# Sticky  Frequently Asked Questions - Hydraulics Tech



## LayItLow

The old FAQ (which most people probably don't find in the tech section) definitely needs to be added to so feel free to reply to this topic and with your suggestions, additions, links to other helpful topics, etc.

We'll let this topic run for awhile and then when there is enough good information I'll get it compiled in a clean format and pinned back to the top of this forum.

--------

Q. The motor spins but the car doesn't go up. 
A. The oil level in the tank may be too low. You might have a broken key. There may be a bad check valve or dump valve. The motor could be spinning the wrong direction. The pump head could be blown, broken or have a leaky or cracked seal. The pump head seal to block could be leaking or the pump head is not tight enough on the block. If you have a pressure relief valve it could be set for too low of a pressure. 

Q. The car goes up but will not come back down. 
A. Make sure the slow down valves are not closed all the way. The dumps may be pressure locked - relieve the pressure by temporarily loosening the hose fitting and then, next time, don't lay on the switch so long or buy some high quality dumps to prevent future pressure locks. 

Q. One side of the car goes up slower than the other.
A. Check your fluid levels and bleed the hoses. It's also possible a bent cylinder or something else is causing more resistance. If your pumps are hooked to separate banks of batteries, check that all batteries are fully charged. 

Q. How do you bleed the hoses? 
A. First raise the car so there is pressure in all your hoses. You bleed one hose at a time and can start with any cylinder, it doesn't matter. Get a rag and cup it around the cylinder so oil wont get every where. With a wrench, SLOWLY start to unloosen the hose where it connects to the cylinder fitting. When fluid starts to come out, let it bleed until you see no more air bubbles in it or the milky color is gone. Then tighten it back up. Repeat at each cylinder. 

Q. A solenoid sticks open and the motor keeps running or burns out. 
A. Low batteries! Improperly grounded solenoids. Too many or not enough solenoids (a good rule of thumb is 3 high quality 12v solenoids per pump). Motor armature could be shorting internally, brush plate insulators could be burned up and melted, the commutor could be wrapped around shorting the motor and drawing excessive amps causing the solenoids to burn out prematurely. 

Q. I hear a grinding noise while the car is lifting.
A. Low oil level. With the car fully dumped, fill the tank so the oil level is 1" below the filler hole. 

Q. What type of oil should I use in my pumps?
A. Hydraulic Oil 68 or 10W30 non-detergent motor oil. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is not recommended but can be used to speed things up, however, be prepared for more leaks and bad seals in the future. 

Q. What's a frame wrap and how is it done?
A. The short and sweet answer is steel (usually 3/16" or 1/4" thick) simply welded along some or all sides of the vehicles frame. Either the entire frame is wrapped or just some of the problem areas, such as the cross member and the rear humps over the axle. It is done with an experienced welder that knows what he is doing! 

Q. How do you three wheel and why can't I get it to? 
A. Fully raise all four cylinders and then dump a rear corner. If the car is capable of a three wheel then the front corner opposite of the dumped rear corner will come off the ground. The more weight in the dumped corner, the better. This is one reason you'll usually see the batteries stored in the rear corners of the trunk. If you can't do a standing three, you may be able to do a rolling three: While driving (in a safe, legal and off-road area, of course) and with the car fully raised drop a rear corner and at the same time do a sharp turn to the opposite direction of the corner you dropped. For example, start turning to the left and drop the right rear corner - the front left wheel should come off the ground. If you've tried all this and you still can't three wheel, you'll probably need taller rear cylinders, more weight, more pumps (at least one to each rear cylinder is recommended for 3 wheeling), or even a different car - the balance and design of yours may not be able to three wheel.


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## PLANETGETLOW

Q. Can I 3 wheel with 2 Pumps

A. You can 3 wheel with 2 Pumps, however it highly depends on different scenarios.
The type of car and weight distribution
The amount of weight in your trunk {_batteries/pumps_}
The size cylinders you are running {_should be 12's or higher in the rear_}
How many dumps you are running
Your switch configuration
Chain bridged or not
Most X-Frame Impalas can 3 wheel very easily with the right weight in the trunk, typically 6 batteries or more, 3 in each bank. Some cars require more/less weight, a 3 or 4 link suspension, and most importantly a re-enforced frame.


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## PLANETGETLOW

Q. What is a "Wishbone" or 3-Link Suspension

A. A "Wishbone" suspension replaces the panhard bar on older Impalas along with 4 link suspensions on many other vehicles. The 3-link or otherwise known as the "Wishbone" allows the car to lift and lay in a straight/vertical plane keeping the geometry of the drive-line in proper alignment with the transmission.

This image depicts measurements on how to construct your own wishbone for use on a 1964 Impala.










This image displays how the drive-shaft is kept at a constant angle while the car is raised all of the way up with 12" cylinders


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## look_what_i_can_do

Q. Should i put Hydraulics or Airbagson my car..

A. Its up to you.. Your preference.. THey both have their up sides and their down sides.. No one can make a decision that you will be compltely happy with but you...


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## BlueBerry

We need some links to extending arms & what they do & how balljoint movements & such are cured........ Something about appropriate extensions per vehicle - A basic guide line such as :

3/4'' - 1'' (Most common for daily street driven cars)

1.25'' - 1.5'' (Street hopper choice - Tire wear issues arise)

ECT.................


_____________________________________________________



Slip unit Installation / Shortened driveshafts & The Purpose ........ Why they are needed & Problems that arise without them...............


ECT ECT ECT..................


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## DuezPaid

Some helpful topics.

C-Clamp

Wrapping a x-frame
Wrapping a x-frame

How to build a body dolly


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## Chaotic Lows

good topic this will help out every noobie as well as some of us


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## PLANETGETLOW

Q. What type of welder and or gas mixture should I use
A. Typically most frame re-enforcements are performed with a "MIG" or wire-feed setup however a "TIG" or "STICK" welder could also be used. 

In this case it's recommended to use a higher amp (220) wire-feed welder with .030, .035, .040, or even .045 steel wire. Try to avoid the flux-core wire as the beads, puddle, and technique do now flow as nice as a shielded arc weld.

My recommendation would be this setup MIG/Wire-Feed welder with .040 steel wire and a gas mix of Argon and CO-2 with a mixture of 90/10.

(Reference)
ARGON + OXYGEN MIG Welding (Stainless Steel) 
ARGON + CARBON DIOXIDE MIG Welding (Mild Steel) 
ARGON + HYDROGEN TIG Welding (Stainless Steel) 
ARGON + HELIUM MIG/TIG Welding 

The weld heat/penetration should be hot enough to discolor the back side of the material you're welding on with NO burnthrough. Often times lap or butt welds are used to promote the proper fittup.


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## Volv_lo

Here's a very frequent one lately. How do I hook up my solenoids?


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## richiev64

Ok my back pump lifts but it wont go down, i have allready cracked a line... that was not the prob, i also made sure the slow down was open, still no luck, so then i checked the wire for power, (the only wire that is hooked to my two rear dumps)....i only have 3 switches f/b/p, and thats it!! but what i want to know is can you all help me fig. out what wire it is, is there a wiring diagram that shows where power starts and moves to the switch and then where it ends? so i can fig this out and make it to this show on Sat????? Help im lost?????


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by richiev64_@Mar 27 2007, 06:50 PM~7564595
> *Ok my back pump lifts but it wont go down, i have allready cracked a line... that was not the prob, i also made sure the slow down was open, still no luck, so then i checked the wire for power, (the only wire that is hooked to my two rear dumps)....i only have 3 switches  f/b/p, and thats it!! but what i want to know is can you all help me fig. out what wire it is, is there a wiring diagram that shows where power starts and moves to the switch and then where it ends? so i can fig this out and make it to this show on Sat?????    Help im lost?????
> *


You should have 1 - 24 volts wire connected to your switches. I would make sure you have that first. Then you should follow your dump wires and see what switch they're attached to. From there you should test your switch to see if it's shorted out


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## buggsyjackrabbit

A CHEAP AND USE FULL TOOL IS A JUMPER WIRE FOR SOLENOIDS, SIMPLY TO CHECK WHEN SOLENOIDS HAVE NO CONTACT FROM WEAR


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## OneStopCustoms

how to do your c-clamp that on the hydraulic page 

http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=248945


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## kaos283

What about correct lenght for the driveshaft for different type of car, ex: regal, impala, caddy. Depending on the cylinders. For a 68 impala would be appreciated (12inch in the back) :biggrin:


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## superdodge2196

split-bank...


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## superdodge2196

chain bridge...


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## chet milner

how much pressure of air should be put into my showtime pump. i see a spot for air on the block! what is the purpose of this?


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## LAC'N_NOTHING

we've all seen the horror storys,
don't take your car to some klown in your
hood that say's..............

"ohh yea i could put that shit 
in for you and save you some money"

if you can't do it yourself take it to someone who knows 
wtf there doing


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## chet milner

was that aimed twords me or :dunno:


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## DuezPaid

> _Originally posted by chet milner_@Apr 7 2007, 09:09 AM~7636979
> *how much pressure of air should be put into my showtime pump. i see a spot for air on the block! what is the purpose of this?
> *


I think the max on those is 25psi. I believe its to stop the vacuum effect when the oil gets sucked out of the tank. In LRM years ago, they suggested not plugging the tank.


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## chet milner

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Apr 8 2007, 04:57 PM~7644897
> *I think the max on those is 25psi. I believe its to stop the vacuum effect when the oil gets sucked out of the tank. In LRM years ago, they suggested not plugging the tank.
> *


so like 10-15 psi should be fine then? thnx again for hookin me up bro. your good peeps!


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## Pyrit

What's up with springs? Why use 2 tons springs over 1 1/2 tons?


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## midcanadalowriders

how much fluid should be in your tank when the car is fully dumped? i've heard mixed reviews.........the logic is to have enough space to allow the fluid back in without popping the tank seal........obviously, but what do you use as a gauge? it's hard to tell if the fluid is an inch from the top or a half inch.
what i've done is used a zip tie to measure it that way, is there a better way?


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## Str8crazy80

Whats better to use spring wize pre cut for full stack cuz i'm wanting chrome springs but havent seen them pre cut can you cut the chrome full stacks or not. or is it better just to get pre cuts?


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by midcanadalowriders_@Apr 27 2007, 06:09 PM~7788044
> *how much fluid should be in your tank when the car is fully dumped? i've heard mixed reviews.........the logic is to have enough space to allow the fluid back in without popping the tank seal........obviously, but what do you use as a gauge? it's hard to tell if the fluid is an inch from the top or a half inch.
> what i've done is used a zip tie to measure it that way, is there a better way?
> *


Make sure your car is fully lowered (pancacked). IT MUST BE ALL OF THE WAY DOWN. Now fill your tank up just enough so you can see fluid. Mine are mounted vertical and I top them off just a little below the fill hole.


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by Str8crazy80_@Apr 29 2007, 01:37 PM~7797163
> *Whats better to use spring wize pre cut for full stack cuz i'm wanting chrome springs but havent seen them pre cut can you cut the chrome full stacks or not. or is it better just to get pre cuts?
> *


I suggest full stacks. 

With pre-cut coils, the coil might be tall enough when you first install them so you're happy with your car, but over time the coil will "settle" or become broken in which can vary from 1 inch to 3 inches depending on the tonage and height.

With a full stack you can always cut them a little taller, break them in, then trim them to size (if you need to).


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## Str8crazy80

thanks for the help but can you cut the chrome stacks? and it not mess up the chrome?


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by Str8crazy80_@Apr 30 2007, 10:33 PM~7808089
> *thanks for the help but can you cut the chrome stacks? and it not mess up the chrome?
> *


Use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel....


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## MAYHEM

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@May 1 2007, 09:06 PM~7813998
> *Use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel....
> *


cut of your taint ya douche u never use it anyways


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## KADILAKIN

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by MAYHEM_@May 7 2007, 07:54 PM~7854038
> *cut of your taint ya douche u never use it anyways
> *


Speaky engrish ya big Quebec'in


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## capriceman75

ttt


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## PLANETGETLOW

:roflmao: :roflmao:

It's pinned


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## KAKALAK

:scrutinize:


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## chubaka79

> _Originally posted by BlueBerry_@Mar 16 2007, 01:09 AM~7488677
> *We need some links to extending arms & what they do & how balljoint movements & such are cured........ Something about appropriate extensions per vehicle - A basic guide line such as :
> 
> 3/4'' - 1''  (Most common for daily street driven cars)
> 
> 1.25'' - 1.5''  (Street hopper choice - Tire wear issues arise)
> 
> ECT.................
> _____________________________________________________
> Slip unit Installation / Shortened driveshafts & The Purpose ........  Why they are needed & Problems that arise without them...............
> ECT ECT ECT..................
> *


wud up homie wonderin if u can help got question bout my drive shaft ,some body told me to shortin it ?


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## BIG NICK

:biggrin:


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## Jmich

question about hydraulics? The back raises up but the front just clicks? help


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## THE ONE

It could the motor or the solenoids. .02 :biggrin:


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## elmonte

Where are the frame's stress points? on a G body


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## DuezPaid

> _Originally posted by elmonte_@Jun 15 2007, 09:01 AM~8109905
> *Where are  the frame's stress points? on a G body
> *


between the bumpers.


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## TAIB

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Jun 18 2007, 05:32 PM~8126915
> *between the bumpers.
> *


ppffffffffffffffffffffffffff haahahahahhahahaha


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## 29775

im thinking of making a lowrider out of my 1981 coupe parisienne brougham











im thinking about a 2 pump setup with either 4 batt 1 bank or 6 batt 2 bank...
but do i need to reinforce the frame... and when they install the hydros to they remove the body of the car from the frame?

any tips would be apreciated
thx


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## piston pump 07

when do u guys usually charge ur batts just wondering i charge mine about every week or so im on 4 prohopper pumps and 5 batts in the very end of the trunk


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## PLANETGETLOW

I charge mine when I can feel it get slower. I can go a couple weeks without charging but I'm not on the switches all the time.


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## KAKALAK

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Jun 18 2007, 12:32 PM~8126915
> *between the bumpers.
> *




:0 :0 :0 :0 :0 :0 :0 :0


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## SwAnGiN88

I got 3 prohopper pumps, and when i lift the front the pump makes a whining noise when i lift


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## TAIB

> _Originally posted by True Blue187_@Jul 12 2007, 08:43 PM~8294005
> *I got 3 prohopper pumps, and when i lift the front the pump makes a whining noise when i lift
> *


oil???


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## biggeazy-e

how do you spell selleniod?

is it-

sillynoid

or

sollynoyd


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## 1970

over locked my car, rear motor burned out ,changed motor but ground wire sparks


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## biggeazy-e

> _Originally posted by 1970_@Jul 16 2007, 09:14 PM~8322148
> *over locked my car, rear motor burned out ,changed motor but ground wire sparks
> *


clean your ground


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## PLANETGETLOW

Or the noid is stuck.....


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## biggeazy-e

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jul 17 2007, 03:01 PM~8327971
> *Or the noid is stuck.....
> *


Sounds right..


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by biggeazy-e_@Jul 18 2007, 08:27 AM~8335222
> *Sounds right..
> *


I say that cause that was one of my last issues. My batts were low and I tapped the switch to go up and the motor ran away, luckily it was a slow lift and I had time to grab the disconnect.

I tapped on the noids and it dropped the car down, BUT when I connected the ground back up, that fucker lit up like a roman candle, even melting the disconnect end. After swapping out the noids, it was fine. Power was running through the ground from the noids TRYING to find a ground.


