# The Reinvention Of The 12 Volt Solenoid Tutorial



## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

"The Reinvention Of The 12 Volt Solenoid" Tutorial by Daniel Ducati

Ive tested 2 of theses solenoids in my low-low for almost 2 weeks(1 noid per pump,running 2 pumps and 4 dumps)in my set up,running 48 volts with 6 batteries(3 series,3 parrallel).and they have not even fliched!
(see original post for testing results)
http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=571135

The contact plate that was replaced in the solenoid is a silver/brass/zinc mixed metal plate(15%silver,15% Zinc,70% brass)...
it is not silver plated.......ok here we go.

1.These are the tools you will need








2.as well as a drill with a step drill bit or regular drill bit








3.A brand new 12 volt solenoid (autozone part #f496),ok here we go...








4.First you will have to drill out the 4 rivets on the solenoid.








5.after you dill out all 4 rivets remove plate and resistant gasket,you will see the solenoid piston inside..








6.Now we will undo the nut that holds the copper stabalizer arm(which is useless)








7.You will now pull out the piston and drill out the brass piston rivet on top of the piston with the drill.








8.now you see all the piston parts layed out.....when we reassemble the solenoid piston we will not use the copper stabilizer arm,upper spring,Copper contact plate, or brass top(they are all useless)








9.Here is the new thick contact plate(made of brass/silver/zinc mixed not silver plated)on the left compared to the 
stock copper thin plate on the right.








10.Now reassemble solenoid piston(plasted bottom,new contact plate,resistant spacer,metal washer and the nut
that will hold it all together.








11.The nut that will secure all the parts together will have to be forced onto the piston with a hammer.once the nut is secure on the solenoid piston you will not be able to remove it.








12.Now all parts are secure on the solenoid piston








13.Here is the stock solenoid piston retraction spring(far left)which looks flimsy as hell,in the center you see the new retraction spring I cut down from what its original size shown on the far right((the New spring has to be cut down a line shorter than the original stock one since the new springs tension is alot stronger than the stock solenoid spring 








14.Now we have all the parts layed out ready to be reassembled.








15.The Piston and Spring go in first.








16.Then the Resister gasket.








17.Then the metal plate.You will need 4 small nuts and bolts to hold it all together
(see nuts and bolts upper right hand corner of pic)








18.bolt goes in








19.Bolt is in.








20.Finally we are done reassembling the solenoid..Now go install it and have fun!










(Any disclosure of replacement part#'s or parts purchase locations will not be made)


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## 214monte (Jun 25, 2006)

how much for one of these? :cheesy:


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

good shit. I like your disclosure lol


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

So you gonna start selling these? Whats the ticket?


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## RF LINCOLN (May 20, 2009)

:uh: I think he wants us to build our own...  Where do we get the parts we need??


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

So this is NOT a tutorial.


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

(Any disclosure of replacement part#'s or parts purchase locations will not be made)

What a cock tease if your not selling the parts and aren't going to tell us where to get them parts what's the point of this thread?


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## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by MR.MEMO_@Dec 9 2010, 11:16 AM~19283855
> *(Any disclosure of replacement part#'s or parts purchase locations will not be made)
> 
> What a cock tease if your not selling the parts and aren't going to tell us where to get them parts what's  the point of this thread?
> *


want everything on a silver plater too?

atleast he shared what hes doing not much to figure out just were to get the same washer and spring which cant be that hard, its good for someones finaly trying to improve things that have obvious problems instead of having the thats good enough attitude. And if he dosent want to say were he got the parts thats perfectly fine he figured it out he could have easily kept everything to himself and started selling these. cant talk shit because no one showed him he had to figure it out


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 214monte_@Dec 9 2010, 11:22 AM~19283431
> *how much for one of these? :cheesy:
> *


You tell me.....How much is one brand new 12 volt solenoid that was redesigned to handle 48 volts flawlessly worth to you??


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## BAD70 (Feb 12, 2009)

Thanks for sharing, Daniel. Good stuff.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Well done. Good to see some other guys posting something more worth while than a bunch of chromed parts. :thumbsup:


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Dec 9 2010, 02:29 PM~19283954
> *want everything on a silver plater too?
> 
> atleast he shared what hes doing not much to figure out just were to get the same washer and spring which cant be that hard, its good for someones finaly trying to improve things that have obvious problems instead of having the thats good enough attitude. And if he dosent want to say were he got the parts thats perfectly fine he figured it out he could have easily kept everything to himself and started selling these. cant talk shit because no one showed him he had to figure it out
> *


Geesh don't get your panties in a twist just direct me to the silver platters you speak of so I can pick up some of these solenoids. :happysad: seriously I wouldn't give up my source either start selling these on here. You could make a nice chunk of change selling these but first copywrite/ patent this. Good work man :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

so one solenoid willl handle 48v? will you finish your tutorial with a video of 1 noid with 48v with a little bit of chipping action please :biggrin:


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by KingsWood_@Dec 9 2010, 01:29 PM~19284351
> *so one solenoid willl handle 48v? will you finish your tutorial with a video of 1 noid with 48v with a little bit of chipping action please :biggrin:
> *


yes,one solenoid can handle 48 volts flawlessly.


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## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by MR.MEMO_@Dec 9 2010, 12:20 PM~19284311
> *Geesh don't get your panties in a twist just direct me to the silver platters you speak of so I can pick up some of these solenoids.  :happysad:  seriously I wouldn't give up my source either start selling these on here. You could make a nice chunk of change selling these but first copywrite/ patent this. Good work man  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
> *



I doubt you can patent that due to the fact that your just modifing parts inside an existing product, probably would work if you start manufacturing the whole solenoid.


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## CoupeDTS (Nov 10, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Dec 9 2010, 03:35 PM~19284388
> *I doubt you can patent that due to the fact that your just modifing parts inside an existing product, probably would work if you start manufacturing the whole solenoid.
> *


lol yep

really good work done. 

You did the hard part, now eveyone will do the easier part and find the parts necessary to build theirs on their own. And then once somebody else finds how to build them and doesnt hesitate to recognize an opportunity to make a little money then they will be selling them before you do. Just sayin figure out how you want to handle this before somebody else hijacks your ideas and profit potential.


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## goinlow (Feb 15, 2004)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Dec 9 2010, 03:43 PM~19284065
> *Well done. Good to see some other guys posting something more worth while than a bunch of chromed parts. :thumbsup:
> *



X2


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## woeone23 (Feb 26, 2010)

Out here I can get some noids for 7bucks the other parts??? But I'm willing to pay 20 a noid and I need a six made asap pm me and let me know homie and kick ass for re inventing the wheel...


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## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by CoupeDTS_@Dec 9 2010, 01:02 PM~19284591
> *lol yep
> 
> really good work done.
> ...


x2, off course now that you posted everything up its going to be harder you could have bought batches of those cheap ass solenoids and upgraded them to sell, now all people need to figure out is were to get a washer and a spring which is probably pretty easy to get at a place that rebuild electrical components. but then again theyres alot of people who arent intrested in going through the trouble of doing it themselves,


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

nice work and thanks for the pics i will have to build some of these


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by CoupeDTS_@Dec 9 2010, 04:02 PM~19284591
> *lol yep
> 
> really good work done.
> ...


I don't see a reason why any of the hydraulic companies would want to make a blow proof solenoid. The more of them you burn up the more you have to buy, the more money thats being made. However putting together a upgrade plunger and disk assembly for the right price could make him a few bucks for a while.


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## -FROST- (Feb 7, 2007)

thanks for sharing..nice write up. :thumbsup:


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Dec 9 2010, 07:04 PM~19285616
> *I don't see a reason why any of the hydraulic companies would want to make a blow proof solenoid. The more of them you burn up the more you have to buy, the more money thats being made. However putting together a upgrade plunger and disk assembly for the right price could make him a few bucks for a while.
> *


fuck an a. I am going to figure out the super top secret ingredients and hook up the starter in my 51, the pile of accumax solenoids in my garage and the noids in the trucks when I deploy.


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## caprice75classic (Nov 12, 2007)

13.Here is the stock solenoid piston retraction spring(far left)which looks flimsy as hell,in the center you see the new retraction spring I cut down from what its original size shown on the far right((the New spring has to be cut down a line shorter than the original stock one since the new springs tension is alot stronger than the stock solenoid spring* the spring looks like from an RC car.*








My rc cars have the same looking springs.


