# Quick disconnect location, whats better, in the trunk or under the front seat?



## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

Or does it come down to personal preference? I about the juice my daily driver with 2 pumps and 4 batteries. I'm in the car for about 30-40 hours & 200-400 miles a week.


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## 352cutty86 (May 21, 2008)

Honestly It's mostly personal preference. Though With the statement it's ur daily, lean more to under ur seat. It will suit ur needs better.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

I like having it under my seat. It's a good idea to have back up disconnect in the trunk though incase the ground cable going to under your seat ever becomes grounded (like if the jacket on the wire were cut or melted) to prevent a disaster. If you do it under the seat run a good thick welding cable up to the disconnect at the seat and then back from the disconnect to rack that the solenoids and pumps are grounded to. If you just ground it to the car at the seat your asking for problems with stuck solenoids.


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## antgjr (Jun 25, 2011)

Put it under your seat nothing is worse than driving down the freeway and have a pump run away and having to pull over as quick as you can and running to the trunk with your extinguisher cause you can smell the fire happened to me once and never again as soon as I got home I put in under the seat


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## Chicago-n (Jul 10, 2005)

Won't cables running to the front cause more damage

If they burn


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## NYC68droptop (Aug 30, 2004)

what kind of solenoids are you using? if you are using solenoid blocks then DO NOT put your disconnect under the seat leave it in the trunk


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

Just bought 4 accumax and 25' of 1/0 welding cable. I'm not going for a hopper just a simple lift and lay


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## CokeZero (Apr 16, 2012)

putting mine in trunk


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## Lil Razo (Oct 1, 2006)

I had mine under my seat in my blazer a true life saver and convient as hell my monte has it in the trunk and its pretty annoying havinh to open it just to plug it up i installed a pop trunk just to make it easier but still i miss having it under the seat


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## Lil Razo (Oct 1, 2006)

caprice on dz said:


> . I'm in the car for about 30-40 hours & 200-400 miles a week.


Gawd.damn u deliverin pizzas?


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## 925rider (Aug 15, 2005)

full time job just in car time.... i have mine under the seat..spent more on good thick welding cable to avoid problems... run it back into the trunk to a bolt welded to the rack.. never to seat bolt will burn carpet an seat foam


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## big kev (Jun 14, 2011)

make sure ground it the frame not to seat or the body you should ok


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

You some kind of investigator? Do you do a lot of sitting? 2-400 miles doesn't add up to 30-40hrs......you will be a lot happier with it under the seat


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## Lil Razo (Oct 1, 2006)

Hes a private investigator no one would suspect there being followed by a lowrider that's hoppin.n shit lol


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## CokeZero (Apr 16, 2012)

I spent $320 for wire just to wire up my batts and noids. No way I'm buying more to run the DC all the way under the seat. Too expensive , we have trunk pops


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

KingsWood said:


> You some kind of investigator? Do you do a lot of sitting? 2-400 miles doesn't add up to 30-40hrs......you will be a lot happier with it under the seat


I make deliverys five days a week


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

What kind of wire are you running for 320 dollars


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

Lil Razo said:


> Gawd.damn u deliverin pizzas?


Sadly yes but it pays the bills. A lot of times I get a better tip than normal because the customer likes the car.


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

CokeZero said:


> I spent $320 for wire just to wire up my batts and noids. No way I'm buying more to jrun the DC all the way under the seat. Too expensive , we have trunk pops


Ebay had the best prices I could find. $55 for 25' of 1/0 welding cable and $20 for the battery terminal connectors. Then again I'm only running 1 bank of 4 batteries and the pumps are fairly close to the batteries.


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## Lil Razo (Oct 1, 2006)

caprice on dz said:


> Sadly yes but it pays the bills. A lot of times I get a better tip than normal because the customer likes the car.


Lol i aint hatin homie my bro did the same thing in his elcomino with some bolt on tru rays back in 95


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## Marty McFly (Dec 13, 2005)

charge your batteries

otherwise gtfo


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

Lil Razo said:


> Lol i aint hatin homie my bro did the same thing in his elcomino with some bolt on tru rays back in 95


it is what it is but ironically work around food all day has made me not want to eat as much which is a good thing my big ass could stand to lose a few pounds lold


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## chrisdizzle (Jul 18, 2010)

CokeZero said:


> I spent $320 for wire just to wire up my batts and noids. No way I'm buying more to run the DC all the way under the seat. Too expensive , we have trunk pops


Holy fuck! That's more then I spent on my wire, terminals, quick disconnects, and metal for the racks!


