# Making Front Control Arms, with Pix



## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

I've been working on these in my spare time. I decided to add disk brakes to my 64 so I started to fab up some arms on my CNC.

These arms are made of 16ga just for mach up. Once the dimensions are all tested I will make them of 1/4" steel.

I plan on having the arms done tomorrow, Unless something comes up, like it always does.

Enjoy.


Here is the first test arm I made. it's been replaced since. I am on version 3.0.









I don't have time to make upper control arms just yet, So I decided to weld and drill.










I put on the new unbreakable ball joint for measurements.










I decided to use my new magnetic drill to make things easier.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Now on to the money shots.










In this picture you can see that I changed the angle of the bottom ball joint to keep the angles better (which it did). I also added .50" to compensate for the ball joint being flipped.

By looking at the picture you can tell that there is now positive camber (as if you were extending the upper control arms).


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## cutty boi (Sep 7, 2007)

looks good :thumbsup:


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

looks like it will be nice.

whats the bottom BJ angle look like when layed out? Where did the positive camber come from?


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

The bottom balljoint is normally at 90*ish when layed out. With the angle I added it points the balljoint in a bit but not much. I'm thinking of increasing the angle even more, so it will have a better angle when locked up. 

I'm trying to get an angle that will keep the ball joint happy through out the suspension travel. It's there, but I want to add just a bit more angle.

I think the positive camber is coming from the balljoint being under the arm now, instead of over like before. That changes the distance between the balljoints.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here's the update.

Here is another thin sheet metal revision.









I made some changes and cut it out of .188.









Here's how the cnc left it.









I assembled it and welded in the tube.









I set the spring inside to be sure everything fit and that the angle is what I wanted.









I think this will be close to the final product. I'm afraid that it might bind. I wont know for sure until I install it and bounce the car around.

I'll know next weekend when I have time again.


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## THA_R_O_C88 (Nov 3, 2007)

LOOKING GOOD :thumbsup:


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

Looking good. I was just curious if the angle change on the lower BJ was moving the bottom of the spindle in a hair.


What kind of machinery is there that could bend metal plates into a funnel/tapered shape? somthing that would suit a spring pocket better than a straight wall pipe?

I guess you could make a plug, mold, whatever the term would be, with the diameter and taper you desire and manually bend the metal around it, cut a seam and weld 'er up. 

I always wanted to do beefy custom pockets in the rear like that..


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Yes, changing the ball joint angle moves the balljoint in. That's why I added .50 in length to the arm. Theoretically the extra length is more than is needed to compensate for the balljoint.

I was thinking about cutting the pipe in half and opening up the top. That would make like a V. I might still do it. I'm going to assemble everything this week and see if anything binds.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

I forgot to mention. This added 2.50 inches of extra spring. I'm also making custom cups. Between the two, I should have gained 3.00-3.50" of extra spring all together! :cheesy:


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## KingsWood (Oct 22, 2004)

nice work!


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## DeeLoc (Feb 15, 2003)

those are some bad ass arms...


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## B Town Fernie (Dec 2, 2005)

how much for some of them arms?


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

I don't know. I haven't really thought about selling them.

I'm about 30%, let me get them about 100% complete and working so I can figure out how long it takes to make them.

I'm also making upper control arms as well.


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## B Town Fernie (Dec 2, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Aug 31 2009, 09:28 AM~14935135
> *I don't know. I haven't really thought about selling them.
> 
> I'm about 30%, let me get them about 100% complete and working so I can figure out how long it takes to make them.
> ...


LMK


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## alex75 (Jan 20, 2005)

nice work


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

i wish i had a cnc machine :biggrin:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> *LMK*


Will do.



> *i wish i had a cnc machine biggrin.gif*


It does make stuff easier. Programing can sometimes take a while.


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## Lee337 (Jan 28, 2005)

Wow.

Impressive!

Nice work man.