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## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by caprice75classic_@Dec 9 2010, 03:56 PM~19286008
> *13.Here is the stock solenoid piston retraction spring(far left)which looks flimsy as hell,in the center you see the new retraction spring I cut down from what its original size shown on the far right((the New spring has to be cut down a line shorter than the original stock one since the new springs tension is alot stronger than the stock solenoid spring the spring looks like from an RC car.
> 
> 
> ...


i have 2$ shipped on your spring


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by woeone23_@Dec 9 2010, 02:59 PM~19285071
> *Out here I can get some noids for 7bucks the other parts??? But I'm willing to pay 20 a noid and I need a six made asap pm me and let me know homie and kick ass for re inventing the wheel...
> *


Over here its $15 at autozone for the duralast ones


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## charles85 (Apr 8, 2007)

:thumbsup: uffin:


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## woeone23 (Feb 26, 2010)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 9 2010, 04:09 PM~19286143
> *Over here its $15 at autozone for the duralast ones
> *




WTF!!....that's a lot hit up Ron at black magic here in vegas 7 buck all day bro


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## wickedstylo1965 (Jun 18, 2010)

> _Originally posted by STRICTLY1_@Nov 30 2010, 04:52 PM~19203337
> *ACCUMAX REGULAR SOLENOID
> 
> 
> ...


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by wickedstylo1965_@Dec 9 2010, 08:42 PM~19287526
> *
> *


those may be a thin of the past :0


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

Good work Bro & thanks for the info :thumbsup:


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## BlueheadedNigg (Dec 8, 2010)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 9 2010, 12:39 PM~19284022
> *You tell me.....How much is one  brand new 12 volt solenoid that was redesigned to handle 48 volts flawlessly worth to you??
> *


You tell me,how many would I need for my 3-pump set-up that has 9-Batt in it.

72V to front the pump & 36V to rear pumps??


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## DRUID (Oct 31, 2003)

Who's going to put it through 96 volts first?


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

springs look like hardware store springs.. the washer is what i dont know where i can get one.. hmmm..


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 10 2010, 11:38 AM~19291491
> *springs look like hardware store springs.. the washer is what i dont know where i can get one.. hmmm..
> *


hit up your local electrician shop. Pretty sure they have just about anything like that.


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## BlueheadedNigg (Dec 8, 2010)

> _Originally posted by Airborne_@Dec 10 2010, 12:29 PM~19293379
> *hit up your local electrician shop. Pretty sure they have just about anything like that.
> *


Thats what I'm doing. I just goga used 2 to my front pump,then one per rear-pump. that's should be good for my set-up


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by BlueheadedNigg_@Dec 11 2010, 01:46 PM~19300954
> *Thats what I'm doing. I just goga used 2 to my front pump,then one per rear-pump. that's should be good for my set-up
> *


tell me how it goes


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## miguel62 (Mar 21, 2007)

how much are you going to sell these for????


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

Thanks daniel for the great info. I'm gonna try 1 sumtime this weekend.


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by miguel62_@Dec 11 2010, 12:13 PM~19301356
> *how much are you going to sell these for????
> *


I Havent really thought about selling them,Just sharing knowledge for the love of lowriding.........the hardest part for thoes that are gonna try to follow the tutorial is finding the contact plate....I found a local machine shop that had brass/silver/zinc (mixed metal)thick sheets and I had them press me some out the size of the original copper plate in the solenoid.....Ive tried steel plates......straight brass plates....and they both fried the noid........the plate has to be a brass/silver/zinc (mixed metal not silver plated)..


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## Juice88 (Jan 19, 2010)

Good work :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 11 2010, 12:25 PM~19301408
> *I Havent really thought about selling them,Just sharing knowledge for the love of lowriding.........the hardest part for thoes that are gonna try to follow the tutorial is finding the contact plate....I found a local machine shop that had brass/silver/zinc (mixed metal)thick sheets and I had them press me some out the size of the original copper plate in the solenoid.....Ive tried steel plates......straight brass plates....and they both fried the noid........the plate has to be a brass/silver/zinc (mixed metal not silver plated)..
> *



maybe you could have them press more and sell some to us?


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## lowdeville (Jul 24, 2004)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 11 2010, 02:10 PM~19301635
> *maybe you could have them press more and sell some to us?
> *


No shit! :thumbsup:


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 11 2010, 03:10 PM~19301635
> *maybe you could have them press more and sell some to us?
> *


x2


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## lowdeville (Jul 24, 2004)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 11 2010, 01:25 PM~19301408
> *I Havent really thought about selling them,Just sharing knowledge for the love of lowriding.........the hardest part for thoes that are gonna try to follow the tutorial is finding the contact plate....I found a local machine shop that had brass/silver/zinc (mixed metal)thick sheets and I had them press me some out the size of the original copper plate in the solenoid.....Ive tried steel plates......straight brass plates....and they both fried the noid........the plate has to be a brass/silver/zinc (mixed metal not silver plated)..
> *


What's it called(the brass/silver/zinc mix)?????


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## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

Aight so I been watching this topic from the beginig and its cool how daniel u have been willing to share this great info knowing u could sale this shit for money, but anyways as soon as I could I got to searching for the parts knowing the dam washer is going to be next to impossible to find. But I did find the springs at ace hoardware for like 2 bucks they also had brass washers but they werw thinnier then wats already in the noids, but the chrome ones caught my eye there like 3 dollars and I put mine together this morning and two for a fellow rider. Seeing as how there was a lil show out here I got to testing hahahah all day till now I been hitting and no sticking,I will note the very first time I hit it it did stick but I guess I cut the spring too short cus I pulled it apart put a lil bigger spring and its been wrking since. Its a completley solid chrome washer, I'm not gnna sit here and say its gnna wrk the best but so far its aight ima pull it apart tomorrow and see how she looks. Oh by the way its only on 48v but just one noid so with that being said I dnt see y we can't experiment and find other more easliy availible metals to wrk I will keep yall posted on the chrome washer.


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 81cut_@Dec 11 2010, 04:26 PM~19302489
> *Aight so I been watching this topic from the beginig and its cool how daniel u have been willing to share this great info knowing u could sale this shit for money, but anyways as soon as I could I got to searching for the parts knowing the dam washer is going to be next to impossible to find. But I did find the springs at ace hoardware for like 2 bucks they also had brass washers but they werw thinnier then wats already in the noids, but the chrome ones caught my eye there like 3 dollars and I put mine together this morning and two for a fellow rider. Seeing as how there was a lil show out here I got to testing hahahah all day till now I been hitting and no sticking,I will note the very first time I hit it it did stick but I guess I cut the spring too short cus I pulled it apart put a lil bigger spring and its been wrking since. Its a completley solid chrome washer, I'm not gnna sit here and say its gnna wrk the best but so far its aight ima pull it apart tomorrow and see how she looks. Oh by the way its only on 48v but just one noid so with that being said I dnt see y we can't experiment and find other more easliy availible metals to wrk I will keep yall posted on the chrome washer.
> *


:thumbsup: run the abuse test on it to see if it can handle the amps .........I know steel and straight brass failed the test poorly........and chrome holds in heat so more than likely it will also fail, if put to the test....


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

daniel..... u gonna press us out some of those? i keep tryin to pm u homie... i only need 2 or 4


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 12 2010, 06:55 AM~19306181
> *daniel..... u gonna press us out some of those? i keep tryin to pm u homie... i only need 2 or 4
> *


I might just start selling the noids,just wondering what every one thinks is a fair price for them.....


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

how much time does it take you to build one+ materials $


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by MR.MEMO_@Dec 12 2010, 10:08 AM~19306825
> *how much time does it take you to build one+ materials $
> *


start to finish-16 minutes
spring is $2.55 for 2
machine shop labor for pressing contact plates $21.50(hr minimum)
price of 10 contact plates(silver/brass/zinc)-$36.90


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 12 2010, 10:25 AM~19306933
> *start to finish-16 minutes
> spring is $2.55 for 2
> machine shop labor for pressing contact plates $21.50(hr minimum)
> ...


so roughly about 5.00 in materials to rebuild one. then andd machine shop labor and your labor in the rebuil. I think if these are as flawless as you say they are. 20-25 a noid would be fair. that would be about 7 bucks profit on each one. if your buying the original at 10 a piece.


