville Kentucky for $99 Its alot nicer for polishing than a air die grinder.....uses less energy. A little heavier though.....Constant 25,000 rpm....works good for felt buff bobs and cartridge rolling the castings smooth. and for carbide burrs for really fast clean up of castings.

I also just bought a cool kit with a assortment of buffs for general polishing for $35.00 from "Village buffing supplies" out of North Carolina....Kannapolis? I think is the town.

I am working on a set of "Salad shooter" style Z28 Camaro wheels and they are a big job....Took one coat of paint stripper to get the clear coat off the "Machined" area of the wheels and 3 more coats to get the silver/gray powder coating off the rest of the wheel. I used the die grinder to smooth the casting and then 120 grit paper to take out grinder marks and then 320 to smooth out the 120 scratches and then 1500 paper to get it "Matte finish" prior to polishing....got 2 done and they are looking ok for the cheap grade of aluminum they really are...


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ferns213_@Aug 3 2007, 11:56 AM~8464319
> *WONT THAT LEAVE SCRACTH'S
> *


slight if any but i doubt it..


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Aug 6 2007, 08:00 AM~8482526
> *Just bought a 1/4" Makita Electric die grinder from southern tool in Louisville Kentucky for $99 Its alot nicer for polishing than a air die grinder.....uses less energy. A little heavier though.....Constant 25,000 rpm....works good for felt buff bobs and cartridge rolling the castings smooth. and for carbide burrs for really fast clean up of castings.
> 
> I also just bought a cool kit with a assortment of buffs for general polishing for $35.00 from "Village buffing supplies" out of North Carolina....Kannapolis? I think is the town.
> ...



PICS


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

sorry using the work computer to get on here so I cant post up any pictures.


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## 41bowtie (Jul 22, 2006)

> Check it out fellas, the only thing chrome here is the check valve and the handle on the slowdown valve. i discovered this new polishing creme called Midas touch


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## Guest (Aug 16, 2007)

billy were the hell is my trim at??

i havent even sent it out yet and you STILL dont have it done? 

id like to finish this car at some point ya know :angry: :biggrin:


----------



## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 41bowtie_@Aug 14 2007, 01:34 PM~8553000
> *
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## BIG WHIT 64 (Nov 30, 2005)

:0


----------



## BIG WHIT 64 (Nov 30, 2005)




----------



## OldDirty (Sep 13, 2002)

Polished all the chrome on the lincoln over the summer I must say I was quite surprised how good it came out. I used 0000 steel wool and applied turtle wax on the wool pad, of course it doesn't do miracles for your chrome so if your chrome is pitted it will need to be re-plated.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Aug 16 2007, 09:34 AM~8567337
> *billy were the hell is my trim at??
> 
> i havent even sent it out yet and you STILL dont have it done?
> ...


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


----------



## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

MAN I JUST NOTCIED I HAD DONE THIS PEICE FROM THE INSIDE WINDOW TRIM OF MY CAR THAT I HAS SITTING INSIDE MY HOUSE FOR LIKE 2 MONTHS...... IT STARTED TO RUST??? ANY OF YOU GUYS HAD THSI PROBLEM???? OH I HAD SANDED THE PEICE AND I HAD BUFFED IT WITH MAGIC MIX


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ferns213_@Sep 26 2007, 02:27 PM~8874635
> *MAN I JUST NOTCIED I HAD DONE THIS PEICE FROM THE INSIDE WINDOW TRIM OF MY CAR THAT I HAS SITTING INSIDE MY HOUSE FOR LIKE 2 MONTHS...... IT STARTED TO RUST??? ANY OF YOU GUYS HAD THSI PROBLEM???? OH I HAD SANDED THE PEICE AND I HAD BUFFED IT WITH  MAGIC MIX
> *


yep,i had a ring that id did for my steering shaft do that  it was thin like aluminum,its some type of cap


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Sep 27 2007, 12:03 AM~8878759
> *yep,i had a ring that id did for my steering shaft do that  it was thin like aluminum,its some type of cap
> *



I GUESS YOU CANT DO EVERYTHING?????? OH WELL


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## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

ttt


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ferns213_@Sep 26 2007, 01:27 PM~8874635
> *MAN I JUST NOTCIED I HAD DONE THIS PEICE FROM THE INSIDE WINDOW TRIM OF MY CAR THAT I HAS SITTING INSIDE MY HOUSE FOR LIKE 2 MONTHS...... IT STARTED TO RUST??? ANY OF YOU GUYS HAD THSI PROBLEM???? OH I HAD SANDED THE PEICE AND I HAD BUFFED IT WITH  MAGIC MIX
> *


seal it maybe... :dunno:


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## kustombuilder (Nov 8, 2005)




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## Skim (May 26, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Apr 1 2006, 08:30 PM~5163209
> *The was results were mouth watering! LOL!
> *


 :0 :0 :0


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Skim_@Oct 1 2007, 06:37 PM~8909790
> *:0  :0  :0
> *


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :ugh: :ugh: ohhhh noooooooo! :roflmao:


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## spinner (Apr 8, 2006)

hey whats up guys, awesome topic. i started on my trunk trim today. couple questions 

1. does the caustic soda bath strip off paint or do i have to strip that first?

2. When you say Left to Right do you mean, left to right, right to left, etc. or do you literally mean JUST one way? coz i was tryin that today but didn't have the patience


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## northwestG (Sep 22, 2003)

I have a 63 impala what metal are the headlight buckets made from and what about the side trim?? aluminum or stainless


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## SW713 (Oct 7, 2004)

> _Originally posted by northwestG_@Oct 15 2007, 02:46 AM~9002852
> *I have a 63 impala what metal are the headlight buckets made from and what about the side trim?? aluminum or stainless
> *



alumayneium :biggrin:


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## northwestG (Sep 22, 2003)

is this wrecked or right?


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## northwestG (Sep 22, 2003)

ttt


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## northwestG (Sep 22, 2003)

ttt


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

heres a spring im doing, im starting to polish the nooks and crannies on all my parts before i send off to the platers, i hate when springs look dull on the inside of the coil due to the lack of polishing!


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## lowriderbob (Dec 2, 2006)

I have a lot of engine parts that a flat aluminum. Do these parts have to be de-anodised be for I start sanding. I was under the impression I only need to sand smooth then polish.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by lowriderbob_@Dec 3 2007, 01:50 PM~9362787
> *I have a lot of engine parts that a flat aluminum.  Do these parts have to be de-anodised be for I start sanding.  I was under the impression I only need to sand smooth then polish.
> *


if they have an anodized coating it needs to be removed, before sanding, or else it will take forever!


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## Guest (Dec 3, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Dec 3 2007, 01:19 PM~9363000
> *if they have an anodized coating it needs to be removed, before sanding, or else it will take forever!
> *


billy how?


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by One Luv_@Dec 3 2007, 02:32 PM~9363086
> *billy how?
> *


look back a couple of pages john, i show you how! a chemical called caustic soda/ lye :cheesy: :biggrin:


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## Guest (Dec 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Dec 4 2007, 01:52 AM~9369330
> *look back a couple of pages john, i show you how! a chemical called caustic soda/ lye :cheesy:  :biggrin:
> *



coo good lookin billy, gonna get started on my trim this weekend i think! :0


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by One Luv_@Dec 4 2007, 12:19 PM~9370627
> *coo good lookin billy, gonna get started on my trim this weekend i think! :0
> *


sweet, just keep a eye on it in there, that shit will weaken the aluminum if it sats too long!


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## Guest (Dec 5, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Dec 4 2007, 11:28 AM~9370678
> *sweet, just keep a eye on it in there, that shit will weaken the aluminum if it sats too long!
> *



*sits :0  :biggrin: good lookin pimp! ill post progress pics of it to so you can check it out


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## ferns213 (Oct 3, 2003)

ANYTHING NEW


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## 58 Del-pala (Jan 21, 2008)

Just wanted to share my success. I have a 58 Chevy and this is my Speedo Bezel. I did half first to show what the difference is.










the polished side is not done yet but I wanted to get a picture of it before the sun set.


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## Hialeah56 (Apr 27, 2004)

don't mind me just tagging this topic :biggrin: btw good reading very interesting


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

> _Originally posted by northwestG_@Oct 15 2007, 10:15 PM~9010868
> *
> 
> 
> ...


