# how to fab a bad ass rear suspension



## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

on my cutlass im looking to put 16 or 18 inch strokes in the back. my cutty will be a street car, and possibly a daily driver. i want my rear axle to have as good of travel as a rock crawler. ive driven tons of juiced cars and ive noticed usually the more travel in the rear the more shitty they drive and the more the rear axle tends to float especially when turning. is it possible to have the best of both worlds? can you have great flexibility for 3 wheeling and a high lock up while also having 0 axle sway?

i dont want to cut any corners at fabbing this rear suspension.

I know that using spherical rod end bearings are often used instead of bushings in vehicles with very highly articulating rear axles, like offroad vehicles like rock crawlers and jeeps and shit. but bushings will definatly make it have the tight ride with the 0 axle sway im after. so, whats the best to use? 

my last project was a caprice and i dropped the upper trailing arm mounts about 5". but, i think the best design is when the upper trailing arms are damn near the same length as the lowers. and when the upper trailing arms are mounted directly to the frame.

can yall shed some light on how to re locate the upper trailing arm mounts to the frame to allow for the longer trailing arms?

please post as many pix, and give me as much as info as possible about fabbing the long upper trailing arms and mounting them directly to the frame.


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

ttt


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## Unlimited Hustle (Jul 8, 2002)

I have some Pictures from a G-body frame we did about 2 months ago, I'll upload them tonight and post them. Frame is at Powder Coat and should be back at the end of the week so I'll post those then. If you have any questions feel free to give me a call or I can also text you the Pictures as well if you would like to see them sooner.

Thanks
Rick
509-727-7077


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## BlackMagicHydraulics (Sep 21, 2003)

For 16-18's you can get a way with just a dropped upper ,and adjustable upper as pictured with my lady's cutty.
Here it is with a caprice lower trailing arm, laid out and locks up a full 18''...Drivable at all heights, small vibration when driven laid out









If your looking for the more triangulated set-up we offer this bolt in long arm kit , which uses the stock lower trailing arm mounts for the new upper, and a relocated ,bolt on lower mount with longer tarailing arm








These start at $450.00 ....$500.00 with the axle pivot bushing ,which helps in mis-alignment of factroy rubber bushing thats in the axle
These are designed more for the hopper in mind, but can be extremly streetable becuase of corrected suspension geometery over factory specs


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

BlackMagicHydraulics said:


> For 16-18's you can get a way with just a dropped upper ,and adjustable upper as pictured with my lady's cutty.
> Here it is with a caprice lower trailing arm, laid out and locks up a full 18''...Drivable at all heights, small vibration when driven laid out
> 
> 
> ...


how much longer are the caprice lowers than cutty lowers?
on that cutty, does it just have dropped uppers? and if so, how does it drive? is it squirrley? i just really want my lolo to have a very solid feeling when you drive it, i want the rear end to be very tight, i hate when youre in a lolo and the axle feels like its floating any time you make a turn.

any pix of your long arm kit installed?


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

ttt


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

The lowers are 1inch longer than the gbody. if im not mistaken


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## whiteboy954 (Jun 29, 2011)

I'm glad I found this thread cause I was thinking of doin the same thing. I have 14s now and want to switch to 16s and my car get crazy around 60mph.


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## 51/50 (May 15, 2010)

How much longer are lower lac trailers than caprice?


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## CasinoDreams (Jan 14, 2006)

i think caprice ones are longer by 3 inches then g bodys not 100% sure, but i need some lower g bodys lol


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

Wassup Casino!!! 
Lac n Cadi trailing arms are the same length i believe


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## Pjay (Jul 2, 2006)

They are 3" longer than gBody


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

whiteboy954 said:


> I'm glad I found this thread cause I was thinking of doin the same thing. I have 14s now and want to switch to 16s and my car get crazy around 60mph.


X1000000

im 21, i need the advise from the ogs, that have been building lowriders, what is the best way to have good travel, without sacrificing driveability. i dont want my axle to float like on some of my prior lowriders....


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## CasinoDreams (Jan 14, 2006)

Hannibal Lector said:


> Wassup Casino!!!
> Lac n Cadi trailing arms are the same length i believe


chillin homie yea lac and cadi are the same


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## whiteboy954 (Jun 29, 2011)

I just picked up some lower stock 90 lac lowers. They look 3 inches longer. My buddy that is helping me build my car said that is to long. I adjustable uppers. With the lac lowers work without modifying them?


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## 85cutlasslolo (Apr 12, 2011)

Quick question im gana run 14s on my cutty does any1 recommend puttin caprice lowers on my ride i already got the upper adjustables or should i just keep my stock lowers


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

ttt

will someone post some pix of their fabrication work on their rear suspension....


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

14's is as high as I'd go on a highway driven possible daily driver. Extend the upper trailing arms, drop the mounts, and replace any questionable rearend bushings. Keeping stock lowers means you can leave the sway bar on and there shouldn't be any "floating" on the highway. Up to 90mph and my regal feels solid switching lanes. I also have dual dumps on the front pump so no fluid transfer on turns and accumulators on the rear to absorb bumps.


