# Bondo repair bleed through



## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

I shaved my secound tailgate the other day and I welded in the filer and bondo the rest up, I sanded it with 80, then 120, then 320 primed the whole tailgate and blocked it with 320 two times, then primered it again and wet sanded it, it looked good untill I painted it and then I could see where I done the work, both of them I did looked like that what am I doing wrong???? Should I primer just the area I worked severasl times feathering it out then primer the whole thing?? I shouls have hade it right as much as I feathered it with the 120 and 320. :uh:


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## Big Doe (Feb 4, 2003)

get some better primer, also i go back over the bondo usually with a coat of evercat glaze putty. sands and feathers easy, prevents bleed-thru, and fills pin holes.


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## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Big Doe_@Mar 18 2004, 11:25 PM
> *get some better primer, also i go back over the bondo usually with a coat of evercat glaze putty. sands and feathers easy, prevents bleed-thru, and fills pin holes.*


 I forgot to mention I used glazing putty on the pin wholes, I'll post pics up in just a few, in another topic


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## KingLewi (Jul 12, 2003)

i would prime the repaired area with a couple coats first then prime the whole panel....did u use any sealer after the primer???


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

Might not have had a good cure on the primer -- I have painted over cheap laquer primer before without problems -- No sealers ...

I liked using an epoxy primer or a 2-K primer works good ,,,,, Bondo likes to swell ..... 

never know -- you might have some sweaty ass hands or something & the oils in your hands might be playing a factor in it ...... 

I have had this happen to me -- but only when I rushed things & didnt pay attention to finer details.......


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## B_A_RIDER (Nov 22, 2003)

maybe a couple thick coats of etching primer, and then a 1000 grit wetsand...


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## chaddyb (Mar 7, 2002)

make sure you use a tack cloth then wax and grease remover, and make sure you seal it before you shoot your base


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## TheGODFATHER (Dec 8, 2003)

Sounds like the Bondo is shrinking up on you. Use a better quality filler Evercoat.


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## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

> _Originally posted by TheGODFATHER_@Mar 19 2004, 06:29 PM
> *Sounds like the Bondo is shrinking up on you. Use a better quality filler Evercoat.  *


evercoat it was  , i did not use a sealer :0 



Last edited by 64 at Mar 20 2004, 08:44 AM


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

i don't get it.............

you didn't use a filler :dunno: 


i think you should use a sealer


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

> _Originally posted by B_A_RIDER_@Mar 19 2004, 02:49 AM
> *maybe a couple thick coats of etching primer, and then a 1000 grit wetsand...*


*** Self Etching primer is not supposed to be thick ........ A 2-K primer is a high build ---Not etch

____________________________________________________

You dont always need a sealer to do a paint job ... it is a good way of making the car a solid color prior to painting your base coat .... I recommend using a sealer when you do an expensive paint job like --- a semi transparent pearl base & a kandy mid coat ...... 



Last edited by STREET SWEEPAZ at Mar 20 2004, 02:29 AM


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## B_A_RIDER (Nov 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by STREET SWEEPAZ+Mar 20 2004, 01:24 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (STREET SWEEPAZ @ Mar 20 2004, 01:24 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--B_A_RIDER_@Mar 19 2004, 02:49 AM
> *maybe a couple thick coats of etching primer, and then a 1000 grit wetsand...*


*** Self Etching primer is not supposed to be thick ........ A 2-K primer is a high build ---Not etch[/b][/quote]
Why is that? I've put 3 coats on to make a thick layer of it and it worked good... Help me out here, its good to learn new things.


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

> _Originally posted by B_A_RIDER+Mar 20 2004, 02:28 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (B_A_RIDER @ Mar 20 2004, 02:28 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Why is that? I've put 3 coats on to make a thick layer of it and it worked good... Help me out here, its good to learn new things.[/b][/quote]
Its just not recomended by the manufacturer .... It dont cure as it should properly ..... It was made to be sprayed on in light coats so it can adhear to the metal better ..... You are supposed to be able to faintly see the metal thru the etch primer after you have a few coats on ........ I am at the PPG paint store just about every other day & I always leave with more knowledge of paint systems .....

-- im not always going by the book here when i paint but , You can cut corners & i cant help it if I dont get payed to do a good job .....

Light layers of Etch , followed by good coats of high build primer , guide coat & then block it out ......


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## B_A_RIDER (Nov 22, 2003)

okay cool, thanks for the info bro.


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

If im wrong on what i just said -- LMk so i can take it up with the PPG man ......... :0  :biggrin: 


i just listen & learn from those who have been there before me ....Then i go off I do something different myself just to see if it will work .........


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## B_A_RIDER (Nov 22, 2003)

It sounds logical to me now that i think about it. 

It would be better to do a light coat of etching primer then dp40 over it... thats what i do anyways but i think i get alittle out of control with the etching primer.


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## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Mar 19 2004, 11:31 PM
> *i don't get it.............
> 
> you didn't use a filler :dunno:
> ...


 yeah I'm so good i didn't have to use a filler just the old welder,lol 

you cought that one switch, i did mean sealer :biggrin:


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## lil deville (Jan 14, 2002)

you need an epoxy type primer (2 part) and a sealer coat


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## IndianaRyder (Nov 16, 2003)

Are you hand sanding or using a boardfile?


