# frame wrapping question



## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

this is realy for all the experienced frame wrappers out there i found this posted on another forum and in a way it makes sence but in others it dont ,please read and feel free to put any opinions up experiences etc 

quote
I know the 'suggested' route is to box the whole chassis, this seems to work for most people on the street but if you speak to anyone with a degree in chassis design and engineering they say dont, their reason being along these lines.

"The car's chassis in stock form is designed to carry the weight of the car in stock form, the funny shape applied to the rails (with a indented corner) is designed to allow some flex and was developed after many years of research (talking about g-bodys here), the rails flex so the body doesnt absorb the flex and bend panels or cause fatigue to the metal structure."

In a lowrider we are adding considerable weight so we have to do something about it right ?

So we box in the rear end and the 'c' notches over the axles to support the weight of the hydros, even the experts agree this is best and then do similar under the bulkhead section which is fair enough

Then we get different opinions, many say dont 'box' the center section with thick (4mm +) steel as it will create bigger stresses on the actual body than the stock chassis a you will remove the flex, it will also cause massive fatigue over time until panels become weak and parts break ?

You must reinforce the pressure points where the hydro's will be applying stress, thats common sense, but that stress needs to be dispersed or it will cause probems, the only way to disperse the stress is by allowing movement.... something to think about ?

another point that has been made that shocked me is that welding small sections of steel to the chassis rails will do more harm than good and will lead to premature failure as you are not actually strengthening the chassis, merey adding weight to it.

If you run longer shaped sections to the chassis you MUST pre-drill it every 6" at least with a reasonable sized hole (6mm) and plug weld the long sections along its length to the original chassis. If you do not do this the old chassis will still tweak and flex along its length inside the welds of the new steel !! and will snap inside the cocoon you've built around it.

I only know what i've seen and have been told, 
There have been cases where cars with no reinforcement have lasted ages with damage and there have been cars with loads of reinforcement that have sustained damage, its a tricky business.

If you have any theories or experiences, post them up.


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## HiLow (Dec 31, 2001)

> _Originally posted by stevie d_@Feb 21 2004, 05:57 PM
> *If you run longer shaped sections to the chassis you MUST pre-drill it every 6" at least with a reasonable sized hole (6mm) and plug weld the long sections along its length to the original chassis. If you do not do this the old chassis will still tweak and flex along its length inside the welds of the new steel !! and will snap inside the cocoon you've built around it.*


 How many people actually do those plug welds? is it really common among frames or rarely done?


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## 66 Riviera (Jan 31, 2004)

u got me thinking twice about wrappin my frame  :dunno: :uh: :ugh: :burn:


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## westrides (Jun 25, 2002)

frame plugs would be ok but i dont think its nessasary when the plates only gonna be 4-5 inches high max by however long


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## skandalouz (Nov 4, 2001)

you could argue that they will add a little strength, but if your completely boxing the frame I think they are a waste of time!


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## impala_631 (Jan 8, 2003)

i always pugged mine, but they were just plateing not wraping


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## liquid_202mo (Dec 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 66 Riviera_@Feb 21 2004, 09:52 PM
> *u got me thinking twice about wrappin my frame  :dunno: :uh: :ugh: :burn:*


 your not the only one.


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

the thing is this, when building a hopper you cant compromise, just like when you build a dragrace car you dont compromise.

theres nothing that will be as strong as a full framewrap and the wheight dosent matter for hopping, a real stiff frame adds inches too, hopping on a flexy frame will cause a loss of inches.

i understand your point and everything you wrote about the og frames is true, they are designed to flex, however when building a lowrider you need the strenght of a wrapped or plated frame to keep the car from warping you allso need the stiffer bodymounts to keep the quarters from buckeling.

i plugwelded some parts of my frame when i wrapped it like the middle of the X for example. that thing someone told you about the frame beeing like a cocoon and that it would break inside if you dont plugweld is bullshit, not true.

i have thought alot about those things myselfe and come to the conclution that a fullwrap is the way to go if you want your car to outstand the monsterous stress from hydraulic suspension...