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

i would say $10.00 over your total cost


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## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

True I've always heard a chromed out motor tends to run a lot hotter then normal because the chrome doesn't release the heat aswell, but keep in mind chrome has a way higher melting point aswell. Chrome melts at around 3465 degrees, steel melts at around 2500 and brass at around 900, but I knw yall r mixing that zinc and what not in with it so that's probablly helping it a lot. But ima build up another one and put it on my homies setup he's got 5 batts and put it to the nose ant tell him to hit that shit hahah I can't do it on mine cuse I run ten batts and a fairly large pump head but I will keep testing for sure. Once again thanks daniel for all the info.


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

honestly.. i would say it loks like $6 in materials.. 

so why not just sell a package with the spring and washer for $10 per noid... the customer can do it themselves and can buy their own noids for $5-7 a piece (or use the ones they have now) and do their own labor.. atleast thats what i would wanna do.. you make $4 for puttin pieces in a bag and driving a lil.. but you can do taht 50 packages at a time probably in an hour + picking up time for the washers and springs.. so you could theoretically make $200 in an hour, help out some homies, and only have to do it once a week or so

there must be a place that sells a metal mix washer similar to taht.. hmmm... fastenal or someone gotta have em..


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

This is why im addicted to L.I.L. great info! thanks for sharing. ive always felt noids were the weakest link in a hydro system


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

ps did you try stainless steel?


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 12 2010, 12:18 PM~19307526
> *honestly.. i would say it loks like $6 in materials..
> 
> so why not just sell a package with the spring and washer for $10 per noid... the customer can do it themselves and can buy their own noids for $5-7 a piece (or use the ones they have now) and do their own labor.. atleast thats what i would wanna do.. you make $4 for puttin pieces in a bag and driving a lil.. but you can do taht 50 packages at a time probably in an hour + picking up time for the washers and springs.. so you could theoretically make $200 in an hour, help out some homies, and only have to do it once a week or so
> ...


A kit would be nice. I would rather order a spring and washer, rather than run around town buying a spring and having metal stamped


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 12 2010, 12:24 PM~19307559
> *ps did you try stainless steel?
> *


I was curious if thats what 81cut used instead of chrome. What about that 81cut? are you sure it was chrome and not stainless?


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Dec 9 2010, 12:43 PM~19284065
> *Well done. Good to see some other guys posting something more worth while than a bunch of chromed parts. :thumbsup:
> 
> *


Not to mention they want an arm and a leg for THESE so called triple plated parts.

This post and info is FREE


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by KingsWood_@Dec 12 2010, 01:42 PM~19308095
> *I was curious if thats what 81cut used instead of chrome. What about that 81cut? are you sure it was chrome and not stainless?
> *


I wad kinda curious when dude said CHROME washers too. I right away thought maybe he meant stainless but idk


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

I do have a question tho.
Are the Accumax's more durable than these Duralast ones? If so why not do this to an Accumax and get a more solid noid?

Reason why I ask is cuz I'm running solenoid blocks now and am thinking of running the Accumax's my setup came with but not till next spring/summer. Figured I'd do this upgrade this winter and have the noids ready to rock n roll by next season.


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

why wouldn't chrome work?


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Airborne_@Dec 12 2010, 04:54 PM~19309374
> *why wouldn't chrome work?
> *


It sounds like chrome might work if it has the higher heat/meltdown tolerance like homeboy stated before. Its still being tested I assume. If its actually chrome and not stainless. Cuz where would a person get a chrome washer or plate anyway :dunno:


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## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Dec 12 2010, 03:54 PM~19309372
> *I do have a question tho.
> Are the Accumax's more durable than these Duralast ones?  If so why not do this to an Accumax and get a more solid noid?
> 
> ...


yeah accumax will actually hold up for a while, the duralast ones are garbage


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## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

Yea it's a sloid chrome washer and the one I have goin has been wrking fine I'm barley gnna try another one out on a homies ride but anyways after farther research I have found that chrome isn't as good as a conductor as brass but a way higher melting point. I also thought about stainless steel be cause I was told by a buddy that stainless and dnt like to mix at all so I was like good you knw cus it should'nt stick but then looked it up and turns out stainless is a really poor cunductor I mean like big time, I have found out though that silver is one of the best conductors there is and reletivally cheap and I have found that there is a company on the net that makes a silver/nickel washer any size and any thickness, so if the chrome fails on to the silver. I will say though that silver melts at 975 or around there so a lil higher then brass and a way better conductor so its worth a shot. Either way I say come on fellas let's get out there and experiment wats the worst that's gnna happen u might burn a noid owell I done spent countless dollars on em anyways might as well burn em trying to solve a problem.


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## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

Oh and its spose to stainless and copper dnt like to mix


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## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

Oh and I just wanted to say to you Daniel, that by no way am I trying to jack ur thread or knock any of ur wrk. I'm just trying to think outside the box a little and find something that we might be able to get a little easier, I think its kinda rediculous how a lot of people r scared to try new stuff they just do the same thing over and over, U knw


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## LacN_Thru (Jun 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 12 2010, 01:18 PM~19307526
> *honestly.. i would say it loks like $6 in materials..
> 
> so why not just sell a package with the spring and washer for $10 per noid... the customer can do it themselves and can buy their own noids for $5-7 a piece (or use the ones they have now) and do their own labor.. atleast thats what i would wanna do.. you make $4 for puttin pieces in a bag and driving a lil.. but you can do taht 50 packages at a time probably in an hour + picking up time for the washers and springs.. so you could theoretically make $200 in an hour, help out some homies, and only have to do it once a week or so
> ...


I like this idea :thumbsup:


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

Ok.........so this morning I went to the same machine shop I got the plates done to get the piston shafts in the solenoid threaded so you do not have to slam a bolt to secure all the parts on the solenoid piston,Just tighten down the bolt to the allowed thread.......which makes it easier to change the contact plate if it ever decides to go out,which as of today the ones Ive been running for 2 weeks straight have not failed and they dont look like they will for a very long long time(after observing the contact plates that show hardly no wear and tear on both solenoid contact plates).....also I was thinking about selling these solenoids with 2 rebuilt kits if for any reason the buyer decides to push more volts thru them,they can rebuild them and keep playing.....let me know what yall think.


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

we are also gonna test, this afternoon, 2 of these noids on a piston pump at 72 volts up to 120 volts on a hopper to see what there limit is and if they can take the abuse at high voltages/amps.. :thumbsup:


----------



## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

Hmmmmmm sounds like a good idea, especially the rebuild kits


----------



## woeone23 (Feb 26, 2010)

> _Originally posted by DRUID_@Dec 10 2010, 06:36 AM~19291164
> *Who's going to put it through 96 volts first?
> *


That's what I'm tring to do...well 120 volts that's why I want a six pack made to see how it works out......yo daniel can you hook me up wit a six pack of your new noids??


----------



## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 13 2010, 11:17 AM~19315028
> *we are also gonna test, this afternoon, 2 of these noids on a piston pump at 72 volts up to 120 volts on a hopper to see what there limit is and if they can take the abuse at high voltages/amps.. :thumbsup:
> *


VIDEO PLEASE :happysad:


----------



## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by MUFASA_@Dec 13 2010, 11:53 AM~19315241
> *VIDEO PLEASE  :happysad:
> *


x2 :biggrin:


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

So a person would only need 2 noids per pump on a 72v setup? Is this right?


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

anybody decide to test stainless steel? i have a solenoid set up to test it but its a pretty bad conductor, it might not even be worth frying the solenoid what do you guys think?


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Dec 13 2010, 08:31 PM~19319301
> *anybody decide to test stainless steel? i have a solenoid set up to test it but its a pretty bad conductor, it might not even be worth frying the solenoid what do you guys think?
> *


Go for it homie. Then report back :biggrin:


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Dec 13 2010, 08:07 PM~19319790
> *Go for it homie.  Then report back :biggrin:
> *


k fuck it just needed some support ha ha, ill go set up 4 batts and let you guys know what happend


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

alright so i tested the solenoid with the upgraded spring and stainless steel washer, worked flawlessly didn't heat up at all. i went ahead and used the same strategy for testing that daniel used. did 30 seconds on heavy hitting then "cool down" for 15 seconds didn't even get warm though, i repeated that process i will post pictures up in a second,


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

alright so you can see the old copper washer has the plastic spacer melted to it, the spring on the bottom right came out of the autozone solenoid and the spring on the bottom left was in the accumax, on top you can see the stainless washer i used and the upgraded spring.










old springs on left new ones on right, the furthest left one is just another thicker one i bout i went with the one next to it just cut a turn and a half off of it.










here it is put together, i had to grind the washer smaller on the bench grinder because it was bigger than the ones in the solenoid, but the center hole was the exact same size, this picture was before i cut the spring a little. had to use the vice to get that nut on there











just proof i tested it....










off course still needs to be tested on the street


----------



## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

Forgive me for being a lil lost. The Bacardi usually takes effect around this time......but how exactly did u test the noid ?


