# 2 stage flake jobs



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

does anyone have any pictures of 2 stage metal flake paint jobs? of course the candy paint metal flake paint is going to look better but what does a 2 stage metal flake paint job look like? I am going to spray my 65 in a few days metal flake, I can spray candy or 2 stage but wanted to see if there was a lot of difference. im pretty sure im going to go candy but still want to see what the other looks like. thanks guys


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

colors im doing


----------



## backyard64 (Feb 4, 2012)

damn that's a lot of flake homie that shits gana look good


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

thanks backyard, got a lot but found out im going to end up using less than half. but I cant wait to spray it, very anxious I know its going to look good =)


----------



## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

be careful wet sanding over that flake, you can easily burn through and expose the silver under it...


----------



## backyard64 (Feb 4, 2012)

if u want to sell some lmk I ve been practicing with it lately


----------



## Bigbrian1 (May 14, 2010)

I think 3 of those 1 lb. bags will fully flake the whole car even the jams, hood and trunk.


----------



## lowdeville (Jul 24, 2004)

Bigbrian1 said:


> I think 3 of those 1 lb. bags will fully flake the whole car even the jams, hood and trunk.


with ease,100% coverage too


----------



## DETONATER (Aug 3, 2009)

Just a heads up, I didn't over sell him.. the bags were from another seller.. jars are Sparkle Efx...


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

thanks guys, and yea the jars were from sparke efx but I got the bags of flake from a seller going out of business and was liquidation his supplies. and yea bigbrian, I know I wont use all of it, I think it might be more than what they told me it was they are big fat bags packed tight except for the bag I opened and are heavy. when I saw these flakes, I actually thought they were the same color as the ones in the jars, that's the color I really wanted that's why I bought that color flake from sparkle efx but when the bags arrived they were a darker blue so now I have to go with a darker blue and use the lighter blue for patterns. and hoss when I wet sand im going to be sure I shoot extra clear over to make sure I sealed them. tell me if I got this right guys. base coat, intercoat with flake, 4-6 coats of clear, wet sand, polish and buff. sound right? I never metal flaked, will be my first job but I already know how to paint so its not like ill be learning that too. this is exactly the type of look I want for my 65 



 for that, do I need a BLACK base or SILVER base? I just found out it was one of the two, was ready to buy a base coat that was exact color as the flakes, would that have worked? also do do the different patterns, lines and colors, is it just different color flakes taped and sprayed over the same base or is there any colored paint involved? and what base and clears do you guys recommend? and I made that flake buster gun to spray the flake on dry to the wet clear, is it better just mixing it into the clear and shooting it? my concourse gun has the 2.2 tip that will shoot flake. not looking for an easy way to do it, just want to do it right. thanks for the info guys


----------



## DETONATER (Aug 3, 2009)

Same color base will be fine for easier coverage. See County Blues Cadillac. Similar process. Multimix flake job there.


----------



## 1942aerosedan (Jan 12, 2005)

if you want to do it right don't use a flake buster style gun you won't get even coverage but if you want it to look half ass then by all means more power to you. Also what is a 2 stage flake job please explain ?


----------



## elspock84 (Feb 1, 2005)

1942aerosedan said:


> if you want to do it right don't use a flake buster style gun you won't get even coverage but if you want it to look half ass then by all means more power to you. Also what is a 2 stage flake job please explain ?


Amen brotha! Flake buster are shit. Also don't buy da flake bomber gun. Just go to eBay spend 40 bucks on a 2.5 tip primer gun


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

thanks detonator, will check it out right now. and 42aero what i mean by two stage is the standard base coat clear coat paint job but good paint not the stuff they use at one day paint and body. i didn't know if metal flake paint jobs only looked good with candy paint or if it could be used with standard paint because everytime you hear metal flake you hear candy paint. so it would be base, metal flake then clear on top instead of base, candy, metal flake then clear coat. and with the flake buster its not that im trying to find an easy way or cut corners, i want it to come out right. i learned not to cut corners or try to save a buck, cause youll just end up having to do the job again and with this job being a big job im not trying to screw it up and redo the whole thing. its cause i heard its easier to do with the flake buster because you have "control" over the flake going in the paint, but i saw a video of them using one and it looked blotchy and did some spots more flake than others. when you spray it mixed into the clear it comes out even every time? its what i want and trying to get. i bought the concours gun and all the tips they made for it, 1.2, 1.4, 1.8 and 2.2 and i seen the work that gun does, so far sprays perfect i done a few jobs already with it and hasn't let me down yet its this one http://www.eastwood.com/Concours-guns4 and i got theyre biggest needle and tip, the 2.2 http://www.eastwood.com/2-2mm-cap-needle-nozzle-for-concours-gun.html i haven't used the tip and needle yet but it says itll spray bedliner, filler and heavy primer. is it going to be to small still? im using .015 flake. if its too small still i have no problem buying the 2.5 tip primer gun.