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## V'SKUSTOMS (Apr 23, 2007)

> _Originally posted by droppen98_@Aug 31 2009, 01:36 PM~14937884
> *i wish i had a cnc machine :biggrin:
> *


x2 :angry:


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by droppen98_@Aug 31 2009, 03:36 PM~14937884
> *i wish i had a cnc machine :biggrin:
> *


sign me up for one too...


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## weatmaster (Aug 13, 2005)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 1 2009, 05:21 AM~14943056
> *sign me up for one too...
> *


make it 3


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here's an update.

In this picture we tack welded and bolted everything up, but didn't tighten anything. It was just to check clearances. 

We bounced the car around to check for binding and interference. 










In this picture you can see it locked up. It should lock up a bit higher once I make the upper control arm.










This was the point of the build. Both sides have the same amount of coil. You can see the difference from one side to the other. The Passenger side lays on the floor.










Everything worked fine. Now I have to make the internal gussets, box it all in, weld and grind smooth.


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

gonna make em nice and stylish looking? :biggrin:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Sep 3 2009, 09:36 PM~14976627
> *gonna make em nice and stylish looking?  :biggrin:
> *


Nah, I wanted an Industrial/off road look. I can make some styling changes, but this is function over form.

I guess this weekend I'll make both sets and maybe the uppers also.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 3 2009, 10:38 PM~14976649
> *Nah, I wanted an Industrial/off road look. I can make some styling changes, but this is function over form.
> 
> I guess this weekend I'll make both sets and maybe the uppers also.
> *



love the work man..i wish i had a CNC machine..make templates and plate cutting a whole lot nicer and easier...


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 3 2009, 09:40 PM~14976680
> *love the work man..i wish i had a CNC machine..make templates and plate cutting a whole lot nicer and easier...
> *


I planned on making reinforcement plates, making a arms, brackets etc. when I originally got the CNC years ago. 

If you need anything cut, let me know.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 3 2009, 10:43 PM~14976715
> *I planned on making reinforcement plates, making a arms, brackets etc. when I originally got the CNC years ago.
> 
> If you need anything cut, let me know.
> *



what id really like is to find a better way for cutting up A arms...cuz the chop saw when u put pressure on like ur suppose to the blade likes to bend a little making the cut not so straight and u loose about 1/8 of material when u cut...plasma cutter makes it a lot easier...i just need to get some of those smaller sized tips to make a thinner cut...where the hell did u get a CNC machine from lol...


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Plasma should work fine for a arms or maybe a bandsaw.

I got it from Torchemate about 4 years ago. Works great, we run it all day everyday.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 3 2009, 11:25 PM~14977238
> *Plasma should work fine for a arms or maybe a bandsaw.
> 
> I got it from Torchemate about 4 years ago. Works great, we run it all day everyday.
> *



ya what was the price tag on that bad boy...also i was trying to help someone out with the drum to disc conversion for an impala and came across this threat...i definately like how he had cut out the lower balljoint and welded in some pipe and installed a heavy duty balljoint...never did like how the lowers balljoint only bolts to the a arms..

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?s...pic=481045&st=0


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

If you want I can sell you the plates tube all precut. all you have yo do is bend and weld.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 3 2009, 11:42 PM~14977452
> *If you want I can sell you the plates tube all precut. all you have yo do is bend and weld.
> *


hey u gonna cut the dimpled top plate out the upper a arms..give u a lil more clearance between the spring pocket and a arm hitting...not to say that u have the issue now, i was just thinking though cuz i know that is sometimes an issue on g bodies where the bump stop is..and it would probably make for a cleaner look too all one smooth piece


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

The top arms will be 3/8's on the sides and 1/4" on the top. I'm not reusing my stock arms. I am making new ones from scratch. That dimpled plate (If we're on the same page) will be gone. I want to lock up higher.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 4 2009, 12:01 AM~14977654
> *The top arms will be 3/8's on the sides and 1/4" on the top. I'm not reusing my stock arms. I am making new ones from scratch. That dimpled plate (If we're on the same page) will be gone. I want to lock up higher.
> *



ya the dimple i was refering to the was the top of stock a arms thats recessed in...i forgot u were gonna make ur own uppers....


