# 1964 And Earlier Impala Air Suspension Guide!



## NFA Fabrication

First off, lets consider this a rough draft! I want this thread to become the go to source that the other X-Frame thread should have been. The overall idea was great, but there are 7 pages so far of many unanswered ?'s, and unorganized answers littered throughout the thread. The goal here is to update the original post with the most important info, suppliers, parts needed, links, part numbers, etc.. I am currently planning the air suspension on my 2-Door '64 Impala, and I want this thread to become what I had hoped to find during my searching, that I was never able to find. As this thread takes off, all the info I gather, will be organized into this original post, and what I put in it will also be molded by your feedback and input...The car that is inspiring me to make this thread:











*-Front Suspension-*

The front X-Frame Impala suspension needs little modification to be converted to air. The main thing that you will have to decide is if you want to run shocks or not. Many people do not, but I will, and will be documenting what additional stuff is needed to add shocks to the front. This is only a concern on the front as the factory shocks run through the factory springs, leaving no place for the shock to go once the bag is installed. This is not as big of a procedure to relocate the shocks as you might expect, and can be done for under $100 complete (Assuming you are doing the work yourself of course).

_-Front Shock Relocation-_

I have already done this portion of my conversion, and it was very simple. I purchased the $39 kit from www.BCFabrication.com. From my research, I have found that the specs of the Monroe Shocks with part number #32267 seem to be right inline with the measurements I took from my installed kit. I will be buying these shocks, and will update with how well the fitment was. Some vendors are selling rebadged shocks that are nothing more than a basic Monroe shock or similar, but are often carrying a price tag in upwards of $100, when you can get them for $50. The brackets have a locating hole that matches a hole in the frame, so it is hard to mess up. You can actually use the lower shock stud from the kit as a centering tool as it is the same diameter as the hole! Minor trimming of the inner fender well is required with this style kit. I added a few small welds to the installed bracket because I don't fully trust the tapped holes (Not much thickness there for tapping strong threads, and the welds are small enough, that they could easily be ground off in the future.

Here is a pic of the bracket kit:


58-64 Chev Impala Front Shock Relocator Kit-FB510S

Here is a pic of my installed brackets:



The lower part of the kit simply involves drilling a hole on the back of the A-Arm, and then bolting on the shock stud. I will post these measurements when I get my shocks installed and drill these holes.

*EDIT: These shock relocation brackets turned out to be junk! They are simply way to thin, and flex back and forth about an inch in both direction as the suspension is pushed down when view from the engine bay! I will be coming up with a revised plan here soon. I would avoid these!*

_-Front Air-Bag Brackets-_

These are commonly found in the price range for $90-$130. This set from Airassisted.com seams very reasonably priced at $100. The only way I have seen them cheaper is to go through Ebay, and I'll definitely pay the extra $10 to get them from a reputable company! Front kits typically look like this:

_-Front Air-Bags-_

A 2600# bag is most commonly used for the front. It is recommended that you always use a good quality bag. I am definitely suggesting the use of something from "Slam Specialties" here. I am currently planning on using the SS series (7" SS).
*Slam Specialties*. I will post a link to a good vendor for these once I find one. I have looked at sponsors here, but website issues have made it difficult to find a solid link. Expect to pay $75 per bag for these. These are known for not ballooning (Expanding side to side with pressure) which is important for the front because it will limit the amount of trimming you will have to do to the front spring pocket to keep the bag from rubbing.

*-Rear Suspension-*

The rear suspension is a little simpler. You do not need to relocate the shocks because they do not run through the springs like the front. You simply need the bags you are going to use, and a bracket kit.

-Rear Air-Bag Brackets-

These are also commonly found in the price range for $90-$130. As above, I will be posting the link to Airassisted.com, as the rear kit is also $100. Rear kits typically look like this:



_-Rear Air-Bags-_

I am also suggesting using "Slam Specialties" SS-7's for the rear. Many people run the 2500# style bags in the rear, as you don't need to lift the weight that you do in the front (Engine weight obviously). But this will limit your up travel. The only benefit I see to the 2500# is that it will require less air volume, and have a slightly faster fill rate. This could be beneficial if you have a really small compressor.

_-Rear Shocks-_

Theoretically, the rear shocks can remain stock, as they do not interfere with the bag install, but I will post more if I find a shock that works better if the stockers do not meet reasonable travel needs.

-Y-Bone-

The rear suspension of the X-frame Impalas suffer from a pretty poor design. It is sufficient for stock suspension/passenger car use, but when coupled with an adjustable height suspension whether it be airbags or hydraulics, it suffers from one major setback, the Panhard bar. By design, it pulls the rear axle to the driver's side as the vehicle raises, and that added to the extreme travel of airbags/hydraulics, makes for very drastic side-to-side travel of the rear axle.

Ideally, you would convert to a Triangulated 4-Link with the longest links you could fit. For most, this is an unrealistic project as it would be fairly expensive to have done, and takes a good amount of design, and fabrication skill to take on and do it on your own. Luckily, there is a very simple mod out there that solves about 90% of the rear suspension design issues, and for most, is simply the most logical route to take when adding hydraulics/airbags to their X-frame Impala.

This is where the "Y-Bone" as the industry has dubbed it, comes into play. What this does is eliminate the ill effects of the Panhard rod, and then transfers the duty of side-to-side axle control to the upper link, by replacing the upper link with a modified version that is now mounted at the chassis at 2 points instead of one, giving it the ability to control the side to side movement of the axle instead of the Panhard rod, while keeping the axle centered during up/down travel.

There are 2 different designs I have seen floating around, Avoid ones that look like this:











This design puts a side to side load on the drivers side chassis mounted bushing, that that style bushing is not meant to handle, and is prone to failing prematurely. The preferred design is fixed and transmits the forces to the bushings more logically. The only exception is really the axle mounted bushing, but unless you are putting silly side loads on the axle with track days or high speed cornering you should be just fine. The best "Y-Bone" I have seen with a respectable price comes from forum member "A&W". For $230 plus shipping (Raw, not chrome), you get the best "Y-Bone" design I have seen, at a very reasonable price!


His contact info is here: A&W

*-Air Management-*

_-Air Tank-_

Nothing too special about this, you pretty much just have to make sure you have enough ports to hook up what you need too, and it is highly advised that you get a DOT-approved tank (Especially for you guys running higher pressures!). If you are going to be doing a full FBSS set-up (As most will be), at least 7 ports are recommendable (4 for the individual bags, a pressure switch, compressor input, and a general output for air tools is always nice!). If you will be running more than one compressor, additional ports will be needed obviously.

_-Air Valves-_

A FBSS system will require 8 one-way valves. If you just want separate front and rear control, 4 one-way valves will suffice. I will post more on this as the thread develops. Your valve size will depend on your speed requirements.

_-Air Compressor-_

Word of advice, if this is your first Air-Ride install, get the biggest compressor you can afford, or run duals. I see too many new guys running one small compressor, and it can be very frustrating (I did it myself). I will personally be documenting the installation of an EDC (Engine Driven Compressor, in my case a converted Sanden A/C compressor) in this thread. It is more labor intensive, but offers more air than you can expect from an electric compressor, with less noise. Unless you have some fabrication skills or know someone who does, it is probably going to be much less of a headache to run an electric compressor(s).

_-Air lines-_

At a minimum, run DOT-approved plastic airline, with all metal fittings. If you are looking for a bullet-proof system, it is highly suggested to run hydraulic lines. Your line size will depend on your speed requirements.


More to come! This is a rough start to this thread and will get refined with new research, info from you, etc. Thanks for stopping by!
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Notes:


Looking to add a link to a solid vendor for the "Y-Bone". If anyone has a good link, please let me know. I am trying to only post links to reputable vendors, so the links stay good, and continue to be a reliable source. I am trying to avoid things like "Jimbo on the forums makes 'em" for example.
Let me know if there is any other things that should really be in the original post. I made a basic outline, and have been adding info based on my research for my own project.
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*-Quick Product Links From Article-*


*Slam Specialties SS Bags - Airassisted.com - $75*
*Front Bag Brackets - Airassisted.com - $100*
*Rear Bag Brackets - Airassisted.com - $100*
*Front Shock relocation Kit - BCFab.com - $39*


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## Cluxford

Thanks NFA looks like this will be a really valuable thread. Is there any reason you couldn't run a shockwave on the fronts ?


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## NFA Fabrication

Cluxford said:


> Thanks NFA looks like this will be a really valuable thread. Is there any reason you couldn't run a shockwave on the fronts ?


I have seen it done, but they are very pricey, and from past experience on other cars, not quite as reliable as a well installed individual bag and shock. Plus using separate components gives you more options. I have only seen them run on Impala's with aftermarket lower control arms as well (Not to say the factory lower arm couldn't be modded of course). Shockwaves would probably be the best option if you did not want to drill a few holes in your frame (If I had a mint SS convertible, I'd probably consider it to avoid holes in the frame, lol!)


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## tmacracin

Great thread! This will be a great help on info for my 63. I plan to bag it in the next month depending on $$$$.

What are your plans on air control? Basic or a electronic setup like Ride Tech's E 3 ?


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## NFA Fabrication

tmacracin said:


> Great thread! This will be a great help on info for my 63. I plan to bag it in the next month depending on $$$$.
> 
> What are your plans on air control? Basic or a electronic setup like Ride Tech's E 3 ?


The plan is manual control, 1/2" Valves, hydraulic lines. EDC already mounted. And most likely will be 4 linking the rear. I was considering doing the Y-Bone, and that is probably the most cost effective route, but I have to do some surgery on the rear suspension anyway. My cross-member that the upper link attaches to was cracked at some point, and it looks like backyard Bob busted out a stick welder on it. I am thinking I am going to take out the original member all together and make one a little further forward with 4 link mounts.


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## sickthree

uffin: good thread


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## baggedout81

Good deal! I was thinking about doing up a "how to bag a g-body" thread couple years back.But got lazy.The front of these cars has been posted hundreds of times


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## ClassyMcNasty

Just a quick look, I found a couple of Y bones but one is pretty spendy and the other doesn't look too solid. If you guys know any better places to get one cheaper please let me know, cause the Y bone is the route I'm gonna go with but $450 is a lot of money. Also, there is a company called *Michigan Metal Works* that does some pretty badass control arms and drop spindles for mini trucks, they said they have complete front and back kits for the impalas but I didn't get a chance to get a price. They don't have the impala stuff on the website but I talk to the guy briefly and he said they make them.


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## baggedout81

Get ahold of Rich here.Hes good people,straight up cat.always done me good Unlimited Hustle


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## goinlow

ClassyMcNasty said:


> Just a quick look, I found a couple Y bones but one is pretty spendy and the other doesnt look to solid. If you guys know any better places to get one cheaper please let me know, cause they Y bone is the route im gonna go with but $450 is a lot of money. Also there is a company called http://michiganmetalworks.com/ that does some pretty badass control arms and drop spindals for mini trucks, they said they have complete front and back kits for the impalas but I didnt get a chance to get a price. They dont have the impala stuff on the website but I talk to the guy briefly and he said they make them.
> 
> http://www.redshydros.com/ybone001.html
> 
> http://www.ryderzhydros.com/ryderz-ybone.html



Hit up A&W , he has a topic in the parts for sale section.... Picked up A chrome Y bar cheap... Good quality chrome and all parts needed for the install...


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## ClassyMcNasty

goinlow said:


> Hit up A&W , he has a topic in the parts for sale section.... Picked up A chrome Y bar cheap... Good quality chrome and all parts needed for the install...


Took a minute but I found him lol, yeah I think I am def gonna go with him for my Y bone, they look good and the price looks good to me too lol


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## ABRAXASS

goinlow said:


> Hit up A&W , he has a topic in the parts for sale section.... Picked up A chrome Y bar cheap... Good quality chrome and all parts needed for the install...


Got mine through A&W. He's easy to work with and the piece is very nice.


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## tmacracin

What's your guys thoughts on Air Ride Tech's E3 Air Pod setup? A buddy of mine bought the 3 gallon Air Pod but didn't end up bagging his car so he wants to sell it cheap. I was thinking of buying it and then buy bags,brackets ,and shocks from Boris at Street Machinery in Ohio. Would another comp and 3 gallon tank be worthwhile?


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## ClassyMcNasty

I personally do not care for them, I would get a Accuair set up if you wanna do that kind of set up. I would also do at the very least a 5 gallon tank and 2 compressors. I have 2 five gallon tanks on my S10 and I am gonna do the same in my impala.


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## tmacracin

What don't you like about the E3's ? I'm not sure if I want to loose that much truck room to go with two 5 gallon tanks.


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## ClassyMcNasty

Just personal preference, I dont like the bulky digital switch box, im OCD and if the corners werent at the same number id go nuts lol, plus its a package deal so you get what they have, the compressor is a little cheap. I like Viair or Air Zenith and 2 compressors or an EDC is the way to go. 3 gallons really isnt much air at all, you lift the vehicle and you are out of air, gotta fill the tank, leaves no room to play. There are tons of options for tanks, they make all kinds of shapes and sized. I run 2 aluminum skinny 5s on my truck. They have short pancake ones if you wanna put it where the spare goes. lol


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## tmacracin

I checked out Accuair and there setup looks good. Any of you guys run them?


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## baggedout81

tmacracin said:


> I checked out Accuair and there setup looks good. Any of you guys run them?


Theres allot of mini truck guys running there stuff an they life it.I have a buddy thats running there product on a corvete an he loves it


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## NFA Fabrication

ClassyMcNasty said:


> Just personal preference, I dont like the bulky digital switch box, im OCD and if the corners werent at the same number id go nuts lol


I'm right there with ya! I am most likely going to be doing a 12 valve system. There with be separate regulated lift valves (Different regulator front and rear) that will be set up to a single button to set the vehicle "Ride Height". The two regulators can be adjusted to set the front and rear ride height. The other 8 will be conventional manual controls.


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## ClassyMcNasty

My impala im gonna run accuair valve block, but on my sonoma I am running 8 half inch SMC valves, with an AVS billet 7 switch box. 3 air gauges, one single needle for tank and 2 dual needle for each corner, but I only use the tank one, I adjust my ride hieght by feel or by what road im on lol.


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## baggedout81

NFA Fabrication said:


> I'm right there with ya! I am most likely going to be doing a 12 valve system. There with be separate regulated lift valves (Different regulator front and rear) that will be set up to a single button to set the vehicle "Ride Height". The two regulators can be adjusted to set the front and rear ride height. The other 8 will be conventional manual controls.


GC Valve makes a 2 port valve.1 port for a faster valve 1 port for a slower valve


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## 3onthetree

Thanks for taking the time to do this.:thumbsup:


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## NFA Fabrication

baggedout81 said:


> GC Valve makes a 2 port valve.1 port for a faster valve 1 port for a slower valve


I've seen those, but they are pretty pricey. The plan is to run 12 of the same valve for ease of maintainence as well (Easier to keep spare parts), plus I think I can make the install look cleaner the way I have it planned. Here is the basic plan as of now:


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## baggedout81

I see what your wanting to do.Gonna be a little mopre expensive this way but to each there own.