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## 1970

thanks for the help, will replace the noids :biggrin:


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## biggeazy-e

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jul 18 2007, 05:49 PM~8338665
> *I say that cause that was one of my last issues. My batts were low and I tapped the switch to go up and the motor ran away, luckily it was a slow lift and I had time to grab the disconnect.
> 
> I tapped on the noids and it dropped the car down, BUT when I connected the ground back up, that fucker lit up like a roman candle, even melting the disconnect end. After swapping out the noids, it was fine. Power was running through the ground from the noids TRYING to find a ground.
> *


Yeah, not to mention the fact that he probably overlocked the car due to a stuck noid, and that would definitely explain the sparking ground


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by biggeazy-e_@Jul 19 2007, 11:12 AM~8344740
> *Yeah, not to mention the fact that he probably overlocked the car due to a stuck noid, and that would definitely explain the sparking ground
> *


:yes: :yes:


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## MagicNarcosis

I have alot of questions i want to ask, but I don't want to get SLAUGHTERED like a noob. Because when it comes to lowriding, I AM a NOOB :yessad:


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by MagicNarcosis_@Jul 23 2007, 02:03 AM~8368860
> *I have alot of questions i want to ask, but I don't want to get SLAUGHTERED like a noob. Because when it comes to lowriding, I AM a NOOB :yessad:
> *


Ask away....you'll never learn unless you ask. I'm still learning....


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## 81cutty




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## MagicNarcosis

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jul 23 2007, 09:48 AM~8370440
> *Ask away....you'll never learn unless you ask. I'm still learning....
> *



alright first few questions...

whats the difference besides the obviously cheap price of chinas and daytons? quality material?


i see people with "banks" of batteries in say for instance.. 

4 on the left side.. 4 on the right side... and sometimes 4 across the bottom inbetween the banks... like a "U" shape with batteries in banks..

why is the placement always the same? if they are all hooked up regardless..why dont they put the batteries where they want?? say like.... 4 on each side... 4 at the bottom and 4 at the top....?


here is a seriously noob question... i dont remember what little did know about it.. but what is the reason for "grounding" out in the trunkspace? to keep the voltage flowing evenly through all batteries??


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## Reverend Hearse

you have to have a ground to complete the circut....


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## MagicNarcosis

> _Originally posted by hearse driver_@Jul 24 2007, 02:27 PM~8380933
> *you have to have a ground to complete the circut....
> *


i figured so.. thanks


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## pfunk4515

how do you get the gas pedal to quit sticking when the car is loked up? it does'nt happen all the time but if i floor it then let off sometimes it keeps going. in my buddies 70 impala it happens all the time its locked up. let me know if there is a way to stop this


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by MagicNarcosis_@Jul 24 2007, 03:23 PM~8380905
> *alright first few questions...
> 
> whats the difference besides the obviously cheap price of chinas and daytons? quality material?
> i see people with "banks" of batteries in say for instance..
> 
> 4 on the left side.. 4 on the right side... and sometimes 4 across the bottom inbetween the banks... like a "U" shape with batteries in banks..
> 
> why is the placement always the same? if they are all hooked up regardless..why dont they put the batteries where they want?? say like.... 4 on each side... 4 at the bottom and 4 at the top....?
> here is a seriously noob question... i dont remember what little did know about it.. but  what is the reason for "grounding" out in the trunkspace? to keep the voltage flowing evenly through all batteries??
> *


Cheap Wires vs. Daytons = I would imagine the plating quality, workmanship of the rim, and material used are all BIG factors of good and GREAT.

You can place the batteries anyway you like but when you see banks, it's easier to use them closer so you don't have cables all over the damn place and often easier to up the voltage by just a quick couple changes.

Groud Questions = Already answered

All good questions.


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by pfunk4515_@Jul 24 2007, 09:47 PM~8384011
> *how do you get the gas pedal to quit sticking when the car is loked up? it does'nt happen all the time but if i floor it then let off sometimes it keeps going. in my buddies 70 impala it happens all the time its locked up. let me know if there is a way to stop this
> *


Is it the "Pedal" or the carb??

If it's the pedal, something is binding....have him tap it up and you watch the linkage.


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## pfunk4515

its the carb it gets stuck wide open.


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by pfunk4515_@Jul 25 2007, 11:38 AM~8387643
> *its the carb it gets stuck wide open.
> *


Linkage.....

Gotta be

*Edit - could be the float, but that would make it flood


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## pfunk4515

thanks it helped the problem


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## MagicNarcosis

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jul 25 2007, 05:15 AM~8385807
> *Is it the "Pedal" or the carb??
> 
> If it's the pedal, something is binding....have him tap it up and you watch the linkage.
> *


thanks 1low!!!!!!!!!

what part of my car should i do first if i wanna re-do the whole car?

i wanna do the interior first.. but i dont wanna get it dirty doing other shyt..
i wanna do alot first.. what should i start with?

dont know where 2 begin when i get my car :tears:

whats a good 3 pump setup?? by who? and who all recommends what? quality and price wise.. ex. black magic, pro hopper, showtime etc.?


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by MagicNarcosis_@Jul 27 2007, 02:58 AM~8403616
> *thanks 1low!!!!!!!!!
> 
> what part of my car should i do first if i wanna re-do the whole car?
> 
> i wanna do the interior first.. but i dont wanna get it dirty doing other shyt..
> i wanna do alot first.. what should i start with?
> 
> dont know where 2 begin when i get my car :tears:
> 
> whats a good 3 pump setup?? by who? and who all recommends what? quality and price wise.. ex. black magic, pro hopper, showtime etc.?
> *


I recommend your rebuild in this order

Frame
Body/Paint
Hydraulics
Interior

Just my preference.....

Prohopper has some tight setups (what I run) but so does PITBULL or Blackmagic.


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## MagicNarcosis

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jul 27 2007, 06:05 AM~8403899
> *I recommend your rebuild in this order
> 
> Frame
> Body/Paint
> Hydraulics
> Interior
> 
> Just my preference.....
> 
> Prohopper has some tight setups (what I run) but so does PITBULL or Blackmagic.
> *


so out of the three.. which would u pick? (well you did pick up prohopper) thats what i was thinkin about getting..

its gonna be my first build.. i already know what i wanna do.. 

and i might be driving this car around after i do frame.. is it gonna be harder to drive with a fully wrapped frame?


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## Reverend Hearse

whats better , extending the uppers at the ears , or just cutting them old school style?


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by MagicNarcosis+Jul 27 2007, 03:22 PM~8407631-->
> 
> 
> 
> so out of the three.. which would u pick? (well you did pick up prohopper) thats what i was thinkin about getting..
> 
> its gonna be my first build.. i already know what i wanna do..
> 
> and i might be driving this car around after i do frame.. is it gonna be harder to drive with a fully wrapped frame?
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, it'll defaintely be heavier but most of us ride low-n-slow so it's all good
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-hearse driver_@Jul 29 2007, 03:23 AM~8417858
> *whats better , extending the uppers at the ears , or just cutting them old school style?
> *


I went at the ears so my I would have less to notch out for clearance of the cylinder.


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## MagicNarcosis

after fully wrapping the frame.. how long will it hold up throughout the years?


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by MagicNarcosis_@Jul 30 2007, 02:12 AM~8423746
> *after fully wrapping the frame.. how long will it hold up throughout the years?
> *


depends how good/bad you are on the switch.


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## MagicNarcosis

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jul 30 2007, 04:51 PM~8429623
> *depends how good/bad you are on the switch.
> *


ima clown within reason... but i wont be hopping all the time.. more 3 wheelin than anything.. 

why do people hate on g-bodies so much?


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## Str8BoucinT&M

I was wonderin for a newbie.
What kinda of setup should I do?If I were going to do the installion myself.
And as for my first hydro car.How should I RUN the banks volts for my front or rear pump.


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## Str8BoucinT&M

oh okay no help thene fuck it.


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by Str8BoucinT&M_@Jul 31 2007, 09:57 AM~8435534
> *I was wonderin for a newbie.
> What kinda of setup should I do?If I were going to do the installion myself.
> And as for my first hydro car.How should I RUN the banks volts for my front or rear pump.
> *


You should go with a basic 2 pump 4 dump setup and run it with 48 or 60 volts. You'll also want to re-enforce the stress points even if you're just planning on lifting/laying.


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## Str8BoucinT&M

I dont have a pics of my trunck,but i know it would help.I was wondering were should mount my battier rack.I have an 84 cutlass supreme brougham with a spear tire holder in the ground.It stands up.I want to be able to put my pumps were it would be easy to services


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## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by Str8BoucinT&M_@Aug 2 2007, 08:39 AM~8454282
> *I dont have a pics of my trunck,but i know it would help.I was wondering were should mount my battier rack.I have an 84 cutlass supreme brougham with a spear tire holder in the ground.It stands up.I want to be able to put my pumps were it would be easy to services
> *


Do a search on some ride in Post Your Rides for some cutty's and grab some ideas.


----------



## warrenG

i have a 79 lincoln mark iv and i have 2 pumps 4 batt system im putting in it, im not going to be bouncing and i dont even think it would 3 wheel because of how long and heavy the car is so should i still do reinforcements of the frame....or do you know of any weak spots on those cars??


----------



## urban

im wondering about these pics i seen in ichinban 


http://www.ichibanhydraulics.com/mosthated.html

how can i get my 93 fleetwood locked up so high and be able to drive like most hated.

i heard that the drive shaft will start to vibrate and get really stressed .

thanks in advanced


----------



## Reverend Hearse

o0n a radical hopper most of therm dont have driveshafts, what is being used to propel the car forward? i have heard starter motor , but im not sure....


----------



## Reverend Hearse

> _Originally posted by hearse driver_@Aug 24 2007, 01:23 PM~8633402
> *o0n a radical hopper most of therm dont have driveshafts, what is being used to propel the car forward? i have heard starter motor , but im not sure....
> *


 :0


----------



## salinas

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64+Jul 18 2007, 02:49 PM~8338665-->
> 
> 
> 
> I say that cause that was one of my last issues. My batts were low and I tapped the switch to go up and the motor ran away, luckily it was a slow lift and I had time to grab the disconnect.
> 
> I tapped on the noids and it dropped the car down, BUT when I connected the ground back up, that fucker lit up like a roman candle, even melting the disconnect end. After swapping out the noids, it was fine. Power was running through the ground from the noids TRYING to find a ground.
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-1 LO 64_@Jul 18 2007, 02:49 PM~8338665
> *I say that cause that was one of my last issues. My batts were low and I tapped the switch to go up and the motor ran away, luckily it was a slow lift and I had time to grab the disconnect.
> I tapped on the noids and it dropped the car down, BUT when I connected the ground back up, that fucker lit up like a roman candle, even melting the disconnect end.*


With a bad switch can do that to, Am I wrong?  :dunno:


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by salinas_@Aug 29 2007, 09:15 PM~8674533
> *With a bad switch can do that to, Am I wrong?   :dunno:
> *


Sure, a bad switch or blown fuse (assuming you're running one)


----------



## KAKALAK

:0


----------



## Reverend Hearse

> _Originally posted by hearse driver_@Aug 26 2007, 02:52 PM~8644506
> *:0
> *


nobody knows?"


----------



## OJ Hydraulics

Wut iz splitin tha belly of tha car for??


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by hearse driver_@Sep 8 2007, 12:36 PM~8746013
> *nobody knows?"
> *


I honestly don't know.....




> _Originally posted by OJ Hydraulics_@Sep 8 2007, 05:03 PM~8747068
> *Wut iz splitin tha belly of tha car for??
> *


It helps relieve stress/pressure on the cross-member of the frame when hopping.


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jul 18 2007, 02:49 PM~8338665
> *I say that cause that was one of my last issues. My batts were low and I tapped the switch to go up and the motor ran away, luckily it was a slow lift and I had time to grab the disconnect.
> 
> I tapped on the noids and it dropped the car down, BUT when I connected the ground back up, that fucker lit up like a roman candle, even melting the disconnect end. After swapping out the noids, it was fine. Power was running through the ground from the noids TRYING to find a ground.
> *


same shit happened to me this weekend tapped the switch one corner locked up so i pulled the disconnect i checked the ground in the back everything was good so when i touch the disconnect together they spark went back i though it was my switch cause i tapped them all down the the dissconnect didnt spark but if i hit the front that corner locks ups i didnt realy have time to mess with it and am at work i think this weekend i'll charge my batterys and change out my noids and put a new front switch and check my grounds that should pretty much do it dont all think or is there somthing am forgeting


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

After you replace everything check your grounds with a meter along with the noids.....


----------



## dirty_duece

cool thanks bro i'll try that am only home on the weekends so i like to plan out what am gonna do to it that way i take care of every thing at once and am not there all day thinking about that else it might be u know what am saying


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

ok i got a quick question

i want to cap and some what wrap my lower trailing arms and i was wondering are any of the holes on the side of the 2 on the top needed or can i cover them up. im running a sway bar also so does tht have anything to do with the holes?

i got a 93 fleetwood


----------



## olyella02

Got a question? How much are u supposed to shorten the rear end of a 93 fleetwood 
so i can drop it all the way and drive.I would greatly appreciate any info.
THANKS IN ADVANCE


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

> _Originally posted by olyella02_@Sep 16 2007, 03:18 PM~8802505
> *Got a question? How much are u supposed to shorten the rear end of a 93 fleetwood
> so i can drop it all the way and drive.I would greatly appreciate any info.
> THANKS IN ADVANCE
> *


0 just get some daytons or zeniths


----------



## olyella02

It has 14x6 chinas


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

> _Originally posted by olyella02_@Sep 16 2007, 06:01 PM~8803401
> *It has 14x6 chinas
> *


and those rub???

i also have 14x6s and mines dont rub


----------



## olyella02

It rubs,the rear end is not the one off this car the one it has on it right now came off an impala(96 i believe)I got another stock rear but someone told me I was suppose to shorten it.That is what I wanna know so I can get it done before I install it.


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

o0o0o well mines is all stock and im running 14x6s and not a problem :dunno:


----------



## dirty_duece

I'VE HEARD HEAR OF HAVEING TO SHORTEN THE STOCK CADDY REAR END I HAVE SEEN PEOPLE PUT 13'' WITH NO MODS TO THE REAR END


----------



## Richard Slapson

do i NEED to reinforce around the ear holes of my a-arm when i extend and reinforce the arms?


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

> _Originally posted by RAIDERSEQUAL_@Sep 16 2007, 01:31 PM~8802033
> *ok i got a quick question
> 
> i want to cap and some what wrap my lower trailing arms and i was wondering are any of the holes on the side of the 2 on the top needed or can i cover them up. im running a sway bar also so does tht have anything to do with the holes?
> 
> i got a 93 fleetwood
> *


 :dunno:


----------



## Richard Slapson

> _Originally posted by GueroRegal_@Sep 17 2007, 01:25 PM~8810294
> *do i NEED to reinforce around the ear holes of my a-arm when i extend and reinforce the arms?
> *


ttt for my Q!!!


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by GueroRegal_@Sep 17 2007, 02:25 PM~8810294
> *do i NEED to reinforce around the ear holes of my a-arm when i extend and reinforce the arms?
> *


i would i had some extended and not reinforce and they bent by the ears cause they were not reinforced i say yes :biggrin:


----------



## charles85

> Q. A solenoid sticks open and the motor keeps running or burns out.
> A. Low batteries! Improperly grounded solenoids. Too many or not enough solenoids (a good rule of thumb is 3 high quality 12v solenoids per pump). Motor armature could be shorting internally, brush plate insulators could be burned up and melted, the commutor could be wrapped around shorting the motor and drawing excessive amps causing the solenoids to burn out prematurely.
> got four pumps 3solenoid per pump 8 battery to the front 4 to the back the front keep geting suck open good grown, good charge do i need 2 more noids to me front.


----------



## pinche chico

cough cough!! okay heres my dumb Q,,,, how do i know what size cylinders i have? where to where do i measure :biggrin:


----------



## Volv_lo

Its measured by stroke - measure the total length when the ram is retracted, and then again when it is fully extended. Your answer is now present...

As for bore, take the end cap off and measure the inner diameter.. THE BIGGER THE BORE THE MORE POWER BUT SLOWER IT IS.. have to find that perfect match for your car depending on what you want.. Usually fatter in the rear for 3 wheeling and skinnier in the front for speed and hopping..


