# Single stage paint...



## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Anyone have experience with that? I want to try it out on the current project. I want to get a super wet look. Oh....and the single stage paint will be brand new too...I'm not just doing over a factory paint. :twak:


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## EazyE10286 (Sep 11, 2003)

You have to shoot it like its clear...without clear it still looks excellent.SS looks best in solid colors(black,red,yellow,blue)


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## caddeville (Jan 24, 2006)

Single stage is better if you want a wet look after polishing. But the filler, putty, primer has to sanded finer than usual so you don't get sratch/sink marks. It polishes VERY easy!


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Good info guys....but what I want to do it spray a single stage solid color then go back and wetsand it. Then spray 3-4 coats of clear over that!!! Then cut and buff the clear. I want it super deep. 

Think that would be a problem?


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## 59Impala (Oct 13, 2004)

not a problem, as long as you sand it first, it will take the clear nicely. I would let it bake it the sun as long as possible first, I have had issues once doing it out of 10. I think the single stage was too fresh, made a mess.


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Coooolll!!!! :thumbsup:


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

just get the single stage clear, and sand it good and it should be aight


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## FWDFleetwood (Jul 31, 2006)

I usually get a nice shine when the bodywork is sanded to 500 dry, then sand the primer no lower than 600 wet. That usually takes care of the FLA too.


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## fleetwoodmack (Apr 29, 2004)

> _Originally posted by FWDFleetwood_@Oct 20 2006, 03:31 PM~6409737
> *I usually get a nice shine when the bodywork is sanded to 500 dry, then sand the primer no lower than 600 wet.  That usually takes care of the FLA too.
> *


YOU sand body work with 500?


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## fleetwoodmack (Apr 29, 2004)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Oct 20 2006, 11:11 AM~6407971
> *Anyone have experience with that?  I want to try it out on the current project.  I want to get a super wet look.  Oh....and the single stage paint will be brand new too...I'm not just doing over a factory paint. :twak:
> *


why not just use urethane bs/cc?use a catalyzed bc and get the same result without the heavy overspray and awful smell :barf:


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## FWDFleetwood (Jul 31, 2006)

> _Originally posted by fleetwoodmack_@Oct 21 2006, 12:07 AM~6412102
> *YOU sand body work with 500?
> *


Yeah, probably redundant, but I find it easier to not get pinholes.


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## SUPREME69 (Feb 9, 2006)

IF YOUR GONNA SPRAY CLEAR OVER THE SINGLE STAGE WHY NOT JUST USE BASE COAT. MOST SYSTEMS IVE USED RUN THE SAME FOR BC/CC AND SINGLE STAGE. IN SOME CASES THE SINGLE STAGE WAS MORE. YOU CAN GET A DEEP WET LOOK WITH BC/CC IF YOU CLEAR YOUR CAR THEN WET SAND IT AND RESHOOT 3-4 MORE COATS OF CLEAR THEN CUT AND POLISH. BUT THATS JUST MY 2 PENNIES.


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## STREET SWEEPAZ (Feb 7, 2003)

> _Originally posted by SUPREME69_@Oct 21 2006, 12:18 AM~6412679
> *IF YOUR GONNA SPRAY CLEAR OVER THE SINGLE STAGE WHY NOT JUST USE BASE COAT. MOST SYSTEMS IVE USED RUN THE SAME FOR BC/CC AND SINGLE STAGE. IN SOME CASES THE SINGLE STAGE WAS MORE. YOU CAN GET A DEEP WET LOOK WITH BC/CC IF YOU CLEAR YOUR CAR THEN WET SAND IT AND RESHOOT 3-4 MORE COATS OF CLEAR THEN CUT AND POLISH. BUT THATS JUST MY 2 PENNIES.
> *




I was thinkin the same..... that alot of meticulous time spent sanding the single stage good enough for teh clear to bite onto................

Never has a single stage provided more depth ..... Thats why no one really uses it unless its a single color for implement applications & mainly for things that dont need a superior looking finish........