Or another thing you could do is.Get ya a adjustable pressure switch run a small airalong with running a line up to where you can reach it.Then you could adjust at the fly.


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## ILLVILLE

Great thread. Ive got some air ride stuff for sale. If interested hit me up. The link is in my signature as well.

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/44-h...-ridetech-shockwaves-firestone-2600-bags.html


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## A&W

goinlow said:


> Hit up A&W , he has a topic in the parts for sale section.... Picked up A chrome Y bar cheap... Good quality chrome and all parts needed for the install...


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## NFA Fabrication

A&W said:


>


So, what do you ask for these, and are they offered in a non-chrome version? Do you regularly have them ready to ship? This is the style bar that I would like to link to in the original post. I have seen the other design with another joint connecting the drivers side leg to the main passenger side leg, and that I will not post a link to as it is a poor design from an engineering standpoint. It puts a side to side load on the drivers side bushing, and that is not how those bushings are intended to work, and will ultimately cause premature failure. I have been hesitant to post a link, because the ones I have found, have been in the $400+ range, and I think that is high considering the simplicity of the part.


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## S.E.R. 61 RAG

What do you think of the Ride tech ShockWave's pro's and con's thinking about getting them for my impala?


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## A&W

NFA Fabrication said:


> So, what do you ask for these, and are they offered in a non-chrome version? Do you regularly have them ready to ship? This is the style bar that I would like to link to in the original post. I have seen the other design with another joint connecting the drivers side leg to the main passenger side leg, and that I will not post a link to as it is a poor design from an engineering standpoint. It puts a side to side load on the drivers side bushing, and that is not how those bushings are intended to work, and will ultimately cause premature failure. I have been hesitant to post a link, because the ones I have found, have been in the $400+ range, and I think that is high considering the simplicity of the part.


$230 plus shipping raw

I try to keep them in stock


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## ClassyMcNasty

A&W said:


> $230 plus shipping raw
> 
> I try to keep them in stock


Looks good to me, better price and design then all the ones I have found, will be ordering one in the next month or so from you A&W]


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## ClassyMcNasty

What else do you offer for bagging 64 impalas??


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## NFA Fabrication

A&W said:


>


You have been put as the go-to for this in my initial post as I feel this is the best price/design from what I have seen available.


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## A&W

ClassyMcNasty said:


> What else do you offer for bagging 64 impalas??


thats all I offer for now, pm me when you ready for the ybone :thumbsup:


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## Emailad4me773

good shiznit homie


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## fLaCo64SS

Very interested in how you will set this up. I also want the convenience of one button push to ride height. I like your write up so far; detailed and informative.


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## 58 Del-pala

S.E.R. 61 RAG said:


> What do you think of the Ride tech ShockWave's pro's and con's thinking about getting them for my impala?


Shockwaves are designed for very occasional use and not very heavy duty. I know many people who have had failures of all sorts with those. Mostly the internal shock breaks, bag tears, or the shock mounts break off the shocks at the top. Even when you run their lower A Arms the amount of movement in the front suspension of a 58-64 GM car (caddy, chevy, olds, etc) is too much for them to handle over time. If you are going to bag a 58-64 car then go with the standard bags and save money plus have a better setup.


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## 58 Del-pala

fLaCo64SS said:


> Very interested in how you will set this up. I also want the convenience of one button push to ride height. I like your write up so far; detailed and informative.


You can do that with a standard 8 valve setup as well by wiring all 4 fill valves to one switch. I dont usually recommend this because when you start putting 90 degree bends and stuff like that into a system it slows the air down so sometimes you will have 4 different pressures on 4 different bags. It might only be 5-10 PSI but when you ride at 40 and one wheel is 50 it means a few inches difference on height and stiffness. Doing front and rear on 2 switches is the ideal way to get quick ride height with bags.


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## ShakeRoks

I'm looking at these two kits. What do you think? I'm feeling the pricing more than anything. I know that's not always best but sometimes that's how it has too be! I would be putting this on my 1959 Impala...someday! 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Suspens...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a1e6ea58a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLT-Air-Su...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a1f3e5d13


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## Big Mike 805

Does anyone have pic's of installed Y-Bone?
Help!


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## A&W

Big Mike 805 said:


> Does anyone have pic's of installed Y-Bone?
> Help!


There are some on the other x frame topic


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## goinlow

A&W said:


>



:thumbsup::thumbsup: I didn`t forget about you homie ! The owner ran out of money on the build so its off till next summer.... Once that Y bar is in I`ll post some pics !!!


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## NFA Fabrication

Big Mike 805 said:


> Does anyone have pic's of installed Y-Bone?
> Help!


Do you have question about how one is installed? It basically just installs in place of the upper link, with an added arm that goes to the drivers side of the chassis crossmember, and then bolts to the included bracket which is added to your crossmember (It looks just like the factory one on the passenger side. The the side to side, panhard bar is removed.


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## motecarlosean

:thumbsup:


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## yuma64

goinlow said:


> :thumbsup::thumbsup: I didn`t forget about you homie ! The owner ran out of money on the build so its off till next summer.... Once that Y bar is in I`ll post some pics !!!


 Will this clear a Ford 9" swap?


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## shavedmax

any feed back from someone who's had air in their car? my frame's amost ready for paint and i want to make any nesc mods now before having to repaint it.


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## motecarlosean

post some pics of what you have done..........................


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

baggedout81 said:


> I see what your wanting to do.Gonna be a little mopre expensive this way but to each there own.
> 
> Or another thing you could do is.*Get ya a adjustable pressure switch *run a small airalong with running a line up to where you can reach it.Then you could adjust at the fly.


that's what I was using to speed my lift up and ran the bottle for speed.


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

Also great topic :thumbsup:


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## A&W

One of my ybones on a customers ride


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## fLaCo64SS

As far as having one button push to ride height, has anyone used ride height sensors? Air pressure sensors will give different height with passengers in the car.


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## Simplicity

fLaCo64SS said:


> As far as having one button push to ride height, has anyone used ride height sensors? Air pressure sensors will give different height with passengers in the car.


 We have done many installs with height based systems like Ride Tech's E3, and Accuairs system. They are both very nice to work with. Accuracy is almost perfect, with in 16th of an inch.


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## Toner283

Great thread. This is exactly the kind of info I have been looking for while I am doing the research on what I need to bag my 59 Elky. Looking forward to more updates.


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## MOFOA

NFAB: Thanks for sharing/logging your work. Looking forward to seeing pics of the shocks mounted. I've always wanted to do this on my ride, and NOW I can see how it is possible.


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## lgbnaf7

*Y-Bone*

Do I still need to keep the sway bar if I am doing the Y-Bone? If I am doing just air ride do I need to extend my soft brake line to the rear end also?


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

lgbnaf7 said:


> Do I still need to keep the sway bar if I am doing the Y-Bone? If I am doing just air ride* do I need to extend my soft brake line to the rear end also*?


with bags no


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

don't see a sway bar in the posted pics?


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## NFA Fabrication

Well, it seems Airassisted no longer has the rear bag brackets on their site. Their website is a nightmare to navigate, so it could be a site issue. I am trying to order brackets today, and will post new links in the original post to a better vendor after I find one I like.

*Edit: I spoke with them today, It seems they are in the middle of a website makeover, which makes sense as to why I was having website difficulties. They still appear to have the best deal on very well built looking brackets from what I have seen. I will be ordering them in the next day ot two, and will post pics when they arrive, and then after install!*


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## Miagi63

Anyone know any places to install airbags close to Fort Pierce Florida? Its for my 63 impala


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## NFA Fabrication

lgbnaf7 said:


> Do I still need to keep the sway bar if I am doing the Y-Bone? If I am doing just air ride do I need to extend my soft brake line to the rear end also?


By sway bay, are you talking about the panhard rod by any chance? If so, no, that goes away. I prefer to run with out sway bars on air bagged cars, I like to be able to have free side to side play without binding.

I ordered the front and rear brackets and Slam Specialties SS-7's all around today. Worked with Kevin at AirAssisted.com. Great guy, and cant wait to see the parts in person! I am a fabricator at heart, and was very impressed with the welds I have seen on the pictures of the production brackets. I will of course add pictures as soon as I get them to keep the thread as informed as possible! It was great to see this thread get a mention in the monthly newsletter!


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## A&W

NFA Fabrication said:


> By sway bay, are you talking about the panhard rod by any chance? If so, no, that goes away. I prefer to run with out sway bars on air bagged cars, I like to be able to have free side to side play without binding.
> 
> I ordered the front and rear brackets and Slam Specialties SS-7's all around today. Worked with Kevin at AirAssisted.com. Great guy, and cant wait to see the parts in person! I am a fabricator at heart, and was very impressed with the welds I have seen on the pictures of the production brackets. I will of course add pictures as soon as I get them to keep the thread as informed as possible! It was great to see this thread get a mention in the monthly newsletter!


There's a monthly newsletter?


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## pimpala62

Any edc stuff yet. I need to mount a york to a 283


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## NFA Fabrication

A&W said:


> There's a monthly newsletter?


Nothing fancy, it's an email thing, but it shows the highlights from the forum monthly. You may have opted out of it.


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## NFA Fabrication

pimpala62 said:


> Any edc stuff yet. I need to mount a york to a 283



I am doing and EDC with a Sanden in this thread, But I would talk to "baggedout81", he is much more educated on the topic of EDC's.


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## pimpala62

Ight cool


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## Cali4Life916

Great forum!! Just bagged my 62 and looking at buying a Y bone. A&W looks like it might have a nice one, will be checking it out!!


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## NFA Fabrication

Cali4Life916 said:


> Great forum!! Just bagged my 62 and looking at buying a Y bone. A&W looks like it might have a nice one, will be checking it out!!


I looked around quite a bit while putting together this thread, I think You will be hard pressed to find a better Y-Bone/Deal anywhere. I should be adding a lot more pics to this thread very soon, I had quite a setback on the project due to having to move, but have gotten settled in, and getting back to stable after a bunch of moving expenses, but am getting back on track fast now.

I chose and ordered a Viair 480C as my back-up compressor (And with a switch option to use it in tandem with my EDC for very fast fill rates!), and should have all my airline, fittings, bags, and brackets here on Monday. I want reasonably fast, but not crazy fast, so I think I have decided to go with 8 individual Asco 3/8" valves. And will most likely be ordering a 5 gallon tank tomorrow. I was considering going huge with the air tank, but I don't think I will be playing excessively, so a 5 gallon should be fine, and with an EDC and the Viair 450C, I should be able to play a bit. In less than a month, I should have the system complete, and have the thread fully updated with pics, and my general opinion of how the project came out, does it perform as expected, etc...


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## Tugmaster

Great thread!! Subscribed!


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## NFA Fabrication

Some good news and some bad news for the build. Bags and Brackets showed up today and they look great. The bad news is that my air fitting/line order will not be here in time for the shop time I have set aside on Saturday. Just checked the tracking, and it wan't be here till Monday. So I had to do what I didn't want to do, and go to Lowes and grab the cheap plastic fittings so I can at least get it operational. It's easy for me to get a few hours on the lift at the shop, but I have the whole day Saturday, so I guess I just have to pull the top cups out in a few weeks and change the fittings. Not the way I wanted to do it, but as with any project it seems that no matter how much planning you do, something always messes up the plan. Here are the Bags/Brackets (SS-7's all around, and Airassisted.com's Brackets):


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## Tugmaster

Are you going to upgrade to a Inland Empire telescoping driveshaft and support bearing?


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## NFA Fabrication

Tugmaster said:


> Are you going to upgrade to a Inland Empire telescoping driveshaft and support bearing?


Haven't gotten that far yet. I will see what driveline issues I have if any, once the bags are installed Saturday. Here is a good question for someone that has installed these style bag brackets, on the front lowers, what is the notch for on the bracket at the ball joint end? I am assuming it will make itself obvious once I get in there and start bolting it in, but in the meantime, it is driving me nuts! lol!


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## NFA Fabrication

Well, ran into another headache. I followed the directions from Slam Specialties on the recommended bolts to mount the bags (3/8NC [3/8-16] grade 5 or better) extending between 5/8" x 7/8" into the bag. I purchased 3/8-16 x 1 grade 8 bolts from Lowes, and after threading them in snug (3-5 ft-lbs) in the brackets just to see the assembled bags/brackets, and left for a few days, I pulled them out to paint the brackets. Several of the bolts came out tough, and 2 of them completely mangled the aluminum threads inside the brand new bags. Needless to say, I am not pleased, I followed every direction to a "T". 

I am assuming I got a bad batch of bags, and have sent an email to Slam Specialties, and am hoping for a positive response. I have a feeling this is going to be a huge set-back and will delay thread updates. In an ideal world, I would have new bags before the first of Dec. so I can use that Saturday to get a ton of work done. On a good note, I will have my good fittings by then and will be able to avoid doing the temporary install with the plastic fittings.

Edit, here is one one of the bolts I pulled out:


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## Winmon

Very informative thread! Thanks for taking the time to it.. I just bought a bagged '62 Bel Air (bought it from Boris in Ohio) and am just trying to learn how the air set ups work etc..Even though I have a system already in place, just like to know how they work or if any improvements can be made. Already learned I may need to buy the "Y" Bone. Sorry to hear of the recent set back. Ah, the joys of building/working on cars huh?  

I do have one question. I currently have 1 Viair 380c w/ a 5 gal. tank. If I added a 2nd 380c to the set up, it will give me quicker refill rates correct?


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## bagsan22s

Winmon said:


> Very informative thread! Thanks for taking the time to it.. I just bought a bagged '62 Bel Air (bought it from Boris in Ohio) and am just trying to learn how the air set ups work etc..Even though I have a system already in place, just like to know how they work or if any improvements can be made. Already learned I may need to buy the "Y" Bone. Sorry to hear of the recent set back. Ah, the joys of building/working on cars huh?
> 
> I do have one question. I currently have 1 Viair 380c w/ a 5 gal. tank. If I added a 2nd 380c to the set up, it will give me quicker refill rates correct?


Yes if you kept the single tank and added a second compressor it would cut your fill time in about half.


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## Winmon

Thanks!


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## NFA Fabrication

Winmon said:


> I do have one question. I currently have 1 Viair 380c w/ a 5 gal. tank. If I added a 2nd 380c to the set up, it will give me quicker refill rates correct?


I just ordered the dual pack of Viair 480C's from Airassisted.com for $406 shipped. You can save quite a bit when ordering 2 compressors as a package, might make it worthwhile to upgrade!