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

thats how i see it aswell


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## osolowcutty (Jan 12, 2004)

i would listen to badass 64, he sounds like he knows his shit. He's pretty much answered any question i had on hydraulics.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by badass 64_@Feb 22 2004, 03:46 AM
> *you need the strenght of a wrapped or plated frame to keep the car from warping you allso need the stiffer bodymounts to keep the quarters from buckeling.
> 
> *


 its really tricky, 


If you had softer body mounts wouldnt they absorb the stresses bettter, thats what they're there for in the first place ! rather than a firm body mount, designed for race cars which require extra rigidity for high speed handling that apply almost all the stress straight into the body itself which is usually reinforced with a roll cage which funnily enough ties into the body mount sections on a g-body ?

Its the same with pro-stock cars, they take drag cars and put them on a track (in laymens terms) but the forces endured on the drag strip are completely different to the forces endured on the circuit so they add super sloppy body mounts to alleviate the stress and stop the cars dismantling themselves at speed ?

How many people on here have had a street car without reinforcement and its been just fine ? I know of loads in the UK but they havent been big hoppers or anything, just used for clowning around on the streets, and i've seen people post on here that have had no trouble too....

Of course its different for full on hoppers and dancers, you'd have to be a moron not to realise that, but we're talking street cars here.


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## azpitbull (Mar 23, 2002)

hey badass what other parts did you plugweld? 
Also i know about 5or6 people that had street cars without reinforcement and fucked up the frame within 12-18 months "just clownin on the streets".


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

yeah but just clowning' in the streets of the US looks a little different to clowning in the UK... put it this way, there's only been 1 proper hopper built to date and that broke pretty quick, most street cars dont get the wheels of more than 12" due to a number of reasons, the main one being people dont and cant loose ride quality with out strict MOT tests.....


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon+Feb 23 2004, 09:43 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Unity_Jon @ Feb 23 2004, 09:43 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--badass 64_@Feb 22 2004, 03:46 AM
> *you need the strenght of a wrapped or plated frame to keep the car from warping you allso need the stiffer bodymounts to keep the quarters from buckeling.
> 
> *


its really tricky, 


If you had softer body mounts wouldnt they absorb the stresses bettter, thats what they're there for in the first place ! rather than a firm body mount, designed for race cars which require extra rigidity for high speed handling that apply almost all the stress straight into the body itself which is usually reinforced with a roll cage which funnily enough ties into the body mount sections on a g-body ?

Its the same with pro-stock cars, they take drag cars and put them on a track (in laymens terms) but the forces endured on the drag strip are completely different to the forces endured on the circuit so they add super sloppy body mounts to alleviate the stress and stop the cars dismantling themselves at speed ?

How many people on here have had a street car without reinforcement and its been just fine ? I know of loads in the UK but they havent been big hoppers or anything, just used for clowning around on the streets, and i've seen people post on here that have had no trouble too....

Of course its different for full on hoppers and dancers, you'd have to be a moron not to realise that, but we're talking street cars here.[/b][/quote]
in the first place factory cars were not buildt to hop! lol.
no, soft bodymounts makes the quarters buckle and thats a fact.


prostock cars and allmost every other real dragrace cars has GLASSFIBER bodys so theyt dont have to worry about buckeling the quarters and besides that they dont hop.


i've had a "street car" without reinforcements and it hold up just fine FOR A WHILE but then the paint started to chip on the rear quarters just where it meets the roof for example, and i did not even roll it on 3...


i would not ever juice a car without reinforcing the frame, thats the most fun part in building a lowrider anyway so why not just do it?


a rollcage would work but i would not even consider doing that to a lowrider, thats racecar ugly.


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by azpitbull_@Feb 23 2004, 09:11 PM
> *hey badass what other parts did you plugweld?
> Also i know about 5or6 people that had street cars without reinforcement and fucked up the frame within 12-18 months "just clownin on the streets".*


 i plugwelded the plates that goes on top of the front springtowers and the crossmember and allmost everyother plate to as a matter of fact just not as much as those i mentioned...


