# Sticky  Kit Diagrams/Instructions



## 416impala

*Complete Plumbing Instructions*: http://www.coolcars.org/tech/air/

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3switch diagram, for a basic Front/Back Setup











10Switch Box Guide
Switch box diagram


Red – power wire 12v [make sure its fused with a 10amp fuse]
Black – driver front up
White= driver front down
Blue=- passenger front up
White/green=passenger front down
Yellow=driver rear up
Brown= driver rear down
Yellow/white= passenger rear up
Green= passenger rear down


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## 416impala

We will get this made a sticky. Allot of people asking me for basic diagrams, if anybody has requests let me know we can add them to this 1 thread.

OOPS MODERATORS move this to AIR RIDE FORUM

THANKS


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## Lo_N_Lavish

this is great for people like me


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## 416impala

Offset cups. How should they sit in a control arm setup?


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## SixFo Galaxie

Awesome! =)


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## foey

WOOO HOOO finally a diagram topic and PINNED!!! Will be putting in some of my own soon


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## elitdogg

may sound lame but to us noobs to this it will help. how far do you tighten the valves and fittings?? hand tight and quarter turn or what?


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## PeX$i

i wanna bag the front suspension of my lowrider trike...how do i go about gettingthe parts i need?


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## 416impala

Crank the fittings untill they are really tight, hard to explain the exact amount of pressure needed, different size fittings need different amount of torque.

a 1/8" fitting wont be as tight as a 3/4" fitting.


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## foey

> _Originally posted by PeX$i_@May 7 2008, 01:27 AM~10596525
> *i wanna bag the front suspension of my lowrider trike...how do i go about gettingthe parts i need?
> *


What u want to do is to get 1 Bimba 2/3 inch stroke mini cylinders. Hit up Ebay for one, search for Bimba air cylinders.
That cyllinder goes in place of the spring up front.

The set will only a paddle switch, the bike is light so a good 60/80 psi may even hop. Tank, I like the compact CO2 bottles for paint guns. The tricky part would be the tank adapter will have a diagram for u 2morrow. 

Too much 2 rite on a blackberry


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## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@May 6 2008, 06:16 PM~10592514
> *may sound lame but to us noobs to this it will help. how far do you tighten the valves and fittings?? hand tight and quarter turn or what?
> *


What I do is hand tighten the fitting as tight as I can, then tighten w/the wrench 2/3 more turns.

When you start hearing a noisy squeak you may be over doing it.


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## PeX$i

everyone has air cylinders...i dont like how they look ..."its not my cup of tea"....i wanna get an air bag small enough to replace the spring....the length of the bag doesnt matter its just the dia. of the bag...if all fails ill fabricate a bag out off r/c tires....its just have to hope the 100-200 psi wont pop it...i have a small 9oz co2 tank but imma use 3500/68 compress air aluminun tank...im down to go with the solenoid valves...


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## foey

> _Originally posted by PeX$i_@May 8 2008, 12:57 AM~10605716
> *everyone has air cylinders...i dont like how they look ..."its not my cup of tea"....i wanna  get an air bag small enough to replace the spring....the length of the bag doesnt matter its just the dia. of the bag...if all fails ill fabricate a bag out off r/c tires....its just have to hope the 100-200 psi wont pop it...i have a small 9oz co2 tank but imma use 3500/68 compress air aluminun tank...im down to go with the solenoid valves...
> *


True, but there isn't a small enough bag for the front, if u can fab a bag damn that be tight as hell. 200 psi is too much. Keep in mind u don't have an engine in that. There's 1/8" valves but don't go past 1/4" valves. Going higher on cetain parts would be unessessary. 
U are also going to need a batt for noid valves. I've always been curious about those power wheel batts. It says 12v on it worth a try if u get ur hands on one.


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## PeX$i

then i guess keeping it under 100 psi would be best...battery isnt a problem cuz of the sound system...ill make the sleeve(air bag) fit betwwen the forks...im getting custom forks from wicked....thanxs for your help....you,re life saver...but i have a feeling that my bike isnt gonna be ready for the good times highland park show in june....again thanx


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## foey

> _Originally posted by PeX$i_@May 8 2008, 10:07 PM~10612760
> *then i guess keeping it under 100 psi would be best...battery isnt a problem cuz of the sound system...ill make the sleeve(air bag) fit betwwen the forks...im getting custom forks from wicked....thanxs for your help....you,re life saver...but i  have a feeling that my bike isnt gonna be ready for the good times highland park show in june....again thanx
> *


If ur getting the prohopper ones ur on the rite track. Post up when start I'd like to see what u come up with.
HP show can wait. Take ur time an get it done right.


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## PeX$i

i have some pix of what i have done so far on my myspace if you wanna check it out.....im learning as i go...www.myspace.com/pepe_el_toro


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## foey

> _Originally posted by PeX$i_@May 9 2008, 08:43 PM~10620065
> *i have some pix of what i have done so far on my myspace if you wanna check it out.....im learning as i go...www.myspace.com/pepe_el_toro
> *


set it to public.


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## PeX$i

here is a preview of my project...i call it "WTF!"


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## PeX$i

its public


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## hearse

*



Originally posted by PeX$i@May 10 2008, 10:05 PM~10625397
here is a preview of my project...i call it "WTF!"











Click to expand...

*i call it *FAILED*


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## elitdogg

ok another newbie question. front bags on a g-body do you just pull the shocks cause they run thru the springs and the purch. so ok easy as i can ask do you relocate the strut or pull it and keep it out. and as for the rear how do you mount the lower brackets?

pics would help lol sorry i started my install and dead stop cause i didnt wanna fuck anything up. 



ps expect another order i wanna bag my 96 probe also


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## 58 Del-pala

uncool dude to post some shit like that in the forum sponsers stuff!!!


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## 416impala

We pay to sponsor this forum and have been here for years. You are posting in our own pinned topics.


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## elitdogg

yeah it is kinda rude..and it throws off the questions asked also nudge nudge lol


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## 416impala

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@May 13 2008, 05:15 PM~10647551
> *ok another newbie question. front bags on a g-body do you just pull the shocks cause they run thru the springs and the purch. so ok easy as i can ask do you relocate the strut or pull it and keep it out. and as for the rear how do you mount the lower brackets?
> 
> pics would help lol sorry i started my install and dead stop cause i didnt wanna fuck anything  up.
> ps expect another order i wanna bag my 96 probe also
> *


Take the strut right out, after you can get a relocation kit for the front shocks.

The rear has a weld on over axle bracket, the upper you have to cut the cup down. Call me up at the shop I can walk you thru it.


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## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@May 13 2008, 06:15 PM~10647551
> *ok another newbie question. front bags on a g-body do you just pull the shocks cause they run thru the springs and the purch. so ok easy as i can ask do you relocate the strut or pull it and keep it out. and as for the rear how do you mount the lower brackets?
> 
> pics would help lol sorry i started my install and dead stop cause i didnt wanna fuck anything  up.
> ps expect another order i wanna bag my 96 probe also
> *



for the front; 
You will be removing BOTH the spring and shock, you should have the cup sets, pair of upper and lower cups that bolt to the air bag. They fit (if made for your vehicle) perfectly inside the spring pocket and onto the lower a-arm. You may need to cut/trim the spring pocket to obtain air bag clearance so that it does not pop. 

NOTE: if you are using a 2600 type bag, you will need to cut the spring pocket some to get the clearance you need for the air bag. OFFSETTING the air bag would be wise due to the angle it receives when upper cups are not offset. Air bags work more effectively in a linear motion instead of an angled one. Also the angle will create a deformation in the bag overtime. 

Relocating the front shock isn't hard. There are relocating kits in which you have the ability to place the stock shock or new shock on the side of the frame closest to the a-arm area. 

for the rear;
you will take out the spring ONLY. you should have 2 pairs of axle bag mounts and 2 pairs of upper bag cups. Take out the spring and replace it with the upper bag cup bolted to the air bag. The axle mount you are going to have to weld that on. I have seen some people with bolt-on types, and it will wear over time causing it to rotate on the axle WHICH IS VERY BAD. 

Hope this helps. I will get to work on diagrams of how it should look.


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## elitdogg

so you need the front shocks then? or can you leave em off i know it would ride like shit inless its locked. and i have the RE6's up front and RE7's in the rear its the gbody kit you sell. I also heard there are different ways to mount the rear axle mounts?? you weld the arch to the axle or you can weld it to the sides of the axle so the mount sits on the axle. been doing some reading and figured to go to the source first

thanks alot and im really sorry for the newbie questions. 

you guys are the shit thanks alot


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## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@May 14 2008, 03:43 PM~10655300
> *so you need the front shocks then? or can you leave em off i know it would ride like shit inless its locked. and i have the RE6's up front and RE7's in the rear its the gbody kit you sell. I also heard there are different ways to mount the rear axle mounts?? you weld the arch to the axle or you can weld it to the sides of the axle so the mount sits on the axle. been doing some reading and figured to go to the source first
> 
> thanks alot and im really sorry for the newbie questions.
> 
> you guys are the shit thanks alot
> *


*Don't EVER apologize for asking. I don't mind answering question, I started off asking a ton.*

You can leave them off or put them on. It's preference really, it will ride shitty both locked and dropped. With the RE6's, just trim. RULE OF THUMB, if you can run your finger around the bag WITHOUT touching metal your good to go, if not, keep at it till you can. 

Yes, but it depends on the brackets you have. If you have the brackets that fit the bag atop of it, you weld it to the axle. I don't think you have room to mount brackets on the side of the axle without having the bag deform or work awkwardly.


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## elitdogg

i will post pics of what i mean on the axle and thanks alot for all the help

now do you sell the relocate kits?


and hope this helps others too lol


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## 416impala

For the rear its a universal kit.

Put the car on jackstands, remove the rear coils/shocks/bumpstops.

Bolt the wheels on,
jack up the rear end untill its fully laid out, 
place the over axle bracket you have ontop of the axle where the OG spring used to sit.
Now take a tape measure and measure from the UPPER Spring pocket down to the TOP of the over axle bracket.

Take that measurement and minus 3 inchs [this is the 3" that will be the airbag fully collapsed]

So lets say you measure 6", that means your upper cup will measure 3" in total. Take the pipe we gave you, cut it down to 3" tall and weld on the circle plate with a couple 1" stich welds. Then take the threaded rod and weld it to the plate so you can bolt in the cup from the upper spring perch.


The rear G-body cups are off-setted this is to keep the bag away from the frame. . this is how they should look when you are done.
It should look like this
http://www.ridetech.com/images/products/arr21100.jpg


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## elitdogg

now best way to remove the spring without killing myself or my girlfriend?


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## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@May 15 2008, 11:20 AM~10661643
> *now best way to remove the spring without killing myself or my girlfriend?
> *


What I do is remove the shock after I taken off the wheel. Prop vehicle on stands a high as you can. Next put a jack under the lower a arm, jack it up enough to were there spring has tension. 
Start unbolting the balljoints, u may need to knock the ball joint bolt out of the spindle, use a hammer.
When u finished unbolting the balljoints, sway bar, lower the jack slowly till the spring is loose. 

Hope this helps.


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## 58 Del-pala

One other way to remove front springs is the way I do it. Cheap and easy and safe.

1) get yourself some 4 foot long threaded rods and some good nuts and washers. I used 1/2 or 3/8 inch rod depending on the bolts holding on your lower A-arm.

2) Remove 1 bolt from each end of the A-Arm unles there is only 1 bolt on one end then do that one first. Now insert the threaded rod inplace of the bolt. Once you have all the bolts replaced with threaded rod all you have to do is slowly loosen the nuts on the rod untill the sprin is loose. It is key here to leave the spindle connected till the spring is loose.

3) Remove the spindle and the A-Arm and the spring is laying at your feet now.

Another way is to replace the shock with a 5 foot long threaded rod. Remove the spindle and then loosen the nuts on the threaded rod till the spring is loose. Most times the spring will still be in kinda tight and may need to be pryed out.


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## foey

Another way is to hit up auto zone and ask for an rwd spring compressor kit, not import. U can rent them out for about 3 days and when you bring it back u get ur money back.


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## PeX$i

im back...so where can a get two noid valve for cheat cuz the gas prizes aint making easier for to finish my trike....would you recomend the pomona swap meet?


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## Dr. Doom

i just got my order from Air assisted :biggrin: Better service than ANY online company i have used yet.(suicide who?)
Thanks Kevin!

Two quick questions. 
1: can you post an Asco valve wiring diagram please?
2: The large solenoid you picture in your second diagram, is that just a ford style starter solenoid or something else.

Thanks

PS. pics of my 62 galaxie will be posted soon


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## foey

> _Originally posted by PeX$i_@May 22 2008, 10:42 PM~10717473
> *im back...so where can a get two noid valve for cheat cuz the gas prizes aint making easier for to finish my trike....would you recomend the pomona swap meet?
> *



lol, nope. You can get Asco 1/4" ones from AAC. 

http://www.airassisted.com/index.php?cPath=2_58_60_61


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## foey

> _Originally posted by Dr. Doom_@May 23 2008, 02:54 PM~10721723
> *i just got my order from Air assisted :biggrin:  Better service than ANY online company i have used yet.(suicide who?)
> Thanks Kevin!
> 
> Two quick questions.
> 1: can you post an Asco valve wiring diagram please?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> PS.  pics of my 62 galaxie will be posted soon
> *












Basic is the to poles a jason to each other like in the picture. Another is using the tank as a ground. 
I made up a little diagram real quick, make sure when you are grounding the tank, the connections are metal to metal.


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## Dr. Doom

so the third connector is not used? just the one + and one -
That is what is throwing me off i guess


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## foey

> _Originally posted by Dr. Doom_@May 23 2008, 03:36 PM~10721953
> *so the third connector is not used?  just the one + and one -
> That is what is throwing me off i guess
> *


you got it. lol happens.


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## elitdogg

really fast im a bit confused about the wire diagrams on page 1 they show different stuff which one should i follow. im not sure if it matters which one but just like i said i dont wanna fuck anything up.


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## foey

Which diagrams in particular?
I apologize, I forget what your installing.


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## elitdogg

i have got your g body kit its goin into a 87 cutlass the wire diagrams for the relay there are 2 on the front page just wondering which i should follow


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## 58 Del-pala

Here is the Diagram I use for all the installs I have done. Works for each compressor.


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## elitdogg

so where do i inline the switch? between the batt right?


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## foey

between the battery wire to the on of the pressure switch. That way you are able to control when the system initially turns on or not.


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## elitdogg

i thank you guys so much this is really helpful and i hope this is helping other newbies too


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## 416impala

Holla at me at the shop. I am here this week.


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## 8FLEET9

any actual pictures of how much of the front spring pocket gets removed when bagging a 80-92 caddy? the diagrams with the kit are fairly cheezy. thanks.


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## foey

I'll see if I can find some pictures, it's not of a caddy but it's the same principle of what you need to do. 

Keep in mind that some people say "CUT" when all your really doing is making clearance for the bag so that it won't blow up/get damaged. 

What are you running up front? If it's 2600 bags, your going to have to cut some of the pocket, if it's a 2500 bag you will need to trim. Either processes will need you to run your finger 360 degrees around the bag with your finger, preferably your index. If your finger touches metal, keep at it till you don't feel anything. 

Best thing to do if it's your first time, TAKE YOUR TIME on it. Start off little then grind. NOTE
You can take off A LOT, but it's hard to put it back if you have taken off too much.


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## elitdogg

sounds lame but what im doing is getting a rubberizer like spray rubber and after its grinded down just shooting a clear rubber coat around the edges just incase any lil shards or anything its anal i know but hmm why not lol


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## foey

> _Originally posted by 8FLEET9_@May 27 2008, 09:21 PM~10749942
> *any actual pictures of how much of the front spring pocket gets removed when bagging a 80-92 caddy? the diagrams with the kit are fairly cheezy. thanks.
> *


Here's a couple pictures of spring pockets. Notice that for the 2600, you will need to cut off a fair amount of the pocket in order for it to clear when deflated so as it is not to rub on anything metal.
For the 2500, you will see that the pocket is just trimmed from the bottom and maybe a little on the sides, but not as much. 

2600

























































2500


















Clearance when deflated

















hope this helps.


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## 8FLEET9

thank you. those are much better than line drawings.


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## foey

> _Originally posted by 8FLEET9_@May 30 2008, 06:52 AM~10769280
> *thank you. those are much better than line drawings.
> *



my bad the last picture on the 2600 section is of an RE8.


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## elitdogg

really fast do you got any pics on what to remove in the front suspension of a gbody bitch of a time cause im hearing you need sways gone for side to side? and i cant really see the pic on how offset the rear cups are thanks again guys your like i said nothing but good guys


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## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Jun 5 2008, 11:08 AM~10804774
> *really fast do you got any pics on what to remove in the front suspension of a gbody bitch of a time cause im hearing you need sways gone for side to side? and i cant really see the pic on how offset the rear cups are thanks again guys your like i said nothing but good guys
> *


You take out the shocks and spings. The sway has 4 connections, 2 on the frame and 1 on each lower control arm.
Sorry no pictures at the moment. Yes sir, you will need to. Offsetting is basically making your brackets work with your bag to give the bag a more linear motion between the two fixed points.


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## elitdogg

last but not least what kind of welds should be used? i got a welder all set up and he is asking me what kinda welds. sorry like i said im really new to this


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## chevyboyitaly




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## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Jun 5 2008, 05:19 PM~10807569
> *last but not least what kind of welds should be used? i got a welder all set up and he is asking me what kinda welds. sorry like i said im really new to this
> *


Solid welds that won't break. Make sure the weld areas look like a roll of coins pushed over.


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## chevyboyitaly

Foey my work is correct?


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## foey

Looks good. :thumbsup:

did a little reading about the Air Amplifier. Thought people could use this info if they come across one some day. 

Air amplifier is easy to mount and maintain reducing both compressed air consumption and noise levels. It takes energy from a small volume of compressed air to produce a high velocity, high volume, low pressure output air flow.

Air amplifier is quiet, efficient, can amplify flows up to 20 times their input air consumption rate.

Air Amplifier Features:
No moving parts
More compact, simple, lightweight and portable
Driven by air, not electricity
Air Amplifier - How It Works


Compressed air flows from the supply inlet (1) into an annular chamber (2) and then throttled by an annular gap (3) resulting in high velocity air which adheres to the Coanda profile (4) which directs the flow outward. The low pressure area at (5) draws in a high volume of surrounding air (6) producing high volume, high velocity output flow.










I'm thinking about getting one so I don't have to get a EDC. It's a cheap substitute, and by far close to the real thing, but seems cool. Don't really care about fill time right now.


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## ridin slab

ANyone happen to have a pic diagram for 2 comps w/ 2 5 gal 9 port tanks? Running a solenoid also.


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## foey

> _Originally posted by ridin slab_@Jun 22 2008, 02:03 PM~10925764
> *ANyone happen to have a pic diagram for 2 comps w/ 2 5 gal 9 port tanks? Running a solenoid also.
> *


Use the Air Zenith diagram, I think its on here. Do it that way, connect both comps to the noid, using no less than 4 gauge wiring from the batt and for the grnd. If you can't find it in this thread look for one that says Pressure Switch. 

IMPORTANT!!!
Your noid MUST be a 80 amp noid to do this. Other wise you need to go with the relays.


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## ridin slab

Well I have a 80 amp noid so I won't need to use any relays right?


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## foey

> _Originally posted by ridin slab_@Jun 23 2008, 03:45 PM~10933843
> *Well I have a 80 amp noid so I won't need to use any relays right?
> *


Nope


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## Dr. Doom

I wired a auto pilot digital controller (that came from AAC, best online store!!)to a 80 amp noid and it does not work. Do you know if the auto pilot can do this or do i HAVE to run 2 separate relays? I hate the way relays look.


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## GROUPE ELA

> _Originally posted by phatz_@Apr 28 2008, 10:22 AM~10521136
> *We will get this made a sticky. Allot of people asking me for basic diagrams, if anybody has requests let me know we can add them to this 1 thread.
> 
> OOPS MODERATORS move this to AIR RIDE FORUM
> 
> THANKS
> *


WAZ UP HOMIE ! IM DOING MY 48 COUPE ALREADY DID THE FOUR LINK IN THE BACK BUT HAVING ISSUES WHERE THE REAR AIR BAGS MOUNT DO I HAVE TO BRIGE THE BACK LIKE HYDROLICS OR IS THERE AN EASIER WAY THANKS !! RJ


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## elitdogg

hey one last question when i relocate the struts in my cutlass (87) what ones do i use up front and just replacing the rears are they stock or do i need different size ones?


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## elitdogg

someone has to know?


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## Simplicity

> _Originally posted by Dr. Doom_@Jun 25 2008, 03:40 PM~10949089
> *I wired a auto pilot digital controller (that came from AAC, best online store!!)to a 80 amp noid and it does not work.  Do you know if the auto pilot can do this or do i HAVE to run 2 separate relays?  I hate the way relays look.
> *


I use the relay on the auto pilot to turn on a solenoid. That powers 2 Viair Compressors.
The yellow wire (to the compressor) from the auto pilot. I use to trigger my ignition input on solenoid.
Call me tommorow if that dosnt make sence.


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## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Jun 29 2008, 06:44 AM~10973436
> *hey one last question when i relocate the struts in my cutlass (87) what ones do i use up front and just replacing the rears are they stock or do i need different size ones?
> *


I think you can get some Nissan shocks, the ones they use on the hardbody mini's.


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## HectorDaCockyPenis

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Jun 29 2008, 05:44 AM~10973436
> *hey one last question when i relocate the struts in my cutlass (87) what ones do i use up front and just replacing the rears are they stock or do i need different size ones?
> *


not sure if this applies to you, but on my truck I put in d21 hardbody shocks (they're off a 80's nissan hardbody truck). I'm rollin a 01 dime.


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## bulletproofdesigns

> _Originally posted by foey_@Aug 9 2008, 10:04 AM~11300591
> *I think you can get some Nissan shocks, the ones they use on the hardbody mini's.
> *



damn dude love your avatar


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## elitdogg

now what is the real switch layout on the boxes. the ones that im using doesnt seem to be the right on( layout of the switches) like top left is seesaw top right is all up?? if you got a diagram or something that would be money homie


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## Simplicity




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## Simplicity

Switch box diagram


Red – power wire 12v [make sure its fused with a 10amp fuse]
Black – driver front up
White= driver front down
Blue=- passenger front up
White/green=passenger front down
Yellow=driver rear up
Brown= driver rear down
Yellow/white= passenger rear up
Green= passenger rear down


Not all box's Iv ever seen are exactly the same.