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## NFA Fabrication

Got the bags installed! The couple of threads that were damaged in the SS7 bags were Heli-coiled, and worked out great! The rest of the threads were chased with a Snap-on 3/8-16 thread chaser (Not a tap!), and now worked fine. I also sused anti-seize in every bolt. I have it on manual schrader fill valves for now. I should have the tank, valves, and electric compressor hooked up in about 2 weeks (Then I need to get an oiler/filter set-up yo hook up my EDC that is already mounted). Install went mostly as planned, but had a couple issues. My dual exhaust was running in the area that part of the bag occupies, so I had to cut my exhaust off before the axle. I will dig into that later, I still have my mufflers, so it isn't that much louder.

One thing that made me really happy is that there wasn't even close to being a need to trim the front upper spring pockets, the SS-7 bag has easily a full inch or more when fully inflated of clearance around. The front brackets went in fairly strait forward, and found it best to leave the top nut loose until the lower plate is fully bolted in (With the bag fully torqued to the upper and lower mounts of course). I tried to tighten it first initially, but it put a hint of twist in the bag, doing it as i mentioned above eliminated that issue.

The rear brackets are fairly easy as well. Remove the factory bump stops (They slide out of their slot), and the slot that they fit in is now the hole that the tab on the rear upper brackets bolts to. The stud for the rear bracket goes through a hole that you will need to drill. Just drill a hole in the center of the spring pocket (there is a bump that keeps the spring centered, just drill in the middle of it with a bit the size of your stud). The only wrench I found that worked great for tightening the stud nut was an off-set 16mm (5/8") to get over the frame edge, don't see how it could be done without it, so plan on having one handy! On the lower bracket for the rear, it is simply mounted with the bolt that holds the E-brake cable in place and the ring on it sits inside the factory lower spring pocket, the bolt is just barely long enough, so I upgraded the plan here, and drilled out the threads in the control arm, and used a bolt, 2 washers and a nylock nut through the bracket and arm. I didn't want to use the E-brake bolt, that is fine for holding a cable, but not suitable for suspension components in my opinion. 

I will get a ton of pics when I go back in to do the airlines/tank/valves, but here is how she sits as of now (In every picture, either end is either at full lock up, or fully aired out).


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## sickthree

Nice, looks real good !!!!!


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## joker78148

Looks really good. I like the amount of travel your getting out of it. I've been following your build and got pointers from you for the set up I'm getting ready to do. Thanks for such a detailed write up.


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## ClassyMcNasty

Looking really good, cant wait to get mine started. are those 13s or 14s and what size and make of tires??


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## NFA Fabrication

ClassyMcNasty said:


> Looking really good, cant wait to get mine started. are those 13s or 14s and what size and make of tires??


Thanks! They are 14x7's and 175-70-14's. They are Hankook Milage II's" I think.


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## Cali4Life916

Here are a few pic of my build.


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## NFA Fabrication

Cali4Life916 said:


> Here are a few pic of my build.
> 
> View attachment 578084
> View attachment 578085
> View attachment 578086
> View attachment 578087


Always smile when I see a '62! Where I live, I rarely get to see an Impala period, and I virtually never get to see a '62. Nice rig man!


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## yuma64

shavedmax said:


> any feed back from someone who's had air in their car? my frame's amost ready for paint and i want to make any nesc mods now before having to repaint it.


 If u r going to use a front shock relocation kit it has a weld in piece.


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## baggedout81

NFA Fabrication said:


> Always smile when I see a '62! Where I live, I rarely get to see an Impala period, and I virtually never get to see a '62. Nice rig man!


If your running a York for a EDC you wont need a oiler.Just a trap after the "O" or Out-take.An make sure the trap can handle the PSI an the heat.Them yorks can get really hot if ran allot of run at higher psi.An run hydro line from the EDC back to tank,trust me.You dont want that plastic line


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## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> If u r going to use a front shock relocation kit it has a weld in piece.


The kit I got was a bolt in, I made a few small welds for peace of mind, bit it sells as a 100% bolt in kit.


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## yuma64

Can u post some pics cause the one I got has a weld in piece. And anyone else w pics Please post them. Thanks


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## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> Can u post some pics cause the one I got has a weld in piece. And anyone else w pics Please post them. Thanks


First post of this thread has all of the pics of the parts that are being used in this build. I have it pictured installed as well.


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## krisFATAL

i just put a sweet carrier bearing in from CPP my buddies hooked me up with, but when my best friend (who owns a 4 wheel drive shop) pressed in my U joints he promises i need a slip joint to keep it from binding. I haven't bagged this one yet..anyone run into that issue?


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## yuma64

NFA Fabrication said:


> First post of this thread has all of the pics of the parts that are being used in this build. I have it pictured installed as well.


 Oh yes I did see that picture, but it's hard to see on my phone, a little dark. It is located behind the front arm? And the bottom you drill a hole in the arm. How is the geometry on the mounts? Does it cycle thru without binding up the shock? My kit is from cce and has a weld in piece for the top and bolt in (u shape bracket for the bottom. Mine will bind the shock the way it's designed. If u have pics back away a little and of the bottom would be helpful. I might go with what u have.


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## yuma64

Also I'm running s/s hard lines. Anyone have pics how they tied on to the bags? Front in particular.


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## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> Oh yes I did see that picture, but it's hard to see on my phone, a little dark. It is located behind the front arm? And the bottom you drill a hole in the arm. How is the geometry on the mounts? Does it cycle thru without binding up the shock? My kit is from cce and has a weld in piece for the top and bolt in (u shape bracket for the bottom. Mine will bind the shock the way it's designed. If u have pics back away a little and of the bottom would be helpful. I might go with what u have.


The bottom simply has a shock stud, just drill the hole in the arm, and bolt it in. The upper mount is behind the control arm by about 6 inches or so. I'd love to see pics of what you have...


----------



## yuma64

NFA Fabrication said:


> The bottom simply has a shock stud, just drill the hole in the arm, and bolt it in. The upper mount is behind the control arm by about 6 inches or so. I'd love to see pics of what you have...


 I am assuming this bracket welds to top frame?


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## NFA Fabrication

It looks like you weld that part to the top of the frame, and then bolt that "C" piece onto the welded piece, and then just drill the arm for the stud. Not sure if I like that very much.


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## yuma64

Yeah, me either


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## NFA Fabrication

Once again I try to save a few dollars cutting a small corner, and end up with questionable product. I ordered a 5 gallon aluminum tank from Airbagit.com, and I simply got chinese junk. The welds look horrendous, but I could probably deal with that as long as they hold air (I have my doubts), but the mounting brackets are not even close to welded flat. There is no way there is a jig of any kind used to put these together. I am guessing this is an eye-balled assembly. It does not even come close to sitting flat on any table. I either have to send it back, or just cut and weld one of the corners of the four mounting welds. I will most likely just fix it, if I sent it back, and got another one just as bad in exchange (Which I probably would) I would end up being even more angry. 

Today's lesson: Avoid Airbagit.com, deal with airassisted.com or one of the other forum sponsors with a good reputation, This was a joke receiving this in the mail today, just insulting. I think the worst part is that there was no money saved in production to make it this way, there is no excuse for it. the welds I understand, money saved to make a reasonably priced product. This is how it sits on a flat table...

Edit: Not everyone will understand the importance of this, but if you bolt down a tank with pressure in it that does not bolt down in a relaxed position, you highly compromise the integrity of the tank. As a long time fabricator, I have learned this, but what is a newcomer to do not knowing this, and bolting in a compromised pressure storage tank? I am sure many of you have seen the catastrophic results of exploded tanks...


----------



## Hydros

Simplicity said:


> We have done many installs with height based systems like Ride Tech's E3, and Accuairs system. They are both very nice to work with. Accuracy is almost perfect, with in 16th of an inch.


You have a link? I'd like to learn more about this.


----------



## Hydros

Cali4Life916 said:


> Here are a few pic of my build.
> 
> View attachment 578084
> View attachment 578085
> View attachment 578086
> View attachment 578087


Cali, I am a newbie to bags, on the image with the spindle, Is the bag pretty much just tucked into place and when fully charged it produces a higher ride height? What I am getting at, it appears there is no room for any coil spring unless you used a shorter bag?
and
riding on air bags, is it like a soft gliding ride? I mean, without shocks a car with hydraulics it can be extremely unstable. But how is the ride without shocks on air bags?


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

NFA Fabrication said:


> Once again I try to save a few dollars cutting a small corner, and end up with questionable product. I ordered a 5 gallon aluminum tank from *Airbagit.com, and I simply got chinese junk. *The welds look horrendous, but I could probably deal with that as long as they hold air (I have my doubts), but the mounting brackets are not even close to welded flat. There is no way there is a jig of any kind used to put these together. I am guessing this is an eye-balled assembly. It does not even come close to sitting flat on any table. I either have to send it back, or just cut and weld one of the corners of the four mounting welds. I will most likely just fix it, if I sent it back, and got another one just as bad in exchange (Which I probably would) I would end up being even more angry.
> 
> Today's lesson: Avoid Airbagit.com, deal with airassisted.com or one of the other forum sponsors with a good reputation, This was a joke receiving this in the mail today, just insulting. I think the worst part is that there was no money saved in production to make it this way, there is no excuse for it. the welds I understand, money saved to make a reasonably priced product. This is how it sits on a flat table...
> 
> Edit: Not everyone will understand the importance of this, but if you bolt down a tank with pressure in it that does not bolt down in a relaxed position, you highly compromise the integrity of the tank. As a long time fabricator, I have learned this, but what is a newcomer to do not knowing this, and bolting in a compromised pressure storage tank? I am sure many of you have seen the catastrophic results of exploded tanks...


:rimshot:


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## yuma64

Anyone have pics and routing hard lines to front bags on 64 Impala


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## NFA Fabrication

Hydros said:


> Cali, I am a newbie to bags, on the image with the spindle, Is the bag pretty much just tucked into place and when fully charged it produces a higher ride height? What I am getting at, it appears there is no room for any coil spring unless you used a shorter bag?
> and
> riding on air bags, is it like a soft gliding ride? I mean, without shocks a car with hydraulics it can be extremely unstable. But how is the ride without shocks on air bags?


You don't run these bags with any kind of a spring, it is a complete spring replacement. Mine rides like factory other than not having my front shocks on yet (Which I can't wait for!). I fully expect that it will ride as stock when put at a height close to stock. Mine rides great now, just a little floaty without shocks.


----------



## krisFATAL

NFA Fabrication said:


> Once again I try to save a few dollars cutting a small corner, and end up with questionable product. I ordered a 5 gallon aluminum tank from Airbagit.com, and I simply got chinese junk. The welds look horrendous, but I could probably deal with that as long as they hold air (I have my doubts), but the mounting brackets are not even close to welded flat. There is no way there is a jig of any kind used to put these together. I am guessing this is an eye-balled assembly. It does not even come close to sitting flat on any table. I either have to send it back, or just cut and weld one of the corners of the four mounting welds. I will most likely just fix it, if I sent it back, and got another one just as bad in exchange (Which I probably would) I would end up being even more angry.
> 
> Today's lesson: Avoid Airbagit.com, deal with airassisted.com or one of the other forum sponsors with a good reputation, This was a joke receiving this in the mail today, just insulting. I think the worst part is that there was no money saved in production to make it this way, there is no excuse for it. the welds I understand, money saved to make a reasonably priced product. This is how it sits on a flat table...
> 
> Edit: Not everyone will understand the importance of this, but if you bolt down a tank with pressure in it that does not bolt down in a relaxed position, you highly compromise the integrity of the tank. As a long time fabricator, I have learned this, but what is a newcomer to do not knowing this, and bolting in a compromised pressure storage tank? I am sure many of you have seen the catastrophic results of exploded tanks...


Dealt with them a few times. Im almost positive its the old AIM shop renamed. The dude that usually answers the phone is a prick, But i had to get 4 bags off them the other way and one out of the 4 leaked. it was a hassle but i had a credit with him so he shipped me out out. ive never heard of a brand new bag leaking from the seam.. you get what you pay for haha


----------



## 62_ShamrockSpecial

Tugmaster said:


> Are you going to upgrade to a Inland Empire telescoping driveshaft and support bearing?


Anymore info on this?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

A little bit of an update: The holidays have wreaked a little more havok on the finances than I originally assumed, so it will be probably 2-3 weeks until I order my 8 1/2 valves. I had some SMALL valves left over from another project, enough for front/back, up/down, so installed them, and an open/close manual valve in the front to shut off side to side air flow to the front two bags side to side to keep the ride level. It all works great on my 5 gal. tank and my 1 Viair 480C for now. The BIG improvement I made at the same time was adding shocks! The car now rides like it did in 100% stock form as long as it is at a reasonable ride height, very happy with the result. I am interested to start looking into front upper a-arm options and front ball joints. I'd like to drive closer to topped out in the front with less noise/metal to metal a-arm to frame contact.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Well, not very happy after looking at the shock mounts today. They are so flimsy that they move in/out as the suspension is compressed. I will be taking these out, and fabbing my own. I will also make them taller so I can run a shock with more travel as well. The shock I listed in the OP works great for this mount kit, but I want to run modded upper arms that will allow more lift (Lengthened, and with the ball joint dropped to allow the arm to clear the upper "Bump stop", and that will require more shock travel. 

I'd be very surprised if someone drove with these shock mounts on a daily driver for 3 months with no issues, the flexing is pretty considerable! Not very happy with them...


----------



## yuma64

The upper mount is flexing?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> The upper mount is flexing?


The new shock mounts for the relocation kit. This part:










It flexes towards the engine as the suspension is compressed and away from the engine as it rebounds. Good idea, fitment was good, but simply too thin, and could have had the brace go further down the frame. Not much testing was done on these I am guessing. The following pic shows the arrows where there is movement, and where the vertical brace could be lengthened, this combined with using 3/16 or 1/4" steel would make these mounts suitable.


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## 8t4mc

run a gusset on the back side across the frame ..that will take all the in n out movement out of the mount


----------



## thunderstomper

hey what's up everybody, i just registered to the site, (although i've been lurking on here for a few weeks). i'm in the process of restoring my '64, as well as bagging it. i've owned her for 14 years... she's been rotting away in the driveway for the last 5. i just got the original 283 back from the machine shop but before i drop it back in, i've got the front end torn apart, hooking it up with new bushings and fresh paint on all the suspension parts, frame, firewall, ect. i'm REALLY diggin all the info in this thread. i'll be installing the bags soon and running lines to the trunk with schrader valves for the time being while i concentrate on the rest of the resto/rebuild. i'm probably going to run Slam Specialties SS 7s up front. i've been a custom metal fabricator for 16 years and i'd really like to fab the brackets myself to save some money, but i haven't been able to find much info on bracket specs. Any thoughts on this?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

8t4mc said:


> run a gusset on the back side across the frame ..that will take all the in n out movement out of the mount


This would definitely fix the problem. My problem is that I am not willing to get that invasive on this car because you simply do not have to. A properly designed shock bracket would work fine as a bolt on (I am fine with adding a few tack welds to make it a little more reliable as I did with these brackets). I am restoring my car, and only making mods that could easily be undone in a day if I ever chose to sell in the future to someone who wanted a stock car. The rest of my restoration is following the same theme, "Stock or simply undoable mods only".