My 3 cents


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## show-bound (Apr 5, 2004)

to mee the bc/cc blacks look brown...with poor coverage.

with spot lights on it car looks like dirty oil....just my opinion


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

I have done and been involved in plenty bc/cc jobs. And they come out super wet. But in a bc/cc the base coat is flat....no depth at all. All of your depth comes strickly from the clear. I want to incorporate the depth of a single stage paint with the depth of a clear. Hopefully a double whammy! :dunno:


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I saw a V12 Mercedes that was done the very way you desire, It looks more wet and more deep and extremely black...It was single stage black with wetsand and clear over top....Shiny enough to put a eye out.....Had that afraid to touch super expensive look to it.

I just bought Dupont Single stage Centari "Pitch Black" for my 74' Monte....Might end up clearing it too....Only if I get talked into it.


I hate bc/cc Black....IT LOOKS GREY,BROWN,CLOUDY ETC. And the more small hairline scratches it gets the worse it looks. Single stage truly looks black and deep. Delstar and Centari both look awesome in black.


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## superdodge2196 (May 21, 2006)

you shouldn't have to sand the single stage. just wait for the flash time and start with the clear coat. why not just start with the bc color you want then use a little tint in the first couple coats of clear. sort of like a candy but less dramatic. it should give you nice depth.


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

The reason I want to sand the single stage down before clear is because I want to do some flake stripes on the car.  I will use intercoat for the flake and then bury it in the clear so there are no lines. :cheesy:


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

I'm doing just that, clearing over single stage polurethane.
No sanding needed, just spray the color and wait till the next day
to spray the clear. That way you don't risk sanding into the flake and messing
it up
Why use it instead of basecoat? Because I can get a gallon of orange
with hardener for under $100.00. Basecoat can cost 7 times that.

This is before the clear, if I didn't want to cut and buff I'd stop here.
It's definetly slick enough all by itself.


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## streetking (Feb 4, 2004)

Just a quick ???? whats the mix ratio of a single stage paint? For instance lets say some centari single stage black


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

My single stage is a polyurethane, it comes in a gallon can with only
3 quarts of paint, leaving room for 1 qt of activator. So it's 4:1 mix.
It needs no reducer and sporays fine once mixed.
I think acrylic enamel is 1 pint activator per gallon of paint, but
I can't remember for sure.
I would never use enamel if I had urethane available, they're close in cost
and the urethane is far superior to enamel.
Unlike enamel, the urethane gets rock hard quickly and is hard to scratch.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by jcclark_@Oct 23 2006, 10:53 AM~6425450
> *I'm doing just that, clearing over single stage polurethane.
> No sanding needed, just spray the color and wait till the next day
> to spray the clear. That way you don't risk sanding into the flake and messing
> ...



I don't know were you are getting your base colors but they are ripping you off. All you need from primer, base, clear and all hardners and reducers only costs around $300-$400 if buying nason or omni

all metalics should be done using bc/cc
there is no need to clear a solid colored single stage... you get a better gloss by cutting and buffing the ss then you would if you cleared then cut and buffed.


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## Mi Estilo CC (Dec 8, 2004)

> _Originally posted by jcclark_@Oct 23 2006, 10:53 AM~6425450
> *I'm doing just that, clearing over single stage polurethane.
> No sanding needed, just spray the color and wait till the next day
> to spray the clear. That way you don't risk sanding into the flake and messing
> ...



I don't know were you are getting your base colors but they are ripping you off. All you need from primer, base, clear and all hardners and reducers only costs around $300-$400 if buying nason or omni

all metalics should be done using bc/cc
there is no need to clear a solid colored single stage... you get a better gloss by cutting and buffing the ss then you would if you cleared then cut and buffed.


