# Step by Step Cutting and buffing



## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Cutting and buffing can make or brake that showcar finish, here is how you go about it.

You will need some supplies

A variable speed buffer that does speeds between 1200 and 1700 rpms

3 deferent types of buffing pads.......
1 high cut wool buffing pad, 
1 medium cut woole or foam pad, 
and a fine cut or polishing foam pad

Several types of compounds. 

1 Medium cutting compound
2 fine cutting compound
3 swirl mark remover, or machine polishing compound
4 Hand polish or glaze

Eye protection
dish soap
and several clean cotton rags

It’s a good idea to at least lay down 3 wet coats of clear before buffing, as much as 2 coats worth of clear will be sanded and buffed off

After you finishing your paint job.........wait between 2 to 10 days to start the buffing process......If you start too early and the paint isn’t firm enough, you will have major problems.........If you wait too long it can still be buffed, but it will be more default

Start by wet sanding the car with 1000 grit (you can start with 800 if the orange peel is really bad)
Use a flexible rubber block on all flat or semi-flat panels. Hand sand all curves and corners. Being careful not to over sand on the edges. This step is mainly to “knock” down the orange peel and make the surface nice and smooth

*NOTE: Do not sand any areas that can not be reached with the buffer!!*

Do the same with 1500 grit, and then again with 2000. This step is to make the 1000 grit scratches fine enough to be buffed.

You can go one step more and continue with 3000 grit, but it is not necessary endless you had let the paint cure for too long.

After all the sanding (cutting) is done, you are ready for buffing

Attach the high cut wool pad to your buffer, and get out the medium cutting compound and a clean cotton rag. It’s also a good idea to were eye protection. Compound in your eye really sucks!!

Move the care into the shade or inside the shop.......not a good idea to do it out in direct sunlight

*NOTE: When buffing, be extra careful on edges and corners, those are very easy burn through areas!!*

I like starting from the top down......So pick out a 3 foot by 3 foot section of the roof, and evenly apply the compound with the cotton rag on the section......You won’t need much, just enough to top the section with a thin layer of compound

Set your buffer at no less then 1400rpm and no more then 1700 rpm. 

Start buffing by working the section, moving steady from side to side and up and down......only add a bit of pressure. You will go over the section 2 or 3 times, letting off on the pressure each time. Continue this through out the car. You will notice a good shine after this step, but will get even better with the steps that follow

Remove the pad and rinse it clean or submerge it in water to be cleaned later

Carefully wash the car with a clean auto wash sponge and water with dish soap (normal dawn is best)

Switch over to the fine cutting wool or foam pad and fine cutting compound and buff as you had before

Remove the pad and rinse it clean or submerge it in water to be cleaned later

Carefully wash the car with a clean auto wash sponge and water with dish soap 

Switch over to the polishing foam pad and polishing compound or swirl mark remover and buff as you had before

Remove the pad and rinse it clean or submerge it in water to be cleaned later

Carefully wash the car with a clean auto wash sponge and water with dish soap 
Now it’s time to apply the hand polish or hand glaze......Use only clean cotton rags for this

If done right you will end up with an unbelievable mirror like shine :thumbups:

You are now ready to reassemble your car (put back door handles, emblems and so on)

Just like any other process of painting, I know many painters have many other wayz of doing things...........If you have a good tip or sujestion, please add it on :thumbsup:


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

Watch the edges --- Nothing sucks worse that catching the buff pad on a corner or a lip......... I did that a few times on a Harley tank & fender set -- Lucky it was at the bottom & out of sight tho...


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## PLANETGETLOW (Sep 22, 2003)

Great Topic(S)!!!!


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

very imformative


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## sabre (May 22, 2003)

only thing I can recommend which I've grown to love is the random orbital air tool for the finer compounds  works a treat ..


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## wasup (Apr 3, 2004)

thx Mi Estilo CC for the awesome tutorial. It's a really good tutorial


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

The only "tip" i can think of is that the hole in the center of the buffing pad is actually where u are supposed to put the compound to apply it to the panel. It mostly works on foam pads. I dont do this all the time but alot of the time it works well.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Big Doe_@Dec 16 2004, 08:46 PM
> *The only "tip" i can think of is that the hole in the center of the buffing pad is actually where u are supposed to put the compound to apply it to the panel. It mostly works on foam pads. I dont do this all the time but alot of the time it works well.
> [snapback]2514794[/snapback]​*


My local jobber would rechomend putting a 1/2 dolloer size dab of compound on the pad it self, but I noticed by doing it this way, the compound tends to "cake up" faster then if you had spread the compound over the erea instead.