----------



## NFA Fabrication

thunderstomper said:


> hey what's up everybody, i just registered to the site, (although i've been lurking on here for a few weeks). i'm in the process of restoring my '64, as well as bagging it. i've owned her for 14 years... she's been rotting away in the driveway for the last 5. i just got the original 283 back from the machine shop but before i drop it back in, i've got the front end torn apart, hooking it up with new bushings and fresh paint on all the suspension parts, frame, firewall, ect. i'm REALLY diggin all the info in this thread. i'll be installing the bags soon and running lines to the trunk with schrader valves for the time being while i concentrate on the rest of the resto/rebuild. i'm probably going to run Slam Specialties SS 7s up front. i've been a custom metal fabricator for 16 years and i'd really like to fab the brackets myself to save some money, but i haven't been able to find much info on bracket specs. Any thoughts on this?


$200 for all brackets. You will spend 2/3 of that in metal to make your brackets. On no level are you going to make it worthwhile to make your own brackets, they are simply too readily available for this car to make that a worthwhile venture.


----------



## thunderstomper

NFA Fabrication said:


> $200 for all brackets. You will spend 2/3 of that in metal to make your brackets. On no level are you going to make it worthwhile to make your own brackets, they are simply too readily available for this car to make that a worthwhile venture.



just cause i'm new to the site, doesn't mean i'm new to the game  

i know about the brackets that are available, i even found them as low as $140 for all the brackets (http://www.bcfab.com/). the thing is, i have drops of all the steel parts that i would need at my shop, so the cost of materials isn't a factor... it's free. my time is the only thing i'm concerned with. if i had specs on the brackets, i could knock them out in a couple of hours, where as if i have to prototype and design them from scratch, then fabricating them myself become less cost effective and buying them online makes more sense.

i just found this: http://www.layitlow.com/forums/25-air-suspensions/249378-looking-1964-airbag-cup-bracket-dimensions.html . there's some info here, but it's definitely lacking some detail. it's a start though!


----------



## ClassyMcNasty

NFA Fabrication said:


> A little bit of an update: The holidays have wreaked a little more havok on the finances than I originally assumed, so it will be probably 2-3 weeks until I order my 8 1/2 valves. I had some SMALL valves left over from another project, enough for front/back, up/down, so installed them, and an open/close manual valve in the front to shut off side to side air flow to the front two bags side to side to keep the ride level. It all works great on my 5 gal. tank and my 1 Viair 480C for now. The BIG improvement I made at the same time was adding shocks! The car now rides like it did in 100% stock form as long as it is at a reasonable ride height, very happy with the result. I am interested to start looking into front upper a-arm options and front ball joints. I'd like to drive closer to topped out in the front with less noise/metal to metal a-arm to frame contact.


I think Michigan Metal Works makes uppers and lowers for this car, although they do not have them posted on their website Id almost guarantee they make them, and their arms that they make are really badass


----------



## Simplicity

I added Over 20 new Impala items to our site today! 
http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/Bolt-in-Air-Suspension/cars/chevy-gm/impala

Any one have any good images, of gauge solutions? I have to do a 64 with 3 gauges soon. Searching for ideas....

Patrick, I added Ridetech uppers to our site... Check it out. We have used many over the years.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Simplicity said:


> I added Over 20 new Impala items to our site today!
> http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/Bolt-in-Air-Suspension/cars/chevy-gm/impala
> 
> Any one have any good images, of gauge solutions? I have to do a 64 with 3 gauges soon. Searching for ideas....
> 
> Patrick, I added Ridetech uppers to our site... Check it out. We have used many over the years.


Nice, I'll check it out! I had an issue today, one I mentioned a few posts back that I knew was just a matter of time before it was going to happen...










I will be making my own shock mounts and probably going to a longer shock so that I can use modded upper arms that can drop more for more lift.


----------



## sobayduece

NFA Fabrication said:


> Nice, I'll check it out! I had an issue today, one I mentioned a few posts back that I knew was just a matter of time before it was going to happen...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be making my own shock mounts and probably going to a longer shock so that I can use modded upper arms that can drop more for more lift.


 Oh crap i have those same shock mounts looks like i need to add some metal to make them stronger:thumbsdown:


----------



## sickthree

Which shock did you use? Which shocks are you going yo use for more travel?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

sickthree said:


> Which shock did you use? Which shocks are you going yo use for more travel?


I used the ones I listed the part number for in my original post. You could top out or bottom out the suspension, and still slide the shock off the lower stud if the nut/washer were off, so I know it was not binding. It may be a stiffer shock that others people use perhaps? It rode great though! Either way, I had my concerns from the get go when I saw them in person. I will go back to the Monroe shock chart and find something with 2-3"'s more of travel with the same mounting specs that will allow me to go up more after my upper A-Arm mods, and a little lower after I either trim or remove my lower bump stops. I have not tried to see if the SS7's internal bump stop is active when dropped before I would get metal to metal contact without the factory bump stop.

I am currently daily driving the car, so I try not to plan too big of a project step that I can't do in a given Saturday (And Sunday if needed). I went in to the shop yesterday, and got my alarm installed, It's a Viper keyless entry, that I used one of the aux. outputs of to activate my own version of an alarm, I do a lot of electronics stuff and came up with my own version that is much more effective. I also set up a second auxiliary output to raise the car from the remote, so I can leave the car on the ground, and walk up to it and raise it before I get in. I am 6'6" ~270lbs, and look a little ridiculous crawling into a car on the ground, lol!


----------



## ClassyMcNasty

Im not sure if i missed this part, did you go with a Y bone or are you using the panhard?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

ClassyMcNasty said:


> Im not sure if i missed this part, did you go with a Y bone or are you using the panhard?


I'm still on the panhard. Mine will end up being a triangulated 4 link.


----------



## thunderstomper

i built my brackets over the weekend. it took some time to prototype, but i'm happy with how they came out. i didn't end up having the steel at my shop so i bought what i needed from a local supplier. the material was about $20 total. 

material








plasma cut 








lower plate








upper cup









i bolted the lower control arm on to the car and used a floor jack to cycle the bag... when fully compressed, i had about 3/4" all the way around the bag.

oh and a BIG thanks to NFA Fab, my Slam Specialties SS 7s had the exact same issue with the threads. i just barely started the bolts and noticed them getting snug, because of your post about the bad threads, i knew not to force it, so i chased the threads and now i can run the bolts all the way in easily, just with my fingers. good looking out!


----------



## NFA Fabrication

thunderstomper said:


> i built my brackets over the weekend. it took some time to prototype, but i'm happy with how they came out. i didn't end up having the steel at my shop so i bought what i needed from a local supplier. the material was about $20 total.
> 
> material
> View attachment 591878
> 
> 
> plasma cut
> View attachment 591880
> 
> 
> lower plate
> View attachment 591881
> 
> 
> upper cup
> View attachment 591882
> 
> 
> 
> i bolted the lower control arm on to the car and used a floor jack to cycle the bag... when fully compressed, i had about 3/4" all the way around the bag.
> 
> oh and a BIG thanks to NFA Fab, my Slam Specialties SS 7s had the exact same issue with the threads. i just barely started the bolts and noticed them getting snug, because of your post about the bad threads, i knew not to force it, so i chased the threads and now i can run the bolts all the way in easily, just with my fingers. good looking out!


Looks good! Yeah, we are going to see more and more of these SS bag issues. Luckily it is easy to remedy, as long as you catch the issue before fully running the bolts in! I could tell when I was talking to them on the phone that they thought I was some jackass that simply was using the wrong bolt.


----------



## thunderstomper

NFA Fabrication said:


> Looks good! Yeah, we are going to see more and more of these SS bag issues. Luckily it is easy to remedy, as long as you catch the issue before fully running the bolts in! I could tell when I was talking to them on the phone that they thought I was some jackass that simply was using the wrong bolt.


that's crazy man. ANYONE that understands how bolts are threaded into a tapped hole would know that those threads are fucked right from the start. i used a bottoming tap (VERY CAREFULLY), making sure not to cross thread and chased the existing threads. it worked perfectly. 

i'm installing my front control arms and bags tonight... and running the lines to the trunk. so stoked!!


----------



## sickthree

Simplicity said:


> I added Over 20 new Impala items to our site today!
> http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/Bolt-in-Air-Suspension/cars/chevy-gm/impala
> 
> Any one have any good images, of gauge solutions? I have to do a 64 with 3 gauges soon. Searching for ideas....
> 
> Patrick, I added Ridetech uppers to our site... Check it out. We have used many over the years.


Does the MUSCLEbar have any clearance issues with 500 series steering box?


----------



## yuma64

Nice work!!!!! Thunder ...


----------



## thunderstomper

yuma64 said:


> Nice work!!!!! Thunder ...


Thanks man! 

i just got done working on my ride tonight. i installed my upper & lower control arms, new ball joints, spindles, air bags and line. i threw a schrader valve on the lines and aired the front bags up to test them out. everything looks good. i didn't need to trim the spring pockets, no clearance issues with the bags at all.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

thunderstomper said:


> Thanks man!
> 
> i just got done working on my ride tonight. i installed my upper & lower control arms, new ball joints, spindles, air bags and line. i threw a schrader valve on the lines and aired the front bags up to test them out. everything looks good. i didn't need to trim the spring pockets, no clearance issues with the bags at all.


I had a ton of room around my bags, I was very excited about that! Let us know what you end up doing when it comes to shocks, I am no longer recommending the brackets that are offered everywhere for our cars (For obvious reasons!). I have already figured out my plan, but as I don't see a great off the shelf option, this is something people are going to want to see here. My car rode sooooo much better before those cheesy brackets broke! I will post up my new install soon as well.


----------



## Big nene 1

i have a complete air set up you're a Chevy, everything bolt on for $800 2 crome tanks,2 crime compressors, all switches & hoses


----------



## Simplicity

Looking for Gauge ideas to mount 3 analog gauges into a 64 Impala..... What has everyone come up with.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Simplicity said:


> Looking for Gauge ideas to mount 3 analog gauges into a 64 Impala..... What has everyone come up with.


Working on the same. I can't bring myself to modify the dash in anyway, so I am narrowed down to an under dash panel, or making a console of some kind. I also need to mount a stereo, and 4 switches as well. I have a spare SS center console, so I think I am gonna take parts from it, and incorporate it into a custom bench seat friendly console to help give it an appearance that isn't completely out of place.


----------



## bigk8824

mines mounted under the dash on the driver side left of the steering wheel column


----------



## 8fifty

Why wud u bag n x frame?


----------



## sickthree

8fifty said:


> Why wud u bag n x frame?


Smoother ride
Cheaper than hydros
No mess/hydraulic fluid
Less weight in car


----------



## lukedogg

sickthree said:


> Smoother ride
> Cheaper than hydros
> No mess/hydraulic fluid
> Less weight in car


^What he said.


----------



## Ciscos63ht

A&W said:


> One of my ybones on a customers ride


that looks clean


----------



## NFA Fabrication

8fifty said:


> Why wud u bag n x frame?


Why would you type like that? What does an X-Frame have to do with whether or not you would bag the car? I personally did this because I did not want to turn my car into a cut up $5K craigslist special by cutting it up for hydraulics. My car rides great, and it could be put back to 100% stock in an afternoon. I am not into clown car shit, I just wanted adjustable ride height, and to not destroy my car.

And if you are not into bags, why the fuck are you in the air suspension forum?


----------



## thunderstomper

x2


----------



## Simplicity

bigk8824 said:


> mines mounted under the dash on the driver side left of the steering wheel column


You have any pictures? You have 2 or 3 gauges?


----------



## bigk8824




----------



## 62Impala13s

Pic's of setup.New or used? Im interested.


Big nene 1 said:


> i have a complete air set up you're a Chevy, everything bolt on for $800 2 crome tanks,2 crime compressors, all switches & hoses


----------



## EMPIRE CUSTOMS

*​airbag specific 2x3 trailing arms*


----------



## Havocg12

Is the driveshaft holding up good?
Wat Tranny u running?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Havocg12 said:


> Is the driveshaft holding up good?
> Wat Tranny u running?


I am actually going in to the shop tomorrow to investigate a noise that I suspect is a driveshaft issue. I only hear the noise at about 80-90% lift, not at full lock up, or lower than 80%. I am running a new crate 305 with a rebuilt TH350 in my car. Will update with what I find.


----------



## Tugmaster

Did you ever resolve the issue with relocating the front shocks? I know the first shock mount you got was junk.
Thanks, Todd


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Tugmaster said:


> Did you ever resolve the issue with relocating the front shocks? I know the first shock mount you got was junk.
> Thanks, Todd


Not yet. Will be working on that soon!


----------



## NFA Fabrication

OK, found my driveshaft issue, it was simple, the rubber on my center bearing support was toast. $40 new part, and about 45 minutes labor, and all was well. They had a cheaper bearing at $15, but with the added stress of the extreme angles the air suspension puts on the driveshaft, it didn't seem like a place where you should skimp.


----------



## yuma64

NFA, stock carrier bearing and no slip?


----------



## Havocg12

Good tread....Some say when u lock up...driveshaft kits back of frame...(some notch back of frame)causing your problem...being you used Turbo 350 ...you probably had to wield in a crossmember for Tranny?.....if your issue occur s again check it out...maybe a slip yoke will be needed.. or play parked....and set a ride height...


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Havocg12 said:


> Good tread....Some say when u lock up...driveshaft kits back of frame...(some notch back of frame)causing your problem...being you used Turbo 350 ...you probably had to wield in a crossmember for Tranny?.....if your issue occur s again check it out...maybe a slip yoke will be needed.. or play parked....and set a ride height...


My driveshaft would probably contact the frame if it weren't for my shocks limiting travel. They are the shocks that came with my car when I got it, and I assume are to stock specs. The driveshaft gets within a few mm's of my frame. I will in the future be redoing the driveshaft completely with a slip yoke on the rear section, it would be a lot easier if there was some type of a slip yoke eliminator kit for a 2WD TH350, and there may be, haven't dug that far into that yet. My car came TH350 converted, but I see no custom welding regarding the trans swap. I will be looking at it all closer next time it is on the rack.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

OK, well another Carrier bearing ate shit! I had not really done any driveshaft research up until now, and think I am going with a solid center bearing, and a rear slip shaft. The factory set-up was really poorly designed from the get-go, but under stock driving heights wasn't put under too crazy of stress. Will post with pictures of how I go about this upgrade. Feel free to post links/thoughts as to what bearing assemblies are out there, I have made no decisions yet! It was really bad this time, car is getting flat-bedded to the shop tomorrow or Friday. It happened a block from home, so I was able to limp home.