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 3 2009, 11:17 PM~14977144
> *what id really like is to find a better way for cutting up A arms...cuz the chop saw when u put pressure on like ur suppose to the blade likes to bend a little making the cut not so straight and u loose about 1/8 of material when u cut...plasma cutter makes it a lot easier...i just need to get some of those smaller sized tips to make a thinner cut...where the hell did u get a CNC machine from lol...
> *


I tried using a plasma torch for a-arms once. worse mistake I ever made! I use a 1/16" wheel now, makes a small curf and a straight line! I just find the right angle to the bj plate and lay a peice of tape to guide the cut

yeah a CNC would be nice to use. I used to work pulling and labeling parts,and learnt a little about nesting and digitizing,I think it would be an awsome investment if you could find your customers quick enough to start paying for the setup


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Sep 4 2009, 12:31 PM~14981459
> *I tried using a plasma torch for a-arms once. worse mistake I ever made! I use a 1/16" wheel now, makes a small curf and a straight line! I just find the right angle to the bj plate and lay a peice of tape to guide the cut
> 
> yeah a CNC would be nice to use. I used to work pulling and labeling parts,and learnt a little about nesting and digitizing,I think it would be an awsome investment if you could find your customers quick enough to start paying for the setup
> *


I don't like those cut off wheels. They shatter and when they do, it is scary. Always wear a face shield.

Just make a jig that holds everything, but allows you to open the gap. This way you can cut it with anything, all the pieces will remain squared.

It's hard to find work for the CNC machines. We keep ours running all day, but it's for our product. I wouldn't recommend it if you're planning on making bits and pieces for clients. It just wont pay for itself.


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## big pimpin (Nov 22, 2001)

Very nice work!


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 4 2009, 06:11 PM~14982932
> *I don't like those cut off wheels. They shatter and when they do, it is scary. Always wear a face shield.
> 
> Just make a jig that holds everything, but allows you to open the gap. This way you can cut it with anything, all the pieces will remain squared.
> ...


10 years and i have yet to shatter a cuttoff disk :dunno:


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## HitemHard78 (Jun 6, 2007)

:biggrin: BAD ASS HOMIE NICE WORK


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

nice arme


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## B Town Fernie (Dec 2, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 3 2009, 09:42 PM~14977452
> *If you want I can sell you the plates tube all precut. all you have yo do is bend and weld.
> *


PM me a price


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

damn was it hard to get those license plates? i wonder how many people wanted that and you got it... lol


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> *10 years and i have yet to shatter a cuttoff disk dunno.gif*


Usually happens when you flex the disk, drop it, or press to hard. It shouldn't be a problem if you know what you are doing.



> *  nice arme, biggrin.gif BAD ASS HOMIE NICE WORK, Very nice work!,*


Thanks everyone.



> *PM me a price*


Will do, Let me just figure all the ins and outs.

What thickness would you like?



> *damn was it hard to get those license plates? i wonder how many people wanted that and you got it... lol *


Oh I photochopped it lol


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## flaked85 (Mar 19, 2005)

GREAT WORK HOMIE.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

*UPDATE!!!*

I put the tacked welded version to the test. I wanted to see where it would fail. So I bent the hell out of it! lol.

Tomorrow I should have the new arms welded and assembled, Unless I'm hungover!


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 5 2009, 09:44 PM~14992477
> *UPDATE!!!
> 
> I put the tacked welded version to the test. I wanted to see where it would fail. So I bent the hell out of it! lol.
> ...



try boxing the bottom in...if where it failed was cuz of the open bottom


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 5 2009, 09:04 PM~14992606
> *try boxing the bottom in...if where it failed was cuz of the open bottom
> *


I didn't box it in because I WANTED it to fail lol. I wanted to see where it naturally wants to bend. Mission accomplished. I usually use thinner steel or only tack it. This way you can find what's going to go wrong, quick.