----------



## pinche chico

thanks man!


----------



## 817Lowrider

Is it absolutely necessary to wrap your frame if your not hopping?


----------



## MIGUEL CHILANGO

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Mar 11 2007, 10:50 AM~7454922
> *Q. Can I 3 wheel with 2 Pumps
> 
> A. You can 3 wheel with 2 Pumps, however it highly depends on different scenarios.
> The type of car and weight distribution
> 
> The amount of weight in your trunk {batteries/pumps}
> 
> The size cylinders you are running {should be 12's or higher in the rear}
> 
> How many dumps you are running
> 
> Your switch configuration
> 
> Chain bridged or not
> 
> Most X-Frame Impalas can 3 wheel very easily with the right weight in the trunk, typically 6 batteries or more, 3 in each bank. Some cars require more/less weight, a 3 or 4 link suspension, and most importantly a re-enforced frame.
> *


----------



## MIGUEL CHILANGO

HOW CAN I DO A 3 WHEEL WITH LEAF SPRING


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by MIGUEL CHILANGO_@Oct 2 2007, 09:13 PM~8919673
> *HOW CAN I DO A 3 WHEEL WITH LEAF SPRING
> *


What car, what setup, more details always are helpful


----------



## MIGUEL CHILANGO

HOW CAN I DO 3 WHEEL WITH LEAF SPRING. 1966 DODGE MONACO , 3PUMS 8 BATTERIES.


----------



## ALL DAY

ok i lock up the car....tap the front down and drivers side goes all the way down while the passenger side goes only halfway.

is this possilbly due to pressure lock? if it was pressure locked would it even go down at all?

bad dump? air in the line?


what should i do?

2pump 4 dump 8 batt setup


----------



## Str8crazy80

> _Originally posted by juangotti_@Sep 30 2007, 09:34 AM~8900062
> *Is it absolutely necessary to wrap your frame if your not hopping?
> *


as long as your not hopping you will be fine but i would recomend you renforce your stress points on the frame


----------



## Maverick

ttt


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

:roflmao: :roflmao:


----------



## mr. cadlac

last week i juiced a 91 fleetwood, the front has been giving some trouble the cylinder has been popping out of the spring pain in the ass after you have fixed it three times so i called pro hopper and orderd some deep cups have you guys ever had this problem what am i doing wrong?


----------



## Richard Slapson

how do i find out how many volts my motor can handle?


----------



## mr. cadlac

nevermind no help needed


----------



## DuezPaid

> _Originally posted by GueroRegal_@Oct 26 2007, 10:43 PM~9092948
> *how do i find out how many volts my motor can handle?
> *


When it lights on fire, you'll know its 12 less than that.


----------



## Richard Slapson

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Oct 30 2007, 10:17 PM~9119925
> *When it lights on fire, you'll know its 12 less than that.
> *


lol got it :biggrin:


----------



## johnnyhop

hello everyone my name is john i'm from the model car section of the forums but i have just resently bought a chevy s10 and i was wonderign were i can get a 4 pump 8 battery setup for it but i cna only spend $2500 dollars. can anyone help.


----------



## ILLVILLE

quick question, can someone hook me up with the gear numbers on these pump heads

marzzochi








italian


----------



## ILLVILLE

:dunno:


----------



## DuezPaid

#11's ^^^^

Its the number between the 1S and AS, 5=#7, 6=#9, 7=#11


----------



## ILLVILLE

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Nov 4 2007, 09:47 PM~9154942
> *#11's ^^^^
> 
> Its the number between the 1S and AS, 5=#7, 6=#9, 7=#11
> *


cool thankyou :biggrin:


----------



## Reverend Hearse

whats the best way to ship a setup ? im thinking of selling my stuff but whats the best way? i was going to pack the pumps in thier own boxes, and everything else in another box, but would i be better off shipping in one large box? whos the cheaopest? whats it cost usually?


----------



## DuezPaid

> _Originally posted by hearse driver_@Nov 11 2007, 10:10 PM~9206773
> *whats the best way to ship a setup ? im  thinking of selling my stuff but whats the best way? i was going to pack the pumps in thier own boxes, and everything else in another box, but would i be better off shipping in one large box? whos the cheaopest? whats it cost usually?
> *


I shipped a pump in two flat rate usps boxes. The tank was a little bigger than the box but it still fit.


----------



## Reverend Hearse

what did it cost?


----------



## DuezPaid

The boxes cost $9 each to ship.


----------



## Reverend Hearse

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Nov 13 2007, 03:03 PM~9219533
> *The boxes cost $9 each to ship.
> *


per pump? what service? complete pumps? that seems cheap....


----------



## DuezPaid

> _Originally posted by hearse driver_@Nov 16 2007, 03:24 AM~9240041
> *per pump? what service? complete pumps? that seems  cheap....
> *


Two boxes per pump. You have to take them apart. USPS flat rate boxes.


----------



## BIG NICK




----------



## Dayto

I just replaced the Pump O Ring (That seals the tank to pump) for the first time and now the tank is being a bitch to get back on ?


----------



## DJ Englewood

hey i got a newbie question i have seen where people say wrap the whole frame and i understand that but cash is short and i was thinkin about just doin the stress points on a 63 impala and i wanted to know where the stress points on an x frame and i know i will be better off doin a total wrap but will this do any good?


----------



## topless65

> _Originally posted by DJ Englewood_@Dec 21 2007, 10:05 PM~9504665
> *hey i got a newbie question i have seen where people say wrap the whole frame and i understand that but cash is short and i was thinkin about just doin the stress points on a 63 impala and i wanted to know where the stress points on an x frame and i know i will be better off doin a total wrap but will this do any good?
> *


do the arch in the back over the diff. as well as the cross member, and spring pockets.


----------



## STKN209

I need a picture or pictures of the back cylinders sitting on trailing arms and on power balls..Please post so i could get a mental picture in my head...1964 Impala SS :biggrin:


----------



## DuezPaid

Street Metal Fabrication's:


----------



## STKN209

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Jan 7 2008, 02:04 AM~9628284
> *Street Metal Fabrication's:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Do you have pictures the way there sitting on the car how cylinder goes on the powerball than coil spring?


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

those are nice arms, but it would have been better to lean the powerballs forward to keep the cylinder shaft from hittin the cup of the powerball as the car lifts up. but i bet u know that already lol so im assuming they are goin on a car that isnt puttin in tall rear cylinders lol. just thought i let other know about leaning them forward


----------



## TWEEDY




----------



## EIGHT BALL

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Jan 9 2008, 04:14 AM~9646469
> *those are nice arms, but it would have been better to lean the powerballs forward to keep the cylinder shaft from hittin the cup of the powerball as the car lifts up.  but i bet u know that already lol so im assuming they are goin on a car that isnt puttin in tall rear cylinders lol.  just thought i let other know about leaning them forward
> *



feel the same idea there.
i was going to say, those need to be tipped forward alot, not flat.
and longer cylinders , you need to lift the rear higher then the actual original mount height or the cylinders bend, any thing over 14's/


----------



## kustombuilder




----------



## TWEEDY

nice


----------



## southeastrollin

ok, i know someone else already got this answered but it wasn't specific enough for me. if i jack up the back of the car and i find two feet of clearance, what size cylinder would i use to get the two feet of lift?


----------



## BIGG-USO

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Mar 22 2007, 07:24 AM~7528099
> *Q. What type of welder and or gas mixture should I use
> A. Typically most frame re-enforcements are performed with a "MIG" or wire-feed setup however a "TIG" or "STICK" welder could also be used.
> 
> In this case it's recommended to use a higher amp (220) wire-feed welder with .030, .035, .040, or even .045 steel wire. Try to avoid the flux-core wire as the beads, puddle, and technique do now flow as nice as a shielded arc weld.
> 
> My recommendation would be this setup MIG/Wire-Feed welder with .040 steel wire and a gas mix of Argon and CO-2 with a mixture of 90/10.
> 
> (Reference)
> ARGON + OXYGEN MIG Welding (Stainless Steel)
> ARGON + CARBON DIOXIDE MIG Welding (Mild Steel)
> ARGON + HYDROGEN TIG Welding (Stainless Steel)
> ARGON + HELIUM MIG/TIG Welding
> 
> The weld heat/penetration should be hot enough to discolor the back side of the material you're welding on with NO burnthrough. Often times lap or butt welds are used to promote the proper fittup.
> *


TRING TO FIND OUT WHAT SIZE STICK AND WHAT VOLTAGE TO SET THE WELDER TO, DOES DEPEND WHAT SIZE METAL PLATE I USE ANY HELP WILL BE HELPFUL THANXS


----------



## BIGG-USO

THIS IS THE TYPE OF STICK WELDING IM TALKING ABOUT


----------



## suthrn_az_lo_lo

quik ?...i got a 84 plymouth gran fury and its a unibody..wanna juice it but dont need to hop just lift and lay...its got leafs in the bak and shocks up front wit upper and lower arms...rear wheel drive...just dont know if u should take it to a shop and spend the money to get a full frame made for it or get somethin else..n e help is appreciated


----------



## down79

I used a 6011 3/16 stick. worked perfect


----------



## down79

I used a 3/16" sheet of metal


----------



## undead white boy

CHECK IT IM PLANNING ON HOOKIN UP A 89 CADDY HEARSE 

I WAS WONDERING WHAT YOU GUYS WOULD SUGGEST TO USE EX.(BRANDS,NUMBER OF BATTERIES<NUMBER OF PUMPS,ETC.)


----------



## djspydaz

quick question...i am very new to hydraulics and i was wondering if it is bad to "mix" hydraulic oil 68 and 10w30 motor oil together. i just bought a lowrider with 2 reds pumps, 4 dumps, 6 batts, 6 solenoids....and there is a leak in the front left cylinder. so one pump is way low in fluid. i have a lot of 10w30 motor oil right now, so i just want to see if it would be okay to "mix" the fluids. 

also, anyone know how to stop/fix a leak? is it hard to do, or can i do it myself? thanks in advance.


----------



## AZRIDER

I need some help wiring my two rear pumps with four batts and four solenoids, and still do standing three wheel


----------



## AnthonyMM

Can I 3 wheel with two pumps in an 84 regal and should I wrap my frame and how?


----------



## ihopthode

so whats the best way to check if a seal is blown or leaking on the motor because my back pump worked for about 2 hours and stop working it just spins


----------



## 7Regal6

My motor spins and the car doesnt go up how do I troubleshoot to find out exactly what the problem is...There were many reesons listed.


----------



## turbospirites

> _Originally posted by BIGG-USO_@Jan 25 2008, 09:55 PM~9786010
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THIS IS THE TYPE OF STICK WELDING IM TALKING ABOUT
> *


6011 stick 3/16rod how many amps?


----------



## DJWICKED480

OK SO MY QUESTION IS THIS, I HAVE A SCHUMACHER SE 1072 MULTI CHARGER. HOW CAN I TELL IF THE BATTERIES ARE FULLY CHARGED? ANY WITH ANSWERS WOULD DEFINITELY HELP ME OUT!!!!! IM RUNNIN TWO BANKS, 3 ON EACH SIDE.


----------



## dirty_duece




----------



## bigcadi

> _Originally posted by DJWICKED480_@Mar 16 2008, 01:47 PM~10181009
> *OK SO MY QUESTION IS THIS, I HAVE A SCHUMACHER SE 1072 MULTI CHARGER. HOW CAN I TELL IF THE BATTERIES ARE FULLY CHARGED? ANY WITH ANSWERS WOULD DEFINITELY HELP ME OUT!!!!! IM RUNNIN TWO BANKS, 3 ON EACH SIDE.
> *


 the meter will read all the way to the left"fullycharged" ...4 a full charge on three batterys will take about 6 hours give or take an hour..... :biggrin:


----------



## DCLoko

I GOT A QUESTION MY REAR SWITCH GOT STUCK AND DINT NOTICE AND MY DUMP OVERHEATED AND I CHANGE RINGS BUT WILL THEY WORK THE SAME!! EVERYTIME I HIT THE SWITCH ONE SIDES GO UP MORE THAN THE OTHER ONE WATS THE PROBLEM MY DUMPS OH I NEED TO BLEED MY REAR HOSE!??????????


----------



## haze1995

One of my rear cylinders is scraping against the hole that was cut in the trunk. My question is: If I cut more out will this solve the scraping issue?


----------



## Hydros

Learn how to correctly use a hydrometer.


----------



## haze1995

Got it figured out! Thanks to my new friends at Royal Image CC.


----------



## big stomps

can someone tell me how the cylinder mounts to the lower controll arm 
pics would definitely help me out


----------



## big stomps

can anyone here me :happysad:


----------



## big stomps

can anyone here me :happysad:


----------



## big stomps

can anyone here me :happysad:


----------



## Avila86Cutlass

help wanted! my car goes up but only with the slow valve closed if i open it the car goes down on the spot... this is the second time this happens the firts time i had my slow valve closed for a while but one day i opened it and it staid up so i was able to use it again but now i have the same problem. can someone help out?


----------



## RALPH_DOGG

what about noise issues, if im about half way locked it squeeks, but if i fully lock up then it goes away, i already widened the hole...what should be my next step???

its a 97 towncar ~ 10" cylinders...coil over set up with about 2 1/2-3 turn stock fornt sprins


----------



## pinche chico

heres a newb question...how or where do i locate the gear number on my showtime pump?


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by pinche chico_@Apr 14 2008, 11:14 AM~10412589
> *heres a newb question...how or where do i locate the gear number on my showtime pump?
> *


take off the tank it will be stamped into the pump head


----------



## pinche chico

cool thanks dirty? theres 4 digits 09/00
is this right?


----------



## MLBTLB

robutussin is to peolple as teflon is to hydraulics,teflon the shit out of everything! :biggrin: that should help out all of your leak problems.if not replace o-rings.


----------



## KAKALAK

> _Originally posted by haze1995_@Apr 6 2008, 04:24 AM~10346132
> *One of my rear cylinders is scraping against the hole that was cut in the trunk.  My question is:  If I cut more out will this solve the scraping issue?
> *


no it will just make your cylinder lean


----------



## pinche chico

another Q ?
how dependable are the old powerballs,,the ones with 4 allen screws ,is it worth keeping them on or just get the new screw on, with one allen screw?


----------



## FPEREZII

If one of my front coils is bent, should i just trash it and get new ones. Only one side is that way, what could cause that. Thanks for the help


----------



## fuckyoupayme

any pictures of battery set ups?
anything over 10-14 battery set up pictures out their?


----------



## savageloc24

can anyone help? i need to check the oil level in my pump, its a piston with about 100psi of nitrogen in it. do i need to let out the nitrogen before i take off the tank plug?


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by savageloc24_@Apr 30 2008, 03:19 PM~10542791
> *can anyone help? i need to check the oil level in my pump, its a piston with about 100psi of nitrogen in it. do i need to let out the nitrogen before i take off the tank plug?
> *


 :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: 

funny stuff man


----------



## stevie d

> _Originally posted by savageloc24_@Apr 30 2008, 01:19 PM~10542791
> *can anyone help? i need to check the oil level in my pump, its a piston with about 100psi of nitrogen in it. do i need to let out the nitrogen before i take off the tank plug?
> *


thats scarey realy people using pistons who have no idea how to use them that why people get hurt


----------



## savageloc24

> _Originally posted by stevie d_@May 12 2008, 08:23 AM~10634745
> *thats scarey realy people using pistons who have no idea how to use them that why people get hurt
> *


i figured it out..


----------



## RALPH_DOGG

i fucken love accumulators!!! :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by RALPH_DOGG_@May 16 2008, 10:29 PM~10674683
> *i fucken love accumulators!!!  :biggrin:  :biggrin:  :biggrin:
> *


whats up ralph_dogg??