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## CokeZero (Apr 16, 2012)

umlolo said:


> What kind of wire are you running for 320 dollars


40ft of 2/0 with cable ends



chrisdizzle said:


> Holy fuck! That's more then I spent on my wire, terminals, quick disconnects, and metal for the racks!


You must be running speaker wire.


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## chrisdizzle (Jul 18, 2010)

Nope 30 ft. of 1/0 welding cable.


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## DARKJUGGERNAUT (Apr 14, 2004)

trunk..always


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

CokeZero said:


> 40ft of 2/0 with cable ends
> 
> 
> 
> You must be running speaker wire.


I got $90 into steel but my rack is simple, 12' 2x2x3/16 box, 12' 2x2x3/16 angle


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

CokeZero said:


> I spent $320 for wire just to wire up my batts and noids. No way I'm buying more to run the DC all the way under the seat. Too expensive , we have trunk pops


I paid 100 for 30 ft. #2 welding cable


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Where I live the most expensive is 2.50 a foot. When I built my car in 98 it was 99cents a foot 1\0 welding cable. Been on car ever since with no probs


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

Try welding supply.com or a local welding supply store next time. That's a rediculous amount on cable. I spent about half that on 2/0 wire, terminal lugs, and 7 noids for a 6 batt/3 pump setup. 

Disconnect in trunk. When there's a problem I've always seen a giant blue spark come out the disconnect when you pull it. I'd rather not have that happen next to seat n carpet.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Under the seat is tricky, yes on that blue spark. but it does not need to run under the seat. You could run both, the other being in the trunk. 

You might be able to hook up a a cable like those in car brakes or gear shifters on ten speed bikes. Pull up, push down = no more ground. The we have the old vise grips, you would modify. Remember the vises grips? Again, Riders (mostly new ones?) are using what others are using, and need to look at other ways to do the same thing. (ANDREW always seems to have a nice way of saying this) - If there is a problem, fix it by doing it a different way.

IMO, finding a way to disconnect wires or terminals from a distance, should not be an issue. 


The there are about 3-4 others ways to to the same thing. If we get together I would believe there might be 20 different ways. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjn4NaueLMg&feature=youtu.be


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

No that I think about it if I did put it inside the car it would have to be next to the center console. Im a big guy and cant really reach under the seat when seated in the car. Thank you all for he insight on this matter.


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## 86bluemcLS (Apr 17, 2008)

It just depends of your lay n play 4 batts under seat is good just needs to have a good ground to the body of the car in thr trunk if u hop your car its easier to get to it ive had my ground in both places i liked mine under seat because i like to drive and hit switches if it ever runs off i can disconnect it but when its in trunk gota pull over or whatever just to disconnect it just imagine that in action lol


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

I'm running both one in trunk pull type that Pops and under seat race car on/off switch got from racing store. Doesn't pop cuts off all power seen similar at auto zone but it looks cheap


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hydros said:


> Under the seat is tricky, yes on that blue spark. but it does not need to run under the seat. You could run both, the other being in the trunk.


How would you go about running both, one upfront an one in the trunk? Only having one connected at a time?

Reason i ask is because im in a wheelchair..if something goes wrong in the trunk an the disconnect is in the trunk, by the time i transfer out of the car an into the chair, my shit could be up in flames by then if that were to ever happen. But at the same time a disconnect in the rear would be good when i hop since its hanging out the trunk an quicker to get to and im already outside the car know what i mean? Also is it possible to run a relay or something an make the disconnect like a button or lever on the dash since it would be a bit difficult to reach under the seat everytime i wanted to disconnect?

Let me know what you guys think...just thinking of some way to make it more beneficial for disability an safety.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

umlolo said:


> I'm running both one in trunk pull type that Pops and under seat race car on/off switch got from racing store. Doesn't pop cuts off all power seen similar at auto zone but it looks cheap


got a pic of the on/off switch disconnect in your car?

an if you turn of to all the power from that switch does that disable the power for the rear disconnect if you hook it up? or its separate?