X2 want to know also :biggrin: ,good topic LUX just finished reading it from start to finish again


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## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

TTT


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

im on pitbulls trim for his wagon right now i will post pics when its done!


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## northwestG (Sep 22, 2003)

will you post progress pix please


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by northwestG_@Jan 23 2008, 02:49 PM~9764405
> *will you post progress pix please
> *


well, i done started but i will do my best to make it happen...yeah i can do that!


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## 58 Del-pala (Jan 21, 2008)

More work done. Here is the headlight trim from my 58.
Before 









After









No its not 100% done yet. I still need to hit them with some polish to get them finished but I decided to try a different way. I hit this one with some 3m Medium Cut polishing compound first. I will use Fine cut next then shine them with some polish.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 64KyBelair_@Mar 12 2006, 03:33 PM~5032494
> *:thumbsup:
> *




x2


----------



## Supaf|y in the Ky (Jun 16, 2007)




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## single_pump (Jan 31, 2007)

i was woundering how to polish some of the cadillac pieces on the car. when i first attempted to do so it had no affect so im going to try ths out for sure.... good info by the way.


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## single_pump (Jan 31, 2007)

so if you dont do the caustic bath it will take longer with doing straight sand paper? so in this case the caustic bath is just speed up the process?.?.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by single_pump_@Feb 1 2008, 08:41 PM~9844642
> *so if you dont do the caustic bath it will take longer with doing straight sand paper? so in this case the caustic bath is just speed up the process?.?.
> *


yeah t tends to take alot longer, you can also try airplane stripper in spray can with a 320 grit paper, scuff it up first so the stripper eats thru that coating better, spray stripper and let it sit for 10 minutes then rinse then start the process with 220 or 320 just wear gloves, it doesnt do bad either, the caustic bath just is more quick and less messy! you will spend alot of time by just trying to sand with paper, 220 is the leadt grit i will use on aluminum and thats pushing it!


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## Supaf|y in the Ky (Jun 16, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Feb 2 2008, 01:25 AM~9846767
> *yeah t tends to take alot longer, you can also try airplane stripper in spray can with a 320 grit paper, scuff it up first so the stripper eats thru that coating better, spray stripper and let it sit for 10 minutes then rinse then start the process with 220 or 320 just wear gloves, it doesnt do bad either, the caustic  bath just is more quick and less messy! you will spend alot of time by just trying to sand with paper, 220 is the leadt grit i will use on aluminum and thats pushing it!
> *


wow and i though u were jus a goofy looking dumbass now i know ur a goofy looking smart guy :cheesy:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Supaf|y in the Ky_@Feb 2 2008, 10:52 PM~9851848
> *wow and i though u were jus a goofy looking dumbass now i know ur a goofy looking smart guy  :cheesy:
> *


ya better reconize fokker! :0 :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Feb 14 2007, 04:09 AM~7257076
> *this is a topic of the year nominee!! :
> 
> THANKS FOR THE GOOD WORDS! oK, THIS IS HOW I DO IT FOR THE BEST RESULTS WITH NO SWIRLS,
> ...


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## 78Linc (Nov 6, 2004)

has any body used zoops seal? or anything similar to perserve the shine?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 78Linc_@Feb 19 2008, 02:54 AM~9976820
> *has any body used zoops seal? or anything similar to perserve the shine?
> *


i havent yet, im itchin to try it tho!


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## NOTORIOUS68 (Nov 8, 2004)

I am gonna have to see how much some one would charge to do some of mine????


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## kustombuilder (Nov 8, 2005)




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## G_KRALY (Jun 14, 2006)

I am buying a NEW set of 64 non ss side mouldings and i want to strip the factory annodizing and polish them out,now should I just do the caustic acid bath then polish them out or do I have to sand them with all the different grits too?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by G_KRALY_@Mar 13 2008, 02:51 AM~10157481
> *I am buying a NEW set of 64 non ss side mouldings and i want to strip the factory annodizing and polish them out,now should I just do the caustic acid bath then polish them out or do I have to sand them with all the different grits too?
> *


not sure, just try out a peice, it might be ok, and then it might look fuzzy, im not sure what grit they stop at before anodizing those!


----------



## G_KRALY (Jun 14, 2006)




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## montecarlo1987ls (Jan 9, 2006)

ok i have a question i am trying to polish my side rocker panels but i am using a bench buffer i did all the sanding steps here and i still have light scracth marks on the metal the shine is nice i used stainless compound on a spiral wheel then white rouge on loose flannel buff any ideas on what i can be doing wrong


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## montecarlo1987ls (Jan 9, 2006)

here is a piece i done still has some fine scratches that are hard to see what do u guys think


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## 58 Del-pala (Jan 21, 2008)

to get those fine scratches out you might need to wetsand with 2000 again then buff and polish again. Just be sure you keep it wet and go slow when you sand. If you do not want to try that then get some 3M medium cut compound or some fine cut and polish it with that to get the scratches out.


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

honestly the only way to get them ultra fine scraches out is a buffing wheel on a bench grinder, you have to start on one end and follow thru keeping the part wet with fine lowcut polish in one lick, as soon as you wipe on aluminum it scratches back almost always, aluminum is too soft to keep them ultra fine scratches gone!


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## montecarlo1987ls (Jan 9, 2006)

i polished them with a 3/4 hp buffer i used a spiral sisal wheel and a loose caton flannel wheel just need to hit them some more


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

can i use the same method on my rocker moldings? are they stainless


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 96BIG_BODY_@Mar 22 2008, 08:17 PM~10231160
> *can i use the same method on my rocker moldings? are they stainless
> 
> 
> ...


no, the rockers need to be done by wheel, stainless is harder to polish than aluminum and it can break down the metals if you get it too hot and discolor the reflection!


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

you got any steps on how to do them?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 96BIG_BODY_@Mar 22 2008, 10:53 PM~10232031
> *you got any steps on how to do them?
> *


Im just going to send mine out to a polishing specialist for stainless steels, i dont want to fuck with them honestly, im afraid i will fuck up with the polishiing wheel on those larger peices and send them flying in the air! :biggrin:


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)




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## *New Movement Md* (Sep 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by EazyE10286_@Mar 13 2006, 01:35 AM~5037339
> *Can you do all of this just by hand?Or do you have to have any special tools?
> *



Doing ALL the Regal trim by hand. Takes ALOT ALOT ALOT of beer. :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 96BIG_BODY_@Mar 22 2008, 08:17 PM~10231160
> *can i use the same method on my rocker moldings? are they stainless
> 
> 
> ...


those can be wetsanded with 800-2000 grit, then buffed by a bench grinder and soft pad, but you need to support it on the back side with wood, so they wont warp, they need at least 1700 rpms, and black rouge compound,i had a dude that polishes them stainless tanks on semi trucks school me on how to do them yesterday, he did a spot on one of mine and it looked nice!  !


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

^^^^post pics


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

any pics on how it truned out?


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

i havent did them yet, i am however doing a 700r4 tranny at the moment, i will post pics when its finished, ALOT of work! :biggrin:


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Apr 9 2008, 11:30 AM~10372961
> *i havent did them yet, i am however doing a 700r4 tranny at the moment, i will post pics when its finished, ALOT of work! :biggrin:
> *


YOU AINT LYING!!! I TRIED TO SAND AND POLISH MY T350, BUT I GAVE UP AND ENDED UP PAINTING IT TO MATCH!!! AFTER 2 DAYS OF "FINGER FUCKING" AND NO MORE FINGER PRINTS LEFT ON MY FINGERS(THEY WERE SMOOTH AS SILK!) I SAID "FUCK IT!!" ESPECIALLY CONSIDERING YOU HARDLY SEE THE TRANNY AND THEM FUCKS DULL UP REAL FAST, MAKE SURE YOU SEAL THAT FUCKER AFTER, AND YEAH POST SOME PICS BILLY!! :biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 6Deuced_@Apr 9 2008, 08:42 PM~10376761
> *YOU AINT LYING!!! I TRIED TO SAND AND POLISH MY T350, BUT I GAVE UP AND ENDED UP PAINTING IT TO MATCH!!! AFTER 2 DAYS OF "FINGER FUCKING" AND NO MORE FINGER PRINTS LEFT ON MY FINGERS(THEY WERE SMOOTH AS SILK!) I SAID "FUCK IT!!" ESPECIALLY CONSIDERING YOU HARDLY SEE THE TRANNY AND THEM FUCKS DULL UP REAL FAST, MAKE SURE YOU SEAL THAT FUCKER AFTER, AND YEAH POST SOME PICS BILLY!! :biggrin:
> *


i hear ya , i might give up my self, not that i want too, its just its real ruff, and it has alot some deep pits in the casting!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

see the differnce


















before









after my a dremel with 150 and hand sanding with 220  










still not done yet, and a longs way to go! :uh:


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## bucky (Apr 14, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Apr 12 2008, 07:40 PM~10401201
> *see the differnce
> 
> 
> ...


is that the one i brougth u ???