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

this is the 2.2 tip










































here it is closer up to the flake














man that shit gets everywhere, all i did was open the bag


----------



## elspock84 (Feb 1, 2005)

this helped me alot yrs ago when i was started fucking around wit flake. 

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/23-paint-body/25902-step-step-flake-icepearl-job.html


----------



## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

spray that shit with clear, don't use intercoat,
1.4-1.8 will work spraying that flake 2.2 is overkill...


----------



## WD68_Revenge (Oct 3, 2013)

Sata 1.4 is good for a .004 size flake. Id use intercoat, you an layer and fill the amount flake you want instead of piling all that clear and having to cut and then respray.


----------



## thesnowgod (Mar 2, 2012)

I've been shooting flake in intercoat. Specifically DBC 500 from PPG. You can shoot the flake in clear but I figure why bother? DBC (or any intercoat) is much cheaper and less film build. Shoot your base color. Allow it to flash off. Then mix up your flake in intercoat, mix enough for the whole job. You don't want to just throw in some flake, spray the car, run out and then have to remix and HOPE ya got the ratios right. 

Personally, I like to shoot some flake (mixed in intercoat) over the basecoat. Then I switch to just plain intercoat for a coat over the flake, then I go back to flake over that and sort of go back and forth a little to add a little depth to the job.

Once it's done, since you're using colored flake just switch over the clear. Do three coats (one light, two medium) then let it cure fully. Wetsand (being SUPER careful not to burn through or your blue flake will turn silver in the split second). You won't get it sanded flat that first time so don't even try. Do two or three more coats of clear. Allow it to cure. Wetsand it flat and smooth now. You should have enough to protect it. Then flowcoat (basically a heavy smooth coat of clear). Bam. You're done.

Check with Detonator and Spock's posts using a search. Those guys have some serious skills and experience with flake. Read, read, read on here and you should do fine. It's how I did it!  Good luck. Can't wait to see it done.


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

elspock84 said:


> this helped me alot yrs ago when i was started fucking around wit flake.
> 
> http://www.layitlow.com/forums/23-paint-body/25902-step-step-flake-icepearl-job.html


 you got really good, that's why I asked you about it. I was at the Pomona swapmeet this weekend saw a few flake paint jobs with micro flake, and it looked GOOD. thanks for the link, has a lot of info.


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

Hoss805 said:


> spray that shit with clear, don't use intercoat,
> 1.4-1.8 will work spraying that flake 2.2 is overkill...


 I was told to use intercoat or "bond" something like that because it dries quicker and less chance of a drip. that once you drip you might as well sand it all back down and start over. again im not looking for an easy way or cut corners i just want it right. i was also told to put lug nuts or large nuts inside the gun paint can to help with the mixing inside. and to pull out the filter which i already knew. also that the metal flake its small coats not a huge wet coat. ofcourse im going to use a test panel, but i start in a week


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

WD68_Revenge said:


> Sata 1.4 is good for a .004 size flake. Id use intercoat, you an layer and fill the amount flake you want instead of piling all that clear and having to cut and then respray.


 you can cut a metal flake layer? i thougth i had to spray clear over the last metal flake coat to seal the flake good before i can take any sand paper to it. well its what i was told. thanks for the info tho, so my 2.2 should be fine then


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

thesnowgod said:


> I've been shooting flake in intercoat. Specifically DBC 500 from PPG. You can shoot the flake in clear but I figure why bother? DBC (or any intercoat) is much cheaper and less film build. Shoot your base color. Allow it to flash off. Then mix up your flake in intercoat, mix enough for the whole job. You don't want to just throw in some flake, spray the car, run out and then have to remix and HOPE ya got the ratios right.
> 
> Personally, I like to shoot some flake (mixed in intercoat) over the basecoat. Then I switch to just plain intercoat for a coat over the flake, then I go back to flake over that and sort of go back and forth a little to add a little depth to the job.
> 
> ...


 cool, i get you thanks =) what grit sand paper do you use when sanding clear that's going to have more clear sprayed over it? when you sand clear it hazes it, will the haze show under the next layer of clear coat? do you get what im saying? ive wet sanded the last coat of clear and it hazed it where you couldn't really see the color or woodgrain under it then after i cut and buffed it went clear. if i spray clear over that haze after i cut and buff that last layer wont it just show the hazed layer under it?


----------



## WD68_Revenge (Oct 3, 2013)

No No, I think your mis understanding. You can shoot your flake in intercoat which is the way to do this, then you lay your clear and then cut your clear and lay your flow coat. I use a high solid clear which will cost you a bit more then normal clear but its worth it. Thicker and gives you that ultra shine and depth. And yes you have to spray clear over your last coat of flake. I just wouldint shoot the flake in clear.



