# bc/cc or single stage



## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

which would you guys prefer? im stuck in the middle of choosing. the single stage will be easier, but what would the quality come out like between the two? also you can cut and buff single stage right? i want it to be real black.

thanks i appreciate it. i just shot the 2k and the sealer and it came out nice, so im onto the next step.


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

deep black, low price, high quality


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

Single stage will give you better depth.
Make sure it's urethane single stage (not acrylic enamel)
You can also clear coat it just like base coat.
That's a nice combination


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## Hater Hurter (Jul 4, 2004)

and if the car is going to be outside a lot sitting in the sun make sure to get a good UV protectant clear.... most everyone will agree that single stage is the best black to go with, it will have the most depth and shine... but it doesnt hold up to the elements as well.


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by jcclark_@Aug 21 2007, 03:53 AM~8603766
> *Single stage will give you better depth.
> Make sure it's urethane single stage (not acrylic enamel)
> You can also clear coat it just like base coat.
> ...


x2, and if its going to be a driver leave it uncleared, that way its super easy to do spot repairs and little tiny scratches from like washing it wont show, because it would scratch black not white like clear  good eurathane ss wont fade


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

bc/cc


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## Dalucas00 (Dec 29, 2006)

i was just in this same situation..ss or bc/cc....i decide to get ss and i was much happier with that then bc/cc its much shinier and blacker then what i had on it...it even cuts and buff really nice i say go with ss


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

alright, i'll probally go with a ss then, i have a dupont paint shop by me, is there a spacific one that you would recommend? i was thinking nason.


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## Hater Hurter (Jul 4, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 6Deuced_@Aug 21 2007, 08:07 AM~8604353
> *x2, and if its going to be a driver leave it uncleared, that way its super easy to do spot repairs and little tiny scratches from like washing it wont show, because it would scratch black not white like clear  good eurathane ss wont fade
> *


thats good to know, thanks homie

nason is pretty cheap stuff. i havent ever personally used it, but i imagine there are better choices... im sure some of the guys on here will have better input though. i dont paint, just have rides painted and know what the guys in my bodyshop like/dislike.


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## Airborne (Oct 23, 2005)

I used Shopline (PPG) SS black and it sprayed well and buffed out like a mofo.


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## Dalucas00 (Dec 29, 2006)

the ss i used was u-tech i belive its made by sikkens or owned something...worked good for me for a nice black


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 518 Swangin+Aug 21 2007, 01:36 PM~8607580-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


nason lays down like glass and looks killer right out of the gun, but its piss thin and doesn't even compare to the quality of chromapremier, especially as far as fade, chip resistance and so on. nason is just duponts econoline paint.


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Dalucas00_@Aug 21 2007, 06:57 PM~8610727
> *the ss i used was u-tech i belive its made by sikkens or owned something...worked good for me for a nice black
> *


yes its made by sikkens, and its ok, autocryl is there better ss, dupont chromapremier is the best, and its user friendly.


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## Delo93 (Mar 31, 2005)

How much does a gallon of the Dupont Chromapremier SS black cost about... plus the activators for it?


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Delo93_@Aug 21 2007, 08:53 PM~8612014
> *How much does a gallon of the Dupont Chromapremier SS black cost about... plus the activators for it?
> *


i think around 400


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## pinche chico (Jan 29, 2007)

so you gonna single stage then sand and re clear? shopline is a good product lays shiny too, i havent used u-tech yet but heard is inexpensive as well,,,,try shopline youll love it! :thumbsup:


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## Hater Hurter (Jul 4, 2004)

i think they are talking about single stage and a buff homie, thats all


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## hotstuff5964 (Dec 9, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Hoss805_@Aug 21 2007, 02:50 AM~8603402
> *deep black, low price, high quality
> *


how are their clears?


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## UceKG (Aug 10, 2007)

i must agree with the chromapremier it is the shit. Also got a good job out of ss it letting it dry, then sanding with 800 and clearing then color sand and buff. little more work but worth it.