In eather way, if you pad does start to cake up, a quick tip is to run a mixing stick over the pad as your buffer is running. It works well.........If it's realy bad, just remove, rince with water, shake dry, reatach, and run the buffer for a minute to spin dry the rest of the water off the pad


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

the only tip i can think of is if you clean up your (overspray) wax :biggrin: 
as you go along you can skip the cleaning with soap in between steps :biggrin:


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## lukedogg (Aug 24, 2003)

in the body shop at school, we just dry sand with a DA sander and 1500 grit, then buff with the same steps you mentioned minus the washing in between steps. This is usually done on the same day or day after paint and clear is layed. But the paint is baked on and we are not looking for a show car finish. we are just trying to match the other panels.

Thanks for the tutorial, I learned some too.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## PLANETGETLOW (Sep 22, 2003)

TTT


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

hey thanks for the how-to bro. I got some questions though.

I plan on starting with either 1000 or 1500,depending on how smooth i spray, then going to 2000 before buffing.

is there a prbolem with using only 2 pads and 2 compounds? I have a wool pad and a foam pad, and the appropriate compounds for each.will i get good results like this or should I plan on doing something by hand afterwards?
Also, whats the best thing to do in body lines as far as sanding and buffing?

the guys at the shop said to be sanding about 24hours and have it buffed 48hours.but we might not be leaving the heater on in the shop all night.its ppg omni paints by the way(first time) also, we're doing the car in parts, fenders tailgate,hood and bed are off the truck, and the bed and cab are being sprayed one side at a time (its black so colomatch isn't an issue)


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

If you are finishing up the cutting with 2000 grit...........then you can jump in with your whool pad and medium cut compound

then your foam pad with fine cut

Though you may want to rinse your faom pad, and go over it again with mechine polish.

And it never hurts (and always looks better) if you finish up the job with a hand polish glaze..

Hope that helps

By the way, what kind of compounds are you using?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

sorry double post


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

thanks for this, im looking into painting and body work, so this gave me some ideas im going to print this and save it for when i can use it


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## crashfixer (Apr 1, 2005)

I have been in the paint business for years and I must say the syatem we use at the present seems to work better than all the ones I have tried in the past.The system is called "SystemOne" and it is very simple to use.It actually 1 compuond with 3 differant wheels.We start with 2000 wet paper,followed by 3000 wet on the DA sander.When finished sanding,you will use the wool pad,then switch to a yellow foam pad and then final step is with a black polishing pad.If any of you guys get the chance to try it,post back and tell us what you think.

Mi Estilo CC
Not trying to be a jackass or anything but you might wanna check the speeds you suggest on the buffer,12-17000 is pretty fast,I cant ever recalling seeing a buffer that would even spin that fast,maybe 12-1700.I would hate to see someone burn the finish trying to buff with a buffer turning at those speeds.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Damn, I hadn't noticed that, thanks for the look out, and yes.........it's 1200 -1700 rpm


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## 64KyBelair (Dec 6, 2004)

u say watch the edges so what are we supposed to buff them with by hand?


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## chato83 (Feb 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 64KyBelair_@Apr 9 2005, 10:45 PM
> *u say watch the edges so what are we supposed to buff them with by hand?
> [snapback]2977902[/snapback]​*


nah man just go over those lightly and a little quicker than you would a panel


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

ttt


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

I got a few pics of me using the 3m dry cutting system, on this camero that I painted and after market hood, fin, and bodykit....

The bodykit and front end were flow-coated and didn't need cutting or buffing :biggrin:

But the hood and fin were a defrent story........main problem wasn't orange peel (It matched the factory OP).....but dirt specks were a problem.

I used 3 size sanding disks....

[attachmentid=193824]

800, this does all the work of leveling out the serface. I ended up using 2 disks on the hood and 1 on the fin

1000, and 1500 knock out the scrachmarks left by the 800 paper.

I had ran out of 2000 disks, but sense It's black, I whent over it by hand with 2000 wet sandpaper. I also did the edges and corners by hand.