----------



## theoso8

Aight here's a question, and I appreciate the help. blew one of the silinoids for my showtime pump for the front. So I replaced it. Front acted like it wanted to go up but was realy weak. Then nothing. I replaced all 3 silinoids for that side. It did the same thing went up, acted weak while going up, and then nothing. Hit the switch a couple more times then the 3 silinoids I changed out started smoking. My batteries are charged up, So please someone help a big homie out. Thanks :biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## turbospirites

> _Originally posted by theoso8_@May 20 2008, 06:36 PM~10699259
> *Aight here's a question, and I appreciate the help. blew one of the silinoids for my showtime pump for the front. So I replaced it. Front acted like it wanted to go up but was realy weak. Then nothing. I replaced all 3 silinoids for that side. It did the same thing went up, acted weak while going up, and then nothing. Hit the switch a couple more times then the 3 silinoids I changed out started smoking. My batteries are charged up, So please someone help a big homie out. Thanks :biggrin:  :biggrin:
> *


check the motor if the batterys are charged solenoid's shouldn't go out.


----------



## theoso8

It was the motor, thanks for the help homie. :thumbsup:


----------



## johnnyhop

hey everyone i'm new to this part of the forums i'm usualy in the model car part because thats my thing. i am planning on buying a lincoln towncar like this and was wondering what it would cost for a frame wrap and a 3 pump setup. but the only thing is i live in rhode island and some people here have lowriders but they had there hydraulics installed in another state or would i be better off to just install airbads i'm not looking to spend a alot maybe around $1500. anyone know of any car shops or hydraulic shops in rhode island or new england that could do this for me.


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@May 25 2008, 04:19 AM~10732239
> *hey everyone i'm new to this part of the forums i'm usualy in the model car part because thats my thing. i am planning on buying a lincoln towncar like this and was wondering what it would cost for a frame wrap and a 3 pump setup. but the only thing is i live in rhode island and some people here have lowriders but they had there hydraulics installed in another state or would i be better off to just install airbads i'm not looking to spend a alot maybe around $1500. anyone know of any car shops or hydraulic shops in rhode island or new england that could do this for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


no baggs :biggrin:


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@May 25 2008, 04:19 AM~10732239
> *hey everyone i'm new to this part of the forums i'm usualy in the model car part because thats my thing. i am planning on buying a lincoln towncar like this and was wondering what it would cost for a frame wrap and a 3 pump setup. but the only thing is i live in rhode island and some people here have lowriders but they had there hydraulics installed in another state or would i be better off to just install airbads i'm not looking to spend a alot maybe around $1500. anyone know of any car shops or hydraulic shops in rhode island or new england that could do this for me.
> 
> 
> *


for 1500 you wont get a 3-pump setup installed and a frame wrap start off small homie 2 pump 4 batterys cce has a special for 900 shipped for now maybe you have enough to reinforce the stress points for now


----------



## johnnyhop

> _Originally posted by dirty_duece_@May 25 2008, 03:41 PM~10734308
> *for 1500 you wont get a 3-pump setup installed and a frame wrap start off small homie 2 pump 4 batterys cce has a special for 900 shipped for now maybe you have enough to reinforce the stress points for now
> *


yeah i was looking on prohopper.com to see what they have because people have told me that CCE isnt that good. but yeah a 2 pump setup just a lay and play would be good for now i can always add a 3rd pump later on right? but the thing is i dont know any shop in rhode island or new england that can install them. i've looked around but some shops wont do the wiring


----------



## 95S10chevy

Quick question total noob to hydros bought this truck already setup, right cylinder was leakin so fixed it now pump runs but wont lift front any help would be greatly apprecited. Gettin no pressure to front at all cept pressure that was already there?


----------



## johnnyhop

what about a setups like this one







for the lincoln i'm planning on getting and another question can you 3 wheel with a 2 pump setup? dumb question i know


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

i have 95 fleetwood, and im gettin started on buyin juice parts for my car. 
what are the benefits of adjustable uppers and lowers, and do i need a slip yoke if i want to just park with 12' and not drive?


----------



## johnnyhop

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@May 25 2008, 04:19 AM~10732239
> *hey everyone i'm new to this part of the forums i'm usualy in the model car part because thats my thing. i am planning on buying a lincoln towncar like this and was wondering what it would cost for a frame wrap and a 3 pump setup. but the only thing is i live in rhode island and some people here have lowriders but they had there hydraulics installed in another state or would i be better off to just install airbads i'm not looking to spend a alot maybe around $1500. anyone know of any car shops or hydraulic shops in rhode island or new england that could do this for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



forget this i'm not getting this car and the hydraulics im just going to get an air setup for my scion its much cheaper. :biggrin:


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@Jun 5 2008, 09:17 AM~10803780
> *forget this i'm not getting this car and the hydraulics im just going to get an air setup for my scion its much cheaper.  :biggrin:
> *


if you are so interested in cheap. then, yes bag your little scion, maybe you will have enough cash left over for a nice little dress to wear while you are cruising it around :uh:


----------



## johnnyhop

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Jun 7 2008, 03:43 PM~10819877
> *if you are so interested in cheap. then, yes bag your little scion, maybe you will have enough cash left over for a nice little dress to wear while you are cruising it around  :uh:
> *


i'm still in school i cant really afford a lowrider right now but plan on getting one with in the next year.


----------



## rob-63ss

quick question I got a 63 impala ss that I'm takeing to the shop to get lifted tomorrow. I was wondering if I should get some extended shocks or no shocks wanted to no how much of a difference it is THANKS


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by rob-63ss_@Jun 8 2008, 11:01 PM~10826602
> *quick question I got a 63 impala ss that I'm takeing to the shop to get lifted tomorrow. I was wondering if I should get some extended shocks or no shocks wanted to no how much of a difference it is THANKS
> *


run shocks


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@Jun 7 2008, 11:14 PM~10821227
> *i'm still in school i cant really afford a lowrider right now but plan on getting one with in the next year.
> *


  just remember what a lowrider is. roll low on juice and wires.


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## rob-63ss

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Jun 9 2008, 03:34 PM~10831584
> *run shocks
> *


----------



## chevy_boy

HOW DO YOU CHECK A HYDRAULIC MOTOR TO SEE IF ITS WORKING?
BUT ITS NOT HOOKED UP IN THE CAR...


THANKS


----------



## johnnyhop

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Jun 9 2008, 02:35 PM~10831596
> *  just remember what a lowrider is. roll low on juice and wires.
> *


yeah i know i just want to make sure i have my priorities are in order and then i'll get one.


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by chevy_boy+Jun 12 2008, 02:10 PM~10855463-->
> 
> 
> 
> HOW DO YOU CHECK A HYDRAULIC MOTOR TO SEE IF ITS WORKING?
> BUT ITS NOT HOOKED UP IN THE CAR...
> THANKS
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> just hook a battery to it, that will tell you if the motor is good, you would need to plug the pump and put a pressure gauge on the pressure port and tap the switch to see if its going to build pressure
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-johnnyhop_@Jun 13 2008, 07:50 AM~10861394
> *yeah i know i just want to make sure i have my priorities are in order and then i'll get one.
> *


 :werd:


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@Jun 7 2008, 11:14 PM~10821227
> *i'm still in school i cant really afford a lowrider right now but plan on getting one with in the next year.
> *


sell your scion


----------



## johnnyhop

thanks man


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## johnnyhop

> _Originally posted by Lo_N_Lavish_@Jun 13 2008, 08:29 AM~10862109
> *sell your scion
> *


i would never sell my scion i've put money into it hear and there like a nice system and i might bag it i dont know yet i might just put that money away. its hard being 18 and working and trying to support yourself and go to school to.


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## Lo_N_Lavish

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@Jun 14 2008, 09:56 PM~10871192
> *i would never sell my scion i've put money into it hear and there like a nice system and i might bag it i dont know yet i might just put that money away. its hard being 18 and working and trying to support yourself and go to school to.
> *


im in the same spot, but those scions come a dime a dozen


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## Alaskan_West

So it's now summer and I am working on my Impala again. I had a noob question. I have 2 Hi-Low pumps, and 4 dumps. Should I be able to lift and drop an individual tire? I can lift both front tires, and dump one.


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## Guest

> _Originally posted by Alaskan_West_@Jun 16 2008, 07:50 PM~10882902
> *So it's now summer and I am working on my Impala again. I had a noob question. I have 2 Hi-Low pumps, and 4 dumps. Should I be able to lift and drop an individual tire? I can lift both front tires, and dump one.
> *


you are going to just be able to lift the front or rear and then drop individual corners with a 2 pump 4 dump setup. no lifting each corner


----------



## nelsonberrocal

i just bought a car with switches yesterday they were working fine. now when i hit the switch nothing happens. it does not make any sound at all. all the wires looked like they are connected still i cant figure out whats wrong. :angry:


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## nelsonberrocal

i found out what the problem was a wire.


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## Alaskan_West

> _Originally posted by classic customs_@Jun 20 2008, 10:22 AM~10914228
> *you are going to just be able to lift the front or rear and then drop individual corners with a 2 pump 4 dump setup.  no lifting each corner
> *



Thanks! That is what I was assuming :biggrin: Theres not many juiced cars up in AK to learn from.


----------



## Str8crazy80

didnt want start a topic for it. but dose anyone know were i can git some green zero gauge wire for my batteries??


----------



## Guest

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-b...EF:OR:terms:A


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## MIGUEL CHILANGO

when hit de switch the solenoid cliks


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## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by MIGUEL CHILANGO_@Jun 26 2008, 09:24 PM~10960659
> *when  hit de switch the solenoid cliks
> *


change it its burned


----------



## ghettoslick1

i have a 87 fleetwood broughm and i wanna run 12" cylinders coil over with power balls and also at this time im not doing a chain bridge what i need to know is are my cylinders gonna hit my 6x9 speakers thanks for your time homies


----------



## DUVAL




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## SinCityFleet94

i was planning on keeping my ride stock and just throw some 14s on it, but at the same time i wanna juice it up...will i get clowned on for not being juiced and having 14s on...


----------



## scrappinsan

I have just traded for a nissan hardbody with a 4 pump 4 dump setup 8 batteries , 48 volts 2 banks , I have a couple of questions it has a 16 switch switch box wondering if anyone knows what switch does what it looks like a prewired box from cce but I found no layout of the switches without tracing the wires also I was looking into buying a eai chrome 7 switch prewired switchbox just curious if it would work for hydros I have used these in the past for air ride but been a while for hydros any help would be greatly appreciated here is a pic of the truck and switchbox I want to switch too 16 switches is a little much for me


----------



## scrappinsan

also I am fixing to either buy a se1072 or the street charger I talk to the guy at street charger and he said me driving to work and home like 20 minutes one way would keep my batteries charged or should I go with the se1072 and forget about it


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by scrappinsan_@Jul 20 2008, 11:52 PM~11136345
> *also I am fixing to either buy a se1072 or the street charger I talk to the guy at street charger and he said me driving to work and home like 20 minutes one way  would keep my batteries charged or should I go with the se1072 and forget about it
> *


stay away from cheap switch boxes. i personaly HATE street chargers, the se1072 is a good charger.


----------



## robertgraj304

im new with hydraulics, i just got this blazer, the front works right but the back won't lift up, the batteries are charged, there are no leaks, and the pumps have enough fluid, any suggestions?


----------



## BiggLess31

:biggrin:


----------



## turbospirites

> _Originally posted by ghettoslick1_@Jul 3 2008, 03:51 AM~11003761
> *i have a 87 fleetwood broughm and i wanna run 12" cylinders coil over with power balls and also at this time im not doing a chain bridge what i need to know is are my cylinders gonna hit my 6x9 speakers thanks for your time homies
> *


you shouldn't have a problem unless you have less than four turns on the coils on the rear.


----------



## down79

Anyone know what would be a good length for some upper trailing arms?I broke my old ones on my 79 cutlass. I am only needing the length to 3 wheel.What would be an ideal length??


----------



## slamit1964

question?-is there a site that can explane and or show the proper way to use the switch box without messing shit up?


----------



## DuezPaid

> _Originally posted by scrappinsan_@Jul 20 2008, 10:52 PM~11136345
> *also I am fixing to either buy a se1072 or the street charger I talk to the guy at street charger and he said me driving to work and home like 20 minutes one way  would keep my batteries charged or should I go with the se1072 and forget about it
> *


I ran a 12v charger to the main car battery and had a street charger with a switch to make it stay on charging the hydraulic batteries. That way you get a full charge and a charge when your driving.


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by scrappinsan_@Jul 20 2008, 09:46 PM~11136299
> *I have just  traded for a nissan hardbody with a 4 pump 4 dump setup 8 batteries , 48 volts 2 banks , I have a couple of questions it has a 16 switch switch box wondering if anyone knows what switch does what it looks like a prewired box from cce but I found no layout of the switches without tracing the wires also I was looking into buying a eai chrome 7 switch prewired switchbox just curious if it would work for hydros I have used these in the past for air ride but been a while for hydros any help would be greatly appreciated here is a pic of the truck and switchbox I want to switch too 16 switches is a little much for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I WONT USE THAT SWICTH BOX FROM EAI I HAVE THAT SAME BOX BUT IN BLACK IN A BAGGED HONDA AND THE SWITCHES GET STUCK ALOT THATS NOT GOOD WITH HYDROS DONT DO IT :biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## ghettoslick1

> _Originally posted by turbospirites_@Jul 31 2008, 07:18 AM~11222998
> *you shouldn't have a problem unless you have less than four turns on the coils on the rear.
> *


thanks homie for your time good now i can keep my 6*9 :biggrin:


----------



## KAKALAK




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## dirty_duece




----------



## 86bluemcLS

i have oil in my motor what can cause this its leaking inside near the key where the motor meets the block and i burnt my motor had alot of oil inside it was coming out the long bolts to hold the motor down lol :roflmao:


----------



## michaeljames

I am as new as it gets to hydraulics, I have worked in a pontiac garage for bout 6 years now but theyres not alot of hydro's rollin in ontario Canada. I just gave my 91 caprice to my lil bro cuz he needs it more than I do, and I want to locate a cheap 94-96 fleetwood. right now I'm just trying to learn everything I can about hydraulics in general. I think I wanna piece a system togethor and learn how to rebuild some of this ish if I can since I wanna learn and I'm good with tools but I still dont understand or see a basic guide to hydraulics...I need a pump, which is attached to the motor, ie allows the pump to push fluid right? to what the cylinders right? than theres a reserve tank for oil, this is attached to the pump? and than I need how many dumps just to do front and back? 
the cylinders are in the wheel assembly where the shocks would normally be right? why do you need two pumps instead of one or the same with dumps. I dont have much knowledge, even less info available, but I am gonna do this. I think its more feasable to piece a system togethor because I can chip in on it cheque to cheque, and do my own work plus these kits get pretty expensive even in basic form and I think theyre must be alot of mark up to them. when I build engines, I piece'em togethor so maybe thats why I feel better this way. any advice bro's? also one last question, all the reading on hydraulic systems I read, they talk about these things moving in slow terms, slow ie 150 gallons per MINUTE but how does this all break down to making your car hop in a second? a friend told me to break down the gallons per hour in 60 seconds and go from there but even then it dosent make sense right now.


----------



## DUVAL

:uh:


----------



## Julio C.

* :biggrin: :biggrin: Is there another way to hit a standing three wheel without putting any weight on the back. I have a 79' Linc cont. 




Originally posted by LayItLow@Mar 9 2007, 09:08 PM~7447529
The old FAQ (which most people probably don't find in the tech section) definitely needs to be added to so feel free to reply to this topic and with your suggestions, additions, links to other helpful topics, etc.

We'll let this topic run for awhile and then when there is enough good information I'll get it compiled in a clean format and pinned back to the top of this forum.

--------

Q. The motor spins but the car doesn't go up. 
A. The oil level in the tank may be too low. You might have a broken key. There may be a bad check valve or dump valve. The motor could be spinning the wrong direction. The pump head could be blown, broken or have a leaky or cracked seal. The pump head seal to block could be leaking or the pump head is not tight enough on the block. If you have a pressure relief valve it could be set for too low of a pressure. 

