# I KEEP BLOWING SOLENOIDS OUT



## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

IF ANY ONE CAN HELP PLEASE DO. HERE WHAT I HAVE 2 PUMPS 4 DUMPS WITH 6 GROUP 31'S.AND FOUR SOLENOIDS TO EACH PUMP. CAN'T SOLVE THIS PROBLEM.


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## EIGHT BALL (May 10, 2004)

low battery is #1 problem 98 percent of the time.
then having a good ground to the rack, not just to the hold down bolts. clean mounts for the pumps, such as ground down to bare metal where the pumps sit. and bad wiring to the solenoids. check to be sure your on the 24 volt side of batteries for the switch box.

alot of guys who thinnk they know it all mess around and have the switch wire on 36 or even 48 volts and smoke solenoids and switches like crazy too.

please be more specific of your set up and possibly pics.


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

THANKS, I WILL LOAD TEST MY BATTERIES,TO CHECK TO SEE IF ONE IS BAD


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## 1987regal (Sep 21, 2005)

Ground


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## KILL4FAYGO (Jan 13, 2006)

USE RELAYS AND AND A LITTLE TERMINAL BLOCK .. I SEE LOTTA PEEPS DONT USE RELAYS IN THE WIRING.. IT MAKES STUFF REACT A LOT FASTER AND LIKE SAID ABOVE COULD BE THE GROUND? its ahrd to see the relays in the poic but theres 4 of them 2 on each side of the solenoids.. heres a pic 








if you do it like this you dont get that power loss i can hit my switches and hear my solenoids kick in even if batts are hella low.. now remind you im new to hydros this is my first setup so i may be wrong.. but im trying to help.


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

a never failing setup for me, 2 pumps, 6 batts, if thats 3 batts per pump run 3 solenoids to each motor, and thats 3 identical solenoids!

and keep ALL your batts charged evenly.


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

you shouldnt need the relays, the solenoid IS the relay.


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## KILL4FAYGO (Jan 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Feb 24 2006, 10:19 PM~4923762
> *you shouldnt need the relays, the solenoid IS the relay.
> *


y a i know they are but you get that delayed reaction like if someone doesent use relays on a door popper and it take sa few seconds for it to pop ur holding down the remote on the alarm.. but with relays it pops right away.. i dont know why like i d=said im new and the guys at hoppos said i did it the right way,, he just usuallly doesent tell peeps to do it with solenoids becaus they cant figure out the wiring. how many wires you got to the front of your car for switches. i just run the 10 wires inside the black cable no extra power wires run..... i dunno i lost myself a few sentences ago.. i need a bongtoke


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## lowered_impression (Dec 3, 2005)

lol werd uffin: Wish I could share some BC bud with you guys


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## jerryshydraulics (Nov 26, 2005)

Run a extra noid to open the front 4 that gives you more power right from the batts.And run a short ground to the rack that should fix your problem thats only if you are running good noids and of your batts are all good.


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## LA FAMILIA C.C. (Jun 30, 2004)

> _Originally posted by KILL4FAYGO_@Feb 25 2006, 12:13 AM~4923711
> *USE RELAYS AND  AND  A LITTLE TERMINAL BLOCK .. I SEE LOTTA PEEPS DONT USE RELAYS IN THE WIRING.. IT MAKES STUFF REACT A LOT FASTER  AND  LIKE SAID ABOVE COULD BE THE GROUND? its ahrd to see the relays in the poic but theres 4 of them  2 on each side of the solenoids.. heres a pic
> 
> 
> ...


looks like some arroz con pollo how are you runnign the relays?


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## Big Baller 82cutty (Feb 1, 2004)

Same autozone selenoids for almost 3 years and no problems still with 48 volts the key is to keep your batteries charged.


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## Infamous James (Nov 20, 2005)

Run one 60 volt Lona and Sons solenoid to each bank of three or four batteries.(2 total for you)..but use a standard 12v solenoid as a switch to turn on the Lona...I run 48 volts all day and never stuck a 60v...however i have stuck one without using a standard solenoid as a switch to turn on the 60v...got it? Parts run about 60.00 per 60volt Lona...If you want chrome they are a little more...total investment 120.00 plus two new standard 12v like the ones you already have...no more problems


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

I;M MEESING WITH IT NOW, TAKING THE SOLENOIDS OUT AND TESTING THEM


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## vegascutty (Jul 14, 2005)

i keep blowing mine too but i have the blocks. my batt rack is welded to my frame, the batts were checked and r ok.


