# hydraulic fluid vs motor oil



## big kev (Jun 14, 2011)

why do most people use motor oil iz it price or performance ??


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## DETONATER (Aug 3, 2009)

big kev said:


> why do most people use motor oil iz it price or performance ??


I believe price, Hydraulic creates less foam which would be better for pressure.


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

Hydro is too this i believe


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## Yuhaten63 (Aug 14, 2004)

What about used motor oil? What effect does it to the pumps and cylinders. No no no I don't use used motor oil in my pumps I use Hydraulic fluid I've heard some people use used motor oil


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## MinieMe209 (Apr 18, 2010)

I've heard that if you cough, sneeze, AND burp at the same time you can die!?

Anyone else heard about this before I'm genuinely curious to find out :drama:


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## FunkaholiC (Mar 4, 2012)

MinieMe209 said:


> I've heard that if you cough, sneeze, AND burp at the same time you can die!?
> 
> Anyone else heard about this before I'm genuinely curious to find out :drama:


wow. Such shocking news for me. I better be careful next time I feel like that's going to happen to me. Thanks for the info, I better warn my friends about this danger.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

big kev said:


> why do most people use motor oil iz it price or performance ??


We use non detergent 30 weight oil. Not the same as 5w30 or 10w30 that you use in an engine. I use it because of price, availability, and cold weather performance.


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## BrownAzt3ka (May 4, 2008)

FunkaholiC said:


> wow. Such shocking news for me. I better be careful next time I feel like that's going to happen to me. Thanks for the info, I better warn my friends about this danger.



:bowrofl:


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## AzsMostHated (May 7, 2009)

i use 10 30 valvoline


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

MinieMe209 said:


> I've heard that if you cough, sneeze, AND burp at the same time you can die!?
> 
> Anyone else heard about this before I'm genuinely curious to find out :drama:


Hahah....holy misinformation. That happens only if you poke your eyes simultaniously while coughin, sneezin AND burpin. Some people.


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

U can buy the cheap brand oil ND30 or 10w30 with a lil other mixtures we use in our hoppers


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

DETONATER said:


> I believe price, Hydraulic creates less foam which would be better for pressure.


true.

heres some info to help people decide what to use...


R&O (Rust and Oxidation) is approx a 10 weight oil
AW32 is approx a 10 weight oil 
AW46 is approx a 15 weight oil
AW68 is approx a 20 weight oil

all of the above contain Anti Foam and protect against rust and oxidation.

AW has much better wear resistance. Premium AW has about 3 times the service life as standard AW.


with that said, i still use ND30, lol. Ive been considering a switch, but the large majority of my setups are aircraft and the aircraft pumps i use were designed to run on engine oil and not hydraulic fluid. and with that said, ND30 has excellent Anti Wear, Anti Rust & Oxidation properties and decent enough anti foaming properties, but ND30 does foam up and its thick, really thick.


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## Hannibal Lector (Oct 10, 2006)

Good goin tat been awhile i seen u homie


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## big kev (Jun 14, 2011)

thanx everybody for your input & opinions this iz some good info


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## TORONTO (Mar 11, 2005)

I use a mixture of holy water and virgin blood


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## BIG RED (Dec 6, 2005)

TORONTO said:


> I use a mixture of holy water and virgin blood


Sounds like a winning combination.

I usually have my local Indian cheif do an oil dance in the long house before I place the oil in my tanks.


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## big kev (Jun 14, 2011)

TORONTO said:


> I use a mixture of holy water and virgin blood


where in da hell did you find virgin blood dat shit iz rare az hell


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## CoupeDTS (Nov 10, 2007)

I don't know the properties bar graphs and engineererizes of how fluid flows, but I always use the aw32 cuz its way thinner and I would think it would take less effort to pump thin oil than really thick oil. Imagine trying to pump honey compared to water I guess. I'm sure it can all be measurized which pumps faster and would make ur shit faster and possibly less stress on motors and gears


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

CoupeDTS said:


> I don't know the properties bar graphs and engineererizes of how fluid flows, but I always use the aw32 cuz its way thinner and I would think it would take less effort to pump thin oil than really thick oil. Imagine trying to pump honey compared to water I guess. I'm sure it can all be measurized which pumps faster and would make ur shit faster and possibly less stress on motors and gears


GREAT POINT.


if you take a marz pumphead for example, they basically fit the gears into the housing so tight that they basically "self machine" the housing. if you install a new pumphead and his switches over a weekend, take the tank off the oil is full of shavings, change the oil and you probably wont get have shavings in the oil again (if you do, its nowhere close to that initial break in period). so YES, that AW32 is great for those pumps, because its thin.

the Pesco and even Fenner pumps were manufactured totally different, the Pesco's have approx .0015-.003" diametral clearance between the gears and the housing and are designed for a thicker oil (than ran off the aircrafts engine oil). same with the old fenner pumps, they were manufactured with a specific diametral clearance, so the gears dont fit nowhere near as tight at a marz pump.



and on the subject of water...the earliest "hydraulic" designs actually used water, starting with Archimedes and all the way to the Roman times. the Romans actually had hydraulic presses that used water as fluid with leather and ropes a seals.


