# solenoids click fast, but car doesn't go up



## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

I wired my setup so it is 72v to the front pump with 3 noids, and 36v to the rear with 2 noid and there is a fast clicking sound when i hit the switch. It happens on both front and back pump. Batteries are charged, what could be the problem?


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## SIK_9D1 (Sep 18, 2006)

Check the ground. Sounds like the solenoids are not grounded properly.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Oh shit! I was about to ask this same question.

Freshly charged batteries, brand new solenoids, hit the switch I hear the click but nothing else no raise at all. I also touched the motor and it feels noticeably warmer


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## miser211 (Feb 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BIG DAWG_@Mar 11 2008, 08:40 PM~10146240
> *Oh shit! I was about to ask this same question.
> 
> Freshly charged batteries, brand new solenoids, hit the switch I hear the click but nothing else no raise at all. I also touched the motor and it feels noticeably warmer
> *


bad battery go get them tested


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

> _Originally posted by SIK_9D1_@Mar 11 2008, 10:36 PM~10146192
> *Check the ground. Sounds like the solenoids are not grounded properly.
> *


thanks for the quick reply. I added one solenoid to the front pump , maybe I didn't clean the rack good enough.


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

> _Originally posted by miser211_@Mar 11 2008, 10:49 PM~10146333
> *bad battery go get them tested
> *


 Is it more likely that one went bad or all six?


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 87gbody_@Mar 11 2008, 08:50 PM~10146349
> *Is it more likely that one went bad or all six?
> *


One battery, if you have them in a series it will act as if all six are bad though..


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by miser211_@Mar 11 2008, 08:49 PM~10146333
> *bad battery go get them tested
> *


Thing is I'm sharing the same bank of 4 batts for the front and rear pump.

The front is working just fine, the rear isn't doing a damn thing though


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

This shit fucking sucks! I knew I shouldn't have laid the bitch out this evening. Got to drive 2hrs right now for work tomorrow......and I'm stuck.

Forgot to mention the rear had been acting up lately lifting REALLY slow :0


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

same problem here it not like click click click mine sounds more like clirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk clirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk clirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk make that sound.and I touched the noids and thats where I feel the vibration but now I have to see wich one it is.I am going to recharge my batts and see if thats it.


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BIG DAWG_@Mar 11 2008, 10:03 PM~10146483
> *This shit fucking sucks! I knew I shouldn't have laid the bitch out this evening. Got to drive 2hrs right now for work tomorrow......and I'm stuck.
> 
> Forgot to mention the rear had been acting up lately lifting REALLY slow  :0
> *


low batts homie.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by NIMSTER64_@Mar 11 2008, 09:30 PM~10146840
> *low batts homie.
> *


But wouldn't the front be acting up as well?


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Anyone? What's a bad motor do?


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## triple X level (Dec 4, 2002)

Big dawg it sounds like you have a dead rear motor,

one way to test it is to attach a jumper cable to the motor post

then on the 12V + tap the power wire terminal, dont tap the post as it might damage the threads.

if the pump spins then your motor is good and you have a bad connection somewhere else

if the motor does nothing then you have a dead motor.

replace the motor


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## miser211 (Feb 16, 2004)

> _Originally posted by BIG DAWG_@Mar 11 2008, 08:57 PM~10146408
> *Thing is I'm sharing the same bank of 4 batts for the front and rear pump.
> 
> The front is working just fine, the rear isn't doing a damn thing though
> *


good batteries :biggrin:


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BIG DAWG_@Mar 11 2008, 11:21 PM~10147570
> *Anyone? What's a bad motor do?
> *


a bad motor will do nothing LOL jp. man it sounds like the motor ain't spinning check the ground or like milk weed said jump the motor to check it.so everything thats running for the front is also for the back.even solenoids?could be a bad ground on the pump  let us know what it is.mind bogling.


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## Elpintor (Nov 10, 2006)

> _Originally posted by BIG DAWG_@Mar 11 2008, 11:21 PM~10147570
> *Anyone? What's a bad motor do?
> *


THey smell real bad and won't spin. Sounds like you might have a bad solonoid. Check them individualy. Sometimes the inner contacts melts not allowing the current to flow throw even thow you here them click.


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

wheres the cheapest place to buy a group 31 battery? right now i have die hard maintnence free deep cycles, can I use a different brand for one battery?


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

i found out it was a bad battery, but now one of my front noids makes a loud clicking noise when i hit the switch. It goes up fine , should I worry about the noise?


