# rear end bridge



## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)




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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

anyone have any input on the fron to back placement of the upper mounts? I'm about to do my 4 link with the bridge and was just curious about how far back/foward of the center of the housing I should go.

Obviously too far back might cause clearence issues when dumped out (not the way this one is done though),but would allow for a inch or 2 longer arms with the same mounting point up front..

I'm running straight lowers a little farther in front of the housing than typical so i dont have any issue when locked up.

anyone else got any pics?


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

if u were wanting to do something of the nature without having both upper trailing arms on top of ur rear end u can do a wishbone style with 1 mounting bracket to the top of the pumpkin and then the 2 arms to the rear frame section with drop mounts or mounted below using another form if u wish. personally i wouldnt set the rear mounts too far back on the rear cuz you are correct in causing clearance issues. especially with ur muffler. grant it its just a muffler but who wants a damn hole in theirs lol. theres various ways to do the rear end, just gotta decide which is gonna be best for you. i would just do drop mounts for the uppers and youd be just fine.


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

theres no clearence problems with this it's only set back about 2". the only reason for doing this is because i broke one of my ears.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

gotta love breaking the ears lol


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

usually leads to something good though. cuz most will just cut the other one off and have to build ontop of it, which makes the mounting points for the uppers higher, which in turn is like doing drop mounts a few inches lower for the trailing arms


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

i have 14's in the rear and i get full lock up. i can drive fully up or fully dumped with no problems but now i won't pause 3 i was thinking about adding more coil to get a little more lift just curious what you think.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

i have the exact same proble.. it wont hit 3 wheel unless u hit the gas and turn the wheel or push down on the corner. i too was thinking of adding more coils but i already have 2 turns cut off of a full stack and when i lift up one corner it just raises the whole back end lol.


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

i have 3 1/2 turns but with stock arms and with the original ears it would pause easy.


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## MR.SKAMS (Jan 21, 2004)

Hmm Good Shit with the bridge. Juiced79Regal I am curious if adding chains or a chain bridge will let you pause three again with out hitting a corner or gas. The only advantage I see of breaking an ear is getting a higher lock up but no more standing three.

I had the same problem with my 83. I broke one of my ears and did a bridge and it will no longer pause three just like yours when I had my orig. ears and stock upper arms. I will post pix of my shit when I get home.


Ese Lil Dan


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

thats one of the main things I'm worried about, 3 wheeling with my 4 link, I've been putting alot of thought into it but i dont think i can figure it out without a computer program,lol. just have to guess,i guess...

where do you guys mount your arms to on the frame?


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## MR.SKAMS (Jan 21, 2004)

I kept the original stock location on the frame.


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

stock location on mine. i think i'm going to experement with the chain bridge and a little more coil.


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

alright cool,the only reason i can think of it not 3 wheeling is that the stock arms gave a lil more twist needed...i bet they werent reinforced. and the new arms dont give any twist so it wont lean so easy.


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

your probably right it sounds good might have to try a heim joint on the ends of my uppers. see what happens.


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## MR.SKAMS (Jan 21, 2004)

Yup Heim joint should do it. I believe the arms are unable to twist or move horizontally which prevents it from bust a 3. I was also thinking of of doing a wish bone type with a heim joint to the bridge.

Ese Lil Dan


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## MR.SKAMS (Jan 21, 2004)

Here is my bridge.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

got a little clearance issue with the uppers ? LOL

good idea though.


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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)

HERE"S A pic of a real bridge from tower to tower with c-bridge across


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## 1Stop Auto Shop (Jul 22, 2007)

THOOSE UPPERS NEED TO SWIVEL MORE COIL NO CHAIN WONT HELP 3 WHEELIN YOUR BUSHINGS ARE GOING BAD BECAUSE THERE IS TO MUCH TWISTING TENSION ON THEM EASY FIX YOU KNOW WHATS UP D


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## B_BORGERDING (Apr 15, 2007)

Wow, I never seen a bridge on top of the rear end like that! NICE!!


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## NaptownSwangin (Jun 21, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Chris_@Feb 14 2008, 01:45 PM~9941863
> *HERE"S A pic of a real bridge from tower to tower with c-bridge across
> 
> 
> ...



Fail. :| 


Read the topic b4 you post.


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## TYTE9D (May 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by NaptownSwangin_@Feb 14 2008, 02:54 PM~9943473
> *Fail.  :|
> Read the topic b4 you post.
> *


 :roflmao:


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

pretty soon people will realize that raising your upper mounts on the rear end is the same as dropping them on the frame


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

None of this addresses the reason why the ears break in the first place. It's due to the geometry of the rear suspension. The uppers try pulling away from each other the farther you lock up. Thats why bushings don't last and shit breaks. Putting the mounts on a tube above the stocks doesn't solve the real problem. That first pic is scary. Thats some thin ass tubing and tabs for the bushing mounts.


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

those tabs are 1/4" plate and the tubing is .083 thousands thick. i know why ears break abd yes it did solve the problem for me because i snpped an ear off. oh yea i havn't broke anything yet and yes i was hopping the car. 14's in the rear full extension.


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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)

> _Originally posted by NaptownSwangin_@Feb 14 2008, 03:54 PM~9943473
> *Fail.  :|
> Read the topic b4 you post.
> *


ok i posted the wrong shit my bad but still who the fuck makes a bridge like that that shit is wack an ugly an when you break an ear off you redo a another axle not put metal tubing to try to make it work dumb ass


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

hey bumb ass i didn't make the bridge to fix the problem of breaking ears. i made because there is no ears on the diff. oh and you say it's wack and ugly in any of my fucking posts did i say it was perfect apperently you didn't read the topic it didn't have your name on it .i posted it because some one else wanted to see it so next time keep your retarted ass comments to your self!! oh yea those are some nice round holes you cut on your (real bridge)!!!!!!!!!!