Boxing it in will help, but it needs internal gusseting (like I mentioned earlier). It needs to be gusseted like a trophy truck arm. I should have that done tomorrow.


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 5 2009, 10:11 PM~14992656
> *I didn't box it in because I WANTED it to fail lol. I wanted to see where it naturally wants to bend. Mission accomplished. I usually use thinner steel or only tack it. This way you can find what's going to go wrong, quick.
> 
> Boxing it in will help, but it needs internal gusseting (like I mentioned earlier). It needs to be gusseted like a trophy truck arm. I should have that done tomorrow.
> *


so wheres the pics of the failure lol


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 5 2009, 09:17 PM~14992704
> *so wheres the pics of the failure lol
> *


Shhhhhhhhit, you know those never get posted! Plus it wasn't really a failure, They just bent. Not that big of a deal.

Considering they only had about 50 tacks, I think they held up pretty well. I was expecting the cup to break off.

Plus we got kind of excited and killed the batteries. If the guys at work didn't torch & toss them, I'll post pictures.


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## FantasyCustoms (Jun 13, 2006)

You should do the bottoms and double up on the metal


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by FantasyCustoms_@Sep 5 2009, 09:29 PM~14992822
> *You should do the bottoms and double up on the metal
> *


I am doing the bottom. But I can't program the bottom or gussets until the top, sides and pocket is done.


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## FantasyCustoms (Jun 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 5 2009, 09:51 PM~14993019
> *I am doing the bottom. But I can't program the bottom or gussets until the top, sides and pocket is done.
> *


I feel you it just whould prevent you from bending it

If your not setting it up to hop why go thru all the trouble???


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by FantasyCustoms_@Sep 5 2009, 09:55 PM~14993054
> *I feel you it just whould prevent you from bending it
> 
> If your not setting it up to hop why go thru all the trouble???
> *


Why? Just trying to take things to another level. I think we have been cutting and stretching arms long enough.

Plus I want with the caprice spindles and needed to accept the balljoint.


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## DRUID (Oct 31, 2003)

Nice thats some real good work right there. Are you going to reinforce it anymore than just boxing it in?


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by FantasyCustoms_@Sep 5 2009, 11:55 PM~14993054
> *I feel you it just whould prevent you from bending it
> 
> If your not setting it up to hop why go thru all the trouble???
> *


Even on a car that is not built to hop a longer coils has it's benefits. It will make for a smoother ride and prevent coil bind, especially if running a softer coil.

I think the arms are a great idea. Theres nothing better than building from scratch with new material instead of trying to restore old rusted and pitted stock stuff.

Looking very nice man.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by DRUID_@Sep 6 2009, 12:05 AM~14993984
> *Nice thats some real good work right there. Are you going to reinforce it anymore than just boxing it in?
> *


It will have gussets inside. 

Once I have the program set up, I can then make different thicknesses,


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 5 2009, 09:38 PM~14992428
> *Usually happens when you flex the disk, drop it, or press to hard. It shouldn't be a problem if you know what you are doing.
> 
> *



so you just assume I dont know what I'm doing? I see how it is.. :angry: 

I've never shattered one either. But I know someone who has. I've frayed the edges pretty bad, but it was always from putting them in a bind doing something stupid. but yes I always wear a face shield, I know too many one eyed people


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Sep 6 2009, 11:30 AM~14996025
> *so you just assume I dont know what I'm doing? I see how it is..  :angry:
> 
> I've never shattered one either. But I know someone who has. I've frayed the edges pretty bad, but it was always from putting them in a bind doing something stupid. but yes I always wear a face shield, I know too many one eyed people
> *


Not assuming anything (stop being a women and reading into things! :biggrin: ) It's just that we all get in a hurry and make mistakes. It happens to the best of us.