----------



## Cali4Life916

NFA Fabrication said:


> Always smile when I see a '62! Where I live, I rarely get to see an Impala period, and I virtually never get to see a '62. Nice rig man!


I am out here in the Sacramento, CA area!!! uffin: Im not running any front shocks but am adding my rears back in. Also just upgraded to a alum polyurathan carrier and it has been working great. I hear a solid carrier is a ruff ride. Also had a lot of vibration and had to rebalance my driveline. I wil post some more pics. I am currently adding a Y-bone from Black Magic.:thumbsup:


----------



## Tugmaster

When you add the slip yoke make sure you get your driveshaft rebalanced and the u-joints are in phase. At the GM plant they only balanced them up to 1000 rpms. A good modern shop can balance them to 3000 rpms. I had mine redone and it made a big difference.
Todd


----------



## baggedout81

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/32-vehicle-parts-classifieds/32223-driveshafts-chrome-plating.html

Hit up Big Rich


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Sent him a PM yesterday, waiting to hear back. I got the Impala on the trailer, and it is headed to the shop in the morning. I will have to throw in a stock bearing for now to get it on the road, and just not ride with the rear above 75% or so (Only has issues at lock-up or close to). This week I will decide on my center bearing, and rear shaft. Waiting to see what Rich has to say. I am also wondering if he already has set measurements as this is a common driveshaft to make I'd guess. Any idea on his prices?


----------



## baggedout81

No idea on prices.But all the cats ive talked to havent had a problem


----------



## red chev

NFA Fabrication said:


> Sent him a PM yesterday, waiting to hear back. I got the Impala on the trailer, and it is headed to the shop in the morning. I will have to throw in a stock bearing for now to get it on the road, and just not ride with the rear above 75% or so (Only has issues at lock-up or close to). This week I will decide on my center bearing, and rear shaft. Waiting to see what Rich has to say. I am also wondering if he already has set measurements as this is a common driveshaft to make I'd guess. Any idea on his prices?


 he has it all..all the hydo guys with huge lock ups get alot of there parts from him


----------



## NFA Fabrication

red chev said:


> he has it all..all the hydo guys with huge lock ups get alot of there parts from him


Good to hear, but I still haven't heard back from him. Posted in his thread, and IM'd him last week.


----------



## mikeemery53

any body use the air bag kit fom BC Fab?


----------



## 8016fo

I was gonna order from them but the brackets weren't in stock. Ordered all my parts from gauge magazine and they had the best prices i could find and even discounted alot of stuff for making my own kit and great customer service ! Highly recommended . . Talk to Ginger if you use them !


----------



## NFA Fabrication

mikeemery53 said:


> any body use the air bag kit fom BC Fab?


The only part I bought for my project from them broke (Front shock relocator kit). I'd be skeptical, but most of their stuff is probably the same mass produced stuff that most are selling. I will be avoiding them. I did a ton of research, I'd highly recommend using the links in the original post.


----------



## golden age

hey great post! it's nice to see someone be very thorough and informative on here and wanting to help others with more info, and not just one word answers. i bagged my 64 impala 2 summers ago with the help of some great friends. i've had a few problems with the rear end rubbing and cutting tires so last year i broke down and got the tacoma rear end from black magic to hopefully eliminate that issue and to be able to run skirts as well. needless to say the rear end didn't come as i thought. unless you are expecting a rusty caked on grease rear end that also needed a new seal as it leaked like a stuck pig. we are seeing now that the mounts look to be off on the tacoma rear end when they are supposed to be "bolt right up". so with the mounts being off, i now have a cracked frame from where we installed the wishbone, which i bought from them as well. having the mounts off puts so much stress on the car, it's a wonder it didn't do more damage. i blew a bag the other night as when i lowered the car down, the bag was rubbing the drum in the rear. but when you raised the car up, we measured almost 5 inches of travel on the rear from side to side. needless to say, i wouldn't recommend going with a rear end from them unless you want to redo things. maybe it was a bad one from them? doubt it. and my friends helping me are some of the best around with suspension work so i doubt it's all our fault. didn't know if you were going that route or sticking with your factory rear but figured i'd let people know. good luck and keep doing what you're doing!


----------



## straight30weight

Is it safe to assume that the wishbone swap isn't necessary if you're not looking for a big lock up? With 7" of lift or so, how much does the panhard bar shift the rear? And it also sounds like a slip yoke is going to be required, yes? I'm going to throw some air on a 62 Belair, trying to get my research done now.


----------



## R1FIGHTER

Does anyone know if there is a better rear shock to run after you bag your car? 

btw, thanks for this thread. I'll start a new thread with pics of my 59 thanks to this thread.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Glad this thread has helped so many people! My next step is to replace my rear drive shaft section with a slip section, and replace the carrier bearing with a "Solid" unit. I am still on my stock rear shocks and I have a ton of travel, the only thing killing my rear travel is the stock driveshaft/carrier bearing situation. The "Y-Bone" does solve the side to side issue, but greatly increases the stress on the upper rear control arm X-member, which is a weak point from the factory. Mine was once re-welded by a previous owner, and I still have my panhard rod, and stock upper link. I will be going 4 link with mine after a few other things are done, it's on "The list"...


----------



## 8016fo

Thanks for the heads up on the ss7 bags. I too had to chase the threads. Running 1/2" hydraulic hose is a pain in the ass for the front cups. Definately looking into flow control valves for the fill. It's a lot faster then I expected. This thread has helped out a lot ! :thumbsup:


----------



## yuma64

8016fo said:


> Thanks for the heads up on the ss7 bags. I too had to chase the threads. Running 1/2" hydraulic hose is a pain in the ass for the front cups. Definately looking into flow control valves for the fill. It's a lot faster then I expected. This thread has helped out a lot ! :thumbsup:


Do you have pics of how you ran into front cups?


----------



## 8016fo

yuma64 said:


> Do you have pics of how you ran into front cups?


I notched them out similar to the rear cups. I'll try getting pics later today . .


----------



## R_XII

NFA thank you so much for starting this. I have a 59 El Camino and have been searching the net for the past several weeks trying to learn as much as I can and this one thread has tough me more in the 2 nights it took to read it than the several weeks of surfing! I really like the AccuAir system but they dont sell bags or hardware. Im new to the site and bags and have a few questions for everyone. these cars have a bad wheel hop when doing burnouts. Does getting rid of the springs and replacing them with bags help with this problem? I want to have my car low and to sit on the ground but its also gonna be a bit of a hot rod too. Ive also wondered about the solid center bearing with the yoke in the rear and how it holds up to a lot of power. How low does your car go with the bags deflated? will it sit on the ground? So many questions and I just got here! 

Thanks again for all the great info. When the time comes this will defiantly be my one stop shop for parts!


----------



## straight30weight

R_XII said:


> NFA thank you so much for starting this. I have a 59 El Camino and have been searching the net for the past several weeks trying to learn as much as I can and this one thread has tough me more in the 2 nights it took to read it than the several weeks of surfing! I really like the AccuAir system but they dont sell bags or hardware. Im new to the site and bags and have a few questions for everyone. these cars have a bad wheel hop when doing burnouts. Does getting rid of the springs and replacing them with bags help with this problem? I want to have my car low and to sit on the ground but its also gonna be a bit of a hot rod too. Ive also wondered about the solid center bearing with the yoke in the rear and how it holds up to a lot of power. How low does your car go with the bags deflated? will it sit on the ground? So many questions and I just got here!
> 
> Thanks again for all the great info. When the time comes this will defiantly be my one stop shop for parts!


I can help with some of your questions. The wheel hop is caused by suspension design, not the springs. You need a suspension that allows the car to "dig in", the stock Impala setup is really not good for that. A proper four link will fix it, along with a good set of shocks. The bags simply replace the spring. How low the car goes depends on the size tire you're running, and the amount of work you're looking to get into. I'm told that on a 14" tire (say 195-75) the car will lay on the frame. When you get into taller tires, there's more work required to lay it on the ground. If you're looking for more of a hot rod you probably won't be on that small of a tire.


----------



## R_XII

Ya I was looking at 16s or 17s. Thanks! Anyone know of a thread on 4 linking these cars? NFA you have any good links for some good reading about this? Also did you do a disk brake conversion? I'm going to be buying a conversion kit for mine and am debating the 2 inch drop spindle. Bags are next winters project but I wanna do everything right the first time so I'm not fighting things down the road.

Thanks again! This thread AND site has helped me a ton already!


----------



## richiev64

great tread my 60 rag will be next!


----------



## still HUSTLIN'

richiev64 said:


> great tread my 60 rag will be next!


 :werd: Xs 2


----------



## ~DROPITLOW~

:drama:


----------



## RUSTY FIERRO

~DROPITLOW~ said:


> :drama:













http://www.airassisted.ca/us/Metal-F...duct_info.html

_-Rear Air-Bags-




Website doesnt work... where can i find these rear brackets in phenix az for a 62 impala ? 

lmk thx



_


----------



## Simplicity

RUSTY FIERRO said:


> http://www.airassisted.ca/us/Metal-F...duct_info.html
> 
> _-Rear Air-Bags-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Website doesnt work... where can i find these rear brackets in phenix az for a 62 impala ?
> 
> lmk thx
> 
> 
> 
> _


Here is the updated link 
http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/metal-...evy-impala-and-wagon-rear-air-bag-mounts.html

Message me, if you have trouble, happy to help.


----------



## RUSTY FIERRO

Simplicity said:


> Here is the updated link
> http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/metal-...evy-impala-and-wagon-rear-air-bag-mounts.html
> 
> Message me, if you have trouble, happy to help.



THX


----------



## Havocg12

hit up bcfabrication.com. .70 bucks a set..dude is cool 2.....


----------



## Pacman310

I have a bag set up 2 5 gallon tanks 4 port on each one 2 compressors how should I install them I want to put my valves close to each bag. 64 impala. Any diagrams.


----------



## Pacman310

What about rear bag brackets just the lower cup. I bought mine from cce but the lower piece doesn't have the extra bracket to bolt it down to the trailing arm and it only has one hole to bolt to the bag.


----------



## krisFATAL

So i purchased one of these Y bones and about 4 inches before the axle hits the frame the Y bone hits my stock third member? I spun it out to roll the axle back and gained a little more head room but it will alter my pinion angle.. anyone else have this problem? car is going to be layed out and i need that down travel badly!


----------



## yuma64

krisFATAL said:


> So i purchased one of these Y bones and about 4 inches before the axle hits the frame the Y bone hits my stock third member? I spun it out to roll the axle back and gained a little more head room but it will alter my pinion angle.. anyone else have this problem? car is going to be layed out and i need that down travel badly![/
> QUOTE] Which one did you get and from where? Pic of it


----------



## krisFATAL

yuma64 said:


> krisFATAL said:
> 
> 
> 
> So i purchased one of these Y bones and about 4 inches before the axle hits the frame the Y bone hits my stock third member? I spun it out to roll the axle back and gained a little more head room but it will alter my pinion angle.. anyone else have this problem? car is going to be layed out and i need that down travel badly![/
> QUOTE] Which one did you get and from where? Pic of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hoping that the guy I purchased this from will make it right. Already one week behind schedule on this.
Click to expand...


----------



## yuma64

I have been looking at the Y bones and that's what I thought they would do. Have read on here some will clear but not sure which one's will. Let us know what you come up with.


----------



## yuma64

thunderstomper said:


> i built my brackets over the weekend. it took some time to prototype, but i'm happy with how they came out. i didn't end up having the steel at my shop so i bought what i needed from a local supplier. the material was about $20 total.
> 
> 
> material
> View attachment 591878
> 
> 
> plasma cut
> View attachment 591880
> 
> 
> lower plate
> 
> View attachment 591881
> 
> 
> upper cup
> 
> View attachment 591882
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i bolted the lower control arm on to the car and used a floor jack to cycle the bag... when fully compressed, i had about 3/4" all the way around the bag.
> 
> oh and a BIG thanks to NFA Fab, my Slam Specialties SS 7s had the exact same issue with the threads. i just barely
> started the bolts and noticed them getting
> snug, because of your post about the bad
> threads, i knew not to force it, so i chased the
> threads and now i can run the bolts all the
> way in easily, just with my fingers. good
> looking out!


 What length did end up on your rear cups? I'm making my own also. And what size wheels are you running? Thanks


----------



## thunderstomper

yuma64 said:


> What length did end up on your rear cups? I'm making my own also. And what size wheels are you running? Thanks


i can't remember exactly. i want to say they ended up being right around 5-1/4" tall overall, with square cuts, not angled like the front. fully laid out i have about a 1/4" between the top of the the axle housing and the frame. i'm running 14" steelies right now. i can get an exact measurement on those cups next time i'm working on the car.


----------



## Havocg12

I just got a y bone from empire ....it don't hit and is a nice piece.....


----------



## NFA Fabrication

*NOTICE!!*: This thread will no longer be supported by myself until I am allowed to re-edit the original post as was originally intended. The forum seems to have some sort of time limit on post editing, and by not allowing me to edit the original post with up to date info and links, it completely kills the entire purpose of this thread, and I see no reason to half ass it from here on it if I can't do the thread justice as intended. If this thread is important to you, or you have found it useful, please let the mods know that you would like to see it kept up to date by being able to be edited by myself in the future. If this is not doable, all info will be continued on another site, and will no longer be supported on Layitlow.com by myself.

I have already been contacted by forum vendors about updating links, but unless this is resolved, I am unable to do so at this time, thank you for your patience!


----------



## yuma64

Havocg12 said:


> I just got a y bone from empire ....it don't hit and is a nice piece.....


 Pics


----------



## Simplicity

@NFA you are right, I went back to look at some of my oldest posts, and there is no edit option.
That does suck. because as time goes by, items, links, prices will change, and a person will have to reread through all the pages
to get the right info.


----------



## straight30weight

I am just about done collecting parts to do up my 62, and I guess I'd like to do a recap of this thread to make sure I'm up to speed. I am going to run Slam Specialties ss7's up front (haven't bought them yet, so if there are other/better suggestions......), I have airlift dominator 2600's for the back. I have a pair of Viair 380's, I know they're a little slower than the 480's, but I got a great price on a dual pack and I don't play much. The car is only going to have 2 switches, front and back. I have a pair of 5 gallon steel tanks, but I want to run aluminum so I may switch those to an 8.5 gallon. I have water traps for the compressor inlets and before my valves. I also have checks for before the valves, and I have 8 SMC 3/8" valves. I still need to come up with brackets, I kind of want to make my own but I haven't really found a good diagram or know anyone with a set I can copy. I may tackle that when I tear into the car. 

Where I'm a bit torn is on whether or not I should do a Y bone or not. I "think" I need to at least run a slip yoke on the driveshaft and a solid carrier bearing. Is this true? I am not looking for big lift, I do not ride around with the ass in the air, if anything it's the opposite (ass down, front up). I'll decide if I want to extend my uppers when I see how bad the negative camber is at lock. Any other thoughts, suggestions, input on the Y-bone/driveshaft deal?


