# Help me with PRIMERS. POLY vs. EPOXY vs. URETHANE



## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

I need some help concerning what primer to buy.

ive got a 76 impala that was stripped to original paint, then primered with PPG SHOPLINE JP 355.

The description for the primer is

*2.1 VOC Multi-Purpose Primer* ( *JP355* )
JP355 is a fast-drying, two-component gray multi-purpose 2.1 VOC primer which may be used as a primer surfacer or as a wet-on-wet sealer when integrated with clearcoat.


Now after blocking for the first time, Im left with spots of polyester glazing putty, OG paint, PPG primer and various spots of bare metal.

I want to hit the whole car with some polyester primer, most likely featherfill, and get it all STRAIGHT. 
I know that the polyprimers not good over bare metal.

*What are my options?*
Should I spot prime my putty and bare metal with PPG, wait 20 minutes and then shoot each panel with the polyprimer, block out, then shot some more PPG over it before paint?
or
Should i just primer the whole panel with polyprimer, block, then shoot some PPG over it before paint?
or 
Should i spot prime with PPG, wait 20 minutes, shoot polyprimer, block, then just topcoat the poly?

Can i just wait for the primer to flash before putting on the featherfill or do i have to wait and resand?

How long can i trust the PPG under polyprimer before i get rust forming? This is all done in my yard(San Diego, about 2 miles from the beach) 

should i use EPOXY instead of the PPG from here on out?

Should i just scrap the polyprimer idea because im working outside?

what would you do?

Thanks, i just finished my can of PPG so its time for me to hit the store soon. want to know what the best course of action is.


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## chef (Apr 18, 2009)

Well I would use 2k high build primer then block agian , wet sand 600, sealer , paint , clear , cut& buff


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## texas12064 (Dec 6, 2011)

^^^^^^^^^^ what he said. For any bare metal before you prime with 2k hit it with some etch primer. Dupli-color has it in a can and it works damn good. Epoxy primers are designed to go over bare metal without etch primer but I never just prime over bare metal.


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## slo (Jan 12, 2004)

high build and block x2- 3 times minimal and youre set


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## LostInSanPedro (Nov 13, 2009)

Thanks for giving me advice. I went to school for collision so all this rust inhibitor metal prep restoration stuff wasn't covered much

In other words,

get a can of etch primer
Spot my bare metal
Shoot high build and scrap the poly?

Anybody have experience with the shopline primer surfacer I mentioned in the original post?
Anybody use the kustom shop iso free high build?they're local to me
If that doesn't build enough, what 2k do you guys recommend for high build?


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## Hoss805 (Mar 11, 2005)

it all comes down to what your trying to do, if the body has imperfections, best bet it to apply a few good coats of polyester over the filler/putty then block that out with 80-150 depending on how much work it needs, if you block with 150, follow with 2-3 coats of 2k and wetsand that with 400, if you block with 80, reprime with polyester, block with 150 and then 2k...


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## sand1 (Jul 14, 2008)

texas12064 said:


> ^^^^^^^^^^ what he said. For any bare metal before you prime with 2k hit it with some etch primer. Dupli-color has it in a can and it works damn good. Epoxy primers are designed to go over bare metal without etch primer but I never just prime over bare metal.


upol has a 2k primer that u can apply over baremetal and its like 85 bucks a kit


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