Q. The car goes up but will not come back down. 
A. Make sure the slow down valves are not closed all the way. The dumps may be pressure locked - relieve the pressure by temporarily loosening the hose fitting and then, next time, don't lay on the switch so long or buy some high quality dumps to prevent future pressure locks. 

Q. One side of the car goes up slower than the other.
A. Check your fluid levels and bleed the hoses. It's also possible a bent cylinder or something else is causing more resistance. If your pumps are hooked to separate banks of batteries, check that all batteries are fully charged. 

Q. How do you bleed the hoses? 
A. First raise the car so there is pressure in all your hoses. You bleed one hose at a time and can start with any cylinder, it doesn't matter. Get a rag and cup it around the cylinder so oil wont get every where. With a wrench, SLOWLY start to unloosen the hose where it connects to the cylinder fitting. When fluid starts to come out, let it bleed until you see no more air bubbles in it or the milky color is gone. Then tighten it back up. Repeat at each cylinder. 

Q. A solenoid sticks open and the motor keeps running or burns out. 
A. Low batteries! Improperly grounded solenoids. Too many or not enough solenoids (a good rule of thumb is 3 high quality 12v solenoids per pump). Motor armature could be shorting internally, brush plate insulators could be burned up and melted, the commutor could be wrapped around shorting the motor and drawing excessive amps causing the solenoids to burn out prematurely. 

Q. I hear a grinding noise while the car is lifting.
A. Low oil level. With the car fully dumped, fill the tank so the oil level is 1" below the filler hole. 

Q. What type of oil should I use in my pumps?
A. Hydraulic Oil 68 or 10W30 non-detergent motor oil. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is not recommended but can be used to speed things up, however, be prepared for more leaks and bad seals in the future. 

Q. What's a frame wrap and how is it done?
A. The short and sweet answer is steel (usually 3/16" or 1/4" thick) simply welded along some or all sides of the vehicles frame. Either the entire frame is wrapped or just some of the problem areas, such as the cross member and the rear humps over the axle. It is done with an experienced welder that knows what he is doing! 

Q. How do you three wheel and why can't I get it to? 
A. Fully raise all four cylinders and then dump a rear corner. If the car is capable of a three wheel then the front corner opposite of the dumped rear corner will come off the ground. The more weight in the dumped corner, the better. This is one reason you'll usually see the batteries stored in the rear corners of the trunk. If you can't do a standing three, you may be able to do a rolling three: While driving (in a safe, legal and off-road area, of course) and with the car fully raised drop a rear corner and at the same time do a sharp turn to the opposite direction of the corner you dropped. For example, start turning to the left and drop the right rear corner - the front left wheel should come off the ground. If you've tried all this and you still can't three wheel, you'll probably need taller rear cylinders, more weight, more pumps (at least one to each rear cylinder is recommended for 3 wheeling), or even a different car - the balance and design of yours may not be able to three wheel.


Click to expand...

*


----------



## Lo_N_Lavish

> _Originally posted by SinCityFleet94_@Jul 20 2008, 05:59 AM~11131054
> *i was planning on keeping my ride stock and just throw some 14s on it, but at the same time i wanna juice it up...will i get clowned on for not being juiced and having 14s on...
> *


no; just keep your car clean


----------



## Fredo

I'm new to hydros and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I put my set in. I have a 64 impala coupe and I want to hop. I would like a high quality system, and it seems like the more flexibility I want, the more pumps I need. How do I determine what I need to buy? How big of cylinders can I put in before it starts to be a problematic? I've also been looking at switch layouts. It seems to me that hopping is possible only by operating four switches at once, the two pumps and two dumps. Am I missing something?. I must be right, because how would you drive while hitting that switches? Thanks.


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by Fredo_@Sep 12 2008, 12:06 AM~11582790
> *I'm new to hydros and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I put my set in. I have a 64 impala coupe and I want to hop. I would like a high quality system, and it seems like the more flexibility I want, the more pumps I need. How do I determine what I need to buy? How big of cylinders can I put in before it starts to be a problematic? I've also been looking at switch layouts. It seems to me that hopping is possible only by operating four switches at once, the two pumps and two dumps. Am I missing something?. I must be right, because how would you drive while hitting that switches? Thanks.
> *


your missing alot homie, just one switch to hop.. four switches is all you will ever need unless your trying to build a dancer.


----------



## lowlow619

ok. here's the deal. I have a 94 fleetwood. 14" cylinders in the rear. 2 pump 6 batteries. I already tried turning too. but it seems like the rear doesn't go down far enough. :dunno:


----------



## lowlow619

> _Originally posted by SinCityFleet94_@Jul 20 2008, 02:59 AM~11131054
> *i was planning on keeping my ride stock and just throw some 14s on it, but at the same time i wanna juice it up...will i get clowned on for not being juiced and having 14s on...
> *


Who cares what everyone thinks. It's not their ride.


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## lowlow619

whats a chain bridge? pic?


----------



## AndrewH

> _Originally posted by lowlow619_@Sep 16 2008, 03:47 PM~11617929
> *whats a chain bridge? pic?
> *



spring pockets in the rear are connectec with a corrmember in the rear, chains are connected to it, in different points for different purposes, anywhere from levering a car into a 3 wheel, to making the rear stiff for hopping.


----------



## RALPH_DOGG

> _Originally posted by dirty_duece_@May 17 2008, 12:34 AM~10674711
> *whats up ralph_dogg??
> *


what up dirty...??? you like the san angelo show...???


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by RALPH_DOGG_@Sep 29 2008, 08:21 PM~11733783
> *what up dirty...??? you like the san angelo show...???
> *


i didnt get to go these other guys went they said it was pretty cool did you go??


----------



## cholosinbarrio

I just got a lowrider with hydros, first it was working fine but now when i hit the switches they just make a click sound. HELP! ......... AYUDA!........


----------



## DUVAL

:0


----------



## dirty_duece

> _Originally posted by cholosinbarrio_@Oct 11 2008, 09:22 PM~11841099
> *I just got a lowrider with hydros, first it was working fine but now when i hit the switches they just make a click sound.  HELP! ......... AYUDA!........
> *


check your soleniods homie


----------



## GsrCrx

Ok i have a couple of questions, on a 97 lincoln town car with 14's daytons and hydros, whats the highest speed you can go to on a long trip on the highway??? also, what is the difference on a regular pump and a piston pump and what are the advantages and disadvantages???? thank you


----------



## ridin_low_4_life

im new to the "adjustable suspension" but i have done alot of resaerch about hydros and bags..so i kno a lil bit but i do have a few questioons that could use an answer..if anybody can answer them that would be great..

1 when u put the cylinders in does there need to be springs and how are they setup in there(pics would real helpful)

2 if i dont plan on hoppin..jus lifting and laying do i need to reinforce the arms at all

3 how do selenoids work and y r they used

thanks in advance to any answers given


----------



## gasman

well to answer your question yes i do believe that u need springs. the springs is what keep the body up. meaning the springs is what holds it up when u dump the car all the way down. 2nd answer is u don't have to reinforce the arms or anything u don't even have to reinforce your frame but its highly recomended if u want your car to last and not break down.


----------



## GsrCrx

Ok i have a couple of questions, on a 97 lincoln town car with 14's daytons and hydros, whats the highest speed you can go to on a long trip on the highway??? also, what is the difference on a regular pump and a piston pump and what are the advantages and disadvantages???? thank you


----------



## droptoutzx2

ive been up to speeds of 75-80 but i am running accums also


----------



## mundo

I'm having a little trouble. Left front corner keeps dropping, but i have no leaks. If I take the pin off the dump & blow it out with air it holds pressure for a while. Once I lay it down for a few minutes then hit the switch again, starts to lose pressure again. Just wondering if any body has any advise, thanks. (By the way i'm running square delta dumps)


----------



## gasman

hey 'mundo' try checking your check valve maybe it keeps dumping the oil back into the pumps


----------



## 67juiced

What is the tallest cylinder I can use on the rear of my 67 Impala Converible? With them mounted on the rear trailing arms. Im asking cause I want the highth without the cylinders hitting the top when its down. Thanks


----------



## Nor. cali-lowlows

Im tired been workin on tha lac all day. got tha set up all done hit the switch and nothin. some body give me something. 2 pumps 4 dumps 6 batteries. ???? :dunno:


----------



## Richard Slapson

i have the prohopper mach 3 springs:

http://www.catalog.prohopper.com/index.php?cPath=24_233

i cut two turns off of them (now 5 turns)

and when i put them in my cutlass (3.8 v6) it wont dump down i have no play in the coils. do i need to have them compressed or what?


----------



## triple X level

> _Originally posted by GueroRegal_@Nov 4 2008, 07:33 PM~12062537
> *i have the prohopper mach 3 springs:
> 
> http://www.catalog.prohopper.com/index.php?cPath=24_233
> 
> i cut two turns off of them (now 5 turns)
> 
> and when i put them in my cutlass (3.8 v6) it wont dump down i have no play in the coils. do i need to have them compressed or what?
> *


do you have reg cups or deep cups on the car, another thing you can do is 
get a bunch of people to push on the front of the car to get the front moving then hit the switch the car should start hopping you should be fine after


----------



## Richard Slapson

> _Originally posted by milkweed_@Nov 7 2008, 12:36 AM~12087931
> *do you have reg cups or deep cups on the car, another thing you can do is
> get a bunch of people to push on the front of the car to get the front moving  then hit  the switch the car should start hopping    you should be fine after
> *


regular cups. do you mean have people push down on the car as i hit the switch to pump it up?


----------



## triple X level

> _Originally posted by GueroRegal_@Nov 7 2008, 12:45 PM~12091131
> *regular cups. do you mean have people push down on the car as i hit the switch to pump it up?
> *



yes this will help get the car hopping and break in the coils


----------



## Richard Slapson

> _Originally posted by milkweed_@Nov 8 2008, 11:22 PM~12103244
> *yes this will help get the car hopping and break in the coils
> *


thanks 
:thumbsup:


----------



## SWITCH_TALKIN

If your batteries are low and you need to raise the car how do you do that? i've heard u can raise it with jumper cables....if so how?


----------



## youcantfademe

jump the 24v battery with some jumper cables directly to the motor stud. touch it momentarily , allowing the car to raise up......


----------



## OJ Hydraulics

how do you out a slip yoke on your car???/


----------



## r8dr47

i had a few questions...

Q1. when i 3wheel my cutlass, my brakes always seem to sink til i dump it all the way down..what could that be???

Q2. what are the tricks or techniques of lowering a car??? i wanted my car to drive, lay, and play..right now, when dumped, it only drops to a driveable height if anything goes wrong with my cylinders/dump, etc..but i wanted to lay my front and rear..i have 8" cylinders up front and 14" cylinders in the rear with a pair of prohopper shocks/struts..what would i actually need to get and do to get my car laid out???

Q3. i was looking at my cutlass a couple days ago and was wondering, when i do want to work on my cars stance, how do i change out the cup to a reverse cup???

Q4. would it be possible to run a chain bridge even if im running shocks/struts or would it be useless??? lol [pretty stupid question]

Q5. accumulators..how is it installed, and do i need to pick it up as a full set for my front or can i just pick up the pre-charged accumulator itself along with the fittings??? or would i need to buy the accumulator shut-off kit????


thanks for your time..


----------



## Psycho631

> _Originally posted by r8dr47_@Dec 2 2008, 06:59 AM~12310251
> *i had a few questions...
> 
> Q1. when i 3wheel my cutlass, my brakes always seem to sink til i dump it all the way down..what could that be???
> 
> Q2. what are the tricks or techniques of lowering a car??? i wanted my car to drive, lay, and play..right now, when dumped, it only drops to a driveable height if anything goes wrong with my cylinders/dump, etc..but i wanted to lay my front and rear..i have 8" cylinders up front and 14" cylinders in the rear with a pair of prohopper shocks/struts..what would i actually need to get and do to get my car laid out???
> 
> Q3. i was looking at my cutlass a couple days ago and was wondering, when i do want to work on my cars stance, how do i change out the cup to a reverse cup???
> 
> Q4. would it be possible to run a chain bridge even if im running shocks/struts or would it be useless??? lol [pretty stupid question]
> 
> Q5. accumulators..how is it installed, and do i need to pick it up as a full set for my front or can i just pick up the pre-charged accumulator itself along with the fittings??? or would i need to buy the accumulator shut-off kit????
> thanks for your time..
> *




1. :dunno: 

2. cut more coil off to lower it

3. power balls

4. no need for chains on a g-body if you have 14'' cylinders

5. their installed inline on the pressure side and you do not need them for the front, it gives you a weird ride if installed on the front

:biggrin:


----------



## H&H




----------



## Diskovod

Hey people.
Is there something like introducing hydraulics tech and building from scratch? I mean, I'm from St. Petersburg, Russia, so I guess, the nearest lowrider man is "badass 64" from Stockholm, so I gotta take the tech on my own.
I'm willing to kick some hydro on 1973 Caprice Classic Coupe that I've found some time ago. I've read the FAQ, some topics and stuff, but is there something telling out the magic of building your own hydraulics? (not in a shop)


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by Diskovod_@Dec 13 2008, 11:52 PM~12424590
> *Hey people.
> Is there something like introducing hydraulics tech and building from scratch? I mean, I'm from St. Petersburg, Russia, so I guess, the nearest lowrider man is "badass 64" from Stockholm, so I gotta take the tech on my own.
> I'm willing to kick some hydro on 1973 Caprice Classic Coupe that I've found some time ago. I've read the FAQ, some topics and stuff, but is there something telling out the magic of building your own hydraulics? (not in a shop)
> *


Yes, there's a book you can get called "The Science of Hydraulics" that is pretty thorough. If I find a link to it I'll post it


----------



## KAKALAK

> _Originally posted by youcantfademe_@Nov 26 2008, 10:34 PM~12268844
> *jump the 24v battery with some jumper cables directly to the motor stud. touch it momentarily , allowing the car to raise up......
> *


put a nut on it 1st, so you dont melt the threads


----------



## OJ Hydraulics

will caddy frme fit a caprice landau?


----------



## blkvatonda93caddy

ok im not talking bout customer service here im talkin about the quality of the pumps between pro hopper and bmh would makes the better pumps?


----------



## blkvatonda93caddy

cuz my customer service from pro hopper sucked and i only ordered pro balls and heavy duty ball joints and the took forever then i called and to make up for the inconvience they will send accessories i didnt get shit. just tryin to figure out what would be best to go in the trunk of a cadillac fleetwood


----------



## LowLyfeCC

How do you know if your dump is backwards before you plumb it???


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

Wow.......I see I'm missing very little in this section.


----------



## LowLyfeCC

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Dec 31 2008, 09:59 AM~12568660
> *Wow.......I see I'm missing very little in this section.
> *


You're so freaking cool. :uh:


----------



## blkvatonda93caddy

what number g-force II pump heads do pro hopper run in their competition pumps?


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by LowLyfeCC_@Dec 31 2008, 02:28 PM~12570636
> *You're so freaking cool. :uh:
> *


There's a pretty cool feature on this site and millions of others, it's commonly referred to as "SEARCH"

Use it.......


----------



## mikey moe

digram for 3 pumps 14 batterys 

2banks of 4 and 6across the back


----------



## lowridermovement

HEY ANYBODY HAVE ADVICE OR KNOW ABOUT THE SLIP YOKE ON A BIG BODY CADDY AM ABOUT TO JUICE THE REAR WITH SOME 14"CYLINDERS ???


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by lowridermovement_@Feb 18 2009, 01:15 PM~13040273
> *HEY ANYBODY HAVE ADVICE OR KNOW ABOUT THE SLIP YOKE ON A BIG BODY CADDY AM ABOUT TO JUICE THE REAR WITH SOME 14"CYLINDERS ???
> *


you cut as much as you put on, and dont forget to get some adjustable upper trailing arms to keep your pinion angle straight.