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## 1Stop Auto Shop (Jul 22, 2007)

SOMETIMES PEOPLE THINK THEY KNOW SOMETHING THAT IS UNIQUE & IT MAKES THEM FEEL LIKE HYDRO TECHS OR SOMETHING BASICALLY AT THIS POINT MOST ARE JUST LOOKING TO IMPROVE NOT TO LEARN THE BASICS SOME OF US BEEN IN THE GAME FOR AWHILE AND ARE TRYING TO IMPROVE CERTAIN ASPECTS THAT BRIDGE LOOKS FIND TO ME THAT WE USE THE SAME SIZE TUBING ON ARE 4 LINKS AND THE TABS ARE PLENTY ENOUGH STRONG THAT IS WHY THE SELL THEM READY FOR INSTALL FOR EXACTLY WHAT THEY WERE USED FOR ON THIS BRIDGE SET UP (TRAILING ARM/4LINK MOUNTS)


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## MR.SKAMS (Jan 21, 2004)

Whats up kids? The reason of this topic is to learn from each other, talk shit but improve our work. I asked juiced79regal to post pics of his bridge so that I could see how it compared to mine. 

The reason I had had the bridge on my rear end was beacuse I broke off an ear. I had 14" strokes in the back and had them chained off. I broke the chains and continued to ride with out the chains, but I still had stock uppers and lowers which was one of my fuck ups. I let my cousin lock up the G ride but instead of him dumping it he locked it up and it snapped the ear. 

I was debating on getting a new rear end or building a bridge. I decided to buld the bridge but then I was not longer able to stand three like I was before. Now I get the full 14 inches of lock in the ass but no more standing three. 

In my situation I overlocked my shit w/o extended or adjustable uppers. I am trying to figure out whose else has build a bridge and how it has worked for them. I eventually want to get a new rear end w. adjustable uppers but for the time being I was curious if the bridge on the rear end could be improved.

Peace

Ese LiL Dan


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Feb 11 2008, 11:05 PM~9920502
> *gotta love breaking the ears lol
> *


I love when my girl nibbles mine :biggrin: :biggrin:


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## hitinswchzonbichs (Jan 15, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Chris_@Feb 14 2008, 11:45 AM~9941863
> *HERE"S A pic of a real bridge from tower to tower with c-bridge across
> 
> 
> ...


Im in the process of getting my back strokers hooked up with swivel balls. But what I wanted to really know is why doesnt this setup have cups on the top to keep the springs in place? I thought you had to have top and bottom cups. Someone tell me if you do and does it matter. I gotta 82 regal.


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## MidwestFleetwood (Jan 5, 2007)

HERE IS A PIC OF MY FOUR LINK WITH A BRIDGE




























THIS IS A PIC OF MY OLD REAR END..IF U DONT USE THE THE COIL OVER CUPS THAT WELD TO THE BRIDGE THIS IS WHAT COULD HAPPEN TO YOUR CYLINDER LOOK AT THE WEAR


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

if you have a real bridge you don't need cups on top thats why his holes on top look like ovals. instead of saying it's a real bridge it should probably say it looks crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## MR.SKAMS (Jan 21, 2004)

What up MC VIDA?


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

my rearend


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## Mark (Nov 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by R.O. caddy man_@Feb 16 2008, 12:01 AM~9954842
> *HERE IS A PIC OF MY FOUR LINK WITH A BRIDGE
> 
> 
> ...


what size angle iron did you use for the lower mounts?


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## MidwestFleetwood (Jan 5, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Mark_@Feb 25 2008, 09:02 AM~10023698
> *what size angle iron did you use for the lower mounts?
> *


i believe it was 5x5


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## MidwestFleetwood (Jan 5, 2007)

> _Originally posted by stevie d_@Feb 25 2008, 12:48 AM~10022710
> *my rearend
> 
> 
> ...


i dont know what kind of car thats for but on some u have to be careful where u put those upper mounts ,they might hit the body when u set it back on  looks good


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

nuttin a big hammer wont sort lol its only the rear seat pan


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## MidwestFleetwood (Jan 5, 2007)

:biggrin:


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## doctahouse (Sep 10, 2004)

> HERE IS A PIC OF MY FOUR LINK WITH A BRIDGE
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## MidwestFleetwood (Jan 5, 2007)

> > HERE IS A PIC OF MY FOUR LINK WITH A BRIDGE
> >
> >
> >
> ...


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## Guest (Feb 25, 2008)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Feb 14 2008, 10:39 PM~9946005
> *None of this addresses the reason why the ears break in the first place. It's due to the geometry of the rear suspension. The uppers try pulling away from each other the farther you lock up. Thats why bushings don't last and shit breaks. Putting the mounts on a tube above the stocks doesn't solve the real problem. That first pic is scary. Thats some thin ass tubing and tabs for the bushing mounts.
> *


x2


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

I feel the mounts for the trailing arms bushings dont need to be very strong really.unless youre building a drag car or a tractor puller.

So far the plans on my blazer are to have my lowers straight or very close to it, and a mild triangulation on the uppers. Swivels on one end, dont know frame or axle side yet.

I'm planning on a 1x2" bridge over the pumkin welded to channel on top the axle (same as powerball mounts) The other alternative was to run my uppers angling inwards but would put them over my driveline,wich would work as low as I want to put the mounts.

OutHopU, were you hinting towards straighter uppers being less stressful?


They are all adjustables so i could just leave the jamb nut off till I figure it all out. BTW I'm running 20"+ strokes and want killer sides. I'm really amped about it,should be starting the fabrication next month.