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## 81 cuttin (Aug 1, 2005)

When did you buy the Diehards because the 31's have a 1 1/2 warrenty at any sears all over america. If the datecode on the side of the battery is oldthen that they will call the store and get the sell date.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

87gbody- u can use a different brand battery, however u want the battery to be the same cca and ca's otherwise it wont match up well to the others.

BIG DAWG- it does sound like a bad motor. like the homie said take the front pump motor and put it on the back pump and see if it spins. if it dont spin then its gotta be solenoid. and becuz the front pump works u know that all the bateries thru series are just fine. so it will lead down to the noids or a noid. but definately give the front pump motor on ur back pump a try.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by milkweed_@Mar 11 2008, 11:25 PM~10148315
> *Big dawg  it sounds like you have a dead rear motor,
> 
> one way to test it is to attach a jumper cable to the motor post
> ...


Thanks, I'll do that


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 81 cuttin_@Mar 12 2008, 04:39 PM~10152358
> *When did you buy the Diehards because the 31's have a 1 1/2 warrenty at any sears all over america. If the datecode on the side of the battery is oldthen that they will call the store and get the sell date.
> *


 after i pulled out one of the batteries I found out they were group 29. The car was built in June and I bought it last fall so They should prob still have a warranty.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

I'm thinking it is the motor that's fried because I'm also getting a weird burnt like smell.

Thanks all those who helped, I'll do the motor test/swap a little later on today and see how that goes

To 87gbody, sorry homeboy, didn't mean to hijack your thread.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

ya burned smell is gonna more than likely be ur motor


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Yeah that sucks, instead of getting the car fixed for work I'm going to have to do it for the unemployment line :biggrin: 

Boss is never going to believe the car broke down for the whole week, on Spring Break Week!!


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## 87gbody (Dec 20, 2007)

> _Originally posted by BIG DAWG_@Mar 12 2008, 05:00 PM~10152507
> *I'm thinking it is the motor that's fried because I'm also getting a weird burnt like smell.
> 
> Thanks all those who helped, I'll do the motor test/swap a little later on today and see how that goes
> ...


no prob, good luck


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## triple X level (Dec 4, 2002)

take the motor off your front pump and put it on hte rear lift the car
then put it back on the front pump

just dont dump the rear and you should be ok to get to work, unless your system has a leak


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by milkweed_@Mar 12 2008, 03:56 PM~10152849
> *take the motor off your front pump and put it on hte rear  lift the car
> then put it back on the front pump
> 
> ...


Yeah it had a bad check valve for one of the front cylinders that I just replaced last week. I would have thought after so much time of lifting the front it would have been that motor that gave out not the rear but:











































I'm thinking it might be the motor after all 









:roflmao:


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

That case smelled GATCHO!!! :yessad:


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

aww what u talking about, that motor looks just fine lol. that bitch is toast


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## tyrellt (Mar 14, 2008)

> _Originally posted by 87gbody_@Mar 11 2008, 07:33 PM~10146150
> *I wired my setup so it is 72v to the front pump with 3 noids, and 36v to the rear with 2 noid and there is a fast clicking sound when i hit the switch. It happens on both front and back pump. Batteries are charged, what could be the problem?
> *


i had that problem.it was one of the solenoids was bad.try it.that should do the trick


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

the shunt blew to peices OHH DAMMMNNN.good call so does it work now?


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

with the new motor? don't you want to know what caused it?maybe low batts?


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## NIMSTER64 (Jun 10, 2002)

last two of my post coinside


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Haven't gotten around to buying a new motor, there are no local places to do so. I did swap the front motor to the rear pump to raise it and it worked fine.

I have no clue what caused it really, it had been a while since it started lifting slow, not low battery wise but more like the motor didn't have the power to raise the car quickly. I thought it was the pumphead that wasn't creating pressure anymore, but guess not.

So now I'm going to have to travel, 3hrs each way to go get the damn motor on time for tomorrow's parade :angry: With the way gas is right now I think I'm just going to sit and watch again...


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

its just a matter of voltage u put to the motor and how often ur playin with ur back pump. how ever i still have the same prestolite from showtime when i bought my setup 3 years ago on my back pump and it still looks good. and its only seen 48v and now its at 36v. i did blow the other one up and thats only becuz it was on the front pump and then my solenoid stuck on me and fried the motor


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## Psycho631 (Jan 28, 2005)

:biggrin:


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

HOLY FUCK!!!