----------



## VvOoIoOvV

I'm trying to change the seals on my ProHopper Pro-x pump. Does anybody know a site or can give me any info on how to do it? I hvae to change three seals and the main reason why I'm changing them in because I'm getting oil leaking out of my pump motor. I took the motor cap of and the blackest oil poured out. How do I clean the oil out of it? carburator cleaner?
Thanks


----------



## gasman

and when u cut your drive shaft a little bit from my experience it works but dang u can only drive locked up or lowered and nothing else. you can but it will vibrate without a ajustable driveshaft well at least for a g body. getting that pinion angle right is hard


----------



## BigPoppa

Question-buddy has hook up his front CCE system with 1 pump, 2 Optimas, 2 solenoids (waiting on welding to set up the rest).

The motor keeps running so he has to disconnect it-he has extra solenoids so he swapped them out but it didn't fix the problem-any other ideas?


----------



## Guest

> _Originally posted by BigPoppa_@Mar 17 2009, 01:14 PM~13305114
> *Question-buddy has hook up his front CCE system with 1 pump, 2 Optimas, 2 solenoids (waiting on welding to set up the rest).
> 
> The motor keeps running so he has to disconnect it-he has extra solenoids so he swapped them out but it didn't fix the problem-any other ideas?
> *


sounds like his switch is staying stuck, check that out


----------



## RALPH_DOGG

stupid question: all my boys, n everyone i've ever known used motor oil, now i hear poeple using a blend of motor/tranny oil, i hear some people saying (and i've read) that its a hydraulic system use only hydraulic oil. what is really the best, well...i wouldn't say the best...???

what performs better, what are you supposed to use, and what are the reasons for using the oil that is beign used...???


----------



## RALPH_DOGG

another stupid question, is a wishbone only for "X-frame" vehicles...???


----------



## BIG DIRTY

> _Originally posted by RALPH_DOGG_@Mar 22 2009, 09:22 AM~13352089
> *another stupid question, is a wishbone only for "X-frame" vehicles...???
> *


FOR TURKEYS FOOL


----------



## Capital J

question... how do i buckle a frame.. or tell how a frame is buckled???


----------



## El Porky

> _Originally posted by RALPH_DOGG_@Mar 22 2009, 08:22 AM~13352089
> *another stupid question, is a wishbone only for "X-frame" vehicles...???
> *


Thats what I was wondering


----------



## El Duez

^^^ Its to eliminate the panhard bar used on x-frames. G-body and chit use upper and lower trailing arms in a v shape to keep the axle in line.


----------



## PANIC-5150

QUICK ? IM ABOUT TO CONNNECT MY BROTHER INLAWS SWITCHES ITS PRE WIRED ALREADY WHICH WIRE GOES WERE ? BROWN? ORANGE? ETC... THANKS HOMIES


----------



## PANIC-5150

> _Originally posted by PANIC-5150_@Apr 9 2009, 05:32 PM~13531678
> *QUICK ? IM ABOUT TO CONNNECT MY BROTHER INLAWS SWITCHES ITS PRE WIRED ALREADY WHICH WIRE GOES WERE ? BROWN? ORANGE? ETC... THANKS HOMIES
> *



NEVER MIND I FOUND DA LINK
:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:


----------



## byrd

I HAVE 2 OLD SCHOOL WATERMAN DUMPS AND TWO O.G. HYDROAIR DUMPS FROM THE AIRFORCE IF YOU WANT TO SEE PICKS OR TALK GIVE ME A CALL AT 754-366-1953 OR E-MAIL [email protected]


----------



## KAKALAK

:0


----------



## 817Lowrider




----------



## MAKAKO1969

how can i check my selenoids to make sure there still good or not?


----------



## MADD_TRUK_DRIVA

CAN RIDING AROUND LOCKED UP OR JUST HAVING HYDROS MESS UP A TRANNY? MY TRANNY WILL NOT GO INTO GEAR. FORWARD OR REVERSE. I NEVER DID ANYTHING TO MY DRIVESHAFT. BEEN RIDING JUICED FOR 3 YEARS PLUS....I HEAR ABOUT CUTTING AN INCH OFF OR GETTING A TELESCOPING DRIVESHAFT, BUT DID I MURDER MY TRANSMISSION?? DAMN....IF I DID, OOOH WEEE, I'M SO SORRY BABY, 4L60'S ARE SO HARD TO COME BY THESE DAYS....DAMMIT....WELL....I GOTTA GET THIS THING REPLACED ASAP. BUT YOU LIVE, YOU LEARN....DO NOT LEAVE OUT YOUR DRIVESHAFT FOLKS....BUT HEY, WHO IS THIS GUY ON HERE WHO DOES THE TELESCOPING DRIVESHAFTS? I NEED TO GET INTO TOUCH WITH HIM REAL BAD....BOY THIS ECONOMY....REALLY MESSED UP....GOTTA PUT UP 2 WEEKS PAY TO GET THE TRANNY, AND THEN??? HOW MUCH IS THE TELESCOPING D/S? OH THIS IS A 92 BROUGHAM AND THE REAR TRAILING ARMS HAVE BEEN EXTENDED....HELL I JUST LOVE RIDING WITH THE BACK END HIGH SO THEY CAN SEE MY BOOTY(BUMPER KIT)...
DAMMIT YALL....THIS THANG....THIS THANG RIGHT HERE.....THIS HERE? AINT NUTHIN IN THE WORLD LIKE TURNING THEY HEADS WHEN YOU COME UP THE STREET.....LONG AND BEAUTIFUL.....AND LOW......AND ALL OF A SUDDEN....ZZZZZZPT!! THE FRONT END GOES UP....DAMMIT!!!! LOW-4-LIFE....ALL RIGHTS RESERVED....2009


----------



## lomation

anyone know why my car doesn't sound like the cars in the movies, how do you get that awesome sound. My car sounds like shit was breaking most of the time, maybe it was. But I really like the sounds from videos and movies. I thought it was just hollywood shit than this car on speeders in vegas sounded like that. is it those old school setups or what?


----------



## G&CWireWheels




----------



## SKEETER

ttt


----------



## youcantfademe

:0


----------



## the natural

> _Originally posted by MADD_TRUK_DRIVA_@May 11 2009, 08:12 PM~13857399
> *CAN RIDING AROUND LOCKED UP OR JUST HAVING HYDROS  MESS UP A TRANNY?  MY TRANNY WILL NOT GO INTO GEAR. FORWARD OR REVERSE. I NEVER DID ANYTHING TO MY DRIVESHAFT. BEEN RIDING JUICED FOR 3 YEARS PLUS....I HEAR ABOUT CUTTING AN INCH OFF OR GETTING A TELESCOPING DRIVESHAFT, BUT DID I MURDER MY TRANSMISSION?? DAMN....IF I DID, OOOH WEEE, I'M SO SORRY BABY, 4L60'S ARE SO HARD TO COME BY THESE DAYS....DAMMIT....WELL....I GOTTA GET THIS THING REPLACED ASAP. BUT YOU LIVE, YOU LEARN....DO NOT LEAVE OUT YOUR DRIVESHAFT FOLKS....BUT HEY, WHO IS THIS GUY ON HERE WHO DOES THE TELESCOPING DRIVESHAFTS? I NEED TO GET INTO TOUCH WITH HIM REAL BAD....BOY THIS ECONOMY....REALLY MESSED UP....GOTTA PUT UP 2 WEEKS PAY TO GET THE TRANNY, AND THEN??? HOW MUCH IS THE TELESCOPING D/S? OH THIS IS A 92 BROUGHAM AND THE REAR TRAILING ARMS HAVE BEEN EXTENDED....HELL I JUST LOVE RIDING WITH THE BACK END HIGH SO THEY CAN SEE MY BOOTY(BUMPER KIT)...
> DAMMIT YALL....THIS THANG....THIS THANG RIGHT HERE.....THIS HERE? AINT NUTHIN IN THE WORLD LIKE TURNING THEY HEADS WHEN YOU COME UP THE STREET.....LONG AND BEAUTIFUL.....AND LOW......AND ALL OF A SUDDEN....ZZZZZZPT!! THE FRONT END GOES UP....DAMMIT!!!! LOW-4-LIFE....ALL RIGHTS RESERVED....2009
> *



i dont think the hydros messed up your trans prob just went i had a 83 delta with 16" cylinders id hit the fan shroud when locked up :biggrin: drove it daily for 5yrs . try a salvage or buy a parts car if you wana get the most for you buck. good luck homie....


----------



## Windex

I wana run accumulators in the rear with no coils, can i still do a coil over setup with no coils?


----------



## Jose 420

I heard that I can only run a CCE motors in my CCE setup but im having a hard time beliving this, is it true?


----------



## AyceeKay

If i get a 1 pump setup in 87 cutlass, front-back-pancake. Will i really need to reinforce the frame?


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by AyceeKay_@Jun 23 2009, 12:35 PM~14273091
> *If i get a 1 pump setup in 87 cutlass, front-back-pancake. Will i really need to reinforce the frame?
> *


No


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

i just got this pump and its a bit wierd looking. the motor looks like a normal one but it has sort of a raise in the center. does anyone know what kind of pump it is??


----------



## PLANETGETLOW

> _Originally posted by RAIDERSEQUAL_@Jun 25 2009, 11:36 PM~14302450
> *i just got this pump and its a bit wierd looking. the motor looks like a normal one but it has sort of a raise in the center. does anyone know what kind of pump it is??
> *


Pics would help


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Jun 26 2009, 06:33 AM~14304301
> *Pics would help
> *


i dont have a camera


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

nevermind, i got it figured out


----------



## BIGG-USO

does anybody have a pics of how to plumb one dump to my front pump


----------



## 66LOW

:worship:


----------



## SHY-ONE




----------



## woody_oc

replacing the motor on my pump. just the 2 bolts or is there more to it?


----------



## Volv_lo

http://www.highgravity-productions.com/


----------



## Volv_lo

> _Originally posted by woody_oc_@Jul 6 2009, 11:26 PM~14398321
> *replacing the motor on my pump. just the 2 bolts or is there more to it?
> *



two bolts


----------



## CALI2NY

I TAP THE SWITCH TO THE FRONT AND I DOSENT STOP RAISING TILL I DUMP IT.COULD THIS B LOW BATTERY'S.THANKS FOR ANY HELP.


----------



## cuz 64

need help have a 84 g body wit 1 piston pump 1o bat. 2 it and it still wont hit back bumper no moter or trans. have add wait 2 front but still no good


----------



## Volv_lo

> _Originally posted by CALI2NY_@Jul 8 2009, 02:30 PM~14413039
> *I TAP THE SWITCH TO THE FRONT AND I DOSENT STOP RAISING TILL I DUMP IT.COULD THIS B LOW BATTERY'S.THANKS FOR ANY HELP.
> *



It very much could be.... low voltage = slow reaction times, but most times low batteries don't even raise the car, the solenoids just click rapidly..


----------



## AndrewH

> _Originally posted by CALI2NY_@Jul 8 2009, 01:30 PM~14413039
> *I TAP THE SWITCH TO THE FRONT AND I DOSENT STOP RAISING TILL I DUMP IT.COULD THIS B LOW BATTERY'S.THANKS FOR ANY HELP.
> *


I'm going to guess the switch is sticking in the on position until you tap it back down.


----------



## cruz77

I need some help.I put the front down and when i went to put it up it didn't go up.The switch makes a hissing sound and when i went to take the ground off it made a spark.I changed the six prong switch and still the same thing???


----------



## CALI2NY

> _Originally posted by AndrewH_@Jul 9 2009, 11:42 AM~14423175
> *I'm going to guess the switch is sticking in the on position until you tap it back down.
> *


 THATS WHAT IT WAS HOMIE I CHECKED THE BATTERYS AND THEY WHERE STILL GOOD SO I STARTED TAPPING THE SWITCH WITH THE DISCONNECT UNPLUGGED OF COURSE AND THE SWITCH STICKS.IT WAS THE EXTENSION STICKING TO THE CCE BOX THERE IS A LITTLE NOTCH IN THE OUTER RING.I JUST HAD MY EXTENSION PUSHED TO FAR DOWN I GUESS. SHITS FINE NOW :biggrin:


----------



## Johnny562

When replacing a dump/s, do I need to remove the oil from the tank or just let it sit in the tank while I replace them? Basically, I don't want to make a huge mess.


----------



## sexy007

Michael Jackson T-shirts


----------



## sexy007

http://www.tradeshoes9.com/product_list.aspx?pcid=808


----------



## down79

anyone know where i can find a switch wireing diagram. 3 pumps..front back sides and rear corners


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

*I got a whammy tank going to the rear cylinders and a pump going to the front.When the rear is dumped,oil leaks inbetween the the block and tank(just on one side of the whammy) when i took off the motor from that same side, I found oil inside the motor.the motor still works good tho.


oh yea,when I tap the rear switch once,the leaking stops,but when I dump it,it starts to leak again :angry: Do I have a bad seal or something???*


----------



## RAIDERSEQUAL

anyone have any regular deep cups and reverse deep cups? i need some asap


----------



## 1WIKD79

HOW DO I HOOK UP THE ADEL DUMP BLACK MAGIC ............


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by NeNe_@Aug 4 2009, 08:06 PM~14676197
> *I got a whammy tank going to the rear cylinders and a pump going to the front.When the rear is dumped,oil leaks inbetween the the block and tank(just on one side of the whammy) when i took off the motor from that same side, I found oil inside the motor.the motor still works good tho.
> oh yea,when I tap the rear switch once,the leaking stops,but when I dump it,it starts to leak again  :angry: Do I have a bad seal or something???
> *


if u got oil in the motor, ur shaft seal needs to be replaced..are u sure the oil is leaking from the tank by the block and not oil just trickling down the motor on the block and to the tank...otherwise u probably have a pinched tank seal and that needs to be replaced as well


----------



## DJPOROUFESSOR

all this discussion is very helpful to a brother like me in New Zealand, just secured a one pump system that was in her 64 biscayne wagon and now going into my oldsmobile cutlass cruiser wagon...i know il be coming back here to learn as much as I can

thanks peoples


----------



## Sinful53

quick a d probably easy question to answer for most of you i havent been lifted in bout 10 years so im a lil rusty and cant figure it out i just put a 2 pump cce street setup in my 87 cutty coilover powerball im only running 4 batteries because i dont wanna keep replacing solinoids and other parts got 8s in front and 10s in rear and i cant hit 3 wheel do i need more batteries or is there something else that can be the problem ?


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by Sinful53_@Aug 31 2009, 03:29 PM~14937771
> *quick a d probably easy question to answer for most of you i havent been lifted in bout 10 years so im a lil rusty and cant figure it out i just put a 2 pump cce street setup in my 87 cutty coilover powerball im only running 4 batteries because i dont wanna keep replacing solinoids and other parts got 8s in front and 10s in rear and i cant hit 3 wheel do i need more batteries or is there something else that can be the problem ?
> *



you need more battery weight..3 in each corner..and youll need some taller cylinders like 12s which will get a little 3 wheel..better off with 14s...you wont be replacing solenoids as long as u buy quality solenoids like accumax/accurates...and u have a good stable ground...ive gone many years on a single set of 3 solenoids before...


----------



## eric6one9

I charged up my batteries and when I raised the front it kept going, then the motor kept spining. Any suggestions would help. Thanks


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by eric6one9_@Sep 3 2009, 12:18 AM~14966886
> *I charged up my batteries and when I raised the front it kept going, then the motor kept spining. Any suggestions would help. Thanks
> *


either a stuck solenoid to the pump, or the switch was stuck...disconnect the 24v switch wire..and tap the ground connections..if the car still goes up then its the solenoids for that pump...if not it might be the switch


----------



## eric6one9

Thanks man! Ima go try it right now. Thanks again!


----------



## eric6one9

I think the switch is sticking kuz I disconnected the 24v switch wire, and tappd the ground and nothing happend. So I connected the wire hit the switch and it kept raising again. Thanks for the help.


----------



## eric6one9

I searched on how to fix a stuck switch but I couldnt find it. Can any1 help me out please?