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## 1Stop Auto Shop (Jul 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by R.O. caddy man_@Feb 25 2008, 08:20 AM~10023770
> *i dont know what kind of car thats for but on some u have to be careful where u put those upper mounts ,they might hit the body when u set it back on   looks good
> *


I AGREE LOOKS LIKE CLEARENCE ISSUES


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Feb 25 2008, 10:01 PM~10029222
> *I feel the mounts for the trailing arms bushings dont need to be very strong really.unless youre building a drag car or a tractor puller.
> 
> So far the plans on my blazer are to have my lowers straight or very close to it, and a mild triangulation on the uppers. Swivels on one end, dont know frame or axle side yet.
> ...


There is no reason not to build the mounts for the arms strong. It doesn't take a lot to make very strong mounts that will never fail. You have to remember that if your mounts flex at all over time the metal will fatigue and fail. That's why I said the pic was scary, the mount tabs are not gusseted at all. 

As for your rearend mounting issues, thats why I'm going with a 9" Ford. It's an all steel housing that I can weld my mounts directly to without the bridge clutter.

As for trailing arm lay out. Going straight on the lowers should work well and prevent bushing bind. The uppers must be triangulated, but the correct angle on the pivots can ease stress on the bushing. I would not use heims joints anywhere on my ride, they just don't hold up to the high loads we subject them to. I also will not use adjustable arms since without the jam nut tight it can "selfmachine" the threads off and fails. All the arms in the suspension travel on an arc when going through the sweep of lift and lay. The key is to make sure they don't arc away from each other.


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 1Stop Auto Shop_@Feb 25 2008, 09:53 PM~10030428
> *I AGREE LOOKS LIKE CLEARENCE ISSUES
> *


sall good a hammer will sort it after all its only a hopper :biggrin: my last hopper was exactly the same and not a problem there


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## 1Stop Auto Shop (Jul 22, 2007)

OKKA DOC!!!!


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## BIG WHIT 64 (Nov 30, 2005)




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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)

> _Originally posted by juiced79regal_@Feb 15 2008, 11:04 PM~9954882
> *if you have a real bridge you don't need cups on top thats why his holes on top look like ovals. instead of saying it's a real bridge it should probably say  it looks crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> *


Its all good homie i dont use cups on top
the ovals holes are there for a reason for the cylinder to have play when lockin up or layin with 22 tele cylinder lets see you do something like this :0 :0 :0 
we will let the viewers deside if it looks like crap


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## charles85 (Apr 8, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Chris_@Feb 28 2008, 04:26 AM~10048578
> *Its all good homie i dont use cups on top
> the ovals holes are there for a reason for the cylinder to have play when lockin up or layin with 22 tele cylinder lets see you do something like this :0  :0  :0
> we will let the viewers deside if it looks like crap
> ...


I see your point there :thumbsup:


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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)

:biggrin: :biggrin:


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## juiced79regal (Sep 22, 2007)

that shit is easy to do you act like it's rocket science or something. your the one who had to start the critisism about other peoples work but that shit was a quick fix i did on my lunch break. i know you probably a master fabricator! :loco:


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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)




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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

had a brain fart whilst reading this ! 

the people that have run new pumpkin mounts because they broke one. Its a good idea, and i'm not 100% on this yet but if you ran some 3" channel from left to right, instead of welding eyelets onto it for the bushings you could drill and fit 'swivel mounts' for the bushings to fit into (like huge Rose joints ?) then the ends of the arms could swivel left to right about the arm center (as they do with most extendable arms) and the bush could also swivel front to back around the center mount easing nearly all the stress ! the only other problem is the fact that the axle doesnt move evenly when you 3, ideally you'd need arms that can compress by about 1", but that defeats the point of the arms.

But by fitting the eyelet into a pumpkin bridge and allowing it to spin may have some major benefits !? 

unless i'm just pissed again ?


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

here's a really shit photoshop scribble to try and explain what i was on about ?

instead of having the mount welded to the 'bridge' weld a bolt to the bottom of the mount and screw it down through the bridge, but leave it loose enough to turn about 180' ?


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## doctahouse (Sep 10, 2004)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Chris_@Feb 29 2008, 03:24 AM~10056566
> *
> *



Is it just me or is the lower coil over cup bent on the drivers side?

Is the top picture layed out? 

What made you decide not to go with powerballs?

Looks good, nice pinion angle.


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

Mine


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Feb 29 2008, 02:25 PM~10058775
> *had a brain fart whilst reading this !
> 
> the people that have run new pumpkin mounts because they broke one. Its a good idea, and i'm not 100% on this yet but if you ran some 3" channel from left to right, instead of welding eyelets onto it for the bushings you could drill and fit 'swivel mounts' for the bushings to fit into (like huge Rose joints ?) then the ends of the arms could swivel left to right about the arm center (as they do with most extendable arms) and the bush could also swivel front to back around the center mount easing nearly all the stress ! the only other problem is the fact that the axle doesnt move evenly when you 3, ideally you'd need arms that can compress by about 1", but that defeats the point of the arms.
> ...





> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Feb 29 2008, 02:44 PM~10058901
> *here's a really shit photoshop scribble to try and explain what i was on about ?
> 
> instead of having the mount welded to the 'bridge' weld a bolt to the bottom of the mount and screw it down through the bridge, but leave it loose enough to turn about 180' ?
> *


None of what you describe corrects the real problem, which is as the rear of the car lifts the arms try to move away from each other at the ends. Thats what causes the broken ears and worn out bushings. If you take a good look at some of the pics you can see how the bolt is pulling the bushing. In one it looks like the bushing sleeve isn't even round any more. The idea of the bolt being left loose would just wear throught the bridge over time, and open up the holes.

And for the dude with the 22" telescopics thats not even sitting below stock when layed out. Getting it to lock up close to that and laying frame would impress me. Cars that "lay" at stock height are not hard to build.


