# Gbody T-top roof restoration, maintenance, and repair.



## littlerascle59

*T-Top Reassembly!*

What follow are the procedures I used to re-install my T-Top and the weather-stripping. *I'm not sure if this is "correct" but it: works, doesn't leak and looks normal. *No guarantees... but about 90% of these leaked from the factory anyway...!

TOOLS Needed:

_First, here is a list of what tools you will need to complete this:_

#2 Philips Screw Driver
Popsicle Sticks Lots (supply?)
Dull Flat Head Screw Driver
Weather Stripping Release (lacquer thinner)
Caulking Gun
Scotch Brite "Wheel"

SUPPLIES Needed:

Weather Stripping
Foam Strips
Butyl Caulk
Clean all of the parts.

1. Remove as much of the backing from the chrome bits that go across the top of the windshield and across the top of the roof. *You will find this weather-stripping is hard and thin. *I would bet the 90% of T-Top leak at these seams. *It's where mine leaked.

2. Do not remove the foam from the back of the channels that go down the "A" and "B" pillars. *They should be in good shape and can be re-use.

3. Use weather-stripping release or lacquer thinner to remove as much as the old weather stripping adhesive as possible.

4. Use a rotary Scotch Brite tool *to clean the Butyl goo off of the each end of the T-Top center section.








Get rid of all of this








And this

*Loosely Install the Back Chrome*

1. Run a good bead of Butyl Caulk and

2. Install the 7 screws that hold on this chrome bit, *Leave 6 of them loose

3. ONLY tighten the one in the middle it will be blocked by the center bit

4. You'll need them loose as the weather strip has a little "lip" that fits under this lip








Loosely Install the Two Front Chrome Bits

1. Run a good bead of Brutal Caulk, and

2. Install the 8 screws that hold on these chrome bits, *Leave all 8 of them loose.

3. You'll need them loose as the weather strip has a little "lip" that fits under this lip, just like in the back.

4. Of course the front bits overlap to give the appearance of one long piece. *Not sure why GM did this this way. *At least there is no middle screw to get blocked.








Install the chrome bits and caps that extend down the "A" and "B" pillars

1. At the top of the "B"'s shoot a big blob of caulk

2. Install the Chrome that goes down the "A" pillar, no caulk needed here

3. Install the channels on the "A" and "B" pillars








Partly install the center T shaped channel

1. Install foam sound control








2. Apply at least a table spoon sized blob of butyl goo at the windshield end

3. Repeat at the back.

4. Apply a very large bead/damn of goo from the front "screw" ridge to the front channel on each side

5. Repeat at the back

6. Install the Center Support with only 4 screws, 2 at the front 2 at the back

7. Make another damn of goo to bridge these gaps at the front
















8. Make them look like this:








9. Repeat at the back
















10.*Make them look like this:








Fill the "A" pillar "cups" with goo

1. At the top of the "A"'s shoot a big blob of caulk in here:








Install the weather-strip

1. Pre-fit the weather strip and attach the 4 "big" flat Philps screws. Two at the top of the "A" Pillar, two at the top of the "B"

2. On the bottom of the weather-strip there are two lips a "big" one that fits in the "J" channel and a "thin" on that fits under the chrome at the front and back of the t-top. *Fit the "big" one in the three "J" channels: front, middle, and back.

3. The hard and messy part, *Force the "thin" lip under the chrome bits. *A popsicle stick makes the best tool. *But a dull flat head can work too. * This is a long slow process. You can see the lip half in and half out in this picture.:








4. Tighten all of the small chrome screw that hold down the front and back chrome bits, pressing down as you go... If goo oozes out this is perfect!

5. Repeat on the other side.

Install Glass Panels

1. Install the panels and adjust the pressure and the seal (if needed) at the large chrome latches

2. Clean any excess goo



















Got these instructions from another website listed below. I thought it would help our fellow T-top owners/riders out.








http://members.shaw.ca/gregtsmith/T-Top%20Weather-Strip.htm


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## CoupeDTS

That's a lot of work but an option for some. 

Buddy of mine bought all new weatherstripping and we put it on and nothing leaks. No sealer and no special tools.


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## orientalmontecarlo

CoupeDTS said:


> That's a lot of work but an option for some.
> 
> Buddy of mine bought all new weatherstripping and we put it on and nothing leaks. No sealer and no special tools.


x305 only time they leak is when theres rust under and improper weatherstrip installation


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## littlerascle59

Well unless you're in the southwest where rust isn't a bigger problem as the cars in the north, mid-west, south and east, you'll more than likely have some rust issues already unless your T-top was garage kept most of it's life. I'd rather go thru the hassle of putting globs of butyl goo all over everything to ensure water is kept out than using hardly any. Let's be realistic some or probably alot of guys on this site may not have a garage or carport so rain, moisture will be an issue. And this is just my 'opinion' but I would have never put those T-top weatherstripping on without putting sealer under it. Their are some weatherstrip pieces that I wouldn't care if it had sealer or not but the T-top gotta have it.