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 64+Mar 20 2004, 02:45 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (64 @ Mar 20 2004, 02:45 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--SWITCHCRAFT_@Mar 19 2004, 11:31 PM
> *i don't get it.............
> 
> you didn't use a filler :dunno:
> ...


yeah I'm so good i didn't have to use a filler just the old welder,lol 

you cought that one switch, i did mean sealer :biggrin:[/b][/quote]
oh now i get it........lol




oh and ba rider.....self etch primer is only used to promote adhesion on bare metal it is NOT to be used as a fill primer


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## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

> _Originally posted by IndianaRyder_@Mar 20 2004, 07:03 PM
> *Are you hand sanding or using a boardfile?*


 i used board first then hand sanded the edges


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## IndianaRyder (Nov 16, 2003)

When you say you can see the bodywork...can you see the square where the handle used to be or where you laid the mud?


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by IndianaRyder_@Mar 21 2004, 09:48 AM
> *When you say you can see the bodywork...can you see the square where the handle used to be or where you laid the mud?*


 Thats what it sounds like, bleed through is when the benzyle-peroxide color shows through ( bleed through). Sounds like you didn't feather the origional substrate back far enough. I feather everything 2-6 " depending on the thickness of the origional paint. I use the 1/2-1" feather per layer or paint rule, meaning that if you got 3 layers, then you should be back at least 3" from the edge of the filler. If you are having problems still I would santhe primer right down to the filler, then Use Evercoats Metal glaze filler over the whole low area, and feather it into the paint, its designed for that.


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

the body shop i worked at over the summer always topped bondo off with a good glaze


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## /\Chris/\ (Jul 23, 2003)

I always top my work off with glazing putty and it seems to fill in all the scratches and make it a good surface for the primer. If you use glazing putty make sure the bondo has no dust left on it though or it will lift and crack in certain areas. I know I dident help much but iv never had a problem with bleed thorugh.  Goodluck, CHris 



Last edited by /\Chris/\ at Mar 21 2004, 02:39 PM


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## 64 (Jan 4, 2002)

what I did was grinded the paint from around the hole about 6 inches then wleded in the pam=nel grinded it down and layed some mud over the lows, I sanded it and after that I had about a four inches around the area that was down to the metal from sanding, I primered the whole tailgate then bloked it off, I still could see the edge of the mudded area so I hand feathered it back, I primered it again and it looked goo untill I put the paint and clear on it, then you could see the edge around the mud.


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## IndianaRyder (Nov 16, 2003)

After ive done my bodywork, when im whipping it down...i always spray the pre-cleaner (cp-90) on real heavy and stand to the side to see what it looks like wet. Usually helps me out a bunch....especially on flat surfaces. Usually the only time filler shows thru is when you apply paint directly over it. But if you primed it after the mudwork...it shouldnt do it..unless the work is high.


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 64_@Mar 22 2004, 02:23 PM
> *what I did was grinded the paint from around the hole about 6 inches then wleded in the pam=nel grinded it down and layed some mud over the lows, I sanded it and after that I had about a four inches around the area that was down to the metal from sanding, I primered the whole tailgate then bloked it off, I still could see the edge of the mudded area so I hand feathered it back, I primered it again and it looked goo untill I put the paint and clear on it, then you could see the edge around the mud.*


 you guys need to learn to use MAR GLASS whenever you make a "patch" repair


use the glass first then the regular filler


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## Illustrious Auto Works (Oct 5, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Mar 22 2004, 07:34 PM
> *you guys need to learn to use MAR GLASS whenever you make a "patch" repair
> 
> 
> use the glass first then the regular filler*


 :thumbsup: Strand filler is stronger and water proof... its a must over spot welded seams.....

Drew


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## chaddyb (Mar 7, 2002)

> _Originally posted by B_A_RIDER_@Mar 20 2004, 10:56 AM
> *It sounds logical to me now that i think about it.
> 
> It would be better to do a light coat of etching primer then dp40 over it... thats what i do anyways but i think i get alittle out of control with the etching primer.*


 k36 works really well as a surfacer, its thick as hell


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## bounce n OH (Oct 23, 2003)

try using a barrier coat ,you are mixing to much hardener in


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by Illustrious Auto Works+Mar 22 2004, 08:34 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Illustrious Auto Works @ Mar 22 2004, 08:34 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--SWITCHCRAFT_@Mar 22 2004, 07:34 PM
> *you guys need to learn to use MAR GLASS   whenever you make a "patch" repair
> 
> 
> use the glass first then the regular filler*


:thumbsup: Strand filler is stronger and water proof... its a must over spot welded seams.....

Drew[/b][/quote]
its not waterproof, but its close. Evercoat Metal to Metal is the best to use, and its thinner and easier to spread!, to do it properly you really should epoxy the area first, then fill, then primer surfacer!


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## sabre (May 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by skandalouz+Mar 24 2004, 04:49 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (skandalouz @ Mar 24 2004, 04:49 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
> 
> 
> 
> ...


its not waterproof, but its close. Evercoat Metal to Metal is the best to use, and its thinner and easier to spread!, to do it properly you really should epoxy the area first, then fill, then primer surfacer![/b][/quote]
dead right  .. Epoxy - filler - primer/highfill - paint ..


and if your paintin out backyard you might wanna also try a faster thinner to stop soakin/swellin and shrinkage if that's your problem. 



Last edited by sabre at Mar 24 2004, 05:04 PM


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