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## elitdogg

yea i got the box from you guys and looked at airtalk for the diagram and it was way off thanks though homie saves me alot of time and air


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## 72Pimpala

Can someone please help me with my airbagsetup?? The problem I am having is that when i turn my wheel the caliper hits the bag. It turns but not very much. The car sits perfectly but the caliper will not clear the bag. I was trying to not cut the frame. I was told by some people that I had to cut the frame and others have said i did not. I attached some pictures of how it looks. Let me know what you think and how the setup is so far. Please give online help and even if you are in Phoenix AZ i woud definitely appreciate local help.

Thanks


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## Simplicity

Is the suspension hanging right now, or is it on the floor?
how much room before the spindle hits the lower control arm.
Why diid you buy brackets from chassistech?
You can probably push the bag back in the pocket a bit. oval out the holes.


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## Lo_N_Lavish

im not understanding how the cups work, how they sit in the car and on the bag; 
are the cups welded to the car and then the bag just sits in it? or is the bag some how attatched to the cup? 
can somebody clarify it for me ?


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## HectorDaCockyPenis

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Sep 18 2008, 10:12 AM~11634861
> *im not understanding how the cups work, how they sit in the car and on the bag;
> are the cups welded to the car and then the bag just sits in it? or is the bag some how attatched to the cup?
> can somebody clarify it for me ?
> *


there's a couple ways to put cups on. Free Float them (if it's in a place where it looks like it will pop out DON'T FREE FLOAT THEM), weld them on, or bolt them on. Either ways are fine. The bag is bolter to the cups via 3/8" grade 8 bolts (you can get those at the local hardware stores), and/or 3/8" nuts and lock washers up top (not all bags have studs on top, Firestones and the new Air Lift Dominator bags have them).


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## Lo_N_Lavish

could i drill a hole through the cup and throw the control arm to secure it with a washer and a strong bolt ?


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## HectorDaCockyPenis

yes, the Suicide Doors bolt on cups do that. They have studs on the bottom of the lower cup that fits perfectly to the stock shock mount location keeping the lower cup in place.


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## Fine59Bel

Does anyone have a pic of how the bracket for the lower control arms on a '58-'64 impala attaches?? I just got my kit in... im a first timer. also, does only the rear lower brackets need to be welded in? this is on a '59 bel air. thanks guys


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## foey

Yes the rear has to be welded in. the front is optional. Can you describe the bracket.


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## Fine59Bel

I figured out the front bracket, but as i look around it seems like the rears dont have to be welded in, they can be bolted in. the brackets are from CCE


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## foey

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Oct 7 2008, 01:29 PM~11802780
> *I figured out the front bracket, but as i look around it seems like the rears dont have to be welded in, they can be bolted in. the brackets are from CCE
> *


you will have to weld those in. The upper brackets will bolt in like the front ones did. The lower brackets you will definitely need to weld those to the axle. ANY kind of lower that bolts to the axle is going to fail on you in the long run. Air Ride tech had a 100% bolt on 4 link kit in which 2 of the cross link bar brackets would bolt to the axle, thus was proven that they failed. Although the brackets were tightly secure on the axle, in time they started to loose their grip, then they started to twist and the pinion started to go. 
So if you have some kind of bolt on axle piece give it back and get some that you CAN weld on the axle.


----------



## Fine59Bel

> _Originally posted by foey_@Oct 7 2008, 09:09 PM~11805776
> *you will have to weld those in. The upper brackets will bolt in like the front ones did. The lower brackets you will definitely need to weld those to the axle. ANY kind of lower that bolts to the axle is going to fail on you in the long run. Air Ride tech had a 100% bolt on 4 link kit in which 2 of the cross link bar brackets would bolt to the axle, thus was proven that they failed. Although the brackets were tightly secure on the axle, in time they started to loose their grip, then they started to twist and the pinion started to go.
> So if you have some kind of bolt on axle piece give it back and get some that you CAN weld on the axle.
> *


alrite, i got what your sayin. So heres my problem, I dnt have a welder and I dnt wana get the car towed to a shop. so _could_ i bolt the rear bottoms in, then drive somewhere and have it welded??


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Oct 8 2008, 10:12 AM~11811189
> *alrite, i got what your sayin. So heres my problem, I dnt have a welder and I dnt wana get the car towed to a shop. so could i bolt the rear bottoms in, then drive somewhere and have it welded??
> *


I guess you can, MAKE sure you tighten the bracket enough so that it won't twist on the axle. That's the main point. You can then drive it somewhere to get a set that welds on or what not.


----------



## Fine59Bel

> _Originally posted by foey_@Oct 8 2008, 07:03 PM~11815123
> *I guess you can, MAKE sure you tighten the bracket enough so that it won't twist on the axle. That's the main point. You can then drive it somewhere to get a set that welds on or what not.
> *


alrite thanks. the brackets i have can be welded in, ill just have to get it done.


----------



## DUVAL

:cheesy:


----------



## foey

so most of the plans for my shit failed... funds. So I went out and got the air amplifier... lets see how this bitch handles, hopefully I will remember to do a little rite up in here.


----------



## Simplicity

> _Originally posted by foey_@Oct 17 2008, 07:53 PM~11897056
> *so most of the plans for my shit failed... funds. So I went out and got the air amplifier... lets see how this bitch handles, hopefully I will remember to do a little rite up in here.
> *


Get busy on that OK :biggrin:


----------



## foey

lol, will do Kevin. Haven't had time to play with it as much. As of now though I have only been to around 60 to maybe 80 psi and it's pretty cool. Lifts the front up some so that I can move something under the front. But other than that I have to wait till I get some time off from work to play. :biggrin:


----------



## foey

Well had some insight from Lance at ViAir Corp. Here's a tid bit that you may not know about mounting compressors... well the ViAir comps for that matter. 

What I gathered was that IF you mount one of their comps upside down, you will risk getting problems with your compressor. Why? Well the heat generated from the piston pumping all that air causes heat. Next time you refill, touch the top portion of the comp. It's hot enough to imprint the ridges on you (running from 0-145 and so on). 

Quote Lance:

"Question: Where does heat travel? 

Answer: Upwards, which is why the head of the compressor has heat sink fins. When mounted upside down, heat remains in the motor and does not effectively dissipate through the head of the compressor as intended.

Also - make sure you use nylock fasteners on the bolts securing your compressor(s). Dragging a pump is definitely not covered under ANY warranty, ever. 

You may also want to remote mount that air filter - its going to be subjected to everything that passes beneath your truck. Rocks, debris, water, sludge... the inside of that pump is not going to be clean for long, which will wear it out internally."

So if you are going to mount a comp on the side of the frame rail or whatnot, use a pre-made bracket or in general MAKE SURE YOU DON'T MOUNT IT UPSIDE DOWN. Also he said to use those vibration rubbers, or just get some that work (skateboard truck bushings:
the thing in the middle with the bolt through it:









If your comp stops running even when you put straight batt power to it, it could be your carbon bruash assembly: 
ViAir sells this... @ "A new carbon brush kit / rear cover assembly will run you $54.50 plus shipping."

Not pumping fast like it used to?
Check the following
- cylinder wall
- piston seal
you may need to replace one/any of those. ViAir also sells those parts, I forget how much but it's plus shipping. 


Another thing, don't go taking out the bolts or messing with the comp AT ALL, basically like you should already know any temperament of the product WILL RESULT IN A VOID OF WARRANTY. So don't think you can swap the position of the mounting brackets. I asked about that. He said it's a NO NO in definitely. 

Some jackass did this to his comp trying to swap out the brackets. 


























hope this helps.


----------



## foey

Well I tried out the air amplifier... it's only good for short bursts. Very effective when your short on air and need to lift to get home or a spot to work on it. But for everyday use I wouldn't. 

You would need to wait till it hits full/max pressure on your pswitch and then you are able to get the amplified amount, in my case it's around 290 (I'm using an old 145 switch I had left over). If you try to hit the switch, it won't do much. Just for kicks I even kept the valves open and watched it lift. SLOW. I'm not really happy with the results but eh. 

I GOT ME A... I think it's 210, could be a 209 but at least it will work and full fill my switch addiction.


----------



## EsePatJ

HEy homies.... I just start gettin my fittings together... end everybody says "dont use teflon tape"... but in the pic on the 1st page it looks like everything its sealed with teflon...
what kind of sealant can I use??


----------



## Fine59Bel

> _Originally posted by EsePatJ_@Nov 12 2008, 08:12 PM~12138904
> *HEy homies.... I just start gettin my fittings together... end everybody says "dont use teflon tape"... but in the pic on the 1st page it looks like everything its sealed with teflon...
> what kind of sealant can I use??
> *


I never heard not to use teflon tape. the only time u shouldnt use it, is putting a fitting into ur bag itslef (use loctite) and on swivel fittings on the end that spins freely. if im wrong, anybody feel free to correct me. but thats how i think its done


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by EsePatJ_@Nov 12 2008, 07:12 PM~12138904
> *HEy homies.... I just start gettin my fittings together... end everybody says "dont use teflon tape"... but in the pic on the 1st page it looks like everything its sealed with teflon...
> what kind of sealant can I use??
> *


those that have told you not to use teflon probably Loctite. It's a sealant that works VERY well and leaves the install seamless. Most are now turning to that BUT teflon properly applied will also do the trick. I use ALL teflon on my old dak and it sealed up VERY nicely. I could leave it locked up all year (... what I usually did for some reason).


----------



## EsePatJ

Thanx homies...
Loctite just on the bags!!
:biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## EsePatJ

Another Q... sorry if Im askin obvious things but for a 1st timer like me... aint nuthin obvious...
Ok, the dump valves... they dont connect to nothing, right?
They serve like an exhaust... or not?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by EsePatJ_@Nov 15 2008, 09:11 PM~12167897
> *Another Q... sorry if Im askin obvious things but for a 1st timer like me... aint nuthin obvious...
> Ok, the dump valves... they dont connect to nothing, right?
> They serve like an exhaust... or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


correct. Also when you get the LocTite, only use the 545 one.


----------



## hearse

> _Originally posted by foey_@Nov 16 2008, 09:39 AM~12170445
> *correct. Also when you get the LocTite, only use the 545 one.
> *


i was about to say that since no one else did  dont wanna fuck your shit up


----------



## hearse

what would be the best way to clean excess loctite off?


----------



## munozfamily

:biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by hearse_@Nov 18 2008, 03:49 PM~12192817
> *what would be the best way to clean excess loctite off?
> *


I used an ice pick to scrape it off once. I didn't go nuts on it, but I did enough to get it off. Don't know if that's the proper way, but it worked for me.


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

> _Originally posted by phatz_@Apr 30 2008, 09:07 AM~10539674
> *Offset cups. How should they sit in a control arm setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


thats upside down right?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Nov 21 2008, 11:34 AM~12220726
> *thats upside down right?
> *


no, it's the top. You can offset the upper cups slightly enough like that so the bag will work in a linear motion/clear the spindle and such.


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

my bag already rubs in the spring pocket  i cant move it


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Nov 22 2008, 08:23 PM~12232207
> *my bag already rubs in the spring pocket   i cant move it
> *


that means you still need to do some more trimming.


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

what would making my cups taller in the front? fill faster?


----------



## EsePatJ

I need more help homies!!...
Can some one post pictures showing the wiring of the sistem?
Im a bit confused with the connections between the solenoids on the valves and the switches and between the battery and the compressors... 
:dunno:
I found a manual for the installation with 1 compressor, but I wanna be sure if its the same with 2 compressors... :dunno: 

Thanx every body... 
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Nov 23 2008, 04:54 PM~12236626
> *what would making my cups taller in the front? fill faster?
> *


might work. no on the fill faster but lift will be somewhat faster. Keep in mind that your only adding to the cup, it has nothing to do with the fill time.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by EsePatJ_@Nov 25 2008, 04:51 AM~12251619
> *
> I need more help homies!!...
> Can some one post pictures showing the wiring of the sistem?
> Im a bit confused with the connections between the solenoids on the valves and the switches and between the battery and the compressors...
> :dunno:
> I found a manual for the installation with 1 compressor, but I wanna be sure if its the same with 2 compressors... :dunno:
> 
> Thanx every body...
> :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
> *


"I found a manual for the installation with 1 compressor, but I wanna be sure if its the same with 2 compressors... :dunno: "

That one will work for 2 also. All you need to do is add in a power dist. block for the compressors (1 for the power and ground using a 4 ga. wire from the batt. and one off the ground block) and wire like you did the first one using the power dist. block as the battery and ground. AND DON'T FORGET THE RELAYS, one relay ea. comp. 










"Im a bit confused with the connections between the solenoids on the valves and the switches and between the battery and the compressors... "

The connections from the valves to the switch box are like in the picture you posted. One of the poles on the Valve (as shown in the picture) goes straight to the switch box and another gets grounded. If you are doing the switches yourself, all you would need to do is wire the valves to 2 6 pole switches (imo) so you will have 4 connections and from there you can daisy chain the wires from the switches to others. 

Hope this makes sense.


----------



## EsePatJ

Thanx Foey... and yes it makes sense!!
About the fuses that you put in the diagram... how many amps?? each one...
:biggrin:


----------



## Simplicity

> _Originally posted by EsePatJ_@Dec 1 2008, 09:41 AM~12300372
> *Thanx Foey... and yes it makes sense!!
> About the fuses that you put in the diagram... how many amps?? each one...
> :biggrin:
> *


Sort of depends on the model of compressor. But 30-40 amp is good.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by EsePatJ_@Dec 1 2008, 07:41 AM~12300372
> *Thanx Foey... and yes it makes sense!!
> About the fuses that you put in the diagram... how many amps?? each one...
> :biggrin:
> *


comps 30/40 like Simplicity said, and a 100 to the main batt.


----------



## Fine59Bel

> _Originally posted by foey_@Dec 2 2008, 06:48 AM~12310298
> *comps 30/40 like Simplicity said, and a 100 to the main batt.
> *


damn, do I really need another set of fuses rite in front of my comps?? I got two 480's and rite now i just have 1 fuse under the hood on the 4 gauge running to the back and i thought that was enough. also, its a 50 amp. is that too small??


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Dec 3 2008, 07:38 PM~12327618
> *damn, do I really need another set of fuses rite in front of my comps?? I got two 480's and rite now i just have 1 fuse under the hood on the 4 gauge running to the back and i thought that was enough. also, its a 50 amp. is that too small??
> *


the fuses help from your relays getting too hot in which the poles on your relays will start to melt the plastic, thus disrupting the electric current. If your only running the main wire form the batt for the compressors only, just use an 80a fuse and then the 30a/40a for the relays. All this is to prevent your compressors getting damaged. Any kind of electrical damage isn't covered by the compressor warranty.


----------



## Fine59Bel

> _Originally posted by foey_@Dec 4 2008, 07:21 AM~12332241
> *the fuses help from your relays getting too hot in which the poles on your relays will start to melt the plastic, thus disrupting the electric current. If your only running the main wire form the batt for the compressors only, just use an 80a fuse and then the 30a/40a for the relays. All this is to prevent your compressors getting damaged. Any kind of electrical damage isn't covered by the compressor warranty.
> *


Im not using relays tho, i have a Square D. so does this still apply?? thanks


----------



## elitdogg

here is a question re6's use more psi less air right and re7's use more air less psi or are they the same cause im running 6's up front in my cutty and shit doesnt lift till i hit 120ish psi (due to the motor) but the back at like 80 psi will bounce like a hooker after she gets paid


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Dec 4 2008, 01:18 PM~12334907
> *Im not using relays tho, i have a Square D. so does this still apply?? thanks
> *


yes, you will need to put a fuse to that. Say a 80a one due to you using 2 compressors.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Dec 4 2008, 01:49 PM~12335157
> *here is a question re6's use more psi less air right and re7's use more air less psi or are they the same cause im running 6's up front in my cutty and shit doesnt lift till i hit 120ish psi (due to the motor) but the back at like 80 psi will bounce like a hooker after she gets paid
> *


"here is a question re6's use more psi less air right and re7's use more air less psi "

it's the same thing

"are they the same cause im running 6's up front in my cutty and shit doesnt lift till i hit 120ish psi (due to the motor) but the back at like 80 psi will bounce like a hooker after she gets paid"

it's about volume. There should be a thread about it on here. But in general the 6's take more air to lift vs. the 7's due to the diameter of the bag. Pretty much think of a midget trying to lift up a car vs. a tow-truck lifting it. 


Hope this helps and explains.... I need a brush up on volume and such... I also really hope I got this right.


----------



## Aceplatinum22

do the 2500 bags go in the front and 2600 back? So on the rear weld the bottom bracket and use all thread to go through the hole for the top of the spring housing??


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Aceplatinum22_@Dec 4 2008, 08:05 PM~12338845
> *do the 2500 bags go in the front and 2600 back?  So on the rear weld the bottom bracket and use all thread to go through the hole for the top of the spring housing??
> *


"do the 2500 bags go in the front and 2600 back?"

Both can go in either.

" So on the rear weld the bottom bracket and use all thread to go through the hole for the top of the spring housing??"

yes the rear bracket welds to the axle right under where the spring was and a upper cup that bolts to the upper spring pocket so that the bag is aligned and stays put.


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

make sure you cut your spring pocket. or else youll blow a bag


----------



## Aceplatinum22

do you have any pics of the install. where to mount front shocks


----------



## Simplicity

> _Originally posted by Aceplatinum22_@Dec 9 2008, 05:02 PM~12380560
> *do you have any pics of the install.  where to mount front shocks
> *












All GM vehicles are similiar.


----------



## foey

those with the Square D pressure switch. VERY informational vid about adjusting the pressure setting. 

http://media.putfile.com/How-to-adjust-your-pressure-switch


----------



## Aceplatinum22

do you have to run shock's in the rear after the factory air level shocks are removed when using bags instead..


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Aceplatinum22_@Dec 13 2008, 11:19 AM~12420125
> *do you have to run shock's in the rear after the factory air level shocks are removed when using bags instead..
> *


I would at least have something to limit the bag from over extending. Shocks also help with the ride quality.


----------



## 1940deluxe

any body has pictures of a 1940 chevy bomb front or rear set up for air bags 
from the front suspension on how to install the bag. and how can i do the
rear suspension im trying to do the whole thing myself any pictures would 
really help thanks.


----------



## eyeneff

> _Originally posted by Aceplatinum22_@Dec 13 2008, 12:19 PM~12420125
> *do you have to run shock's in the rear after the factory air level shocks are removed when using bags instead..
> *


You don't *have* to, but you will *want* to, especially on a Fleetwood.
They ride like shit without shocks, you can most likely use the factory mounts in the rear


----------



## EsePatJ

> _Originally posted by phatz_@May 14 2008, 10:21 PM~10658775
> *For the rear its a universal kit.
> 
> Put the car on jackstands, remove the rear coils/shocks/bumpstops.
> 
> Bolt the wheels on,
> jack up the rear end untill its fully laid out,
> place the over axle bracket you have ontop of the axle where the OG spring used to sit.
> Now take a tape measure and measure from the UPPER Spring pocket down to the TOP of the over axle bracket.
> 
> Take that measurement and minus 3 inchs [this is the 3" that will be the airbag fully collapsed]
> 
> So lets say you measure 6", that means your upper cup will measure 3" in total. Take the pipe we gave you, cut it down to 3" tall and weld on the circle plate with a couple 1" stich welds. Then take the threaded rod and weld it to the plate so you can bolt in the cup from the upper spring perch.
> The rear G-body cups are off-setted this is to keep the bag away from the frame. . this is how they should look when you are done.
> It should look like this
> http://www.ridetech.com/images/products/arr21100.jpg
> *


OK homies, finally we are working on my Cutlass... I understand how to take measures for the rear, but my questions are:
a.- How you take measures for the front??
b.-Where you weld the circle plate that it came w/ the kit/ on the lower A-Arm??
c.- I gotta put some of the pipe under the plate to give space to the airbag??
d.- Youu said that the airbag its 3" collpased, when it expands, its bigger than its normal size??

well, I´ll wait for some guide homies.
Thanx


----------



## Simplicity

> _Originally posted by EsePatJ_@Dec 17 2008, 07:01 AM~12453262
> *OK homies, finally we are working on my Cutlass... I understand how to take measures for the rear, but my questions are:
> a.- How you take measures for the front??
> b.-Where you weld the circle plate that it came w/ the kit/ on the lower A-Arm??
> c.- I gotta put some of the pipe under the plate to give space to the airbag??
> d.- Youu said that the airbag its 3" collpased, when it expands, its bigger than its normal size??
> 
> well, I´ll wait for some guide homies.
> Thanx
> *


The same is correct for the front, colapse the suspension as far as it will go
Measure from the bottom to the top. Subtract 3" and this will be the total height
of both upper and lower mounts combined.
b,c Yes probably.
d yes the bag get bigger with air inside it. 

What exactly did you buy?


----------



## EsePatJ

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Dec 17 2008, 08:40 AM~12453904
> *The same is correct for the front, colapse the suspension as far as it will go
> Measure from the bottom to the top. Subtract 3" and this will be the total height
> of both upper and lower mounts combined.
> b,c Yes probably.
> d yes the bag get bigger with air inside it.
> 
> What exactly did you buy?
> *


The things I bought was these...

kit 1


kit 2


kit 3


----------



## Fine59Bel

I got another question about these fuses. Im gona have one under the hood, I guess an 80amp. Then, with the way im wiring my pressure switch the power will be ran straight to the comps and the ground will be wat gets switched on and off. So, can I just use a fused distribution block with 30 amp fuses for each compressor? and these are 480s. Thanks


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Fine59Bel_@Dec 19 2008, 03:38 PM~12477239
> *I got another question about these fuses. Im gona have one under the hood, I guess an 80amp. Then, with the way im wiring my pressure switch the power will be ran straight to the comps and the ground will be wat gets switched on and off. So, can I just use a fused distribution block with 30 amp fuses for each compressor? and these are 480s. Thanks
> *


yes, it's like how I did mine. At the batt, I have a 100a fuse, then ran 4g to the back to a dist block (3 fuse capable) put in 40a fuses. After that it's the same as you would wire it normally. 8g to the relay and so on.


