# Orion XTR2150



## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

I have had this XTR2150 laying in the garage for many years now. I have never tried to power it up or anything since I got it.

This amp has the removable top with the modules in it, does anybody have any diagrams or can they explain how they work?


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## d audio (Oct 22, 2005)

i will try to dig up my old tech sheets for that amp and get it to you.


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## snoopdan (Aug 24, 2005)

just forget it and sell it to me


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## d audio (Oct 22, 2005)

check your email. let me know if you got it.


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

Do they look like this?

[attachmentid=333760]


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Nov 1 2005, 05:21 AM~4112208
> *Do they look like this?
> 
> [attachmentid=333760]
> *


Pretty similar to that one


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

> _Originally posted by d audio_@Oct 31 2005, 09:33 PM~4110945
> *i will try to dig up my old tech sheets for that amp and get it to you.
> *


Thank you!


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

> _Originally posted by d audio_@Oct 31 2005, 09:33 PM~4110945
> *i will try to dig up my old tech sheets for that amp and get it to you.
> *


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## d audio (Oct 22, 2005)

i take it that's what you needed. :thumbsup:


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

> _Originally posted by d audio_@Nov 2 2005, 08:57 PM~4125500
> *i take it that's what you needed.  :thumbsup:
> *


I never got it yet......

[email protected]


So anyways I hooked this thing up, I made my own connectors ( I got this thing in pieces back in the day), I wired it up and got it to run great on one channel.

I left it hooked up for a few days (since the night I posted this thread) in a project I have. Tonight I while in the garage I decided to try the other channel which didnt work, after moving the modules around for a bit the other channel works perfect too.

So if anyone has any parts for one of these laying around (Snoopdan comes to mind? I've seen you blow shit up on Realmofexcursion a few times..lol), I could use a couple of things.


I need some modules, or I will be forced to solder bridges between the terminals to make it work, its just a spare amp right now but I'll run it for awhile after I get it all figured out or something.

I could also use the plug ins for it, power wire and speaker outs, mine work ok but stock ones would be cleaner.

And the only other thing I am in need of is the end cap of the amp where the speaker outs are 





I know it sounds like a piece of shit but other than me missing about the whole one side of it its a nice clean amp.


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## snoopdan (Aug 24, 2005)

ACK! dont go soldering anything! If you really need some jumpers, i'll mail you some...lol If I remember right those amps had little boards you clicked into them, the old audiocontrol xovers were like that too (kinda stupid, cause the modules would come loose while your subs were wangn' and you'd look retarded tearing your xover apart to put a mod back in). What you've proabably found is a way to just bypass the filter on the input side of the amp....which really there is nothing wrong with that. Those modules are just passive filters anyways, if im not mistaken...ive just not seen them in years. So doing what you did isnt really wrong, just maybe how you're going about it. Id not solder anything though, you can get those little jumpers from any place that repairs computers...or if you really need some i'll mail you em. lol


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

> _Originally posted by snoopdan_@Nov 3 2005, 12:25 AM~4126405
> *ACK!  dont go soldering anything!  If you really need some jumpers, i'll mail you some...lol    If I remember right those amps had little boards you clicked into them, the old audiocontrol xovers were like that too (kinda stupid, cause the modules would come loose while your subs were wangn' and you'd look retarded tearing your xover apart to put a mod back in).  What you've proabably found is a way to just bypass the filter on the input side of the amp....which really there is nothing wrong with that.  Those modules are just passive filters anyways, if im not mistaken...ive just not seen them in years. So doing what you did isnt really wrong, just maybe how you're going about it.  Id not solder anything though, you can get those little jumpers from any place that repairs computers...or if you really need some i'll mail you em.  lol
> *


So I can get those little black jumpers at a computer place? I never thought of that. I too agree, I dont really want to solder anything. I'll look around town to see if I can find some of those jumpers if I cant I'll let you know.

Thanks for the help Snoop!


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## snoopdan (Aug 24, 2005)

yeah they'res nothing special about those jumpers, they're standard pc / motherboard jumpers thats been in use forever. Glad that I could of helped


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2103807

I'm the winner! :cheesy: 










I only knew because I go there to buy them all the time...