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> I'm running both one in trunk pull type that Pops and under seat race car on/off switch got from racing store. Doesn't pop cuts off all power seen similar at auto zone but it looks cheap


is that the kind that you see on a drag race car where is they have an accidentthey can cut power to the fuel pump quickly


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

yesthe drag racing switch






this is in trunk


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

this switch is under seat.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

yes the one under seat dis ables all power but if it does stick (i had another ride were that happened.had soleniods go out a few times the switch helped.) i have diconnect in trunk. running only 5 batts one of my club brothers is running 6 with same switch.also if you get pulled over no power officer just for looks ground is to frame on side of seat to switch to ground of first batteries my disconnect is on cable that connects banks of batts .that pick is in the middle.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

umlolo said:


> View attachment 618617
> View attachment 618617
> this switch is under seat.


hows that work? moving it connects an moving it again to off disconnects or how?


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

umlolo said:


> yes the one under seat dis ables all power but it it does stick (i had another ride were that happened) i have diconnect in trunk. running only 5 batts one of my club brothers is running 6 with same switch.also if you get pulled over no power officer just for looks


oh ok gotcha


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> yes the one under seat dis ables all power but if it does stick (i had another ride were that happened.had soleniods go out a few times the switch helped.) i have diconnect in trunk. running only 5 batts one of my club brothers is running 6 with same switch.also if you get pulled over no power officer just for looks ground is to frame on side of seat to switch to ground of first batteries my disconnect is on cable that connects banks of batts .that pick is in the middle.


Gonna have to look into one of those, I have the perfect spot to mount it in my center console. Im only running one bank of 48 volts and dont plan to try and swing my shit lol.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Will work great


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Will work great my old ride I had it in center console next to my feet don't have any pics


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> Will work great my old ride I had it in center console next to my feet don't have any pics


what size cable did you run? I have 1/0 welding cable.


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> Will work great my old ride I had it in center console next to my feet don't have any pics


How do you wire it, same as the standard welder style disconnect? Does one side go to the negative battery post and the other to the car's frame or the battery rack as a ground?

Thinking of getting this one thats rated for 6-36 volts, do you think it will handle 48?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Batt...Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b1e99d1a&vxp=mtr


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

i have 5 batts to it my club brother running 6 batts in a 75 lincoln he used to always fry noids he put switch on his to save motors here is a bottom pic hooks up regular except ground starts at frame under/ next to my seat then to first batt negative then noids then pumps the switch is gounded to frame not battery rack






left side is to frame right goes to trunk to negative.i have a thin piece of rubber as a seal to keep water out of car in case i drive in rain. pic is from under car


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

been on car since about 98 im running welding cable


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## kaos283 (Nov 9, 2002)

cashmoneyspeed said:


> Try welding supply.com or a local welding supply store next time. That's a rediculous amount on cable. I spent about half that on 2/0 wire, terminal lugs, and 7 noids for a 6 batt/3 pump setup.
> 
> Disconnect in trunk. When there's a problem I've always seen a giant blue spark come out the disconnect when you pull it. I'd rather not have that happen next to seat n carpet.


:thumbsup:


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> i have 5 batts to it my club brother running 6 batts in a 75 lincoln he used to always fry noids he put switch on his to save motors here is a bottom pic hooks up regular except ground starts at frame under/ next to my seat then to first batt negative then noids then pumps the switch is gounded to frame not battery rack
> View attachment 618677
> left side is to frame right goes to trunk to negative.i have a thin piece of rubber as a seal to keep water out of car in case i drive in rain. pic is from under car


Trying to visualize this, is this what you are saying


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

It would be before the quick disconnect in your picture


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

Im having a hard time understanding


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Ground/frame to switch to quick disconnect to neg on first battery


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Move the drawing of switch to before the quick disconnect


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

Im trying to wrap my brain around it but its not functioning tonight, are you saying to move the wire that runs from the switch to the negative on the first battery down to the fourth battery?


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Mine sounds wierd because I have batts on each side of trunk not together.it was easier to put in middle with your setup I would run before that quick disconnect in picture


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

The new pic is the way I ran my old ride


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Now move switch to the very right battery negative


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Add numbers to pic


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> Now move switch to the very right battery negative


Now I got ya. So it connects to the same post as the regular disconnect does.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

To me your batteries are 4, 3, 2, 1. 4th goes to pump 1st is were you connect neg wire


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

caprice on dz said:


> Im trying to wrap my brain around it but its not functioning tonight, are you saying to move the wire that runs from the switch to the negative on the first battery down to the fourth battery?