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## littlerascle59

Also I forgot to add you'll have to thoroughly clean up everything to make sure you don't have rust issues anyway.


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## orientalmontecarlo

littlerascle59 said:


> Well unless you're in the southwest where rust isn't a bigger problem as the cars in the north, mid-west, south and east, you'll more than likely have some rust issues already unless your T-top was garage kept most of it's life. I'd rather go thru the hassle of putting globs of butyl goo all over everything to ensure water is kept out than using hardly any. Let's be realistic some or probably alot of guys on this site may not have a garage or carport so rain, moisture will be an issue. And this is just my 'opinion' but I would have never put those T-top weatherstripping on without putting sealer under it. Their are some weatherstrip pieces that I wouldn't care if it had sealer or not but the T-top gotta have it.


we have rust problems down here too....and i would know about not having a garage or carport since 87 my ls has slept outside all its life i do however cover it everyday and when the cover gets torn or used i buy another one asap same thing with the 71 vert except that one is indoors currently....most of the time the factory t tops leak because the factory seam sealer cracked or dried off aside from rust issues....i would also use sealer and butyl glue as well before new weatherstrip,plus new weatherstrip needs heat to catch its shape and settle on a t top cus we all know every car is different....


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## littlerascle59

orientalmontecarlo said:


> we have rust problems down here too....and i would know about not having a garage or carport since 87 my ls has slept outside all its life i do however cover it everyday and when the cover gets torn or used i buy another one asap same thing with the 71 vert except that one is indoors currently....most of the time the factory t tops leak because the factory seam sealer cracked or dried off aside from rust issues....i would also use sealer and butyl glue as well before new weatherstrip,plus new weatherstrip needs heat to catch its shape and settle on a t top cus we all know every car is different....


Yeah I know what you mean man. I get those cheap car covers from Wal Mart and the wind will rip them pretty easy even when it's not tornado season here in Mississippi. I also put a water proof tarp over the tops held down by bungee cords before I put the car cover on because water still penetrate those wal mart covers. I'm not sure as to what other sealer would be used but I do know that it's a must to use that butyl goo on a T-top frame especially if that's the first time you're replacing the weatherstripping. The previous owner of my car didn't do shit as far as preventive maintenance is concerned. I pulled up one of my L-plates and rust is eating away at my T-top frame. Usually in the deep south cars rust from the top down as opposed to bottom up like the northern cars. So it would be super wise to go ahead and get all the 25 year old or older sealer off and do it right the first time because I've been reading about guys payin almost $400 for T-top seal kits and not putting them on properly and having to snatch it back off within a year or so because it started leaking again.


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## orientalmontecarlo

littlerascle59 said:


> Yeah I know what you mean man. I get those cheap car covers from Wal Mart and the wind will rip them pretty easy even when it's not tornado season here in Mississippi. I also put a water proof tarp over the tops held down by bungee cords before I put the car cover on because water still penetrate those wal mart covers. I'm not sure as to what other sealer would be used but I do know that it's a must to use that butyl goo on a T-top frame especially if that's the first time you're replacing the weatherstripping. The previous owner of my car didn't do shit as far as preventive maintenance is concerned. I pulled up one of my L-plates and rust is eating away at my T-top frame. Usually in the deep south cars rust from the top down as opposed to bottom up like the northern cars. So it would be super wise to go ahead and get all the 25 year old or older sealer off and do it right the first time because I've been reading about guys payin almost $400 for T-top seal kits and not putting them on properly and having to snatch it back off within a year or so because it started leaking again.



thats the worst part if u ask me and ive also seen this happend which is a shame.....also por-15 or eastwood is a great idea to apply to avoid settling water causing rust.....what are the monte ss going for in miss. 87-88 ???


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## littlerascle59

Anywhere from $500-$3500 from I've seen.


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## orientalmontecarlo

sounds typical,theyre getting real hard to find down here...i laugh when someone on here talks shit about a g-body like if we were still in 99-00 when g-bodies were everywhere for 400 bucks and shit like that, cus them bitches aint cheap down here anymore at all let alone find a clean one....

you ever need used or nos parts check these people out family owned best prices on everything for monte carlo/el camino


http://www.mandmspeed.com/


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## littlerascle59

TTT


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## Lil Razo

On.my just.my retainer plates are rusted.underneath is barely surface.rust would i be ok replacing weather striping.and all retainer plates.or should i add the botyl


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## warning

damn red you got some albino hands


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## littlerascle59

Lil Razo said:


> On.my just.my retainer plates are rusted.underneath is barely surface.rust would i be ok replacing weather striping.and all retainer plates.or should i add the botyl


If your retaining strip is rusted, I'd go ahead and replace all of them. Gbodyparts makes'em in stainless steel now. Better go ahead and do it before the moisture sits under there too long.