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by bucky_@Apr 12 2008, 09:45 PM~10401230
> *is that the one i brougth u ???
> *


yes sir


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## bucky (Apr 14, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Apr 12 2008, 08:13 PM~10401348
> *yes sir
> *


 :0


----------



## soldierboy (Jan 2, 2008)

> _Originally posted by warning_@Mar 12 2006, 10:00 PM~5036762
> *this is a cool topic and all but if you take off the anodizing with all those
> different grits and compounds the shit won't keep looking that good, it'll dull.
> *


clear coat it when ur done!


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## staylow (Apr 15, 2008)

ttt


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Apr 12 2008, 09:40 PM~10401201
> *see the differnce
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

big differance


----------



## Guest (Jun 3, 2008)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jun 2 2008, 11:30 PM~10784794
> *big differance
> 
> 
> ...


DIFFERENCE  :biggrin: WHAT UP BILLY? LOOKING GOOD BRUH LOOKING GOOD!


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by One Luv_@Jun 3 2008, 09:24 AM~10786227
> *DIFFERENCE   :biggrin:  WHAT UP BILLY? LOOKING GOOD BRUH  LOOKING GOOD!
> *


hahah thanks man, i got that southern spelling...lol :biggrin:


----------



## 84Dippin (Nov 3, 2004)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jun 3 2008, 12:30 AM~10784794
> *big differance
> 
> 
> ...


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jun 2 2008, 09:30 PM~10784794
> *big differance
> 
> 
> ...


What up billy? You put in some mad hours in that tranny... Looks very good... :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by MR.LAC_@Jun 4 2008, 02:29 AM~10794436
> *What up billy? You put in some mad hours in that tranny... Looks very good... :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
> *


thanks adrian, how you been bro?


----------



## Gorilla Bob (Oct 5, 2006)

:biggrin:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

ttt :cheesy:


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Apr 10 2008, 01:09 PM~10381589
> *i hear ya , i might give up my self, not that i want too, its just  its real ruff, and it has alot some deep pits in the casting!
> *





cant believe i said that, i was getting discouraged i guess :uh: :biggrin: Dont never give up on polishing,the results are quite rewarding!


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## MOSTHATED CC (Jul 30, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jun 5 2008, 12:27 AM~10802733
> *cant believe i said that, i was getting discouraged i guess :uh:  :biggrin:  Dont never give up on polishing,the results are quite rewarding!
> *


damn it looks like it you did all that to that transmission yourself?? your the man bro


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## Atom Roberts (Feb 7, 2008)

Billy ima buy you a polishing wheel, you've got a talent... just no fingertips :biggrin:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by MOSTHATED CC+Jun 18 2008, 05:36 AM~10895307-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


sweet i'll take it, yeah i have to let my fingers heal up before i finish the other side...lol :biggrin:


----------



## STR8_CLOWN'N (Nov 24, 2002)

damn billy that looks real good


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by STR8_CLOWN'N_@Jun 18 2008, 01:44 PM~10897611
> *damn billy that looks real good
> *


thanks man


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## JRO (May 13, 2004)

waaaaaaaa...wack...waaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!

Good stuff Hillbilly. :biggrin:


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## lowrid3r (Sep 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC_@Jun 2 2008, 09:30 PM~10784794
> *big differance
> 
> 
> ...


so you started with 150 grit and ended with what grit?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by lowrid3r_@Jun 19 2008, 11:59 PM~10910804
> *so you started with 150 grit and ended with what grit?
> *


started with 150 ended with 2000


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## 81 cuttin (Aug 1, 2005)

WENT TO POWERBLOCKTV.COM UNDER HOW-TO AND HE CLEANS HIS WITH OVEN CLEANER AND GLITZ'S METAL POLISH. THERE ALSO A THING ON HOW TO REMOVE RUST WITH WATER AND WASHING POWDERS.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

how log that trans take lux?

in hours est?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Jun 22 2008, 01:34 PM~10925181
> *how log that trans take lux?
> 
> in hours est?
> *


just on that one side i have about 200 hours...lol, honest to god, its alot of work, im doing the otherside now and its just deja-vu all over again


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

oh i beleive ya thats why i was wondering!


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Jun 22 2008, 02:29 PM~10925583
> *oh i beleive ya thats why i was wondering!
> *


----------



## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)




----------



## OGCHUCKIEBOY63 (Jun 6, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LUXURIOU$LAC+Mar 12 2006, 01:27 PM~5032464-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 *HELL YEA HOMIE...GOOD LOOKEN OUT!!!* :biggrin:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by CHUCKIEBOY63_@Jun 24 2008, 08:00 PM~10943240
> *HELL YEA HOMIE...GOOD LOOKEN OUT!!! :biggrin:
> *


that top quote is wrong do not polish in a circular motion go from end to end of the peice, circular with create swirls


----------



## 81 cuttin (Aug 1, 2005)

http://www.powerblocktv.com/sites/video/powervideo.php check it out.


----------



## Avila86Cutlass (Dec 18, 2007)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@May 14 2007, 10:15 AM~7899818
> *I told everyone before...You cant buy it in auto parts stores for the most part...Its only available in truck stops and some speed shops the best place to buy it is on the internet....look at www.valco-cp.com on the where to buy page....bunch of folks listed. Some motorcycle shops carry it too. Its a small company they have no advertising budget...their polish smokes 99.9% of the stuff on the market...Hey everyone's gotta start out somewhere...Once sales go up they can expand and will be found more readily.
> 
> You can also buy right off the website listed above. The only people that seem to know what Magic Mix is, is hardcore truckers and hardcore race car people....And most of them know it through the parent name Valco Cincinnati Consumer Products Inc.
> ...


So what do I need to buy the whole kit? or just the aluminum and metal polishing.


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL (May 27, 2006)

what would you suggest to use on my big body rocker panels

iw ant them to shine good and if possible to get the little scratches and scuffs out of them


----------



## DANNY305 (Dec 30, 2003)

thanks for the info


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by RAIDERSEQUAL_@Jul 28 2008, 01:26 PM~11196900
> *what would you suggest to use on my big body rocker panels
> 
> iw ant them to shine good and if possible to get the little scratches and scuffs out of them
> *


those are stainless, im having a hardtime trying to learn stainless myself, im trying my rockers, stainless is very hard to master and to acheive a perfect ( no swirl )dep mirror shine on big size objects


----------



## Scrapin63 (Nov 22, 2005)

ttt


----------



## 704 Sheen (Jan 30, 2006)




----------



## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

this procedure will work on the belt line trim for a brougham right?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 96BIG_BODY_@Oct 28 2008, 01:47 AM~11992008
> *this procedure will work on the belt line trim for a brougham right?
> *


yes sir


----------



## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

how has the trim you polished held up?