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by eric6one9_@Sep 4 2009, 09:58 AM~14979789
> *I think the switch is sticking kuz I disconnected the 24v switch wire, and tappd the ground and nothing happend. So I connected the wire hit the switch and it kept raising again. Thanks for the help.
> *



u cant fix a switch..it needs replacing..do urself a favor and purchase all new switches...get CARLING switches they last forever...im goin on 6 years with my 5


----------



## eric6one9

Awesome, Thanks for all the help man.


----------



## Sinful53

thanks kingfish ill try more batteries over the winter i did finally hit three on a turn but it wasnt high just wish i could park it on three


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by Sinful53_@Sep 4 2009, 04:40 PM~14983208
> *thanks kingfish ill try more batteries over the winter i did finally hit three on a turn but it wasnt high just wish i could park it on three
> *



you could take ur single back pump and do a single pump with 4 dumps and that will allow u individual control over the rear corners as if u had 3 pumps...just run some taller cylinders and u can lift one corner and the car should stand 3 no problem..also good idea to get the frame rails reinforce and the inside rails boxed in...makes the car stand a lot easier with a solid frame rails


----------



## cruz77

My car keeps going up crooked in the front.I have 2 pumps ,4 dumps and 4 batteries.


----------



## cruz77

My car keeps going up crooked in the front.It has 2 pumps,4 dumps and 4 batteries.


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

*Does antybody know if theres a way of getting burned motors fixed?? 



Like getting alternators rebuild but instead of alternators they'd be fixing burnt motors.* :cheesy:


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by NeNe_@Sep 8 2009, 12:26 PM~15014605
> *Does antybody know if theres a way of getting burned motors fixed??
> Like getting alternators rebuild but instead of alternators they'd be fixing burnt motors. :cheesy:
> *



ya they can be fixed...the parts are replaceable..if u go to a place that rebuilds starter motors or rebuilds electrical motors


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by cruz77_@Sep 8 2009, 11:59 AM~15014351
> *My car keeps going up crooked in the front.It has 2 pumps,4 dumps and 4 batteries.
> *



if the rear end isnt level the front is gonna come up unever..if the coils arent cut the same the front will come up uneven...


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 8 2009, 01:56 PM~15015471
> *ya they can be fixed...the parts are replaceable..if u go to a place that rebuilds starter motors or rebuilds electrical motors
> *




around how much do they charge???


----------



## rhr26

I have a 1982 Lincoln Mark VI and i Broke the upper rear control arm. What year/make/model lincoln-ford can i use to swap it out?


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by NeNe_@Sep 8 2009, 06:43 PM~15018537
> *around how much do they charge???
> *



shoot i had 2 brushes replaced and it cost me $22.00...im not sure what youre looking at to get a whole motor rebuilt considering you need the field coil and maybe brushplate


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 8 2009, 08:59 PM~15020416
> *shoot i had 2 brushes replaced and it cost me $22.00...im not sure what youre looking at to get a whole motor rebuilt considering you need the field coil and maybe brushplate
> *





well i got 2 motors i might want to get fixed..what do i tell them tho??? that i want to get my motor for a hydraulic pump rebuilt or wat?? cause i know they're going to look at me a little akward....most of the shops I know are paisa operated :cheesy: :biggrin:


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by NeNe_@Sep 8 2009, 09:52 PM~15021207
> *well i got 2 motors i might want to get fixed..what do i tell them tho??? that i want to get my motor for a hydraulic pump rebuilt or wat?? cause i know they're going to look at me a little akward....most of the shops I know are paisa operated  :cheesy:  :biggrin:
> *



well what brand motors..cuz basically u can rebuild them urself you just need the same parts...


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 9 2009, 01:10 AM~15023476
> *well what brand motors..cuz basically u can rebuild them urself you just need the same parts...
> *



just regular motors


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by NeNe_@Sep 9 2009, 10:47 AM~15026063
> *just regular motors
> *



then u should be fine having them rebuilt..i would just have one rebuilt first..cuz theres quite a few different field coil choices out there...


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Sep 9 2009, 11:16 AM~15026365
> *then u should be fine having them rebuilt..i would just have one rebuilt first..cuz theres quite a few different field coil choices out there...
> *




i'll take one this friday :biggrin:


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by NeNe_@Sep 9 2009, 11:30 AM~15026494
> *i'll take one this friday  :biggrin:
> *


there u go


----------



## RIDIN FOR LIFE

> _Originally posted by cruz77_@Sep 8 2009, 11:59 AM~15014351
> *My car keeps going up crooked in the front.It has 2 pumps,4 dumps and 4 batteries.
> *


bleed the lines


----------



## eash.2

i just bought a truck with switches.i had to redo the wiring cause it was all jacked up.the guy only had 3 switches on a 2 pump setup.i redone the wiring to for a 4 switch setup and i can dump each corner in the front but either front switch will raise the whole front.how do i get the left or right to run independently.also the truck is setup with a six link in the back and wont let the rear sides come down without putting it in a bind.

can anyone give me a hand on this ? thanks


----------



## the natural

> _Originally posted by DuezPaid_@Jun 18 2007, 10:32 AM~8126915
> *between the bumpers.
> *



thats the funnyest shit ive herd all day :cheesy:


----------



## the natural

:angry: cant stop car from staling when i hop dont matter if it a small hop 
or higher. got a 2barrel its a 75 cutty with a v8 

any ideas!


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by the natural_@Sep 21 2009, 06:49 PM~15145178
> *:angry:  cant stop car from staling when i hop dont matter if it a small hop
> or higher. got a 2barrel its a 75 cutty with a v8
> 
> any ideas!
> *


the carb is flooding...plain and simple...


----------



## cruz77

Will the 1997 tacoma rear end fit my 64 impala with skirts?


----------



## mr.dannyboy

What are the benefits of runnung your hoses straight into the cylinders -vs- running them with elbow?? I would think you avoid some friction loss, but dunno! :dunno:


----------



## soriano

NEED HELP MY REAR STOPPED GOING UP AND IT JUST CLICKS SO I CHANGED ALL MY SOLENOIDS AND IT STILL CLICKS ,BUT SOMETIMES IT SOUNDS LIKE IT WANTS TO GO UP AND THEN IT JUST START CLICKING AGAIN


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by mr.dannyboy_@Sep 30 2009, 02:31 PM~15230128
> *What are the benefits of runnung your hoses straight into the cylinders -vs- running them with elbow?? I would think you avoid some friction loss, but dunno! :dunno:
> *


really nothing at all...when ur cylinder extends the casing fills with oil..when u dump it the shaft pushes the fluid back out until the shaft is completely inside..so the fluid stops right at the top of the cylinder head...so the fluid that will be needed to extend ur cylinder, is basically whatever amount of fluid needed to fill the casing...so fluid is at the top of teh cylinder the whole time...i know someone who runs a straight fitting on one cylinder and a elbow on the other..front end lifts up evenly every time... so makes no difference really


----------



## 86 Limited

wuts the biggest size piston i can use in the rear of an 86 regal without going telescopic? could i run 14's with side ports or can i only get away with 12's and not have to take out the support bars for the trunk?


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by gangstaburban95_@Oct 10 2009, 10:15 PM~15322155
> *wuts the biggest size piston i can use in the rear of an 86 regal without going telescopic? could i run 14's with side ports or can i only get away with 12's and not have to take out the support bars for the trunk?
> *


12s depending on how little or how much coil u run..i got 16s in the back of mind, but ive made a modification that dont cost all but the gas shocks need for the trunk lid


----------



## 86 Limited

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Oct 10 2009, 09:45 PM~15322274
> *12s depending on how little or how much coil u run..i got 16s in the back of mind, but ive made a modification that dont cost all but the gas shocks need for the trunk lid
> *


always commin thru wit the info. ur the man fish


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by gangstaburban95_@Oct 10 2009, 11:08 PM~15322382
> *always commin thru wit the info. ur the man fish
> *


i just have a lot of time on my hands...lol


----------



## pinche chico

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Oct 12 2009, 10:33 AM~15331130
> *i just have a lot of time on my hands...lol
> *


or at least in one hand :0


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by pinche chico_@Oct 13 2009, 12:08 AM~15338867
> *or at least in one hand  :0
> *


but then id just have a lot in my other hand lol


----------



## [email protected]

keep burning the noid closest to the pump i have a 3 pump setup each pump has 3 noids. i replaced the one that burned which was the one closest to the motor but when i started hopping it started to stick again. The car is jumping pretty quick so i dont think its the batteries any ideas of what it could be.


----------



## GREEN86

I have a four pump 12 battery setup and I charged them up and now my front only clicks but doesn't go up I bought two new slonoids and notthing what could it be


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by GREEN86_@Oct 29 2009, 06:58 PM~15507928
> *I have a four pump 12 battery setup and I charged them up and now my front only clicks but doesn't go up I bought two new slonoids and notthing what could it be
> *


load test ur batteries..also its 3 solenoids per pump and if u only replaced 2 it could be the one u didnt replace needs to be..but load test ur batteries first..you may find one or more is bad


----------



## GREEN86

Yea Ill chk it out I think it's gonna be one of my batteries cuz I charge em all the way and I play for bout maybe 30 mins strong n they die quik so I think it's that


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by GREEN86_@Oct 30 2009, 03:05 PM~15515864
> *Yea Ill chk it out I think it's gonna be one of my batteries cuz I charge em all the way and I play for bout maybe 30 mins strong n they die quik so I think it's that
> *



good possibility


----------



## KAKALAK




----------



## guero317

We jumped the I's and only have fast acting but no power to it.... What am I supposed to do?


----------



## PooreBoy

witch is better air or hydro ?


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

> _Originally posted by PooreBoy_@Nov 16 2009, 12:06 PM~15679411
> *witch is better air or hydro ?
> *



*Hydros of course :twak: Its like you asking:Which is better,a tranny or a female?*


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

I got a leak on onse side of the whammy...took the motor out but theres wasnt any oil in it but i noticed oil was leaking from where the motor key goes....



does that mean I have a bad pressure seal or it my sheft seal..AGAIN?? :angry:


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by guero317_@Nov 14 2009, 12:42 PM~15664055
> *We jumped the I's and only have fast acting but no power to it.... What am I supposed to do?
> *



its not the Is. u need to jumper the S


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by BLVD Kreeper_@Nov 17 2009, 01:28 PM~15691900
> *I got a leak on onse side of the whammy...took the motor out but theres wasnt any oil in it but i noticed oil was leaking from where the motor key goes....
> does that mean I have a bad pressure seal or it my sheft seal..AGAIN??  :angry:
> *



bad shaft seal


----------



## BLVD Kreeper

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Nov 19 2009, 01:11 AM~15711474
> *bad shaft seal
> *



u sirious??? it was less than a week old


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by BLVD Kreeper_@Nov 19 2009, 08:57 AM~15712867
> *u sirious??? it was less than a week old
> *



only way oil to get into ur pump motor is if the shaft seal allows fluid to get by...get a replacement one and u some silicone in side the groove of where the seal seats into block..but u have to clean it first..or order up the bloof proof shaft seal from blackmagic..they are O ringed


----------



## shamrockshaker




----------



## new breed

Question: I was hoppin yestarday popped the trunk front motor was smokin and very hot.so when I went to tap it up it is draggin real bad does this mean the motor is goin out????or is out??


----------



## doublepumped

> _Originally posted by BLVD Kreeper_@Nov 16 2009, 04:25 PM~15682471
> *Hydros of course :twak:  Its like you asking:Which is better,a tranny or a female?
> *


haha my s10 was a tranny...bags and hydraulics that is :biggrin:


----------



## EighTies_MONTE

Hey wad up every body i'm trying to figure out what kind of pumps i have they are old school steel blocks and they are stamped with "MP" on the block and the motor and the block has these numbers on them N2-9900 K-65 if anyone can help me if they know the kind of set up i have i would really appreciate it....( never seen a set up with these stamped markings on it)


----------



## EighTies_MONTE

PM me if u might know what kind of set up it can be


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by new breed_@Dec 13 2009, 02:33 PM~15968398
> *Question: I was hoppin yestarday popped the trunk front motor was smokin and very hot.so when I went to tap it up it is draggin real bad does this mean the motor is goin out????or is out??
> *



take the motor out and clean it with hot soapy water...and take a fine sand paper or steel wool to the armatures copper section and spin it in ur hand to clean it up...


----------



## loco4

Hey homies I have a 3 pump 8 battery setup wit 4 switches when I dump my left side it 3s but my pump spins ,d continues to spin .......when I disconnect my quick disconnect and connect it back I have sparks comming from the quick disconnect wats goin on ??????


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by loco4_@Dec 28 2009, 11:43 PM~16117424
> *Hey homies I have a 3 pump 8 battery setup wit 4 switches when I dump my left side it 3s but my pump spins ,d continues to spin .......when I disconnect my quick disconnect and  connect  it back I have sparks comming from the quick disconnect wats goin on ??????
> *



a solenoid that goes to the pump in question is stuck open..need to replace all the ones goin to that pump with some accumax's


----------



## brian84corvette

any one have ever heard of dumps that run off of just 12 volts ?
im 90% shure the system ive got in my car right now is just using 12v to power the switch box / and the dumps 

my blocks say ultimate on them and its a 2 pump 4 dump setup.
have chrome tanks and motors that have slotted ends.
can post pix of the dumps in question,
so I can figure out if its ok to wire them to run 24v wich I believe is propper for them right ?


----------



## loco4

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Dec 29 2009, 07:07 PM~16126466
> *a solenoid that goes to the pump in question is stuck open..need to replace all the ones goin to that pump with some accumax's
> *


----------



## CA80deville

i just lifted my 80 sedan deville. before i did this it ran great! now it still starts and idles great, but when put in drive and a load is put on the motor it wont go and bogs down and wants to die. i can pump the gas like if i were gas hopping and get it up to speed. i am racking my brain on this. it has to be connected to lifting the car. i think a gas line is pinched. i have heard maybe the distributor slipped. i changed the fuel filter and no change. is there another fuel filter on the 1980 6.0 engine other than in the carb. has anyone else had this happen to them. i need some ideas. now i have a lifted car i cant drive.  :angry:


----------



## brian84corvette

pump up the car and put it on jack stands on some sturdy concrete surface. only then should you crawl under it to search out your fuel like routing. like you said - your looking for pinches in the lines - and also for a secondary filter in line somewhere. its entirely possible some one else may have added one anywhere on the car.

id also look in to having the timing checked by some one with the timing light and the knoledge of how it works. haha


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by CA80deville_@Dec 30 2009, 06:11 AM~16131482
> *i just lifted my 80 sedan deville. before i did this it ran great! now it still starts and idles great, but when put in drive and a load is put on the motor it wont go and bogs down and wants to die. i can pump the gas like if i were gas hopping and get it up to speed. i am racking my brain on this. it has to be connected to lifting the car. i think a gas line is pinched. i have heard maybe the distributor slipped. i changed the fuel filter and no change. is there another fuel filter on the 1980 6.0 engine other than in the carb. has anyone else had this happen to them. i need some ideas. now i have a lifted car i cant drive.    :angry:
> *



if u welded on the car with the battery still hooked up, u may have fried a part of the cars computer, but that doesnt happen too often


----------



## kustom_caddi88

> _Originally posted by CA80deville_@Dec 30 2009, 07:11 AM~16131482
> *i just lifted my 80 sedan deville. before i did this it ran great! now it still starts and idles great, but when put in drive and a load is put on the motor it wont go and bogs down and wants to die. i can pump the gas like if i were gas hopping and get it up to speed. i am racking my brain on this. it has to be connected to lifting the car. i think a gas line is pinched. i have heard maybe the distributor slipped. i changed the fuel filter and no change. is there another fuel filter on the 1980 6.0 engine other than in the carb. has anyone else had this happen to them. i need some ideas. now i have a lifted car i cant drive.    :angry:
> *


i kno on the 4d fleets theres one under the drivers passanger door but idk about a sedan...maybe ur timing is outa wack ??? :dunno:


----------



## CA80deville

my distributor is super tight. do you think it could have slipped anyway?? keep in mind the car was running great when i parked it to be lifted. we did the front and went to turn it around to do the back and it was fucked from then on. so far i have replaced a couple cracked vacuum hoses, did the plugs and wires and i have given everything i can see and think off the twice over.

i have not messed with the carb(other than the fuel filter), distributor or blown out the all metal fuel lines in case of clogs. im stuck homies!!!!!!  :dunno: :banghead:


----------



## LaidBacc Str8Vibin

i got a 91 cadillac brougham. planning on running a 2 pump setup to begin with (my first lowrider car). i wanna have it hoppin a little bit, but nothing of the charts, mostly want the regular front, back, side to side, lifting, and laying down. is it still necessary to fully wrap the frame?