Here is a pic of of the soft backing pad for the sandoing disks on my electric DA sander by "skil".....this baby works great, and is a fine substatute for those who don't have a high out put compressor to run a normal DA. :thumbsup:

[attachmentid=193825]

I'm using the 800 here. You can easaly see were you have saned, were you need to sand.....and how much to sand.......once the serface is one even flat color with no dark dots (orange peel low spots) then you stop, and move up to the next step

[attachmentid=193828]

I stay away from the edges....... you can easaly burn through using this system....a bit of masking tape is cheep insurance 

[attachmentid=193829]

The sanding part took less then half of what it would have by hand  The rest was buffed using the steps at the bigining of this post. You can allready see it shine after the first application.

[attachmentid=193830]

I was trying to take a pic of my reflection, but I must have gotton to close for the camera, you can still see the great detale in the clouds behind me though.....It realy had a "wet look" finish :thumbsup:


[attachmentid=193834]


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Some over all pics.......as you can see in the back ground, I'v been bussy  ....but nothing to exciting yet


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Some over all pics.......as you can see in the back ground, I'v been bussy  ....but nothing to exciting yet 

[attachmentid=193835]

[attachmentid=193837]

[attachmentid=193838]


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

YES dont forget to put tape on sharp edges 
then after you work the flat parts and get them shinnnny 
take the tape off and do the corners and edges , be careful


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## 3onthree (Feb 18, 2004)

how hard would this be for someone thats never buffed?? ive been scared to try because of the whole burn through thing, but if im careful and tape the edges like you said is it not as easy to burn through as i fear it is?


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

you gotta start somewhere 
tape all the edges and corners 
and get to work 
got some squeeze bottles like the ones they put ketchup and mustard 
them clear small ones that have a cap, and fill them with compound and finnese and what ever else your using ,foam glaze or what ever, just squeeze little at a time as long as the little work area your buffing .
with the buffer not on smear the polish on the surface with the buffing pad so you wont throw that shit all over the place ,then start buffing 
if your not water sanding and want to get your paint shinny again then you can just use what ever polish you want they'll say on the back of the bottles that you can aplly with machine 
make sure you have a good buffer with variable speed 
start on the flat spots with the rpm at around 1700 and when you get to hard to get spots slow it down a bit cause it can get caught and that can burn your paint , keep moving the the buffer ,dont stay in one spot too much. 
if your not experienced ,go buff moms ride and get some practice 
you can even water sand stock paint jobs with 2000 and be alright . 
make sure you work the paint dont think your going to get the paint shinny just by using compound ,this is a 2,3,and sometimes a 4 stage process. 
you'll be ok


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

:thumbsup:


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)




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## ricecrispy210 (May 1, 2005)




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## nwa_fo_lyfe (Jan 29, 2005)

why cant i go more than 1700 rpm?????? ive been buffing at 2400 recently.


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## Papi_J (May 21, 2005)

You're in the danger zone NWA is why . Depending on what pad you use though and how many coats of clear AND how hard your clear is are also factors . 
Also they are just talkign about rotary buffers , a DA you can go way over 1700 and be safe because the way it moves it just wont burn paint unless you gouge the backing plate in or something st00pid like that


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## nwa_fo_lyfe (Jan 29, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Papi_J_@Aug 13 2005, 01:34 PM~3611881
> *You're in the danger zone NWA is why . Depending on what pad you use though and how many coats of clear AND how hard your clear is are also factors .
> Also they are just talkign about rotary buffers , a DA you can go way over 1700 and be safe because the way it moves it just wont burn paint unless you gouge the backing plate in or something st00pid like that
> *



naw i just got that de vilbis one that they use on overhaulin and shit. i buffed the hood of my protege cuz it had a ton of water spots. i did it first w/ the a blue threaded lookig pad and it didnt do much so i went up to about 2400 gradually and it took out the water spots but i think i need to do it more cuz its got a lot of swirl marks now.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

What kind of compound are you using?


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## nwa_fo_lyfe (Jan 29, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Aug 13 2005, 09:22 PM~3613864
> *What kind of compound are you using?
> *



bought it from the deatiler supply guy. its called power buff. its a purple compound


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

you will have better results using multiple grade compounds and pads.........like medium cut compound with a whool pad, followed by fine cut compound with a medium foam pad, and polishing compound with a fine foam pad.


I've yet found a product that can give you a good finish with just one step.................but if anybody has any sujestions, I'm willing to try it.


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## diggs1870 (Jan 30, 2005)

Great Information!! Thanks.