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

o what about the fender well trim? is that stainless?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 96BIG_BODY+Oct 28 2008, 01:57 AM~11992064-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yep those are stainless  , but very easy to shine up


----------



## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Oct 28 2008, 09:44 AM~11994347
> *real good, and so has the transmission, te tranny has been thru hell since i got it done and it still blings :biggrin:
> yep those are stainless  , but very easy to shine up
> *


any tips on how to do it? mines are all grimmey looking


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 96BIG_BODY_@Oct 28 2008, 01:36 PM~11995328
> *any tips on how to do it? mines are all grimmey looking
> *


just get some poish, and hand rub them, they arent wide so it should be easy to do them shittz without swirls showing :biggrin:


----------



## rolling deep (Jul 1, 2007)

TTT :thumbsup:


----------



## bucky (Apr 14, 2007)

TTT 4 billy


----------



## Ragtop Ted (Sep 11, 2007)

Good topic :biggrin:


----------



## racerboy (Jul 22, 2007)

for sure. i did mine, but i cheated and used a polishing wheel attached to my bench grinder. put a 3m deburring wheel on the left side, and a cloth polishing wheel on the other. if you are polishig stainlees trim, use green rouge. if you are doing aluminum, use red or jewlers rouge. you will cut down the amount of time by 75%


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

great site  
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm


----------



## cheloRO75 (Dec 29, 2007)




----------



## 1979mc (Aug 19, 2008)

ok. i just started polishing all my trim on the monte. for anyone that asked if the lye works and how long to leave the trim in the lye bath. yes it works bad ass. i don't know exactly how much lye i used but i know it was probably alot.if it starts bubbling then you know you used enough. i tried it on a couple of extra pieces so if i messed them up it didn't matter. i left them in for about an hour but i don't think it matters if you leave them longer. the lye reacts to the anodized metal not the stainless. so once all the anodized part is gone it is not corrosive anymore. after i pulled it out of the bath i washed it in the sink with a plastic bristol dish brush to remove the black film that is left on the trim. after i dried i buffed with a high speed 6 inch wool pad on my buffer/bench grinder with silver stainless steel rouge from ace hardware. then i changed the wheel to a softer wheel for higher gloss buffing and used red rouge. looks better than chrome if you ask me.


----------



## Guest (Dec 19, 2008)

anybody tryed a product called, anodize stripper? i work in a body shop and we got a product catalog in the mail the other day, was flipping thru it and seen this stuff.. but b4 i could call on it, the catolg had been throw away, so i have no way of find out any more info, i called our local paint supply warehouse and they didnt carry it or havent heard of it..


----------



## cheloRO75 (Dec 29, 2007)




----------



## cl1965ss (Nov 27, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 1979mc_@Dec 18 2008, 09:17 AM~12464120
> *ok. i just started polishing all my trim on the monte. for anyone that asked if the lye works and how long to leave the trim in the lye bath. yes it works bad ass. i don't know exactly how much lye i used but i know it was probably alot.if it starts bubbling then you know you used enough. i tried it on a couple of extra pieces so if i messed them up it didn't matter. i left them in for about an hour but i don't think it matters if you leave them longer. the lye reacts to the anodized metal not the stainless. so once all the anodized part is gone it is not corrosive anymore. after i pulled it out of the bath i washed it in the sink with a plastic bristol dish brush to remove the black film that is left on the trim. after i dried i buffed with a high speed 6 inch wool pad on my buffer/bench grinder with silver stainless steel rouge from ace hardware. then i changed the wheel to a softer wheel for higher gloss buffing and used red rouge. looks better than chrome if you ask me.
> *


Where did you find the lye at?


----------



## dj kurse 1 (Sep 17, 2008)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Mar 12 2006, 02:20 PM~5032415
> *I just wanted to post this up to help some about polishing their own trim, it can be expensive, so do it yourself if you have the time!  It is time consuming but worth it!  The top pic is a picture of a scratched up weathered peice and a same peice sitting above it!  The peice above it was sanded with 220 in one direction left to right long ways and warm water until it was all the way dull!  (Do not sand in a circular motion cause this will leave swirls out the ass!)  Sand left to right or up and down only!  I sanded in the direction of the peice length only a 1/4 at a time then ran over the whole thing with long strokes of 220 grit and warm water! The peice on top is how it should look (dull)!
> *


can this be done to the front bumper of my 80 Caddy Coupe? :biggrin:


----------



## Guest (Dec 31, 2008)

> _Originally posted by dj kurse 1_@Dec 31 2008, 02:09 AM~12567383
> *can this be done to the front bumper of my 80 Caddy Coupe? :biggrin:
> *


 to the top stainless peice of it yes but the rest no


----------



## Ragtop Ted (Sep 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by One Luv_@Dec 31 2008, 04:45 AM~12567927
> *to the top stainless peice of it yes but the rest no
> *


x2


----------



## cl1965ss (Nov 27, 2007)

> _Originally posted by show-bound_@Mar 12 2006, 06:05 PM~5033517
> *dremel tool with polishing tips is what i am using
> *


Damn you will be there forever! :biggrin:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by dj kurse 1_@Dec 31 2008, 03:09 AM~12567383
> *can this be done to the front bumper of my 80 Caddy Coupe? :biggrin:
> *


no, chrome doesnt ppolish well, it will show the nickel if you try it


----------



## Guest (Jan 20, 2009)

SO DO I NEED A SOFT AND/OR HARD BUFF? AND JSUT WHITE ROUGE OR?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by One Luv_@Jan 20 2009, 06:37 PM~12763154
> *SO DO I NEED A SOFT AND/OR HARD BUFF? AND JSUT WHITE ROUGE OR?
> *


soft and yes mother aluminum polish works great on a soft rag or shirt..


----------



## Guest (Jan 21, 2009)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Jan 20 2009, 06:18 PM~12763639
> *soft and yes mother aluminum polish works great on a soft rag or shirt..
> *


COOL CUZ I JSUT PICKED UP A 3/4HP POLISH BUFFER MOTOR FROM EASTWOOD, BUT I DIDNT GET BUFFS YET B/C I DIDNT KNOW FOR SURE. SO JUST GET A 6" SOFT STICH BUFF AND MOTHERS, DONT EVEN USE THE WHITE BUFF ROUGE?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by One Luv_@Jan 20 2009, 07:21 PM~12763675
> *COOL CUZ I JSUT PICKED UP A 3/4HP POLISH BUFFER MOTOR FROM EASTWOOD, BUT I DIDNT GET BUFFS YET B/C I DIDNT KNOW FOR SURE. SO JUST GET A 6" SOFT STICH BUFF AND MOTHERS, DONT EVEN USE THE WHITE BUFF ROUGE?
> *


it will work on deep scratches, but for a final polish use the mothers


----------



## Guest (Jan 21, 2009)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Jan 20 2009, 06:22 PM~12763686
> *it will work on deep scratches, but for a final polish use the mothers
> *


bet bet mayne, now i jsut gotta finish stripping the parts and let the magic begin,lol i been wanting to do this for a VERY loooooooooooooooooong time, i HATE how they get that rainbow looking effect, gonna be nice to have jsut straight shine! :biggrin:


----------



## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

good price on magic mix

$6 or so

http://lyonsperformance.com/magic-mix-meta...lish-p-101.html


----------



## BROOKLYNBUSA (Oct 10, 2007)

TTT


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

s lets say i dip some annodized alum trim in lye for a while strip of the anno and et tem polished up....and if i want to coat them ill be using clear, what would you guys say is the better GT to use for the final scuff befor CC? so the scratcmarks are not noticeable. but it can still adhere properly.


----------



## charles85 (Apr 8, 2007)

:thumbsup:


----------



## BIG NICK (Aug 5, 2003)




----------



## ec64foshow (Dec 30, 2002)

valco-cp.com


----------



## Johnny562 (Jan 25, 2008)




----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Mar 14 2009, 01:17 PM~13280012
> *s lets say i dip some annodized alum trim in lye for a while strip of the anno and et tem polished up....and if i want to coat them ill be using clear, what would you guys say is the better GT to use for the final scuff befor CC? so the scratcmarks are not noticeable. but it can still adhere properly.
> *


?


----------



## MR.LAC (Feb 1, 2006)

TTT


----------



## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

Polished my brake pedal

A little messy but you get the idea


----------



## Royal50 (Sep 11, 2003)

:thumbsup:


----------



## flawless86 (Feb 22, 2009)

i have a 86 cutty i want to polish my window trim they aer alum but some one told me i can not becouse it has a clear cote on ta trim how could do mine???


----------



## KandyPainted (Mar 1, 2008)

Surf City Garage has the best chrome polish i have used by far!!!!!!!!!!!! I want to use the rest of their stuff like the wax and see how it works


----------



## Lil Payaso (Jan 17, 2007)

good topic


----------



## FajitasOnGRill956 (Mar 31, 2007)

what would you recomend for g body mirrors?