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by MUFASA_@Dec 13 2010, 11:13 PM~19321433
> *Forgive me for being a lil lost. The Bacardi usually takes effect around this time......but how exactly did u test the noid ?
> *


battery ground is bolted on to the base of the noid with a quick disconect. that white wire was bolted on the 24V batt and i used that to tap onto the solenoid. make sense now, i did the same process daniel discribed in his original post ket tapin on to it for 30 secs then cool down and repeated it 3 times, like i said it dosent even get warm


----------



## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

good to know the stainless might work just as well.. i suspected it would.. and those are affordable and readily available... 

hmmm.. id like to see some street testing tho... 

it seems to me teh weakness in the long run is more the spring than the washer. with heat that spring will weaken and get sloppy.. then its only a matter of time before it gives in and the noid sticks... thats my opinion atleast... a strong spring alone would probably net you a noid that had double the life if not longer..


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Dec 13 2010, 09:52 PM~19320255
> *k fuck it just needed some support ha ha, ill go set up 4 batts and let you guys know what happend
> *


Ha ha ha
I'd like to get my hands on one of them kits tho


----------



## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

The only thing is when u tested it there was no kind of a load on the noid and without a load there is no arc at all, the arc and heat produced from the load is what kills ur noid the way u did it all ur doing is opening and closing it and its not gnna get hot like that.


----------



## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

The only thing is when u tested it there was no kind of a load on the noid and without a load there is no arc at all, the arc and heat produced from the load is what kills ur noid the way u did it all ur doing is opening and closing it and its not gnna get hot like that. Unless you actually had a motor hooked up to it?


----------



## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 81cut_@Dec 14 2010, 08:50 AM~19322615
> *The only thing is when u tested it there was no kind of a load on the noid and without a load there is no arc at all, the arc and heat produced from the load is what kills ur noid the way u did it all ur doing is opening and closing it and its not gnna get hot like that. Unless you actually had a motor hooked up to it?
> *


:yes: yep you could hook it to a motor and hook the motor up to a bare block (helps keep the motor from rolling around) and test it but i think it would still have a little more stress when its conected to a pump head


----------



## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 81cut_@Dec 14 2010, 07:50 AM~19322612
> *The only thing is when u tested it there was no kind of a load on the noid and without a load there is no arc at all, the arc and heat produced from the load is what kills ur noid the way u did it all ur doing is opening and closing it and its not gnna get hot like that.
> *


EXACTLY


----------



## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by droppen98_@Dec 14 2010, 09:31 AM~19323142
> *:yes: yep you could hook it to a motor and hook the motor up to a bare block (helps keep the motor from rolling around) and test it but i think it would still have a little more stress when its conected to a pump head
> *


Still no actual load like that.....it needs real world testing


----------



## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

> _Originally posted by MUFASA_@Dec 14 2010, 10:43 AM~19323224
> *Still no actual load like that.....it needs real world testing
> *


i do agree


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 14 2010, 07:10 AM~19322402
> *good to know the stainless might work just as well.. i suspected it would.. and those are affordable and readily available...
> 
> hmmm.. id like to see some street testing tho...
> ...


X2 on the spring theory. That makes a lot of sense. I'd also like to see some street tests as well at high voltage tho


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Wasn't Daniel or 81 Cut supposed to test the noids on a hopper at high voltage? Couldn't remember who exactly it was but, I guess they're still being tested. I figure it'll take at least a week minimum with heavy abuse.


----------



## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Dec 14 2010, 11:22 AM~19323945
> *Wasn't Daniel or 81 Cut supposed to test the noids on a hopper at high voltage?  Couldn't remember who exactly it was but, I guess they're still being tested.  I figure it'll take at least a week minimum with heavy abuse.
> *



Yes something along those lines was said. I would like to see a video. 2 noids on 96v. If I wasn't so lazy and behind on my own shit i'd try it out myself :happysad:


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

i got it, so do you guys suggest me hooking it up to a pump to test it, my cars all torn apart right now thats why i couldnt really test it. i dont see why it wont work though the melting point of stainless steal is alot higher than any of the materials in the washers daniel used. i dont know how much of a diffrence the conductivity of the materials would be though.


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 14 2010, 06:10 AM~19322402
> *good to know the stainless might work just as well.. i suspected it would.. and those are affordable and readily available...
> 
> hmmm.. id like to see some street testing tho...
> ...


that seems to be the biggest issue just the spring really, i tore some old solenoids and they had started to melt the copper, by what i reaserched all the materials in the washers daniel is using have a lower melting point then copper, i dont know if mixing those metals together makes the washer take more heat but by themseleves they melt in less heat than copper and copper is also more conductive then 75% of the materials in the washer except for silver i dont know if the 15% silver will make up for the other less cunductive materials, so i dont see why a thicker copper washer cant be used just with a better spring i think the results would be the same.


----------



## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

Steel failed extremely bad under a load in testing,I fried the noid first 30 seconds....


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 14 2010, 11:55 AM~19324571
> *Steel failed extremely bad under a load in testing,I fried the noid first 30 seconds....
> *


did you test it in your car? or how did you test it so i can try this thing out properly


----------



## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Dec 14 2010, 01:00 PM~19324597
> *did you test it in your car? or how did you test it so i can try this thing out properly
> *


yes i tested it along with other metals,.............run 6 batteries(fully charged) wired to 48 volts(3 in a series and 3 parrallel), hit the switch like your hopping the car for 30 seconds take a 15 second cool down in between for a total of 2 minutes......under a load the steel cannot transfer the heat fast enough ,it ends up welding itself to the side terminals in the noid...


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 14 2010, 12:04 PM~19324625
> *yes i tested it along with other metals,.............run 6 batteries(fully charged) wired to 48 volts(3 in a series and 3 parrallel), hit the switch like your hopping the car for 30 seconds take a 15 second cool down in between for a total of 2 minutes......under a load the steel cannot transfer the heat fast enough ,it ends up welding itself to the side terminals in the noid...
> *


i only have 4 batts  but they are fully charged. what im missing is how im supposed to put it under load, run it to a block with a motor hooked up to it????


----------



## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Dec 14 2010, 01:07 PM~19324640
> *i only have 4 batts  but they are fully charged. what im missing is how im supposed to put it under load, run it to a block with a motor hooked up to it????
> *


no it has to be installed in a vehicle,the load is created under the weight of the vehicle,the heaver the vehicle the more amp load the noid has to carry..


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 14 2010, 12:09 PM~19324653
> *no it has to be installed in a vehicle,the load is created under the weight of the vehicle,the heaver the vehicle the more load the noid has to carry..
> *


well my body is on a stand my frames torn to peices, ill fry this when it gets back together then :biggrin:


----------



## 81cut (Jul 1, 2009)

Exactly wats actually killinmg the. Noids is the arc that jumps from the copper post to the washer and the extream heat that's wat melts em and essentially welds em together. Di you knw an electrical arc can reach temperatures of 35,000 degrees, way higher voltages but u get the point way hot. Now wat I've determind is that the materials daniels is useing he's not raising the melting point but simply using material that has way less resistance. Now when the stock washer is in place it wrks fine up until the point the zinc coating starts to ware off revealing the less conductive material then heating and melting. I did find out though after more research that in the electrical world a lot of times they use silver because even after arc silver is still very conductive, but still messing with many options even gnna try aluminium, I've been tearing these dam things apart all weekend hahah and week.


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

some one should test this stainless steel one, id ship it out but everything was cheap to do so not really worth shipping out, i figure if your too lazy to build it and i send it your gonna be to lazy to go put it in your ride to try. id be interested in seeing how a solenoid would do with just a better spring


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

double :angry:


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

I know! Make like 4 of these noids and send them to Mufasa and have him test them bad boys out and make a vid at the same time :biggrin:

What you think Mufasa


----------



## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Dec 14 2010, 03:15 PM~19325668
> *I know!  Make like 4 of these noids and send them to Mufasa and have him test them bad boys out and make a vid at the same time :biggrin:
> 
> What you think Mufasa
> *


U TRIPPN, HAVE U SEEN MY TRUNK ????? I DONT LIKE TRUNK FIRES !! :biggrin:


----------



## ROCK OUT (Jan 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by MUFASA_@Dec 14 2010, 02:58 PM~19325938
> *U TRIPPN, HAVE U SEEN MY TRUNK ????? I DONT LIKE TRUNK FIRES !! :biggrin:
> *


ha ha seriously, i didn't know Daniel was testing them in his car i was under the impression he bench tested it some how id be nervous trying it in my car. you'd have to be testing with one hand on the disconnect. there's gotta be a way to bench test these, any ideas?