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

alright so i was gonna get centari since chromapremier was more than i wanted to spend, but they didnt have it in a urethane. so i got the nason ss instead. we shot that after we adjusted the gun and the 1st 2 coats laid like glass, we shot 2 more and we had some orange peel. we also got a few small bugs in it, but otherwise it came out nice. now im gonna cut and buff it, should i shoot 1 more coat after i do that? also what is color sanding?

i'll post pics when i get home.


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=210994


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 518 Swangin_@Aug 27 2007, 12:07 PM~8651403
> *alright so i was gonna get centari since chromapremier was more than i wanted to spend, but they didnt have it in a urethane. so i got the nason ss instead. we shot that after we adjusted the gun and the 1st 2 coats laid like glass, we shot 2 more and we had some orange peel. we also got a few small bugs in it, but otherwise it came out nice. now im gonna cut and buff it, should i shoot 1 more coat after i do that? also what is color sanding?
> 
> i'll post pics when i get home.
> *


color sanding is what some refer to as wetsanding, same thing, IMO color sanding is the wetsanding of ss paints. if you got 4 coats of nason ss on there just wetsand it down and buff it out, i would wait a week though, nason tends to take a while to cure up, and for some reason it doesn't cut and buff, i personally have never cut and buffed nason ss, but have with nason clear, and that shit needed over a week before it could be buffed back or it would just look like mad swirls/ scratches, so i would be cautious and to be on the safe side i would wetsand it all down, then let it sit a couple days (helps release solvents faster) after a few days i'm sure it wont be a problem, better safe than sorry though, especially with black.

ps, i hate to say this to you now, but centari (acrylic enamel) is actually better than the nason eurathane, and there is a higher grade eurathane hardner for the centari which gives it much better gloss, and way longer hold out, because it contains uv protection which the others like proform "wetlook" dont.

another option you have is to sand it down with some 6-800 wet, and shoot a couple coats of clear, the clear would lay down like glass over that, because it provides basically the perfectly flat substrate, but if your trying to save $$ just sand and buff what you got, it will look real nice, and after at least a month put a good coat of wax on there to protect it.


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

alright, i forgot bout this thread for a while here are some pics of how it turned out. the first 2 coats of s/s layed like glass, but the last 2 had a severe orange peel, we figured it to be not waiting enough time for it to flash. my bro a deer with it a few months back and now im back to working on the body. Were going to sand the whole car down to the primer to get the orange peel out and so we can shoot again, hopefully it will come out right this time. Im probally going to get a da, what grit would you recommend to bring it down, something like a 400 maybe?


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

YOU DONT HAVE TO GO DOWN TO THE PRIMER 
YOU CAN TRY WETSANDING THE ORANGE PEEL AWAY AND BUFF,
TRY A LITTLE SPOT AND SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE IF YOU HAVE TO MUCH RIPPLE (ORANGE PEEL) THEN 
YOU CAN WETSAND THE PAINT FLAT AND CLEAR OVER IT OR SHOOT ANOTHER COUPLE OF COATS OF S.S




LOOKING AT THE PICTURES 
YOU'DE BE BETTER OFF SANDING AND CLEARING OVER IT 
THEM CREASES ARE GOING TO GIVE YOU A PROBLEM WHEN BUFFING


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

if you really have 4 coats of SS on there, you got tons of material to cut it down flat, then either buff or clear.

for SS nason jobs, i usually just blast on 2, max 3 coats. thats what its designed for. i mean honestly a job like that, you just want a nice gun finish, done. like i just shot my girlfriends accord yesterday, its white, i just blasted 3 coats of RM uno SS on it, looks great, glossy ass fuck, hurts the eyes, and theres basically no orange peel, dont pussyfoot with SS lay the 1st coat medium, wait 5-10mins then hammer on 2 and 3 wet on wet no flash, just walk right around it, the coats melt together and flow out mint.


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

alright thanks for the info. i think im gonna shoot the whole car since theres scratches from hittin the deer and we gotta shoot the new hood,fender, bumper cover and drivers door anyway. but i'll see when i get the bodywork done. :thumbsup:


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

alright, we laid down some primer on the fenders, doors and front bumper cover. We used Evercoat durabuild and shot it through a 1.7 at 21psi. We use a hvlp setup not sure what kind of gun. The primer shot good at first, but we kept running into the paint drying very fast, it started to dry at the tip of the gun and cause problems, why could this be? it was also drying in the air and laying like dust on the other panels we had in the booth. Also in some spots the primer came out rough, not orange peel. Can i sand this before i shoot the centari black, or should i sand then shoot another coat?