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## Papi_J (May 21, 2005)

Mi Estilo , there is a " compound " that works BADASSED for removing 2000 grit + wetsanding . It also breaks down and works up higher and higher depending on the pad you use ! 
If you wetsand with 2000-2500 grit you dont need to drop any lower than a yellow foam oe Meguiars Burgandy anyways usually , so it's an awesome all in one compound that you dont need anything except it ..

It's called Optimum Polish  and there is NONE better !

P.S. Read the link on that page " Making the Perfect Polish " to see all the testing of different formulas until it is was perfect


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Hey, I'm going to have to give that a try..........good info :thumbsup:


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

looks cool, but I'm fine giving the clear a quick 2000 grit buzz, some 3m compound on a wool pad, followed by 3m swirl mark remover on a foam at about 1000 or less rpm.Shit satys on, so i wait for it to dry up a lil and wipe it off with terrycloth instead of trying to buff it all the way off like alot of people do.


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## underground (May 1, 2005)

i spit on it with the  foamy


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## MRA (Jun 29, 2003)

ttt


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by Papi_J_@Aug 18 2005, 03:18 PM~3652533
> *Mi Estilo , there is a " compound " that works BADASSED for removing 2000 grit + wetsanding . It also breaks down and works up higher and higher depending on the pad you use !
> If you wetsand with 2000-2500 grit you dont need to drop any lower than a yellow foam oe Meguiars Burgandy anyways usually , so it's an awesome all in one compound that you dont need anything except it ..
> 
> ...



i'll stick to FARECLA !


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## SCLA (Apr 12, 2003)

ttt


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Dec 16 2004, 02:03 AM~2512189
> *Cutting and buffing can make or brake that showcar finish, here is how you go about it.
> 
> You will need some supplies
> ...


i dont understand the pads and polish at all the pads the ones i got are the one pictured below and one that is like a towel like will any of these work if not what should i use got a pic? and the polish i only got the one you get from walmart turtle wax rubbing compound and turtle wax polishing compound (both pictured below) if these dont work what should i use?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

here are some examples...








Wool pad








foom pad








polishing pad


http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/...g_1885_18884230 fine cut compound

http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/...g_1885_18935923 swirlmark remover

high and meduim cut bottles look the same as above...


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## hotstuff5964 (Dec 9, 2004)

can somebody recommend some good rubbing compounds. my paint store only has 3m heavy duty and that finese it stuff. i been using the finese but its very fine, i need that medium cut.


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Mar 10 2006, 03:50 PM~5021225
> *here are some examples...
> 
> 
> ...


were would i find these and wich of thes are the 1 high cut whole buffing pad, 
1 medium cut whole pad, 
and a fine cut or polishing foam pad


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Woooow.......I realy gota do something about my typing/spelling...lol when I said "whole" I meant "wool" :biggrin:


any way.......

Cutting or compounding pads are mostly wool You'll use this one with high or medium cutting compound

Medium cutting or pads come in wool or foam....the wool ones have finer hair and can easaly be told apart from the high cutting wool pads.....the foam pads can com in defrent colors and shapes....the "egg crate" or "waffle" type pads work better. IMO ....You would use these with medium to fine cutting compounds.

Fine cutting or polishing foam pads are mostly black in color. and you would use them with fine cutting compound, mechine polish, or swirl mark remover.

There are many ways to mix and match pads with compounds......you will have to try them out and see what methode works best with you.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

Found this neet little table...


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Mar 11 2006, 04:27 AM~5024627
> *Woooow.......I realy gota do something about my typing/spelling...lol  when I said "whole" I meant "wool"  :biggrin:
> any way.......
> 
> ...


thanks a looot


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

is this a good buffer for cut and buff?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

The buffer looks like it will do the trick, do you know the speed of it?

but for sure that pad thats on it will not do........may be good for just waxing or normal polish, but not buffing.


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

:thumbsup:


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Mar 11 2006, 10:16 PM~5029610
> *The buffer looks like it will do the trick, do you know the speed of it?
> 
> but for sure that pad thats on it will not do........may be good for just waxing or normal polish, but not buffing.
> *


gota fin out cause it has 5 diffrent speeds


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## 713ridaz (Mar 12, 2002)

:thumbsup:


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by whitepac_@Mar 12 2006, 07:48 AM~5030805
> *gota fin out cause it has 5 diffrent speeds
> *



I'm sure it will do........You'll just need to get a better backing pad and buffing pads for it........smartshoppersinc.com have all you'll need from the sandpaper to the compounds.....check them out and give them a call.