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## TORONTO (Mar 11, 2005)

BIG RED said:


> Sounds like a winning combination.
> 
> I usually have my local Indian cheif do an oil dance in the long house before I place the oil in my tanks.


B careful he aint been huffing gas or paint or shit can go real bad!



big kev said:


> where in da hell did you find virgin blood dat shit iz rare az hell


It wasnt easy! I had to trade gypsy tears for it!


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## EMPIRE CUSTOMS (May 29, 2005)

*true hydraulic fluid you would buy at such places as a parker store or something is actually not better as most believe, its better at lower RPM'S /lower pressure ratings,... but horrible under high pressure high viscosity. I wont say what we use, but a great suggestion is to do sample tests, with different types of oils and send em off for an oil analysis. this way you can see undoubtedly what truely works best*:thumbsup:


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## TORONTO (Mar 11, 2005)

EMPIRE CUSTOMS said:


> *true hydraulic fluid you would buy at such places as a parker store or something is actually not better as most believe, its better at lower RPM'S /lower pressure ratings,... but horrible under high pressure high viscosity. I wont say what we use, but a great suggestion is to do sample tests, with different types of oils and send em off for an oil analysis. this way you can see undoubtedly what truely works best*:thumbsup:


Why wouldnt you say what you use? Whats the big secret???


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## 1sick2kacr (May 17, 2010)

cashmoneyspeed said:


> We use non detergent 30 weight oil. Not the same as 5w30 or 10w30 that you use in an engine. I use it because of price, availability, and cold weather performance.


^this is spot on and will come down to personal preference and fyi not all hydraulic fluid is the same either.


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## BOULEVARD (Nov 7, 2002)

THE BEST WE USE ON OUR SET UP IS TRANNY FLUID WITH A 1/2 QT OF SLICK 50 THE JOKER FROM REDS USE TO USE IT HE TOLD ME AND SHOWED ME BACK IN THE 90S


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## CokeZero (Apr 16, 2012)

Good way to eat the seals up ^^^


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## CokeZero (Apr 16, 2012)

While on topic, last I used was this.










Was $55 from pepboys.

Would ND 30 be better than that? Because ill be filling the pumps for my new ride soon


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## I HOPP (Sep 13, 2011)

10 weight synthetic hydro oil


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Wynn, used to make this oil additive, (also for trans and PS), thin, slicker and stuck, almost no foam, and didn't break down under heat or load and some kind of test with a ball bearing coated with the stuff and then dropped into acid. BUT cost $5.00 a pint. Of course you added it to your oil already in the engine. I seen the rep test it in action, amazing stuff.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

ttt


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## TROUBLESOME (Aug 5, 2006)

MAN I THINK EVERYONE IS GOING CRAZY....LOL...SEND SAMPLES FOR TESTING??? SOMEONE ACTS LIKE THEY ARE TRYING TO LAUNCH A SHUTTLE INTO SPACE.....THE CHEAPEST OIL YOU CAN FIND WORKS PERFECT FOR BASIC APPLICATIONS AND FOR HOPPING I/WE AT BMH USE A BLEND OF OIL AND GEAR OIL JUST BECAUSE OF THE TIGHT TOLERANCE ON THE GEARS AFTER RON PUTS HIS MAGIC ON THEM...LOL...TRANNY FLUID WORKS GREAT AND FAST ESPECIALLY IN COLD WEATHER BUT YOU WILL BE CHANGING SEALS EVERY OTHER MONTH!!!


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

TROUBLESOME said:


> MAN I THINK EVERYONE IS GOING CRAZY....LOL...SEND SAMPLES FOR TESTING??? SOMEONE ACTS LIKE THEY ARE TRYING TO LAUNCH A SHUTTLE INTO SPACE.....THE CHEAPEST OIL YOU CAN FIND WORKS PERFECT FOR BASIC APPLICATIONS AND FOR HOPPING I/WE AT BMH USE A BLEND OF OIL AND GEAR OIL JUST BECAUSE OF THE TIGHT TOLERANCE ON THE GEARS AFTER RON PUTS HIS MAGIC ON THEM...LOL...TRANNY FLUID WORKS GREAT AND FAST ESPECIALLY IN COLD WEATHER BUT YOU WILL BE CHANGING SEALS EVERY OTHER MONTH!!!


70's when there was just ford trans fluid and chevy trans fluid, something F and maybe H, we never had a problem with seals.

nowadays there must be at least five different trans fluids. Just maybe those china seals are to blame? --JK-- but maybe.

But then again there was less heat and pressure back then, at least on the street. Then we had guys mixing trans with motor oil. 