Shit just keeps getting worse for me!! The damn cylinder top just popped off, and didn't punch a hole through the hood but raised a nice 2" circle, cracked paint and all that good shit :burn:


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

the fitting blew off or the whole top of the cylinder came off. and *PICS PICS PICS*


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Mar 15 2008, 12:03 AM~10172650
> *the fitting blew off or the whole top of the cylinder came off.  and PICS PICS PICS
> *


THE TOP!!  The fitting is still attached to the top donut looking part, I could see two seals of the cylinder where it ripped through the top part.  

I'll post some tomorrow, the damage is done anyway.



Now my dilemma is this happened at the engine shop, the mechanic called me at 10:30 at night telling me the cylinder came off when he was going to put it in the shop. So its out in the parking lot right now and the shop is deep in a back road. I got a lot of people that don't like me, and I know its only a matter of time before they start fucking around with the car.

The car lays on the ground, what should I do? Just jack the front up and put a taller spring in there to move it around for now, just as a quick temporary fix?

For a full stack spring, I'm going to need some sort of means of compressing the spring right?

Just jack the car up, take the wheels off, remove the spindle and take out the old springs, put in the new one and raise the lower arm with another jack to the point where I can put it back together, or is this too dangerous.

My lucks been pretty shitty lately, last thing I need is a fucking spring slamming into my face.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

just go and put a 4x4 in between the coils that should help prevent the coil from compressing. then put it in the shop. i think the guy at teh shop may have played around with the car when that happend or do u know the guy well enough that he didnt


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

what u can also do and lift the rear end up as high as u can get it then have someone push down on the opposite corner of the one where the cylinder blew and dump the rear corner that should help take some weight off the front corner that blew and help keep the spring from compressing


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Mar 15 2008, 12:32 AM~10172785
> *just go and put a 4x4 in between the coils that should help prevent the coil from compressing.  then put it in the shop.  i think the guy at teh shop may have played around with the car when that happend or do u know the guy well enough that he didnt
> *


No, actually I'm pretty sure they played around with it. There was no reason to hit the switch in the first place, the car was already raised. When I got there he told me I just hit the switch to raise the car and BOOM! I was too busy checking the damage that it really didn't click at the time.

Plus when I got there the front of the car was fully dumped...on both sides 


Do those not responsible for accidents sings really cover their ass?


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## hitinswchzonbichs (Jan 15, 2008)

Ay homie that shit sucks. I bet you dont even hop your shit but they decided too! You shoulda left it raised and disconnected your power, but its not your fault u thought they were responsible enough to not fuck with ur shit. Do what kingfish said with the 4x4's I had to do the same, or u can be creative. jackitup stuff that bitch carefully between coils or any gap u see and lower it.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by hitinswchzonbichs_@Mar 16 2008, 12:52 PM~10180394
> *Ay homie that shit sucks. I bet you dont even hop your shit but they decided too! You shoulda left it raised and disconnected your power, but its not your fault u thought they were responsible enough to not fuck with ur shit. Do what kingfish said with the 4x4's I had to do the same, or u can be creative. jackitup stuff that bitch carefully between coils or any gap u see and lower it.
> *


No, I don't hop it for shit. It's not even setup for it, it's got stock cut springs.

And I gave them the car raised to ride height, the quick disconnect disconnected, and I even closed the slow down almost all the way to keep them from slamming it on the floor.........and still.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

you need to make them responsible for what happended to ur car. they caused the damage and u did everythign right. u disconnected the ground. and went so far as to close ur slowdown valves in the event they did fuck with it. thats reason enough NOT TO TOUCH IT. and they did. so they are liable for ur damages and are responsible for having that shit fixed. ive been hopping my regal for 2 1/2 years and ive never had the top blow off. grant it there have been times that its happened to people and thats usually due to poor craftsmenship. but it happened after the guy said he just hit the switch and pop goes the weisel. make sure you get them to pay for whatever that needs to be fixed homie

i always remove all my battery connections in my ride if i need to have something worked on that i cannot perform myself so that no one dares fuck with my shit.


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## hitinswchzonbichs (Jan 15, 2008)

Ya all the extra precaution u took and they still had to mess with ur switches. Shit I know how your feelin about wanting to make them pay for it, your thinking theres no way they will admit the shit but u gotta say sumthin holmes.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Yeah I think I'm going to call the cops and atleast make a police report so it goes on record, and just take it from there.

As promised here are the pics:


























































What do you guys think?

I'm guessing what happened is this fuckers tried hopping it like previous times, but since the slowdown was almost completley closed they just kept dumping and pumping, and over locked it, causing the top to blow off.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Well since I'm going to have to be ordering parts anyway, what do you guys recommend?

I'm thinking 6"cylinders for the front, deep cups, and 4 1/2 ton springs?