----------



## MUFASA (Aug 16, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LOCO 78_@Dec 14 2010, 04:04 PM~19325980
> *ha ha seriously, i didn't know Daniel was testing them in his car i was under the impression he bench tested it some how id be nervous trying it in my car. you'd have to be testing with one hand on the disconnect. there's gotta be a way to bench test these, any ideas?
> *


i wouldnt care if it wasnt for my mirrors and painted batts........where i have my noids, if they catch fire it fucks up a lot of shit


----------



## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)




----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by MUFASA_@Dec 14 2010, 03:58 PM~19325938
> *U TRIPPN, HAVE U SEEN MY TRUNK ????? I DONT LIKE TRUNK FIRES !! :biggrin:
> *


Ha ha ha, yea maybe that wasn't thought out all the way 

I was just thinking of all the vids you have out there that you wouldn't mind trying these noids out. Never thought of them catching fire right away :twak:


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Any test results yet? ANYONE


----------



## woeone23 (Feb 26, 2010)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 13 2010, 10:17 AM~19315028
> *we are also gonna test, this afternoon, 2 of these noids on a piston pump at 72 volts up to 120 volts on a hopper to see what there limit is and if they can take the abuse at high voltages/amps.. :thumbsup:
> *


So any out come on this yet


----------



## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

what up daniel? any new input?


----------



## RICH-E-RICH (Mar 20, 2010)

:biggrin: just buy new ones?


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by RICH-E-RICH_@Dec 18 2010, 04:01 AM~19359192
> *
> :biggrin: just buy new ones?
> *


You're missing the whole idea. If this design works, these will last longer than any new one would.


----------



## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Dec 17 2010, 08:00 PM~19355519
> *Any test results yet?  ANYONE
> *



:dunno:


----------



## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

Test results-2 solenoids @ 108 volts(9 batteries) with a piston pump performed perfectly with no problems at all..
At 120 volts the noids started to warm up and the plastic casing started to smoke but the noids did not burn up.......cool down for 1 minute and hopped it again the noid starts to smoke again but did not burn up. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: (Testing time and hits of the switch)10 hits of the switch with 1 minute cool downs in between for 4 cycles of testing time....Tore apart the noids after testing to see if the contact plates had aquired any damage and there was none.yesterday I was at the machine shop that made my first run of contact plates for the noids and I had them make me some other new ones that are twice as thick as the first ones...also bought some new 12 volt solenoids that have a metal casing instead of plastic and Im gonna try them again at 120 Volts........the only flaw I see in the plastic ones is the casing....but I bet the metal casing noids with new spring and twice the thickness in contact plate will make it blow proof at 120 volts...... :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

good work man


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

:wow: sounds like your work and thoughts might pay off. So Far So Good :thumbsup:


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 19 2010, 01:25 PM~19367988
> *Test results-2 solenoids @ 108 volts(9 batteries) with a piston pump performed perfectly with no problems at all..
> At 120 volts the noids started to warm up and the plastic casing started to smoke but the noids did not burn up.......cool down for 1 minute and hopped it again the noid starts to smoke again but did not burn up. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: (Testing time and hits of the switch)10 hits of the switch with 1 minute cool downs in between for 4 cycles of testing time....Tore apart the noids after testing to see if the contact plates had aquired any damage and there was none.yesterday I was at the machine shop that made my first run of contact plates for the noids and I had them make me some other new ones that are twice as thick as the first ones...also bought some new 12 volt solenoids that have a metal casing instead of plastic and Im gonna try them again at 120 Volts........the only flaw I see in the plastic ones is the casing....but I bet the metal casing noids with new spring and twice the thickness in contact plate will make it blow proof at 120 volts...... :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
> *


good news homie.. damn, i just want 2 to work at 48vts so i never have to replace em or worry about em again LOL

sell us the parts!


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Yes so when these things are perfected, you're gonna be selling the kits for them, right?


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Dec 19 2010, 03:24 PM~19368673
> *Yes so when these things are perfected, you're gonna be selling the kits for them, right?
> *


x2 paypal request please :biggrin:


----------



## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by touchdowntodd_@Dec 19 2010, 04:17 PM~19368295
> *good news homie.. damn, i just want 2 to work at 48vts so i never have to replace em or worry about em again LOL
> 
> sell us the parts!
> *



x 2 :biggrin:


----------



## Classic Customs (Oct 31, 2008)

> _Originally posted by MUFASA_@Dec 14 2010, 03:58 PM~19325938
> *U TRIPPN, HAVE U SEEN MY TRUNK ????? I DONT LIKE TRUNK FIRES !! :biggrin:
> *


:cheesy: x2. 


you guys burning shit up at 48 volts. that should NEVER happen. check your grounds and batteries


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Yea I'm interested in this topic because I'm thinking of doing without my solenoid blocks and doing just regular noids, although my blocks haven't given me any issues so far but I don't wanna give them that chance. Plus that if this theory works then I'd only have to run 2 noids per pump at 72v


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

Interesting stuff here. I'm definately curious on how well the stainless washer does and the double thick plates daniel is having made.


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)




----------



## 214monte (Jun 25, 2006)




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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)




----------



## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

do you think drilling "vent" holes in the metal casing would help it keep cooler?


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## ENVIUS (Aug 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by droppen98_@Dec 28 2010, 09:37 AM~19438572
> *do you think drilling "vent" holes in the metal casing would help it keep cooler?
> *


vent holes are bad - they = fire lol
Sparks will fly out of them...


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## ENVIUS (Aug 25, 2004)

over all this is an awesome idea. I stopped using the cheapy noids because of the problems this seems to resolve. Ive been using the HD noids for years now with only limited issues due to my own faults...
this is the same concept as the HD noids which are rebuildable as well.......only this idea is better due to the size and the availability of the noids them selfs and the cost. HD noids run around 60+ each and you have to always call somewhere to order them if your not near a place that sells them - So if they can be reliable and made and sold for half that then they would be an instant hit.


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Yea I can already see the demand on these noids or even just the kits. I can't wait till the final test results tho. Let's keep our fingers crossed :x:


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## casper38 (Aug 17, 2007)

hno: :x:


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

Update-Just waiting on the machine shop to finish the contact plates,they said hopefully by this weds they will be ready to be picked up... :thumbsup:


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 28 2010, 05:32 PM~19442627
> *Update-Just waiting on the machine shop to finish the contact plates,they said hopefully by this weds they will be ready to be picked up... :thumbsup:
> *


Then what?


----------



## casper38 (Aug 17, 2007)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 28 2010, 07:32 PM~19442627
> *Update-Just waiting on the machine shop to finish the contact plates,they said hopefully by this weds they will be ready to be picked up... :thumbsup:
> *


 :0 paypal ready :thumbsup:


----------



## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 28 2010, 05:32 PM~19442627
> *Update-Just waiting on the machine shop to finish the contact plates,they said hopefully by this weds they will be ready to be picked up... :thumbsup:
> *



let us know brotha


----------



## Jimmy C (Oct 9, 2007)

I don't frequent this site like I used to, only person I have been intouch w/ has been "Classic Customs" Tommy. I do cruise along and check out topics that seem worth reading, and this one is worth the time. Although it's simple, Danny may have come up w/ the right combo of material to make it work. 

My hat is off to you, Danny, f/ doing something that no one else has even mentioned let alone trying to perfect. How about more of you "Lowriders" coming up w/ some new ideas. New Ideas are what the "Lowriding" community needs more of. In the past couple of years, I haven't seen too awful much change in the field, and KNOWING that there are alot of super-smart people in the community, I hope I see more new ideas in this new year, 2011. 

LONG LIVE the LOWRIDING LifeStyle! It's not a "car-craz," it's a way of life.


----------



## miguel62 (Mar 21, 2007)

LMK when they are ready...im ready to buy!! :cheesy:


----------



## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)




----------



## 5leepy417Lowrider (Jun 8, 2010)

> _Originally posted by miguel62_@Dec 30 2010, 08:13 AM~19457061
> *LMK when they are ready...im ready to buy!! :cheesy:
> *



X2 :biggrin:


----------



## hoppin92 (Jul 5, 2007)

ANY UPDATES........................  ..............................GO WORK HOMIES............................