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## Threadjacker (Sep 18, 2006)

Hey JC, that bumper looks nice and smooth...mmmm......._some day....some day...._
That looks like a nice* Mayan Gold Metallic or a Bright Orange Metallic.*
BTW, where did you get the paint from? Sounds like a good price, and looks like good quality! :cheesy:


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

I guess I am going to see fellas probably within a couple weeks. :cheesy:


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

> _Originally posted by superdodge2196_@Oct 23 2006, 12:34 PM~6425075
> *you shouldn't have to sand the single stage.  just wait for the flash time and start with the clear coat.  why not just start with the bc color you want then use a little tint in the first couple coats of clear.  sort of like a candy but less dramatic.  it should give you  nice depth.
> *


yeah good point i was gonna make but you beat me / there is no reason what so ever to ever sand the paint, only the clear to cut and buff


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## BRAVO (Jan 4, 2002)

id be affraid of cutting the metalic, when sanding a single stage

ive cleared over single stage (to add flake),,,but no cutting, just let the base flash


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

non metallic base. :dunno:


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Oct 26 2006, 01:04 AM~6446098
> *non metallic base. :dunno:
> *


is it a hot fire base???? :biggrin:


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

The paint I used was from Smart Shoppers, A urethane by Kirker called
Bright Orange.
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Kirker/acr...-urethanes.html

The picture is before the clear coat, the only reason I added clear the next
day is because I plan on sanding and buffing.
I have buffed out a lot of single stage paints over the years and some colors,
especially blues, can create big problems when color sanding, once you sand
the top clear layer off and expose the pigment, the paint won't hold the 
gloss and sometimes create "rings" in the colors. After having to repaint one
once I will never buff one out again without clearing.
The clear also adds extra UV protection. 

The cheapest base coat in orange I could find was over $200.00
a gallon. With the way I'm painting everything on this car a different color
I will need more than 1 gallon.
I really think the single stage paint has more color depth than basecoat.
It just looks more intense, as far as the finish, or slickness, that's
what the clear coat is for and can be the same as any base/clear job.
I used the same urethane (in white) on my aluminum fishing boat and
am really impressed at how durable it is. I rub up against stuff all the time
and this paint is really hard to scratch. I've hit concrete with it and had no
scratches. It's really strong stuff.
I have been using basecoat for 15 yrs on all my collision repair and don't
see any advantage to using it on my car that I'm painting a complete
all-over with a different non-factory color.


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by impala_631_@Oct 26 2006, 05:52 AM~6447041
> *is it a hot fire base???? :biggrin:
> *


Nope!! :cheesy: Wesley Snipes style!!!!


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

8-2-1 ratio....lets say.... 16oz. paint, to 4oz. reducer, to 2oz. gloss hardener. for the black Centari.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I am not sure but I feel like the gloss hardener is almost like a integrated clear coat...I use the Centari good stuff...But alot of people use the much cheaper Nason in the AE paint to save money but it shows...
Its only $20 more for the good gloss hardener and I really think it makes a big difference. The two employees got into a argument over it when I bought my paint...They eventually settled that the Centari is better than the nason for gloss and durability. I have B/C on my 69' firebird and I think its more easily chipped than the Centari AE single stage....Of course I didn't spray my Firebird...Who knows the sins committed by the shop that sprayed it....I bought the paint but didn't shoot it. I should have though, cuz it turned out like shit.


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

All that ss you're refering too is acrylic enamel.
Use polyurethane instead and you won't ever use enamel again.
Sets up rock hard and really hard to scratch.
It can be polished in 4 hrs.
It's costs about the same.
I won't ever use acrylic enamel again, the urethane is so much better.


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## 64_EC_STYLE (Feb 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by streetking_@Oct 23 2006, 01:21 PM~6425608
> *Just  a quick ????  whats the mix ratio of a single stage paint? For instance lets say some centari single stage black
> *


didn't paints have different ones....i've personally only used martin senior paints from napa the crossfire brand and it looks wet with enough coats.....the mixing ratio for the crossfire singlestage is 8-4-1


my question is what grit do i sand the single stage down with before i clear??
and do i wet sand or dry sand?? sorry if its a newbie ?


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I am told to use #1500 paper wet. Then you can buff after that....I would use #1000 in order to clear coat for better adhesion, Then clear, then sand it again and buff.
Just wait overnight for the single stage to cure if its Poly. longer like a week if its Acrylic. Then continue...It seems to me like AE takes alot longer to dry. 