----------



## C h e v r o l e t I m p a l a s (Dec 4, 2004)

:cheesy:


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## Royal50 (Sep 11, 2003)

Today I tried the lye shit that I bought at Ace hardware and it didn't work for me.
This stuff is 100% lye. I dipped the end of one trim in a small container with hot water and some lye, 80% water and maybe 20% lye and nothing. It did't even fizz. Did I do something wrong or bouth the wrong lye?


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

man where are you guys getting pure LYE from...? noone in town seems to stock it....something about it stoped being sold on the shefl 3 yrs [email protected] the last time i bought it....


links?


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by slo_@May 23 2009, 12:03 AM~13975670
> *man where are you guys getting pure LYE from...? noone in town seems to stock it....something about it stoped being sold on the shefl 3 yrs [email protected] the last time i bought it....
> links?
> *


----------



## ec64foshow (Dec 30, 2002)

Try ebay they have Red Devil Lye on there.Or a chemical supply co. may have the sodium hydroxide in bulk form.


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## Royal50 (Sep 11, 2003)

Can someone tell me if I did it wrong? I must of not put in enough Lye cause mine did not fizz at all and nothing turn white.


----------



## dough957 (Nov 16, 2007)

can i use a da sander instead of doing it by hand?


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by dough957_@May 28 2009, 10:16 PM~14032277
> *can i  use a da sander instead of doing it by hand?
> *


hell no i wouldnt too risky


----------



## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f178txAEnek&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRvtuIFoqCM&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRQsVxngViw&feature=related


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

so il be getting some trim back polished and i want to cler coat it right after...would you say spray the clear right on it after i get them back or scuff them up with a particular grit something that wont show scratches... any input on this would be great.


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

wow these came out great


----------



## -BIG NIKO- (Jun 20, 2009)

*GOOD TOPIC PRE$IDENT$ IT WORKS GOOD*


----------



## 79 cutty (Sep 27, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sickthree_@Jun 1 2009, 09:00 PM~14067966
> *http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f178txAEnek&feature=related
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRvtuIFoqCM&feature=related
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRQsVxngViw&feature=related
> *


Dude on the camera is a tool...but great information! :biggrin:


----------



## Ese Caqui (Dec 17, 2004)

What do you guys use to hammer out dings and dents?


----------



## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Ese Caqui_@Oct 7 2009, 04:46 PM~15294429
> *What do you guys use to hammer out dings and dents?
> *


I am going to try my body hammers on some of mine.


----------



## da bomb (Aug 14, 2001)

> _Originally posted by lowrider_620_@Mar 12 2006, 04:56 PM~5033951
> *what if the chrome on the trim is bubbleing
> *


Is it like milky white?... cloudy... thats the anodize coating comming off. You should get it off before doing the whole process... 

here a good vid...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY7mh7sFiyY


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## ClassicGMJunkie (Nov 13, 2004)

plastic hammers and a shot bag should do it for small dents. i know my trunk panel will give me a lot of practice....


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## DYABLITO (Oct 10, 2005)

ttt


----------



## BigTay (Nov 22, 2008)

> _Originally posted by One Luv_@Dec 19 2008, 05:30 PM~12477646
> *anybody tryed a product called, anodize stripper? i work in a body shop and we got a  product catalog in the mail the other day, was flipping thru it and seen this stuff.. but b4 i could call on it, the catolg had been throw away, so i have no way of find out any more info, i called our local paint supply warehouse and they didnt carry it or havent heard of it..
> *


I found this on the net, it's a little pricey($59.00) but maybe this will help... Here's what they say... Anodize & Chrome Stripper is a super fast commercial grade stripper. It outperforms all others in speed and quality. Does not attack the aluminum. 1 lb makes 3 gallons. (www.caswellcanada.ca/shop/anodize-and-chrome-stripper.html) Good Topic keep it going


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## tko_818 (Nov 4, 2009)

i polished and straightened all of my old moldings, its easy but time consuming. it saves a grip of money tho, i bought a harbor frieght polishing kit for 25$ 3 years ago and im always getting props for my shiny ass trim. from my experience, the stainless trim on my 64 polished up the best, the aluminum was a pain in the ass sometimes too. oh and idk if someones brought it up but you can strip aluminum with scentless heavy duty easy off oven cleaner. it worked great for me.


----------



## brn2ridelo (Dec 5, 2005)

anyone know were to get that pink polish hes talking about

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRQsVxngViw&feature=related


----------



## tko_818 (Nov 4, 2009)

> _Originally posted by brn2ridelo_@Nov 11 2009, 11:50 AM~15633705
> *anyone know were to get that pink polish hes talking about
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRQsVxngViw&feature=related
> *


i have seen it before but i dont remember where.. lemme look around. the best is actually mothers billet. works on billet, chrome, aluminum and stainless like a effing charm!


----------



## .... (Oct 21, 2009)

bump!!!


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## For Sale (Jan 6, 2005)

I used Drano to strip my trip. Works excellent.


----------



## painloc21 (Sep 3, 2003)

great topic!


----------



## STLGHOUSEKID (May 23, 2009)

> _Originally posted by painloc21_@Jan 29 2010, 09:50 PM~16456593
> *great topic!
> *


:yes:


----------



## Ragtop Ted (Sep 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by painloc21_@Jan 29 2010, 07:50 PM~16456593
> *great topic!
> *


Yup


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

toppic needs to be pinned and de cluttered with all the bumps for easy reading


----------



## Guest (Feb 2, 2010)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Jun 16 2009, 03:15 PM~14208437
> *so il be getting some trim back polished and i want to cler coat it right after...would you say spray the clear right on it after i get them back or scuff them up with a particular grit something that wont show scratches... any input on this would be great.
> *


 i would think a proper adhesion promoter would do the trick, or that joops metal sealer


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

after the trim is polishd u have only 2 options excluding chrome plating which can crack due to exspanding or when temperature changes occur. aluminum is soft and has pores like our skin. u can re anodize which is really exspensive. the next best thing is diamond clear from eastwood. 2 thin coats then a medium coat but prep with alcohol first and let each coat u spray flash 15 min inbetween. chrome plating thin aluminum will crack and peel if twistd while reinstalling them on the car. big money wastd.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

also when working with (caustic soda/ 100% lye) use extreme caution. u have to watch out and where protective gear. hydrophloric acids lil brother.lol... i have been severly burned by this chemical and learnd my lesson about the way to proper handle. u just have to respect it once u been burnd good.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Mar 14 2009, 02:17 PM~13280012
> *
> s lets say i dip some annodized alum trim in lye for a while strip of the anno and et tem polished up....and if i want to coat them ill be using clear, what would you guys say is the better GT to use for the final scuff befor CC? so the scratcmarks are not noticeable. but it can still adhere properly.
> *


1000 probably. but i heard from a guy that has been polishing for 2o years that diamond clear is really a good choice.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Royal50_@May 21 2009, 02:17 PM~13958980
> *
> Today I tried the lye shit that I bought at Ace hardware and it didn't work for me.
> This stuff is 100% lye.  I dipped the end of one trim in a small container with hot water and some lye, 80% water and maybe 20% lye and nothing.  It did't even fizz.  Did I do something wrong or bouth the wrong lye?
> *


add more lye or down size the water. try 50/50. i found out adding more aluminum trim into the solution speeds up the process due to reaction.


----------



## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Feb 3 2010, 09:30 PM~16504320
> *1000 probably. but i heard from a guy that has been polishing for 2o years that diamond clear is really a good choice.
> *


i told you i got a cheaper easier way to do it :biggrin:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Big Doe_@Feb 3 2010, 09:38 PM~16504428
> *
> i told you i got a cheaper easier way to do it  :biggrin:
> *


were gonna have to try ur method.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> for anyone that asked if the lye works and how long to leave the trim in the lye bath. yes it works bad ass. i don't know exactly how much lye i used but if it starts bubbling then you know you used enough. i tried it on a couple of extra pieces so if i messed them up it didn't matter. i left them in for about an hour but i don't think it matters if you leave them longer. it does matter. lye will eat aluminum until theirs nothing left. u got check on it.