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## Jack Bauer (Jan 10, 2010)

low4life86 said:


> X1000000
> 
> im 21, i need the advise from the ogs, that have been building lowriders, what is the best way to have good travel, without sacrificing driveability. i dont want my axle to float like on some of my prior lowriders....


Lmmfao. REAL OG LOWRIDERS don't put huge cylinders in their cars and don't care about raising their cars up that high, because real LOWRIDERS simply lowride.


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## 51/50 (May 15, 2010)

low4life86 said:


> ttt
> 
> will someone post some pix of their fabrication work on their rear suspension....


Elco w/drops and uppers and lowers stock length


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## LowIndyd (Jun 27, 2009)

Jack Bauer said:


> Lmmfao. REAL OG LOWRIDERS don't put huge cylinders in their cars and don't care about raising their cars up that high, because real LOWRIDERS simply lowride.


Truth! :thumbsup:


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

Jack Bauer said:


> Lmmfao. REAL OG LOWRIDERS don't put huge cylinders in their cars and don't care about raising their cars up that high, because real LOWRIDERS simply lowride.


then i suppose im a fake lowrider. even though i installed my first setup by myself when i was 14, now im 21 and have owned 5 juiced cars only 1 that wasnt juiced by me, which was a black magic cutlass hopper.... but im glad to know that this whole time when i thought i was a lowrider, it was just an illusion, all because i want the rear suspension in my cutlass to have more travel than a normal car. thanks for clarifying this.


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

cashmoneyspeed said:


> 14's is as high as I'd go on a highway driven possible daily driver. Extend the upper trailing arms, drop the mounts, and replace any questionable rearend bushings. Keeping stock lowers means you can leave the sway bar on and there shouldn't be any "floating" on the highway. Up to 90mph and my regal feels solid switching lanes. I also have dual dumps on the front pump so no fluid transfer on turns and accumulators on the rear to absorb bumps.


how do i keep my sway bar when i intend on 3 wheeling? that seems counter productive.


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## Jack Bauer (Jan 10, 2010)

low4life86 said:


> then i suppose im a fake lowrider. even though i installed my first setup by myself when i was 14, now im 21 and have owned 5 juiced cars only 1 that wasnt juiced by me, which was a black magic cutlass hopper.... but im glad to know that this whole time when i thought i was a lowrider, it was just an illusion, all because i want the rear suspension in my cutlass to have more travel than a normal car. thanks for clarifying this.


Lmao, you been doing this for 7 whole years...do you expect to be categorized as an OG lowrider?

Reply back in about 20 years when you are my age and tell us how you really feel!!!


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

low4life86 said:


> how do i keep my sway bar when i intend on 3 wheeling? that seems counter productive.


True, having the rear sway bar does hold back on the 3 wheel height. I can 3 just fine with the sway bar though and it leaves the car completely driveable. No need to have both hands on the steering wheel with a death grip at high speeds.


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

Jack Bauer said:


> Lmao, you been doing this for 7 whole years...do you expect to be categorized as an OG lowrider?
> 
> Reply back in about 20 years when you are my age and tell us how you really feel!!!


did i once call myself an og?

im a 21 year-old "fake" lowrider. because i want 16" cylinders in my cutlass. thats all im claiming to be


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

whats the biggest rear cylinders i can fit without hitting my rear deck? i dont mind taking the speakers out if they'll hit? and i still want it to lay reasonably low. i dont like it when the car sits at damn near stock height when its fully dropped. i just dont want my cylinder to hit the deck when i 3 wheel, im thinking of just using some 2 ton pre cut coils with 1.5 turns cut off them.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

14's are largest without hitting rear deck unless you go with telescopics. Even 14's could hit the deck if you don't have enough coil. If you want a low stance in back, then 16" cylinders arent an option. Do you have adjustable trailing arms, drop mounts, relocated mounts, and a slip yoke?


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## Unlimited Hustle (Jul 8, 2002)

Sorry I didn't post these pictures earlier, I got a few messages for them I took for granted you may have been 1 of them. Originally this frame was suppose to be a mild wrap for a 2pump 6 battery setup and has now gone into a 3 pump 12 batteries setup for lock up and 3 wheel. Rear frame was also narrowed 1" on each side of the arches for extra wheel clearance and for 95 Caprice disc brakes not to rub on the frame while 3 wheeling



















This picture shows a better view of where we mounted the uppper arm mount to the frame rail. It was tacked in place only for the mock up, after this we removed the mount to add a reinforcement plate from the mount area forward to the center section, which I highy recommend.


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## Unlimited Hustle (Jul 8, 2002)

I use 16's and reverse deep cups on precuts and they don't rub when 1st installed but after the coils break in then they will touch, You can use 16's with shallow cups but it will sit 1-2" higher in the rear, guess it depends on how low and high you want the car to sit


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

Unlimited Hustle said:


> Sorry I didn't post these pictures earlier, I got a few messages for them I took for granted you may have been 1 of them. Originally this frame was suppose to be a mild wrap for a 2pump 6 battery setup and has now gone into a 3 pump 12 batteries setup for lock up and 3 wheel. Rear frame was also narrowed 1" on each side of the arches for extra wheel clearance and for 95 Caprice disc brakes not to rub on the frame while 3 wheeling
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thats beautiful, how low will it lay? will it still sit low?