I got 8" cylinders right now, but next to no coil. I think 6" cylinders and more coil will give me faster response time right, or should I stick to the 8's?

4 1/2 tons too much?


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## Psycho631 (Jan 28, 2005)

wait I dont get what happend, the top of the cylinder broke off??? Or is that the cylinder collar like on a reverse flow cylinder for a fwd that broke off


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Psycho631_@Mar 16 2008, 08:21 PM~10183019
> *wait I dont get what happend, the top of the cylinder broke off??? Or is that the cylinder collar like on a reverse flow cylinder for a fwd that broke off
> *


Honestly I don't know, I'm still learning all I know is that thing is supposed to be attached to the cylinder :biggrin:


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Somebody give me some feedback on the springs.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Kingfish! I see you homie, help me out. 4.5 ton coils a good choice to go with?


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

haha homie i got ya. youll definately get a few different responses as to what size cylinders to go with. i run 6's someone else may say run 8's. but basically either way youll still get the same amount of travel from the front suspension with either of the 2 cylinder sizes. u got a big car i would give the 4 1/2 a shot. however someone else may say that 3 1/2 will work as well. but basically its gonna boil down to finding out what coil size and how many turns will work best in ur car. but since u got a big heavy car i believe most people including myself would suggest 4 1/2 ton coils. if ur not hopping the car like i hop mine, then give the 4 1/2s a shot. 

but u could be on the right track with them tryin to hop the car since ur slowdown was closed. but then again it just could be poor craftsmen ship. either way it happend due to them hitting ur switch. if they didnt touch nothing and it just happened well then thats on the car. but if it happend after someone touched something other than what they were gettin paid to do, then its their responsibility to fix ur hood. and the cost of replacing 1 cylinder.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Good looking out, thanks for all the help


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

no problem. but id definately ask them what they plan on doin to fix that huge fuck up in ur hood if they say nothing, tell them u have no choice then but to report them to the better business bureau after you call the cops to make a report


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Mar 16 2008, 10:59 PM~10184669
> *no problem.  but id definately ask them what they plan on doin to fix that huge fuck up in ur hood if they say nothing, tell them u have no choice then but to report them to the better business bureau after you call the cops to make a report
> *


Yeah, I'm going to call him up and tell him what's up. It's too much bullshit from them already. They've done everything except actually fix the fucking car


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

whats the car there for. besides them creating more problems


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Originally to have the engine rebuilt, this time to get the engine to work properly. 

I took the car to them not because the motor was blown, actually I drove it there under it's own power. The thing is I have to travel an average of at least 2hrs for the nearest lowrider event. The car was working fine, but I knew the engine was tired because it already had some knock at start up. So for peace of mind, I took it in for a new engine.

That was back in december, got my car back right before new years. Was back in the shop first week of Jan. leaking oil all over the place and bogging, stumbling, and turning off. So they saw it and said it was the engine oil cooling line that was giving out, had to be ordered from the dealership.

A month and a half later the son of a bitch was giving me the runaround and slipped and I found out he hadn't even ordered the part. So I got it, took it to him to get replaced. Stopped the leak, but nothing more.

Took it back to him this week and told him the car is still running like shit, fix it. He said it was the MAP sensor and EGR valve, replaced the MAP sensor and still same shit.

EGR valve didn't arrive till later that week, which is when I took the car to him again. Told him I wanted him to replace the part, and find the REAL problem. 5 hours later this happened.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Originally to have the engine rebuilt, this time to get the engine to work properly. 

I took the car to them not because the motor was blown, actually I drove it there under it's own power. The thing is I have to travel an average of at least 2hrs for the nearest lowrider event. The car was working fine, but I knew the engine was tired because it already had some knock at start up. So for peace of mind, I took it in for a new engine.

That was back in december, got my car back right before new years. Was back in the shop first week of Jan. leaking oil all over the place and bogging, stumbling, and turning off. So they saw it and said it was the engine oil cooling line that was giving out, had to be ordered from the dealership.

A month and a half later the son of a bitch was giving me the runaround and slipped and I found out he hadn't even ordered the part. So I got it, took it to him to get replaced. Stopped the leak, but nothing more.

Took it back to him this week and told him the car is still running like shit, fix it. He said it was the MAP sensor and EGR valve, replaced the MAP sensor and still same shit.

EGR valve didn't arrive till later that week, which is when I took the car to him again. Told him I wanted him to replace the part, and find the REAL problem. 5 hours later this happened.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

i would make sure u get a real receipt on the BRAND NEW MOTOR and make sure the number match up to that motor. it sounds like he dont know what the fuck he is doin or he didnt put in a brand new motor. more like a rebuilt one.