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## dreday (Sep 29, 2003)

I've had people tell me something simular to that before when they inquire about my rides. They used to tell me, "Welding on the frame only makes it weaker & my reinforcing doesn't do any good..."

Yeah, whatever...tell me that when I hit 40" and don't get a scratch, yet the guy beside me hits 12" w/o reinforcements and now has a cracked frame!!!!

Tell those assholes, until the reserch a ride that has a hydro. suspension, to just shut the fuck up.....


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

Welding on the frame only weakens it if you weld long beads directly to the flat surfaces of the frame. The acual re-enforcment comes from mostly the outer and inner sides being plated. The top and bottom of the frame really only ties the side together. The side should be done first and welded to the frame on the outer edges with about 3" beads spaced about 4"-5" apart.I will usually use thinner metal to plate the top and bottom to save on weight The ends of the metal sections need to butt up against eachother and then be welded. Don't weld the ends to your frame. That wil create a weak spot.


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## azpitbull (Mar 23, 2002)

So you spot weld instead of solid? And you leave no space between plates, is that right?


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Feb 23 2004, 09:37 PM
> *Welding on the frame only weakens it if you weld long beads directly to the flat surfaces of the frame. The acual re-enforcment comes from mostly the outer and inner sides being plated. The top and bottom of the frame really only ties the side together. The side should be done first and welded to the frame on the outer edges with about 3" beads spaced about 4"-5" apart.I will usually use thinner metal to plate the top and bottom to save on weight The ends of the metal sections need to butt up against eachother and then be welded. Don't weld the ends to your frame. That wil create a weak spot.*


at last.... were getting some 'better' information.

everyone - I have never said 'dont reinforce' d'huh.... :uh: 

badass - PROSTOCK is sheet metal not fibreglass by regulation in the UK dont know about US, but would expect it to be the same seeing as they have an international governing body  

and azpitbull, no a 3" weld isnt a 'spot weld' but i reckon you realised that after you re-read what you typed Pitbull.

Serioushydros - interesting what you say about not welding the ends ?  

  



Last edited by Unity_Jon at Feb 24 2004, 02:30 AM


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## azpitbull (Mar 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon+Feb 24 2004, 07:25 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Unity_Jon @ Feb 24 2004, 07:25 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--SERIOUSHYDROS_@Feb 23 2004, 09:37 PM
> *Welding on the frame only weakens it if you weld long beads directly to the flat surfaces of the frame. The acual re-enforcment comes from mostly the outer and inner sides being plated. The top and bottom of the frame really only ties the side together. The side should be done first and welded to the frame on the outer edges with about 3" beads spaced about 4"-5" apart.I will usually use thinner metal to plate the top and bottom to save on weight The ends of the metal sections need to butt up against eachother and then be welded. Don't weld the ends to your frame. That wil create a weak spot.*


at last.... were getting some 'better' information.

everyone - I have never said 'dont reinforce' d'huh.... :uh: 

badass - PROSTOCK is sheet metal not fibreglass by regulation in the UK dont know about US, but would expect it to be the same seeing as they have an international governing body  

and azpitbull, no a 3" weld isnt a 'spot weld' but i reckon you realised that after you re-read what you typed Pitbull.

Serioushydros - interesting what you say about not welding the ends ?  

 [/b][/quote]
yeah i know, i dont know what that method of welding called. I meant he does not put a solid bead but there spave between welds. I thought most people did thesolid? Also some people told me to leave about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch space between side & top plates for the weld ?