I had a truck painted 95' Dodge viper red AE and it reeked of paint for a week solid even in pretty hot summer temps. The orange peel even laid down after a week all on its own....It never even needed sanded or buffed at all. That truck looked almost show quality for 3 years till I sold it....Once its painted and dry I have a hard time telling from cheap paint to good paint if its laid down right. Most people on the street cant even tell the difference between good and bad paint jobs...I couldn't either till someone ruined it for me a couple years ago...Ignorance is bliss sometimes.


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## HAITIAN-305-HOPPER (Dec 22, 2005)

GOOD TOPIC GOOD INFO!!!!!!


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## Guest (Oct 27, 2006)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Oct 23 2006, 11:57 AM~6424851
> *I saw a V12 Mercedes that was done the very way you desire, It looks more wet and more deep and extremely black...It was single stage black with wetsand and clear over top....Shiny enough to put a eye out.....Had that afraid to touch super expensive look to it.
> 
> I just bought Dupont Single stage Centari "Pitch Black" for my 74' Monte....Might end up clearing it too....Only if I get talked into it.
> ...


Your right single stage black ALWAYS looks better than bc/cc. Even solid reds and blues are alot deeper looking and have alot more shine than bc/cc.


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Oct 26 2006, 10:55 AM~6447759
> *Nope!!  :cheesy:  Wesley Snipes style!!!!
> *


ewwww, now thats dark :biggrin:


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by impala_631_@Oct 27 2006, 06:22 AM~6454924
> *ewwww, now thats dark :biggrin:
> *



Darkest on the planet!!!!!!!!! :0 :cheesy:


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## Threadjacker (Sep 18, 2006)

Thanks for the info, JcClark.
Don't let the trolls on the other forum put down your choice of paint.


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## SUNNYD (Dec 14, 2005)

> _Originally posted by TATTOO-76_@Oct 27 2006, 12:34 AM~6454691
> *Your right single stage black ALWAYS looks better than bc/cc. Even solid reds and blues are alot deeper looking and have alot more shine than bc/cc.
> *


so so true,,,single stage is def the way to go on solid colors,, this F-100 had one of the deepest and shiniest paint jobs i had ever seen ,, just beautiful.... its a straight catalyzed urethane with no clear coat over it....wow


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

So Nice....Really makes me want to get my car done!


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## HAITIAN-305-HOPPER (Dec 22, 2005)

THATS FUCKIN CLEAN


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## regal ryda (Nov 21, 2005)

If you gaonna do the single stage and want wet wet, spray color then let it flash 15 mins, then come back and clear bake the finish come back wet sand and re clear...just my opinon.


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## SWITCHCRAFT (Jan 13, 2002)

this is cleared....it's kirker black.........

unfortunately i didn't get a good closeup of the whole car though because i am sick of looking at it because it is leaking a fluid underneath now :uh:


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## SUNNYD (Dec 14, 2005)

menace 59 done in acrylic urethane by the de'albas (no clear coat resin over it)

its got that mile deep deepth too it


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

WOW that's nice!....Once again I cant wait to get mine done.....


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## Threadjacker (Sep 18, 2006)

You guys are lucky you live in sunny L.A.!
I'm over here on the East coast [Md], and my painting days are over for now since I'm doing it in my backyard.
I'll have to wait until late February to even think about doing more paint/bodywork.
:angry:


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

For single stage I like the chromapremier eurathane, its way better than there centari brand, but more expensive, covers in 2 coats, looks wet as hell and polishes awesome, if planning on wetsanding i'd put on a couple extra coats though.


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Threadjacker_@Oct 29 2006, 02:12 PM~6467386
> *Don't let the trolls on the other forum put down your choice of paint.
> *


Thanks for that, and believe me, I will try different things and see for myself.
I'm not one to go along with the crowd.
Everyone that knows me knows I'm not a Kirker fan but I think 
their urethane is pretty good. I'm definetly going to test it on my current
project. So we'll see just how well it does.