----------



## krisFATAL

It seems if you are not trying to lay your car out the Y bone will work, the point of me bagging my car is to slam it not to ride it high.. i am going to put it back to stock and see how low I get. the Y bone is a nice piece and design but it hits pretty bad and my rear end is 100% stock so not sure what the variable could be other then the link itself.. i noticed on the post of the chrome/painted frame shows the driver side mount (that i had to drill and bolt into my freshly restored frame) is much much higher then it "Should be" when i bolted the one i purchased into the factory pass. mount and the axle is aligns up slightly lower on the driver side one then the pass. if you moved it up, it might give you a little more travel but its going to put a bunch of stress on the bushings. 

Empire is also out of lower link bars and was terrible about contacting me back. called him 4 times and still no word or call back so i will go another route..


----------



## NRDave

So I glanced through this whole thread. I'm trying to lay out a 62 biscayne on 22s. What's my options?


----------



## 58 Del-pala

NRDave.. a lot of cutting fenderwells.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Got to meet Sir-Mix-A-Lot today, got a pic with the car...


----------



## caddyking

Woulda never recognized him if I saw him just walkin down the street. Glad to see he's not trying to dress like these gay swag fuckers


----------



## thefreshchef

Is anyone using the Ridetech rear strongarm links? any thoughts on them? besides strength, any other benefits in using them?
looking to bag my 61 parkwood. i will be using the accuair switchspeed management system with ss7 bags and ridetech front brackets.


----------



## R1FIGHTER

Just wanted to share the progess i've made thanks to this post. Much apprecated! Have yet to drive it and am a little scared about the carrier bearing as my car funds are drained for a while (baby 2 is almost here). Has anyone ran a different rear shock or is the stock shock working for everyone fine? -Brad


----------



## NFA Fabrication

R1FIGHTER said:


> Just wanted to share the progess i've made thanks to this post. Much apprecated! Have yet to drive it and am a little scared about the carrier bearing as my car funds are drained for a while (baby 2 is almost here). Has anyone ran a different rear shock or is the stock shock working for everyone fine? -Brad
> 
> View attachment 652941


My stock rear shocks are working amazing still, great travel! I am changing up my front set-up next weekend. Not being able to modify the original post of the thread is really killing me...


----------



## red chev

make a new post..part 2


----------



## ICCUSTOMS

Here's a rough pic of the rear. Steel mounts prices vary. I got the lowest prices, steel goes up & down like the stock market so no steady price. 

Free tech link go here 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/532524280140748/


----------



## ICCUSTOMS

ICC 

https://www.facebook.com/ICCustoms


----------



## sobayduece

NFA Fabrication said:


> My stock rear shocks are working amazing still, great travel! I am changing up my front set-up next weekend. Not being able to modify the original post of the thread is really killing me...


get over it and stop crying and post some pictures who cares about the original post this is what you wanted


----------



## Simplicity

NFA Patrick, I have been working on the options for our "Build your own Impala Kit. Check it out, and tell me what I missed.
What options does everyone Like?

Its hard to build 1 kit for everyone, I think this is the best option.

http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/build-your-own-1958-64-impala-air-ride-kit.html

:thumbsup:


----------



## NFA Fabrication

sobayduece said:


> get over it and stop crying and post some pictures who cares about the original post this is what you wanted


Doesn't really bother me anymore I guess, My car is done, was trying to help others by putting all the info in 1 place. If I can't do that, I am not going to bother, as this will just be another random Impala air suspension thread, completely defeating the purpose of what I set out to do. But thanks for coming in my thread and being a dick, really appreciate it.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Simplicity said:


> NFA Patrick, I have been working on the options for our "Build your own Impala Kit. Check it out, and tell me what I missed.
> What options does everyone Like?
> 
> Its hard to build 1 kit for everyone, I think this is the best option.
> 
> http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/build-your-own-1958-64-impala-air-ride-kit.html
> 
> :thumbsup:


I like the idea of what you have going here. I have 1 question, at the top you can select your "System" (2-way/4-way), and then lower you have your valve selection, again offering front/back option, even if the "System" selection is set to "4-way". And do those "Strong Arm" kits change what airbag brackets will be needed? Are they meant to be run with "Shockwave" style front bag/shock set-up?


----------



## Simplicity

I got new ideas..... thanks for the input Patrick, I see where that is confusing.
Ride tech does offer the arms for "Cool ride" With a bag..... shock Waves would push the prices way up. This was aimed more for the Budget guy.


----------



## red chev

ive heard of people running the hydraulic lines is that a option i did not see it!


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Simplicity said:


> I got new ideas..... thanks for the input Patrick, I see where that is confusing.
> Ride tech does offer the arms for "Cool ride" With a bag..... shock Waves would push the prices way up. This was aimed more for the Budget guy.


I'd never suggest Shockwaves anyway.



red chev said:


> ive heard of people running the hydraulic lines is that a option i did not see it!


That is more of a DIY, and is not done as much as you'd think from reading on here. It would be easy to upgrade them later, but each car is a custom application, so off the shelf length hydraulic lines will not fit all applications.


----------



## sickthree

Any feedback on shockwaves?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

sickthree said:


> Any feedback on shockwaves?


They'd be good for someone who is not big on fabrication but I have never seen a set have the travel you get with the separate bag and shock. It is a complete bolt on system with the right lower arms though. I have not to date seen a good front shock mounting kit for these Impala's, and finally went to the shop today and made my new front shock mounts from scratch. I used 1/4" plate, and 1978 Toyota Cressida rear shocks, sounds like an odd choice, but all my research on dimensions, and the mounting style I wanted on each end lead me to these. Here is a crappy camera phone pic of the drivers side mount almost done:


----------



## sobayduece

NFA Fabrication said:


> They'd be good for someone who is not big on fabrication but I have never seen a set have the travel you get with the separate bag and shock. It is a complete bolt on system with the right lower arms though. I have not to date seen a good front shock mounting kit for these Impala's, and finally went to the shop today and made my new front shock mounts from scratch. I used 1/4" plate, and 1978 Toyota Cressida rear shocks, sounds like an odd choice, but all my research on dimensions, and the mounting style I wanted on each end lead me to these. Here is a crappy camera phone pic of the drivers side mount almost done:


Good to see you stayed with it just make corrections as you go .keep the pictures coming .


----------



## DJ63

Maybe once these get done and you are happy with them, you can fab up a set to sell?



NFA Fabrication said:


> They'd be good for someone who is not big on fabrication but I have never seen a set have the travel you get with the separate bag and shock. It is a complete bolt on system with the right lower arms though. I have not to date seen a good front shock mounting kit for these Impala's, and finally went to the shop today and made my new front shock mounts from scratch. I used 1/4" plate, and 1978 Toyota Cressida rear shocks, sounds like an odd choice, but all my research on dimensions, and the mounting style I wanted on each end lead me to these. Here is a crappy camera phone pic of the drivers side mount almost done:


----------



## Havocg12

Nice wields looks good......peep some pics






























..


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Looks good! I am going to the shop this Saturday to extend/mold my upper arms 3/4". After that, all I have left is my rear drive shaft slip conversion and the 4 link on the rear end.


----------



## yuma64

DJ63 said:


> Maybe once these get done and you are happy with them, you can fab up a set to sell?


X2


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Got the arms done today. Still need a little work, but I had to get them back on the car as it is my daily driver. Extended 3/4", and then fully plated with 1/8" sheet for rigidity/aesthetics (Molded):


----------



## sickthree

NFA Fabrication said:


> They'd be good for someone who is not big on fabrication but I have never seen a set have the travel you get with the separate bag and shock. It is a complete bolt on system with the right lower arms though. I have not to date seen a good front shock mounting kit for these Impala's, and finally went to the shop today and made my new front shock mounts from scratch. I used 1/4" plate, and 1978 Toyota Cressida rear shocks, sounds like an odd choice, but all my research on dimensions, and the mounting style I wanted on each end lead me to these. Here is a crappy camera phone pic of the drivers side mount almost done:


Whats the measurements of the new shocks.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

sickthree said:


> Whats the measurements of the new shocks.


Monroe 5870: 
Compressed:14.250 
Extended: 23.875 
Travel: 9.625


----------



## thunderstomper

NFA Fabrication said:


> Got the arms done today. Still need a little work, but I had to get them back on the car as it is my daily driver. Extended 3/4", and then fully plated with 1/8" sheet for rigidity/aesthetics (Molded):


Uppers are looking good! Nice job dude.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

thunderstomper said:


> Uppers are looking good! Nice job dude.


Thanks! I need a slight camber/caster adjustment to eliminate a very slight left pull, and then I will just zero the toe out. But overall, drives very well! Interior and 4 link rear are top priorities now.


----------



## bb1960

I've just completed the back half of a 60 Impala, but at the same time made new upper and lower trailing arms as well as an adjustable panhard rod. 

For those out there looking to fab their own trailing arms for the rear, you can use 3X2 box section (I used 4mm wall thickness) with chromoly seamless tube (2.5in OD, 2.0in ID with a 1/4 wall thickness) for the bush housings with these bushes - ENS-9-9485G that are available for about $20 a pair. That will enable direct bolt in and has the correct tube ID and length for a great fit.

I welded the base plates for the bags directly to the top of trailing arm and made my own upper brackets at about 1/2 the cost of commercially available units. Photo's attached of ride height sitting on the original bump stops, I have about another 1.5 inches of drop once the bump stops are cut down or replaced based on bag measurements. I'm using RE-7's, as you can see, the jack is still under the car in the photo.....


The trailing arms cost a little less to make than commercially available ones, however, they are significantly stronger. I've had friends rip appart ride-tech ones with worked vehicles (ie LS1 @ 500hp). I run a supercharged 348 through a 700r4 and 9 inch, hence the trailing arms.








The front will start this weekend, this will consist of ridetech strongarms that use the standard style bags (RE-7s) and relocated shock mounts. 

I haven't run lines yet, however, am keen to listen to any advice. I've heard the lines can and also that they can't be run through the chassis rails from front to back. Which is true?

I also need to sort out the driveshaft length (I'm about 2 inches short with the 9 inch in it now) and am looking at a telescoping unit. Is it necessary to put the poly bush in with a telescoping shaft or not? 

Cheers,

Simon


----------



## R1FIGHTER

I ran my front lines through two convient spots in the firewall, then near the sills under the carpet. So far so good. I too was wondering about having to do a poly bushing when running a telescoping drive shaft. I'm taking my car to DTS wednesday.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

bb1960 said:


> I've just completed the back half of a 60 Impala, but at the same time made new upper and lower trailing arms as well as an adjustable panhard rod.
> 
> For those out there looking to fab their own trailing arms for the rear, you can use 3X2 box section (I used 4mm wall thickness) with chromoly seamless tube (2.5in OD, 2.0in ID with a 1/4 wall thickness) for the bush housings with these bushes - ENS-9-9485G that are available for about $20 a pair. That will enable direct bolt in and has the correct tube ID and length for a great fit.


I may be doing the very same for my control arms, thank you for the link to the bushings! I'd like to see some pics of those trailing arms you made if you took any. I will be ordering up some supplies soon to do my 4 link conversion, and may do the lower arms at the same time.


----------



## yuma64

Who has the best rear airbag cups for 64? Any recommended?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> Who has the best rear airbag cups for 64? Any recommended?


I got mine from air-assisted, and have not had a single issue, and have amazing travel with stock shocks and Slam Specialties SS-7 bags. I also ordered chromoly heim joints and all needed bungs, misalignment spacers, piping, etc. needed to do my 4-link conversion today.


----------



## yuma64

NFA Fabrication said:


> I got mine from air-assisted, and have not had a single issue, and have amazing travel with stock shocks and Slam Specialties SS-7 bags. I also ordered chromoly heim joints and all needed bungs, misalignment spacers, piping, etc. needed to do my 4-link conversion today.


Nice! Can wait to see your 4 link. Plz take pics.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> Nice! Can wait to see your 4 link. Plz take pics.


There will be pics! I also ordered new carpet and seat upholstery today. Getting there, bit by bit...


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Got some new parts for the build yesterday and today. Yesterday, all of my 4-link parts showed up, and today I got all of my seat covering, new carpet with fitted sound deadening. Starting to feel like I am making progress again! And that small 3/4" extension on my upper arms was perfect! higher lock-up, and less noise from the upper arm topping out while riding high. Hope to have 4-link install pics up this month.


----------



## bb1960

NFA Fabrication said:


> I may be doing the very same for my control arms, thank you for the link to the bushings! I'd like to see some pics of those trailing arms you made if you took any. I will be ordering up some supplies soon to do my 4 link conversion, and may do the lower arms at the same time.


The only picture I have is when it was incomplete. I've attached it. Doesn't show a whole lot, although if you look closely in the background you'll see an adjustable top arm replacement for the banana bar...... I'll see If I can get a better photo tonight.....


----------



## senossc

:thumbsup:


----------



## boyce18

Bad pic, but here's my rear lowers
Adjustable, tubular, with heavy duty joints


----------



## baggedout81

NFA Fabrication said:


> Got some new parts for the build yesterday and today. Yesterday, all of my 4-link parts showed up, and today I got all of my seat covering, new carpet with fitted sound deadening. Starting to feel like I am making progress again! And that small 3/4" extension on my upper arms was perfect! higher lock-up, and less noise from the upper arm topping out while riding high. Hope to have 4-link install pics up this month.


NICE!!! Didnt even see that you extended your uppers.I did 1 1/2" on my cutlass.Made for a crazy lock up!! Actually so much that i had to chain my lowers.At full lock up my brake line was getting stupid tight


----------



## Borracho84

A&W said:


> $230 plus shipping raw
> 
> I try to keep them in stock


Can u call me asap a&w 7793241880 i need them ybones for an impala thanks alot


----------



## AU_2Door_58

Hey mate, I know it's a bit late but thanks for posting up all this information.

I'm organizing parts for FBSS air control on my '58 2 Door BelAir. I am very glad you posted those pictures of the BCFab bolt on front shock mounts. 

I think I will go with their kit, but reinforce them to within an inch of their life, and add the suggested bracing on the inboard side to stop flex. I won't be running any sort of fast or crazy bag setup.

Thanks again.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

AU_2Door_58 said:


> Hey mate, I know it's a bit late but thanks for posting up all this information.
> 
> I'm organizing parts for FBSS air control on my '58 2 Door BelAir. I am very glad you posted those pictures of the BCFab bolt on front shock mounts.
> 
> I think I will go with their kit, but reinforce them to within an inch of their life, and add the suggested bracing on the inboard side to stop flex. I won't be running any sort of fast or crazy bag setup.
> 
> Thanks again.