I've seen those disks explode (on chop saws) and those pieces fly like bullets. I use cut off disks here and there, but I try not to.


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 6 2009, 01:34 PM~14996050
> *
> 
> I've seen those disks explode (on chop saws) and those pieces fly like bullets. I use cut off disks here and there, but I try not to.
> *


I've never had a cutoff wheel break but, I did have a grinding wheel shatter and smack me in the face. Needless to say, I went and bought a face shield the next day  
My cousin on the other hand, broke 3 back to back last week making straight cuts :ugh:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Grinding wheel broke? How did that happen?

The guy I get my wheels/disks from says that it's important to not drop them, throw them around, or over work the wheel/disk. Makes sense, I dropped a disk and you could see the stress cracks.


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## FantasyCustoms (Jun 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Sep 6 2009, 11:13 AM~14995930
> *Even on a car that is not built to hop a longer coils has it's benefits. It will make for a smoother ride and prevent coil bind, especially if running a softer coil.
> 
> I think the arms are a great idea. Theres nothing better than building from scratch with new material instead of trying to restore old rusted and pitted stock stuff.
> ...


Well I know that :biggrin: 

I just wanted him to say I want a really soft ride :biggrin:


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 6 2009, 07:30 PM~14998081
> *Grinding wheel broke? How did that happen?
> 
> The guy I get my wheels/disks from says that it's important to not drop them, throw them around, or over work the wheel/disk. Makes sense, I dropped a disk and you could see the stress cracks.
> *


It may have been cracked from the store because I know it wasn't overworked or dropped. It may have just been because it was a cheap wheel :dunno:
I usually buy Dewalt or Hilti and never have a problem with them


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

> _Originally posted by S10lifted_@Sep 7 2009, 02:00 AM~15000898
> *It may have been cracked from the store because I know it wasn't overworked or dropped.  It may have just been because it was a cheap wheel  :dunno:
> I usually buy Dewalt or Hilti and never have a problem with them
> *


im really hard on my tools,i tend to drop my grinders off the workbench regularly,suprised i havent eaten a few cutoffs or grinding disks....but then again i take few seconds to check them out before i use them.


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## FantasyCustoms (Jun 13, 2006)

> _Originally posted by NY-BOSSMAN_@Sep 7 2009, 12:52 PM~15004414
> *im really hard on my tools,i tend to drop my grinders off the workbench regularly,suprised i havent eaten a few cutoffs or grinding disks....but then again i take few seconds to check them out before i use them.
> *


I drop and crack and break them all the time I got a box of broken grinders I keep for parts


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

those arms look damn good man. 
definatley some time and effort here. 
Nice work.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Thanks guys, Here's another update.

I worked kind of late to get some progress on these.

I still need to cap the ends, weld in one more gusset that I left tacked, and smooth it all out.


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## west coast ridaz (Nov 1, 2004)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 7 2009, 10:13 PM~15010728
> *Thanks guys, Here's another update.
> 
> I worked kind of late to get some progress on these.
> ...


what u going to do to the front where balljoint goes what u think it cost to build these


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## excalibur (Mar 8, 2006)

incredable work man. I love that you "found the weak spot" on purpose to get it right in the end. thats real deal R&D right there. thats like some real engenering shit right there.

disclaimer- I know I misspelled about 5 words here.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by west coast ridaz_@Sep 7 2009, 10:30 PM~15010887
> *what u going to do to the front where balljoint goes what u think it cost to build these
> *


I am going to cap it. It has a funky angle that I need to figure out. It will hit the rotor if the angle is off. I have to leave the bottom section open so that I can press the ball joint in and out.

I don't know. They are really time consuming. I will build another set to see how long it takes.