Did you mean to put the disconnect switch on the neg all te way to the right? In the drawing that would ground out as soon as you turn it on.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

It is before quick disconnect but yes switch is Underseat quick disconnect is in trunk. Its mainly used as backup .my quick disconnect only been pulled once when I added a 6th battery


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

MR.MEMO said:


> Did you mean to put the disconnect switch on the neg all te way to the right? In the drawing that would ground out as soon as you turn it on.


So is putting a quick disconnect .once connected uts grounded


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> To me your batteries are 4, 3, 2, 1. 4th goes to pump 1st is were you connect neg wire


I wired it based on this drawing
http://www.layitlow.com/tech/2pump_4batt_1bay.shtml


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

That disconnect would work if you ran it as a jumper in te battery series I remember a customer had one of those and had a runaway and it did not disconnect when we turned the knob. It ended up going until the ground terminal melted off.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Your first pic us battery rack to disconnect to neg (right battery) to solenoids to pump. My ground is on frame not battery rack battery rack is welded to frame in trunk.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

MR.MEMO said:


> That disconnect would work if you ran it as a jumper in te battery series I remember a customer had one of those and had a runaway and it did not disconnect when we turned the knob. It ended up going until the ground terminal melted off.


Yes im running both thats the reason


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

umlolo said:


> So is putting a quick disconnect .once connected uts grounded


Do you use both at the same time?why would you ground 36 volts?


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

caprice on dz said:


> I wired it based on this drawing
> http://www.layitlow.com/tech/2pump_4batt_1bay.shtml


Pretty much im running 2 disconnects the switch underseat wont throw spark the one in trunk will.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

MR.MEMO said:


> Do you use both at the same time?why would you ground 36 volts?


Hes trying to figure out how im running mine it just looks confusing


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

I'm going to try and take another pic under car


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Dont need as jumper with 4 batts put between neg and ground


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

mainly my fear is I won't be able to get out of the car in time and get to the trunk, but I can't reach under my seat when seated as I am 6'-380lbs and I don't want the disconnect laying on the passenger seat or across the center console all obvious like


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Disconnect intrunk switch Underseat switch should work fine disconnect is for back up


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Mine usnt far under seat. It in reaching distance.i sat in car and marked where I could easily turn off and on


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

Mylast ride i drilled hole on side of center console and ran it there my impala doesnt have center console


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## MR.MEMO (Sep 5, 2007)

I would wire it like this if you want to run that battery cutoff disconnect switch. This way it kills the 24v if you throw the switch.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)




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## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

caprice on dz said:


> mainly my fear is I won't be able to get out of the car in time and get to the trunk, but I can't reach under my seat when seated as I am 6'-380lbs and I don't want the disconnect laying on the passenger seat or across the center console all obvious like


How about on the dash somewhere? Somewhere by the switches? That little thing looked neat.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

u dont have to split up the batteries


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

one of my members has his under dash. frame to race disconnect switch to pull type disconnect to 6 batteries. i wouldnt put around regular switches


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

mr memeo you are grounding in the trunk im grounding to frame around front seat hoppers ground in trunk wont need to with low power. first switch is to turn on and off setup, ive been at shows and seen spectator tap a switch not thier car thats why many put up rope barrier to keep people off car.my way one wire from front to back yours one wire up another coming back to trunk im currently running this in my car been on it since 98


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

im running a total of 15 feet of welding wire in my setup 7 ft goes from under seat to trunk


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

umlolo said:


> View attachment 618981


now I see where I was confused, you actually ran the in car switch in line with the trunk disconnect, I was thinking they were seperate. It looks like you wired the batteries like me except I ran the pumps to the driver side end battery but all in all should be the same


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

So the way you have it wired, if I were to get a run on, if I flip the switch in the car even though the one in the trunk is connected it will still cut the power?


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

I wonder if this would work its made for forklifts and rated for 48 volts and offered in a 175amp or 350amp version, looks like it could be mounted low on the side of the console and be able to be pulled with one hand quickly

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANDERSON-CONNECTORS-CONTACTS-SB175A-600V-1-0AWG-BLUE-/140539599491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b8d01a83


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## kaos283 (Nov 9, 2002)

caprice on dz said:


> I wonder if this would work its made for forklifts and rated for 48 volts and offered in a 175amp or 350amp version, looks like it could be mounted low on the side of the console and be able to be pulled with one hand quickly
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANDERSON-CONNECTORS-CONTACTS-SB175A-600V-1-0AWG-BLUE-/140539599491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b8d01a83


These are actually a pain to disconnect, you got to yank it pretty hard or jiggle it until it comes loose. Not quick for sure.