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## whiteboy954 (Jun 29, 2011)

Jack Bauer said:


> Lmao, you been doing this for 7 whole years...do you expect to be categorized as an OG lowrider?
> 
> Reply back in about 20 years when you are my age and tell us how you really feel!!!


This all coming from the guy named jack Bauer on a Lowrider site. Ooh he's from the counter terrorist unit. Hahahaha grow up


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

whiteboy954 said:


> This all coming from the guy named jack Bauer on a Lowrider site. Ooh he's from the counter terrorist unit. Hahahaha grow up


hahaha exactly. every one feels the need to put their 2 cents into everything. he should stick to counter terrorism.


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## hoppin92 (Jul 5, 2007)

Jack Bauer said:


> Lmao, you been doing this for 7 whole years...do you expect to be categorized as an OG lowrider?
> 
> Reply back in about 20 years when you are my age and tell us how you really feel!!!


people like you fuck up lowriding keep your smart ass comments to your self


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

Hey fellas, I also want an excellent 3 wheel. What's the best way to prevent the rear drum from rubbing on those big 3 wheels? Do u think a wishbone is better than a triangulated 4 link at preventing the drum from rubbing the frame? What are any other tricks? How did you narrow the frame, unlimited hustle?


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## Unlimited Hustle (Jul 8, 2002)

Trim back to the weld seem and be sure to leave a little from the rolled edge of the frame which you can see the pen mark, this makes it easier to weld back together otherwise you will get a lot of burn through holes, We trimmed an extra inch down from this mark on the rear of the arch after this 1st cut, Cut both top and bottom of frame to match, Took us 30-45 minutes to cut and weld back together both side










I don't have any pictures of the factory part of the frame before reinforcement but you get the idea in these pictures of what it should look like. Follow the curves of the frame in front and rear of the arch for your tie In's and you have it right on. I have seen other guys cut only where the wheel sits which suites the same purpose, since we were plating the frame I choose to do it this way for the cosmetic appearance. Had my son do a double pass on this joint to insure no separation, First pass down leaves a valley for the 2nd pass to melt in nicely and level with the frame and plate for easy molding with a grinder.


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## Unlimited Hustle (Jul 8, 2002)

I prefer 4 link for the rear, Monster 3 wheels are hard on the upper bushing mounts on the rear axle so reinforcing those are recommended. You do have to preheat the cast steel on the 3rd member to get a good weld to hold when you weld to it. Black Magic sells a swivel joint that takes the place of the upper bushing which work well in this application.

I have never done a Wishbone on a car that normally has a 4 link setup so I couldn't tell you which one would be a better choice. 

Modifying the rear for the wishbone is just as easy as building the longer arms for what you asked in the begining, the hardest part is to choose to weld the mount directly to the center of the casted pumpkin or to build a Truss over the pumpkin to have it attached to the axle tubes as well as welded to the cast ! 

If I choose to do a wishbone style I would build the Truss


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## Don Pedro (Apr 23, 2008)

_What it do Jason. Might go to tucson in couple of weaks, i'll give u a heads up.
Here's a pic of the Black Magic swivel joint that replaces the rubber bushing on the upper ears on the rear end. They allow more articulation to your arm.
Wr have them in stock here @ Coronado Customs in Yuma Az also.








_


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## Jack Bauer (Jan 10, 2010)

hoppin92 said:


> people like you fuck up lowriding keep your smart ass comments to your self


People like you FUCK up lowriding because you tear your cars up hopping, 3 wheeling and lifting your car as high as a monster truck. So go fuck yourself with a 16" cylinder.


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## low4life86 (Jul 6, 2005)

Jack Bauer said:


> People like you FUCK up lowriding because you tear your cars up hopping, 3 wheeling and lifting your car as high as a monster truck. So go fuck yourself with a 16" cylinder.


the point of this topic is to gain knowledge, and share insight. not for haters to run their mouths so please take your disrespectful comments elsewhere.


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## 84Joe (Nov 22, 2009)

low4life86 said:


> then i suppose im a fake lowrider. even though i installed my first setup by myself when i was 14, now im 21 and have owned 5 juiced cars only 1 that wasnt juiced by me, which was a black magic cutlass hopper.... but im glad to know that this whole time when i thought i was a lowrider, it was just an illusion, all because i want the rear suspension in my cutlass to have more travel than a normal car. thanks for clarifying this.


:thumbsup:


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## NYC68droptop (Aug 30, 2004)

Unlimited Hustle said:


> Trim back to the weld seem and be sure to leave a little from the rolled edge of the frame which you can see the pen mark, this makes it easier to weld back together otherwise you will get a lot of burn through holes, We trimmed an extra inch down from this mark on the rear of the arch after this 1st cut, Cut both top and bottom of frame to match, Took us 30-45 minutes to cut and weld back together both side
> 
> 
> 
> ...



thats a great idea. nice work


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