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## unforgiven50insp (Nov 6, 2005)




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## KILL4FAYGO (Jan 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by LA FAMILIA C.C._@Feb 25 2006, 08:50 AM~4925413
> *looks like some arroz con pollo how are you runnign the relays?
> *


i dont know i had my computer buddy do the wiring for me he said he had a 2 pump 8 dump setup all planned out in his head when i told him i wanted hydros.. and he wasnt bullshittin because it workes great.. ill ask him a few basics when i see him .. he might be part of this forum as a matter of fact he would be BJL84 thats his name.. sorry im no help.. and my spanish isnt good but looks like rice and chicken..lol all i know is this is the wite way


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

load tested all batts all good.front and back work fine but,when i hit side to side they blow or get hot as hell.


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## DavyFromSC (Jan 7, 2002)

Can you take some detailed pics of battery and solenoid wiring.


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## layzeeboi (Sep 12, 2002)

i had this problem.. it was a bad ground. cleaned off the metal where the solonoids go, and changed the ground wire to 2/0. no problems now.


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JUICEDLUDE_@Mar 4 2006, 02:56 PM~4976245
> *Can you take some detailed pics of battery and solenoid wiring.
> *


ill take some today after work


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JUICEDLUDE_@Mar 4 2006, 02:56 PM~4976245
> *Can you take some detailed pics of battery and solenoid wiring.
> *


ok, here they are


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## DavyFromSC (Jan 7, 2002)

Where does the chassis part of the ground connect to? And you said front and back work fine just sides are screwy. Sounds like it could be a battery voltage or ground problem. When you hit front or back you're only using one pump, when you hit sides you're using both pumps, which means double the load and amperage needed. oh and you might wanna put screws in all the solenoid holes to the rack to guarantee a good ground.


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## Cali-m-pala (Dec 4, 2005)

could be as simple as cleaning oil out from under em,,,,,,everything else has pretty much been covered,,,,,and yeah they will go out from that ....


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## Cali-m-pala (Dec 4, 2005)

but from the pic u need to sand the paint from under em and bolt all sides down make sure your pump blocks are also clean underneath on unpainted metal


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by JUICEDLUDE_@Mar 5 2006, 07:09 AM~4979607
> *Where does the chassis part of the ground connect to? And you said front and back work fine just sides are screwy. Sounds like it could be a battery voltage or ground problem. When you hit front or back you're only using one pump, when you hit sides you're using both pumps, which means double the load and amperage needed. oh and you might wanna put screws in all the solenoid holes to the rack to guarantee a good ground.
> *


I'll do that next I will sand the underbottoms of the solenoids and check my grounds again


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Cali-m-pala_@Mar 5 2006, 09:02 AM~4979903
> *but from the pic u need to sand the paint from under em and bolt all sides down make sure your pump blocks are also clean underneath on unpainted metal
> *


I will take my pumps out and sand underneath the pumps also, I will try anything at this point


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## 6sIxx3ThReE (Dec 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by big9er_@Feb 25 2006, 03:44 PM~4926838
> *I;M MEESING WITH IT NOW, TAKING THE SOLENOIDS OUT AND TESTING THEM
> *


How do you test solenoids?? my front got stuck and my motor was smokin all i hear now are clickings but no lift?? could it be solenoids or motor? How do you test the noids?


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 6sIxx3ThReE!!_@Mar 6 2006, 09:49 PM~4991612
> *How do you test solenoids?? my front got stuck and my motor was smokin all i hear now are clickings but no lift?? could it be solenoids or motor? How do you test the noids?
> *


I TOOK MINE OUT AN DISCONNECTED ALL OF THEM,AND ONE BY ONE TESTED THEM BY EITHER SHAKING THEM TO SEE IF I HEARD A RATTLING NOISE,IF IT RATTLED ITS BAD THE OTHER WAY WAS I GOT SOME JUMPER CABLES AND HOOKED THEM UP TO ONE OF MY BATTS AND HOOKED THE GROUND WIRE TO THE GROUND OF THE SOLENOID AND TAP THE HOT TO THE "S" TERMINAL TO SEE IF IT CLICKS OR NOT.IF IT CLICKS ITS GOOD AND IF IT DONT IT ISN'T. I TRIED THE VOLT METER METHOD BUT IT DIDNT WORK FOR ME.