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## meaninthesestreets (Jun 11, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Chris_@Feb 28 2008, 03:26 AM~10048578
> *Its all good homie i dont use cups on top
> the ovals holes are there for a reason for the cylinder to have play when lockin up or layin with 22 tele cylinder lets see you do something like this :0  :0  :0
> we will let the viewers deside if it looks like crap
> ...



that shits tight hommie


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

yup, total crap,lol . looks good. could you telle me the length of your upper and lower arms?


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Feb 29 2008, 06:47 PM~10061086
> *Cars that "lay" at stock height are not hard to build.
> *



cars that 'lay' at stock height are not LOWriders.




<stands back....>


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Mar 4 2008, 10:44 AM~10084653
> *cars that 'lay' at stock height are not LOWriders.
> <stands back....>
> *


That is true.


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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Mar 4 2008, 08:44 AM~10084653
> *cars that 'lay' at stock height are not LOWriders.
> <stands back....>
> *


ITS A HOPPER 
NOT A LOWRIDER 
:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: 
THIS IS THE LOWRIDER


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Fair enough then.


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## PrEsiDenTiaL__99 (Sep 24, 2006)




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## PrEsiDenTiaL__99 (Sep 24, 2006)

wrong post ... lol :ugh:


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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)

> _Originally posted by PrEsiDenTiaL__99_@Mar 5 2008, 10:09 PM~10100575
> *
> *


THATS SOME FUNNY SHIT 
:cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy: :biggrin: :biggrin: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

I have worked on tons of installs...and never understand why people do such large holes?
Why? is it so you dont have to extend your trailing arms ? 



> _Originally posted by Ca holes dillac Chris_@Feb 14 2008, 11:45 AM~9941863
> *HERE"S A pic of a real bridge from tower to tower with c-bridge across
> 
> 
> ...


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

its to do with the angle changes thru the lift, as the rearend moves forward theres bound to be a squeak somewhere. I've ben trying to think of techniques to eliminate bind and squeak and came up with a couple good methods, but would like to figure something out to revolutionize the hydro industry. the cylinder coming thru the rear floor is one of the biggest hold backs keeping hydros from growing and getting more technical in my opinion.


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## Guest (Aug 16, 2008)

say homie i got an 85 regal, what drive shaft did u use


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## Cadillac Chris (Jul 26, 2007)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Aug 15 2008, 10:01 PM~11356629
> *its to do with the angle changes thru the lift, as the rearend moves forward theres bound to be a squeak somewhere. I've ben trying to think of techniques to eliminate bind and squeak and came up with a couple good methods, but would like to figure something out to revolutionize the hydro industry. the cylinder coming thru the rear floor is one of the biggest hold backs keeping hydros from growing and getting more technical in my opinion.
> *



SMART MAN


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## TWEEDY (Apr 21, 2005)

:0


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## pinche chico (Jan 29, 2007)

TTT I BEEN LOOKING FOR A POST LIKE THIS,,
I WANNA REINFORCE MY REAR END AS WELL,,I SEE SOME OF YOU MADE THE UPPER MOUNTS TO BE LOCATED AT THE FRAME?
HOW MUCH LONGER OF THE ARM IS NEEDED? AND WILL IT BIND UP WHEN ITS LAYED? THANKS


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## pinche chico (Jan 29, 2007)

OOPS


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Aug 15 2008, 10:01 PM~11356629
> *its to do with the angle changes thru the lift, as the rearend moves forward theres bound to be a squeak somewhere. I've ben trying to think of techniques to eliminate bind and squeak and came up with a couple good methods, but would like to figure something out to revolutionize the hydro industry. the cylinder coming thru the rear floor is one of the biggest hold backs keeping hydros from growing and getting more technical in my opinion.
> *



Put a multi-plane bearing in, they work a treat. here's mine...

Rubbish crap hole before:









with bearing in place (test fit only):









when i was happy with the alignment i pressed the bearing into a square piece of 5mm pate i had left over and welded the plate in place, only tak welded it as its all 'experimental' but been like that for a year now and wouldn't fit them any other way now. Just make sure you order a bearing with the correct ID for your rams and get 'self lubricating' ones too so they're fit and forget :biggrin:


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

I have seen hard plastic lined cylinder swivel cylinder mounts and would love to see more pics of custom coil over upper cylinder mounts.... Post em up !!!


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## timdog57 (Apr 2, 2002)

All you need to keep the cylinder quiet is weld 3" pipe in and it helps a couple different things.


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

I meant spherical ball type or others not fixed


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by timdog57_@Aug 18 2008, 07:45 AM~11370390
> *All you need to keep the cylinder quiet is weld 3" pipe in and it helps a couple different things.
> *



thats what i did have and it eventualy wore thru the casing, and the big hole let mice in my trunk over the winter :angry: 



Jon I've seen your post before on that but i dont know what a multi plane bearing is or how they work really.hard to tell from the pics.whats are they made out of and how do they work?


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

Its like a powerball with a hole in the middle... 
The bearing is sandwiched in place like some balljoints


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## mynsbigr (Sep 28, 2005)

really like those cylinder bushings u used bro thats tight been looking for another solution to cutting oval holes do u know the name of the company u got them from or anything?


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Aug 18 2008, 04:34 AM~11370157
> *Put a multi-plane bearing in, they work a treat. here's mine...
> 
> Rubbish crap hole before:
> ...


 Thats nice shit. I've been wanting to try something like that for awhile. Doing my G-body frame with a special cup that I fitted with bearings. Just haven't had the chance to really see it in action yet.. :biggrin:

Here are the cup/spring settups without the cylinders








Here they are mounted in the frame with the cylinders


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

very cool man


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## LAC'N_NOTHING (May 2, 2005)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Aug 19 2008, 11:07 PM~11388805
> *Thats nice shit. I've been wanting to try something like that for awhile. Doing my G-body frame with a special cup that I fitted with bearings. Just haven't had the chance to really see it in action yet.. :biggrin:
> 
> Here are the cup/spring settups without the cylinders
> ...


wtf is that??what kinda rear is that it looks wicked
more pics?????