----------



## elitdogg

> _Originally posted by foey_@Dec 4 2008, 04:31 PM~12336188
> *"here is a question re6's use more psi less air right and re7's use more air less psi "
> 
> it's the same thing
> 
> "are they the same cause im running 6's up front in my cutty and shit doesnt lift till i hit 120ish psi (due to the motor) but the back at like 80 psi will bounce like a hooker after she gets paid"
> 
> it's about volume. There should be a thread about it on here. But in general the 6's take more air to lift vs. the 7's due to the diameter of the bag. Pretty much think of a midget trying to lift up a car vs. a tow-truck lifting it.
> Hope this helps and explains.... I need a brush up on volume and such... I also really hope I got this right.
> *



so the set up i have now would make more sense to put the 6's in back due to less weight and the 7's up front so it would lift faster. i just am sick of the front not budging untill 120psi. or would you suggest putting 7's all the way around?? 



also another question where the hell can i find a engine drivin kit for a 87 cutlass?? i want it all i found the yorks on ebay but you know i want the ease of swiping a card and having it at my door lol.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Dec 20 2008, 03:21 PM~12483991
> *so the set up i have  now would make more sense to put the 6's in back due to less weight and the 7's up front so it would lift faster. i just am sick of the front not budging untill 120psi. or would you suggest putting 7's all the way around??
> also another question where the hell can i find a engine drivin kit for a 87 cutlass?? i want it all i found the yorks on ebay but you know  i want the ease of swiping a card and having it at my door lol.
> *


"so the set up i have now would make more sense to put the 6's in back due to less weight and the 7's up front so it would lift faster. i just am sick of the front not budging untill 120psi. or would you suggest putting 7's all the way around?? "

I wouldn't put the 6's in the back, the ride will be too stiff and bouncy. Either way it won't really budge. The only way to really get it to move is more psi. The more psi you have shooting through, the faster the lift. The bags are more of ride quality. I would say to get 7's all around, this way the ride quality will be twice as good on either end. 

"also another question where the hell can i find a engine drivin kit for a 87 cutlass?? i want it all i found the yorks on ebay but you know i want the ease of swiping a card and having it at my door lol."

lol, there isn't really a kit. It's left for the fabricator really. This gives you the option though. Either swap out your a/c or place it next to the alt. It's up to you. Hope this helps.


----------



## elitdogg

yeah it does alot thanks homie. it just makes more sense to install 7's all the way around. and only way to keep psi up is either engine driven or more compressors. i just am not really sure what to get for the engine driven i know a york but what else do i need? and think its just worth it to do 2 more compressors? up upgrade to 2 higher compressors like 480's?. and i will be ordering alot more form you guys soon lol. hey do you guys sell just small sheets of sheet metal the install of my trunk kinda got hacked on the pass side and i wanna weld a piece in and fix that shit lol ( long story short you pay for what you get and 300 to weld bags and run line isnt alot lol )


----------



## elitdogg

oh and do you guys use special bolts for the bags?? i have some but they dont seem to fit correct?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Dec 21 2008, 03:05 PM~12490568
> *oh and do you guys use special bolts for the bags?? i have some but they dont seem to fit correct?
> *


as long as it's 3/8" grade 8 bolts you will be fine. 
The length is depending on how you install it or how long it is to the bag. 



> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Dec 21 2008, 03:03 PM~12490552
> *yeah it does alot thanks homie. it just makes more sense to install 7's all the way around. and only way to keep psi up is either engine driven or more compressors. i  just am not really sure what to get for the engine driven i know a york but what else do i need? and think its just worth it to do 2 more compressors? up upgrade to 2 higher compressors like 480's?. and i will be ordering alot more form you guys soon lol. hey do you guys sell just small sheets of sheet metal the install of my trunk kinda got hacked on the pass side and i wanna weld a piece in and fix that shit lol ( long story short you pay for what you get and 300 to weld bags and run line isnt alot lol )
> *


You will also need to get a water trap, check valve, the top portion fittings for the York, hydraulic line to the air tank.... I forget the rest but you get the idea. 
No, your going to get more amp draw and will need to upgrade your batt and alt. It's pointless really. The 480's is better, just don't go over 2... it may seem fast but for what it's worth... I'd juts go 2 480's as back up and edc as main comp. 
Good question, call up, never hurts to ask


----------



## eyeneff

> _Originally posted by foey_@Dec 23 2008, 08:53 AM~12506204
> *No, your going to get more amp draw and will need to upgrade your batt and alt. It's pointless really. The 480's is better, just don't go over 2... it may seem fast but for what it's worth... I'd juts go 2 480's as back up and edc as main comp.
> Good question, call up, never hurts to ask
> *


Good answer. I've been wondering the same thing. Seems stupid to throw down $300-$400 for more compressors that will just add to the fitting count (and the noise), and only shave off a couple minutes fill time.

Now I know this can depend on a lot, but _ballpark/average/rough estimate_ what should it cost to have a York/Sanden installed?

PM me if nobody wants to reveal a price.  
I don't want a specific quote from anyone, just trying to figure out a rough price range.


----------



## eyeneff

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Dec 21 2008, 04:03 PM~12490552
> *yeah it does alot thanks homie. it just makes more sense to install 7's all the way around. and only way to keep psi up is either engine driven or more compressors.
> *


I've been thinking the same thing homie, my bags are WAY too small for my big ass car LOL.
Homie I got it from said he put 5's in the front of my big body, 6's in the rear. :uh: 

What comps are you running now?


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

> _Originally posted by eyeneff_@Dec 24 2008, 01:14 AM~12513597
> *Good answer. I've been wondering the same thing. Seems stupid to throw down $300-$400 for more compressors that will just add to the fitting count (and the noise), and only shave off a couple minutes fill time.
> 
> Now I know this can depend on a lot, but ballpark/average/rough estimate what should it cost to have a York/Sanden installed?
> 
> PM me if nobody wants to reveal a price.
> I don't want a specific quote from anyone, just trying to figure out a rough price range.
> *


if youve got a lt1 its gonna be tough unless you can part with your AC


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

whats the right way to put your valves on the bag so if fills faster?


----------



## eyeneff

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Dec 25 2008, 01:42 PM~12524321
> *if youve got a lt1 its gonna be tough unless you can part with your AC
> *


Nope, I have a 93 so it has regular 350. I've heard it can be done on these, just not sure how much cause I know I can't do it. :biggrin:


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Dec 27 2008, 12:42 AM~12535008
> *whats the right way to put your valves on the bag so if fills faster?
> *


the closer I guess the faster it fills, but you will be increasing the stiffness of the ride (farther, say at the tank, you will get some le-way for the air to absorb with each impact... say a pop hole or some fucked up road you just so happen to be on). I doubt you will notice the left speed difference. What PSI you running now?


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

> _Originally posted by foey_@Dec 30 2008, 09:36 AM~12559004
> *the closer I guess the faster it fills, but you will be increasing the stiffness of the ride (farther, say at the tank, you will get some le-way for the air to absorb with each impact... say a pop hole or some fucked up road you just so happen to be on). I doubt you will notice the left speed difference. What PSI you running now?
> *


175


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Dec 31 2008, 10:28 AM~12568879
> *175
> *


lol, yeah your not really going to get anywhere with 175. The norm for a v6 or higher is around 120/150 psi to lift. That's just to get the damn nose up. Then you'll get about 50 or so psi left for the back which isn't that bad, but even at that your already refilling.


----------



## chackbayplaya

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Dec 10 2008, 11:16 AM~12388255
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All GM vehicles are similiar.
> *


any1 know wat kind of shocks are used??? i will be tryin this on a cutlass..


----------



## subliminalmatt

i just used the stock shocks front and back. the rears mount the same location. with the front you need to buy a relocator kit and cut off the bottom tabs that you used to bolt the bottom in with. you should be left with just the main bushing. figure out on the lca where you want to mount the lower part of the shock bolt it up and ur done. after baggin my 77 impala, install of shocks was less then 45 mins. welding up the front relocator brackets took the longest


also i ended up changing out the rear upper bolts to allen head bolts. makes for easier change.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by chackbayplaya_@Jan 3 2009, 09:21 AM~12592345
> *any1 know wat kind of shocks are used??? i will be tryin this on a cutlass..
> *


so far I have been using the nissan hb shocks (d22 or something like that I forget).


----------



## foey

For those who want more speed. 

1. Faster drop. It's simple. Think of your arms as a sling shot. The bag is the rubber you pull back and the psi is you on how MUCH you pull it back. So say you run 175 psi, you won't get much as someone using 200+. What your basically doing is adding more tension with the bag and psi. Now add in a large port size dump valve and dump valve and you got yourself a fast drop (it's like a straw, you won't get much air out of a thin holed straw as you would a larger holed one... hope this makes sense)... which can probably damage the living shit out of your tranny or something. 
Another way is using a dual port bag. That extra port at the bag is basically like a tire fill dealie (yeah I forget what that's called... sorry), but with the dump valve on there you have a faster way to get rid of the air inside the bag than waiting for it to flow through to where the dump and fill valve are with a single ported bag. 
I have seen where the dump valve is moved closer to the bag using a Tee fitting in the line on single ported bags. 

2. Faster lift. This mainly depends on your psi level. since no matter how you put it air being used is are being dumped. So if you are running 200 psi w/an electric comp, chances are you are NOT going to get that 200 psi again fast enough. One click and your comps will kick in having you wait for it to refill the tank back to 200 or whatever psi you have it set to. The same with ANYTHING you use to get air. Once it's used it GONE from the tank. 
Back to what I was saying... to get a faster set-up you need to increase your psi first, then you have the choice of increasing your air line size for more volume, which is just a small increase of air flow. You wouldn't really notice it if you ran the same psi. and not increasing it. 

I hope this makes sense and helps people out. 
*IF I LEFT ANYTHING OUT FEEL FREE TO ADD/CORRECT ME*


----------



## EsePatJ

Hey homies... I finally complete my installation...
Now... I got some questions...
a.-Is there any way to make the lifting and droppin slower?? Man!!! my cutlass jump like a bunny when I hit the switches... and sometimes I want to makes slow movements...
b.- When Im rollin deep... lets say 0 PSI on every bag... the car gets really bouncy :0 , It´s that normal??
c.- How long should it take to fill a 8,5 gallon tank with 2 480 viaair compresors??

I´ll be waiting for some answers... meanwhile Imma keep clownin street racers here in my home town!!


----------



## touchdowntodd

a - you can get mufflers or slow downs, like $8 a piece, screw right into the dump valves, slow it down by adjusting the screw
b - dont ride 0 psi man, please.. ride 20 psi atleast, you will be almost as low, and will ride better and bags will last longer.. the bouncy feeling is probably a combo of you bottoming out, and the internal bump stops if you are rollin slam bags
c - i would guess 3-4 minutes, but i never had that setup before.. my guess would be from 165-200psi


----------



## EsePatJ

thanx 4 the advice homie... yesterday I was trying and 20 PSI looks good too!
:nicoderm:


----------



## imp63ss

Anyone know what fittings to use at the top of my York and where I can get them. Thanks


----------



## foey

so far the only place is to go to Kilby Ent. site.


----------



## 8FLEET9

i've got the easy street bolt in kit for my 89 fleetwood. the front bags are pn 58507 not sure about the rear, they're whatever comes with that kit. anyways are the dominator 2500/2600 bags bolt in replacements for these bags or what?
thanks


----------



## HectorDaCockyPenis

I don't think so. The 25 is equal to a 2600 bag and the 26 is about the size of a 2800 bag. If anything you most likely got 2500 bags up front and 2600 bags in the back. I would just replace them with RE7's instead. I am not sure if you can get a 2800 size bag to fit in the rear.


----------



## FloRida




----------



## 8FLEET9

anyone else? is this fact?


----------



## GPone

> _Originally posted by 8FLEET9_@Feb 12 2009, 01:35 AM~12979622
> *anyone else? is this fact?
> *


my 2 cents, i prefer slams. they have built in stops, dont balloon outward. My 76 glasshouse has slam 8's all round. my car wieghs the same as your caddy. I have no issues with the way it works. But it all comes down to personal preference.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by 8FLEET9_@Feb 11 2009, 11:35 PM~12979622
> *anyone else? is this fact?
> *


Yes that is true. The dominators although I am happy to say is a far better design than their old banded designs, tends to balloon a lot. And yes the D25 is that of a 2600 lb. bag and the D26 is that of a 2800 lb. bag. I installed a D25 up front on a s10 blazer, I had to trim like it was a 2600 bag as well as offset the cups a little to prevent the bag from rubbing.


----------



## bigshod

> _Originally posted by foey_@May 7 2008, 01:36 PM~10601070
> *What u want to do is to get 1 Bimba 2/3 inch stroke mini cylinders. Hit up Ebay for one, search for Bimba air cylinders.
> That cyllinder goes in place of the spring up front.
> 
> The set will only a paddle switch, the bike is light so a good 60/80 psi may even hop. Tank, I like the compact CO2 bottles for paint guns. The tricky part would be the tank adapter will have a diagram for u 2morrow.
> 
> Too much 2 rite on a blackberry
> *


any more info on this...in case i missed it


----------



## foey

what would you like to know?


----------



## elitdogg

> _Originally posted by eyeneff_@Dec 24 2008, 01:21 AM~12513649
> *I've been thinking the same thing homie, my bags are WAY too small for my big ass car LOL.
> Homie I got it from said he put 5's in the front of my big body, 6's in the rear.  :uh:
> 
> What comps are you running now?
> *



sorry man been awhile but im running 1 380 wow and a 20 min fill time on a 7 gallon tank to 200psi is like getting raped by a baboon at the zoo


----------



## eyeneff

> _Originally posted by elitdogg_@Apr 6 2009, 10:36 PM~13501562
> *sorry man been awhile but im running 1 380 wow and a 20 min fill time on a 7 gallon tank to 200psi is like getting raped by a baboon at the zoo
> *


haha, yeah that's fucked. I had 2 380's on a 12 gallon, wasn't much better.
Traded that car for a juiced Linc, now I have no fill time  :cheesy:


----------



## elitdogg

well eyeneff you went to the dark side lol how the linc ride?? which one do you like better bags or dro's?


----------



## _Bandido_

just installed bags on my truck any special instructions for maintaining my air suspension kinda new to bags thanks in advance


----------



## HectorDaCockyPenis

make sure you keep as much water out of the system as possible.
watch your traps, if your put it off for later you may get into the habit of that and forget to empty them out.


----------



## chub rock

hey check it out i got a 1963 chevy step side im trying to put valves right on the bags for quiker response to the bag is that possible if so maybe you could walk me thru it get back at me peace out......


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by chub rock_@Jun 7 2009, 01:03 AM~14116225
> *hey check it out i got a 1963 chevy step side im trying to put valves right on the bags for quiker response to the bag is that possible if so maybe you could walk me thru it get back at me peace out......
> *


what do you have now? Set-up wise. bags, etc. You can do it, it's possible, but see about the space you have on your bag brackets. Make sure you can get something on there with no problems.


----------



## Aceplatinum22

I have see alot of pic of air bags in the front without bottom brackets on them, just a plate. If i have upper and lower brackets for a 94 fleetwood should i use them both. I take pic now n post i a sec.


----------



## Aceplatinum22




----------



## foey

if it comes with the kit then yes. You don't have to use cups or plates, but imo plates are better and you don't get the loud "donk" from the bag folding in itself when you deflate the bag. Not all people get the donk noise, for some the cups work perfectly, although when I had mine on my dak, they made that noise a lot, as well as on my blazer, but since I swapped out the 2500's and used the 26's, I'm doing okay. You got an 8, so I don't think you will get the noise.


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by foey_@Aug 31 2009, 05:53 PM~14938760
> *if it comes with the kit then yes. You don't have to use cups or plates, but imo plates are better and you don't get the loud "donk" from the bag folding in itself when you deflate the bag. Not all people get the donk noise, for some the cups work perfectly, although when I had mine on my dak, they made that noise a lot, as well as on my blazer, but since I swapped out the 2500's and used the 26's, I'm doing okay. You got an 8, so I don't think you will get the noise.
> *


CUT CUT CUT like a motha


----------



## BIGBEN

Hello I have a 71 chevy truck, put a basic $1000 setup in it but I'm tired of waiting for it to fill my question is what do you use in the bottle co2, nitrogen, compressed air? And is there a diagram on how to ad this and what all do I need to buy? Thank you for your time


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by BIGBEN_@Nov 13 2009, 07:19 PM~15658987
> *Hello I have a 71 chevy truck, put a basic $1000 setup in it but I'm tired of waiting for it to fill my question is what do you use in the bottle co2, nitrogen, compressed air? And is there a diagram on how to ad this and what all do I need to buy? Thank you for your time
> *


nitrogen, which the bottle is pressured at around 3K psi or above. You can't really own a nitrogen bottle, just rent it. You can own a Harris regulator though with will run a $100 or so. I am not sure but all you will need is a Nitrogen bottle, bottle brackets or something so keep the bottle from rolling around where you have it, a Harris regulator, and an air fitting that will be connected to the air out port of the Harris regulator, and air line/hydro line, copper/ss tubing etc. Set the regulator to what you want and what your ENTIRE set-up can handle and boom. Of corse you must always open and close the Harris valve to keep the nitrogen from coming out when your not using it.


----------



## ShibbyShibby

why the 545 loctite?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by ShibbyShibby_@Nov 16 2009, 01:35 AM~15676973
> *why the 545 loctite?
> *


it's a stronger hold. there are other types of Loctite, even ones in your local hardware store that are used for sealants, but 545 will withstand air baggers requirements (elements, strong seal, etc).


----------



## Simplicity

We use a lot of it here in the shop. It works very good. Better than anything Iv used. And Iv tried everything at one point or another.


----------



## BIGBEN

> _Originally posted by foey_@Nov 13 2009, 09:54 PM~15660711
> *nitrogen, which the bottle is pressured at around 3K psi or above. You can't really own a nitrogen bottle, just rent it. You can own a Harris regulator though with will run a $100 or so. I am not sure but all you will need is a Nitrogen bottle, bottle brackets or something so keep the bottle from rolling around where you have it, a Harris regulator, and an air fitting that will be connected to the air out port of the Harris regulator, and air line/hydro line, copper/ss tubing etc. Set the regulator to what you want and what your ENTIRE set-up can handle and boom. Of corse you must always open and close the Harris valve to keep the nitrogen from coming out when your not using it.
> *


Ok thanks for the info... So I'm pretty much adding a bottle with 3k psi but u can make it only put out 200 or 180psi or whatever u want and when I open the valve does it go into the tank I allready have? Sorry if these are stupid questions


----------



## BIGBEN

Also I got a hook up at a welding supply store and there tanks can only hold 2500-2800 max would that work... they are saying I prob only need 200-300 psi


----------



## foey

yes, you will be getting a constant air pressure (whatever you decide to set the regulator at, the air flow will be consistent to that, until it runs out). That will work, your pressure is never going to go past 600 psi (Slam Specialties makes an airbag that can handle that, although there is an 800 psi valve and the Air Lift valves that can handle more than 1K psi, your entire set-up has to be balanced). 200 is decent street pressure, enough to get you moving and a little off the ground.


----------



## BIGBEN

> _Originally posted by foey_@Nov 17 2009, 09:15 AM~15690022
> *yes, you will be getting a constant air pressure (whatever you decide to set the regulator at, the air flow will be consistent to that, until it runs out). That will work, your pressure is never going to go past 600 psi (Slam Specialties makes an airbag that can handle that, although there is an 800 psi valve and the Air Lift valves that can handle more than 1K psi, your entire set-up has to be balanced). 200 is decent street pressure, enough to get you moving and a little off the ground.
> *



So I should get there bottle that's 2500/2800 and have them pressure it all the way full


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by BIGBEN_@Nov 17 2009, 10:29 AM~15690152
> *So I should get there bottle that's 2500/2800 and have them pressure it all the way full
> *


yes, and no. What your system can handle is what your system can handle. just set it to either 200 and go up if you would like later on.


----------



## 1OGPana

Any advise on bagging a 1957conv belair
i just want F/B/S/S......any diagrams for that......any set up suggestions....cost?


----------



## foey

Do you want it fast? Manageable speed? is this for street or for show? how much is your budget? where are you located? are you willing to cut up the vehicle if needed? Do you NOT want to/avoid cutting into the vehicle? 

The set-ups are basic, bags and cups/plates for the front with shock relocating kit for a smoother ride, for the rear, it's a weld in axle bracket/or on trailing arm with upper bag cup. The main system is what you want, a compressor or compressors, edc, valves either the reg. 2 way or manifold valves, 2600 lb bags all around, what ever size air line you choose etc. Look within this thread and then several others to do research. If not ask again and I will do what I can to help you out. Also the forum sponsor is more than happy to answer your questions as much needed to get you started, as well as supply you with parts/kits/brackets etc.


----------



## starion88esir

Got a buddy wanting to put air on his 51 pickup with mustang 2 front end. But he only wants to run 4 valves, 3 switches for a simple up and down setup. No real playing, just park it and drop it. He's got SMC valves, would I just reverse the pos and neg to get them to dump or... it's been a while since I've messed with any air set ups. Just want to set it up right the first time for him.


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by starion88esir_@Jan 9 2010, 09:53 PM~16240700
> *Got a buddy wanting to put air on his 51 pickup with mustang 2 front end. But he only wants to run 4 valves, 3 switches for a simple up and down setup. No real playing, just park it and drop it. He's got SMC valves, would I just reverse the pos and neg to get them to dump or... it's been a while since I've messed with any air set ups. Just want to set it up right the first time for him.
> *


4 valves= front 2- 1 for dump one for fill and "T" them off so they run to each bag

Same for the rear

3 switches
1 for the front up/down
1 for the rear up/down
1 for both front and back up/down


----------



## foey

2 - 3 prong Carling switches
1 - 6 prong Carling switch


----------



## micheladas4me

> _Originally posted by foey_@Jan 19 2010, 09:42 AM~16337901
> *2 - 3 prong Carling switches
> 1 - 6 prong Carling switch
> *


so having these switches and 4 valves would allow, front, back and pancake?