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## Threadjacker (Sep 18, 2006)

Best of both worlds


> *Everyone that knows me knows I'm not a Kirker fan but I think *


I'm thinking if someone has a daily driver and wants to repaint it to make look better, yet wants to keep the cost down, why not use the less expensive Kirker products for the undercoats such as epoxy, 2K surfacer, and urethane color, and then top coat it with a better quality $
 hi solids clear for the UV protection and durability?
You could use Dupont, PPG, Sherin Williams, BASF, Spie-Hecker, House of Color, Valspar, Martin-Senour, ....am I missing any?......I guess not. That's all of them.
The high quality clearcoat will protect the poor  kirker color [base] coat from the elements so it wont fade, etc..


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

I painted my aluminum boat with Kirker urethane.
That stuff is the hardest stuff to scratch that I've ever seen.
No basecoat is that durable, none. (It needs the clear.)
I have brushed up against concrete and not scratched it .
Kirker may be low quality on some of their products but their
urethane is definetly not poor quality. 
My boat is a solid white, my car is going to be metallic so we'll
see if color holdout is the same.
It sure does spray nice.


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## Threadjacker (Sep 18, 2006)

Jc, would you say Kirker is much thinner than other more expensive paint?
I've sprayed the urethane paint on panel of my car, and I can easily see sand scratches. Even though I tried to work my way up to #400 grit paper, I can still see deep scratches that look like #220. Some people say hi dollar paint should cover #320 easily.
On the first panel I repaired, I had even deeper scratches--must have been some light #80 I thought would be hidden, but were not. I thoroughly wet sanded with #600 grit and sprayed one more coat, and now it is as smooth as glass.


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

Yes, I would say it is thinner, but I haven't sprayed anybody elses urethane
to compare it to. The white I used on my boat was like water but the 
bright orange metallic I'm putting on my car now seems much better 
so it may vary with the color, I don't know.
I use DuPont basecoat for all my collision repairs and the colors vary a lot
as far as coverage. Some are like water and don't cover, others cover quickly.
The urethane I've been using requires no thinning, so I don't thin it, just
add the hardener and spray. It's still pretty thin.
I have been using 400 wet and haven't seen scratches so far.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

Alot of sand scratches show because of laquer used underneath in primers that shrink.....I've seen it with the best of paints....Go to DuPonts website and look up their paints....They have technical info sheets that show you what the paints will hold up to, How to spray, air pressures, recommended surface finishes etc, And with Centari it even tells you what clear to use over it and how soon it must be done, check it out ......A must.


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## jcclark (Jul 17, 2006)

Anybody using lacquer primer today is foolish.
There is nothing worse, and anybody that knows anyting about
paint won't use it.


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Here is what we have learned/ been told so far:


straight catalyzed urethane with no clear coat over it









this is cleared....it's kirker black.........









acrylic urethane--no clear coat resin over it










I'm still going to clear coat it because I'm putting black flake stripes on top of the base coat!!!! I don't want to see or feel any lines.


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## flynbrian (Sep 19, 2006)

I looked up the info on the website and its pretty interesting....DuPont is really thorough. I dont use laquer products but the asshole that painted my firebird sure as hell did....Screwed me bigtime. It shrank when the weather got nice and now it shows sandscratches all over and the paint seems overly brittle if the least little thing hits it it flakes right off. The car looked great for a few cold months then when it warmed up it got bad.
I think I like the look of AE on that 59 the best....heck with clear coat.


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## SUNNYD (Dec 14, 2005)

> _Originally posted by flynbrian_@Nov 9 2006, 01:43 PM~6536549
> *I looked up the info on the website and its pretty interesting....DuPont is really thorough.  I dont use laquer products but the asshole that painted my firebird sure as hell did....Screwed me bigtime. It shrank when the weather got nice and now it shows sandscratches all over and the paint seems overly brittle if the least little thing hits it it flakes right off. The car looked great for a few cold months then when it warmed up it got bad.
> I think I like the look of AE on that 59 the best....heck with clear coat.
> *


:nono: :nono: enamel is for taxi's and ice cream trucks,, that is yesterday's paint with yesterday's finsih


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

Ya enamel is yesterdays paint/finish, however we are talking about single stage EURATHANE, its TODAYS single stage, and on solid colors only, its the best GUN FINISH.