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> for anyone that asked if the lye works and how long to leave the trim in the lye bath. yes it works bad ass. i don't know exactly how much lye i used but if it starts bubbling then you know you used enough. i tried it on a couple of extra pieces so if i messed them up it didn't matter. i left them in for about an hour but i don't think it matters if you leave them longer) it does matter. lye will eat aluminum until theirs nothing left. gota check on it


----------



## garageartguy (Nov 17, 2008)

Nice topic!


----------



## 64 CRAWLING (Nov 26, 2001)

:biggrin:


----------



## BigPit903 (Jan 6, 2009)

> _Originally posted by garageartguy_@Feb 8 2010, 06:54 AM~16547465
> *Nice topic!
> *


 :yes: :yes:


----------



## BigPit903 (Jan 6, 2009)

might be helpful.. im bout to try it out today..
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/3401_stainless...pair/index.html


----------



## EastValleyLowLow (Dec 24, 2007)

yup just started polishing my own parts as well went to lowes and got a buffer wheel and that compound stuff and went at it and my parts coming out clean 

ttt for this topic 

highly encouraged to try it out its fun to see shiny parts :biggrin: :thumbsup:


----------



## BigPit903 (Jan 6, 2009)

just did a part of this trimming to c it worked... came out great!!! used 320 600 1000 1200 grit...... polished by hand.. still got a great shine.. very time consuming tho .... TTT :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## Big Rich (Nov 25, 2001)

all you need to do is sand with 220 and then buff with red compound then hit it with green compound,,they sell the bars on ebay or i got em too :biggrin: or i can chrome em for you


----------



## Big Rich (Nov 25, 2001)




----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

rich does great work.


----------



## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Big Rich_@Feb 16 2010, 03:07 AM~16626382
> *all you need to do is sand  with 220 and then buff with red compound then hit it with green compound,,they sell the bars on ebay or i got em too :biggrin: or i can chrome em for you
> 
> 
> ...



Really???


----------



## Car_Cars77 (Feb 19, 2010)

Let me check the details of the company.


Chevrolet SuperChargers


----------



## low4ever (May 16, 2003)

so is stainless anodized?


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by low4ever_@Feb 25 2010, 02:54 PM~16722995
> *so is stainless anodized?
> *


nope


----------



## BROOKLYNBUSA (Oct 10, 2007)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Feb 25 2010, 03:16 PM~16724280
> *nope
> *


 :wave:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by BROOKLYNBUSA_@Feb 25 2010, 05:18 PM~16724293
> *:wave:
> *


whats good mayne :biggrin:


----------



## low4ever (May 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Feb 25 2010, 03:16 PM~16724280
> *nope
> *


Thanks Billy!


----------



## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)




----------



## jerry62 (Nov 11, 2008)

What about the interior trim on early 60's impalas attached to the headliner? How do I clean it up?


----------



## el camino man (Oct 31, 2008)

How can I tell if I have stainless or aluminum peices?? I need to get the landau trim and window trims redone on my 85 caprice coupe...anyone???


----------



## 64 CRAWLING (Nov 26, 2001)

i heard hair n greese remover drano works goos???????


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by el camino man_@Mar 4 2010, 01:02 AM~16791371
> *How can I tell if I have stainless or aluminum peices?? I need to get the landau trim and window trims redone on my 85 caprice coupe...anyone???
> *


if a magnet sticks then its stainlesss, if not then aluminum, i believe a 85 caprice has aluminum, most 70's+ 80's cars do


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

Roebic makes the best lye solution in my opinion


----------



## el camino man (Oct 31, 2008)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Mar 4 2010, 02:07 PM~16797126
> *if a magnet sticks then its stainlesss, if not then aluminum, i believe a 85 caprice has aluminum, most 70's+ 80's cars do
> *


Thanks a lot homie....gonna give it a try. I found some hard to find trims from the junk yard. The car was all burned up so theirs some smoke stains on them....gonna see if I can polish them back up :biggrin:


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

just keep an eye on the chemical. be safe


----------



## drunkpunk (Mar 8, 2010)

hello all im new around here 
been polishing all SS and alum trim on a 60 impala 
been just sanding the alum down and thought i would try the costic soda trick 
any one know if i deloot with water if so at what ratio 
or should i just rub it on with a rag 

thanks


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

I do spray can paint cap full ofcrystal soda(lye) and about 10 liters water in a 4inch x 4 foot pvc pipe. caped on one end. but ratio depends, the more aluminum in the tube the less crystal u will need. the more aluminum you put together the less chemical you need because the lye activates with aluminum in some sense


----------



## drunkpunk (Mar 8, 2010)

ok thanks 
guess i should go with the crystals rather then this stuff hair and grease drain crap what i was planning to use was a pice of 6"X6' pvc like pipe cut in half with caps on both ends will that work or should i go with some thing like what your useing


----------



## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by jerry62_@Feb 27 2010, 11:56 AM~16741627
> *What about the interior trim on early 60's impalas attached to the headliner? How do I clean it up?
> *


its alum,...


----------



## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by drunkpunk_@Mar 9 2010, 10:10 PM~16844210
> *ok thanks
> guess i should go with the crystals rather then this stuff hair and grease drain crap what i was planning to use was a pice of 6"X6' pvc like pipe cut in half with caps on both ends will that work or should i go with some thing like what your useing
> *


 :0 dont cap both ends, only one end and stand the tube upward, not letting the gases excape could be disaterous


----------



## drunkpunk (Mar 8, 2010)

i cut it in 1/2 long ways so its like a troth i also have a chunk of pvc rain gutter but i still have to get caps for the ends 

thanks


----------



## drunkpunk (Mar 8, 2010)

:thumbsup: uffin: :thumbsup: uffin: :thumbsup: uffin: :thumbsup: uffin: :thumbsup: uffin: :thumbsup: 
WOOOOOOHOOOOOOO it works great thanks everyone here on LAYITLOW just saved me hours and hours and hours of work


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

glad we could help :thumbsup:


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## drunkpunk (Mar 8, 2010)

one more ? can i dump bakeing soda in the water to nuetralize the lye or just let it set outside for a wile


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by drunkpunk_@Mar 12 2010, 06:07 PM~16873020
> *one more ? can i dump bakeing soda in the water to nuetralize the lye or just let it set outside for a wile
> *


you trying to get rid of it after your done stripping?? i dump it in the back yard over weeds and shit, kills them fast.. or ive heard you can pour it down your drain as well and it wont hurt anything since thats what it was intended for to clear hair and gunk  

it will eventually deaden itself tho if it sets, aluminum activates it , but i wouldnt let any animal drink it or anything in that nature :biggrin:


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## drunkpunk (Mar 8, 2010)

thanks again for all the help 
yea i dumped it in one of them big city trash cans thats what i was useing to wash off the parts after so my dogs wouldnt get in it 
its been setting now for few days im going to dump it out back in the alley just didnt want it to start smokin or any thing lol and some one call the PD on me


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## The CadiKingpin (Jun 14, 2009)

Get a stainless steel tray like this,when your done pour the remains down a ''problem'' drain and flush with hot water.


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## BASH3R (Jan 16, 2008)




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## BIG MARC (Mar 29, 2006)




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## BAD70 (Feb 12, 2009)

Anyone use this kit, to polish and seal? Seems reasonable.

http://www.everbritecoatings.com/cart/inde...&products_id=40


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## MARINATE (Jan 21, 2004)

:biggrin:


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## BIG MARC (Mar 29, 2006)

TTT


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BAD70_@Jun 3 2010, 02:28 PM~17686556
> *Anyone use this kit, to polish and seal?  Seems reasonable.
> 
> http://www.everbritecoatings.com/cart/inde...&products_id=40
> *


probably just like zoops


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

is it the same 4 stainless steel trim wat r the trims n moldings on a 74 caprice glasshouse


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## gizmoscustoms (Sep 21, 2007)




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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 74chevy glasshouse_@Oct 25 2010, 12:07 AM~18898110
> *is it the same 4 stainless steel trim wat r the trims n moldings on a 74 caprice glasshouse
> *


?


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## rivman (May 31, 2008)

SUP HOMIE!