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by micheladas4me_@Jan 19 2010, 02:13 PM~16339843
> *so having these switches and 4 valves would allow, front, back and pancake?
> *


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by micheladas4me_@Jan 19 2010, 02:13 PM~16339843
> *so having these switches and 4 valves would allow, front, back and pancake?
> *


yes


----------



## micheladas4me

ok on this diagram, it show these are for left and right bags. If i was just wanting front and back, would this still work, but just "T" off to the rears and fronts?

I think im making this harder than i need to be! d'oh!


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by micheladas4me_@Jan 19 2010, 06:23 PM~16342809
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok on this diagram, it show these are for left and right bags. If i was just wanting front and back, would this still work, but just "T" off to the rears and fronts?
> 
> I think im making this harder than i need to be! d'oh!
> *


Yes where it say's "fitting to air bag either right/left side that's wher you "T" off or somewhere down the line


----------



## NICE DREAMS




----------



## foey

Tech tip... copy paste etc. etc. instructions :dunno:

Using volume in your air system;

Reasons for smaller tanks is that no matter what, your max pressure will always be your limit, used pressure will always need to be replenished. Now fill time is basically due to the size of your tank. If you are thinking that putting in a larger tank as well as more comps, sorry but your making things worse. In fact you are using your volume wrong. You are increasing the volume in a place that doesn't need it. A good way of using volume is to increase air line/fitting sizes, as you may know (or not), D.O.T. brake line (Department Of Transportation) i.d. (inner diameter) one size smaller than it's o.d. (outer diameter) size, the same can also play into air fittings (all of them). 

Example 1: 1/2" air line has an O.D. that is 1/2" it's I.D. is 3/8" due to the hoses thickness

Example 2: some 5/8" brass T fittings have an I.D. of 1/2" due to the fitting's thickness

Exercise 1: 

You will need 
- 2 balloons
- 1 coffee stir straw
- 1 fast food straw

Step 1: take one of the balloons, placing one straw end into the balloon opening making sure it's sealed, blow into the straw, do not inflate balloon. 

Step 2: do the same for the next balloon using the fast food straw. 

what this exercise does is it demonstrates an air bag system in a way. You are the air system, the straws are the air line and the balloon well it's the air bag. So your end result should be that the small coffee stir straw requires more pressure to inflate the balloon to a decent/preferred speed. With the larger fast food straw, the inflation requires minimal pressure since it already has enough volume being released to through. 

How Volume can effect your fill time:

One thing I have learned is that once you use pressure it will always need to be replenished somehow. Either via, electric compressors, edc, etc. etc. What I also learned was that the size of your air tank can effect your fill time, which sucks like hell since your main goal is to get your damn system faster. 

Example 1: 
Say you are running the dual 480 ViAir pack with a 5 gallon tank. Now this has been tested through the company, but only to this extent of tank size. Connect this pack to a larger tank and your comps will need more time to fill up the remaining volume within the tank. 
(fill time calculator - *BOOKMARK*)

http://www.landisusa.com/calculator.html

- dual 480 compressors set to 200 psi on a 5 gallon tank is 1 min. 06 sec.

- dual 480 compressors set to 175 psi on an 8 gallon tank is 1 min. 21 sec. 
" set to 200 psi on an 8 gallon tank is 1 min. 46 sec. 


- NOTE: the amount of time it takes to fill up a system completely and the amount of time a person hits a switch/opens a valve, is also another factor when having air suspension. How much of a pause you give for your comps, edc, bottles to replenish the missing pressure is something to keep in mind when you play. 

I hope this helps.


----------



## baggedout81

Good glad you pinned this,saves me from typing so dam much all the time


----------



## foey

lol, me to. 

Continuation tip:

Pressure switches;

Pressure switches come either fixed (meaning they have set pressures for on and off) and adjustable (meaning that you are able to set the desired max pressure, but your fill pressure is usually 0 psi.). 

- 1. Once you use even the slightest amount of pressure in your system, the pressure switch will notice this and turn your comps on (weather is be electric compressors or engine driven compressor(s), then turn it (them) off when the pressure has reached the switches max psi. 

- 2. No matter what, weather your fixed or adjusted pressure, it is what it is and you will not go any higher than that. This in turn IS your play time. 

Ex. Say you are using a 10 gallon tank due to you feeling that because you have a larger tank, you will have more play time. Sorry but you are wrong. 

*Please to see my previous post (scroll up some). 

- 3. What gives a system more time is pressure, bottles and scuba tanks are rated within the thousands, so what pressure you need or use to get your vehicle moving is easily refilled from the larger compressed pressure. 

Ex 1. Compared to electric compressors and an edc, refill time is minimal, but there is one. Although the same volume rule applies to bottles and scuba tanks. 

Ex 2. 
- 145 on, 175 off; how many clicks is it before your compressor(s) turn on? 
- 165 on, 200 off; " "
- 0 on, 280 off; " "


----------



## baggedout81

To add to FOEY on #3 from above ^^^

In addition to pressure.We cant forget to talk about RESTRICTION.If you have restriction either by a pinched line or the big one.... 90 DEGREE FITTINGS.These can slow your system down.

---Think about it this way---

The shortest distance from point "A" to point "B" is a straight line right.

Use this method in AIR,WATER,HYDRAULICS what ever.The dro guys been doing this for years w/ using "Y" adapter's to the front=less restriction so on and so forth.

The DOT line we use is really pretty forgiving as long as it does not come in contact w/ heat or rubbing against any thing.So if you have to bend the line to get to a point w/o using a 90 do it.You'll thank your self later.Just dont get to carried away and get to a point that it's caving in on it self


----------



## foey

continuation of baggedout81's continuation of my previous continuation in which I am in reiteration to... I think


Forced pressure is crashing against the 90 degree fittings. The pressure is forcing the air at a very fast rate and due to the 90 being at the 90 degree angle, the air cannot make turn easily. Where as a 45 degree fitting provides more compensation to the turn. 

- Ex. You cannot make a 90 degree turn in a car going 100 mph's, this is why the NASCAR tracks are pretty much oval, they don't run them in squares.


----------



## baggedout81

Continuation to foeys original post that i continued to that he replied a continued to.






WHAT HE SAID


----------



## tko_818

:worship: the air suspension bible! big surprise that foey and baggedout81 are all up in it :biggrin:


----------



## Simplicity

you know for a year, Iv wanted to make nice downloadable diagrams on our sites. Damn so many things to do and no time in the day for shit.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Jan 29 2010, 11:28 AM~16450920
> *you know for a year, Iv wanted to make nice downloadable diagrams on our sites. Damn so many things to do and no time in the day for shit.
> *


I have some I made in PS


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68




----------



## ggabriel02

Tenhnique towards to goes on single word Tchnical !!!!!!! :wow: 
------------------------------------------
Auto Parts


----------



## Simplicity

Tech diagrams here

Well Foey, I started. Im 3-4 Diagrams in. I have many more to do that will take me weeks maybe years to add. But hey I started them. When I have more I will upload them here. Iv started with the basics. If anyone wants to add which ones to next. Just let me know.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

DAMN JUST WENT THROW THIS WHOLE THREAD :biggrin:


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Feb 24 2010, 03:08 PM~16712613
> *Tech diagrams here
> 
> Well Foey, I started. Im 3-4 Diagrams in. I have many more to do that will take me weeks maybe years to add. But hey I started them. When I have more I will upload them here. Iv started with the basics. If anyone wants to add which ones to next. Just let me know.
> *


I am finishing up a couple more


----------



## Simplicity

I made this today. I will try to do one a day for a bit.


----------



## foey

redid some previous ones, and have several ones unfinished (got some feebee's over the weekend :biggrin: )

- airbag placement diagram for more lift v. load leveling comparison:









- example of air valve self grounding:









- switch wiring (diode wiring diagram in the works):

















in the works right now are 

sway bar diagram
3 pole switch toggle using diodes
control arm effects - lift/drop
bolt-on axle bracket v. weld-on axle bracket
leaf spring/packet warp from mono-leafing
a couple of air valve plumbing diagrams
a couple more air valve self grounding
convoluted airbag travel good/bad


I am still in the process of trying to work with several people for shots of their vehicle suspension (stock) in order to have a more helpful install for those that wish to DIY their air systems. 

- I am going to try to do what Kevin is, will try to finish them within a day and post a.s.a.p.
for now though, I will be working on my Blazer more on account of receiving freebee parts. :biggrin:


----------



## foey

Nitrogen/Scuba tank fill/refill option idea


----------



## foey




----------



## foey

why you will need to remove your sway bar ** for those who want to roll a 3 wheel*

the purpose of a sway bar is to use the opposite sides force to push down on the opposing side which needs it. so basically it's to keep the wheels on the ground while keeping the body from swaying as much when turning. reason why a lot of tuners have them. what you need is the body sway and opposing force, this is to get the inertia to tilt the body. you will need to learn how to control that force. 

the reason for the individual corners to be on their own is due to how the sway bar works, also if you change one opposing sides height, the sway bar will in turn push down on that one side trying to keep it like the one side that is not lifted. 

hope this makes sense.


----------



## foey

Self Grounding Diagram:











let me know if it needs a more detailed explanation.


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by foey_@Mar 3 2010, 04:15 PM~16786099
> *Self Grounding Diagram:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me know if it needs a more detailed explanation.
> *


So your saying you can use either top post for hot lead or ground to vale correct.Dont matter


----------



## foey

yup, I have tested using either, works the same.


----------



## deerhunter

I've been following all the G body air bag topics, especially Posjr's 85 El camino buildup. With his car, I can see when he lets the air out, the axle moves forward and the wheel comes very close to the body. Is there anything that can be done to remedy that?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by deerhunter_@Mar 12 2010, 09:52 PM~16875939
> *I've been following all the G body air bag topics, especially Posjr's 85 El camino buildup. With his car, I can see when he lets the air out, the axle moves forward and the wheel comes very close to the body. Is there anything that can be done to remedy that?
> *


a slip yoke? The reason for the moving forward is that when the back lifts up, it naturally pulls forward. if you look closely at most juiced hoppers, you can see that when they lift the back very high, the distance from the wheel well rocker is fairly almost on top of the rear tire. it's nothing bad in a sense, it will naturally go back to it's place when you lower the rear. 

although this is a 4 link, keep in mind that g body's also have one, it's just called trailing arms. in this vid, it demonstrates how your rear suspension will be moving when lifted/dropped. hope this helps.


----------



## foey

Tech Tip for today:

*WTF is up with my electric compressor* :angry:

So basically when you get a used ViAir compressor, this is what I suggest you do first.
Take it apart, reason being, you DO NOT know what's the condition of it's internals. Weather the cylinder is rigid/corse from extensive use, the piston ring is damaged, the inline check valve on the leader hose is broken, etc. I am not doing a FULL write up, this is just things reg. people can do if they feel their compressor(s) have gone to shit. ALL parts pointed out are replaceable (one is a special order), but can be conveniently found at your Forum Sponsors site *(AAC)*, ViAir themselves or any other place that stocks them. 


1. You MUST heat up the bolts on the compressor head, this thing:










those bolts are protected from temperament with some kind of glue, it works great against heat but not immense heat, meaning that you will need to use a torch or something to heat the glue enough so that you are able to remove it with out having to chip at it or what have you. 

2. Take the bolts out, they are pretty long, the connect to the crank case, which is this:










After doing so, take the head off, take it watching out for another piece (I forgot what it's called, but it fits counter sunk under the head). Look at it, see of it's dirty or if there are any odd deposits on it, remove those. you don't want foreign shit floating around through the compressor nor your system. The head part can be purchased, but that inside piece is a special order (you will need to go to ViAir directly for that)










3. Moving on, we see the piston and cylinder, note to take special watch for the piston ring, make sure it's not worn/or broken. That will cause pumping problems slowing the compressor down (there isn't a seal anymore). Now look at the cylinder wall. The wall should be free of any kind of dust and what have you but should also be smooth, if it's all corse then it's not helping with the seal. Which also slows the compressor down. Changing the cylinder is easy, but the piston you will need some force. There is a hex/allen wrench bolt holding the piston to the motor, I forget what size it is, so it's best to have a hex/allen wrench set. To take the piston off, I used a cro-bar to pry the piston loose from the motor. Putting it back on was a little hard too but USE A LEAD HAMMER, it don't damage the motor but it will get the piston back on for you, DO NOT use a rubber mallet, it won't work.

Cylinder Wall









Piston









4. The crank case, well it's just a big cover, but there's stuff that can collect inside from all the pumping. Look in there and clean that fucker out. Make sure there's nothing inside that can come loose and fuck up the piston or anything else in the compressor. 










And there you have it. Once you finished, put it all back together and your done. Hopefully this has helped you out in determining WTF is up with my electric compressor. *NOTE* compressor dismantled was a ViAir 380*


----------



## foey

Symptoms of the inline check valve of a ViAir compressor are:

- fill time takes longer than it's rated for

- loss of air pressure

- fuse to compressor relay blowing out constantly

Now, you can either buy a new leader hose, OR you can just buy a new inline check valve SMC makes more of them (check Forum Sponsors site for these). Purchasing a more sturdy check valve will save you money, imo. I use these one from Windtrax, SMC poppet brass check valve (these are similar to the large 1/2" ones that came with York kits, I have also used the 1/2" one, no problem with them at all). 

Product ID: 450-4F4F-F Category: Check Valves
SMC BRASS POPPET CHECK VALVE
Product Name: 450-4F4F-F SMC BRASS POPPET CHECK VALVE
SMC Brass Poppet Check Valve
Stainless Steel Spring
Max 180Â° F
1200 psi
1/4" fpt x 1/4" fpt

Price: $6.07










http://www.windtrax.com/search_results.asp...arch=fromSearch


----------



## foey

Air Suspension General 03.14.2010

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...&#entry16888056


----------



## foey

electric compressor painting/mounting 

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=531497


----------



## hernandez9039

good idea man, i am sure these steps would be helpful to some of the boost readers.  
_____________________________________________________
Boob Job
Hair Straightener


----------



## foey

YORK 209 OWNERS!!!!! New info. Yup you heard it here. So you don't want to spend $50/or so on top fittings. Well TAP THEM!!! yes since the head plate is aluminum, it is very easy to tap. Take that bad boy off and drill it to 1/2" and tap it with 3/8 NPT.


----------



## 93caddy




----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

well I learned some new stuff to day


----------



## martinez7990

Thank you guys so much this is really helpful and i hope this is helping other newbies too.
___________________
B&B Ballina


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by martinez7990_@Apr 12 2010, 08:14 PM~17173989
> *Thank you guys so much this is really helpful and i hope this is helping other newbies too.
> ___________________
> B&B Ballina
> *


x2 got some great guys in the air form


----------



## trokezonly

need help bag-n 78 c10 useing cups up front cant fined instructions :dunno:


----------



## foey

Big Three Upgrade tutorial.


----------



## foey

Tech Tip for today: *ALWAYS* do this for front spring pockets

So you have to trim/cut out your spring pocket for bag clearance. YEAH!!!! now this is probably what you DON'T hear about. When trimming/cutting your spring pocket ALWAYS, yes ALWAYS make sure you trim/cut the pocket into a half moon (sorry BEST way to explain it). See pictures for more details, 1st how it should look, 2nd how it should NOT look, 3rd what happens if you DO NOT trim/cut a half moon like shape. 

1st









2nd









3rd









hope this helps and *PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF WHATEVER YOU BELIEVE IN, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME OR DO NOT DO IT AT ALL!*


----------



## lowfreeze

X2!!! 

oh and thanks for the compliment, you used a pic from my build :biggrin:


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by baggedout81+Mar 4 2010, 01:34 AM~16791729-->
> 
> 
> 
> So your saying you can use either top post for hot lead or ground to vale correct.Dont matter
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-foey_@Mar 4 2010, 01:44 AM~16791828
> *yup, I have tested using either, works the same.
> *


Worked great,either way


----------



## foey

I would like to remind all those who have questions/concerns as well as the newbies to air suspension to ASK AWAY. there is NO wrong questions! I as well as many others within the air suspension forum will do our best to see that your questions will be answered. 

*SAVE YOURSELF A HEADACHE AND ASK FIRST, TAKE YOUR TIME, AND ABOVE ALL DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!*


----------



## foey

copy and pasted this from a pervious post I made for a question.
Shown are the edc's that are used within the air suspension realm (see rest for additional info, *MAY NOT HAVE A COMPLETE WRITE DUE TO IT BEING AN SWER TO A QUESTION A FORUM MEMBER ASKED*). 



> _Originally posted by foey_@Dec 8 2009, 01:37 PM~15913093
> *lol, it's an "inline" oiler. Basically the suction from the Sanden is what helps provide the needed oil within the compressor in order for the pistons to keep lubed... lol... Sanden's are for more tight spaces but also provide a working order like a York, but for both, the fittings aren't easy to come by regularly. Here are the compressor that best suit the air suspension realm.
> 
> York 209, then the 210
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanden SD5 then SD7 - Sandens are pretty tricky when it comes to which one you "can" and "can't" use for the application you need it for. Just stick to these and you should be fine, rather than searching all over and finding one that you can't use and find out later when you already bought it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> inline oiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GET THIS ONE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's for air tools and will not be able to supply your compressor with the amount needed regularly.
> 
> this one is the one I used, I doubt it is still around, cost me a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice source of getting everything York of Sanden, although VERY expensive, is Kilby Ent. they have a lot of parts for them but again, I said it's very expensive esp. their brackets.
> *


----------



## baggedout81

^^^^Hummm where have i seen this??


----------



## foey

Compression fitting and PTC fitting tutorial *soon* to be up. BOTH work great, you just need to know how to install them properly. Hopefully my tutorial on them helps you.


----------



## trokezonly

hey has eny one herd of a RV2 a/c copresor? comes out of a late 60's erly 70's plymoth an old sku machanic from work told me they used them on air shocks bake in the day there V twin compresors they dont need to be oild as mutch i found at outo parts store ill get back to you guys lets see if it works


----------



## trokezonly




----------



## baggedout81

Compression fittings,can be found at about any hardware store.If you buy them buy some extra sleeves or the compression ring it self.I've had a few that just didnt seat right.

Thing about these is dont get all he-man on them just tighten them down snug.Then when you get your system pressurized crank them down till they dont leak.If they still leak replace the sleeve.


3 piece fitting








female end over the line then the sleeve or the compression it self 








Slide female end over compression sleeve to fitting it self








Tighten down


----------



## foey

To add - 

this is called a Tube Insert Sleeve, which goes inside the DOT tube. 

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/fittingsandadapters_2104_4294165

if you were to use this (which I recommend), it would go compression nut, sleeve ring, tube insert sleeve, then tighten. 

**IF USING HOME DEPOT COMPRESSION FITTINGS, BE CAREFUL WHEN TIGHTENING THE COMPRESSION NUT. YOU ARE LIABLE TO MESS UP YOUR DOT AIR LINE*

Now this is what the DOT compression nut fitting looks like:









and a sleeve ring that looks like this:









notice that it is not flat like the Home Depot type comp fitting. The Home Depot comp nut is like this and has a sleeve ring like this. 
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/fittingsandadapters_2104_4748438

comp nut like this:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/fittingsandadapters_2107_16925930
or this
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/fittingsandadapters_2107_22918136]


----------



## baggedout81

Ahh i seen the difference i just haven't had a problem w/ the style off the plumbing shelf.That is yet guess we'll find out what 300 psi of nitro does huh :biggrin:


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@May 26 2010, 08:36 PM~17615464
> *Ahh i seen the difference i just haven't had a problem w/ the style off the plumbing shelf.That is yet guess we'll find out what 300 psi of nitro does huh :biggrin:
> *


from the old write up, they apparently can hit 450 psi no problems.


----------



## foey

reference questions for newbies that want to be bagged, but don't know where to really start:

1. What are you looking for in the set-up? fast, smooth, is it for street, show, high lockups, level lock ups, lift/lower when parked/driving, etc. 

2. what's your budget? 

3. are you willing to cut? 

4. what size rims are you using now/future

*answering these questions will better help others guide you to what you are looking for. try to be specific in your answers as much as possible.


----------



## foey

SCUBA, yes it's back. I don't know if anyone saw my last posting about it all. 

Well basically to run a scuba tank, you *MUST* have these two things. 

K-Valve:
Yoke:









DIN:









take special notice in where the Yoke/DIN connect. Almost similar at a glance, but look closer and you will find they are different. 
now this is where it gets somewhat tricky if your not paying attention. 
*YOUR K-VALVE CAN COME IN THESE TWO VERSIONS (don't worry, there are adapters for these adapters, see pictures). 


DIN regulator:








**DIN ADAPTERS ARE MORE COMMONLY FOUND ON EUROPEAN SCUBA TANK/LIKE TANKS.*

Yoke regulator:








**YOKE ADAPTERS ARE MORE COMMONLY FOUND ON USA SCUBA TANK/LIKE TANKS.*

DIN to Yoke regulator:









Yoke/DIN adapter install video:





Complete yoke k-valve/regulator assembly.


----------



## bigshod

how do i level out the front when i hit the switch, the passenger side goes higher than the driver side ...pm me thank you :biggrin:


----------



## Simplicity

> _Originally posted by bigshod_@Jun 6 2010, 12:42 PM~17708384
> *how do i level out the front when i hit the switch, the passenger side goes higher than the driver side ...pm me thank you :biggrin:
> *


Is it a 2way or 4 way system?


----------



## baggedout81

Alright here's the Adjustable P-switch from AAC and i'm thinking mine is the same one.
http://www.airassisted.com/Air-Management-...oduct_info.html


Now in order for me to use a P-switch to the desired PSI i wanted i had to do a little modification.