If anything I'll just sell the plates pre cut and people can assemble them.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by excalibur_@Sep 7 2009, 10:44 PM~15011005
> *
> disclaimer- I know I misspelled about 5 words here.
> *


Don't worry, I'm dyslexic. lol

Thanks.


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## S10lifted (Nov 10, 2002)

> _Originally posted by NY-BOSSMAN+Sep 7 2009, 02:52 PM~15004414-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looking good bro....now finish them and move onto the uppers


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## singlepumpking (Mar 19, 2009)

very nice work!


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

those look pretty burly!


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## muffin_man (Oct 25, 2006)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Thanks guys.

I have the arms done. I yanked them off the car for the seventh time now. Tomorrow I'll paint them and reinstall one final time.

I'm working on a 1/4" version of these lower control arms already.

If I have time I will try to make the upper arms this weekend.

Here's a teaser shot.


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## cashmoneyspeed (Jun 21, 2005)

Good stuff, great build topic, can't wait to see what you do with the uppers and rest of the car. :biggrin:


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## 1229 (Sep 16, 2002)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 8 2009, 01:13 AM~15010728
> *Thanks guys, Here's another update.
> 
> I worked kind of late to get some progress on these.
> ...


had a question...

have you thought about making the 2 sides out of one piece and bending it in the middle, by making a jig or even using a piece of pipe in the right diameter and bending it under the ball jount mount??


just thinking one solid piece would be easier to manipulate and it would be seamless.


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

thats a good idea.
how much room is there at that point i wonder. because the ball joint has to go in from the bottom right?
and it cant stick out much further between the 2 arrows because the rotor will be there..
no?


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

wow im dumb. 
i just understood what you said. lol.
that would certainly look cleaner


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by socapots_@Sep 11 2009, 03:41 PM~15053875
> *and it cant stick out much further between the 2 arrows because the rotor will be there..
> no?
> *


Exactly. I made V1 (Version1) in a similar fashion. However, it would rub on the rotor when lowered. If you read one of my posts you will see it says that it is a funky angle and has to be done by hand.

I wanted to make it out of ONE PIECE, but it was to difficult to get the bushing holes to line up. TWO PIECES made it easier for me to slide a pipe in for adjustment.

Plus it would be difficult to use the same jig for different thicknesses (.188, .250, .375 or even .500).

It's a good idea though, just didn't pan out on this set. Maybe after I make a few sets I'll figure out a way to pull it off.


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## Paul K (Sep 24, 2005)




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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here are some pictures of the arms painted.

















Here are some pictures of the arm installed.

















I hope to have it all done by Tuesday.


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

Very nice


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## 79cutsupreme (Aug 1, 2005)

Good work...keep it up


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

that looks pretty freakkin good man.
any pics of where the lip infront of the balljoint gets close to the rotor??


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## KDM66 (Jul 25, 2009)

I HAVE A QUESTION I SEE YOU HAVE DISK BRAKES ON YOUR IMPALA I HAVE A 63 MOST AFTER MARKET BRAKES SAY YOU CANT PUT 13 IN RIMS ON MINIUM IS 15 WHICH KIT ARE YOU USING ON YOURS OR WHAT CAR DID YOU USE THE ROTORS AND CALIPERS FROM AND NICE WORK BRO


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## cutty boi (Sep 7, 2007)

i used 80s model caprice rotors calipers and spindols


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by KDM66_@Sep 14 2009, 08:35 PM~15082580
> *I HAVE A QUESTION I SEE YOU HAVE DISK BRAKES  ON YOUR IMPALA I HAVE A 63 MOST AFTER MARKET BRAKES SAY  YOU CANT PUT 13 IN RIMS  ON MINIUM IS 15 WHICH KIT ARE YOU USING ON YOURS OR WHAT  CAR DID YOU USE THE ROTORS AND CALIPERS FROM  AND NICE WORK BRO
> *



Arms: using my custom lower arms arms (and soon uppers also)
Spindle: 78-87 caprice 11" rotor
Rotor: 78-87 caprice 11" rotor
Brake caliper: 78-87 caprice 11" rotor
Brake line: 78-87
Tie rods and rod connector: 81-87 g-body


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## OneStopCustoms (Oct 9, 2002)

sweet arms :biggrin:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

I forgot to mention, the car is done and driving. I'll post pictures later.