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## MR.LAC

TTT


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## Lil Razo

Thanks lilrascal


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## littlerascle59

TTT


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## littlerascle59

*T-Top Reassembly!*

What follow are the procedures I used to re-install my T-Top and the weather-stripping. *I'm not sure if this is "correct" but it: works, doesn't leak and looks normal. *No guarantees... but about 90% of these leaked from the factory anyway...!

TOOLS Needed:

_First, here is a list of what tools you will need to complete this:_

#2 Philips Screw Driver
Popsicle Sticks Lots (supply?)
Dull Flat Head Screw Driver
Weather Stripping Release (lacquer thinner)
Caulking Gun
Scotch Brite "Wheel"

SUPPLIES Needed:

Weather Stripping
Foam Strips
Butyl Caulk
Clean all of the parts.

1. Remove as much of the backing from the chrome bits that go across the top of the windshield and across the top of the roof. *You will find this weather-stripping is hard and thin. *I would bet the 90% of T-Top leak at these seams. *It's where mine leaked.

2. Do not remove the foam from the back of the channels that go down the "A" and "B" pillars. *They should be in good shape and can be re-use.

3. Use weather-stripping release or lacquer thinner to remove as much as the old weather stripping adhesive as possible.

4. Use a rotary Scotch Brite tool *to clean the Butyl goo off of the each end of the T-Top center section.








Get rid of all of this








And this

*Loosely Install the Back Chrome*

1. Run a good bead of Butyl Caulk and

2. Install the 7 screws that hold on this chrome bit, *Leave 6 of them loose

3. ONLY tighten the one in the middle it will be blocked by the center bit

4. You'll need them loose as the weather strip has a little "lip" that fits under this lip








Loosely Install the Two Front Chrome Bits

1. Run a good bead of Brutal Caulk, and

2. Install the 8 screws that hold on these chrome bits, *Leave all 8 of them loose.

3. You'll need them loose as the weather strip has a little "lip" that fits under this lip, just like in the back.

4. Of course the front bits overlap to give the appearance of one long piece. *Not sure why GM did this this way. *At least there is no middle screw to get blocked.








Install the chrome bits and caps that extend down the "A" and "B" pillars

1. At the top of the "B"'s shoot a big blob of caulk

2. Install the Chrome that goes down the "A" pillar, no caulk needed here

3. Install the channels on the "A" and "B" pillars








Partly install the center T shaped channel

1. Install foam sound control








2. Apply at least a table spoon sized blob of butyl goo at the windshield end

3. Repeat at the back.

4. Apply a very large bead/damn of goo from the front "screw" ridge to the front channel on each side

5. Repeat at the back

6. Install the Center Support with only 4 screws, 2 at the front 2 at the back

7. Make another damn of goo to bridge these gaps at the front
















8. Make them look like this:








9. Repeat at the back
















10.*Make them look like this:








Fill the "A" pillar "cups" with goo

1. At the top of the "A"'s shoot a big blob of caulk in here:








Install the weather-strip

1. Pre-fit the weather strip and attach the 4 "big" flat Philps screws. Two at the top of the "A" Pillar, two at the top of the "B"

2. On the bottom of the weather-strip there are two lips a "big" one that fits in the "J" channel and a "thin" on that fits under the chrome at the front and back of the t-top. *Fit the "big" one in the three "J" channels: front, middle, and back.

3. The hard and messy part, *Force the "thin" lip under the chrome bits. *A popsicle stick makes the best tool. *But a dull flat head can work too. * This is a long slow process. You can see the lip half in and half out in this picture.:








4. Tighten all of the small chrome screw that hold down the front and back chrome bits, pressing down as you go... If goo oozes out this is perfect!

5. Repeat on the other side.

Install Glass Panels

1. Install the panels and adjust the pressure and the seal (if needed) at the large chrome latches

2. Clean any excess goo


















Got these instructions from another website listed below. I thought it would help our fellow T-top owners/riders out.








http://members.shaw.ca/gregtsmith/T-Top Weather-Strip.htm


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## littlerascle59

My photobucket was/is full so it messed up all of my previous posts with pics.