Also don't be afrade to ask your local paint supplier for tips and advice.....(granted some clerks seem not to know what there talking about) most do......Remember these guys not only do work on there own, but they talk to all the painters who come in to get supplies, so they may know allot of new ways or tricks or of new products that work good.


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Mar 12 2006, 01:39 PM~5032893
> *I'm sure it will do........You'll just need to get a better backing pad and buffing pads for it........smartshoppersinc.com have all you'll need from the sandpaper to the compounds.....check them out and give them a call.
> 
> Also don't be afrade to ask your local paint supplier for tips and advice.....(granted some clerks seem not to know what there talking about)  most do......Remember these guys not only do work on there own, but they talk to all the painters who come in to get supplies, so they may know allot of new ways or tricks or of new products that work good.
> *


cool thanks


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## ozzylowrider (Jun 9, 2005)

Thanks for the help, i learnt alot from this...


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Jun 18 2005, 08:16 PM~3292121
> *I got a few pics of me using the 3m dry cutting system, on this camero that I painted and after market hood, fin, and bodykit....
> 
> The bodykit and front end were flow-coated and didn't need cutting or buffing :biggrin:
> ...


hey i got the same exact sander but the pad that came with it wont stick how did you do that?


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

the pads that come with it are just for simple polishing and waxing......the soft pad that you will need is a 2 sided hoop&loop pad, You will need to buy one at your local paint supplier. I get mine at carquest and thy come in pairs.....for like $10


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## EL_PASO (May 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Mar 15 2006, 12:44 PM~5054243
> *the pads that come with it  are just for simple polishing and waxing......the soft pad that you will need is a 2 sided hoop&loop pad, You will need to buy one at your local paint supplier.  I get mine at carquest and thy come in pairs.....for like $10
> *


cool thanks, sorry for all the dumb Q but this is my first time cuting and buffing so I am trying to learn


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## drasticbean (May 22, 2002)

:biggrin:


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

ttt


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)




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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

holy old fuckin topic batman :0


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Mar 31 2008, 05:33 PM~10299933
> *holy old fuckin topic batman :0
> *


yea I just got a cutty with orange peel and wanted to save this topic so when I go sand it and buff it I have some kind of info on what to do :biggrin:


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## Lo_N_Lavish (Oct 8, 2006)

im a beginner at wetsanding and im doing it by hand, 
ive got two scrap honda bumpers im practicing on, but theres on question i have 
im starting with 1000 grit, because they are in decent shape 
then moving to 1500, then stopping with 2000, but im doin this all with a block, not with a machine because im not ready and dont wanna burn. 

my question is if its possible to do the wetsanding by hand, is it possible to use a typical DA ( aslong as its not over 1700 rpm) to buff? or possibly polish by hand without a buffer? because i dont own a expensive buffer and im thinking that because the polish fills the cracks and seeps into the clear it wouldnt matter at what speed, it would just take longer? 

thanks


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## Eazy (Dec 23, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Apr 2 2008, 08:58 AM~10314647
> *im a beginner at wetsanding and im doing it by hand,
> ive got two scrap honda bumpers im practicing on, but theres on question i have
> im starting with 1000 grit, because they are in decent shape
> ...


*You should only use a Refinishing DA. It has a shorter stroke so it's less aggressive. I would also suggest you use and interface pad when your sanding too. I use the whole 3M system for cutting and buffing. I got the step by step and the products you should use with this system if your interested. Let me know homie. Nobody has the perfect way to do it, everyone does it a certain way and they stick to it.  *


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)




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## Lo_N_Lavish (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Anteazy_@Apr 5 2008, 06:46 AM~10340644
> *You should only use a Refinishing DA.  It has a shorter stroke so it's less aggressive.  I would also suggest you use and interface pad when your sanding too.  I use the whole 3M system for cutting and buffing.  I got the step by step and the products you should use with this system if your interested.  Let me know homie.  Nobody has the perfect way to do it, everyone does it a certain way and they stick to it.
> *


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

we start with 600 were i work at :0 flwaless finish all the time


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## fishboy745 (Nov 20, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 96BIG_BODY_@Apr 11 2008, 09:19 PM~10395769
> *we start with 600 were i work at :0 flwaless finish all the time
> *


My friend who does a lot of custom work tells me that he also starts with 600 paper.My question is how much fuckin clear do you guys spary to start sanding with 600?? Hard for me 2 under stand
Edit: post the steps


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## 155/80/13 (Sep 4, 2005)

yea we do mostly high end custom hot rods and harleys, average is about 7 coats


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## shrimpscampi (Mar 31, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Dec 16 2004, 03:03 AM~2512189
> *Cutting and buffing can make or brake that showcar finish, here is how you go about it.
> 
> You will need some supplies
> ...