*****NOTE*****This was for in my case a EDC (Engine Driven Compressor) application.

Also i would highly recommend a on/off switch just in case something fails you have the ability to shut everything down

THIS MODD IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR VIAIR'S ,AIR ZENITHS ETC. YOU WILL VOID WARRANTY IF YOU GO OVER THE FACTORY SPECIFICATIONS OF COMPRESSORS AND THE PRESSURE SWITCH TO MY KNOWLEDGE 


-Alright 1st you have to remove a holding ring that was on top (not pictured i forgot to take a pic) but you can see the grove where it was
-2nd unscrew the black sleeve it will come all the way off
-3rd remove the aluminum sleeve like pictured below
-4th reinstall black sleeve (THERE'S A SET SCREW IN THAT SLEEVE DON'T LOOSE IT YOU'LL NEED IT)
Turn down black sleeve till you get to desired pressure for EDC to turn off then tighten down the set screw.
*****NOTE**** The pressure get's really sensitive after you take that ring off so be careful










Sleeve i took out


----------



## bigshod

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Jun 7 2010, 05:21 AM~17714870
> *Is it a 2way or 4 way system?
> *


4


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Jun 9 2010, 02:58 PM~17739371
> *Alright here's the Adjustable P-switch from AAC and i'm thinking mine is the same one.
> http://www.airassisted.com/Air-Management-...oduct_info.html
> Now in order for me to use a P-switch to the desired PSI i wanted i had to do a little modification.
> 
> *****NOTE*****This was for in my case a EDC (Engine Driven Compressor) application.
> 
> Also i would highly recommend a on/off switch just in case something fails you have the ability to shut everything down
> 
> THIS MODD IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR VIAIR'S ,AIR ZENITHS ETC.  YOU WILL VOID WARRANTY IF YOU GO OVER THE FACTORY SPECIFICATIONS OF COMPRESSORS AND THE PRESSURE SWITCH TO MY KNOWLEDGE
> -Alright 1st you have to remove a holding ring that was on top (not pictured i forgot to take a pic) but you can see the grove where it was
> -2nd unscrew the black sleeve it will come all the way off
> -3rd remove the aluminum sleeve like pictured below
> -4th reinstall black sleeve (THERE'S A SET SCREW IN THAT SLEEVE DON'T LOOSE IT YOU'LL NEED IT)
> Turn down black sleeve till you get to desired pressure for EDC to turn off then tighten down the set screw.
> *****NOTE**** The pressure get's really sensitive after you take that ring off so be careful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sleeve i took out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



:thumbsup:


----------



## foey

set-up thread question/comments

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=546631


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by foey_@Apr 14 2010, 09:27 AM~17188892
> *Tech Tip for today: ALWAYS do this for front spring pockets
> 
> So you have to trim/cut out your spring pocket for bag clearance. YEAH!!!! now this is probably what you DON'T hear about. When trimming/cutting your spring pocket ALWAYS, yes ALWAYS make sure you trim/cut the pocket into a half moon (sorry BEST way to explain it). See pictures for more details, 1st how it should look, 2nd how it should NOT look, 3rd what happens if you DO NOT trim/cut a half moon like shape.
> 
> 1st
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope this helps and PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF WHATEVER YOU BELIEVE IN, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME OR DO NOT DO IT AT ALL!
> *



since the photos are gone. 
Bad:

















What will happen:









Correct:









Acceptable:

















**NO 90 DEGREE EDGES ON SPRING POCKET TRIM/CUTS*


----------



## foey

1989 Cadilac Fleetwood FWD info

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=547199


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by foey_@Jun 21 2010, 08:22 AM~17843846
> *1989 Cadilac Fleetwood FWD info
> 
> http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=547199
> *


from the topic. 

Vehicle - 1989 Cadilac Fleetwood FWD









FOR THE FRONT -
Your stock suspension:









So look into Air Lift Strut Bags, call in the forum sponsor and see if they have any in stock that will fit your vehicle (EXAMPLE PICTURE ONLY):









OR if it's possible, you can go with a Universal Air Suspension Strut Bag:
*this airbag replaces your stock coil AND allows you to keep your stock struts, adapter kit applies, SEE/ASK what will fit your vehicles application
http://www.airassisted.com/AirBags-Univers...oduct_info.html









Adapter kit EXAMPLE ONLY
http://www.airassisted.com/AirBags-Univers...oduct_info.html

FOR THE REAR -

Now your spring and shock may be separate, so all you would need is a 2500 lb. airbag to take the place of that spring (keep the stock shock where it is IF applicable). The 2500 lb. airbag has a diameter of 6" (exempting the Air Lift D25), if you need a smaller air bag, there is the Slam RE/SS 5, which is a 5" airbag or any other 5" airbag you can fit in there. 

*2500 lb. airbag - ALL THESE BRANDS CARRY THE 2500 lb. AIR BAG
http://www.airassisted.com/AirBags/c1/index.html









As for the brackets, you can MAKE THEM, if you can't weld, then *FIND SOMEONE THAT CAN AND GET YOURSELF A BRACKET KIT AND MAKE IT BOLT ON - AGAIN NO WELDING TO THE VEHICLE*
*DIY airbag bracket kit
http://www.airassisted.com/Metal-Fabricati...airbag-cup-kit-[fullsize-cars/truc/product_info.html


----------



## foey

4 link HTML calculator link

http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcal...html/index.html


----------



## Simplicity

> _Originally posted by foey_@Aug 1 2010, 02:44 PM~18199241
> *4 link HTML calculator link
> 
> http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcal...html/index.html
> *



Link = FAIL :biggrin:


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Aug 4 2010, 08:03 AM~18224903
> *Link = FAIL  :biggrin:
> *


GAH!!!!!!!   

http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcal...html/index.html

this one :cheesy:


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by foey_@Aug 4 2010, 02:00 PM~18227295
> *GAH!!!!!!!
> 
> http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcal...html/index.html
> 
> this one  :cheesy:
> *


It werks


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

:420:


----------



## foey




----------



## LOWRIDER3

> _Originally posted by foey_@Aug 6 2010, 09:08 AM~18244909
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Puff,Puff,Pass


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by LOWRIDER3_@Aug 6 2010, 10:59 AM~18245290
> *Puff,Puff,Pass
> *


time to take the ride out to night


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by JOE(CAPRICE)68_@Aug 6 2010, 05:55 PM~18247825
> *time to take the ride out to night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


:tears: I have a long time till I can do that 

for those with/want a Square D pressure switch and don't know how to adjust the pressure


----------



## DR.Luxurious

> _Originally posted by foey_@Jun 1 2010, 06:26 PM~17668321
> *reference questions for newbies that want to be bagged, but don't know where to really start:
> 
> 1. What are you looking for in the set-up? fast, smooth, is it for street, show, high lockups, level lock ups, lift/lower when parked/driving, etc.
> 
> 2. what's your budget?
> 
> 3. are you willing to cut?
> 
> 4. what size rims are you using now/future
> 
> *answering these questions will better help others guide you to what you are looking for. try to be specific in your answers as much as possible.
> *


1979 lincoln mark v. its 4650lbs from factory

1) smooth set up but decent speed dont wanna be slamming around. Its for street. wanna have a nice crusing height that i can adjust to what i like, a oem or higher clearence height, and slammed when parked. 

2) 2K. Can install myself with instructions

3) Prefer not to have to cut but if i gotta i will

4) currently 18" wheels with 225/45 series. tons of wheel well space everywhere. wanna stick with 18" rims but get higher profile tires.

I was looking at just ordering a kit off slam specialties but I need more info before I start.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by BMW740i_@Aug 31 2010, 07:19 PM~18454583
> *1979 lincoln mark v. its 4650lbs from factory
> 
> 1) smooth set up but decent speed dont wanna be slamming around. Its for street. wanna have a nice crusing height that i can adjust to what i like, a oem or higher clearence height, and slammed when parked.
> 
> 2) 2K. Can install myself with instructions
> 
> 3) Prefer not to have to cut but if i gotta i will
> 
> 4) currently 18" wheels with 225/45 series. tons of wheel well space everywhere. wanna stick with 18" rims but get higher profile tires.
> 
> I was looking at just ordering a kit off slam specialties but I need more info before I start.
> *


- the higher height may be a little harder to achieve since with cars you don't have room to move the bag around much. You can get OEM height though like nothing. I would suggest getting a 3/8" FBSS with 1/2" air line management kit. It's not as violent but it gets the job done. ss7's up front (keep in mind your vehicles engine is heavy v. a 4 banger engine) and either ss7's or 8's (8's if you can fit them) for the rear. Hit up AAC and piece together a complete kit for your ride. I have seen someone from Canada do up a 79 (I think), it was a 4 door (not sure if yours is a 2 or 4 dr. but should be the same none the less). 

- Sweet, call up AAC (forum sponsor for some instructions also on here). It's pretty simple though, the front will need cups and the rear will need you to weld the lower bag bracket to the axle (the upper bag mount is a cup). After that it's pretty much simple plumbing (that is up to you on simplicity/creativity). 

- You may have to cut the front to give clearance for the airbag (trim/cut is all dependent on how much clearance you will need for the airbag, i.e. what size you are using up front)

- 225/45's aren't as thin but aren't as thick of a tire, if you wish to upgrade to a larger rim size make sure you measure the overall diameter (meaning that you include the tire size along with your rim size). 

do you plan on laying frame? or are you okay with whatever drop overall?


----------



## DR.Luxurious

> _Originally posted by foey_@Sep 1 2010, 07:40 PM~18464755
> *- the higher height may be a little harder to achieve since with cars you don't have room to move the bag around much. You can get OEM height though like nothing. I would suggest getting a 3/8" FBSS with 1/2" air line management kit. It's not as violent but it gets the job done. ss7's up front (keep in mind your vehicles engine is heavy v. a 4 banger engine) and either ss7's or 8's (8's if you can fit them) for the rear. Hit up AAC and piece together a complete kit for your ride. I have seen someone from Canada do up a 79 (I think), it was a 4 door (not sure if yours is a 2 or 4 dr. but should be the same none the less).
> 
> - Sweet, call up AAC (forum sponsor for some instructions also on here). It's pretty simple though, the front will need cups and the rear will need you to weld the lower bag bracket to the axle (the upper bag mount is a cup). After that it's pretty much simple plumbing (that is up to you on simplicity/creativity).
> 
> - You may have to cut the front to give clearance for the airbag (trim/cut is all dependent on how much clearance you will need for the airbag, i.e. what size you are using up front)
> 
> - 225/45's aren't as thin but aren't as thick of a tire, if you wish to upgrade to a larger rim size make sure you measure the overall diameter (meaning that you include the tire size along with your rim size).
> 
> do you plan on laying frame? or are you okay with whatever drop overall?
> *


1) Yeah I would definately Try 7's and then 8's in the back. Should I measure the outside and/or inside diameter of my springs to give me an idea of what I can fit?

I can live with stock hieght for clearence. Mines a 2 door. 

2) I found a really good guy locally who can do them but I am keeping my options open. Any pics of the cups so I have an idea of what im dealing with.

3) cutting is no big deal but again I would prefer to avoid it.

4) Current wheels and tires are about 10-11% smaller then stock and it really throws my car off. They are 225/45/18, OEM is 235/75/15. I would like to do 225/60/18. Im sure they would fit if I dropped it right now. Wheel wells are massive... Any thought on tire size for lowering/slamming vehicles?

5) My exhaust is the lowest part of my vehicle besides the frame. I would like it to lay right down as low as possible. Frame would be cool but I dont wanna damage the custom exhaust. Any advice? Had an idea of welding blocks to the frame that are 1/2 lower then the lowest part on my car so it would rest on them good idea or stupid?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by BMW740i_@Sep 1 2010, 10:16 PM~18465924
> *1) Yeah I would definately Try 7's and then 8's in the back. Should I measure the outside and/or inside diameter of my springs to give me an idea of what I can fit?
> 
> I can live with stock hieght for clearence. Mines a 2 door.
> 
> 2) I found a really good guy locally who can do them but I am keeping my options open. Any pics of the cups so I have an idea of what im dealing with.
> 
> 3) cutting is no big deal but again I would prefer to avoid it.
> 
> 4)  Current wheels and tires are about 10-11% smaller then stock and it really throws my car off. They are 225/45/18, OEM is 235/75/15. I would like to do 225/60/18. Im sure they would fit  if I dropped it right now. Wheel wells are massive... Any thought on tire size for lowering/slamming vehicles?
> 
> 5) My exhaust is the lowest part of my vehicle besides the frame. I would like it to lay right down as low as possible. Frame would be cool but I dont wanna damage the custom exhaust. Any advice? Had an idea of welding blocks to the frame that are 1/2 lower then the lowest part on my car so it would rest on them good idea or stupid?
> *


- Your springs are usually around 5" in diameter. Measure 7"s to see how much will need to cut within the spring pocket to give you an idea of what it takes to get the 7" in. If you want to go smaller on the bag up front I would not really suggest it unless you do not intend to play (just lift/drop park).

- check the first page in this thread, there should be a couple pictures that were posted as well as one of what an offset cup looks like (you may need to do that). 

- It's a must when fitting larger bags up front. Sometimes you won't have to (but I have only heard of impalas having that much room for a 7" bag) but it's not the case with your vehicle, with a smaller bag 6" you will need to trim around the pocket v. cutting it. 

- check to see how much exactly you have within your wheel wells. Take off the springs/shocks up front on one side, put a jack under your lca and lift till it stops. That will be your max front drop. The same with the rear, at some point your axle will hit the frame or it could be your tires that will hit the wheel well first, you will need to see this to get a better idea of the initial drop. From there you can decide if you want to go lower (may require you cutting/notching, etc. for clearance of axle/tie rods/lca/etc. all depends on what is in the way of the drop you want).

- I wouldn't, if your drop fast that would donk the ground pretty hard rattling your frame up some. If you don't want to mess with the exhaust, do suggested in question #4 to get an overall idea of what is going on when the vehicle is at it's full/allowed drop. If the exhaust is dangerously close to the ground I would use bump stops to lessen the drop and keep the exhaust in the clear. You can get low profile to stock bumps like nothing.


----------



## DR.Luxurious

> *- Your springs are usually around 5" in diameter. Measure 7"s to see how much will need to cut within the spring pocket to give you an idea of what it takes to get the 7" in. If you want to go smaller on the bag up front I would not really suggest it unless you do not intend to play (just lift/drop park).
> 
> - check the first page in this thread, there should be a couple pictures that were posted as well as one of what an offset cup looks like (you may need to do that).
> 
> - It's a must when fitting larger bags up front. Sometimes you won't have to (but I have only heard of impalas having that much room for a 7" bag) but it's not the case with your vehicle, with a smaller bag 6" you will need to trim around the pocket v. cutting it.
> 
> - check to see how much exactly you have within your wheel wells. Take off the springs/shocks up front on one side, put a jack under your lca and lift till it stops. That will be your max front drop. The same with the rear, at some point your axle will hit the frame or it could be your tires that will hit the wheel well first, you will need to see this to get a better idea of the initial drop. From there you can decide if you want to go lower (may require you cutting/notching, etc. for clearance of axle/tie rods/lca/etc. all depends on what is in the way of the drop you want).
> 
> - I wouldn't, if your drop fast that would donk the ground pretty hard rattling your frame up some. If you don't want to mess with the exhaust, do suggested in question #4 to get an overall idea of what is going on when the vehicle is at it's full/allowed drop. If the exhaust is dangerously close to the ground I would use bump stops to lessen the drop and keep the exhaust in the clear. You can get low profile to stock bumps like nothing*


Just read through the entire thread. My front springs are pretty massive. Ill have to measure next time im under there. One thing though is that my front shocks run through the center of the srping. So Im guessing I would have to relocate them? I forget if the back is the same.

Ill definately wanna go 7 if not even 8 up front. The cups and plates I have seen on here and on air assit are a great idea as for having to trim the front I seen that people trim the frame but do you also have to trim the L/BCAs?

Thats a great idea to determine wheel clearence. I think ill wait however to get my suspension going before I worry about it. gotta take one thing at a time lol. 

Bumps stops is so obvious. I slapped my forehead when I read that haha.

Ill get my bag clearence and cutting and suspension stuff sorted out first and then report back. Ill try and do a full DIY sort of deal with pics. Ill keep you updated. Thanks for all the info.

-Dylan


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by BMW740i_@Sep 4 2010, 11:29 PM~18489260
> *Just read through the entire thread. My front springs are pretty massive. Ill have to measure next time im under there. One thing though is that my front shocks run through the center of the srping. So Im guessing I would have to relocate them? I forget if the back is the same.
> 
> Ill definately wanna go 7 if not even 8 up front. The cups and plates I have seen on here and on air assit are a great idea as for having to trim the front I seen that people trim the frame but do you also have to trim the L/BCAs?
> 
> Thats a great idea to determine wheel clearence. I think ill wait however to get my suspension going before I worry about it. gotta take one thing at a time lol.
> 
> Bumps stops is so obvious. I slapped my forehead when I read that haha.
> 
> Ill get my bag clearence and cutting and suspension stuff sorted out first and then report back. Ill try and do a full DIY sort of deal with pics. Ill keep you updated. Thanks for all the info.
> 
> -Dylan
> *


- Measure your spring pocket diameter, see how much you have to work with pertaining to the 7"s that you will need plus say about your thumbs worth of space between the bag and anything metal. 

- that depends on what is in the way of your drop that you want. For the most you may just have to trim you pockets, but always do a mock up to see what you have to work with. 

- Always, no use rushing things esp. if you get them wrong and have to deal with it later. lol, it happens. No problem


----------



## DR.Luxurious

Here is some pics of my suspension. As you can see the top of the spring goes into a pocket of the frame, and not the UCA. The pocket is a tight 7" in diamater. How would I got about fitting an air bag in there.


----------



## DR.Luxurious

Pics are shitty from my iphone.


----------



## baggedout81

Shocks gotta go-but you car probably relocate them somewhere else.Maybe not those exact ones
upper bag cup will sit in the stock spring location
lower bag cup sits in lower control arm spring location

Check this out.Slam Specialties 6" or a firestone 2500 would be about as small as i would go.But w/ just a little more cutting you get a little bit bigger bag in there and improve ride
http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...ic=406790&st=40


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by foey_@Apr 25 2010, 10:25 PM~17299921
> *I would like to remind all those who have questions/concerns as well as the newbies to air suspension to ASK AWAY. there is NO wrong questions! I as well as many others within the air suspension forum will do our best to see that your questions will be answered.
> 
> SAVE YOURSELF A HEADACHE AND ASK FIRST, TAKE YOUR TIME, AND ABOVE ALL DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!
> *


TTT


----------



## baggedout81

BMW740i

This what i was talking about earlier w/ the shock.Got from a few pages back
























Please folks read thru this entire topic from page 1 to what ever.There's tons of knowledge within just a few pages


----------



## foey

doesn't look like you'll be able to get a cup on your lca's. Might want to plate the lca like how they do with the 1964 Impala kits. Also it helps to prevent bag roll over which in your case can cause damage to the bag. 

noticed this, looks like it will get in the way. as for your sway bar, you can keep it if you want to but I would suggest getting this adapter kit that allows you to still have the use of your sway (normally if you keep it stock, the bushings will tear up VERY fast due to the drop and the amount of stress from the drop effecting the sway bar). 










also refer to the picture baggedout81 posted, that will give you a good idea of how much you may need to trim off the spring pocket as well as shock relocation and cups. 


:wave: what up bagged :biggrin:


----------



## baggedout81

What it dewwww my asia brotha


----------



## cartier01

there a guy selling me this set up let me know what u guys think. 2 re6 slambags, 1 re7 slambag, 4 smc 1/2" valves , avs 9 switch control, 3 gallon tank, and a oasis 3000 compressor everything all used for 400


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by cartier01_@Oct 19 2010, 12:11 PM~18850752
> *there a guy selling me this set up let me know what u guys think. 2 re6 slambags, 1 re7 slambag,  4 smc 1/2" valves , avs 9 switch control, 3 gallon tank, and a oasis 3000 compressor everything all used  for 400
> *


That's a pretty good deal if everything works


----------



## cartier01

what bags do you recomend for a 83 cadillac deville. and are these vavles any good or which one are better


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by cartier01_@Oct 19 2010, 02:06 PM~18851706
> *what bags do you recomend for a 83 cadillac deville. and are these vavles any good or which one are better
> *


I'd at least do re7 bags all around.You might be able to get a re8 in the back i cant remember 

Depends on what series them valves are.Some of the older ones people were having a hard time finding parts for them.They were kinda flat unlike the square ones that are readily available


----------



## foey

should be able to, them 83's are b bodies.


----------



## foey

thought this is a nice fun fact for some: *ALL IMAGES MAY VARY DEPENDING ON APPLICATION BEING APPLIED*

Bellow Bag:









Sleeve Bag:









Strut Bellow:









Shock bag:









Shock sleeve bag:









Strut bag:









Strut sleeve bag:


----------



## SPANISHFLY

i want to bag my 53 chevy bomb all stock what bags do you recomend


----------



## playboi13

How hard is it to do the plumbing and wiring. can i do it myself.. im pretty handy. i had my bags installed at the shop on shrader valves and just got the air management stuff.. i installed all my car audio. and have done brakes, struts and what not.. how long would it take..


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Nov 20 2010, 02:00 PM~19118004
> *How hard is it to do the plumbing and wiring. can i do it myself.. im pretty handy. i had my bags installed at the shop on shrader valves and just got the air management stuff.. i installed all my car audio. and have done brakes, struts and what not.. how long would it take..
> *


If you can run car audio wire you can run air line.Just make sure to keep it away from heat an sharp objects or anything that could rub against the air line causing a leak down the road.

As for wiring and plumbing up your valves just start at the beginning of this topic and read


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Nov 20 2010, 12:06 PM~19118028
> *If you can run car audio wire you can run air line.Just make sure to keep it away from heat an sharp objects or anything that could rub against the air line causing a leak down the road.
> 
> As for wiring and plumbing up your valves just start at the beginning of this topic and read
> *


cool thanks.. i've read this whole thread and it seems pretty straight forward and simple... are there any things that I should know , like do i need to coat or use any special lube or sealant when putting together the plumbing. or any other need to know stuff..


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## foey

teflon is the cheapest, LocTite 545 is also an option.


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Nov 20 2010, 03:51 PM~19118568
> *cool thanks.. i've read this whole thread and it seems pretty straight forward and simple... are there any things that I should know , like do i need to coat or use any special lube or sealant when putting together the plumbing. or any other need to know stuff..
> *


I've always said this....Run as big of lines and fittings an you can.Its WAYYYY cheap to slow a air system down than it is speed it up,slow downs are cheap.So running 1/2" everything is pretty much the norm.Ohh and NO 90 degree fittings if you want it quick.