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## littlerascle59

C & C(Cars & Concepts) headliner repair...
The above posts is for the Fisher or factory installed T-tops.


The Problem
Driving the other day and the wind caught the back of the headliner, signalling the final hurrah of the 25 year old bit of fabric, foam and backing board. *taps plays in the background*

This photo series is kind of a how-to, and an intro to Cars & Concepts T-Tops for those who haven't seen them. They were a mfr. of aftermarket t-tops and sunroofs, which they supplied to dealers and custom shops. They're pretty few and far-between compared to the Fisher tops, which is what you'd call "factory."










Bubbles and The Real Problem
Just a picture showing two things: 1) The bubbling and separating is starting pretty much everwhere, and 2) The way these Cars and Concepts T-Tops are put together means I have to install a full headliner, and trim 'n' tuck to fit.









Bubble part 2
Just the front side of the roof... more bubbles and separation.









The Top of the Top
This is what the top of the C&C roof frame looks like. There's a rubber "cap" that goes around the edge, covering the "fold and tuck" of the headliner fabric around the cutouts...









Chunks of foam in the back seat
This crap was everywhere. Ick.









Capless
The black rubber cap removed from the rim.









Frame Exposed
Peeling back the old fabric from the frame, this is what you get. Yeah, its rotten.









Did I mention...
that it was rotten? This is what the back 1/2 looked like. And no these tops didn't leak. At all. Seriously.









Center Section
With all of the fabric peeled off the frame, the center section exposed.









Removed
The biggest piece of the removed headliner. You can see just how badly deteriorated this thing was. No amount of glue was going to solve that problem. I'm not sure if this was a GM-factory piece that C&C cut, or if it was something they did, as the backing was a foamcore material and not cardboard.









Roof
What the roof looks like, in case you were interested. And no I didn't find the build sheet  Dunno where that thing is.









Roof pt. 2
Ditto for the front. That wire hanging off the right corner goes to the lighted vanity mirror on the sunvisor. Be *careful* with this, as if you're not it would be very easy to pull or tear the wire or break the connector. The connector goes back up inside the body once the visor is back on.









New board in
The new headliner board in. The new boards are ABS plastic-backed, with a nylon foam inbetween a decently adhered fabric. Doesn't look as thick as the old one, but it looks sturdier.

I did it this way because I didn't want to try and cut the thing out of the car, get it in there and realize I'd screwed up.










Inside
Inside of the new headliner. The ABS plastic on this is about 1/8" thick, so unless you've got wrists of steel you're going to need a dremel or other detail-oriented cutting device. I used a cutting wheel instead of a router-style bit, as I didn't want to catch the fabric on it and wrap it up/tear on it.









Another
Another picture of the full headliner installed.









Cutout number one
I cut out the first section a good 1.5 to 2" away from the edge. This cut goes all the way through. Be careful not to trash the fabric underneath, as you'll need it in the next step.









Cutout number two
The second cutout is trickier, as you only want to cut through the plastic, and NOT the fabric or the foam. You'll want to make this cut as clean as possible, and go back around with a grinding or sanding bit to smooth out the edges and take all the burrs off.









Folded, Glued, and Capped
OK so I skipped a step in the photos!  Take and (carefully) spray some headliner headliner adhesive on the exposed fabric, wrap it up and tuck it behind the lip there. You'll want to re-attach the black cap at the same time to keep it there. Start at one corner: Fold it over, and pinch it off with the cap.









Done part 2.
When you get the cap on all the way around and the edge pulled an even distance, take a PLASTIC putty knife or other edge and push down some more all the way around to get it nice and tight. Then CAREFULLY use a utility knife or similar to cut off any excess. BE CAREFUL doing this or you'll cut and trash your seal. If you keep the blade pointed down instead of to the side you should be safe.

That's it!









Got this from another website that recieves less traffic than this one so I decided to post here because I know how rare the C & C, T-tops gbody cars are. I would've reused the original headliner board but that's just me tho. Reason I said that is because its next to impossible to find original C & C T-top parts(weatherstripping, trim, headliner board, etc).
Here's the original link.
http://gbodyforum.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=21&pos=0


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## littlerascle59

Took most of my weatherstripping off. My roof was rotted out bad. I ordered a replacement panel like the one pictured up above, it should be here by tomorrow afternoon.


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## littlerascle59

Got it earlier this morning..


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## littlerascle59

http://turbobuick.com/forums/thread...d-with-an-awesome-gbodypart-com-piece.388193/


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## littlerascle59

Finna tackle the job when I get my 110 volt mig welder


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## littlerascle59

By the way one of my T-Top weatherstripping had a separation(not a tear) at the seam, do y'all know what's a good and correct adhesive that'll reseal that section?


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