Thank You For Posting This...


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

> _Originally posted by fishboy745_@Apr 13 2008, 07:51 PM~10407697
> *My friend who does a lot of custom work tells me that he also starts with 600 paper.My question is how much fuckin clear do you guys spary to start sanding with 600?? Hard for me 2 under stand
> Edit: post the steps
> *


You don't remove all that much more clear starting with 600,
You're still only sanding untill all the peel is gone.
True you have deeper scratches and have to go over it with
addditional finer grits before buffing, but it's not as bad as you think.
I do 4 coats of clear and can start with 600 no problem.
IT really does give a straighter finish.


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## Eurocabi (Nov 27, 2004)

anyone tried buffing by hand instead of the buffer?, just about to try my first flake job and i'm not that confident with a buffer. not worried about it taking longer to do, just dont want to burn through to the flake


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## hotstuff5964 (Dec 9, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Eurocabi_@Jun 3 2008, 11:58 PM~10793451
> *anyone tried buffing by hand instead of the buffer?, just about to try my first flake job and i'm not that confident with a buffer. not worried about it taking longer to do, just dont want to burn through to the flake
> *


you will never get it buffed out by hand

unless you're using laquer


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## Eurocabi (Nov 27, 2004)

I'll keep practising on the test panels in that case until i get it down. 
i started on a couple of laquer jobs and they came out great by hand, but i'm guessing the new stuff is much harder


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## RAIDERSEQUAL (May 27, 2006)

i got my car painted and had it cut and buffed but i can see in the sun some spots that he didnt buf out right and i was wondering what could i use to get those little spots buffed out perferably by hand

like a good compound


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## B DOG (Mar 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by RAIDERSEQUAL_@Jun 4 2008, 07:56 PM~10801046
> *i got my car painted and had it cut and buffed but i can see in the sun some spots that he didnt buf out right and i was wondering what could i use to get those little spots buffed out perferably by hand
> 
> like a good compound
> *


might be a dumb ? but, have you asked the guys who buffed it to touch it up?


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## Li'l Eder (Jul 17, 2007)

WHATS THE DIFERENCE BETWEEN SWIRL REMOVER COMPOUND AND GLAZE? ANYONE CAN POST A PIC OF THE FINE CUT WOOL PAD


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## DOUBLE D 88 (Sep 17, 2007)

compound is 4 removing the sanding marks the sandpaper leaves,swirl mark remover is wat u use 2 remove the fogginess and fine scratches the coumpound left,glaze gives the shine and luster in the paint


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

wow feb 05 was my first post in this topic and now im back reading it again and still loving this topic!!!  gotta love making that paint shine!!!


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## cl1965ss (Nov 27, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Dec 16 2004, 05:03 AM~2512189
> *Cutting and buffing can make or brake that showcar finish, here is how you go about it.
> 
> You will need some supplies
> ...


DAMN. :thumbsup:


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

has any new products or other ways of doing it?as soon as it gets warm out I am going to try to buff out the ride.


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## PancakesAndHammers (Jun 1, 2006)

TTT


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## gramma (Jul 4, 2008)

> _Originally posted by NIMSTER64_@Feb 3 2009, 02:56 PM~12896633
> *has any new products or other ways of doing it?as soon as it gets warm out I am going to try to buff out the ride.
> *


that norton liquid ice system works pretty good..not the turtle wax liquid ice crap.