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by LAC'N_NOTHING_@Aug 24 2008, 11:17 AM~11424196
> *wtf is that??what kinda rear is that it looks wicked
> more pics?????
> *


thats his g-body dancer I wish he's hurry up and finish, really been wanting to see it!


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## 94roadmaster (Nov 20, 2007)

i need to hurry and get my bridge done


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## Jimmy C (Oct 9, 2007)

Still haven't seen a nicer bridge than "Classic Customs" posted a year or so ago.


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Jimmy C_@Aug 25 2008, 01:04 PM~11432566
> *Still haven't seen a nicer bridge than "Classic Customs" posted a year or so ago.
> *



got a pic?


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## Jimmy C (Oct 9, 2007)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Aug 25 2008, 03:06 PM~11434126
> *got a pic?
> *


 I'll PM him now.


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## Jimmy C (Oct 9, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Jimmy C_@Aug 26 2008, 04:03 PM~11444649
> *I'll PM him now.
> *


 Just PM'd "Classic Customs" and asked him to post that "bridge." I'm thinking he will, seems to be a good guy.


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## Guest (Aug 28, 2008)

thanks jimmy. is this the one your talking about?










i still build all mine this way. with just a few changes just for different looks


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## LogoSpade (Nov 30, 2007)

GOT some "Q's" for you guys. building a 84 cutty right now and going for 3wheel. 
im thinkin coiloverd 14's or 16's with a half stack.

what kind of drive-line probs. will i have?
will i have to extend the "uppers" in the back?
how many batts. to "park 3"?
and should i think about building in a "chain bridge"?

some info would be a great help, it looks to me YOU GUYS KNOW these cars!!!
THANKS TO ANYONE THAT CAN HELP!!!
my shop is new and the only cars i have built are impalas and town cars.
here's some pics of "my old" 94 town car that i did in 2002.
12 batts, 4 pump. those are 12's with a lil more than a half stack. 
i had no drive line probs,
and stock uppers.


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## MidwestFleetwood (Jan 5, 2007)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Aug 28 2008, 08:29 AM~11459402
> *thanks jimmy.  is this the one your talking about?
> 
> 
> ...


Thats nice :thumbsup:


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## royalts-car-club (Feb 21, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Cadillac Chris_@Feb 28 2008, 03:26 AM~10048578
> *Its all good homie i dont use cups on top
> the ovals holes are there for a reason for the cylinder to have play when lockin up or layin with 22 tele cylinder lets see you do something like this :0  :0  :0
> we will let the viewers deside if it looks like crap
> ...


what size cylinders


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Aug 28 2008, 07:29 AM~11459402
> *thanks jimmy.  is this the one your talking about?
> 
> 
> ...


 oh yes :thumbsup:


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## Jimmy C (Oct 9, 2007)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Aug 18 2008, 04:42 PM~11375266
> *thats what i did have and it eventualy wore thru the casing, and the big hole let mice in my trunk over the winter  :angry:
> Jon I've seen your post before on that but i dont know what a multi plane bearing is or how they work really.hard to tell from the pics.whats are they made out of and how do they work?
> *


 Does this bearing spin as the cylinder slides through the hole? Is this what keeps it quiet? Sounds like a winner, but you need to elaborate on that.
With the bridge that "CC" has posted, and the bearings (that you speak of and if they work like you say), it would together make a great set-up, no?
For a straight axle, w/ power balls and this bridge set-up w/ the bearings, either w/ coils or leafs, this sounds like a winner.


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

I found a local distributor of bearings that will work .. They carry many different styles 

















Now you know what it is... Imagine the possibilities 
:biggrin:


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## Jimmy C (Oct 9, 2007)

> _Originally posted by clairfbeeIII_@Aug 30 2008, 05:09 AM~11477535
> *I found a local distributor of bearings that will work .. They carry many different styles
> 
> 
> ...



Hey, wouldn't the pair w/ the inside sleeve that rotates to different angles be the one to use, just a hair bigger ID than the cylinder's OD?


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## Guest (Aug 30, 2008)

> _Originally posted by R.O. caddy man+Aug 28 2008, 09:04 PM~11465484-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thanks guys. i was just tired of the channel look i had been using for years


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

I ordered a big old box of the bearings and will be using them on the next couple of installs...
We will see how they go... I promise to report back!


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## Jimmy C (Oct 9, 2007)

> _Originally posted by PrEsiDenTiaL__99_@Mar 5 2008, 10:09 PM~10100575
> *
> *


 Yo Pres, No need to show the "Club Muscle" on the forum. I do realize that showin' the baddest "headbreaker" will stop any bullshit before it happens, but DAMN, not all the clubs have brothers who are "Ripped" like that. Chill Man...LOL


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## lo68impala (Jan 26, 2006)

ttt great topic


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## LogoSpade (Nov 30, 2007)

TTT


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

looks like you sussed it out, i've been away from LIL for ages. 

i used the 'self lubricating' multi plane bearing, buy ones with an ID of about 1mm larger than the OD of the cylinder to prevent knocking but still allowing the ram to travel easily through it.