Depending on how much travel you are aiming for, you might want to look into another option, aside from being crazy weak, they are too short to get a shock long enough to offer the full travel that is possible with a good bag (Recommending Slam SS-7's)


----------



## draggingwagon

we tried to install one of those A&W y bones... it seems if you're running anything bigger than 14s and small tires its not goin to lay on the ground. like someone else posted in this thread it hit the center chunk hard and still 3-4 inches from sitting on the ground with 20s with a decent tire

nice piece and seems well built but needs to advertise they arent meant for big wheels and layin out...


----------



## brad.ruggles32

Where did you get the interior kit? It looks good


----------



## NFA Fabrication

brad.ruggles32 said:


> Where did you get the interior kit? It looks good


It is the Cars1 brand kit from Classicindustries.com. I should have all my seats back from the upholsterer any day now. Can't wait to see them!


----------



## sickthree

Whats your part list look like for the 4 link setup


----------



## NFA Fabrication

sickthree said:


> Whats your part list look like for the 4 link setup


I purchased chromoly 5/8 Heims, 2 RH and 2 LH thread, with weld in bungs/jamb nuts, and 2 3' sections of tubing from for around $150 shipped (qsc8 on ebay, I purchased from them directly though, knowledgeable guys!). I will purchase 1/4 raw hot rolled steel plate to make my brackets from, probably $40 for 1' x 2', and then add some rectangle tube as i am making a new x-member for the upper links from scratch. Mine was previously cracked as many were, and was repaired in a manner not up to my liking. Probably ~$250 in materials by the time I am done. I will add pics when done. Excited to get rid of the panhard rod!


----------



## Emailad4me773

:thumbsup:


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Got the seats/carpet in today. To say I am happy might be the understatement of the year...


----------



## Jahlg

Sick! Love the white. So classy


----------



## shavedmax

NFA Fabrication said:


> Got the seats/carpet in today. To say I am happy might be the understatement of the year...


 very nice


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Further air suspension updates will be on a temporary hold for now...(added pic back, I accidentally deleted the source for the other one)


----------



## sickthree

Wtf !!!!!


----------



## red chev

NFA Fabrication said:


> Further air suspension updates will be on a temporary hold for now...


 DAMN....holyshit...worst nightmare!!!


----------



## Simplicity

That sucks.


----------



## 65ss

Simplicity said:


> That sucks.


x2


----------



## R1FIGHTER

awe man that sucks. Are you ok? What happened? I hope insurance will make it right


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Sitting at red light, guy behind me doing about 40 not paying attention, did not realize traffic was stopped. Went to the hospital today. He is insured. We'll see how this goes. not sure if this car is getting rebuilt, or if I have to get another six-fo. Either way, I will be driving a another '64 soon...


----------



## yuma64

Pic was removed or deleted is the icon I see? Post another pic. Is it pretty bad? U ok?


----------



## Fine59Bel

boyce18 said:


> View attachment 667218
> 
> Bad pic, but here's my rear lowers
> Adjustable, tubular, with heavy duty joints


sent you a PM uffin:


----------



## daoriginator64

Hey guys, will be on this thread for a while, I'm building a 1960 impala and i am going to air ride it. lots of good info on here. i want to know what are you guys take on tubular front a arms for the impalas and air ride?


----------



## daoriginator64




----------



## yuma64

daoriginator64 said:


> Hey guys, will be on this thread for a while, I'm building a 1960 impala and i am going to air ride it. lots of good info on here. i want to know what are you guys take on tubular front a arms for the impalas and air ride?


I went w the CPP tubular Upper Control Arm and asked CPP when I ordered if their lower arms would accept the flat plate lower bag mount? They were not sure. Looking at the pics of the tubular LCA it looks like you would have to weld tabs to the arms or weld the plate to the arms. I didn't want to take the chance of weakening the arm. Maybe you can find a cup style lower bag mount that will bolt on? Let us know what u find.


----------



## daoriginator64

ok ill keep you guys posted


----------



## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> Pic was removed or deleted is the icon I see? Post another pic. Is it pretty bad? U ok?


Just realized that, I fixed it.


----------



## yuma64

NFA Fabrication said:


> Just realized that, I fixed it.


Oh damn.... hate to see That. Is she repairable?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

yuma64 said:


> Oh damn.... hate to see That. Is she repairable?


She'll be on the frame rack in a week, and I'll go from there. If the frame is OK, it looks feasible, but a lot of work ahead either way...


----------



## sickthree

NFA Fabrication said:


> She'll be on the frame rack in a week, and I'll go from there. If the frame is OK, it looks feasible, but a lot of work ahead either way...


Looks a lot worse than it is . New trunk lid, full quarter panel, bumper ???
Hows inside the trunk look?


----------



## fatboy1964

yuma64 said:


> I went w the CPP tubular Upper Control Arm and asked CPP when I ordered if their lower arms would accept the flat plate lower bag mount? They were not sure. Looking at the pics of the tubular LCA it looks like you would have to weld tabs to the arms or weld the plate to the arms. I didn't want to take the chance of weakening the arm. Maybe you can find a cup style lower bag mount that will bolt on? Let us know what u find.


Whats up fellas....im building a bagged LS powered 64 impala. I bought the CPP front and rear tubular arms...let me tell you it was kinda of a pain in the. Ass with those arms. I was told the cup kits that everybody sells for those cars would fit. Well the upper bag cups work for the front and rear. The lowers on the other hand dont work. I sent my front lca and rear lower tubluar arm to BC FAB and they made up some plates that will work for the CPP lca...I got a build thread on LS1 tech under the conversions and hybrid section...my user name is fatboy64 if you want to see some pics


----------



## yuma64

fatboy1964 said:


> Whats up fellas....im building a bagged LS powered 64 impala. I bought the CPP front and rear tubular arms...let me tell you it was kinda of a pain in the. Ass with those arms. I was told the cup kits that everybody sells for those cars would fit. Well the upper bag cups work for the front and rear. The lowers on the other hand dont work. I sent my front lca and rear lower tubluar arm to BC FAB and they made up some plates that will work for the CPP lca...I got a build thread on LS1 tech under the conversions and hybrid section...my user name is fatboy64 if you want to see some pics


Post some pics of what they did to both front and rear lower arms.


----------



## yuma64

???


----------



## fatboy1964

My bad on the slow response, I been busy at work. When I get home I will try and post some pics...In my opinion though Hotchkis makes tubular control arms that have a plate to go with them...If I would do it again I would probly go with them


----------



## yuma64

No problem, when u get a chance on the pics that would be great. Thanks


----------



## fatboy1964

i guess what was a pain in the ass about it was they had my stuff for over 2 months, i don't have pics of the rear lower but the front lower is bolted and they supplied me with self tapping screws the back of the plate gets screwed into the back of the tube


----------



## REV. chuck

fatboy1964 said:


> i guess what was a pain in the ass about it was they had my stuff for over 2 months, i don't have pics of the rear lower but the front lower is bolted and they supplied me with self tapping screws the back of the plate gets screwed into the back of the tube


that bag clear everything in the front with no trimming?


----------



## fatboy1964

yea the bag clears everything in the spring pocket, no trimming at all. I'm using dominator 2600s. the reason i might not have had to trim the the pockets is the where they put the mounting hole for the lower bag. from what I've seen it looks like my bags are more inboard at the bottom than others. i got rid of stock control arms so i can't really check plus i don't have the lower mounting plate for the stock control arms


----------



## fatboy1964

i still wish it sat lower maybe bodydropped but i will deal with it


----------



## REV. chuck

looks like it sits good to me, if you get some time im sure we would all leave detailed pics of that front bag in the spring cup. 


also where did the tubular arms come from in the pic the balljoint ends on both upper and lower looks weak. thats just judging from the pic though.


----------



## fatboy1964

REV. chuck said:


> looks like it sits good to me, if you get some time im sure we would all leave detailed pics of that front bag in the spring cup.
> 
> 
> also where did the tubular arms come from in the pic the balljoint ends on both upper and lower looks weak. thats just judging from the pic though.





the arms all came from CPP. i replaced the ball joints since i took the picture so hopefully i don't have a failure…i will try and get better pics tomorrow if i got time, i will jack it up and remove the tire and get better lighting so you guys can see it more clear. the pics i have on my computer are kinda dark so its hard to see


----------



## ~DROPITLOW~

:thumbsup:


----------



## ~DROPITLOW~

NFA Fabrication said:


> Got the seats/carpet in today. To say I am happy might be the understatement of the year...


:thumbsup:


----------



## REV. chuck

fatboy1964 said:


> the arms all came from CPP. i replaced the ball joints since i took the picture so hopefully i don't have a failure…i will try and get better pics tomorrow if i got time, i will jack it up and remove the tire and get better lighting so you guys can see it more clear. the pics i have on my computer are kinda dark so its hard to see



im mostly interested in the not trimming aspect, this is being discussed two other places here both about an x frame, im all for trimming and reinforcing the spot myself but never seen an instance where it wasnt needed


----------



## yuma64

Great pics Fatboy1964. I am still curious about the rear lower arm modification that you had to do? Looks like you angled the lower mount back away so the bag will sit somewhat square when deflated? And how did you get the bolt hole from the bottom into the bags?


----------



## fatboy1964

i will post more pics this weekend and explain it with the pics…I'm working 16hrs everyday this week


----------



## jayteenaz

Hello...I was wondering what would be the minimum PSI needed to raise the front end of a 64

Thanks


----------



## NFA Fabrication

Some good news today finally on my car! I think we have finally resolved our claim, and hopefully my car will be in the body shop very soon!


----------



## NFA Fabrication

On the hunt for a new '64! Have up to $15K to spend currently! Any leads are greatly appreciated!


----------



## rollinlo64

Are u running drop spindles in the front of your impala?


----------



## NFA Fabrication

rollinlo64 said:


> Are u running drop spindles in the front of your impala?


No, I don't feel it needs them, would limit my up travel, and I get as low as I need/want. I bought a '64 SS today, and will be working to get this one to where I was with my last one ASAP:


----------



## caddyking

Looks tight homie...post more pics of the ride. Got any cash left over for chrome, goodies, etc?


----------



## R1FIGHTER

Glad that worked out. Where you able to keep anything from the old car?


----------



## sickthree

NFA Fabrication said:


> No, I don't feel it needs them, would limit my up travel, and I get as low as I need/want. I bought a '64 SS today, and will be working to get this one to where I was with my last one ASAP:


Congrats on the new ride. Looks good, more pics.
What happened to the old one?


----------



## yuma64

sickthree said:


> Congrats on the new ride. Looks good, more pics.
> What happened to the old one?


 Not sure if this helps and if you can run straight up out of the bag with a little bend this may work. I took some metal out of the bottom side. (Top of the cup to fit the line) then with hole saw cut what u can see here.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

sickthree said:


> Congrats on the new ride. Looks good, more pics.
> What happened to the old one?


Still have the old one, not sure what is happening with it just yet. It does have a clean title, and was not totaled out. It is most likely going to be for sale.


----------



## sickthree

NFA Fabrication said:


> Still have the old one, not sure what is happening with it just yet. It does have a clean title, and was not totaled out. It is most likely going to be for sale.


Great looking 1964 ss impala


----------



## red chev

NFA Fabrication said:


> Still have the old one, not sure what is happening with it just yet. It does have a clean title, and was not totaled out. It is most likely going to be for sale.


Nice!! is that the one that was in tri cities? nic...i have a unlimited suspension rearend that woeld look nice under there..


----------



## NFA Fabrication

red chev said:


> Nice!! is that the one that was in tri cities? nic...i have a unlimited suspension rearend that woeld look nice under there..


Yeah, it was in Moses Lake. It has it's issues for sure, but is a pretty complete car that just needs tons of maintenance. I got a new trans in it, and a few other things, so I got it driving now. Explain this "unlimited suspension rear end" to me...


----------



## jayteenaz

Hello, would somebody with a 64 please post pics of their driver side front airbag . I have noticed a small area on the upper corner of my 2600 airbag is pressed against the frame/spring housing when the bag has pressure. All my suspension is OEM and the kit I installed was supposed to be direct plug and play install. I am curious if I should try adding some spacers.

Thanks


----------



## yuma64

jayteenaz said:


> Hello, would somebody with a 64 please post pics of their driver side front airbag . I have noticed a small area on the upper corner of my 2600 airbag is pressed against the frame/spring housing when the bag has pressure. All my suspension is OEM and the kit I installed was supposed to be direct plug and play install. I am curious if I should try adding some spacers.
> 
> 
> Thanks


What do u need pics of?


----------



## yuma64

Wondering if the bagged 64s running 20s or bigger when layed out will the axle touch the frame before the tire hits the body? Wanting to find the rite rear brackets to buy to do this. Or is everyone trimming the brackets to fit? I am running CPP Tubular rear arms and Slam 6s. Thx


----------



## NFA Fabrication

jayteenaz said:


> Hello, would somebody with a 64 please post pics of their driver side front airbag . I have noticed a small area on the upper corner of my 2600 airbag is pressed against the frame/spring housing when the bag has pressure. All my suspension is OEM and the kit I installed was supposed to be direct plug and play install. I am curious if I should try adding some spacers.
> 
> Thanks


What brand/model bags are you running?


----------



## jayteenaz

Thanks for asking NFA I was able to install brackets/cups that were a 1/2 inch taller and the bags fit perfect.


----------



## NFA Fabrication

I ordered all of the air suspension parts to do up the new car on Friday, and will hopefully be ordering the 14x7 Daytons on Monday. Pretty sure I am going to have to lose my skirts with the 14x7's though. Only difference in what I ordered this time was that the front lines will now be 3/8", over running 1/4" all the way around, and I will be running 2 Viair 480C's with an 8 gallon tank, instead of the single 480C, and a 5 gallon tank.


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## Cluxford

straight30weight said:


> I can help with some of your questions. The wheel hop is caused by suspension design, not the springs. You need a suspension that allows the car to "dig in", the stock Impala setup is really not good for that. A proper four link will fix it, along with a good set of shocks. The bags simply replace the spring. How low the car goes depends on the size tire you're running, and the amount of work you're looking to get into. I'm told that on a 14" tire (say 195-75) the car will lay on the frame. When you get into taller tires, there's more work required to lay it on the ground. If you're looking for more of a hot rod you probably won't be on that small of a tire.


I have a 61 Buick with 18's on the front and 20's on the rears running shockwaves up front and firestone bags on the rear and it lays frame (well exhaust actually which is ever so slightly lower than the frame)


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## red chev

NFA Fabrication said:


> Yeah, it was in Moses Lake. It has it's issues for sure, but is a pretty complete car that just needs tons of maintenance. I got a new trans in it, and a few other things, so I got it driving now. Explain this "unlimited suspension rear end" to me...


 switchman inc in seattle does the toyota rear ends for those also..they are a 8.5 inch u can tuck your skirts real nice.there is a topic on them in the hydro section.89-93 toyota rear end put you mounts on it get a flange and your set..there is a company that sells the mounts and the y-bone set up also..