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

caprice on dz said:


> So the way you have it wired, if I were to get a run on, if I flip the switch in the car even though the one in the trunk is connected it will still cut the power?


Yes


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## umlolo (Nov 5, 2001)

caprice on dz said:


> now I see where I was confused, you actually ran the in car switch in line with the trunk disconnect, I was thinking they were seperate. It looks like you wired the batteries like me except I ran the pumps to the driver side end battery but all in all should be the same


Yes


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

caprice on dz said:


> I wonder if this would work its made for forklifts and rated for 48 volts and offered in a 175amp or 350amp version, looks like it could be mounted low on the side of the console and be able to be pulled with one hand quickly
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANDERSON-CO...491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b8d01a83


I prefer these. You can also buy a handle for them. I'm using one of these in my Caddy. I made a bracket for it that mounts it between the door and seat. Allows me to pull it with one hand if needed. They are a tight connection but are still better than have to use 2 hands to twist and pull the other style apart. The other big plus on these is that the arc will be shielded by the housing to prevent burns.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

The pic makes it look like it sticks into my seating are but it doesn't. I use to swear by doing disconnects in the trunk but after doing this one I won't go back to using the one in the trunk as the primary disconnect.
It's so much nicer not having to go to the trunk everytime I get in and out of the car. Plus I can take the handle with me for added security.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

OUTHOPU said:


> The pic makes it look like it sticks into my seating are but it doesn't. I use to swear by doing disconnects in the trunk but after doing this one I won't go back to using the one in the trunk as the primary disconnect.
> It's so much nicer not having to go to the trunk everytime I get in and out of the car. Plus I can take the handle with me for added security.


That's a great idea, one of the best so far. Good one OUTHOPU !

here is mine, it disconnects all power, in the trunk.
http://hydros.biz/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=7e04f5fc86ad777bb93cb71fe25eb067&topic=202.0


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## chrisdizzle (Jul 18, 2010)

OUTHOPU said:


> The pic makes it look like it sticks into my seating are but it doesn't. I use to swear by doing disconnects in the trunk but after doing this one I won't go back to using the one in the trunk as the primary disconnect.
> It's so much nicer not having to go to the trunk everytime I get in and out of the car. Plus I can take the handle with me for added security.



I'm with you on the added security but I wouldn't want that big ass thing on the side of my seat


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

OUTHOPU said:


> The pic makes it look like it sticks into my seating are but it doesn't. I use to swear by doing disconnects in the trunk but after doing this one I won't go back to using the one in the trunk as the primary disconnect.
> It's so much nicer not having to go to the trunk everytime I get in and out of the car. Plus I can take the handle with me for added security.


So the peice attached to the seat, does one cable go to the negative post on the battery and the other to the cars frame?


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## kaos283 (Nov 9, 2002)

Props for the install. Well tought for sure.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

caprice on dz said:


> So the peice attached to the seat, does one cable go to the negative post on the battery and the other to the cars frame?


It's just a big loop from the trunk. One cable feeds back to ground of battery #1 and the other goes to the rack/frame. I've seen these on large floor buffers and forklifts. I've never used one on a hydro setup because of how they kind of stick when they're new and once worn they seem almost too loose.


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## 64_EC_STYLE (Feb 21, 2005)

caprice on dz said:


> Or does it come down to personal preference? I about the juice my daily driver with 2 pumps and 4 batteries. I'm in the car for about 30-40 hours & 200-400 miles a week.


Under the seat homie. Run the cable from the rack up to under your seat, then the other half drill a hole in the floor, and bolt it to your frame. Like said before do NOT bolt it to your seat, noids will stick a lot


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## 64_EC_STYLE (Feb 21, 2005)

caprice on dz said:


> I wonder if this would work its made for forklifts and rated for 48 volts and offered in a 175amp or 350amp version, looks like it could be mounted low on the side of the console and be able to be pulled with one hand quickly
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANDERSON-CONNECTORS-CONTACTS-SB175A-600V-1-0AWG-BLUE-/140539599491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b8d01a83



That's a clean setup!