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## gizmoscustoms (Sep 21, 2007)

good topic


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## stayontop81 (Mar 29, 2006)

heres a couple tips I can contribute to this thread.The first is when it comes to sharp bodylines, edges, or corners where your afraid of burning thru you can actually use just polishing compound (glaze) and a foam pad to get your sand scratches out.Just use plenty of glaze and keep it wet.Still gotta be careful but its less risky  Also if you get really bad peel and you sanded to the point where you feel your getting too close too the base and it still looks pitted and fucked up, you can actually use some xtra cut or medium cut compound with a wool pad and heat the clear back up so you move it around and let it flow out again.As long as theres enough clear on there you can wheel on it untill its flat.I think the key to wheelin is all about using the right amount of compound.shit,might as well add that a fork works good for cleaning your wool pads and if your pad gets clogged and flat like a napkin jus throw it in the washer and dryer and make it fluffy again but they do wear out eventually.I wouldnt use one longer than 8 hours before I throw it away and get a new one.Just basic shit a beginner might wanna know...u know! :biggrin:


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## moyamike (Dec 20, 2009)

:biggrin:


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## RV527752 (Apr 2, 2010)

do you shammy dry after wash or let it air dry


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## mrlowrider209 (Aug 7, 2008)

Where's a good place to get everything in a kit??


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## MYERS60 (Jan 29, 2010)

:boink: :drama: Good info!


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## bigshod (Feb 11, 2006)

ttt......sum good info, gonna start to learn me sumthing on this now :cheesy:


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## npazzin (Mar 19, 2010)

> _Originally posted by mrlowrider209_@Nov 11 2010, 12:46 AM~19040233
> *Where's a good place to get everything in a kit??
> *



X2!!!!


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## gizmoscustoms (Sep 21, 2007)




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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

heres a pretty good kit that i bought, i orderd mine from a website and it had a different quick connect for the pads but same brand and products... compound works pretty good, however i do use 3m perfect it polish

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...id=160521797325


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## bigshod (Feb 11, 2006)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Dec 31 2010, 07:43 AM~19466160
> *heres a pretty good kit that i bought, i orderd mine from a website and it had a different quick connect for the pads but same brand and products... compound works pretty good, however i do use 3m perfect it polish
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...id=160521797325
> *


so pads are good to work with but just get some different compound


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## FlipFlopBox (Jun 4, 2003)

na i allways use the 3m polish its just what i do, but the whole kit is a nice kit for the price and ive used the polish and compound, a few guys on lil put me on to the presta stuff, great product for a great price


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## bigshod (Feb 11, 2006)

> _Originally posted by FlipFlopBox_@Dec 31 2010, 08:30 AM~19466411
> *na i allways use the 3m polish its just what i do, but the whole kit is a nice kit for the price and ive used the polish and compound, a few guys on lil put me on to the presta stuff, great product for a great price
> *


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

:wow:


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## Dreamwork Customs (Jun 13, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Mi Estilo CC_@Dec 16 2004, 03:03 AM~2512189
> *Cutting and buffing can make or brake that showcar finish, here is how you go about it.
> 
> You will need some supplies
> ...


YOU HAVE A COOL SYSTEM BUT AS FAR AS THE DISH SOAP, WE NEVER EVER RECOMMEND THAT... WHEN WET SANDING WE ALWAYS FALLOW WITH A WET MICRO FIBER TO RINSE OFF ALL THE RESEDO, DISH SOAP HAS DEGREASING AGENTS THAT CAN EFFECT A FRESH PAINT JOB. WE HAVE ALSO NOTICED IF YOU LET A CAR CURE LONGER, YOUR END RESULT TURNS OUT BETTER... IF YOU FEEL THE NEED TO WAS INBETWEEN STEP BY ALL MEANS USE MEGUIRES CAR SOAP... WELL THAT'S OUR TWO CENTS...


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## 74chevy glasshouse (Jan 5, 2008)

:biggrin:


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## chongo1 (Nov 6, 2007)

great info


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## $$RON $$ (Dec 6, 2008)




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## 801Rider (Jun 9, 2003)

I find that if I wetsand up to 2000, I can use a finishing pad with fine cut polish, followed by some glaze on a finishing pad....comes out pretty good


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)




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## bigshod (Feb 11, 2006)

So u should wait 2 days before Wet sanding or buffing


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

bump


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## LaidbackLuis (Oct 22, 2004)

*what type of polisher are you using or have you used? Do you like one more than the other? Dewalt, Makita, Porter Cable?...I'm in the market for one and it seems like Dewalt and makita are the favorites among most people *


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## SUPREME69 (Feb 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by bigshod+Mar 16 2011, 01:29 PM~20106618-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


i have a makita that ive had for 10 years. ive only ever used a black and decker to compare to. but the makita is lighter and easier to handle. but i guess its personal preference. get someting that is comfortable and easy to handle for you.