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## DEAD PRE$IDENT$ (Oct 8, 2005)

sup marty


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## big C (Dec 5, 2002)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Mar 25 2006, 04:09 PM~5118927
> *Oh god no!    They looked at me funny when I went to buy this stuff at lowes, they probably thought i was up to something!  Things you do for the love of detail!
> *


Can you still buy this stuff at lowes i couldnt find anything around here with lye in it at lowes or home depot


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## colo63impala (Nov 12, 2010)

> _Originally posted by big C_@Dec 13 2010, 08:07 AM~19314047
> *Can you still buy this stuff at lowes i couldnt find anything around here with lye in it at lowes or home depot
> *




Just bought a can this weekend @ lowes


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## big C (Dec 5, 2002)

> _Originally posted by colo63impala_@Dec 13 2010, 11:07 AM~19314959
> *Just bought a can this weekend @ lowes
> *


Damn for real I looked in both places and couldnt find it


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## 41bowtie (Jul 22, 2006)




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## big C (Dec 5, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 41bowtie_@Dec 13 2010, 03:19 PM~19316654
> *
> 
> 
> ...


Thats nice now give me all the shit you pictured :biggrin:


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## colo63impala (Nov 12, 2010)

> _Originally posted by big C_@Dec 13 2010, 11:28 AM~19315111
> *Damn for real I looked  in both places and couldnt find it
> *


I would ask but the lowes I went to had about 10 on the shelf in plumbing


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## GT~PLATING (Aug 17, 2010)

> _Originally posted by 81 Hustle_@Mar 12 2006, 09:46 PM~5036652
> *you can avoid sanding off the anodizing by using common household cleaners.
> *


oven cleaner strips off the anodizing


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

> _Originally posted by 74chevy glasshouse_@Oct 24 2010, 08:07 PM~18898110
> *is it the same 4 stainless steel trim wat r the trims n moldings on a 74 caprice glasshouse
> *


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Mar 12 2006, 04:20 PM~5032415
> *I just wanted to post this up to help some about polishing their own trim, it can be expensive, so do it yourself if you have the time!  It is time consuming but worth it!  The top pic is a picture of a scratched up weathered peice and a same peice sitting above it!  The peice above it was sanded with 220 in one direction left to right long ways and warm water until it was all the way dull!  (Do not sand in a circular motion cause this will leave swirls out the ass!)  Sand left to right or up and down only!  I sanded in the direction of the peice length only a 1/4 at a time then ran over the whole thing with long strokes of 220 grit and warm water! The peice on top is how it should look (dull)!
> 
> heres a lil info from another company
> ...


thanks man, im going to try this on my cadi trim  :h5:


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

> _Originally posted by Coast One_@Mar 13 2006, 06:53 PM~5041049
> *:thumbsup:
> 
> we did it by hand using sand paper first, then a palm sander, then we figured out some household cleaners disolve the anodizing... found out most of the scratches were in the anodizing.
> *


except for a ding or 2 thats where most of mine are


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

> _Originally posted by slo_@Mar 16 2006, 11:00 AM~5058917
> *also , for other stainless and aluminum, try using toothpaste, it has a fine grit that will polish up nice, rub it on there, scothcbrite pad or something similar in a bout 5 min of rubbing you will have a nice shiny peice
> *


i have had mixed results with scotchbrite pads...


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)




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## gizmoscustoms (Sep 21, 2007)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Mar 24 2006, 08:01 PM~5115245
> *Ok check it out!  I got this stuff i found at lowes that is 100% LYE and stripped a section  in less than 1 minute!  I used half a bucket of warm water then a full spray can top of that stuff I bought!  I took his advice and bought a 5 foot pvc pipe with end caps to put mouldings in and let them soak checkin gevery 10 minutes, make sure to check to see f they are dull yet!  I was amazed how quick this shit ate of that coating thanks bro!  The long peice was a result of the polishing i saved 3 hours of sanding and still had the same results after polished! Bling bling!
> *


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

:ttt:


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## pimp66801 (Jul 5, 2008)

> _Originally posted by sickthree_@Feb 26 2010, 08:04 PM~16737190
> *
> 
> 
> ...


  Any Grill polishing Tricks? or are they always a beach :biggrin:


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## pimp66801 (Jul 5, 2008)

> _Originally posted by pimp66801_@Mar 1 2011, 02:39 AM~19986781
> * Any Grill polishing Tricks? or are they always a beach  :biggrin:
> *


 :dunno:


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## califas (Jul 10, 2008)

> _Originally posted by DEAD PRE$IDENT$_@Mar 12 2006, 02:27 PM~5032464
> *Once its all sanded with 220 half the battle is over! Next repeat the same sanding method with warm water and 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000, 1200,1500, and last 2000!  When finished with 2000 get some good aluminum polish and a soft rag and apply it on to the trim peice in a swift left to right motion following the lenthg your working on.! your rag will soon turn a dark blackish/gray film then take a clean cloth and wipe down gently! Check it out!  This was done by hand!  Bling Bling!      Almost Chrome!    So save your money and doit yourself p.s. if you have the time! :biggrin:
> *


GOOD INFO. HOMIE :thumbsup:


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## pimp66801 (Jul 5, 2008)

> _Originally posted by califas_@Mar 6 2011, 11:06 PM~20031939
> *GOOD  INFO. HOMIE :thumbsup:
> *


  THANKS HOMIE


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## DETONATER (Aug 3, 2009)

ttt


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## Detour64 (Jan 4, 2003)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 
awesome topic......hope it works out for me....


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## JINXED32 (Nov 19, 2009)

DEAD PRE$IDENT$ said:


> Once its all sanded with 220 half the battle is over! Next repeat the same sanding method with warm water and 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000, 1200,1500, and last 2000! When finished with 2000 get some good aluminum polish and a soft rag and apply it on to the trim peice in a swift left to right motion following the lenthg your working on.! your rag will soon turn a dark blackish/gray film then take a clean cloth and wipe down gently! Check it out! This was done by hand! Bling Bling! Almost Chrome! So save your money and doit yourself p.s. if you have the time! :biggrin:




:thumbsup:


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## rememberFROGG (Mar 12, 2004)

Good topic


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## MEANT TO BE 64 (Nov 10, 2010)

Good topic


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

dose anyone know any brand names of drain cleaner that works i dont want to look like a meth head readin all the labels


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

DEAD PRE$IDENT$ said:


> that top quote is wrong do not polish in a circular motion go from end to end of the peice, circular with create swirls


 how do u get rid of swirls???


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

74chevy glasshouse said:


> how do u get rid of swirls???


I havent seen swirls caused my polishing before :wow:


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

droppen98 said:


> dose anyone know any brand names of drain cleaner that works i dont want to look like a meth head readin all the labels


 you can by the Lab quality LYE online, but I used the yellow can of heavy duty oven cleaner. Workes good!


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

I removed the anodized coating and sanded with 800 grit on my trim to remove minor pitting. Then used a sisal wheel with emory compound and then followed with a cotton wheel and White rouge and they turned out great. All that hand sanding is for the birds :yes:


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

has anyone tried using the buffing compound , glaze , polish that u use for paint??? At my work a guy used compound on thefront vent window trim on a 58 impala i put a magnet not stick so its not stainless and it came out good


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

74chevy glasshouse said:


> has anyone tried using the buffing compound , glaze , polish that u use for paint??? At my work a guy used compound on thefront vent window trim on a 58 impala i put a magnet not stick so its not stainless and it came out good


Its all the same sh*t, it all depends what grit is in the compound. But their are specific products for polishing the trim


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## milian70 (Dec 17, 2009)

MEANT TO BE 64 said:


> Good topic


X2.....:thumbsup:


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

how do you know what parts r anodized ?? r all the aluminum parts on a car anodized??


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## pink63impala (Aug 5, 2004)

74chevy glasshouse said:


> has anyone tried using the buffing compound , glaze , polish that u use for paint??? At my work a guy used compound on thefront vent window trim on a 58 impala i put a magnet not stick so its not stainless and it came out good


 I use it for headlights..


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## bump512 (Dec 29, 2008)

x512!!!


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## bump512 (Dec 29, 2008)

again this works on aluminum only right?? or??