----------



## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by hoppin92_@Jan 2 2011, 06:46 PM~19484922
> *ANY UPDATES........................  ..............................GO WORK HOMIES............................
> *


update: got the contact plates,just havent had the time to do it...hopefully by this comming weekend...


----------



## 123me (Jan 3, 2011)

Sweet,I will be trying this out this week for sure... :thumbsup:


----------



## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Jan 2 2011, 09:56 PM~19486878
> *update: got the contact plates,just havent had the time to do it...hopefully by this comming weekend...
> *


So I take it the components you changed out held up to the test?


----------



## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)




----------



## casper38 (Aug 17, 2007)

ttt


----------



## LOCOTORO (Apr 12, 2008)

YO WHAT UP DAN . nice work ready to order . need 4 shipped to 07721 asap . pay pay ready please pm me with price thanks ralph..


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## OutHopeU (Jan 21, 2011)

any updateds yet?? :cheesy:


----------



## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

Good work and nice to see things being tried out.

for the washer you could try using 'HC copper' or (High Current) as its designed to do exactly what you're doing here, and its cheap(ish) You can buy it in bar form of the correct diameter and drill the center out to fit the solenoid plunger and slice it to the thickness you require and being copper its easy to silver plate if a harder wearing surface is required ? and will resist corrosion.


----------



## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

:wow:


----------



## OutHopeU (Jan 21, 2011)

> _Originally posted by OutHopeU_@Jan 23 2011, 11:42 PM~19679903
> *any updateds yet??  :cheesy:
> *


 :uh:


----------



## SPL1T~PERSONAL1TY (Aug 18, 2008)

great thread really want to try this out when i finish my car  

thanks daniel


----------



## Still Hated (May 15, 2005)

So far so good............. :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## Still Hated (May 15, 2005)

Took a look on Accumax's site.........they make noids for alot of different companies.......you can cross referencs part #'s........................   





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10-FO103 (12V,4-Terminal)
B6AZ-11450A, C4AF-11450A, C6AF-11450A
C7AF-11450A, C9AF-11450A, D2AF-11450A
D9AZ-11450A, SW3, SW246, SW904
Prestolite 15-3F, 15-394, 15-406, 15-411, 15-486
SAS-4217Y, SAZ-4201N, SAZ-4201BBY

Accumax 10A-F1025, 10A-F1025P, 
7-1025
66-200
12881

Lester Nos:
3115, 3117, 3125, 3124, 3128, 3131, 3132, 
3133, 3135, 3148, 3149, 3151, 3207, 3208, 
3209

Dimensions:
Contact Term: 5/16"-24
Switch Term : #10-32 Post
Ignition Term : #10-32 Post

Components:

Note:
1. Grounded Base
2. Heavy Duty
3. 10A-F1025P:Copper Contact



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10-FO103-24 (24V,4-Terminal)
Dimensions:
Contact Term: 5/16"-24
Switch Term : #10-32 Post
Ignition Term : #10-32 Post

Components:

Note:
1. Grounded Base
2. 24V Version of 10-FO103


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

10-FO107 (12V,4-Terminal)
D8DF-11450AA, D8DZ-11450A, D8DZ-11450B
D8VY-11450AA, SW-1507, SW1162, 

7-1031
12888

Lester Nos:

Dimensions:
Contact Term: 5/16"-24
Switch Term : #10-32 Post
Ignition Term : #8-32 Post
With Adaptor Ring

Components:

Note:
1. Grounded Base
2. Vented Cap


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## THEBOXX (Oct 10, 2007)

would like to get 4 contact plates let me know if you sell them...thanks


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## Dysfunctional73 (Dec 10, 2003)

aka fuck this topic


----------



## OutHopeU (Jan 21, 2011)

> _Originally posted by OutHopeU_@Jan 27 2011, 10:17 PM~19718932
> *:uh:
> *


x3 :wow:


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## REV. chuck (Jun 14, 2003)

this shit dont even work 


some pictures of a torn down solenoid and you guys are all on his nuts


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by REV. chuck_@Feb 2 2011, 10:37 PM~19773593
> *this shit dont even work
> some pictures of a torn down solenoid and you guys are all on his nuts
> *


:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: 
You do have a point 
I haven't seen a post from Daniel in a while on this topic 

What's really going on :dunno:


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

And he wont post a video  I think he did this shit intentionally for fun :0


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## .TODD (Oct 18, 2008)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Dec 9 2010, 11:12 AM~19283360
> *"The Reinvention Of The 12 Volt Solenoid" Tutorial by Daniel Ducati
> 
> Ive tested 2 of theses solenoids in my low-low for almost 2 weeks(1 noid per pump,running 2 pumps and 4 dumps)in my set up,running 48 volts with 6 batteries(3 series,3 parrallel).and they have not even fliched!
> ...



awsome work now get crakin on some SACO'S :biggrin:


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Jimmy C_@Dec 29 2010, 01:14 PM~19448988
> *I don't frequent this site like I used to, only person I have been intouch w/ has been "Classic Customs" Tommy.  I do cruise along and check out topics that seem worth reading, and this one is worth the time.  Although it's simple, Danny may have come up w/ the right combo of material to make it work.
> 
> My hat is off to you, Danny, f/ doing something that no one else has even mentioned let alone trying to perfect.  How about more of you "Lowriders" coming up w/ some new ideas.  New Ideas are what the "Lowriding" community needs more of.  In the past couple of years, I haven't seen too awful much change in the field, and KNOWING that there are alot of super-smart people in the community, I hope I see more new ideas in this new year, 2011.
> ...



well said & I think Ill have to qoute your words in my sig


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## pitbull_432 (Jan 25, 2007)

Would really like to see a vid. Homie


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## TWEEDY (Apr 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by REV. chuck+Feb 3 2011, 12:37 AM~19773593-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...



A guy here in town built one off of this tutorial and ran just one noid to 48 & played with the setup non stop with no problems. I have yet to do it myself but witnessed him do it and it seemed to work good.


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## OutHopeU (Jan 21, 2011)

> _Originally posted by TWEEDY_@Feb 8 2011, 10:11 AM~19817713
> *A guy here in town built one off of this tutorial and ran just one noid to 48 & played with the setup non stop with no problems. I have yet to do it myself but witnessed him do it and it seemed to work good.
> *


So you say it works good?


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by TWEEDY_@Feb 8 2011, 12:11 PM~19817713
> *A guy here in town built one off of this tutorial and ran just one noid to 48 & played with the setup non stop with no problems. I have yet to do it myself but witnessed him do it and it seemed to work good.
> *



:0


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

I was under the impression that these kits were gonna be available for sale. Was I wrong?


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Feb 8 2011, 03:11 PM~19819018
> *I was under the impression that these kits were gonna be available for sale.  Was I wrong?
> *



:yessad:


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## TWEEDY (Apr 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by OutHopeU_@Feb 8 2011, 01:44 PM~19818352
> *So you say it works good?
> *


Yea. Worked real good, I'm still gonna run three just to be on the safer side when I put my new ones in.


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## capriceman75 (Nov 26, 2002)

> _Originally posted by pitbull_432_@Feb 8 2011, 09:05 AM~19816611
> *Would really like to see a vid. Homie
> *


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: 
he was suposed to have that long time ago


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## .TODD (Oct 18, 2008)

> _Originally posted by MUFASA_@Dec 14 2010, 09:43 AM~19323224
> *Still no actual load like that.....it needs real world testing
> *



have them mufasa tested


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## HYDRO'sOnly (Feb 10, 2011)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Feb 8 2011, 01:11 PM~19819018
> *I was under the impression that these kits were gonna be available for sale.  Was I wrong?
> *


x2


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

damn he gave full run down of parts and what to do...and yall complaining about vids. Yall want him to hold ya dic while u piss too?


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

oo


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

Most of the folks that are bitching about a vid are the same folks that dont have a hydraulic setup installed in there low-low in the first place(like chuck and capriceman75) and will never try to do this.....and I said Most not all so dont twist my words.....I have been using the same 2 noids in my setup since I first did it and there still going strong(and I hit the switches every day not just a weekend rider,I ride 24/7)...I already gave you all the formula(which I see now I should of just kept it to myself for thoes that are crying about it).....but unlike most I love to lowride and wont hesitate to educate another brother out without charging them......so that being said quit being lazy and follow the tutorial and just build one......