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## LaidbackLuis (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by SUPREME69_@May 26 2011, 08:25 PM~20636504
> *i have a makita that ive had for 10 years. ive only ever used a black and decker to compare to. but the makita is lighter and easier to handle. but i guess its personal preference. get someting that is comfortable and easy to handle for you.
> *


Thanks for the info Supreme. I'm leaning toward the Dewalt but that's only because a friend let me borrow his used Makita and I wasn't too happy. In Makita's defense that unit was old and the variable speed knob kept spiking to 4k. Aside from that the unit did a good job, but did seem a little loud...


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## bump512 (Dec 29, 2008)




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## SUPREME69 (Feb 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Sin7_@May 27 2011, 05:57 AM~20639584
> *Thanks for the info Supreme. I'm leaning toward the Dewalt but that's only because a friend let me borrow his used Makita and I wasn't too happy. In Makita's defense that unit was old and the variable speed knob kept spiking to 4k. Aside from that the unit did a good job, but did seem a little loud...
> *


Dewalt seems to be keeping up with the jones', i was thinking of buying a Dewalt polisher just to have a second one. i also want to invest in a porter cable polisher. ive heard those help out alot in removing swirls.


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## pi4short (Sep 29, 2006)

dewalt for me.... i've had mine for 6 years and no problems.. light weight and very good control.. :cheesy:


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## LaidbackLuis (Oct 22, 2004)

> _Originally posted by SUPREME69+May 27 2011, 08:21 AM~20639679-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info bro.


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## LaidbackLuis (Oct 22, 2004)

Ended up choosing the Dewalt


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## jumper (Jan 21, 2002)

I dont know if this was mentioned yet but another good tip is to make sure you buffing pad is rolling OFF the edges not INTO the edges.


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## SUPREME69 (Feb 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Sin7+May 27 2011, 05:57 AM~20639584-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...



at the end of the day you could be using a harbor freight polisher. the person using it is what counts.... no go burn some paint :biggrin:


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## chef (Apr 18, 2009)

i have a mikita but how can i tell the rpm it has 1,2,3,4 on the speed dial :dunno:


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## SUPREME69 (Feb 9, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chef_@May 29 2011, 01:30 AM~20650210
> *i have a mikita but how can i tell the rpm it has 1,2,3,4 on the speed dial :dunno:
> *


1=1,000 2=2,000.etc


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## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

> _Originally posted by SUPREME69_@May 26 2011, 06:25 PM~20636504
> *i work in a repair shop and i wait 1 day to sand and buff. in custom work if the customer will wait til the paint is fully cured i will do it. if not then atleast wait a day to start color sanding and buffing.
> *


so if you do your own car and want the best results with no time restrictions, how long would you let it cure?


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## chef (Apr 18, 2009)

> _Originally posted by SUPREME69_@May 29 2011, 06:18 AM~20650670
> *1=1,000 2=2,000.etc
> *



so when everyone says to keep it between 1400 and 1700 what number should i use :wow:


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## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

i like to go 1400 on my first pass and as i finish up i kick it up to 1600.

it'll work regardless but you have to get a feel for what you like.


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## chef (Apr 18, 2009)

anyone what number i should set my mikita at 1,2,3,4 ect so i dont burn my clear ?


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## SUPREME69 (Feb 9, 2006)

LostInSanPedro said:


> so if you do your own car and want the best results with no time restrictions, how long would you let it cure?


if possible id wait 90 days for the paint to fully cure, if any paint shrinkage, solvent pop, or dye back happens. you can fix it all in one shot.



chef said:


> so when everyone says to keep it between 1400 and 1700 what number should i use :wow:


for cutting i usually work between 3000-3500 rpms, for polishing 2000-2500.



LostInSanPedro said:


> i like to go 1400 on my first pass and as i finish up i kick it up to 1600.
> 
> it'll work regardless but you have to get a feel for what you like.


exactly! everyones different and has different ways of doing the job. theres no right or wrong way, just get the job done without burning the paint


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## SUPREME69 (Feb 9, 2006)

chef said:


> anyone what number i should set my mikita at 1,2,3,4 ect so i dont burn my clear ?


are you new to buffing? id say start in between 2 and 3 which would be 2500. get the feel of the machine. be careful around the edges and/or bodylines. as they will burn quick. if your hesitant to buff around those areas. put a piece of masking tape to cover the area. so you dont hit that spot too much.


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## chef (Apr 18, 2009)

*thanks*

yeah new to this but thanks fro the info :thumbsup:


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## garageartguy (Nov 17, 2008)

:thumbsup:


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