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## westrides (Jun 25, 2002)

when people chop truck frames they have to fish plate it and only weld two sides when they put them back together for strengh and to pass inpections


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## SERIOUS (Jun 11, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon+Feb 24 2004, 06:25 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Unity_Jon @ Feb 24 2004, 06:25 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--SERIOUSHYDROS_@Feb 23 2004, 09:37 PM
> *Welding on the frame only weakens it if you weld long beads directly to the flat surfaces of the frame. The acual re-enforcment comes from mostly the outer and inner sides being plated. The top and bottom of the frame really only ties the side together. The side should be done first and welded to the frame on the outer edges with about 3" beads spaced about 4"-5" apart.I will usually use thinner metal to plate the top and bottom to save on weight The ends of the metal sections need to butt up against eachother and then be welded. Don't weld the ends to your frame. That wil create a weak spot.*


at last.... were getting some 'better' information.

everyone - I have never said 'dont reinforce' d'huh.... :uh: 

badass - PROSTOCK is sheet metal not fibreglass by regulation in the UK dont know about US, but would expect it to be the same seeing as they have an international governing body  

and azpitbull, no a 3" weld isnt a 'spot weld' but i reckon you realised that after you re-read what you typed Pitbull.

Serioushydros - interesting what you say about not welding the ends ?  

 [/b][/quote]
Staggering the welds keeps down on the heat. I usualy only weld solid if the frame will be finished for show. Then I weld solid when I place the top and bottom plates. You do want to weld the ends if they come together. You really want to run solid peices. But, sometimes you have to cut and shape the peices. In this case you want to connect those sections where they come together without welding on the frame. The main reason is the cars frame is pretty thin. Even though you cant see it sometimes. You burn throught and weaken that spot and it will probably crack. 
The thing about re-enforcing. Is that its not just about "cacooning "the frame in thick steel. You have to look at what you're doing and strategicly shape the plates and welds. the shape of the plates and how you weld them makes alot of difference. 



Last edited by SERIOUSHYDROS at Feb 25 2004, 01:54 AM


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS_@Feb 24 2004, 09:52 PM
> *
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now thats what i needed to hear.

Thanks loads, lets hope many more people read and understand this, for their own good. :thumbsup:


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## azpitbull (Mar 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by SERIOUSHYDROS+Feb 25 2004, 02:52 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (SERIOUSHYDROS @ Feb 25 2004, 02:52 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
> 
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Staggering the welds keeps down on the heat. I usualy only weld solid if the frame will be finished for show. Then I weld solid when I place the top and bottom plates. You do want to weld the ends if they come together. You really want to run solid peices. But, sometimes you have to cut and shape the peices. In this case you want to connect those sections where they come together without welding on the frame. The main reason is the cars frame is pretty thin. Even though you cant see it sometimes. You burn throught and weaken that spot and it will probably crack. 
 The thing about re-enforcing. Is that its not just about "cacooning "the frame in thick steel. You have to look at what you're doing and strategicly shape the plates and welds. the shape of the plates and how you weld them makes alot of difference.[/b][/quote]
thankz alot, that really helps. I am doin a wrap on my 64 right now. Actually im still making plates & stencils. Im gonna plasma out the plates & bend em, but the welding im payin a pro welder to do. we were gonna leave space between plates but we are gonna have to talk about that now. Again thsankz alot for your help.


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

i allways go with equally wide columns as the plates im welding.

1/4" plates = 1/4" columns between the plates
3/16" plates = 3/16" columns between the plates

and i allso NEVER weld longer than 1" MAX at a time.

sure takes time but it comes out strong as can be...


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by badass 64_@Feb 26 2004, 12:15 AM
> *i allways go with equally wide columns as the plates im welding.
> 
> 1/4" plates = 1/4" columns between the plates
> ...


 but doesnt that create weak spots ? or have i misunderstood.

Serioushydro's idea of butting the plates against each other but not welding verticle to the original chassis, just weld the plates together sounds about right from what i've learnt so far. If you leave a 'coloumn' between the plates you'll have all that extra weight on either side and nothing to support it at the column itself ?