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## .TODD (Oct 18, 2008)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Feb 11 2011, 09:15 AM~19843881
> *Most of the folks that are bitching about a vid are the same folks that dont have a hydraulic setup installed in there low-low in the first place(like chuck and capriceman75) and will never try to do this.....and I said Most not all so dont twist my words.....I have been using the same 2 noids in my setup since I first did it and there still going strong(and I hit the switches every day not just a weekend rider,I ride 24/7)...I already gave you all the formula(which I see now I should of just kept it to myself for thoes that are crying about it).....but unlike most I love to lowride and wont hesitate to educate another brother out without charging them......so that being said quit being lazy and follow the tutorial and just build one......
> *



well said now get crackin on them SACOS FOOL :biggrin:


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

T
T
T


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## capriceman75 (Nov 26, 2002)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Feb 11 2011, 11:15 AM~19843881
> *Most of the folks that are bitching about a vid are the same folks that dont have a hydraulic setup installed in there low-low in the first place(like chuck and capriceman75) and will never try to do this
> *


in off topic we made a deal in a topic YOU started about me and i said i'll post pics of my ride if you post a video of this.i posted pics of my ride and you didnt post video.really no big deal cause we know you was'nt gonna do it but you know we b.s each other in o.t and hate that you took it so serious by tryna call me out when my ride is being built.chuck on other hand is a attention whore who starts shit and we all know he dont give a shit about anything lowrider related and he had a gay ass bright yellow mini truck,what does that tell you him :wow:


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## capriceman75 (Nov 26, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BRAVO_@Feb 11 2011, 09:06 AM~19843280
> *damn he gave full run down of parts and what to do...and yall complaining about vids.  Yall want him to hold ya dic while u piss too?
> *


i was fucken wit him on the o.t shit he posted and i careless if he do or dont make a video,what he posted is good enough.also not everybody can follow pic directions either but can video wise on fixing tons of other things you have to take apart and put together cause the video show more then a pic does.


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## Schimel750 (Sep 5, 2003)

Wow. Just wow. Why a video so bad. I'll hit my switches and say they're in there and who's the wiser. I'm a union electrician by trade local 175 and all the science behind is very correct. It's simple power transition. Bigger is almost always better. Low resistance equals, low heat. And I've followed the whole post just today. He never once said anything was actually for sale.


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## REV. chuck (Jun 14, 2003)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Feb 11 2011, 10:15 AM~19843881
> *Most of the folks that are bitching about a vid are the same folks that dont have a hydraulic setup installed in there low-low in the first place(like chuck and capriceman75) and will never try to do this.....and I said Most not all so dont twist my words.....I have been using the same 2 noids in my setup since I first did it and there still going strong(and I hit the switches every day not just a weekend rider,I ride 24/7)...I already gave you all the formula(which I see now I should of just kept it to myself for thoes that are crying about it).....but unlike most I love to lowride and wont hesitate to educate another brother out without charging them......so that being said quit being lazy and follow the tutorial and just build one......
> *



aaaw someone got they wittle feelings hurt  


i have 2 pumps btw


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## Ked O.P. (May 4, 2009)

:biggrin: Thanks Daniel! I learned from this & will build a few of these when I have time...:thumbsup:


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## 84Joe (Nov 22, 2009)

NICE STEP BY STEP DANIEL,WILL BE TRYING THIS WITH A FEW BURNED ONES I GOT JUST TO GET IT RIGHT BEFORE I DO A GOOD ONE :biggrin: :thumbsup:


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)




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## down79 (Oct 9, 2007)

wish i could see some example of them working. i am going to get the parts and try it..its worth the try :thumbsup:


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## LowCO_David_970 (Sep 20, 2009)

:0 :0 :0 :0 

Awesome work!!


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## 2 83s (Jun 19, 2010)

:biggrin:


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## Ahhwataday (Jun 7, 2009)

uffin:


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## Guest (Mar 1, 2011)

.......


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

:h5:


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## Clutch100 (Jul 16, 2008)

:biggrin:


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)




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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

ttt


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LOWASME_@Apr 11 2011, 01:05 AM~20308307
> *ttt
> *


 :thumbsup:


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## SPOOK82 (Dec 9, 2010)

GREAT TOPIC 
JUST STARTED TO TAKE APART ACOUPLE OLD NOIDS JUST NEED TO RUN TO THE STORE AND BUY THE NEW MATERIALS NEEDED


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

so whats up with this has any one tried it?


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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

> _Originally posted by droppen98_@Apr 19 2011, 04:29 PM~20375363
> *so whats up with this has any one tried it?
> *


x2??


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by droppen98_@Apr 19 2011, 06:29 PM~20375363
> *so whats up with this has any one tried it?
> *



x3


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## SPOOK82 (Dec 9, 2010)

TTT


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## SPOOK82 (Dec 9, 2010)

TOOK SOME OF MY BURNT UP NOIDS APART TO SEE HOW HARD IT WOULD BE AND IT WAS KOO














SO I STARTED RE BUILDING SOME EXTRA GOOD NOIDS I HAVE TO CARRY AS BACK UPS


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## DamnGina (May 6, 2010)

> _Originally posted by SPOOK82_@May 5 2011, 10:07 PM~20494630
> *TOOK SOME OF MY BURNT UP NOIDS APART TO SEE HOW HARD IT WOULD BE AND IT WAS KOO
> 
> 
> ...


wutz the purpose of this again??if it works let me know


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

:uh:


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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

any updates about this guys??


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## SPOOK82 (Dec 9, 2010)

> _Originally posted by DamnGina_@May 5 2011, 10:14 PM~20494690
> *wutz the purpose of this again??if it works let me know
> *


YOUR REPLACING ALL THE WASHERS AND SPRINGS BECAUSE THE FACTORY ONES ARE WEAK AND WEAR DOWN FAST SO YOUR NOID GETS STUCK.
BETTER HARDWEAR GIVES A BETTER CONTACT AND LAST LONGER 
OR AT LEAST THATS WAT I UNDERSTOOD READING THIS TOPIC AND DOING IT


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

would wrapping the center (the coil of coper wire) with thicker wire help?


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## muffin_man (Oct 25, 2006)




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## lamont (Sep 23, 2004)

i been reading this topic to the last page,gonna try this out.nice work to the poster who came up with this :biggrin:


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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

> _Originally posted by lamont_@May 9 2011, 12:47 AM~20512369
> *i been reading this topic to the last page,gonna try this out.nice work to the poster who came up with this :biggrin:
> *


Post up pics & let know how it gos


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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LOWASME_@May 11 2011, 05:56 PM~20532586
> *Post up pics & let know how it gos
> *


x2


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## Boricua Customs (Oct 3, 2005)

> _Originally posted by LOWASME_@May 12 2011, 06:57 PM~20540150
> *x2
> *



x3


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

So where can I find some washers containing the elements mentioned in this tutorial? I have some Accumax's I'd like to try this on. Or would it be wiser if I just bought a cheapie for the initial upgrade?


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## C-ROW (Jan 26, 2008)

Gud topic nice info , 
Question bout assembly wats between washer n the nut u hammer on ????
Thanks in advance


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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

SO HAS ANY-ONE GOT ANY UPDATES ON THIS YET?


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

I'd still like to find out where I can get the supplies from.


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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

yea


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## LOWASME (Aug 5, 2006)

:inout:


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Back from the dead! So was a stainless steel washer, the washer mostly used since the actual brass/zinc/silver washers are a bit harder to find?


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

My boy has zip-tied solenoids


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

:nicoderm:


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

clairfbeeIII said:


> My boy has zip-tied solenoids


 What


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

give a man a fish and he will eat that day,show a man how to fish he can eat for a life time....same concept apply's to this topic......I had to get washers made at a small local machine shop for this to work......Ive tried all of the store bought shelf shit and it doesnt work......Im still using the first 2 noids Ive built...the key to get yours to work is the washers..


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

wannabelowrider said:


> What


He is cheap and would rebuild them..instead of drilling out the rivets and bolting back together he had some zipties...really ghetto


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

clairfbeeIII said:


> He is cheap and would rebuild them..instead of drilling out the rivets and bolting back together he had some zipties...really ghetto


 Damn thats crazy


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

DanielDucati said:


> give a man a fish and he will eat that day,show a man how to fish he can eat for a life time....same concept apply's to this topic......I had to get washers made at a small local machine shop for this to work......Ive tried all of the store bought shelf shit and it doesnt work......Im still using the first 2 noids Ive built...the key to get yours to work is the washers..