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## BIG DAWG (Apr 2, 2002)

Yeah, sorry I typed too fast. NOT a new engine, just a rebuild.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

either way still sounds like the guys is a lil on the retarded side not to get a motor running correctly b4 the customer picks it up


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## jojo67 (Jan 5, 2008)

KINGFISH, HOW DO U CHECK TO SEE IF SOLENOIDS ARE GOOD HOMIE???


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by jojo67_@Jul 13 2008, 01:24 AM~11075875
> *KINGFISH, HOW DO U CHECK TO SEE IF SOLENOIDS ARE GOOD HOMIE???
> *



what u can do is take jumper cables and put the positive lead on 24v or 36v. then with the other end tap the cable to the motor. but before u do that put an extra nut on the motor that way u can take it to that nut and u wont fuck up the post or the nut already on. so after ur done u can take the nut off and no one will be the wiser lol. if the motor spins then a noid or all the noids are bad in the bank that works that pump. u can also take a cable goin from the 24v positive post and take the S side of the noid that will supply direct current to the noids. and will eliminate any switch wiring problems if the noids dont work then u no its not in the switch wiring. if they do work then u know its in the wiring


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## jojo67 (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks again homie!!! :thumbsup:


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by jojo67_@Jul 13 2008, 01:28 PM~11077503
> *Thanks again homie!!! :thumbsup:
> *


not a problem. u can always PM as well... sometimes i dont see everyones questions lol.


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## jojo67 (Jan 5, 2008)

Thanks homie, It turned out to be my battery charger, I plugged it in sounded like it was charging but I guess it did not. I put other batteries and it worked just fine. I did go buy new soleniods, but the old ones were fine, I guess I will save them for another day.


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## jojo67 (Jan 5, 2008)

By the way do you know of a place where I could take my charger to get checked, or do you think it's done?


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by jojo67_@Jul 14 2008, 01:28 AM~11081936
> *By the way do you know of a place where I could take my charger to get checked, or do you think it's done?
> *


i stay away from cheap battery chargers and i always keep my receipt lol. that way im taking the bitch back if it fucks up in the year i own it lol.. i have never had a battery charger serviced after it fucked up. it met the garbage can. so i dont know any place u could take it


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## jojo67 (Jan 5, 2008)

Do you know where to get a good new one?


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by jojo67_@Jul 14 2008, 07:05 PM~11087404
> *Do you know where to get a good new one?
> *


mine is from sears and it cost me $200.00


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## jojo67 (Jan 5, 2008)

:thumbsup:


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## Wizzard (Mar 3, 2007)

I got a two pump setup, i run 36V to the front and 36V to the rear and 4 solenoids/36V. I dont know how old my batteries are but when i hit the switch with freshly charged batts the solenoids click a few times before the car goes up. After about 6-7 days after charging the batts the noids just click and car wont go up...Sometimes even without even using the switches.

Bad batteries? Too many solenoids? :dunno:


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## BigNasty85Regal (Dec 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by WickedWizzard_@Jun 25 2009, 03:04 AM~14292100
> *I got a two pump setup, i run 36V to the front and 36V to the rear and 4 solenoids/36V. I dont know how old my batteries are but when i hit the switch with freshly charged batts the solenoids click a few times before the car goes up. After about 6-7 days after charging the batts the noids just click and car wont go up...Sometimes even without even using the switches.
> 
> Bad batteries? Too many solenoids?  :dunno:
> *


Too many solenoids. It sounds like they not gettig enough current to open properly. Usually the rule is one solenoid for every 2 batteries. I have 2 solenoids for my rear pumps (36 volts) and 3 for the fronts at 60 volts. I had 4 up front and ha the same problems as you are having. 

A hopper is a different story


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by WickedWizzard_@Jun 25 2009, 04:04 AM~14292100
> *I got a two pump setup, i run 36V to the front and 36V to the rear and 4 solenoids/36V. I dont know how old my batteries are but when i hit the switch with freshly charged batts the solenoids click a few times before the car goes up. After about 6-7 days after charging the batts the noids just click and car wont go up...Sometimes even without even using the switches.
> 
> Bad batteries? Too many solenoids?  :dunno:
> *



go have the batteries load tested...


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## Wizzard (Mar 3, 2007)

> _Originally posted by BigNasty85Regal+Jun 25 2009, 06:29 PM~14294590-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, i will try that if it doesnt work with taking off one solenoid on each side.


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