I thought in the pics of your frame wrap it was seam welded 100% all the way and any little gaps filled with weld and smoothed to get it looking really good??

must have seen it wrong :dunno: 

I guess the way around this is to butt the plates up and weld them together although not to the chassis direct and also do 3" welds to the original chassis along the length and leave spaces between, then go back and just weld the plates in between the welds to the chassis to fill the holes so it looks good ?, 

I love it when a plan comes together :biggrin: 

Thanks for all the help. :thumbsup:


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## Lowroder63 (Oct 31, 2003)

> _Originally posted by badass 64_@Feb 26 2004, 01:15 AM
> *i allways go with equally wide columns as the plates im welding.
> 
> 1/4" plates = 1/4" columns between the plates
> ...


 What do you mean by columns? Are you talking about the gap you leave between the two pieces? :dunno:


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## azpitbull (Mar 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by badass 64_@Feb 26 2004, 05:15 AM
> *i allways go with equally wide columns as the plates im welding.
> 
> 1/4" plates = 1/4" columns between the plates
> ...


 thats about the size gaps we were gonna do. but now iam confused. And yeah about 1-2 inch at a time eventually joining em all together in one bead, that how my welder guy said he does all hes work.


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

im talking about when you weld two plates together you should allways make a column the size of the plate thickness by grinding the edges where they meet like this \/ thats it!


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Feb 26 2004, 10:39 AM
> *
> 
> I thought in the pics of your frame wrap it was seam welded 100% all the way and any little gaps filled with weld and smoothed to get it looking really good??
> ...


 lol, yes you've seen right, thats exactly how it's done...


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

but i only weld 1" at a time...


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## Lowroder63 (Oct 31, 2003)

> _Originally posted by badass 64_@Feb 26 2004, 03:21 PM
> *im talking about when you weld two plates together you should allways make a column the size of the plate thickness by grinding the edges where they meet like this \/ thats it!*


 That's what i thought you meant, just wanted to make sure beacause i never heard of the term "columns" before.

I was always taught that you leave a gap 1 1/2 metal thickness when doing a butt with backing weld to achieve maximum penetration.

Also are you stitch welding or running a continuous bead 1" at a time? Thanks


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Lowroder63+Feb 26 2004, 11:46 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Lowroder63 @ Feb 26 2004, 11:46 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--badass 64_@Feb 26 2004, 03:21 PM
> *im talking about when you weld two plates together you should allways make a column the size of the plate thickness by grinding the edges where they meet like this \/ thats it!*


That's what i thought you meant, just wanted to make sure beacause i never heard of the term "columns" before.

I was always taught that you leave a gap 1 1/2 metal thickness when doing a butt with backing weld to achieve maximum penetration.

Also are you stitch welding or running a continuous bead 1" at a time? Thanks [/b][/quote]
sorry if i use odd terms, im from sweden you know! lol!
i allways spread out the heat by welding in a symetric pattern, 
1" beads at a time over the plate im welding till it's all done.


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## Lowroder63 (Oct 31, 2003)

> _Originally posted by badass 64+Feb 27 2004, 01:22 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (badass 64 @ Feb 27 2004, 01:22 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
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sorry if i use odd terms, im from sweden you know! lol!
i allways spread out the heat by welding in a symetric pattern, 
1" beads at a time over the plate im welding till it's all done.[/b][/quote]
lol, not a problem. I seen your frame wrap pics, and i just wanted say that you do AWESOME work!

I just have one more question. What do you use to bend the plates? Are you using a porta-power, or a home made bender, or something similar? Thanks


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

the longer the piece of metal is the easier it is to bend  

for 1/4 you should be able to clamp it in place and use additional clamps to push the metal into shape around the main contours, if you have holes pre drilled for plug welds then as the clamp is tightend and the area around the first hole is flush, plug weld it, the tighten the clamp more until the area around the second hole is flush and so on, try to use 3 or more clamps one before the plug weld hole, one level and one after, that way you know the metal is a fluch as it can be, after the weld move the rear TWO forward to the next area.


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## Lowroder63 (Oct 31, 2003)

Cool, thanks.