Ok i know a guy who works at a machine shop. I just hope he knows of the elements that are in the metal.


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

I spoke to a friend of mine who is an electrician and he said it doesnt matter about the volts that are going through the noids, its the amps we put through the noids that makes them stick and burn up. Is this true?


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Anyone know of the priciples of bronze silicon? Im gonna do some research but was hoping there is a person on here who knows his metals. A buddy of mine said this metal has a high continuity and heat resistance,but idk.


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## Mario Loco (Jul 7, 2011)

:thumbsup:


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## KingDavid (Sep 2, 2010)

I was working on doing something like this last year. The idea is the arc created when the solenoid tries to break contact focuses the heat and power in a tiny spot that melts the washer and the posts and pulls them together. Esentially welding them together. I was gonna upgrade the spring for more breaking force and a thicker copper washer. On top of that I was gonna use some noncuductive gel inside the noid so when it broke contact the gel would keep it from arcing at all. The transformers on power poles are filled with this to keep power from jumping from the internals to the casing. I ran this idea past an electrical engineer and he said that this design would take more power than the batteries could produce that you could possibly fit in your trunk. The problem is the same as the everyone elses with this washer the op is using, where do I get it? The only places I've found this gel/liquid is from manufacturers that sell it in quantities I cant afford or ever use. I also had the idea of making my own from scratch using a large switching diode in a box with some other components because this type of switch is used on circut boards and has no contacts so esentialy couldnt fry. It just had to be tailored to the amperage. Again hard to find. They do make them but hard to source and probably have to be purchased in large quantities.

Long story short, the only way to completely bullet proof this idea is the non or anti conductive gel/liquid. If any riders out there know how to get a hold of this stuff in smaller quantities or can afford a larger amount to sell to others we could have a solenoid that will outlive our cars or setups.


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Nobody would wanna go through that much trouble to perfect the operation of noids. theyd just keep replacing them as needed. Its hard to find someone with the right knowledge of metal elements where i live. unless i dont know the right people, so maybe i'll just hold off for a while.


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## KingDavid (Sep 2, 2010)

It is a lot of trouble, but very lucrative for the person who does it and patents it. It was just an idea that I had but dont have the recources to accomplish. I understand that people would rather just replace as needed but when we can improve it there is no reason to risk your whole ride on a $7 noid. Its worth it to me. Theres quite a few companies that sell high voltage solenoids but no one knows how to find them because they arent called solenoids. the noids we use arent solenoids. a noid is the part inside the contactor we use that moves the "washer". If you look up "high voltage contactor" there are a few companies that sell contactors that will handle up to 700v dc wich we could never put through it. They are expensive but when you have a ride with 100k invested in, a 600 dollar contactor is a good insurance investment. Not everyone has a significant amount of $ invested like this so it may not be worth it. But if a $600 contactor could save your $2k ride its still a smart investment.


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## Still Hated (May 15, 2005)

Well,,,,,.....i went to a local machine shop.....they can get the material to make the washers......but....after talking to the guy.....he went on about how much he pays the guy in the shop....the time to set up the punch and cost of material.......lets just say that what he wanted to charge for 2 dozen washers i can order 2 cases of noids.........and he wouldnt budge.....so now back to looking.......:facepalm:


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

Still Hated said:


> Well,,,,,.....i went to a local machine shop.....they can get the material to make the washers......but....after talking to the guy.....he went on about how much he pays the guy in the shop....the time to set up the punch and cost of material.......lets just say that what he wanted to charge for 2 dozen washers i can order 2 cases of noids.........and he wouldnt budge.....so now back to looking.......:facepalm:


let us know bro


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## I HOPP (Sep 13, 2011)

Hey everybody, all I gonna say is That shit WORKS! Thanks Daniel!


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## baggedout81 (Jan 5, 2009)

:sprint:


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## charles85 (Apr 8, 2007)

Blast from the past shit right here ......!!


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## aphustle (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks buddy..

Wasn't that long Ago...

&


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

This should be in a how to section or a stickied topic


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

DanielDucati said:


> "The Reinvention Of The 12 Volt Solenoid" Tutorial by Daniel Ducati
> Ive tested 2 of theses solenoids in my low-low for almost 2 weeks(1 noid per pump,running 2 pumps and 4 dumps)in my set up,running 48 volts with 6 batteries(3 series,3 parrallel).and they have not even fliched!
> (see original post for testing results)
> http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=571135
> ...



You ever pick up on the idea of using four high amps pickup connectors instead of the ususal two


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## TRURIDERHYDRAULICS (May 19, 2008)




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## celflex (Oct 19, 2015)

I HOPP said:


> Hey everybody, all I gonna say is That shit WORKS! Thanks Daniel!


 where did you get the washer and spring? 

save me some time googling and calling places


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## celflex (Oct 19, 2015)

get these guys to pour a bunch http://www.consolidatedcoin.com/coins.htm


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

celflex said:


> where did you get the washer and spring?
> 
> save me some time googling and calling places


X2 becuz how many places that sell hardware are gonna know which metals are in the product and what percentage


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

Stainless spring, mixed metal washer. Its all in this topic, just have to find where to get them.


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

HAS ANYONE ELSE BUILD ONE?


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

cashmoneyspeed said:


> Stainless spring, mixed metal washer. Its all in this topic, just have to find where to get them.


I wonder how titanium would work.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

SPOOK82 said:


> TOOK SOME OF MY BURNT UP NOIDS APART TO SEE HOW HARD IT WOULD BE AND IT WAS KOO
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looking at the washer, see how different the contacts have been hitting the washer, kinda uneven. IMO the contact need to be moved more inward. Maybe even contour the contacts.
It almost seems like the noid contacts need to be broken in.

Did I already state I made a solenoid with four contact studs?


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## 81kingregal (Mar 14, 2016)

So I'm new to Hydros and I bought a 81 Regal with 2 pump 6 batteries 6 switches front back and each corner dumps I have 36v to the back 72v to the front everything was working great then the front just stopped working so I charged the batteries tested them all good so I changed Solenoids worked for a few hits then smoked solenoids so then cleaned everything got 3 24v solenoids for front got great grounds replaced all wiring new motor triple checked everything hit switch and smoked front motor it smells like burt wires so I'm at a loss any ideas


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

81kingregal said:


> So I'm new to Hydros and I bought a 81 Regal with 2 pump 6 batteries 6 switches front back and each corner dumps I have 36v to the back 72v to the front everything was working great then the front just stopped working so I charged the batteries tested them all good so I changed Solenoids worked for a few hits then smoked solenoids so then cleaned everything got 3 24v solenoids for front got great grounds replaced all wiring new motor triple checked everything hit switch and smoked front motor it smells like burt wires so I'm at a loss any ideas


New to hydros = wire that front pump to 36 or 48 volts for now. Charge batteries on a slow 2 amp charge until they read around 13.9v with the charger still hooked up. Then have them load tested 1 by 1. 1 bad cell in just 1 battery will have you burning noids and motors. Solenoids wear out over time but the main causes are poor ground under the noids or bad batteries. Get Accumax solenoids. What 24v solenoids did you buy?


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## 81kingregal (Mar 14, 2016)

I got 24v noids from Napa buddy that had hydros said he ran them looks like oil in motor


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## CakitaStylePito (Aug 27, 2021)

had to bump this topic. this is such a great write up should be sticky'd in the how to section i remember when dd built me 6 of them back in jan 2011 for my 1981 lincoln mark v 2 door running 9 batteries to the nose and I never burnt a solenoid running 4 noids to the front pump and 2 noids to the rear pump,sold the car 6 months later and the noids never failed and the new owner wrecked the linc on the freeway hopping the same week he bought it. i should of pulled thoes noids out and kept them before i sold the car.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

I wonder if a diode on the power lead would be any good


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Or maybe the ground? but the noids might not work... ?


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## hunbill28 (1 mo ago)

Think so


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Don_Altamirano (1 mo ago)

this Is a great tutorial, a few months ago I rebuild my duralast solenoids with 3/16 thick silver plated copper washers that I had cnc plasma cut and sourced from a local sheet metal shop here in Dana Point Ca. and it works perfectly!!No more buying solenoids . Even the threaded copper contact posts (side posts on the solenoids) I bought from Alibaba cheap!


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