I've used both teflon tape and locktite 545.I just never had luck w/ teflon but locktite is sooo much easier.I always cover about 1/2 the threads then hand tight then either 1/4 to 1/2 turn w/ a wrench.Havent had a leak yeat this way.Then just wipe off what gets pushed out DONE.

Ohhh an check ebay if you decide to go w/ lictite.You can probally get it cheaper than at a local store.I know here they wanted $50 for the same bottle i got off ebay for $20 shipped


----------



## bigshod

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Nov 20 2010, 02:57 PM~19118874
> *I've always said this....Run as big of lines and fittings an you can.Its WAYYYY cheap to slow a air system down than it is speed it up,slow downs are cheap.So running 1/2" everything is pretty much the norm.Ohh and NO 90 degree fittings if you want it quick.
> 
> I've used both teflon tape and locktite 545.I just never had luck w/ teflon but locktite is sooo much easier.I always cover about 1/2 the threads then hand tight then either 1/4 to 1/2 turn w/ a wrench.Havent had a leak yeat this way.Then just wipe off what gets pushed out DONE.
> 
> Ohhh an check ebay if you decide to go w/ lictite.You can probally get it cheaper than at a local store.I know here they wanted $50 for the same bottle i got off ebay for $20 shipped
> *


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Nov 20 2010, 02:57 PM~19118874
> *I've always said this....Run as big of lines and fittings an you can.Its WAYYYY cheap to slow a air system down than it is speed it up,slow downs are cheap.So running 1/2" everything is pretty much the norm.Ohh and NO 90 degree fittings if you want it quick.
> 
> I've used both teflon tape and locktite 545.I just never had luck w/ teflon but locktite is sooo much easier.I always cover about 1/2 the threads then hand tight then either 1/4 to 1/2 turn w/ a wrench.Havent had a leak yeat this way.Then just wipe off what gets pushed out DONE.
> 
> Ohhh an check ebay if you decide to go w/ lictite.You can probally get it cheaper than at a local store.I know here they wanted $50 for the same bottle i got off ebay for $20 shipped
> *


I've read that before when you say 1/2 " everywhere , 
easier to slow down than speed up.
so let me ask does that include the leader hose from 
compressor, and does it matter if the bag ports are 3/8"


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by foey_@Oct 7 2008, 08:21 AM~11800681
> *Yes the rear has to be welded in. the front is optional. Can you describe the bracket.
> *


Foey, when you say its better to weld rear brackets instead of
bolt because of bag twist on axle and what not, does this include
all applications, ex. my vehicle is a fwd, also do both the bottom 
and top need to be welded in place .


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Nov 22 2010, 05:47 PM~19135291
> *Foey, when you say its better to weld rear brackets instead of
> bolt because of bag twist on axle and what not, does this include
> all applications, ex. my vehicle is a fwd, also do both the bottom
> and top need to be welded in place .
> *


if the brackets need to be on your axle or anything round, it MUST be welded in properly or else it's nothing at all. fwd vehicles do not have to worry about that though. what vehicle/model/yr. etc.


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Nov 22 2010, 05:32 PM~19135160
> *I've read that before when you say 1/2 " everywhere ,
> easier to slow down than speed up.
> so let me ask does that include the leader hose from
> compressor, and does it matter if the bag ports are 3/8"
> *


No,dont matter between compressor an tank.The compressor can only pump out so many cfm past the check valve an get restriction from built up pressure in tank

1/2" helps for the front even greater.But for teh most part 3/8" in the rear is gonna be quick enough=less weight


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by foey_@Nov 22 2010, 06:53 PM~19136337
> *if the brackets need to be on your axle or anything round, it MUST be welded in properly or else it's nothing at all. fwd vehicles do not have to worry about that though. what vehicle/model/yr. etc.
> *


my current baby is a '92 chrysler imperial fwd it has coil springs next to air shock in rear(auto leveling was stock)


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Nov 23 2010, 02:08 AM~19140575
> *No,dont matter between compressor an tank.The compressor can only pump out so many cfm past the check valve an get restriction from built up pressure in tank
> 
> 1/2" helps for the front  even greater.But for teh most part 3/8" in the rear is gonna be quick enough=less weight
> *


ok so do you mean1/2" everything for front and for back 3/8" everything or just dumps or just line and fitting or what, im gonna buy soon and want to make sure i order right.
couple other questions 
what specific items do i do 45degree on.

how many port air tank do i need if im gonna do two tank twocomp 8valve setup,
i dont really understand what tank ports are all for besides comp and valve


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Nov 23 2010, 11:48 AM~19142521
> *my current baby is a '92 chrysler imperial fwd it has coil springs next to air shock in rear(auto leveling was stock)
> *


your front you will need to have a strut bag and the rear you will probably have a bellow bag since your coil and shock are separate like you said. (if possible a shot of your suspension both front and back - one shot front, one shot back suspension).


----------



## playboi13

is there a way i can get these wiring diagrams and plumbing pics in a pdf file,
ive gone on some websites (airassisted) but they're not as good as the ones on this thread.. let me know and i"ll pm you my email so you can send.. will really help me out thanks


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Nov 30 2010, 11:29 AM~19200271
> *is there a way i can get these wiring diagrams and plumbing pics in a pdf file,
> ive gone on some websites (airassisted) but they're not as good as the ones on this thread.. let me know and i"ll pm you my email so you can send.. will really help me out thanks
> *


which ones do you need? I did several of them and have the files, can convert to pdf for you.


----------



## Simplicity

This reminds me. I need a crack for adobe, my trial ran out. I want to make some more PDF's this off season for spring. The ones on our 
www.airassisted.com site are popular, it really helps the noobs.


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by foey_@Nov 30 2010, 06:45 PM~19204287
> *which ones do you need? I did several of them and have the files, can convert to pdf for you.
> *


i would like the ones on page one of this thread, and the ones u put up of self grounding the valves, and any other that would be informative on installing the tank, valves, compressor(s), line, fittings, etc.. thanks


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Dec 1 2010, 08:34 AM~19208378
> *This reminds me. I need a crack for adobe, my trial ran out. I want to make some more PDF's this off season for spring. The ones on our
> www.airassisted.com site are popular, it really helps the noobs.
> *


pm'd


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Dec 1 2010, 11:52 AM~19209507
> *i would like the ones on page one of this thread, and the ones u put up of self grounding the valves, and any other that would be informative on installing the tank, valves, compressor(s), line, fittings, etc.. thanks
> *


this will take me a little time. The diagrams on the first page were not me, I started posting in later in this thread, but will get you what I can pertaining to installs.


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by foey_@Dec 1 2010, 12:50 PM~19210425
> *this will take me a little time. The diagrams on the first page were not me, I started posting in later in this thread, but will get you what I can pertaining to installs.
> *


 OK. thank you very much. its greatly appreciated..


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Dec 1 2010, 02:46 PM~19210775
> *OK. thank you very much. its greatly appreciated..
> *


 pm me your email addy.


----------



## playboi13

Just wanted to say thanks to airassisted, i placed my order last week, recieved it this morning, Kevin was very helpful also.. :biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Dec 6 2010, 03:30 PM~19254995
> *Just wanted to say thanks to airassisted, i placed my order last week, recieved it this morning, Kevin was very helpful also..  :biggrin:  :biggrin:
> *


x2


----------



## playboi13

why do some wiring diagrams show the pressure switch being ground and the relay (pressure switch,power, ignition, compressor) and others show pressure switch to relay and ignition and the relay(ground,ps,power, compressor


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Dec 8 2010, 01:55 PM~19273835
> *why do some wiring diagrams show the pressure switch being ground and the relay (pressure switch,power, ignition, compressor) and others show pressure switch to relay and ignition and the relay(ground,ps,power, compressor
> *


as far as I know pressure switch is positive.And my relay had to be grounded too. For it to work.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

the only thing diffrents in mine is that I used a relay from Nape auto parts.







Other then that, that's how I did mine, Also used 100amp fuses instead of 70amp.


----------



## baggedout81

Pretty cool write up on electric compressors 

http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/suspens...test/index.html


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Dec 8 2010, 02:55 PM~19273835
> *why do some wiring diagrams show the pressure switch being ground and the relay (pressure switch,power, ignition, compressor) and others show pressure switch to relay and ignition and the relay(ground,ps,power, compressor
> *


I've used both.On the ones like these an the ones that come w/ viair comp's (junk btw)
http://www.airassisted.com/
an wired it up like this.Grounds off relay










But when i used my york i used this one (adjustable).It has a blue (hot lead) an black (ground)
http://www.airassisted.com/

I wired it a little different
pins on relay 
-86..Ignition 12 volt
-30...12 volt fused.Now this wire is the hot feeding the relay or the "Hot in".I didnt need much being the wire off the york was only about 16 gauge.Now if i were wiring up a viair this wire would have had to be the same gauge that comes w/ the compressor.
-87...Went to York...The other side of the hot or the "Out" feeding power to compressor
-85 went to the blue wire off of above posted adjustable p-switch.Now i added a on/off switch between the relay and p-switch so i would have the ability to turn it on/off when need be.

The all that was left was to ground the black wire off the pressure switch.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Dec 8 2010, 11:46 PM~19280448
> *I've used both.On the ones like these an the ones that come w/ viair comp's (junk btw)
> http://www.airassisted.com/
> an wired it up like this.Grounds off relay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But when i used my york i used this one (adjustable).It has a blue (hot lead) an black (ground)
> 
> *


:0 damn I ran my power wire to the black :wow: and ran the blue wire "'adjustable switch'' to my relay..Well it works good :happysad: ......Also nice write up... :h5:


----------



## Simplicity

Yes, a lot of good stuff here. The pressure switch really can interupt either. I just like to put it on the ground of the relay. Habit really.


----------



## playboi13

first off let me thank everyone on here for ur help, especially foey and baggedout81... i installed my system yesterday :biggrin: and i gotta say that was alot easier than i thought,, bout half as hard as car audio imo... so i went with 1/2" valves line and fittings.. i gotta say this bitch is fast as fuck.. it gets up like a 14yr old boner.. quick... my only question is i dont seem to have much choice of ride height, when i lift it ,especially @ 200.. it lifts all the way, and dump almost as quick, any thoughts homies.... again thanks for everything.. i clowned on some fools last night.. :biggrin: :cheesy: :0


----------



## Simplicity

practice tappin the switch! or invest in some flow controls, so you can be "controllable" one day, and clown the next.


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Dec 11 2010, 10:35 AM~19300887
> *practice tappin the switch!  or invest in some flow controls, so you can be "controllable" one day, and clown the next.
> *


i did try barely hittin the switch, it worked a little, but it seems if those valves open for a split sec, that bitch is liftin, i"ll prob get some valve controls, but its fine for now... btw kevin, i was the one that called yesterday askn bout swtichbox power to continuous or ignition.. thnx


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Dec 11 2010, 11:20 AM~19300781
> *first off let me thank everyone on here for ur help, especially foey and baggedout81... i installed my system yesterday :biggrin: and i gotta say that was alot easier than i thought,, bout half as hard as car audio imo... so i went with 1/2" valves line and fittings.. i gotta say this bitch is fast as fuck.. it gets up like a 14yr old boner.. quick... my only question is i dont seem to have much choice of ride height, when i lift it ,especially @ 200.. it lifts all the way, and dump almost as quick, any thoughts homies.... again thanks for everything.. i clowned on some fools last night.. :biggrin:  :cheesy:  :0
> *


Glad we could help :thumbsup: 

Like i've said before.It's a hell of allot easier running big line the first time.If it's to fast its cheap to slow it down

Fill side to slow down---Like Kevin said put in some inline slow downs.I like the steel SMC ones

Slow the dump down---You could add ^^^^ SMC on the dump side.Or if you wanna get cheap.Go get a plug an drill out the center small at first.Then if its to slow drill a little bigger till you like how its drooping.Done


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

if i was him I would just get a adjustable pressure switch.200 psi is fast..I like 150-175 psi because I can get it where I want,And its still fast.


----------



## Simplicity

Good advise again.

Wont cost much to drill out four plugs, and run an adjustable pressure switch for the days you want to clown.


----------



## playboi13

ok.. thanks guys.. will consider all info.. i think im fine for the moment, we'll see what we do.. but i think i cant use adjustabe ps cuz it voids warranty with viair480 , correct me if im wrong.


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by playboi13_@Dec 13 2010, 05:02 PM~19316967
> *ok.. thanks guys.. will consider all info.. i think im fine for the moment, we'll see what we do.. but i think i cant use adjustabe ps cuz it voids warranty with viair480 , correct me if im wrong.
> *


Your fine aslong as you dont go above 200 psi


----------



## dragginbonez

this thread is fantastic. 
Both for guys that know what we're talkin about or the newbs w/ no clue.
Loads of respect for takin the time to share this.


----------



## the length

might be a stupid question but 
on the front bags on my cutty the top cup is secured with the threaded rod through the shocker hole with washer and double nutted,
i have the bottom with threaded rod going through the large hole in the bottom arm(where the bottom of the shock bolted in) and fabbed a washer to hold it in place , do people weld the bottom cups in or am i on the right line with the washers, they just seem like they might move ???


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by the length_@Feb 3 2011, 07:23 AM~19775832
> *might be a stupid question but
> on the front bags on my cutty the top cup is secured with the threaded rod through the shocker hole with washer and double nutted,
> i have the bottom with threaded rod going through the large hole in the bottom arm(where the bottom of the shock bolted in)  and fabbed a washer to hold it in place , do people weld the bottom cups in or am i on the right line with the washers, they just seem like they might move ???
> *


I did the samething like you^ homie, with the bottem.If there bolted down, they won't move,plus you got the weight of the front holding it down.


----------



## the length

sweet !! think i might weld the washers in place just for peace of mind


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by the length_@Feb 3 2011, 07:42 AM~19775922
> *sweet !! think i might weld the washers in place just for peace of mind
> *


can't do wrong on that :biggrin:


----------



## the length

i will put some pics up and show what i mean


----------



## the length

not the washer or rod thats on it now this was just as i was mocking up, but you get the idea,also pic of the bag in place, this is with the car on stands so the wheel is hanging on the bag,


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

looks fine to me.Just cut that bottem bolt down more.


----------



## the length

already done it, was just mocking up, now has a machined washer that fits in the shocker hole,
also just mocked up my york, havent found any pics on here about fitting on a 400ci pontiac so ive just fabbed one that i hope will work
just tacked for now so i can add a tensioner


----------



## baggedout81

Looks good.You putting the trap at the tank then?


----------



## the length

yeah gonna run a small catch tank after a filter with a tap on the bottom to drain, trouble is im trying to do all this in the u.k where you cant get shit like this so im having to fab or use shit from truck and tractors etc,
does it matter having the tank that far away from the york ?


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by the length_@Feb 3 2011, 03:22 PM~19778721
> *yeah gonna run a small catch tank after a filter with a tap on the bottom to drain, trouble is im trying to do all this in the u.k where you cant get shit like this so im having to fab or use shit from truck and tractors etc,
> does it matter having the tank that far away from the york ?
> *


Yeah thats been done before by others an worked.Personally i'd weld plates inside kinda like a maze would be,trying to keep the oil inside an not pass into the tank in back.I'd still run a drain off the tank in back.You'll still get a bit of moisture an oil built up


----------



## the length

cheers homie good advise !!! will keep you posted


----------



## natisfynest

Bump its not deleted just not pinned


----------



## baggedout81

Question is why did it get moved from being pinned??There's allot of useful info


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Mar 1 2011, 10:33 PM~19993902
> *Question is why did it get moved from being pinned??There's allot of useful info
> *



x2


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

x3


----------



## baggedout81

I'm gona keep bumping it everyday.It's just waisted bandwidth but its important for new comers to air to read thru


----------



## Simplicity

Im not sure. I didnt do it. I would have to find a mod to put it back.


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Simplicity_@Mar 2 2011, 10:32 AM~19996759
> *Im not sure. I didnt do it. I would have to find a mod to put it back.
> *


x2 those who posted info in this thread didn't do all that for nothing.


----------



## Simplicity

I sent an email, should be back tonight.


----------



## baggedout81

:thumbsup:


----------



## ezurcher

Ok got a question for you guys. I got a easystreet digital controller kit from you guys a while back. I have always had the problem of the computer of the air kit killing my batteries, since i only drive it once a week or so. I tried just pulling out the fuse on the red power wire on it to see if it would kill it, and it did not. the red l.e.d light stayed on in the computer unit. Im trying to find a place on the unit I could put a switch or something so its not drawing power from the batteries untill switched on. And also I have a 100amp fuse by main battey and then i have 120amp breaker at the back before going into the other battery. Should I just take the 100amp fuse close to main out and only run 120amp breaker or does it even matter. Thanks for any Information


----------



## UCETAH

SALT LAKE UTAH


----------



## 77 buick

were do I get a new check valve??? is that somthing I can get at homdepot // Or do I have to order one...anybody know?


----------



## foey

http://www.airassisted.ca/us/Air-Managemen...oduct_info.html

http://www.airassisted.ca/us/Air-Managemen...oduct_info.html

http://www.airassisted.ca/us/Air-Managemen...oduct_info.html

http://www.airassisted.ca/us/Air-Managemen...oduct_info.html

http://www.airassisted.ca/us/advanced_sear...k+valve&x=0&y=0


----------



## baggedout81

Or you can pick a check up off ebay.Just stick to name brands parker,deltrol etc.An make sure it has a low crack pressure


----------



## 77 buick

cool thanx guys


----------



## WelshBoyo

im pretty new to this....... ive been offered a kit for my 1988 vw golf and ive been given the chioce of 4 6 or 8 soleniods? what the differnece and why the option?


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by WelshBoyo_@Apr 17 2011, 04:01 PM~20359538
> *im pretty new to this....... ive been offered a kit for my 1988 vw golf and ive been given the chioce of 4 6 or 8 soleniods? what the differnece and why the option?
> *


For four valves you can do front and back.^Six valve's you can do front and back and ,also drop's each side independently.Eight valves you can rise and drop all four wheels independently .I always say go with eight.jmo


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

getting ready it put my 68 back together and do my edc at the same time.So will this work with a psi of 250?Safely? http://www.airassisted.ca/us/product_info....&products_id=98 Thinking of using hydro line for the output to the tank?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by JOE(CAPRICE)68_@Apr 21 2011, 07:39 PM~20392415
> *getting ready it put my 68 back together and do my edc at the same time.So will this work with a psi of 250?Safely? http://www.airassisted.ca/us/product_info....&products_id=98 Thinking of using hydro line for the output to the tank?
> *


YES SIR


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by foey_@Apr 22 2011, 06:32 AM~20395232
> *YES SIR
> *


time to get it then :run: where do I go for fittings?


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

for the rv2?thanks


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by JOE(CAPRICE)68_@Apr 22 2011, 08:40 AM~20395508
> *time to get it then :run: where do I go for fittings?
> *


hope this helps

try this place
http://www.docsblocks.com/

ref. pix
http://www.instructables.com/id/On-Board-A...pressor-to-use/

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=879906

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/sho...ead.php?t=49504


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by foey_@Apr 23 2011, 07:15 AM~20401757
> *hope this helps
> 
> try this place
> http://www.docsblocks.com/
> 
> ref. pix
> http://www.instructables.com/id/On-Board-A...pressor-to-use/
> 
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=879906
> 
> http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/sho...ead.php?t=49504
> *


Thank's for the info


----------



## Benny G

Restored my 58 and I'm going to bag it again, but this time I want to do it the right way. Got 2 pumps and 2 tanks, going to keep front and back seperate. I see people use relays, what size and how are they wired. Also want to put a kill switch. (40amp, 4 or 5 wire lead?) If any body can show a diagram that would be cool. Thanks


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by Benny G_@Apr 26 2011, 02:44 PM~20424312
> *Restored my 58 and I'm going to bag it again, but this time I want to do it the right way. Got 2 pumps and 2 tanks, going to keep front and back seperate. I see people use relays, what size and how are they wired. Also want to put a kill switch. (40amp, 4 or 5 wire lead?) If any body can show a diagram that would be cool. Thanks
> *


go back to the first few pages


----------



## Benny G

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@Apr 26 2011, 12:51 PM~20424368
> *go back to the first few pages
> *


Thanks.
Just wanted to see if that was still the right way and/or if anybody had another way.


----------



## baggedout81

> Thanks.
> Just wanted to see if that was still the right way and/or if anybody had another way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When i wired mine up i added a toggle between pin 86 an the pressure switch or maybe it was between 12volt source an pressure switch.Either way works


----------



## Benny G

> Thanks.
> Just wanted to see if that was still the right way and/or if anybody had another way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When i wired mine up i added a toggle between pin 86 an the pressure switch or maybe it was between 12volt source an pressure switch.Either way works
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Thats the way I'll do it.
Click to expand...


----------



## Benny G

Wut is the correct relay to use, a 4 or 5 wire plug. I heard you can use the 5 and cut one off (which one?).


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by Benny G_@Apr 28 2011, 01:17 PM~20440356
> *Wut is the correct relay to use, a 4 or 5 wire plug. I heard you can use the 5 and cut one off (which one?).
> *


the only difference between the 4 pin to 5 is that you get an extra pin (87a; you won't be using it). The layout is the same for either.


----------



## sideshow187

Question? I just purchased a 8 port tank for my build. My set up will eventually consist of 8 valves, 2 comps a pressure gauge(for tank).I will also have to add pressure switches. Will I need to run 1 or 2 pressure switches . I think I am 2 ports short. What can I tee?
ports
1. rf valve
2. lf valve
3.rr valve 
4.lr valve
5. drain
6. compressor 1
7. compressor 2
8. gauge line
? pressure switches?

help! do I need a different tank or can I tee some stuff?