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## Guest (Sep 23, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Sep 23 2008, 08:14 AM~11673643
> *looks like you sussed it out, i've been away from LIL for ages.
> 
> i used the 'self lubricating' multi plane bearing, buy ones with an ID of about 1mm larger than the OD of the cylinder to prevent knocking but still allowing the ram to travel easily through it.
> *


call me silly...................... but i think this whole bearing idea is a little weird.


not to mention the fact that its just not needed


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## timdog57 (Apr 2, 2002)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Sep 23 2008, 09:41 AM~11673729
> *call me silly...................... but i think this whole bearing idea is a little weird.
> not to mention the fact that its just not needed
> *


  

Agreed


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Sep 23 2008, 06:41 AM~11673729
> *call me silly...................... but i think this whole bearing idea is a little weird.
> not to mention the fact that its just not needed
> *



your silly. 


:biggrin:


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

Why is it not needed? 
Are piston pumps not needed? 
Progressing the sport is a great thing..... Isn't that why most of the people are on LIL?
I think the bearing is a great idea....and it works... its less noisy ..rides smoother...and saves the frame from wear and tear..as well as the cylinders housing...... Why would that be a bad thing?
Having elongated holes so the cylinder can move freely is a bad idea if you ask me!!!
If there is a better longer lasting way......wouldnt you want that?


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2008)

> _Originally posted by clairfbeeIII_@Sep 26 2008, 06:39 AM~11704378
> *Why is it not needed?
> Are piston pumps not needed?
> Progressing the sport is a great thing..... Isn't that why most of the people are on LIL?
> ...


 :uh: prove it works!!!

and yea your right pistons are not needed. IF YOU NEED A PISTON TO MAKE YOUR SHIT HIT HARD THEN GO BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD!!

its like timdog57 pointed out. you only need to weld in a peice of pipe. the cylinders will last longer than you will  


you said you bought a "big ole box" and was gonna use them.......... well have you?
just think about it.


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

They work good... pics on the way ...

If your so o.g..put some cement in your trunk and have a nice day...

Some people are interested in moving the sport forward...some are just haters..


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2008)

> _Originally posted by clairfbeeIII_@Sep 26 2008, 09:40 AM~11705024
> *They work good... pics on the way ...
> 
> If your so o.g..put some cement in your trunk and have a nice day...
> ...


 :uh: i never said i was o.g.... i am only 16 and work at MCdonalds to pay for my 78 pinto :uh: 


and what am i hating on? just because i think putting bearings around your cylinders is a stupid idea that makes me a hater :uh: 




then so be it..................... but its still a waste.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Sep 26 2008, 07:45 AM~11705053
> *
> and what am i hating on? just because i think putting bearings around your cylinders is a stupid idea that makes me a hater  :uh:
> then so be it..................... but its still a waste.
> *


But you havent done it, so how can you really comment, its just an opinion and they're like arseholes everyone has one, not everyone wants to hear it ! 

mine have been in over a year now and i have no regrets in the slightest, its still neat and tidy and noise free, in fact the cylinder moves so much smoother and is held much more stable than the bridge and trunk floor alone so I can thoroughly recommend it, IF YOU HAVE A G-BODY ! I can only comment on G-bodies as thats what i have. 

It reminds me of Andrew's Post where he says engineering a frame is better than slapping a load of steel on all 4 sides, we all know its right, but some people cant look forward unless its being sold to them from well known shop front. If it helps i've a couple of 'proper' enquiries from known hydro suppliers about these bearings, their fitment and cost so you may see them on some shop shelves soon, or you may not depending on profit margin etc etc !


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Sep 26 2008, 11:59 AM~11706115
> *But you havent done it, so how can you really comment, its just an opinion and they're like arseholes everyone has one, not everyone wants to hear it !
> 
> mine have been in over a year now and i have no regrets in the slightest, its still neat and tidy and noise free, in fact the cylinder moves so much smoother and is held much more stable than the bridge and trunk floor alone so I can thoroughly recommend it,  IF YOU HAVE A G-BODY ! I can only comment on G-bodies as thats what i have.
> ...


 :uh: well i have never eat shit either............ but i know i wouldn't want to. so just because you have never done something doesn't mean you cant have an opinion on it. 

and my opinion on the bearing idea is that its just not needed. check my stuff homie. i have juiced gangs of cars and none of them squeak, bind, rattle or any of that shit that your bearing idea is supposedly fixing. so why should i buy into this?????????????


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## royalts-car-club (Feb 21, 2008)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Sep 26 2008, 10:36 AM~11706419
> *:uh:  well i have never eat shit either............ but i know i wouldn't want to. so just because you have never done something doesn't mean you cant have an opinion on it.
> 
> and my opinion on the bearing idea is that its just not needed. check my stuff homie. i have juiced gangs of cars and none of them squeak, bind, rattle or any of that shit that your bearing idea is supposedly fixing. so why should i buy into this?????????????
> *



:0


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Aug 28 2008, 09:29 AM~11459402
> *thanks jimmy.  is this the one your talking about?
> 
> 
> ...


Is that just 2" x 2" box tubing and 1/4" plate?


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2008)

> _Originally posted by cashmoneyspeed_@Sep 26 2008, 01:10 PM~11706715
> *Is that just 2" x 2" box tubing and 1/4" plate?
> *


yep, and when i use chains i just put a couple braces in the middle to mount to.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Sep 26 2008, 01:14 PM~11706739
> *yep, and when i use chains i just put a couple braces in the middle to mount to.
> *


Do you install them with the body still on the car? Do you just cut off the stock perches and weld the bridge from the bottom? I like that it's different than C-channel :biggrin:


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2008)

> _Originally posted by cashmoneyspeed_@Sep 26 2008, 01:16 PM~11706759
> *Do you install them with the body still on the car?  Do you just cut off the stock perches and weld the bridge from the bottom?  I like that it's different than C-channel :biggrin:
> *



i have installed with the body on several times.. when i do them with the body on i put a couple small triangle gussets in the corners for extra strength. 

i put one in a 94 fleet and the guy just couldn't stand the fact that it wasn't weld on the top. so i "popped" the floor loose under the rear deck at the factory seam enough to get in there and weld. then just weld and seam sealed the floor back.  looked factory but IMO it was more than needed


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2008)

> _Originally posted by clairfbeeIII_@Sep 26 2008, 09:40 AM~11705024
> *They work good... pics on the way ...
> 
> If your so o.g..put some cement in your trunk and have a nice day...
> ...



you need me to send you a camera homie :cheesy:


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by clairfbeeIII_@Sep 26 2008, 04:39 AM~11704378
> *Why is it not needed?
> Are piston pumps not needed?
> Progressing the sport is a great thing..... Isn't that why most of the people are on LIL?
> ...