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Hydros said:


> That's a great idea, one of the best so far. Good one OUTHOPU !
> 
> here is mine, it disconnects all power, in the trunk.
> http://hydros.biz/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=7e04f5fc86ad777bb93cb71fe25eb067&topic=202.0


Thanks. I've done one under the seat also but like this set up a lot more.



chrisdizzle said:


> I'm with you on the added security but I wouldn't want that big ass thing on the side of my seat


It's not even noticable when the door is closed and I always remove it before I get out of the car. Without the handle it's not so bulky, and you can just use the cable loop as a handle then.



cashmoneyspeed said:


> It's just a big loop from the trunk. One cable feeds back to ground of battery #1 and the other goes to the rack/frame.


Thats how I have mine ran.



kaos283 said:


> Props for the install. Well tought for sure.


Thanks.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

OUTHOPU said:


> It's not even noticable when the door is closed and I always remove it before I get out of the car. Without the handle it's not so bulky, and you can just use the cable loop as a handle then.
> 
> Thanks.



You can also use that handle to knock some sucker off his feet.  Make it nice and thick. Later the cops will ban it too.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

Where can you buy it with the handle? And is there a certain amount of volts to run through it or just basic lay n play?


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> Where can you buy it with the handle? And is there a certain amount of volts to run through it or just basic lay n play?


I found it in ebay searching for "anderson connector". Accoriding to their website the different colors mean different ratings. 
http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/waytek-inc-1307/anderson-connectors-4625/page-1.html


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

caprice on dz said:


> I found it in ebay searching for "anderson connector". Accoriding to their website the different colors mean different ratings.
> http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/waytek-inc-1307/anderson-connectors-4625/page-1.html


Cool thanks for the info..ill search ebay then as well.


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> Cool thanks for the info..ill search ebay then as well.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/130427525242?redirect=mobile

Reasonably priced and I think I saw the handles listed too


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

caprice on dz said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/130427525242?redirect=mobile
> 
> Reasonably priced and I think I saw the handles listed too


Got a question..on the size of cable. If im running 96v to the nose, 8 batteries total in the trunk, What size is recommended or the proper size cable to use for the disconnect?


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

~87Limited~ said:


> Got a question..on the size of cable. If im running 96v to the nose, 8 batteries total in the trunk, What size is recommended or the proper size cable to use for the disconnect?


Couldnt tell ya on that one, Im onl running a 48 volt lift and lay


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

caprice on dz said:


> Couldnt tell ya on that one, Im onl running a 48 volt lift and lay


Ok cool cool...


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

I use 1/0. I go bigger on the cable just in case.


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## Anson72 (Nov 20, 2007)

64_EC_STYLE said:


> Under the seat homie. Run the cable from the rack up to under your seat, then the other half drill a hole in the floor, and bolt it to your frame. Like said before do NOT bolt it to your seat, noids will stick a lot


When i got my ls it had it to the seat post and still is almost 3 years later, no problems. I probably will run the ground back to the rack soon though when i get new carpet.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

The Anderson connectors are rated by amperage. the 175 is most common for our use. They do make a higher amp unit but it's huge. All sizes are available in different colors. Color doesn't dictate rating the model number does.

Here is a link to a good site for info and specs on all their products.
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/


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## caprice on dz (Jan 17, 2002)

OUTHOPU said:


> The Anderson connectors are rated by amperage. the 175 is most common for our use. They do make a higher amp unit but it's huge. All sizes are available in different colors. Color doesn't dictate rating the model number does.
> 
> Here is a link to a good site for info and specs on all their products.
> http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/


:thumbsup:


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## L-BOOGIE (Jul 19, 2006)

CokeZero said:


> I spent $320 for wire just to wire up my batts and noids. No way I'm buying more to run the DC all the way under the seat. Too expensive , we have trunk pops


 Damn what do you have 20 batteries and five pumps.


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## The_Golden_One (Sep 28, 2003)

For those who like the "one handed" snatch approach, this is my set up. Found the bottom piece at a welding supply shop.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

The_Golden_One said:


> For those who like the "one handed" snatch approach, this is my set up. Found the bottom piece at a welding supply shop.
> View attachment 620804


Should the male connect to the battery itself be the female end??


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## The_Golden_One (Sep 28, 2003)

Hydros said:


> Should the male connect to the battery itself be the female end??


For safety reasons, you are 100% correct, it should be a female end. This is my current setup. I will be upgrading my entire system (from 2 pumps 10 batts to 3 pumps 14 batts) and will change over to the female end because obvious reasons. Good eye, though.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Attaching it to the seat mount bolt is not an ideal ground. The body is isolated from the frame by the body mounts, which then causes the ground to hunt for a path and causes more resistance and potential for problems.