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by sideshow187_@May 12 2011, 06:13 AM~20536040
> *Question? I just purchased a 8 port tank for my build. My set up will eventually consist of 8 valves, 2 comps a pressure gauge(for tank).I will also have to add pressure switches. Will I need to run 1 or 2 pressure switches . I think I am 2 ports short. What can I tee?
> ports
> 1. rf valve
> 2. lf valve
> 3.rr valve
> 4.lr valve
> 5. drain
> 6. compressor 1
> 7. compressor 2
> 8. gauge line
> ? pressure switches?
> 
> help! do I need a different tank or can I tee some stuff?
> *


1. rf valve
2. lf valve
3.rr valve 
4.lr valve
5. drain
6. compressor 1 - option 1
7. compressor 2 - option 2
8. gauge line - option 3

you only need one, you can tee it off anywhere. as long as the pressure switch is able to read/gauge how much pressure is in the tank you will be fine.


----------



## sideshow187

is it better to run the front air lines under the carpet or under the car? Anyone got any pics?


----------



## baggedout81

> _Originally posted by sideshow187_@May 16 2011, 01:59 PM~20563729
> *is it better to run the front air lines under the carpet or under the car? Anyone got any pics?
> *


 under car.Keep it as close to inside the frame as you can.An secure it down w/ grommets or at the very least zip ties.Make sure it doesn't rub anything an that its away from heat


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by baggedout81_@May 16 2011, 01:03 PM~20563747
> *under car.Keep it as close to inside the frame as you can.An secure it down w/ grommets or at the very least zip ties.Make sure it doesn't rub anything an that its away from heat
> *


 Thats what I used,also give air line some slack.Just seen another air ride car, with there line all tight??And his line ripped out, the front bag


----------



## sideshow187

Where does the line run for the front bags? I am a newb and wanna do it right. Pics would be awesome


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by sideshow187_@May 17 2011, 06:39 AM~20569379
> *Where does the line run for the front bags? I am a newb and wanna do it right. Pics would be awesome
> *


I'll take some pics of mine


----------



## sideshow187

Figuring out my fittings. 86 cadillac fleetwood
For the front ptc should I do straight or 90s. The brackets I have do not have provisions for 90s so I am guessing straight.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

> _Originally posted by sideshow187_@May 19 2011, 11:16 AM~20585882
> *Figuring out my fittings. 86 cadillac fleetwood
> For the front ptc should I do straight or 90s. The brackets I have do not have provisions for 90s so I am guessing straight.
> *


you should always run straight fittings if you can.Here is how I have mine in the front


----------



## low1964low

> _Originally posted by foey_@Jun 6 2008, 08:34 PM~10816759
> *Looks good. :thumbsup:
> 
> did a little reading about the Air Amplifier. Thought people could use this info if they come across one some day.
> 
> Air amplifier is easy to mount and maintain reducing both compressed air consumption and noise levels. It takes energy from a small volume of compressed air to produce a high velocity, high volume, low pressure output air flow.
> 
> Air amplifier is quiet, efficient, can amplify flows up to 20 times their input air consumption rate.
> 
> Air Amplifier Features:
> No moving parts
> More compact, simple, lightweight and portable
> Driven by air, not electricity
> Air Amplifier - How It Works
> Compressed air flows from the supply inlet (1) into an annular chamber (2) and then throttled by an annular gap (3) resulting in high velocity air which adheres to the Coanda profile (4) which directs the flow outward. The low pressure area at (5) draws in a high volume of surrounding air (6) producing high volume, high velocity output flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about getting one so I don't have to get a EDC. It's a cheap substitute, and by far close to the real thing, but seems cool. Don't really care about fill time right now.
> *


hey this post is from 2 years ago but i cant find and air bag application for the air amps. great idea. same principal used for water born paints but as for as auto airbags. show me some love give me an update plzzzz??? :wow: :wow: :wow:


----------



## foey

> _Originally posted by low1964low_@May 19 2011, 03:30 PM~20587102
> *hey this post is from 2 years ago but i cant find and air bag application for the air amps. great idea. same principal used for water born paints but as for as auto airbags. show me some love give me an update plzzzz??? :wow:  :wow:  :wow:
> *



lol, read later in the thread. I deemed it as a lost cause. It's BEST attribute is the amplification of the air BUT it can't do a constant amp to the air being fed to it, only short bursts in which you would still have to wait for the air to fill/amp then release, repeat.


----------



## TxGalaxie64

Im planing out an air system for a 64 galaxie and i was wondering if theres any way of getting around cutting the upper cups in the front to fit some RE7s? I want a very aggressive set up thet will pop up on 3 along with your front back side to sides without compermising the origanal suspension components, incase i want to put the springs and leafs back in one day.


----------



## foey

TxGalaxie64 said:


> Im planing out an air system for a 64 galaxie and i was wondering if theres any way of getting around cutting the upper cups in the front to fit some RE7s? I want a very aggressive set up thet will pop up on 3 along with your front back side to sides without compermising the origanal suspension components, incase i want to put the springs and leafs back in one day.


the upper cups you are referring to are called spring pockets. you will still be able to replace the OE spring into the pocket (please to review on how to cut the pocket correctly). If you are unable to fit the airbags within the area of interest, either go smaller or cut for clearance. 
As for your leafs, you have several options BUT I would suggest you do some research on what you want from your set-up and IF it is possible to go back to stock after/if alteration/altering.


----------



## TxGalaxie64

Ive heard of people leaving shocks out of the picture but ive also heard of horror stories from doing this. Im assuming its not a very good idea to build a street car setup with out shocks? or maybe just in the back? what are the best kind of shocks for hopping on air?


----------



## foey

TxGalaxie64 said:


> Ive heard of people leaving shocks out of the picture but ive also heard of horror stories from doing this. Im assuming its not a very good idea to build a street car setup with out shocks? or maybe just in the back? what are the best kind of shocks for hopping on air?


It's not ideal really because you risk over stretching the airbag. for the most since most of the front set-ups with RWD vehicles, you don't have to worry about the front, but the back is another story (front has the spindles limiting the overall extension, the rear will cause a problem because if you do not have anything limiting the extension of the airbag, you risk it tearing from the pressure). 

When building a hopper, even for street, it's not a good idea to have shocks in general. with the pressure and constant lift/dump movement on the shock, it will just end up breaking from excessive usage, which they are not meant for. Shocks are meant for softening the road conditions, as much as possible (bumps, potholes, etc.), they will slow you down. What you will need to use to limit the airbag is either chains or limiting straps. This way your lift/drop will not be slow and more fluent. 

With most vehicles it's fine with the back but it mainly depends on the application you are putting into the vehicle (i.e. street, show, etc.). On my old Dakota, I didn't have shocks for a while. Although I know how to drive the vehicle if it doesn't have any, I still put them in eventually because I didn't hop as much and ended up keeping to a simple form of play (hope that makes sense).


----------



## TxGalaxie64

foey said:


> It's not ideal really because you risk over stretching the airbag. for the most since most of the front set-ups with RWD vehicles, you don't have to worry about the front, but the back is another story (front has the spindles limiting the overall extension, the rear will cause a problem because if you do not have anything limiting the extension of the airbag, you risk it tearing from the pressure).
> 
> When building a hopper, even for street, it's not a good idea to have shocks in general. with the pressure and constant lift/dump movement on the shock, it will just end up breaking from excessive usage, which they are not meant for. Shocks are meant for softening the road conditions, as much as possible (bumps, potholes, etc.), they will slow you down. What you will need to use to limit the airbag is either chains or limiting straps. This way your lift/drop will not be slow and more fluent.
> 
> With most vehicles it's fine with the back but it mainly depends on the application you are putting into the vehicle (i.e. street, show, etc.). On my old Dakota, I didn't have shocks for a while. Although I know how to drive the vehicle if it doesn't have any, I still put them in eventually because I didn't hop as much and ended up keeping to a simple form of play (hope that makes sense).


Yea i saw something on chane bridges i think on this thread but how about air cylinders? what are the advantages/disadvantages compaired to bags in the rear? i know there better for locking up but do they require shocks? and what are some good places to find info/pics/products when it comes to the best in air cylinders?


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

TxGalaxie64 said:


> Ive heard of people leaving shocks out of the picture but ive also heard of horror stories from doing this. Im assuming its not a very good idea to build a street car setup with out shocks? or maybe just in the back? what are the best kind of shocks for hopping on air?


 well said :420:


----------



## Simplicity

Hoping, and shocks really don't go together. because the shocks job is to control wheel movement. If you want to hop, odds are you will run no shocks.


----------



## Benny G

I bought a couple of massair comp's from e-bay, but they have metric 12mmx1(?) exhaust ports. Were can I get fittings to adapt to standard fittings.:dunno::banghead:


----------



## Simplicity

Ouch, try a local pneumatics supply stores.


----------



## Benny G

Ya tried several places, but no one seems to have adapters from metric to standard. Found one place that can order me some, but not cheep. Just to let everyone know if your looking for comps on ebay the massair comps from a fonziesincmassairlastone are metric. Stay away from those fitting are hard to find and aint cheep.


----------



## k louie

just a quick ? my rear driverside bag wont get air when i hit the swithch how can check to see if the valve works


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

Benny G said:


> I bought a couple of massair comp's from e-bay, but they have metric 12mmx1(?) exhaust ports. Were can I get fittings to adapt to standard fittings.:dunno::banghead:


 try you local ag store first.The one's that deal with hydro or air farm stuff


----------



## low1964low

Need some info. Have a leak in my dump valve. Switched valves, switched the spring and diaphragm in the pluming still has a slow leak. i also have slow downs on the dump but i am guessing that wont affect anything. Any ways i was wondering what else is in the pluming it self on the valve. to me it looks as if i will just have to get the valve bracket (what i call it) to fix the leak?????


----------



## foey

low1964low said:


> Need some info. Have a leak in my dump valve. Switched valves, switched the spring and diaphragm in the pluming still has a slow leak. i also have slow downs on the dump but i am guessing that wont affect anything. Any ways i was wondering what else is in the pluming it self on the valve. to me it looks as if i will just have to get the valve bracket (what i call it) to fix the leak?????


you will need a spray bottle with soap and water. start spraying all over the lines, valves, fittings, etc. once you start to see bubbles, you will find your leak.


----------



## foey

k louie said:


> just a quick ? my rear driverside bag wont get air when i hit the swithch how can check to see if the valve works


a direct connect to the batt should do. connect the ground first, then the power (all you are really doing is listening for a click).


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

ttthttp://www.layitlow.com/forums/28-feedback/295519-great-topic.html


----------



## TxGalaxie64

Tell me what yall think of this








anyone thank this would work? any problems? suggestions?


----------



## baggedout81

Why the dual ports on the front bags?

An does that accumulator have 2 cambers?one for each wheel in the back?


----------



## TxGalaxie64

baggedout81 said:


> Why the dual ports on the front bags?
> 
> An does that accumulator have 2 cambers?one for each wheel in the back?


there slamspecialties XS7 im going with those for the higher pressure rating i think like 600psi and yes its a 1 gallon tank split in half so 1/2 gal per wheel.
and i dont know what to do with the bottom port on the cylinders i saw someone had the same question on here a while back but i forgot what post it was.


----------



## foey

air filter or else the pint'd up air created by the piston when being air'd up will a place to escape and the use will be pointless.  you can add in an extra set of valves (2) to get the cylinder to suck up and stand a dog leg as well.


----------



## mwherna

How much psi or how many compressors would I need to feel 2 5 gallon tanks?


----------



## foey

mwherna said:


> How much psi or how many compressors would I need to feel 2 5 gallon tanks?


psi is based on your pressure switch. so whatever your pressure switch goes to, that is the psi you will have in the tank MAKE SURE YOUR COMPS WILL BE ABLE TO HANDLE THAT PSI THOUGH, your compressors life will shorten/or just plain die on your if it can not. 

As for the tank, I would just use one as you are going to be needing at least 2 compressors to fill a 5 gallon tank at a decent speed. Please to read through this entire thread for more explanations.


----------



## mwherna

foey said:


> psi is based on your pressure switch. so whatever your pressure switch goes to, that is the psi you will have in the tank MAKE SURE YOUR COMPS WILL BE ABLE TO HANDLE THAT PSI THOUGH, your compressors life will shorten/or just plain die on your if it can not.
> 
> As for the tank, I would just use one as you are going to be needing at least 2 compressors to fill a 5 gallon tank at a decent speed. Please to read through this entire thread for more explanations.


 I have another question.We installed the set up.But the front driver side will not go up unless its helped up by a jack.Also it collapses after its lowered and pressure is put on it.Could it be the lines?Theyre 3/8.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

mwherna said:


> I have another question.We installed the set up.But the front driver side will not go up unless its helped up by a jack.Also it collapses after its lowered and pressure is put on it.Could it be the lines?They're 3/8.


front takes more psi to raise, then the back.
You have a gauge on the tank??If not get one!


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

200 psi gauge, is fine.


----------



## mwherna

JOE(CAPRICE)68 said:


> 200 psi gauge, is fine.


 No gauge,but Ill get one,But why does it collapse after its lowered?I dont hear any leaks.


----------



## mwherna

Another question.I bought this set up off a friend.It only consists of 4 bags,8 valves 10 switches ,one pressure regulator and 2 5gallon tanks.He ran it off an engine compressor.It was on a 68 Impala.He had no problems getting his ride up and down.I have to put electric compressors on it.Is it because he ran it off an engine compressor?


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

It dosen't take any psi to lower it.^But takes over 110+ psi to lift it up! because of the weight of the car.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

mwherna said:


> Another question.I bought this set up off a friend.It only consists of 4 bags,8 valves 10 switches ,one pressure regulator and 2 5gallon tanks.He ran it off an engine compressor.It was on a 68 Impala.He had no problems getting his ride up and down.I have to put electric compressors on it.*Is it because he ran it off an engine compressor*?


 no, but engine comps are better, if you want it to fill faster.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

it sounds like you need to look at the pressure switch?


----------



## foey

mwherna said:


> I have another question.We installed the set up.But the front driver side will not go up unless its helped up by a jack.Also it collapses after its lowered and pressure is put on it.Could it be the lines?Theyre 3/8.


yes, but it's not because they are 3/8". there may be a pinch in the air line somewhere. make sure that the air line is free from anything that can squish/pinch/crimp the air line. Also spray some soap and water around fittings. See if there is a leak anywhere.


----------



## foey

mwherna said:


> Another question.I bought this set up off a friend.It only consists of 4 bags,8 valves 10 switches ,one pressure regulator and 2 5gallon tanks.He ran it off an engine compressor.It was on a 68 Impala.He had no problems getting his ride up and down.I have to put electric compressors on it.Is it because he ran it off an engine compressor?


 what is that pressure switch set to? is it a fixed switch or an adjustable? No, that has nothing to do with it. You may not be waiting long enough for the pressure to fill. do you wait until the compressors stop pumping? With no gauge on the tank you are either guessing what psi it has within the tank or waiting until the compressors stop pumping air.


----------



## mwherna

Thanks guys.Ill give everything a look back over and let you know what happens.


----------



## foey

mwherna said:


> Thanks guys.Ill give everything a look back over and let you know what happens.


also if possible, take a snap shot(s) of your set up that you bought. will better help us to know what you are working with (you can tell a mechanic what you hear when your vehicle is bad, but they will always need to see what your working with).


----------



## peeFpuF

Hi everyone! I'm from Moscow. And it's difficult to me to find any inromation about installing scrap plate. I want to install it to my russian replica of fiat 124
wagon '80. Can you help me with advise? Or find some info? I want to know if it's possible to mount magnesium plate specially for sparks.
Thnx n' sorry for write in wrong place.

P.S.: http://i057.radikal.ru/1108/06/74ce0a864e1b.jpg


----------



## Simplicity

@peeFpuF I think you mean Titanium. Not Magnesium. But either way. You will need to crawl under your car (safetly)
and find the lowest spot. You may need to fabricate a bracket, or use existing bolt holes to attach your block of metal.


----------



## peeFpuF

Simplicity said:


> @peeFpuF I think you mean Titanium. Not Magnesium. But either way. You will need to crawl under your car (safetly)
> and find the lowest spot. You may need to fabricate a bracket, or use existing bolt holes to attach your block of metal.


Oh thnx. But I mean exactly magnesium. I thihk it's more sparkly than titanium, not?


----------



## Simplicity

magnesium will burn very easily. Both Titanium and magnesium both give off a white sparks.


----------



## steve 67 impala

HEY,
got ton of questions, 1st : i got this installed: Digital Air Management "AutoPilot" for the last year or so.. im happy with...but can i install...with this kit a regular 10switch box and or a remote (...maybe like airbagit,) 

2nd, i run the pressure switch from the kit "autopilot" which is 175 psi..can i replace it with a adj.ps switch...or a 165/200 ?

3rd ... got 2 - 444 viar ...pushing in a 12 gl tank.. thinking to replace them with dual ob2 air zenith.... pro/cons pls


----------



## Simplicity

steve 67 impala said:


> HEY,
> got ton of questions, 1st : i got this installed: Digital Air Management "AutoPilot" for the last year or so.. im happy with...but can i install...with this kit a regular 10switch box and or a remote (...maybe like airbagit,)
> 
> 2nd, i run the pressure switch from the kit "autopilot" which is 175 psi..can i replace it with a adj.ps switch...or a 165/200 ?
> 
> 3rd ... got 2 - 444 viar ...pushing in a 12 gl tank.. thinking to replace them with dual ob2 air zenith.... pro/cons pls


1st - yes
2nd - No - thats not a pressure switch/Its a pressure sensor. The ECU shuts it off at 175
3rd - Bigger compressors are always good. The down falls will be they will pull more amps. So dont cheap out on the wiring.
All ways use quality wiring, and connectors. and you will have no issues for a bit.

Feel free to post your questions. I will be happy to help.


----------



## steve 67 impala

ok, thanks

#1..anyone got diagram 
#2 ... ok !
#3 , what do you sugest... compressor are +/- 3feet from battery.
thank you


----------



## Simplicity

#1 Steve when adding a switchbox to an auto pilot you should know the auto pilot uses a "positive ground system" Basically it sends a negative signal to the solenoid
to activate it. So any switchbox diagram will work. If you reverse it meaning on the red wire labeled +12Volt - It would be a ground. Then the other 8 wires would corespond to the appropriate valve. All wires are black on the auto pilot, so you will need a test light and go through them one by one. Hope this helps.


----------



## steve 67 impala

Great thank you ! should help...


----------



## Simplicity

I have expanded our Diagrams, info tech sheets, and manuals on our website.

Bookmark this link. I will be adding more. If you have any needs just let me know.

http://www.airassisted.ca/us/information.php?info_id=8


----------



## foey

hardline install methods? i.e. different ways to install via Swagde (sp) lock fitting, PTC method, compression, bending, measuring tut, do's and don'ts, etc.


----------



## Simplicity

foey said:


> hardline install methods? i.e. different ways to install via Swagde (sp) lock fitting, PTC method, compression, bending, measuring tut, do's and don'ts, etc.


Better yet. I asked Santa for a new HD video camera. I will do videos soon.


----------



## Simplicity

Air Zenith Information









Tech Manual download here:
http://www.airassisted.ca/us/images/diagrams/AZOB2_Manual.pdf

:thumbsup:


----------



## foey

Simplicity said:


> Better yet. I asked Santa for a new HD video camera. I will do videos soon.


:0:0:0:0:0:0:0 NOW THIS I WANNA SEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## foey

reverse 4 link - for trucks *(pertaining to use of air bellow bags)*











they say it's bad BUT it's mainly if you do a BOB (Bag on Bar) like set-up. It's FINE if you have your bags on the axle (like in the picture - Axle bracket, Behind and under, etc.), this is because not matter what, what you are using to level the vehicle adjusts at the axle which is the end point of the link system. so you won't have any pinion angle problems or pulling unless the 4 link wasn't built correctly. 

*please refer to post # 216 - http://www.layitlow.com/forums/25-air-suspensions/178059-kit-diagrams-instructions-11.html#post10655666


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

Simplicity said:


> I have expanded our Diagrams, info tech sheets, and manuals on our website.
> 
> Bookmark this link. I will be adding more. If you have any needs just let me know.
> 
> http://www.airassisted.ca/us/information.php?info_id=8


I just bought this setup and am new to air installations:

http://www.airassisted.ca/us/product_info.php?cPath=2_101&products_id=483

Can anybody tell me how the setup is layed out and gets plumbed? I need to know what fittings go to where (tank, pump, paddle valves, etc). I need a generalized layout/schematic.


----------



## REV. chuck

PLANETGETLOW said:


> I just bought this setup and am new to air installations:
> 
> http://www.airassisted.ca/us/product_info.php?cPath=2_101&products_id=483
> 
> Can anybody tell me how the setup is layed out and gets plumbed? I need to know what fittings go to where (tank, pump, paddle valves, etc). I need a generalized layout/schematic.


your getting front and back only with that 

you run 1 valve straight from the tank to a T one end of the T runs your lines the other gets the "down" valve leave it open it dumps the air


----------



## REV. chuck

this help? 90's where you need them only you can run hydraulic lines for everything


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

REV. chuck said:


> your getting front and back only with that
> 
> you run 1 valve straight from the tank to a T one end of the T runs your lines the other gets the "down" valve leave it open it dumps the air





REV. chuck said:


> this help?  90's where you need them only you can run hydraulic lines for everything


Cool, I'll get it layed out tomorrow and dry plumbed. I'll post a pic and see if it's right before I install it.

Thanks Chuck


----------



## REV. chuck

n/p are you running the air line that came with the kit? if so you should get the fast disconnect connectors the push in style they dont fuck the line all up like compression fittings do


----------



## REV. chuck

this style

http://img.directindustry.com/image...push-in-fitting-for-compressed-air-556221.jpg


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

TxGalaxie64 said:


> Tell me what yall think of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone thank this would work? any problems? suggestions?


Damn, I need a layout like this for what I'm doing.

Chuck, I have the push-in style.


----------



## REV. chuck

PLANETGETLOW said:


> Damn, I need a layout like this for what I'm doing.
> 
> Chuck, I have the push-in style.


you dont need all that i bet he plans on hopping with the dual bags and the valves on the bag. thats a complicated setup 

the water trap is a good idea between the compressor and the tank but you dont need it for the electric 

your gonna hate that electric btw check out my york vid's to understand why


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

TxGalaxie64 said:


> Tell me what yall think of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone thank this would work? any problems? suggestions?





REV. chuck said:


> you dont need all that i bet he plans on hopping with the dual bags and the valves on the bag. thats a complicated setup
> 
> the water trap is a good idea between the compressor and the tank but you dont need it for the electric
> 
> your gonna hate that electric btw check out my york vid's to understand why


I bought a York from that one dude you forwarded me too, I'm going to have it rebuilt.