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## thephatlander (Nov 27, 2004)

Doesnt matter if it clicks it can still be bad... the best way is 2 check if they are clicking at all! And then hold the switch and check all the + cables between the noids so u know that electricity is coming 2 that motor.. And if it does.. the motor is broken.. Btw throw them bolts away and weld them noids 2 the rack, best ground u can get!


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## Guest (Mar 7, 2006)

> *big9er Posted Today, 09:07 AM
> QUOTE(6sIxx3ThReE!! @ Mar 6 2006, 09:49 PM)
> How do you test solenoids?? my front got stuck and my motor was smokin all i hear now are clickings but no lift?? could it be solenoids or motor? How do you test the noids?
> 
> ...


 sorry bro but thats just some crazy shit right there


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## enough_talkin (Aug 25, 2003)

> _Originally posted by KILL4FAYGO_@Feb 25 2006, 12:13 AM~4923711
> *USE RELAYS AND  AND  A LITTLE TERMINAL BLOCK .. I SEE LOTTA PEEPS DONT USE RELAYS IN THE WIRING.. IT MAKES STUFF REACT A LOT FASTER  AND  LIKE SAID ABOVE COULD BE THE GROUND? its ahrd to see the relays in the poic but theres 4 of them  2 on each side of the solenoids.. heres a pic
> 
> 
> ...


are you running your solenoids at 24v...i have never noticed any delays...the second i tap the switch my motors are turning


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## 6sIxx3ThReE (Dec 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by thephatlander_@Mar 7 2006, 10:31 AM~4993572
> *Doesnt matter if it clicks it can still be bad... the best way is 2 check if they are clicking at all! And then hold the switch and check all the + cables between the noids so u know that electricity is coming 2 that motor.. And if it does.. the motor is broken.. Btw throw them bolts away and weld them noids 2 the rack, best ground u can get!
> *


So ever time a solenoid goes bad im gonna have to torch it off since its welded??


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## unforgiven50insp (Nov 6, 2005)

> _Originally posted by 6sIxx3ThReE!!_@Mar 7 2006, 05:50 PM~4996295
> *So ever time a solenoid goes bad im gonna have to torch it off since its welded??
> *


Don't ever weld your solenoids to the rack. Thats some of the stupidest shit I ever heard. And whoever that shit about the jumper cable thing is pretty fuckin dumb too. You gotta be a complete idiot if you can't work a fucking volt meter. :uh: :uh: :uh: :uh:


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## 6sIxx3ThReE (Dec 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by unforgiven50insp_@Mar 7 2006, 05:07 PM~4996423
> *Don't ever weld your solenoids to the rack.  Thats some of the stupidest shit I ever heard.  And whoever that shit about the jumper cable thing is pretty fuckin dumb too.  You gotta be a complete idiot if you can't work a fucking volt meter. :uh:  :uh:  :uh:  :uh:
> *


LoL thats wut i tought :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

> _Originally posted by unforgiven50insp_@Mar 7 2006, 03:07 PM~4996423
> *Don't ever weld your solenoids to the rack.  Thats some of the stupidest shit I ever heard.  And whoever that shit about the jumper cable thing is pretty fuckin dumb too.  You gotta be a complete idiot if you can't work a fucking volt meter. :uh:  :uh:  :uh:  :uh:
> *


so,how do work a volt meter?some of us complete idiots would like to know.


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## Guest (Mar 8, 2006)

^^^ turn the volt meter to DC put the black wire on ground and touch the red wire to the pump sides of the noids hit the switch and look at the meter to see if it reads anything if it stays the same then its not getting power and the noid is bad just check each one. you can use jumber cabels to hook power up to the batt side of the noid your checking, and then a small power wire to the top of the noid. and your test meter to the pump side ..........its not that hard you can also use a test light ................ :scrutinize:


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## SLIMONTHABUMPERRRRRR (Jul 10, 2005)

> _Originally posted by KILL4FAYGO_@Feb 25 2006, 12:13 AM~4923711
> *USE RELAYS AND  AND  A LITTLE TERMINAL BLOCK .. I SEE LOTTA PEEPS DONT USE RELAYS IN THE WIRING.. IT MAKES STUFF REACT A LOT FASTER  AND  LIKE SAID ABOVE COULD BE THE GROUND? its ahrd to see the relays in the poic but theres 4 of them  2 on each side of the solenoids.. heres a pic
> 
> 
> ...