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## blownsmokeallday (Jun 25, 2004)

> _Originally posted by 518 Swangin_@Jun 25 2008, 11:30 AM~10947897
> *alright, we laid down some primer on the fenders, doors and front bumper cover. We used Evercoat durabuild and shot it through a 1.7 at 21psi. We use a hvlp setup not sure what kind of gun. The primer shot good at first, but we kept running into the paint drying very fast, it started to dry at the tip of the gun and cause problems, why could this be? it was also drying in the air and laying like dust on the other panels we had in the booth. Also in some spots the primer came out rough, not orange peel. Can i sand this before i shoot the centari black, or should i sand then shoot another coat?
> *


add more reducer


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

alright i'll try that, i did it 1.25:1 like it said.


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## 95rangeron14z (Jun 15, 2005)

heres some pics of Dupont Nason Full-Thane single stage..
some cars i've shot with that....you can always put intergrated clear to help the paint lay real nice as good or better than bc/cc


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

nice work, i reduced it less and it seemed to spray better. Tomarrow im gonna pick up some centari at my local dupont shop and hopefully lay it down sunday or monday.


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

laid it down pretty nice, but we didnt have enough light in the booth and few spots came out real thin. :twak: one on the rocker, the other on the trunklid. im gonna respray the trunklid, and try to do something with the rocker, can i just scuff it with some 320 and shoot over it? its been probably 3 weeks or so since it was shot.


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## tRiCk oR tReAt 2 (Aug 7, 2003)

I'd just shoot BC/CC, with a tiny bit of black in the clear.....


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by 518 Swangin_@Jul 29 2008, 09:01 PM~11211708
> *laid it down pretty nice, but we didnt have enough light in the booth and few spots came out real thin. :twak:  one on the rocker, the other on the trunklid. im gonna respray the trunklid, and try to do something with the rocker, can i just scuff it with some 320 and shoot over it? its been probably 3 weeks or so since it was shot.
> *


be safe scuff with 400


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

base/clear wasn not cut and buffed yet


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

> _Originally posted by tRiCk oR tReAt 2_@Jul 30 2008, 11:06 AM~11214459
> *I'd just shoot BC/CC, with a tiny bit of black in the clear.....
> *



yeah next job im gonna shoot bc/cc, i did it for the first time on my friends van, doing some spot repair, and the bc laid very nice, the clear..well not so nice, but its easier to work with rather than s/s. 5 min after i shot the clear it ran off the car  i think i learned my lesson.


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## 518 Swangin (Jul 30, 2007)

> _Originally posted by SWITCHCRAFT_@Jul 30 2008, 02:36 PM~11216058
> *base/clear  wasn not cut and buffed yet
> 
> 
> ...


wow looks very nice :0


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## tRiCk oR tReAt 2 (Aug 7, 2003)

black bc/cc on top half of car.


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## BondoKing (Jul 10, 2007)

BC/CC is far easier to work with for the novice painter imo.. Cheap single stages, which is what he used, arent as user friendly as a cheap base and clear.. Plus most of the time, the cheapo ss are not buffer friendly either.. 

I agree black ss for something setting outside, or car shows outside looks the best, but still its not for everyone to shoot.. but I think just about anyone can do a bc/cc job and with a cut and buff make it look nice..
JMO


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by BondoKing_@Jul 30 2008, 05:51 PM~11219029
> *BC/CC is far easier to work with for the novice painter imo.. Cheap single stages, which is what he used, arent as user friendly as a cheap base and clear.. Plus most of the time, the cheapo ss are not buffer friendly either..
> 
> I agree black ss for something setting outside, or car shows outside looks the best, but still its not for everyone to shoot.. but I think just about anyone can do a bc/cc job and with a cut and buff make it look nice..
> ...


I would have to disagree i believe most SS would be way easier to spray than bc/cc for a beginner, as long as its a solid color


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