# 64 Impala SS new trim VS polish. Need opinions



## unvdistc (Mar 2, 2012)

So I recently pulled my trim off and started to polish it. Basically the process that I'm using is; 1. let is soak in Drano/lye for 10-15 in. 2. sand and polish for hours 3. sand and polish for hours. 4 sand and polish for hours.  After all that it still has imperfections so this is my question that I need opinions on.

If you buy new trim from someone (Impala bobs for example) is the new shiny like chrome or is it dull on the SS? I want it new but I want it to look good and shiny. After I polish it it looks like it is chromed. The problem is getting all the pieces looking the same. Here are some examples:

My best piece compared to the Old


This one is not as shiny 


Trying to get all the dullness out



Thoughts?


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## 64 For Life (Mar 19, 2013)

I ran into the same problem. I bought new. New trim is shiny and looks like chrome when you buy it new. I found the best place to get those and they look great is http://www.truckandcarshop.com/ Never had any problems with thier stuff.


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## unvdistc (Mar 2, 2012)

64 For Life said:


> I ran into the same problem. I bought new. New trim is shiny and looks like chrome when you buy it new. I found the best place to get those and they look great is http://www.truckandcarshop.com/ Never had any problems with thier stuff.


Thanks, Yeah they have good pricing too. I will probably get some new stuff especially if it looks great new.


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## 64 For Life (Mar 19, 2013)

unvdistc said:


> Thanks, Yeah they have good pricing too. I will probably get some new stuff especially if it looks great new.


Yeah you won't be sorry. Let me know what you think when you get it. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## MEANT TO BE 64 (Nov 10, 2010)

Id just get them chrome. Also id rather use as much og parts as possible rather than repop.


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## MEANT TO BE 64 (Nov 10, 2010)

Just take a look at how shinny the grill is and its chromed


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## unvdistc (Mar 2, 2012)

Who can I get to chrome the aluminum? The local places say they won't do it because it does not hold the chrome well. Is that right?


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## MEANT TO BE 64 (Nov 10, 2010)

Mr.impala here did mine and from what I seen people all over the u.s send stuff to him and I believe they dio them in copper so the chrome can stick to the aluminum.


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## 64 For Life (Mar 19, 2013)

MEANT TO BE 64 said:


> Mr.impala here did mine and from what I seen people all over the u.s send stuff to him and I believe they dio them in copper so the chrome can stick to the aluminum.


Eventually over time even though dipped in copper it will start to peel and flake, just takes one little area and the damage is done.

Aluminum = Polished
Aluminum = Chrome = redoing them again and spending even more money. :banghead:


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

64 For Life said:


> Eventually over time even though dipped in copper it will start to peel and flake, just takes one little area and the damage is done.
> 
> Aluminum = Polished
> Aluminum = Chrome = redoing them again and spending even more money. :banghead:


correct


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

unvdistc said:


> So I recently pulled my trim off and started to polish it. Basically the process that I'm using is; 1. let is soak in Drano/lye for 10-15 in. 2. sand and polish for hours 3. sand and polish for hours. 4 sand and polish for hours.  After all that it still has imperfections so this is my question that I need opinions on.
> 
> If you buy new trim from someone (Impala bobs for example) is the new shiny like chrome or is it dull on the SS? I want it new but I want it to look good and shiny. After I polish it it looks like it is chromed. The problem is getting all the pieces looking the same. Here are some examples:
> 
> ...


you have the general idea but there are products and tools out there to cut your time in half or better...first off. the drano thing works but it works very slow. i use a product called blue lightining. its sold by the gallon. its spray on and rinse off. the main ingredient is sodium hydroxide. that is what eats off the anodize coating. on most of the trim if there arent any dents you can go straight to the buffer. no sanding needed. you simply spray on and soak for 5 mins....rinse.....for oem parts....spray again....soak.....rinse....dry.....straight to the buffer with brown compound on a spiral wheel. ....clean....examine.....maybe buff again.....clean.....then move to a white or green compound on a loose buff wheel.....and you will see your results improve 100%. for trim like interior headliner. u dont need to sand anything.....infact sanding on soft aluminun sometimes works against you. the compound and buffing wheel will remove all light scratches. you can pm me for more details as i started out where you are and learned on my own, and by reading books.


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## Emailad4me773 (Feb 19, 2012)

lone star said:


> you have the general idea but there are products and tools out there to cut your time in half or better...first off. the drano thing works but it works very slow. i use a product called blue lightining. its sold by the gallon. its spray on and rinse off. the main ingredient is sodium hydroxide. that is what eats off the anodize coating. on most of the trim if there arent any dents you can go straight to the buffer. no sanding needed. you simply spray on and soak for 5 mins....rinse.....for oem parts....spray again....soak.....rinse....dry.....straight to the buffer with brown compound on a spiral wheel. ....clean....examine.....maybe buff again.....clean.....then move to a white or green compound on a loose buff wheel.....and you will see your results improve 100%. for trim like interior headliner. u dont need to sand anything.....infact sanding on soft aluminun sometimes works against you. the compound and buffing wheel will remove all light scratches. you can pm me for more details as i started out where you are and learned on my own, and by reading books.