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## azpitbull (Mar 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by badass 64_@Feb 26 2004, 07:21 PM
> *im talking about when you weld two plates together you should allways make a column the size of the plate thickness by grinding the edges where they meet like this \/ thats it!*


 Do you use the same method to weld top and side plates together or something else? thanks


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## knokbumpa14 (Apr 7, 2002)

> _Originally posted by azpitbull+Feb 24 2004, 04:42 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (azpitbull @ Feb 24 2004, 04:42 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
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yeah i know, i dont know what that method of welding called. I meant he does not put a solid bead but there spave between welds. I thought most people did thesolid? Also some people told me to leave about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch space between side & top plates for the weld ?[/b][/quote]
i think its called stitch welding, but what do u guys think would need reinforced on an s-10 with a 24 volt 2 pump system?


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by azpitbull+Feb 27 2004, 06:02 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (azpitbull @ Feb 27 2004, 06:02 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--badass 64_@Feb 26 2004, 07:21 PM
> *im talking about when you weld two plates together you should allways make a column the size of the plate thickness by grinding the edges where they meet like this \/ thats it!*


Do you use the same method to weld top and side plates together or something else? thanks[/b][/quote]
no when you weld top and side plates together you just make sure they're not ALL together cuz the weld needs to penetrate the og frame too. 



Last edited by badass 64 at Mar 1 2004, 08:21 AM


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Lowroder63+Feb 27 2004, 10:13 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Lowroder63 @ Feb 27 2004, 10:13 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
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lol, not a problem. I seen your frame wrap pics, and i just wanted say that you do AWESOME work!

I just have one more question. What do you use to bend the plates? Are you using a porta-power, or a home made bender, or something similar? Thanks [/b][/quote]
i use wise clamps and a 5 kilo hammer...
i pre bend all the plates before it goes on the frame (NO HEAT), then i knock it in place while spotwelding them to the og frame.


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by knokbumpa14+Feb 27 2004, 06:26 PM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (knokbumpa14 @ Feb 27 2004, 06:26 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
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i think its called stitch welding, but what do u guys think would need reinforced on an s-10 with a 24 volt 2 pump system?[/b][/quote]
not sure what the s-10 frames look like but with a small setup like that you'll only need like 4 batts and 24 volts on 2 pumps is not fast at all so you wont have to do much...


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## azpitbull (Mar 23, 2002)

> _Originally posted by badass 64+Mar 1 2004, 05:20 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (badass 64 @ Mar 1 2004, 05:20 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
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no when you weld top and side plates together you just make sure they're not ALL together cuz the weld needs to penetrate the og frame too.[/b][/quote]
sounds right to me. THANKS ALOT for your help dude. can always count on badass.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

isnt an s10 frame the same as a g-body frame ? or is it just the components that are the same ?? :dunno:


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## westrides (Jun 25, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Mar 2 2004, 02:08 AM
> *isnt an s10 frame the same as a g-body frame ? or is it just the components that are the same ?? :dunno:*


 same front suspension


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by azpitbull+Mar 2 2004, 03:56 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (azpitbull @ Mar 2 2004, 03:56 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>
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sounds right to me. THANKS ALOT for your help dude. can always count on badass.[/b][/quote]
no problem bro, glad to help out...


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## Joost.... (Jul 15, 2002)

ttt :angry: :biggrin:


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## ALN (May 6, 2004)

Anybody recommend a *credible* Houston frame wrapper? The only decent one Ive heard of is Shorty. But when I ask for a ph #/address or any contact info everybody shuts up. Plus hes supposed to charge big $

Anybody else out there? 

:dunno:


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## carvr2 (Aug 23, 2003)

what about welding tubing between the frame rails. that helps right? :biggrin:


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by carvr2_@Jun 21 2004, 02:47 AM
> *what about welding tubing between the frame rails. that helps right? :biggrin:*


 Yup...


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

the all time best option by a long shot is to construct a tube frame chassis that sits tight within the original 'c' channel, that would be some awesome frame strength and lightweight too. it can be done, i even considered it but dont have the resourses in my mums garage LOL....