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## The_Golden_One (Sep 28, 2003)

OUTHOPU said:


> Attaching it to the seat mount bolt is not an ideal ground. The body is isolated from the frame by the body mounts, which then causes the ground to hunt for a path and causes more resistance and potential for problems.


Correct again. With the new setup I'm doing, I'll be creating a jumper from the seat mount directly to the frame.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

OUTHOPU said:


> The Anderson connectors are rated by amperage. the 175 is most common for our use. They do make a higher amp unit but it's huge. All sizes are available in different colors. Color doesn't dictate rating the model number does.
> 
> Here is a link to a good site for info and specs on all their products.
> http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/


So the 175 would be ok if it were 96volts to the nose?


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

The_Golden_One said:


> For safety reasons, you are 100% correct, it should be a female end. This is my current setup. I will be upgrading my entire system (from 2 pumps 10 batts to 3 pumps 14 batts) and will change over to the female end because obvious reasons. Good eye, though.


Good eye my eye! How could any emglish prefessor even know what I was saying. (spell check was not used this time) 
_Should the male connect to the battery itself be the female end??_
What the hell does that mean!


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

~87Limited~ said:


> So the 175 would be ok if it were 96volts to the nose?


It should be fine. Your only going to be doing short bursts of power through it. They are rated for 175amp continuos use in industrial applications.


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## 71_MonteCarlo (Sep 18, 2012)

cashmoneyspeed said:


> Try welding supply.com or a local welding supply store next time. That's a rediculous amount on cable. I spent about half that on 2/0 wire, terminal lugs, and 7 noids for a 6 batt/3 pump setup.
> 
> Disconnect in trunk. When there's a problem I've always seen a giant blue spark come out the disconnect when you pull it. I'd rather not have that happen next to seat n carpet.


Good looking out on the weldingsupply.com link. That place is the cheapest I've seen for any wire or ends.


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## regallowlow187 (Apr 8, 2003)

Under the seat for me from now on.... Had mine in the trunk, crusing down a busy ass street when my rear switch stuck and the back just kept raising until I could get off the busy road and get to the trunk, needless to say fucked up my whole rear suspension, ripped off rear trailing arm. Never had this kind of issue before and is just basic lay and play too :angry:


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

Under the seat for me.


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## 898949 (Jun 29, 2012)

regallowlow187 said:


> Under the seat for me from now on.... Had mine in the trunk, crusing down a busy ass street when my rear switch stuck and the back just kept raising until I could get off the busy road and get to the trunk, needless to say fucked up my whole rear suspension, ripped off rear trailing arm. Never had this kind of issue before and is just basic lay and play too :angry:


What cause it, a bad switch?


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## Ezaya760 (Sep 29, 2011)

OUTHOPU said:


> Attaching it to the seat mount bolt is not an ideal ground. The body is isolated from the frame by the body mounts, which then causes the ground to hunt for a path and causes more resistance and potential for problems.


If you have it under the seat will it drain the batts faster kus the current has to travel all the way from the trunk to the front???


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

If ur gonna put the disconnect up to the front area. I'd suggest running the ground part thru the floor pan and bolt it to the cars frame.


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## Dumps (Jan 7, 2002)

Ezaya760 said:


> If you have it under the seat will it drain the batts faster kus the current has to travel all the way from the trunk to the front???


In a way, it can. 
The difference is cable size. The longer the run, the larger the wire needed.


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## moorevisual (May 14, 2009)

OUTHOPU said:


> The pic makes it look like it sticks into my seating are but it doesn't. I use to swear by doing disconnects in the trunk but after doing this one I won't go back to using the one in the trunk as the primary disconnect.
> It's so much nicer not having to go to the trunk everytime I get in and out of the car. Plus I can take the handle with me for added security.


I really like this, although I'll go with a different placement. Ordering one now. Thanks for posting.


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

KINGFISH_CUSTOMS said:


> If ur gonna put the disconnect up to the front area. I'd suggest running the ground part thru the floor pan and bolt it to the cars frame.


:thumbsup: Ive always ran it this way on my daily's.......trunk disconnects imo are for hoppers.............I also found this vid on youtube that would be good if done right and wired to your main battery (to an dual action actuator) and not your hydraulic pump(like in the vid)......


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