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

looken good :biggrin:


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## Punch (Nov 19, 2008)

That's what I like! Someone thinkin up new stuff! Good Job!! Alot of hard work there.


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## MB671 (Aug 26, 2009)

very nice


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Punch_@Sep 14 2009, 09:41 PM~15083645
> *That's what I like! Someone thinkin up new stuff! Good Job!! Alot of hard work there.
> *


Thank you, thank you. 

Next week I start the upper control arms!


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## Ahhwataday (Jun 7, 2009)

Man thats clean, I like that, nice work man


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

> _Originally posted by KDM66+Sep 14 2009, 10:35 PM~15082580-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


good answer.. lol.. :biggrin:


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

hows it stop with the caprice rotors on there?


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by HARDLUCK88_@Sep 15 2009, 09:18 PM~15092347
> *hows it stop with the caprice rotors on there?
> *


It's a big improvement for the money. We did a similar brake set up on my boys old 62 that was fully wrapped with a huge set up and it even stopped nice.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by HARDLUCK88_@Sep 15 2009, 07:18 PM~15092347
> *hows it stop with the caprice rotors on there?
> *


Stops much better. Night and day over the factory drums. I imagine once I add the power booster it will be even better.

Definitely worth the effort.


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 16 2009, 12:36 AM~15095042
> *Stops much better. Night and day over the factory drums. I imagine once I add the power booster it will be even better.
> 
> Definitely worth the effort.
> *


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

I guess people want to know what I paid for all this.

Arms: using my custom lower arms (and soon uppers also) = I made.
Spindle: 78-87 caprice 11" rotor = $80 pair (junkyard)
Rotor: 78-87 caprice 11" rotor = $40 pair (new)
Brake caliper: 78-87 caprice 11" rotor = $40 pair (new)
Bearings & seals, 78-87 caprice =$30 (new)
Brake line: 78-87 caprice = $20 pair (new)
Brake pads: 78-87 caprice = $70 (new, ceramic)
Tie rods and rod connector: 81-87 g-body = $60 all four (new)
Balljoints, 78-87 caprice, unbreakable upper & lower = $70 all four (new)
Bushings, bottom, 64 impala = $9 (new)

Totalish $419.00!!! Damn!!! Since I've been slowly buying parts over 3 months, I didn't even noticed that shit nickle and dimeing me to death.

Keep in mind these prices are off the top of my head. I can look up invoices but that will take forever.

You can SAVE A TON OF MONEY by just finding used parts all at once. You pretty much need everything from the spindle out. I went new because my local junkyards are expensive, I might as well buy new.


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## parts7790 (Aug 11, 2006)

Nice Work!


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

I just finished rebuilding all the cylinders. It's nice to be able to leave the car locked up and it remains locked up (well so far).

I got tired of trying to jack the car up from the back. So we whipped this up real quick.

Later I plan on making an adjustable version so that I can use it on other cars. Works well, used scrap and took about 15- 20 minutes.


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

damn i wish i had a fork lift


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by HARDLUCK88_@Sep 18 2009, 10:03 AM~15118402
> *damn i wish i had a fork lift
> *


Maaaaaaaan they are so cheap right now. You could probably find a really old one (that works) for $500 bucks.


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 18 2009, 12:06 PM~15118425
> *Maaaaaaaan they are so cheap right now. You could probably find a really old one (that works) for $500 bucks.
> *


wish i had $$ and a place to put it


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by HARDLUCK88_@Sep 18 2009, 10:30 AM~15118625
> *wish i had $$ and a place to put it
> *


Oh, yea the space and the concrete is important. We cracked all the asphalt with this old forklift. We had to replace it with concrete.