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

so would this work on my trim on my 84 caprice??? the rocker trim that goes along the bottom of the car???? if so im going to have some fun weeks ahead of me polishing them bitches to look chrome lol


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## <<<DR.J>>> (Jan 12, 2009)

yes it will work on the caprice but like said above get the biggest bench grinder you can find and some polishing wheels I like the old ones I found an old one with ballbearing motor and a heavy stand works excellent its getting harder and harder to find decent tools


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## <<<DR.J>>> (Jan 12, 2009)

mines also big enough I stack a few wheels up to cover more surface


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

i sanded with 800 then 1000 then 1500 then white rouge u can still see some sand scratches whats wrong not sanding enough???


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## milian70 (Dec 17, 2009)

74chevy glasshouse said:


> i sanded with 800 then 1000 then 1500 then white rouge u can still see some sand scratches whats wrong not sanding enough???


Don't think you did enough sanding .. I just finished up one of my skirts i did 1000,1200,1500,2000 and last 2500 then used a rag with mothers polish and it came out clean..:thumbsup:


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## 90towncar (Jun 26, 2002)

Eastwood sells an anodizing remover.. It works good, I used it to do mine.


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

ughk... i just started doing this on some window trims on my regal and instead of coming in and reading all this i thought i rememberd how to do it... lets just say my piece is dull as fuck and aggrivating me lmfao.... im going to the store to find some damn lye


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

Just get yellow can of easyoff oven cleaner. A lot of places don't sell it any more. U can buy online but the can of oven cleaner is cheaper and available.


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## Fine59Bel (Apr 16, 2004)

90towncar said:


> Eastwood sells an anodizing remover.. It works good, I used it to do mine.


I just got this... Stuff is the shit. I wish I got it a while ago


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## Bart (Jan 18, 2009)

has anyone used this?
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-clear-gloss-bare-metal-aero-11-oz.html


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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

:nicoderm:


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## henry36 (Sep 4, 2009)

Anybody try polishing headlight trim? Like the headlight trim on a 63 impala? Any suggestions on round pieces?


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

henry36 said:


> Anybody try polishing headlight trim? Like the headlight trim on a 63 impala? Any suggestions on round pieces?


a rotary tool with a cotton buff. Like the one that you can use as a grinder


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## henry36 (Sep 4, 2009)

How about the sanding process? Or would it be best to skip that and just de anodize and buff/polish?


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

How long u leave easy off on I used it but it just turned peices white??


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

henry36 said:


> How about the sanding process? Or would it be best to skip that and just de anodize and buff/polish?


I let my pieces sit with oven cleaner then took 1000 grit to remove the white look. Then went up to 1500. Wet sanded with both grits. Then took a sisal wheel and Emory and polished it. Then took the cotton buff with white clay and finished polishing them


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## singlegate (Jan 19, 2005)

great topic, i just sarted polishing my trim. im using a buffer from harbor freight cost 40$ works good
i got a 85 caprice alot of trim and a 51 chevy 

i heard alot of people say that drain cleaner stuff works good


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

singlegate said:


> great topic, i just sarted polishing my trim. im using a buffer from harbor freight cost 40$ works good
> i got a 85 caprice alot of trim and a 51 chevy
> 
> i heard alot of people say that drain cleaner stuff works good


yeah it works good


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## henry36 (Sep 4, 2009)

KAKALAK said:


> I let my pieces sit with oven cleaner then took 1000 grit to remove the white look. Then went up to 1500. Wet sanded with both grits. Then took a sisal wheel and Emory and polished it. Then took the cotton buff with white clay and finished polishing them


Alright, bro. Thanks for the advice. Gonna give it a try.


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

Wat if u get oven cleaner on paint??


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

I did whole sanding process not exact like this thread but still went through all grits n still see sand scratches


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## lkojoe (Feb 6, 2008)

Big Rich said:


> all you need to do is sand with 220 and then buff with red compound then hit it with green compound,,they sell the bars on ebay or i got em too :biggrin: or i can chrome em for you


 Does this method work for stainless or aluminum?


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

grease lightning works also for removing the anadized coating


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## lkojoe (Feb 6, 2008)

what am I doing wrong......:dunno:


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## BOSS VIC (Mar 5, 2011)

Well, came back to read this great topic. Now time to; Sand, smoke, beer, and polish...
THX!


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## lkojoe (Feb 6, 2008)

This looks to hazy what am I doing wrong


lkojoe said:


> what am I doing wrong......:dunno:
> 
> 
> View attachment 700937


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## europass (Dec 7, 2012)

Ok so zoop isnt in business anymore. Where can i get some?


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## sickthree (Apr 4, 2004)




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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

:nicoderm:


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

Use proper anodize stripper and straight to buffer brown compound for aluminum, clean part. White compound on loose wheel,,,,,,,grey compound on stainless. Sanding alum w fine grit is waste of time the brown rouge will do it for u


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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

I have been using 220, 320, 600 , 800 then 1000!! Polish on wheel with black rouge then white rouge!! I have tried the Hair and Grease remover but it ate thru some of my smaller parts!!  :nicoderm:


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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

:nicoderm:


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

Where u get that from? That's a lot of steps. Black is for regular steel. Gray is stainless brown is alum and green is kind of universal. White is for final buff on loose wheel for stainless or alum. This is just my method. On stuff that isn't scratched like example impal headliner trim u just strip Anodize. Brown compound and then white and done. I did this last week for a guy. This piece had deep gouges. I started with 36 grit then 60 80 180 220 400 600 800 1000 1500 2000 then brown buff then white loose buff it took me like 2 hours start to finish



























Aluminum will never be chrome but it gets shiney. Also the blue shop towels are worth buying they don't scratch the finish when you are done. Don't use old socks or rags


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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

It was from a store that sales compound. Ive been using the black then white. Been having some good results. Ill post some pics. :nicoderm:


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## 817.TX. (Sep 7, 2007)

Straight to the buffer with black rouge then white rouge!! 










All the steps above 180, 220, 320, 600, 800, 1000 Black rouge then white rouge!!










Not Show chrome!! But I like it!! :nicoderm:


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

I just did some aluminum interior trims yesterday using 100% lye granules. It Stripped the anodize off in 30 minutes and left almost an almost smooth finish since the anodize peel was what looked bad. 

Before


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

With stainless trim, I sanded to 1500 grit and did a quick hand polish with mothers and I'm getting these spots that look similar to anodized coating. Everything else is coming out like a mirror. Should I sand again or wait until I've got a new bench polisher and hit it with the compound?

Also looking for a bad ass dollie for knocking out dents. I've been able to fix all trims so far but i feel like there's got to be an easy way or better dollie for banging them out.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

That piece is alum not stainless. Only thing g stainless are roof rails. Front rear window trim and pillar trim. And gas door gaurd


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

lone star said:


> That piece is alum not stainless. Only thing g stainless are roof rails. Front rear window trim and pillar trim. And gas door gaurd


Damn, good info. When I started on that piece i soaked it in lye and had no results so i figured it was stainless. I didnt see the spots until i hit it with 1000 and 1500 grit. Going to hit the spots with 220,320,400,600,.....again today.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

Yep. Stainless never reacts to anything. Just scratches.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

I've noticed OEM aluminum trim Anodize coat is a lot thicker than repop. Takes a couple tries to strip it


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## henry36 (Sep 4, 2009)

Just my experience. Soak over night in a degreaser. Anodizing will dissolve. Then polish as instructions say. Spend extra time rubbing and the Polish will shine like new. The more time you spend the better the shine.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

Here are those 1st pieces i polished with a $40 polisher from harbor freight. I've done a dozen more pieces with it and working on making another polisher out of a baldor motor i got my hands on. 

I had taken out a few small dings and the pitting.


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## henry36 (Sep 4, 2009)

cashmoneyspeed said:


> Here are those 1st pieces i polished with a $40 polisher from harbor freight. I've done a dozen more pieces with it and working on making another polisher out of a baldor motor i got my hands on.
> 
> I had taken out a few small dings and the pitting.


Nice work bro! Looks profesional. What were your sanding steps.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

henry36 said:


> Nice work bro! Looks profesional. What were your sanding steps.


220,320,400,600,1000,1500 at first. Now sometimes ill finish with 800 or 1000 and go to the polisher.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

dope


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

TTT


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## 81.7.TX. (Apr 21, 2008)

BUMPSKI!! :nicoderm:


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

has anyone done the trim on a 96 caddy? is it anodized or is it chromed? how do I test it? window trim I got new spears


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