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## NFA Fabrication

Well, I finally got the new car on air (A big thanks goes out to Kevin at Airassisted!). Everything works well so far, I also built and installed 3/4" extended upper front arms at the same time. Went 8-gallon tank and 2 Viair 480C compressors this time, other than that, the install was identical compared to the one I documented in this thread initially. One of my 2 good friends that helped me turn wrenches on this install is in the drivers seat:


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## sickthree

^^^ looks good, more pics. 
How much you selling the other one for ?


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## NFA Fabrication

sickthree said:


> ^^^ looks good, more pics.
> How much you selling the other one for ?


I will get more pics soon. Other car was sold to a good friend, and we are fixing it. We already have the new quarters, trunk lid, trunk floor. We just need the side trunk extensions to connect the quarters to the trunk floor and the rear "Tail panel". All new metal from Classic Industries.


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## Big Hollywood

Clean SS. I'm thinking about doing air instead of juice in my '63. I have a wrapped frame (not on yet), and I've been calculating weight of batteries + weight of wrapped frame. I've always hated charging batteries, and I just want something I can lay on the ground, or lift-and-go. I'd also like to keep the Impala relatively quick, and keep ride quality (something I won't have with the added weight of steel/batteries and hydros). I'll check out Air Assisted.


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## googizzo

Thanks for such a great article...I just ordered all my parts i am bagging my 63 because of this thread . Going to have to ditch my 24's but they are ugly anyway... Thank You


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## NFA Fabrication

Big Hollywood said:


> Clean SS. I'm thinking about doing air instead of juice in my '63. I have a wrapped frame (not on yet), and I've been calculating weight of batteries + weight of wrapped frame. I've always hated charging batteries, and I just want something I can lay on the ground, or lift-and-go. I'd also like to keep the Impala relatively quick, and keep ride quality (something I won't have with the added weight of steel/batteries and hydros). I'll check out Air Assisted.



Go air for what you are looking for! 



googizzo said:


> Thanks for such a great article...I just ordered all my parts i am bagging my 63 because of this thread . Going to have to ditch my 24's but they are ugly anyway... Thank You


Hope you talked to Kevin at Airassisted! ("Simplicity" on here). I have done many installs, with products from many different companies, and they are the only company that I never have any issues with. Good luck with your install!


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## NFA Fabrication

Got my Daytons on today:


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## project60

Can anyone clarify for me: when using "slam specialties SS-7" airbags in the front, do you need to trim the pocket?
'60 impala


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

NFA Fabrication said:


> Got my Daytons on today:


Looking good on them D's


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

Big Hollywood said:


> Clean SS. I'm thinking about doing air instead of juice in my '63. I have a wrapped frame (not on yet), and I've been calculating weight of batteries + weight of wrapped frame. I've always hated charging batteries, and I just want something I can lay on the ground, or lift-and-go. I'd also like to keep the Impala relatively quick, and keep ride quality (something I won't have with the added weight of steel/batteries and hydros). I'll check out Air Assisted.


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## Jahlg

Nope. No trimming. But you should still check to make sure it doesn't rub.


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## NFA Fabrication

project60 said:


> Can anyone clarify for me: when using "slam specialties SS-7" airbags in the front, do you need to trim the pocket?
> '60 impala


As far as i know, the frame is basically the same as my 64's. I had to do no pocket trimming on either of my '64's to get the SS7's in there. I had make a hole out of the top of the frame for the air line, and clearance a second layer of metal hidden underneath for the airline. The pocket that has to be carved out for a lot of cars did not have to be touched on either of my '64 installs.


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## Big Hollywood

NFA that looks like it really gets down man. Is your SS laying frame? Also, any experience in any capacity with Accuair?


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## Rico63

Air bags r gay


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## NFA Fabrication

Rico63 said:


> Air bags r gay


You seriously took time out of your day to specifically visit the AIR SUSPENSION forum just to come in and say that? Do you spend a lot of your time going to places on the internet that revolve around stuff you hate? There's tons of shit on the web, try spending time in area's where they have stuff you like...


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## NFA Fabrication

Big Hollywood said:


> NFA that looks like it really gets down man. Is your SS laying frame? Also, any experience in any capacity with Accuair?


Does not lay frame, easily could with minor trimming of the upper cups, but this is my daily driver, so I like having the fail safe of not bottoming out if something were to happen. I have not used any Accuair, sorry, no experience with it.


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## red chev

put the skirts back on!!! nice job!!


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## NFA Fabrication

red chev said:


> put the skirts back on!!! nice job!!


I still have to investigate clearances on that one. I have seen many posts on here saying they won't work with the 14x7's.


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## R1FIGHTER

I apologise but did we figure out who had the best front shock relocators?


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## project60

When using "slam specialties SS-7" airbags, would you use bolts or studs?


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## NFA Fabrication

R1FIGHTER said:


> I apologise but did we figure out who had the best front shock relocators?


I have never seen a good set available anywhere. I made my own:












project60 said:


> When using "slam specialties SS-7" airbags, would you use bolts or studs?


I used bolts, but if I found nice hardened studs, I probably would have gone that route.


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## Jahlg

Those look just like the shock relocators I got from AAC.


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## NFA Fabrication

Jahlg said:


> Those look just like the shock relocators I got from AAC.


I started out with the set that looks like this:










And broke both with the SS-7 bags in 2 weeks. I then bought 4" x 1/4' steel, and made the ones you see pictured above, and used the shocks I mentioned previously in the thread and never had an issue after that. I have yet to install front shocks on the new Impala. I already purchased the metal and the shocks, and am planning to go to the shop on saturday to duplicate the ones I built above for the new car. I got my drive shafts from Show-cars.com today, and got them installed along with my solid carrier bearing I purchased from Ebay. So far, it has been perfect!


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## R1FIGHTER

Is that drive shaft combo a necessity? I had a new rear end seal put in, so far so good but i hear some binding when i have the rear slammed and the front cocked up.


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## NFA Fabrication

R1FIGHTER said:


> Is that drive shaft combo a necessity? I had a new rear end seal put in, so far so good but i hear some binding when i have the rear slammed and the front cocked up.


I've limped along with the stock drive shaft on both my 64's for some time, but it has always put my carrier bearing in compromising positions, and I have been through 4 carrier bearings in 2 years between the two cars. To do an air ride properly with full up/down travel in the rear, it really is necessary to have a reliable ride. Here is the link to the place that had very affordable shafts:

http://www.show-cars.com/13_Rear-End_01.html

I also had to buy a front shaft from them because the previous owner of my car fucked up my whole drive shaft situation, and nothing was the correct length. They have shafts available for virtually any transmission swap as well. So far, so good with mine! My set-up was $390 shipped, and i purchased the HD bearing from Ebay for $105 shipped. So just under $500 for a complete conversion. Most people will be able to skip the front $159 shaft, making the conversion even more affordable.


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## NFA Fabrication

My buddy that acquired my old Impala, changed out the front airlines to 1/2". So this video is with shocks, 3/8" Asco valves, 1/2" line, and Slam SS7 bags...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8ZtMSRb0LY


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## red chev

Dang thats fast...how is it coming along since the wreck?


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## project60

Any chance you can share a template/schematic/diagram for you custom fab shock brackets?


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## cannibal

Just caught this thread. Attached are a couple pictures of the 61 bagged belair I have been working on. Front tabbed shock towers. Running a RideTech air system, with RidePro digital controls .25 airlines. 16" Torq Thrust rims. Rear: CPP control arms upper and lower. Front: CPP tubular upper arms and stock lower.

I ended up smoothing out the spring pockets in the front so there was no chance of interference

View attachment 1219330
View attachment 1219338
View attachment 1219346


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## yuma64

cannibal said:


> Just caught this thread. Attached are a couple pictures of the 61 bagged belair I have been working on. Front tabbed shock towers. Running a RideTech air system, with RidePro digital controls .25 airlines. 16" Torq Thrust rims. Rear: CPP control arms upper and lower. Front: CPP tubular upper arms and stock lower.
> 
> I ended up smoothing out the spring pockets in the front so there was no chance of interference
> 
> View attachment 1219330
> View attachment 1219338
> View attachment 1219346


Can't see the pic's would like to see the rear setup I have the cpp arms also.


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## Vellu

I'm planning put air ride to my '60 Bel Air. Because of Finnish vehicle inspections, I would like to keep the car as original as I can. So, I would like to avoid any frame cutting etc and if necessary, put my car back to original suspension.

I have looked for complete kits and found plenty of them in many shops. But one I'm interested is exairride.com air ride kit. Is that direct bolt-on kit like they say in their website? Is that kit good or should I look for something else. 

Thanks and sorry for my bad english


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## creamed12

I have a LS1 bagged 63, I went with SS 8's in the front and SS 7's in the rear. Initially I had SS 7's in the front. From *MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE*, the 7's take too much air for lift. After switching to the 8's, I get more and a faster lift with less air. I did have to do some trimming, but it was worth it. If anyone needs/wants me to post any pictures, I will. My setup is FBSS, with stainless steel lines, 2 Air Zenith compressors, 8 gallon tank and Smart Ride Air system (pressure and height based).


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## yuma64

creamed12 said:


> I have a LS1 bagged 63, I went with SS 8's in the front and SS 7's in the rear. Initially I had SS 7's in the front. From *MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE*, the 7's take too much air for lift. After switching to the 8's, I get more and a faster lift with less air. I did have to do some trimming, but it was worth it. If anyone needs/wants me to post any pictures, I will. My setup is FBSS, with stainless steel lines, 2 Air Zenith compressors, 8 gallon tank and Smart Ride Air system (pressure and height based).


Absolutely we would like to see some pictures of your ride


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## creamed12

This is how I trimmed out the pocket. I had this on the car for about 3 years now and never had an issue with rubbing.






I know it's dirty.


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## yuma64

Nice. On the front what is that smaller bar coming down like it's tied to another sway bar?


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## creamed12

Air ride height sensor


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## yuma64

Oh sweet.


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## pink63impala

Havocg12 said:


> Nice wields looks good......peep some pics
> View attachment 660564
> View attachment 660565
> View attachment 660566
> View attachment 660567
> View attachment 660568
> ..


Are the plates on topside of the frame necessary on the rear? I'm trying to piece a setup together and don't recall seeing any of them.


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## NFA Fabrication

pink63impala said:


> Are the plates on topside of the frame necessary on the rear? I'm trying to piece a setup together and don't recall seeing any of them.


Those plates are typically used when the vehicle was previously equipped with hydraulics, because a large hole is cut right there in the frame for the cylinder to pass through.


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## Johnnyfive

Awesome thread homie!! I got a 64 I'm going bags all the way just gotta start buying it piece by piece!


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

Johnnyfive said:


> Awesome thread homie!! I got a 64 I'm going bags all the way just gotta start buying it piece by piece!


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## pink63impala




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## pink63impala

I need to raise it up a bit it sits on my oil pan


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## pink63impala




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## BigVics58

cannibal said:


> Just caught this thread. Attached are a couple pictures of the 61 bagged belair I have been working on. Front tabbed shock towers. Running a RideTech air system, with RidePro digital controls .25 airlines. 16" Torq Thrust rims. Rear: CPP control arms upper and lower. Front: CPP tubular upper arms and stock lower.
> 
> I ended up smoothing out the spring pockets in the front so there was no chance of interference
> 
> View attachment 1219330
> View attachment 1219338
> View attachment 1219346


I recognize that elco....


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## rh1077

I'm installing an accuair elevel on my 61. Does anyone have pics show in where they mounted the ride height sensor on the front and rear. I'm running stock arms and plan on installing front shock relocators. 
Thanks for the help this is my first go at this.


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## 64doorimpala

Awesome info here! I'm very new to air ride but just picked up a 4 door 64 impala that I just want to put bags and wheels on. I know the route I'm going to take. EDC (Sanden, I've built EDC from a Sanden for my jeep before) with an 8 gallon tank and FBSS. I know I want to use SS bags but here are a few questions I have.

Keep in mind this is a budget build as its a 4 door

1- what size bags should I consider using? I want a fairly fast setup and will be using 1/2" valves. Who has the best brackets for said bags?
2- what valves and controls should I consider? It's a four door and I dont want to break the bank on a cheap cruiser.
3- would a y bone be enough to solve the pan hard bar issue. Any opinions and what one I should be considering? Ditch the sway bars?
4- lastly I want to run 14" wires. What size works best with a bagged 64? (14x7, 6, etc?) and what tire should I be looking to run so it'll all fit.

About me- I have access to a lot of tools and I fabricate custom motorcycles and parts for a living so fab work is nothing for me, I'm just super new to impalas and air ride.


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## RobLBC

64doorimpala said:


> 4- lastly I want to run 14" wires. What size works best with a bagged 64? (14x7, 6, etc?) and what tire should I be looking to run so it'll


14x6 Reverse with 175/75R14, 175/70R14, or 5.20x14


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## Jahlg

Hit up aac, bought my whole kit from then for my 64


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## 64doorimpala

Thanks RobLBC that helps me a ton. I searched and searched on here and really couldn't find a solid answer. I hope this helps other new guys in the future!


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## 64doorimpala

Jahlg said:


> Hit up aac, bought my whole kit from then for my 64


That's what I was told. Sounds like my best bet is to get my EDC on the motor and pumping air then call aac to put together my "kit". Thanks man, clear cut answers are a huge help


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## DJ63

Question, with bags do we have to extend the front arms?


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## Jahlg

Don't have to


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## rs12




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## Bigpokie

has any one fitted re or ss 8's in the front of a x frame impala ? i know 7's fit no cutting, so im assuming 8's would fit with some trimming.


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## Bigpokie

Bump


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## flawless_acosta

Awesome old thread.. I just bought a clean 60 bel air by accident... I'm building a frame off 64 SS, rag conversion on juice now.... So this 60 is my daily and will be on air. Kit ordered and coming next week. Car is on my 64s 13" spokes for now. Going back to OG hubcaps when my Coker wide whites come in..


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## BareBones48

Hey NFA any chance you could give us measurements on those shock mounts you made? I joined the forum because of this thread. I just got a 60 bel air that I'll be bagging in the next month or so. This thread has been super informative.


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## Krod

Anyone still running stock sway bar while bagged?Starting on mine and not sure if I need to leave it or remove it


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## Bigpokie

I’ve still got my front sway bar. I don’t play with mine though. Lift it, drive it, lay it.


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## Krod

I have read leaving the sway bar will limit side to side movement but dont plan on using that so much just dont want the car to be all over the place when I try to drive it down the road I think maybe I will leave it for now


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## Bigpokie

Anyone got opinions on kits they run for a 64 impala with front disc brakes and drop spindles on reverse supremes? I’m getting rid of the single pot MC and going dual and power. Since I’m going power I might as well go front disc. Since I’m going disc I might as well do drop spindles. You see how this goes.


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## Bigpokie

14x7 btw


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