It's the shop forklift, so it's not like I have it at home. Would be sweet having one at home though. lol


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## Punch (Nov 19, 2008)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Sep 18 2009, 12:08 PM~15118947
> *Oh, yea the space and the concrete is important. We cracked all the asphalt with this old forklift. We had to replace it with concrete.
> 
> It's the shop forklift, so it's not like I have it at home. Would be sweet having one at home though. lol
> *


What's up Man, what's crackin? We got a big show here in town on Sunday, wish me luck.lol (jus an old car show not a lowrider show)


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Good luck.

I went to a rockabilly show.


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## Punch (Nov 19, 2008)

Nice bro, We had a good oldies show around 200 classics, I won a plaque for "Best Choice awards" Last we cruised the Blvd.


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

> Nice bro, We had a good oldies show around 200 classics, I won a plaque for "Best Choice awards" Last we cruised the Blvd.


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## Punch (Nov 19, 2008)

Lowriding Is alive and well in our lil city.(77 Monte Hydros by Punchline Customs)








You all gotta come join us sometimes 








Farmington, New Mexico








Impals(I know my Homie needs his mouldings.lol) he just got it painted but got the itch to cruise.lol


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Punch_@Sep 21 2009, 08:33 AM~15140064
> *Nice bro, We had a good oldies show around 200 classics, I won a plaque for "Best Choice awards" Last we cruised the Blvd.
> 
> 
> ...


That's your vert?


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## Punch (Nov 19, 2008)

> _Originally posted by Punch_@Sep 21 2009, 09:45 AM~15140169
> *Lowriding Is alive and well in our lil city.(77 Monte Hydros by Punchline Customs)
> 
> 
> ...


YEAH, THANKS TO LAY IT LOW, i BOUGHT IT ON HERE!!!

LAYIT LOW :thumbsup:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

*UPDATE*

The arms work great! The brakes work great!

Now time for the UPPER ARMS!


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## 64choco (Nov 7, 2005)

ok so what happen to the camber did you get fix ?


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 64choco_@Sep 29 2009, 10:14 PM~15224982
> * ok so what happen to the camber did you get fix ?
> *


Yea, It seemed all the positive camber was coming from everything being loose. I tightened everything up and it went away. I pulled all the shims and I got a little positive camber. I say just enough to keep everything looking good.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

whoops, wrong post.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Come on now I thought you were going to have some pics of the new uppers. You tease. :cheesy:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Nov 1 2009, 12:15 PM~15528709
> *Come on now I thought you were going to have some pics of the new uppers. You tease. :cheesy:
> *


I thought I was posting in the other thread. lol

I'll have those up soon. I'm finishing up other projects right now. 

"Not enough time, and nowhere enough money" lol


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## swangin68 (Nov 15, 2006)

let see some pics of it locked up,,, side and front view?


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## THE ONE (May 12, 2005)

any new updates


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by THE ONE_@Mar 3 2010, 05:19 AM~16781636
> *any new updates
> *


No, not really. They are holding up fine. I'm making some uppers right now. I already made one side, now it's time to make a mirror image for the other side.


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## THE ONE (May 12, 2005)

From the pics. it looks like you got toys (equipment wise.). (no ****)
what welder you using< I got a miller 251. It's alot hotter than my lincoln was. I had a lincoln pro cut 55 plasma. but sold it the lead was to expensive to replace now lookin at a hyertherm..


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Thanks, We do have a lot of tools that make the job easier, if not possible in some cases. We just picked up a CNC lathe, I'm probably make some bushing on it, maybe some jimmy joints.

I use a Miller 251 to weld and a Spectrum 1000 plasma to cut. We have torches and what not, but the plasma always seems to be the easiest one to use and cleanest.


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