 Might as well beat your head against the wall. There are 3 kinds of people looking at this right now... :thumbsup: hell yes thats awesome... :dunno: WTF is that and whats the point... :scrutinize: hmmm..I think I'll try that but talk shit so no one else will think its worth a fuck.....Those of us that know have already given you props...you dont need to prove anything .


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

I've been messing around with these bearing for awhile. They work good on a-arms too. makes the front end alittle quicker


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2008)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Oct 8 2008, 06:34 PM~11815396
> *I've been messing around with these bearing for awhile. They work good on a-arms too. makes the front end alittle quicker
> *


if your referring those comments to me then you need to reread my post.




i am waiting on the "proof" that this actually works. its hard for me to see that this is gonna be worth a shit. out of all the installs i have ever done i have never had these "squeaks and rattles" you guys are talking about. and on a coil over how is it not gonna bind up...... i just dont see it


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

I could care less about squeaks and rattles. My comments are not directed at anyone in paticular. I just know that the bearings work well. In more than just one application. My goals with this type of settup would be more about making a cleaner , more efficient install. The same ol cup or donut laying up on the frame with a cylinder sitting loose in a hole is just to midevil. If hotrodders were into hydros I bet their shit would be the cleanest billet stainless aerospace grade no slop nitro filled crazzy ass installs you ever seen. most of us just have the old school it always works for me attitude. we dont demand a whole lotta change or quality for that matter. I just like to see other that are on the same page as me.


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

Why would you need proof anyway.. Ive seen some of your work (very good by the way) You should be able to figure out how it works and what the benfits would be for yourself. fixing squeaks is the least of it. These are just random bearings that someone has adapted to work in this applicatiuon. Imagine a bearing assembly made specificly for the installation of a cylinder in a car . Thats what something like this could lead up to...a better way and a better product for everyone


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## backbumper79 (Feb 6, 2008)




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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

cool twizler trailing arms homie.....


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Oct 8 2008, 05:22 PM~11815868
> *I just know that the bearings work well. In more than just one application. My goals with this type of settup would be more about making a cleaner , more efficient install. The same ol cup or donut laying up on the frame with a cylinder sitting loose in a hole is just to midevil. *




:thumbsup: that post was like a breath of fresh air !


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## Guest (Oct 9, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Oct 9 2008, 09:39 AM~11820533
> *:thumbsup: that post was like a breath of fresh air !
> *


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## backbumper79 (Feb 6, 2008)

i think the bearing is a great idea not only for the bridge but also for the front pocket. Back to the fucking drawing board DAMNIT


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## backbumper79 (Feb 6, 2008)

oh yea thanks for the props on the t-arms. it took a long time to build and alot of gas but i was sick of doing 2x3 all the time. one off shit only


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## Guest (Oct 9, 2008)

> _Originally posted by backbumper79_@Oct 9 2008, 10:15 AM~11820802
> *i think the bearing is a great idea not only for the bridge but also for the front pocket. Back to the fucking drawing board  DAMNIT
> *


that's all that's being said is "i think its a great idea" but everyone is dancing around the point...........

and the point is. whats the damn point???? cylinders running through bearings lmao WTF?


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

I dont understand what your missing about the whole thing. The bearing is pivot point for the cylinder and spring. Holds the the whole assemlby together in the correct spot and lets the cylinder swing with the suspension. Smoothly, accuratly, effortlessly. I'm just trying to figure out if you didnt understand that or if you just dont believe it works or if you just think its pointless. Sure its pointless. the way we install cyliders works fine. But why not look for a better way ...Look at it this way.... why do you build your bridge out of square tube when a slab of c-channel work s just fine. hell why even put a bridge for that matter the stock perches work fine "old school" right


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## Mark (Nov 9, 2003)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Oct 9 2008, 11:09 PM~11828230
> *I dont understand what your missing about the whole thing. The bearing is pivot point for the cylinder and spring. Holds the the whole assemlby together in the correct spot and lets the cylinder swing with the suspension. Smoothly, accuratly, effortlessly. I'm just trying to figure out if you didnt understand that or if you just dont believe it works or if you just think its pointless. Sure its pointless. the way we install cyliders works fine. But why not look for a better way ...Look at it this way.... why do you build your bridge out of square tube when a slab of c-channel work s just fine. hell why even put a bridge for that matter the stock perches work fine "old school" right
> *


i see both sides. it looks like its just nascaring it a little. what more is it doing for the car that just using some 3" dom?


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## Guest (Oct 10, 2008)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS+Oct 8 2008, 07:28 PM~11815922-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yea, i get the "concept" its just the point of doing it i don't get. and you know me homie.. :cheesy: i just like stirring the shit pot on here............. hell LIL gets kinda boring when we all agree and ride each others nuts 

your right about the bridge though. unless i am putting together a hopper its hard to beat the traditional coil UNDER..... a lot of people seem to be scared away from the coil under though


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

Yeah it can get boring. This is a perfect example. Got me in here arguing someone elses build for them...LOL . Its good to debate some of these things though cuz it makes people push forward with their idea and prove to others and to themselfs that its valid....I never did like coil under... First time I saw a coil over done with hymes joints and square tube. I went home and changed mine and never did coil under again. Not scared of it .Just makes more sense to have it coil over. I would say that any car with a high lift in back would want the bearing settup because the cylinder swings way more . I really like the idea of having the cylinder/spring in a solid mount that allows the proper movement rather than the cylinder just sitting in a hole in the frame even if its only a slight amount of movement. way less wear and tear on the frame and hydraulic components. Plus with it sliding smoothly in that mount you gain alittle more speed in the action of the cylinder cuz its not being forced to tilt it actually wants to tilt.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

not sure how well they'd work in the front spring pockets though as the point was to hold the cylinder steady as it travel up and down and remove any stress as the bearing part will let it change angle freely... 