I don't plan on getting that deep (as pictured), just want a schematic that covers every connection and fitting. I know, I know, I'm looking waaaay to far into this but that's just me.


----------



## REV. chuck

PLANETGETLOW said:


> I bought a York from that one dude you forwarded me too, I'm going to have it rebuilt.
> 
> I don't plan on getting that deep (as pictured), just want a schematic that covers every connection and fitting. I know, I know, I'm looking waaaay to far into this but that's just me.


massively over thinking it  id reccomend a hydrualic line from the york to the tank heat resistant and tough


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

LOL, hydraulics?? Now we're talking!!


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

Found this link and updated the first reply in this topic:

http://www.coolcars.org/tech/air/


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

I may have found the image, except I have four switches:


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

Found some more also:

http://www.jayspot.com/pages/air-ride-diagrams.html


----------



## baggedout81

PLANETGETLOW said:


> I may have found the image, except I have four switches:


Well if you have a 4 seperate switches 1 up/down for each wheel.Hope your not running nothing bigger than 3/8" air line cuz its gonna get kinda tight behind that guage pannel


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

baggedout81 said:


> Well if you have a 4 seperate switches 1 up/down for each wheel.Hope your not running nothing bigger than 3/8" air line cuz its gonna get kinda tight behind that guage pannel


Yea, I got it plumbed now and it has enough room. Not sure I like individual lift but we'll see how he likes it, if not, we'll tie them together.


----------



## baggedout81

PLANETGETLOW said:


> Yea, I got it plumbed now and it has enough room. Not sure I like individual lift but we'll see how he likes it, if not, we'll tie them together.


individual corner gives you the ability to dial in each corner if need be.Allot of guys have talked about body roll from running "T'd" air set ups.But unless your building a G machine its not a huge deal


----------



## impalagy67

Does anyone have advice on this i'd appreciate it, here goes I have a 77 chvy 2wd blazer with front and back 2 viair 400's & 3 3 gl tanks, in the rear I have a four link w/panhard bar and mini c notch, my question is that I just popped a rear bag the type of bag is a Firestone 9002 sleeve style. the upper bag bracket is placed on the outer side of the frame and the lower bag bracket is placed towards the rear of the axle so the bag is situated between the frame brake dust cover, i've been told those are not the best type of bags in that position, can I replace it with a normal style bag without any repositioning of my brackets? or should I just stay with what I got?


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

pic^^


----------



## Junior LOC

uffin:


----------



## baggedout81

Some York info.We need to get a York thread pinned.Being every couple weeks it gets brought up
http://www.164club.org/service/york.pdf


----------



## foey

york/sanden imo but yeah. it's hard sifting through all this at times.


----------



## JThw8

Hi all, my apologies in advance if this is the wrong place to post this, please feel free to move if needed. But this seems like where the questions get answers.

I've spent a good bit of time lurking around here and reading (as you can see by the 2008 join date and low post count, I lurk too much) and I appreciate all the great info. I feel I have a pretty good handle on the plumbing side of things to get what I want out of this car. I generally understand what is needed to mount the bags and I'm certainly not afraid of fabrication work so I feel confident I can do it, but I guess where my questions lie is how do you determine the size (height) of the cups you want to use? I know its a factor of how high or low you want the car to be aired up or down, but are there some basic rules of thumb to get a ballpark idea of cup size. Measure at stock height, measure at full droop and measure at full compression (no spring) and do some math magic from there or ??? I'd love to avoid cutting the spring pocket but I don't think I can. Basically I'd like this to all be reversible as possible in case I want to go back to stock later. I'm not looking for a ground scraper or a hopper, just to get it lower but maintain adjust ability for when conditions warrant it.

And for something completely different my starting point is a 1968 Toyota Crown station wagon.









Size wise its about the same as a 60s Ford Falcon for a reference point. Straight 6 engine with a 4 speed. Rear suspension is trailing arms and coils, front is typical a-arm and spring pocket.









Oh, and I'm starting with a set of Helix HEXAB1 bags they are a 1/2" single port bag, haven't found too much else about them yet. A buddy of mine had them still new in box from a project he sold off so they were a starting point. The info I have on them is:
1/2 Single Port Air Bag 2500Lbs
Height 4.68" - 6.89"
Usable Stoke 6.2"
Load Rating 2500lbs
Max PSI 602psi
Minimum Compressed 2.8"
Max Extended 8.25"
Diameter 6.25"


----------



## baggedout81

Well from the above pic posted.The upper A-arm is at full cycle locked up,this is w/o doing modification to the frame an upper control arm.So that picture is as far as you can go (well in your case w/o cutting). Now you can trim down the bumpstop down or get rid of it all together (but allot of guys just trim) then that would be your "full drop".From there take a tape measure an measure from where the top of the spring sits in the factory spring pocket then measure down to where ever you fell confortable of not cutting.Then the lower bag bracket is again like you said kinda up to you on how mutch drop you want.Just make sure the cup is angled a bit


----------



## JThw8

baggedout81 said:


> Well from the above pic posted.The upper A-arm is at full cycle locked up,this is w/o doing modification to the frame an upper control arm.So that picture is as far as you can go (well in your case w/o cutting). Now you can trim down the bumpstop down or get rid of it all together (but allot of guys just trim) then that would be your "full drop".From there take a tape measure an measure from where the top of the spring sits in the factory spring pocket then measure down to where ever you fell confortable of not cutting.Then the lower bag bracket is again like you said kinda up to you on how mutch drop you want.Just make sure the cup is angled a bit


Thanks! I think it's making sense. Like I said I'm not necessarily looking to lay frame with this old girl so if taller cups keep me from cutting too much then that would be ok. Unfortunately the car has been down at my buddies house in VA until I can pick it up so I'm working on whatever photos I can get from him right now for design purposes. I think once I can lay hands on it it will all make better sense.


----------



## foey

JThw8 said:


> Thanks! I think it's making sense. Like I said I'm not necessarily looking to lay frame with this old girl so if taller cups keep me from cutting too much then that would be ok. Unfortunately the car has been down at my buddies house in VA until I can pick it up so I'm working on whatever photos I can get from him right now for design purposes. I think once I can lay hands on it it will all make better sense.


hands on usually helps more imo. in your case since your just using the bags for adjustments (example if it doesn't fit, you won't MAKE it fit lol), you should be fine. About your bag, Helix carries products that are/close to what AIM industries carries (I strongly suggest you purchase products in which have been reputably reliable for many yrs. for the rest of the air management system). Other than that the install should be straight forward on where parts will be going/replacing (it's really just the bag placement, the air management placement is up to the installer - tanks, valves, etc.). GL and post up pictures when you can.


----------



## JThw8

foey said:


> hands on usually helps more imo. in your case since your just using the bags for adjustments (example if it doesn't fit, you won't MAKE it fit lol), you should be fine. About your bag, Helix carries products that are/close to what AIM industries carries (I strongly suggest you purchase products in which have been reputably reliable for many yrs. for the rest of the air management system). Other than that the install should be straight forward on where parts will be going/replacing (it's really just the bag placement, the air management placement is up to the installer - tanks, valves, etc.). GL and post up pictures when you can.


Thanks for the info. I'll admit I was/am a bit skeptical about the helix bags since there is no info out there on them. But ya can't beat the price so I figure they will at least be good enough for setup and testing and I can/will upgrade them later as needed. This whole thing is just a testbed/learning project leading up to my next one. Its a bit of an old oddball that I have heavily customized. I used her for racing for awhile but the next phase is converting it back into a cruiser. That setup will be a bit more complex from a mounting standpoint since the front suspension is macphearson struts and the rear is a torsion arm setup. I'm pretty sure I know how I want to tackle it but this "simple" project will be a better learning experience.

My oddball.


----------



## baggedout81

I would's even bother w/ them helix or anything that AIM sells.Hell for the price AIR LIFT DOMINATORS you just can beat.Theve been proven time an time again


----------



## Payazo.Funk

this is my first real post since like 09 and ive read most of this thread and ive gotten a lot of good advice as to what i need to get started. im mostly convinced to put airbags on my 68 caprice cause i dont want to hop it too hard and mess something up on my ride, plus i want to keep my 'price floating like a cloud! ive been hunting around online for deals and kits and am getting good ideas on what to get. the coolcars.org kits got me thinking since its complete, for the most part i beleive, but i found this partial set on ebay by viair and want to know if its a good deal cause it looks pretty good as far as i know http://www.ebay.com/itm/20070044046...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3304wt_953 heres a few pics of my '68


----------



## Payazo.Funk

i do also though want to dance it a little, maybe im asking too much??:dunno:


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

Payazo.Funk said:


> i do also though want to dance it a little, maybe im asking too much??:dunno:


no your not.I dance with my bottle, cruze with my comps,also lol,I know I need to finish my edc rv2 setup...Cars been down though.


----------



## Payazo.Funk

JOE(CAPRICE)68 said:


> no your not.I dance with my bottle, cruze with my comps,also lol,I know I need to finish my edc rv2 setup...Cars been down though.


what you mean by danced with bottle? at first i thought like dancing with a beer in hand but then i remembered people posting about nitro. how does running on nitro work? what are the pros and cons?


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

Payazo.Funk said:


> what you mean by danced with bottle? at first i thought like dancing with a beer in hand but then i remembered people posting about nitro. how does running on nitro work? what are the pros and cons?


The only con is you have to refill the bottle.It cost me $28 to fill my k size bottle.It last me 3-4 weeks, because sometimes I just use my comp, and some days, I'm like fuck it and run the bottle when I know I'm going to be hitting them, and acting a fool with my 68.

the pros of a bottle is, you really have no waiting time hitting the switches. You can really just keep hitting them like hydros.Well till you empty the bottle.

there are days when I want to acted a fool, and just hit them for kids on my block or big wheel cars.


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68

When I did the Christmas parade It took me 20 mins to use my bottle full bottle, but I was hitting them non stop!lol the hydro guys where just going up and down, and not hitting them.:thumbsdown:


----------



## JOE(CAPRICE)68




----------



## foey

JOE(CAPRICE)68 said:


>


----------



## demoone

Would this work for a 95 deville?


----------



## Rdawg146

JOE(CAPRICE)68 said:


> When I did the Christmas parade It took me 20 mins to use my bottle full bottle, but I was hitting them non stop!lol the hydro guys where just going up and down, and not hitting them.:thumbsdown:


love it, i was in the Cinco de Mayo Parade, same thing i was hitting my switches more than the hydro guys gas hopping and 3-wheeling the whole parade, playing "lowrider" from war the whole way on a loop. LOL









you should seen the reactions on peoples faces when "heard" my car on air!!!!!!!!!!!:around::worship::thumbsup::facepalm:


----------



## peeFpuF

HI, people.
Now i'll write a lot of.
I've got a russian replica of fiat 124 wagon. 







And I want to make it on air suspension. The problem is that here in Moscow there are no air shops. So I listed ebay and find some things.
I need an advice to make good fast set for this car. (It's 1000kg weight, rear drive)
I decided to make "fbss" with this:
5 gallon tank (i got it here) 5 ports;
8 valves from this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120864639282?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
4 bags Rubena 130/2 max pressure 5 bar (is it enought???)







Compessor (75 l/min) I'll buy here;
Pressure switch smthng like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRESSURE-SW...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c22c5d807
Brackets I'll make by my own;
Air gauges i'll buy here.

Here what i've got. 
Lines and fitting i can buy on ebay too.
About other I want to hear advice from u.
Is this set wrong? 
Are this valves good enought?
What I've missed?
May be you tell me more cheeper place to buy??? 
Is my english too bad? =)

Thx for all you =) 
Privet from Moscow.


----------



## L1ncr1d3r

I need some answers I just got 2-3800 bags for the front from airbagit.com and those spring pocket eliminators and I Don't know if they'll fit in my 2001 town car cause cutting and welding that big ass piece of metal will it make my frame weak that say it will make the frame stronger any opinions our feedback will help


----------



## foey

L1ncr1d3r said:


> I need some answers I just got 2-3800 bags for the front from airbagit.com and those spring pocket eliminators and I Don't know if they'll fit in my 2001 town car cause cutting and welding that big ass piece of metal will it make my frame weak that say it will make the frame stronger any opinions our feedback will help


sorry to say but I doubt the bags will fit anyways. It's always best to do research before purchasing ANYTHING especially from Airbagit. If you are unable to do anything with the parts via selling or just using them, take it as a lesson and start reading this thread from start to finish to get a better idea of what you will need and can use to bag your ride.


----------



## BIG D-ROC

foey said:


> sorry to say but I doubt the bags will fit anyways. It's always best to do research before purchasing ANYTHING especially from Airbagit. If you are unable to do anything with the parts via selling or just using them, take it as a lesson and start reading this thread from start to finish to get a better idea of what you will need and can use to bag your ride.


*You guys are awesome....This is the most informative thread I've read....Great advice,and it beats learning everything the hard way!:thumbsup::thumbsup:*


----------



## ars!n

BIG D-ROC said:


> *You guys are awesome....This is the most informative thread I've read....Great advice,and it beats learning everything the hard way!:thumbsup::thumbsup:*


x200000


----------



## BIG D-ROC

*One quick question.....hope this is the right place to ask, but what kinda life(age wise) are you guys geting out of your bags? Ive never kept one very long after baggin it.....My cadillac has been bagged for about 4 years now..2600's in the front and rolling sleeve in the rear(Firestone). on compressors.... Not having any problems,not showing any age,just thinking it might be time:dunno:*


----------



## baggedout81

Cool topic w/ picson how to "tap" your own T fitting to run a smaller line to guages.Save a few bucks do it yourself
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/let-me-tap-that-a-tee-495718/


----------



## classic68impala

*diagram*

Does any one have a diagram on how to plumb all my hoses and valves


----------



## foey

BIG D-ROC said:


> *One quick question.....hope this is the right place to ask, but what kinda life(age wise) are you guys geting out of your bags? Ive never kept one very long after baggin it.....My cadillac has been bagged for about 4 years now..2600's in the front and rolling sleeve in the rear(Firestone). on compressors.... Not having any problems,not showing any age,just thinking it might be time:dunno:*


for bags, always look for sign of rubbing, threads showing and esp. dry rot. as for the rest of the system it's up the installer, user and overall environment elements subjected to the system during it's install.


----------



## foey

classic68impala said:


> Does any one have a diagram on how to plumb all my hoses and valves


plumbing your valves and running your air lines is up to the installer. you have a variable of choices on how to go about it but keep in mind that you MUST ALWAYS have a fill and dump valve - inlet/outlet. Air line MUST always be cut properly (DO NOT just cut away, BOTH ends MUST be as flush as possible), free from heat, avoid pinching, and major road elements that may damage it (assuming you are using DOT airline in your install). You don't have to use airline, you can also you hydraulic hoses, copper or ss lines, and/or steal braided lines. To get the basic 8 valve plumb, just see the first page of this thread to get an idea of what goes where and what does what, then if you understand it enough, you can fiddle with the arrangements.


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## gza808

i notice on the diagram on page one mentioning about installing a switch front ignition to relay/pressure switch. i know i need a rocker switch, but how many amps? currently i used those add a circuit to my fuse panel off the cigarette lighter fuse rated at 15 amps and my add a circuit is 10 amps..basically running a manual management system with a 400C compressor..

thanks


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## Simplicity

gza808 said:


> i notice on the diagram on page one mentioning about installing a switch front ignition to relay/pressure switch. i know i need a rocker switch, but how many amps? currently i used those add a circuit to my fuse panel off the cigarette lighter fuse rated at 15 amps and my add a circuit is 10 amps..basically running a manual management system with a 400C compressor..
> 
> thanks


That fine..... 5-10 is all it takes.


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## gza808

alright...thanks man...time to go to radio shack...


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## naptownbrown

Can someone help me My car has a air leak at the controls i changed a fitting in at the controls and a fitting on the tank even tighten all fittings still air leaks lowering the rear driver side i did the soap&water and tighten but still i hear air leaking at the control what do i need to do whats My next step?


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

naptownbrown said:


> Can someone help me My car has a air leak at the controls i changed a fitting in at the controls and a fitting on the tank even tighten all fittings still air leaks lowering the rear driver side i did the soap&water and tighten but still i hear air leaking at the control what do i need to do whats My next step?


redo again.Some times it can take time to really get it leak free. 

what are controls too??Valves?

Pics will help too.


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## naptownbrown

JOE(CAPRICE)68 said:


> redo again.Some times it can take time to really get it leak free.
> 
> what are controls too??Valves?
> 
> Pics will help too.


 ok will do its crazy trying to pinpoint the problem no pic computer down but when i lift i hear air rushing out at the switch going to replace the fitting for rear and see if that dont do it ill be back for more help thanks


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## Cruising Ink

i needed some help please, i have two compressers and two tanks with eight valves i believe everything is connected because what ive been doing to turn it on and to pick up the car is connect a cable from a solenoid and a cable from the switches which i think is the power to a positive terminal on a battery charger then it works well what i want to do is connect it to the battery with a rocker switch and fuse i basically want to eliminate the ignition switch is this possible and any diagram? thanks for the help in advance


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## caprice on dz

phatz said:


> *Complete Plumbing Instructions*: http://www.coolcars.org/tech/air/
> 
> ==========================================================


 what is the fitting called between the two valves that looks like a plus sign?


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## Simplicity

A cross.


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## foey

lowerdimension63 said:


> i needed some help please, i have two compressers and two tanks with eight valves i believe everything is connected because what ive been doing to turn it on and to pick up the car is connect a cable from a solenoid and a cable from the switches which i think is the power to a positive terminal on a battery charger then it works well what i want to do is connect it to the battery with a rocker switch and fuse i basically want to eliminate the ignition switch is this possible and any diagram? thanks for the help in advance












like this but instead of the ignition, wire it to the battery or a 12v power source.


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## Cruising Ink

Thanks let me try and see what happens


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## caprice on dz

is it necessary to run a line from the valves to an air gauge in the car?


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## Simplicity

Yes, if its analog. If you dont want to consider AZ's Digital gauge Availbale in black or white. Uses a sending unit. Single pressure only.
http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/air-management/gauge-digital/Air-Zenith-Digital-Gauge


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## caprice on dz

I think I worded that wrong. What ai meant was do you have to have air gauges inside the car


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## Simplicity

caprice on dz said:


> I think I worded that wrong. What ai meant was do you have to have air gauges inside the car


You don't "have" to... But it does help.


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## caprice on dz

Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to this.

with two compressors and a multiport tank do I need two watertraps? Would I run a compressor into either end of the tank with a trap per compressor or TEE to two compressors into one trap?

Does the tank gauge have to mounted on the tank or can it be mounted in the console with the bag gauges?


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## naptownbrown

can someone tell how to hook up three comp and two tanks for a nice and clean setup


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## ernie

does anybody have a switch diagram for front back side to side?


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## Simplicity

Ernie, how many switches?


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## Simplicity




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## Simplicity




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## ernie

just 4 with 6 prong


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## Pacman310

8 valves - f.b.s.s.


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## joecase

So first time post - don't kill me if I get this wrong - but just looking at all these cups in the upper control arm of the suspension, do the cups just rest inside the cavity or do they have to be welded in like the bottom plate? I might be missing something - like maybe you can reach into where the cup goes with a long socket to bolt in the bag?


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## Simplicity

joecase said:


> So first time post - don't kill me if I get this wrong - but just looking at all these cups in the upper control arm of the suspension, do the cups just rest inside the cavity or do they have to be welded in like the bottom plate? I might be missing something - like maybe you can reach into where the cup goes with a long socket to bolt in the bag?


On most coil spring cars, there is threaded rod, or a long bolt that holds it in using the factory shock upper bolt hole....


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## angelc09

Pacman310 said:


> View attachment 655205
> 
> 
> 8 valves - f.b.s.s.


I'm trying to find a good deal on an air bags for my 99 Cadillac Deville. I'm new to this site so I'm not sure wer to start. Thanks


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## JOE(CAPRICE)68

^^^^^^^^^^^^^hit up simplicity^^ or call A.A.C


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## djflizo69

Pacman310 said:


> View attachment 655205
> 
> 8 valves - f.b.s.s.


Hey Pacman310......are the up valves on the bottom? Im trying to do f.b.s.s with eight valves. I also have 4 6 prong switches and want to wire them up but i'm not to sure on your diagram......can you please help?


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## Simplicity

Here is the recommended diagram for running a AZ Compressor with Airlift Companies popular V2 AutoPilot System.


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## Jahlg

I want to go from 10 switches to four. No need for all ten. Can I use the switches I already have? I am going to make a new box for the switches.


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## Simplicity

Yes, you can. Are you just wanting to have one up/down per wheel? Use the 4 3 prong switches and wire like this.


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## Jahlg

Perfect thanks! Going to put the switches into a skull! Not a real one of course.


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## 67ImpalaSS-408

Thank you for posting all the diagrams I just finished installing the bags in my 67 Impala, my question is about the relocating the front shocks. Where can I buy the brackets to relocate the front shocks and do they have to be welded?
Thanks.

Eddie


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## Simplicity

67ImpalaSS-408 said:


> Thank you for posting all the diagrams I just finished installing the bags in my 67 Impala, my question is about the relocating the front shocks. Where can I buy the brackets to relocate the front shocks and do they have to be welded?
> Thanks.
> 
> Eddie


More often they are weld on. The weldable ones are made of 1/4 plate and last. Bolt on versions I have seen are susceptible to snapping between the bolt holes.
http://www.airassisted.ca/u2/front-shock-relocator-kit.html


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## Pacman310

djflizo69 said:


> Hey Pacman310......are the up valves on the bottom? Im trying to do f.b.s.s with eight valves. I also have 4 6 prong switches and want to wire them up but i'm not to sure on your diagram......can you please help?


Yes u r correct. My bad been a while since I've checked this site.


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## PLANETGETLOW

I need a plumbing diagram for a 2 tank, 2 compressor setup


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## SAIDOG

Thank you, finally someone has stated how the top cups bolt in : When you are experienced, it would be taken for granted that people know this. I was wondering how you get your hand in there... However if it is bolting to the rear shock hole you can access it from the boot by pulling out the carpet etc..


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