Good shit Homie :thumbsup:


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## CadillacTom (Nov 19, 2010)

lone star said:


> you have the general idea but there are products and tools out there to cut your time in half or better...first off. the drano thing works but it works very slow. i use a product called blue lightining. its sold by the gallon. its spray on and rinse off. the main ingredient is sodium hydroxide. that is what eats off the anodize coating. on most of the trim if there arent any dents you can go straight to the buffer. no sanding needed. you simply spray on and soak for 5 mins....rinse.....for oem parts....spray again....soak.....rinse....dry.....straight to the buffer with brown compound on a spiral wheel. ....clean....examine.....maybe buff again.....clean.....then move to a white or green compound on a loose buff wheel.....and you will see your results improve 100%. for trim like interior headliner. u dont need to sand anything.....infact sanding on soft aluminun sometimes works against you. the compound and buffing wheel will remove all light scratches. you can pm me for more details as i started out where you are and learned on my own, and by reading books.


:thumbsup:


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## impala rider (Sep 26, 2009)

instead of spending the money to buy new ones spend it on a professional company to polish out your stuff. try to keep your original pieces they are always a better quality material.


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## streetsupraz (Apr 15, 2004)

lone star said:


> you have the general idea but there are products and tools out there to cut your time in half or better...first off. the drano thing works but it works very slow. i use a product called blue lightining. its sold by the gallon. its spray on and rinse off. the main ingredient is sodium hydroxide. that is what eats off the anodize coating. on most of the trim if there arent any dents you can go straight to the buffer. no sanding needed. you simply spray on and soak for 5 mins....rinse.....for oem parts....spray again....soak.....rinse....dry.....straight to the buffer with brown compound on a spiral wheel. ....clean....examine.....maybe buff again.....clean.....then move to a white or green compound on a loose buff wheel.....and you will see your results improve 100%. for trim like interior headliner. u dont need to sand anything.....infact sanding on soft aluminun sometimes works against you. the compound and buffing wheel will remove all light scratches. you can pm me for more details as i started out where you are and learned on my own, and by reading books.


From this place? http://www.blulightning.com/ Which product are you using?


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

yea thats the place. there are several different vendors. i use the anodize stripper sold by the gallon. its like 50 a gallon and shipping is like 30 dollars. (rip off on the shipping) i just ordered some last week.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

i would also vote on keeping original trim. the new shit is so thin and flimsy and the anodize coating is very thin. new trim anodize strips in about a min. vs. oem coating might take 2 or 3 times soaking it for 5 mins each time. for stainless i would polish or have that polished out. i dont understand by people chrome stainless trim. most times people dont even know what kind of metal the trim piece is. they refer to it as "chrome trim"....high grade stainless trim can be polished to a mirror finish fairly easy.


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## TONY MONTANA (May 14, 2006)

lone star said:


> i would also vote on keeping original trim. the new shit is so thin and flimsy and the anodize coating is very thin. new trim anodize strips in about a min. vs. oem coating might take 2 or 3 times soaking it for 5 mins each time. for stainless i would polish or have that polished out. i dont understand by people chrome stainless trim. most times people dont even know what kind of metal the trim piece is. they refer to it as "chrome trim"....high grade stainless trim can be polished to a mirror finish fairly easy.


INTERESTING YOU SAY THAT CUZ MY HOMIE JUST CHROMED ALL HIS MOLDINGS ON HIS 64SS BUT POLISHED THE TRIM AROUND THE WINDOWS AND TO BE HONEST I COULDNT TELL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE CHROMED OR POLISHED PARTS


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

Anodize is not a coating but rather a process done to aluminum to keep aluminum shiney longer. The surface is only hardened and not coated. U got it right on the removal of the anodizing but after that u should wetsand your trim with 1000-1500 grit sand paper. Then buy a sisal wheel. Use Emory with it. That should remove all sand scratches. Then clean the part really good. Then use a cotton buff with the white buffing compound. It should come out looking chromed.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

KAKALAK said:


> Anodize is not a coating but rather a process done to aluminum to keep aluminum shiney longer. The surface is only hardened and not coated. U got it right on the removal of the anodizing but after that u should wetsand your trim with 1000-1500 grit sand paper. Then buy a sisal wheel. Use Emory with it. That should remove all sand scratches. Then clean the part really good. Then use a cotton buff with the white buffing compound. It should come out looking chromed.


 anodize actually dulls the alumn a tini bit but does preserve it quite a while


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## unvdistc (Mar 2, 2012)

I bought new stuff. I'm keeping all the old and will eventually work on it. That will give me time to either chrome it or polish it out completely for the full restore. I love the way the new stuff looks because of the OG swirls. When polishing the old stuff it goes away. You were right though the new stuff is more flimsy. I had to be real careful installing it. 

I ordered all new emblems also. I have 3 pieces on backorder and 13 pieces still to install, but here are some pics.


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## lone star (May 22, 2003)

that ss insert can be purchased seperate, it comes on a roll.....


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

a real god wetsand and buff job will do wonders on that paintjob


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## unvdistc (Mar 2, 2012)

slo said:


> a real god wetsand and buff job will do wonders on that paintjob


Yeah we will probably do it this weekend. Just haven't got that far yet.


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## unvdistc (Mar 2, 2012)

Nice cruising weather yesterday....Not too hot, overcast and a nice breeze.


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## impala rider (Sep 26, 2009)

Car looks great but even in the pic the pieces look aftermarket. Work on your old pieces and replace them.


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