GALLO 59 said:


> you can cut a metal flake layer? i thougth i had to spray clear over the last metal flake coat to seal the flake good before i can take any sand paper to it. well its what i was told. thanks for the info tho, so my 2.2 should be fine then


----------



## lowdeville (Jul 24, 2004)

Hoss805 said:


> spray that shit with clear, don't use intercoat,
> 1.4-1.8 will work spraying that flake 2.2 is overkill...


this^2.2 will run too easily


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

Ok got it wd thanks. what is the name of the clear coat you used? The one you said has a lot of depth and shine to it.

and lowdeVille, would 1.8 work cause I have that too. I'm going to attempt both tips on a test panel because what everybody's warning me about is a run or drip then I'm screwed


----------



## thesnowgod (Mar 2, 2012)

GALLO 59 said:


> cool, i get you thanks =) what grit sand paper do you use when sanding clear that's going to have more clear sprayed over it? when you sand clear it hazes it, will the haze show under the next layer of clear coat? do you get what im saying? ive wet sanded the last coat of clear and it hazed it where you couldn't really see the color or woodgrain under it then after i cut and buffed it went clear. if i spray clear over that haze after i cut and buff that last layer wont it just show the hazed layer under it?


I sand the clear with P600 wet. When sanding after the first round of clearcoating over the flake, go easy like I said or you'll cut into the flakes. While it isn't the end of the world, it does look crappy to see some silver specks all over the place in that sea of blue you'll have. 

I know what you mean about the "haze". After sanding the clear WILL look hazy and dull. In fact, you'll be sure you ruined it!  That's fine. Once you apply fresh clear over it, it'll gloss back up again. The additional layers of clear won't trap that hazy look. The haziness gives the surface some "tooth" or roughness to allow the next layers of clear to bond to it. You scuff it up (again, I just use P600 wet), dry it off, clean it well with wax and grease remover, tack off everything (a few times!) and immediately clear again. After the second or possibly third session of clearing (with 2-3 coats per session) you can then still wetsand and buff the final top layer if you want. Don't clear over a layer you buffed though. The clear needs that haziness to grab onto. Otherwise it'll peel up over time like dead skin off of a nasty foot! Hahaha Nice visual huh? Good luck.


----------



## lowdeville (Jul 24, 2004)

GALLO 59 said:


> Ok got it wd thanks. what is the name of the clear coat you used? The one you said has a lot of depth and shine to it.
> 
> and lowdeVille, would 1.8 work cause I have that too. I'm going to attempt both tips on a test panel because what everybody's warning me about is a run or drip then I'm screwed


I've always sprayed .015 with a 1.4 tip,flake mixed with dbc500 or clear,worked fine for me either way,I do like the intercoat better,less film build =less chance of delamination down the road.


----------



## GALLO 59 (Jan 1, 2006)

thesnowgod said:


> I sand the clear with P600 wet. When sanding after the first round of clearcoating over the flake, go easy like I said or you'll cut into the flakes. While it isn't the end of the world, it does look crappy to see some silver specks all over the place in that sea of blue you'll have.
> 
> I know what you mean about the "haze". After sanding the clear WILL look hazy and dull. In fact, you'll be sure you ruined it!  That's fine. Once you apply fresh clear over it, it'll gloss back up again. The additional layers of clear won't trap that hazy look. The haziness gives the surface some "tooth" or roughness to allow the next layers of clear to bond to it. You scuff it up (again, I just use P600 wet), dry it off, clean it well with wax and grease remover, tack off everything (a few times!) and immediately clear again. After the second or possibly third session of clearing (with 2-3 coats per session) you can then still wetsand and buff the final top layer if you want. Don't clear over a layer you buffed though. The clear needs that haziness to grab onto. Otherwise it'll peel up over time like dead skin off of a nasty foot! Hahaha Nice visual huh? Good luck.


 thanks thesnowgod that's exactly what I was concerned about. one more question, flash time. what if it gets dark or I run out of clear or something and I let it dry overnight, its still good even though its dry to spray extra coats right? and lowdeville thanks for the info. 6 more days then I get started. I might buy a pedal car this Saturday and test out everything on it instead of a piece of metal


----------



## thesnowgod (Mar 2, 2012)

That would depend on the clear you are using. Whatever brand you get, ask for a tech sheet. This will give you the specifications as to what the manufacturer recommends for dry times as well as what time windows you have to do a recoat. For example, I like to use PPG DC3000 on smaller parts like motorcycles and things. The tech sheet for that specifies that you wait 3-5 minutes between coats. A recoat (spraying clear over an already cleared surface) can be done up to 3 days later. After 3 days have elapsed, they recommend that the surface be sanded again prior to spraying.

Keep in mind, that's an example for that type of clear. Different products have totally different rules and specifications. Just follow that tech sheet and you'll do fine.


----------