 

another reason i fitted them is because of UK law, part of our M.O.T that all road driven cars have to pass, states that you can't have 'holes' through the trunk floor in to the trunk space (or anywhere for that matter) Its something to do with exhaust gasses being able to enter the car whilst the car is stationary with the engine running (traffic jam ?) and killing you from fumes ? these bearings eliminate that. Although i'm not sure a car would fail the test (visual) anyways ?


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

It would help help up front as well. The cylinder wants to change angle there too .You just dont realize it cuz its held in there more fimly and the change is slight. This would sav the front seals from wearing out also.


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

unless it is welded or held within the chain bridge-whats the point of sliding them on top?


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

They are held in the bridge..


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## teamrod (Jul 7, 2006)

they just look like they are in the gap between the body/ontop of a bridge thats all.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by teamrod_@Oct 20 2008, 02:00 AM~11915544
> *unless it is welded or held within the chain bridge-whats the point of sliding them on top?
> *


I pressed mine into some plate then put a tack weld on them as i wasnt sure how they'd work out, turns out they need no more than that to stay secure, the plate is welded into the trunk floor to provide some reinforcement but i'm not sure they even need that to be honest !?

next time round i'd press them into the bridge and make sure they located up through tight holes in the trunk for neatness, but i guess it depends on how close your bridge is to the trunk floor ?


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## low90boxchevy (Jul 16, 2006)

any body got any pictures of 4 links in a s10 or blazer


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## merecido (Nov 25, 2010)

can you pm me deminsions for this bridge please..i have a 79 caprice how long do i need to make the tube and how long and wide do 1/4 inch plates need to be if you could draw a lil blue print that be great thanks bro for your time,..


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## 1rana3 (Oct 3, 2008)

Nice


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## D-D-DJ GORDO (Aug 17, 2009)

How I do my bridges.


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## D-D-DJ GORDO (Aug 17, 2009)

A bridge on a customer car I was working on.


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## 1rana3 (Oct 3, 2008)

Do you guys install the bridge underneath the perches or do you guys remove the perches?


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## jandamarra (May 17, 2013)

AndrewH said:


> pretty soon people will realize that raising your upper mounts on the rear end is the same as dropping them on the frame


With respect this is not true, you get different pinion angles. the rate of the pinion shift through the swing is less when you do it at the axle, compared to the frame, since you are making the axle taller, moving the upper arm and lower arm mounting points further apart relative to each other. :thumbsup:

Imagine the theoretical pinion angles if you made them closer together and you'll see my point, LOL horrible thoughts...!! :facepalm: 


Now about the top bridge, coilover top cups are a great idea. The problem i see with 99% of builds is that you guys seem to want to locate the cylinder for some reason, taking no consideration for the spring you have there. you need to locate both ends of the spring, coil under does this fine. not locating the spring at the top, and especially constricting the cylinder into a small hole or one of these bearings even, shifts a whole lot of stress onto the cylinder and seals that would normally be absorbed by the spring, the swaying of the car as you drive for example.(why it squeaks, the car wants to sway on the spring and cant so it rubs) It's really 2 problems combined, constricting the cylinder and not locating the spring, its double stress. locating the spring will relieve a fraction of it but a small hole will still restrict the cylinder. Cutting bigger holes or oval holes will relieve all of the stress but allow the whole assembly to slide front to back or side to side which is just plain stupid YOU NEED TO LOCATE THE SPRING AT BOTH ENDS!!!! i cant stress this enough, and you need a large hole to allow the cylinder to MOVE in all directions when the spring flexes. Just because you had a donut up there with coil under is absolutely no reason to do it with coil over, its completely different, the cylinder is now attached to the axle not the frame! and the car sits on springs that flex, its not that hard to work out the physics involved. the spring is the flex point between the car and axle and the cylinder now moves as part of the axle, the bearing is kind of useless its the same problem, it doesn't fix it and places extra stress on cylinder seals compared to oval holes or big round holes, see the spring flexes during lift into a banana shape, it becomes the pivot point, just like it was in coil under, you now have powerballs as a pivot too, but it doesn't change the springs characteristics to bend. Anyway my point is that as you lift and the top of the cylinder wants to move rearward the pivot point is the spring around the lower cup and thats why it moves like it does, this bearing allows it to pivot at the top, thats not where its pivoting!! its trying to pivot at the bottom of the spring, it needs space to MOVE at the top not to pivot, your restricting this movement putting stress on the cylinder. you could mount the pivot in a front to back slide and that would solve your gaping hole problem if its a problem for you, but it will still have side to side lateral stress on the cylinder especially when 3 wheeling. Ultimately you want to allow it to move on both axises and would require one hell of a complicated system, a hole is the practical answer. Sorry to burst the bubble.

Now, i can see them being useful to replace donuts on coil under setups, and on the front tho  will reduce spring flex the same as a powerball does and less chance of popping a spring out.


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## L-BOOGIE (Jul 19, 2006)

D-D-DJ GORDO said:


> A bridge on a customer car I was working on.


Weld couple pieces of square tubing or angle across these two halves in between the strokes for added support


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