I dont beleive in it for metallics though.

I especially like it for BLACK

Dupont Chromapremier single stage


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## Tony_Montana (Sep 18, 2005)

updates???


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Not yet...I have been slacking. :biggrin: Once I'm complete I will get pics up.


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## Threadjacker (Sep 18, 2006)

_*TONY MONTANA* _ ,
Download this: http://www.gotwavs.com/php/sounds/?id=gog&...&movie=Scarface


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## DropNDrag (Nov 15, 2005)

dont use ss it will look dal or flat in a month and u have to keep buffing to make the shine come back unless you dont really care about it and dont have the money for bc then do ss i just wouldnt


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by DropNDrag_@Nov 25 2006, 03:43 PM~6634246
> *dont use ss it will look dal or flat in a month and u have to keep buffing to make the shine come back unless you dont really care about it and dont have the money for bc then do ss i just wouldnt
> *


 :scrutinize:


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by DropNDrag_@Nov 25 2006, 12:43 PM~6634246
> *dont use ss it will look dal or flat in a month and u have to keep buffing to make the shine come back unless you dont really care about it and dont have the money for bc then do ss i just wouldnt
> *


if u use centari or nason ss, this will be the case, especially if u use the cheap "wet look hardener", the more expensive harnder has uv protectants and will last longer , the cheap one doesn't.

Like i said before use DUPONT CHROMAPREMIER SS, it is expensive for ss, but give a show quality shine, right out of the gun!!! please only use on SOLID colors, any metallics must be clearcoated to look "SHOW"


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

Like i said before use DUPONT CHROMAPREMIER SS, it is expensive for ss, but give a show quality shine, right out of the gun!!! please only use on SOLID colors, any metallics must be clearcoated to look "SHOW"
[/quote]

CHROMAPREMIER SS, will last just as long as bc/cc!!!


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## KingLewi (Jul 12, 2003)

> _Originally posted by big pimpin_@Nov 21 2006, 01:15 PM~6610922
> *Not yet...I have been slacking.  :biggrin:  Once I'm complete I will get pics up.
> *



:uh:


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## tRiCk oR tReAt 2 (Aug 7, 2003)

some shop a few years ago did this to my cousins caddy... and after it was cleared.. it killed the effect of the mettalics.... what looked red metallics... after wetsanded, the mettalics looked silver and the color wasnt as bright.. it went from red to like a maroone color.. and u can see the sanding marks... not scratches but just see the colorness difference


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## 6Deuced (Mar 3, 2003)

> _Originally posted by tRiCk oR tReAt 2_@Dec 4 2006, 09:40 PM~6695443
> *some shop a few years ago did this to my cousins caddy... and after it was cleared..  it killed the effect of the mettalics....  what looked red metallics... after wetsanded, the mettalics looked silver and the color wasnt as bright.. it went from red to like a maroone color.. and u can see the sanding marks... not scratches but just see the colorness difference
> *


well you CANT wetsand single stage metallics, that shop is a bunch of blowasses!


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

> _Originally posted by tRiCk oR tReAt 2_@Dec 5 2006, 12:40 AM~6695443
> *some shop a few years ago did this to my cousins caddy... and after it was cleared..  it killed the effect of the mettalics....  what looked red metallics... after wetsanded, the mettalics looked silver and the color wasnt as bright.. it went from red to like a maroone color.. and u can see the sanding marks... not scratches but just see the colorness difference
> *


wet sanding SSmettalics=problems


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

> _Originally posted by KingLewi_@Dec 4 2006, 10:38 PM~6695117
> *:uh:
> *


Got some engine parts today at least....Christmas!!!!!!! :cheesy:


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