If you look at the picture I posted in my previous post, that is using two of the adjustable crossover modules...
I have the owners manual around here somewhere that tells you all the configurations I could scan for you if I can find it...
I'm almost positive they are the same crossover modules for the XTR and HCCA models, you prolly just didnt recognize mine with all the shunts on it... 

You may possibly have the bypass modules in it, with two tiny blue DIP switches...
If that's the case, you only need to jumper the row in front of those...
I think that is what you have...


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

Ok, I got you some pics...
These are for the four channel XTR and HCCA series amps, but it's the same thing you need only doubled...















































Jumper settings used to bypass crossover on Orion HCCA competition series amps if you don't have the bypass cards...

The XTR and HCCA settings should be the same, that should get you going...


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

> _Originally posted by d audio_@Oct 31 2005, 11:22 PM~4111628
> *check your email. let me know if you got it.
> *


Sorry I didnt get right back to you, I been spending alot of time out in the garage the past few days doing odds and ends to my new car (66) before I start driving it.

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...pic=136873&st=0 <--- Pics of my new 66  

I did get the e-mail and I really appraciate it.




Also Brian thanks for everything you have posted too. I will have to go out to Rad Shack and buy some of those now that I know where to get them. And I also appreciate that you posted up manuals also.


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ALOW1_@Nov 11 2005, 02:23 AM~4183938
> *Also Brian thanks for everything you have posted too. I will have to go out to Rad Shack and buy some of those now that I know where to get them. And I also appreciate that you posted up manuals also.
> *


That's how I roll homie...


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## snoopdan (Aug 24, 2005)

Holy shit Brian has ancient manuals!?! damn car audio pack rat.


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## d audio (Oct 22, 2005)

no problem. glad i could help.


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

Ok so anyways I got this thing hooked up in a car last night.

2 problems.........

It wont shut off? I mean as soon as power is hooked up to it the L.E.D. light comes on and it stays on, even with the remote wire not hooked up. It didnt do that last time I ran it so dont know why it is now. With remote hooked up it has a very soft sounding pop when you shut the deck off like the amp is powering off, but the light stays on.


The other problem I have is the fuses. I run it hard for about half an hour tonight on a pair of old school Phoenix Gold 12's. I know I had it wired to 2 ohms mono but I kept in eye on it and made sure it didnt get too hot. It got warm but now hot like I imagined it would of.

But anyways as for the fuses, I had a pair of 25 amp fuses in it. After about half in hour of running it hard the fuses didnt pop....... They melted?

I never paid attention to the fuses while running it so I dont know if they started glowing or not, but they didnt pop the middles of both of them just melted.

So after looking at this link: (PDF File)

http://www.bcae1.com/opamptemp/Orion%20XTR%20manual.pdf

I see it says 60 amp fuse, but theres a spot for 2 fuses.... should I have 2 30 amperes in there??


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## Brahma Brian (Nov 17, 2004)

Holy a year later batman!

Yes, you need to run two 30's in it, but the melting fuse holder is a BAD common problem in those amps...


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## ALOW1 (Oct 24, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Brahma Brian_@Nov 26 2006, 09:23 AM~6638140
> *Holy a year later batman!
> 
> Yes, you need to run two 30's in it, but the melting fuse holder is a BAD common problem in those amps...
> *


I didnt have anything that I wanted to put it in  

Ok well i got 2 30's in it now and so far so good.

It still wont shut off though, when you shut power off to the remote wire it shuts down for a second and then just powers back up. So their is something not right in the auto turn on circuitry.

I got a guy that runs a repair shop but I wont see him for awhile as he's out of town. I been just pulling the fuses to shut it down right now as I only drive it to and from work.

I'm thinking about running a couple of solinoids in the trunk and running my power wire to them to shut her on and off since a noid is just a big relay basically.

I used to run noids to turn the spot lights on and off on the roll bar of my truck and those drew more amps then this amp will. I dont really want to do that though but I want to run this thing and its going to be awhile till I get it to the shop.


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