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## carvr2 (Aug 23, 2003)

If you had a mazda b 2000 with that cheap boxed frame. you need to wrap the whole thing . for steet and tricks. Or should i wrap most of it and run a tube frame to fix up most of the front end and most of the cab area? all the mazdas iv'e ever worked on the frames sucked and usually break right in back of the cab.


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## viznic (May 17, 2003)

I don't have any reinforcements but if I crack/warp my frame how hard would it be to just go to a junk yard and get a good g-body frame and slap that biotch on??? :biggrin:


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## carvr2 (Aug 23, 2003)

got to the junkyard any way and get a good frame 4 100 bucks and reinforce it. the put that bitch on when its ready


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## Fifth Avenue (Jun 20, 2004)

so would recommend me wrapping my frame? got a 1984 chrysler fifth avenue. how much does wraping cost?


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by viznic_@Jun 28 2004, 02:25 AM
> *I don't have any reinforcements but if I crack/warp my frame how hard would it be to just go to a junk yard and get a good g-body frame and slap that biotch on??? :biggrin:*


 Not hard at all, it requires alot of work to switch a frame and it might take a while thats all... Good idea to get a "new" frame and wrap it then just switch it out.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

> _Originally posted by viznic_@Jun 27 2004, 06:25 PM
> *I don't have any reinforcements but if I crack/warp my frame how hard would it be to just go to a junk yard and get a good g-body frame and slap that biotch on??? :biggrin:*


 its damn near impossible unless you live in the USA.. LOL


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## viznic (May 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon+Jun 28 2004, 01:11 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Unity_Jon @ Jun 28 2004, 01:11 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--viznic_@Jun 27 2004, 06:25 PM
> *I don't have any reinforcements but if I crack/warp my frame how hard would it be to just go to a junk yard and get a good g-body frame and slap that biotch on??? :biggrin:*


its damn near impossible unless you live in the USA.. LOL [/b][/quote]
Born and raised USA all the way homie :thumbsup: USA-4-LIFE :worship: g-body frames are a dime a dozen here :biggrin: Great advice from carvr2 :thumbsup: I'm prolly gonna ride this frame out long as I can, but meanwhile git me a junk yard frame and take my time and reinforce it right


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon+Jun 28 2004, 09:11 AM--></span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>*QUOTE* (Unity_Jon @ Jun 28 2004, 09:11 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin--viznic_@Jun 27 2004, 06:25 PM
> *I don't have any reinforcements but if I crack/warp my frame how hard would it be to just go to a junk yard and get a good g-body frame and slap that biotch on??? :biggrin:*


its damn near impossible unless you live in the USA.. LOL [/b][/quote]
...Or Sweden! LOL !
Sweden is the country that has most American cars in the world if you compare it to how many people live here. (Exept the U.S ofcourse) Pretty funny, there's hella G-body frames at our local junkyards here in Stockholm.


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## Unity_Jon (Oct 9, 2002)

Now you tell us... Damn.... any Swedish online breakers ?? could really do with a hook up for some simple interior stuff


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## badass 64 (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Unity_Jon_@Jun 29 2004, 10:00 AM
> *Now you tell us... Damn.... any Swedish online breakers ?? could really do with a hook up for some simple interior stuff*


 I'll look into it, I know of one good link right now but I think it's in swedish only? http://www.usabil.nu


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## ltc90rdr (May 16, 2014)

Sorry, can someone show some pictures to strengthen the framework for a Lincoln town car???
I want to do street lowrider, but I need hopping 20-30"
sorry 4 my english


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## David Windon (May 22, 2015)

Look up stress points to enforce in the forum or Google. ..... Lowrider hydraulics frame wrap..


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## David Windon (May 22, 2015)

If you want to buy a kit try ryders or empire.


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## Rez Dog 406 (Sep 26, 2004)

PM sent


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## Essay (Feb 12, 2013)

OOn a 91 lincoln, do I need a full or partial wrap? Not gonna do a lot of hopping.


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## MOLIFECAM713 (Feb 7, 2008)

Im no expert but if your doing ANY hopping do a fullwrap


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