I also read someplace cooking oil can work on other applications, but gums things up. I never seen cooking oil foam, it can take the heat, slides easy, but standing up to pressure is a ? Hmm... might be worth testing in a spare pump. I guess if it needed any additive, a little tabasco sause might be helpful.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

Testing oil is known to help an auto tech find out about the condition of the engine and other parts. You look for metals, seals/gaskets, fuel, rust, coolant, etc. I can't see hoppers testing it, but I guess if you needed to know what is breaking down in your system, compared to different oils, then it's a plus and you can then narrow down the different fluids or add additives. If it makes you hop higher and longer, Thats just a visual. I used to clean the bugs off the windshild and the bird crap off the paint before a hop, works wonders.


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## EMPIRE CUSTOMS (May 29, 2005)

*having oil samples done to find out which product is helping your product last longer is plain INTELLIGENT especially on a hopper. viscosity breakdown has everything to do with your gear and power, so why would you not? gear oil, trans, regular oil, all works, shit for that matter beer would work,.. but DOESNT make it right. caring about your equipment enough to educate yourself on what you can do to make it perform better and last longer, is time and money well invested. 

on the other hand if your adding 1500-2500lbs of lead in the trunk, i guess it really doesnt matter, because at that point its not about skill and performance, but more about fulcrum/ pivot*


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## Dylante63 (Sep 4, 2001)

I have been using ND30w for ever, it works great, only thing when hopping for a bit it gets thin.


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

EMPIRE CUSTOMS said:


> *having oil samples done to find out which product is helping your product last longer is plain INTELLIGENT especially on a hopper. viscosity breakdown has everything to do with your gear and power, so why would you not? gear oil, trans, regular oil, all works, shit for that matter beer would work,.. but DOESNT make it right. caring about your equipment enough to educate yourself on what you can do to make it perform better and last longer, is time and money well invested.
> *


Still kinda wondering about having fluid tested for hoppers, I mean, way too many volts, no fluid filters, seems like race cars, good for one race, then tear it down. Don't recall who said they test it, but it would have been nice to know what they were looking for. If they cared about the life span of the product they sell, then they should insist on riders that buy their products to use their fluids or a generic fluid/s off the shelf. I can only think the shop wanted consistent performance with out wear and tear, as a hopper only.


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## EMPIRE CUSTOMS (May 29, 2005)

*
Hydros,... 

I feel alot of guys have just got used to the fact of changing gears every big hop or every other, or just plain often. I dont see the sense in that. maybe because Im getting older lazier and my back hurts all the time, but the last thing I want to do is climb back into a trunk to pull a pump out to change a gear. rather have one last as long as possible. 

but again it still boils down to personal preference. for me id rather spend more on quality oil and work on my pump less. some guys have a ton of weight in the trunk and don't put alot of wear on their gears, and some have alot of weight and do burn gears out constantly. guess that would boil down to how each individual works their equipment.

as far as filters there is quite a few guys out there who actually are running filters on their competition cars. 

and to answer your question on testing I know I stated that we did,.... I did it because I do it annually for my commercial trucks for my other biz. these oil analysis will tell you whats getting more wear, whats breaking down and were your problems can be or are at. you can apply this same methodology to pumpheads. but only if you care. alot of guys dont. they just toss em and get a new one, I would think at the current pricing of almost 200 a gear, folks will start to care about their gears lasting lol. but an oil analysis will tell you what material is protecting your gear best. and its not very expensive*


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## Hydros (Apr 30, 2002)

EMPIRE CUSTOMS said:


> *
> I would think at the current pricing of almost 200 a gear, folks will start to care about their gears lasting lol. but an oil analysis will tell you what material is protecting your gear best. and its not very expensive*


$200. a gear?? I have stuff I bought in 2007 and never used, I hear some motors are worth a bunch too.

Since I put hopping the highest aside and decided on more inches per volts, I really don't need state of the art parts anymore, Just good old state of the art innovations  And to be real, you get 20 inches on 24 volts, you just add more volts. 

Guess I'll open a new thread and find out what is worth what. So... which pump heads are worth $200.00? Like in model numbers or other info?


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

I'm willing to bet the oil from a can of Vienna Sausages would add a fair amount of lubricity.


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

TORONTO said:


> I use a mixture of holy water and virgin blood


I'm sure the virgin blood has far less contaminants than hooker blood. As far as holy water goes....I don't think a pump will run on bullshit.


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## dogbonekustoms (Feb 7, 2012)

I tought bullshit ran everything. Good to know


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## turnerdesignworks (Sep 13, 2011)

valvoline 10w30 with a lil syn gear oil and a dab of prolong will get it done


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## turnerdesignworks (Sep 13, 2011)

I know it says I'm a newbie thats just to this site Ive been doing this since 98' just not big on the computer posting stuff


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## Yogi (Mar 29, 2011)

I use nd30 always have


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## ice64berg (Jan 21, 2002)

non detergent 30w .... detergent will eat up your o-rings and seals


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## big kev (Jun 14, 2011)

ttt


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