THATS BAD BIZZ HOMIE RELAYS HANG UP LIKE SOLENOIDS NOT AS OFTEN BUT THEY DO SO ONE DAY ITS GONNA COST YOU SOME CHANGE IF YOU FORGET WHAT I JUST SAID CUZ U GONNA THINK ITS THE SOLENOIDS AND ITS THE RELAYS. BUT THAT DOSEN'T MEAN YOU CANT USE THEM JUST A HEADS UP.


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## gizmoispimpin (Oct 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by KILL4FAYGO_@Feb 24 2006, 11:13 PM~4923711
> *USE RELAYS AND  AND  A LITTLE TERMINAL BLOCK .. I SEE LOTTA PEEPS DONT USE RELAYS IN THE WIRING.. IT MAKES STUFF REACT A LOT FASTER  AND  LIKE SAID ABOVE COULD BE THE GROUND? its ahrd to see the relays in the poic but theres 4 of them  2 on each side of the solenoids.. heres a pic
> 
> 
> ...



hey what is the wiring diagram for those relay's I wanna try 2 different things...1 for fan relay 2 exciter wire...Thanx


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## thephatlander (Nov 27, 2004)

having relays on doesnt make it faster.. electricity cant be faster then the speed of light. No matter how much amperes or volts it has, it always travel at the speed of light! And if u are having a powerloss run a fater cable! The only thing that can slow the amount of electricity going 2 one direction is the thickness of your cable, but its still as fast as lightning! It works the same way as if u try 2 run water thru a hose. The bigger the hole in the hose is the faster water runs thru it! But if u have a hose 2 big for the amount of water its just taking up space! And yes relays tend 2 stick after a wile.. Same as solenoids. And YES i weld mine 2 the rack and my noids never ever gets stuck, get 2 hot or burn out (well thats my little sectret!)


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## big9er (Feb 22, 2005)

I HAVE SOLVED THE PROBLEM.FIRST I REMOVED THE PUMPS AND THE SOLENOIDS AND WIRE WHEELED THE PLACE WHERE THEY WERE MOUNTED TO THE BARE METAL AND THEN REMOUNTED PUMPS AND SOLENOIDS BACK WHERE THEY WERE AND HOOKED EVERYTHING BACK UP AND PRESTO MY SHIT DOESNT BLOW ANYMORE OR GET HOT.PLAYED WITH IT FOR ABOUT AN HOUR WITH NO PROBLEM .BAD GROUNDS WAS THE PROBLEM.THANKS TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED. :biggrin: :cheesy:  :roflmao:  uffin:  :thumbsup: :wave: :rofl: :tongue:


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## 6sIxx3ThReE (Dec 24, 2005)

> _Originally posted by classic kustoms_@Mar 8 2006, 05:31 AM~5000059
> *^^^ turn the volt meter to DC put the black wire on ground and touch the red wire to the pump sides of the noids hit the switch and look at the meter to see if it reads anything if it stays the same then its not getting power and the noid is bad just check each one. you can use jumber cabels to hook power up to the batt side of the noid your checking, and then a small power wire to the top of the noid. and your test meter to the pump side ..........its not that hard you can also use a test light                    ................ :scrutinize:
> *


Yea i tryed the light tester and someone told me the tester is only 12 v runin higher would blow the bulb well in my case when i got to the last noid my light didnt blow but small shower of sparks came out of the first noid i tested when i was testin the last dont know if it wuz just a bad noid reacting or the tester did somethin?


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## Guest (Mar 12, 2006)

when using a 12 volt test light, run jumper cabels from just 1 batt to your noids and then check


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## EIGHT BALL (May 10, 2004)

another thing that will help you in the future to is get rid of the steel connectors between the solenoids, and use cables like the batteries. alot of people have bad probs from those lil connectors.


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