----------



## LaidBacc Str8Vibin

wut size coils should i get for a cruiser? 2 or 3 ton?


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by LaidBacc Str8Vibin_@Jan 2 2010, 06:10 PM~16163521
> *i got a 91 cadillac brougham.  planning on running a 2 pump setup to begin with (my first lowrider car).  i wanna have it hoppin a little bit, but nothing of the charts, mostly want the regular front, back, side to side, lifting, and laying down.  is it still necessary to fully wrap the frame?
> *



definately would still reinforce teh frame at its stress points minimum

id probably run 3ton or 3.5 tons up front cuz its a heavy car with some softer ones in the rear


----------



## brian84corvette

currently my setup is 4 batterys @48v to the front and rear pumps

soon I can afford to purchace 4 new batterys to add to my car.
keeping the origonal 4 batts is a must for right now - and I can probably use them to power the rear pump ok. they are deka marine master & rv with 650cca and 850ca - the best of my ability to tell they are about 3.5 years old - and the previous owner of the car NEVER ever checked the water levels. I know this because I removed the stickers on the batterys myself to check and fill - between all 4 batterys it took a little bit over 1 liter of distilled water to fill em all back up properly.

long story short- my current batterys are not dead - but they do suck 
and purchacing 4 new deka batterys with better ratings like 1200ca and 1000cca - the big question is : IS IT OK TO WIRE UP DIFFRENT STYLES OF BATTERY IN THE SAME GROUP ? 
mainly I wish to run 60v to my front pump and either 36v or 48v to my rear - and would need to wire in at least one of the old batterys in with the new pack of 4 to achieve 60v - and id like to have some more reserve time - maby wiring in a battery in paralell or something to the front cause as it is now - I cant make it more than 2 hours drive "casualy" hittin switches along the way.

is wiring in diffrent batterys ( age and ratings ) a no no ?
and am I stuck purchacing 5 new batterys instead of 4 to get my 60v ?
and can I at least wire in my current 4 older batterys in for some more reserve time on the switch box ?

thanks in advance for any advice you can toss my way.
this is my rig - first car ive ever had hydros on -


----------



## olskl49

Im new to hydros 67 Impala drops side to side but wont come back up have to lift each corner seperatley


----------



## olskl49

is their a wiring diagram I can research I have 8 swiches


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by brian84corvette_@Jan 7 2010, 08:45 PM~16219499
> *currently my setup is 4 batterys @48v to the front and rear pumps
> 
> soon I can afford to purchace 4 new batterys to add to my car.
> keeping the origonal 4 batts is a must for right now - and I can probably use them to power the rear pump ok.  they are deka marine master & rv with 650cca and 850ca - the best of my ability to tell they are about 3.5 years old - and the previous owner of the car NEVER ever checked the water levels.  I know this because I removed the stickers on the batterys myself to check and fill - between all 4 batterys it took a little bit over 1 liter of distilled water to fill em all back up properly.
> 
> long story short-  my current batterys are not dead - but they do suck
> and purchacing 4 new deka batterys with better ratings like 1200ca and 1000cca - the big question is : IS IT OK TO WIRE UP DIFFRENT STYLES OF BATTERY IN THE SAME GROUP ? mainly I wish to run 60v to my front pump  and either 36v or 48v to my rear - and would need to wire in at least one of the old batterys in with the new pack of 4 to achieve 60v - and id like to have some more reserve time - maby wiring in a battery in paralell or something to the front cause as it is now - I cant make it more than 2 hours drive "casualy"  hittin switches along the way.
> 
> is wiring in diffrent batterys ( age and ratings ) a no no ?
> and am I stuck purchacing 5 new batterys instead of 4 to get my 60v ?
> and can I at least wire in my current 4 older batterys in for some more reserve time on the switch box ?
> 
> thanks in advance for any advice you can toss my way.
> this is my rig - first car ive ever had hydros on -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


no it's not good to run different batteries. If u buy the higher cca rated ones and put them with the lower ones. The batteries will operate at the lower rating. It's just best to replace with all new matching group 31's


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by olskl49_@Jan 13 2010, 08:22 PM~16282677
> *Im new to hydros 67 Impala drops side to side but wont come back up have to lift each corner seperatley
> *


the pump power wires aren't wired on the switch.


----------



## 619lowrider

may is a stupid question lol but i dont no ! 

my friend jose gift me a pair of 2000 town car reinforced a-arms my question is , this a-arms fit in my ma 1980 chevy el camino ?


----------



## Lac Rida

> _Originally posted by CA80deville_@Jan 1 2010, 11:57 PM~16159508
> *my distributor is super tight. do you think it could have slipped anyway?? keep in mind the car was running great when i parked it to be lifted. we did the front and went to turn it around to do the back and it was fucked from then on. so far i have replaced a couple cracked vacuum hoses, did the plugs and wires and i have given everything i can see and think off the twice over.
> 
> i have not messed with the carb(other than the fuel filter), distributor or blown out the all metal fuel lines in case of clogs. im stuck homies!!!!!!   :dunno:  :banghead:
> *


If you have a fuel injected model your fuel filter is under your air cleaner by the carb if not then your fuel filter should be underneath body rear of the frame behind driver side door before the frame arches. Mine is a 81 fleetwood 6.0 v8 Fuel injected 2 door not sure if it is located somewhere different for a 4 door. Is your car throwing any codes? There are a few sensor that could be bad that may cause it to run bad. If you have a chilton or haynes find out what codes it's throwing at you. Have you tried to disconnect the battery to reset the computer? Check fuel lines to see if it's kinked or pinched anywhere. Check the cap and rotor, vacuum lines, or injectors if it's Fuel injected they sit where the carb sits they might be clogged or gave out. Just some thoughts hope this helps you


----------



## Lac Rida

> _Originally posted by 619lowrider_@Jan 17 2010, 10:40 PM~16323116
> *may is a stupid question lol but i dont no !
> 
> my friend jose gift me  a pair of  2000 town car reinforced a-arms my question is , this a-arms fit in my ma 1980 chevy el camino ?
> *


I would say no not as a bolt right up because the towncar tubular a-arms are different from the solid one piece GM control arms but you can fabricate anything to fit just depends on how much you want to spend to do it. I would just go with a regular GM set of a-arms less hassle and made to fit right. Or go with a custom tubular a-arm made to fit your frame


----------



## 619lowrider

> _Originally posted by Lac Rida_@Jan 19 2010, 01:50 PM~16340829
> *I would say no not as a bolt right up because the towncar tubular a-arms are different from the solid one piece GM control arms but you can fabricate anything to fit just depends on how much you want to spend to do it. I would just go with a regular GM set of a-arms less hassle and made to fit right. Or go with a custom tubular a-arm made to fit your frame
> *


tanx for tha help broda :thumbsup:


----------



## Lac Rida

> _Originally posted by 619lowrider_@Jan 19 2010, 04:19 PM~16342751
> *tanx for tha help broda  :thumbsup:
> *


no problem brotha that what we are all here for to help each other out


----------



## NICE DREAMS




----------



## lancev

i just got this set up on my 76 buick i plane on using all new batteries but wondering if i extend tha upper trailing arms do i need to do tha lower as well.








what do u think


----------



## chihuahuita

what would be the best set up for a 1996 crown victoria street just lift and laye and 3 wheel?


----------



## CHUKO 39

i need help my car was getting up fine but this morning i went out to lock it up and it dont lift any more it just clicks and nothing the batts are charged up could it be a ground or the selonoids


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by CHUKO 39_@Feb 18 2010, 10:40 PM~16656878
> *i need help my car was getting up fine but this morning i went out to lock it up and it dont lift any more it just clicks and nothing the batts are charged up could it be a ground or the selonoids
> *


have the batteries load tested..if nothing works, more than likely u have a bad battery under a load and its preventing the setup from working


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by lancev_@Feb 4 2010, 01:33 AM~16507977
> *i just got this set up on my 76 buick i plane on using all new batteries but wondering if i extend tha upper trailing arms do i need to do tha lower as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do u think
> *


if u extend the uppers do them about 3/4 to 1 inch...leave the lowers alone until u find out how ur pinion angle sits when the car is layed out and as u lift it...extending the uppers will push the pumpkin upwards when the car is layed out...as u lift the rear the angle begins to correct itself


----------



## Demon1

What up people!


I got a 64 impala wagon, I just bought 6 new batterise since mine were dying after 3 years. My question is where can I find wiring for hooking the batteries togeather.


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by Demon1_@Feb 24 2010, 05:32 PM~16713897
> *What up people!
> I got a 64 impala wagon,  I just bought 6 new batterise since mine were dying after 3 years.  My question is where can I find wiring for hooking the batteries togeather.
> *




youll want to use welding wire....which u can get from any welding shop or puchase it online


----------



## Pure Perfection

i have a ? me and a friend of mine r gonna lift his 82 coupe deville and i was gonna ask if we put 12" cylinders in the rear is there ne adjustments will have 2 do 2 the driveshaft or nething eles??? and if we put 8's in the front how much should we extend the upper a-arms its not gonna b a hopper it probley b used more as a daily


----------



## Crystal Images

Just renforced the front cradlle and inner tie rod is hitting any suggestions on what to do its on a 81' regal  :dunno: :banghead:


----------



## BIGG-USO

hey king fish if i put 12's in the rear of my regal and extend the upper a inch am i good


----------



## Johnny562

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Feb 23 2010, 11:46 PM~16708831
> *have the batteries load tested..if nothing works, more than likely u have a bad battery under a load and its preventing the setup from working
> *



x2!!!


----------



## magic915

How do I know if I have to change the solonoids or how does it work? we just changed the motor for back pump I got 2 pumps 6 batteries and It makes a grinding noise when it goes up Im thinking its the oil but still If I were to change the cylinders or take them out to put like the seals for them how would I do it? Do I have to bleed the hoses first then lift the car and take them out or how? Cause Front/back cylinders are licking. Plz help.


----------



## SEAZ01

> _Originally posted by 1 LO 64_@Mar 11 2007, 10:50 AM~7454922
> *Q. Can I 3 wheel with 2 Pumps
> 
> A. You can 3 wheel with 2 Pumps, however it highly depends on different scenarios.
> The type of car and weight distribution
> 
> The amount of weight in your trunk {batteries/pumps}
> 
> The size cylinders you are running {should be 12's or higher in the rear}
> 
> How many dumps you are running
> 
> Your switch configuration
> 
> Chain bridged or not
> 
> Most X-Frame Impalas can 3 wheel very easily with the right weight in the trunk, typically 6 batteries or more, 3 in each bank. Some cars require more/less weight, a 3 or 4 link suspension, and most importantly a re-enforced frame.
> *


could i park 3wheel wit 12s in the back and 3 pumps?? only 3 dumps?? and 6batts??


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by Crystal Images_@Feb 26 2010, 11:07 PM~16738826
> *Just renforced the front cradlle and inner tie rod is hitting any suggestions on what to do its on a 81' regal    :dunno:  :banghead:
> *



what i did was mark the section of metal that hits the tie rods and then get a die grinder and grind away that little section that the rods hit...


or u can just unbolt the bottom bolt and loosent he top bolt that holds the tie rod on the passenger side and just drill a new bottom hole one hole distance towards the front of the frame..then re tighten ur bolts..that will pull the tie rod away from the front of the crossmember..but youll have to adjust ur tie rod to compensate for the movement....thats why i just took a air die grinder to the metal and in about 15 min the linkage clears the metal


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by SEAZ01_@Mar 19 2010, 01:00 PM~16937805
> *could i park 3wheel wit 12s in the back and 3 pumps?? only 3 dumps?? and 6batts??
> *



wrap the frame up and it will sit 3 nicer...i suggest running 14s in the rear for the standing 3 wheel...but depending on how much or how little coil u run in the rear the car may stand 3..but not an impressive one...


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by magic915_@Mar 18 2010, 10:08 AM~16926348
> *How do I know if I have to change the solonoids or how does it work? we just changed the motor for back pump I got 2 pumps 6 batteries and It makes a grinding noise when it goes up Im thinking its the oil but still If I were to change the cylinders or take them out to put like the seals for them how would I do it? Do I have to bleed the hoses first then lift the car and take them out or how? Cause Front/back cylinders are licking. Plz help.
> *


load test ur batteries..thats usually an indication its struggingly to get the voltage...if the batteries test good, then u need to replace the pumphead cuz its probably tightened too tight or hell it could even be loos and the gears have been chewed up from the pumphead sitting cockeyed or over tightened


----------



## SEAZ01

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Mar 20 2010, 12:49 AM~16943621
> *wrap the frame up and it will sit 3 nicer...i suggest running 14s in the rear for the standing 3 wheel...but depending on how much or how little coil u run in the rear the car may stand 3..but not an impressive one...
> *


well do u think i could at least pull up en easyer 3 wheel instead of turing sharp on each corners??


----------



## HOMER PIMPS0N

-


----------



## SEAZ01

TTT


----------



## SEAZ01

> _Originally posted by SEAZ01_@Mar 21 2010, 12:34 PM~16953151
> *TTT
> *


 :biggrin:


----------



## down79

how much do you think the lower trailling arms should be extended from the original length so I can do a nice 3 wheel?? all my presure points are reinforced,c-channel and power balls


----------



## riotousone

I just got my first 85 regal on switches. it was a hopper. I hit the switch down and the telescoping drive shaft fell out. I lowered the car and the drive shaft is about an inch away from the male part of the tranny. I was wondering if any one knows how these telescoping driveshafts work. I think i need some parts. it is fine when it is locked up but vibrates like crazy. I think i need a new drive shaft or a new male part of the tranny. Any one know what i should do. 85 regal in san diego. just got it a week ago. 4 switches 2 pumps and 9 batteries. it was a hopper. Im trying to daily it.


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by SEAZ01_@Mar 20 2010, 10:52 AM~16945001
> *well do u think i could at least pull up en easyer 3 wheel instead of turing sharp on each corners??
> *



if u want to keep the 12s ur gonna need chains


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by riotousone_@Mar 29 2010, 10:20 PM~17039500
> *I just got my first 85 regal on switches. it was a hopper. I hit the switch down and the telescoping drive shaft fell out. I lowered the car and the drive shaft is about an inch away from the male part of the tranny. I was wondering if any one knows how these telescoping driveshafts work. I think i need some parts. it is fine when it is locked up but vibrates like crazy. I think i need a new drive shaft or a new male part of the tranny. Any one know what i should do. 85 regal in san diego. just got it a week ago. 4 switches 2 pumps and 9 batteries. it was a hopper. Im trying to daily it.
> *



ur 1st mistake u made was trying to buy a hopper and turn it into a daily driver.....you should have just bought a car and had it lifted or buy one thats lifted but was used as a daily driver....but as far as ur driveline goes when u lower the car the driveline should have extended back to what it needs to be so that it doesnt fall out..but i dont know whats been done to the car since i didnt build it and u dont know how the builder built it...we need pics...and yes that vibration thing is a bad thing


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by down79_@Mar 27 2010, 08:15 PM~17019468
> *how much do you think the lower trailling arms should be extended from the original length so I can do a nice 3 wheel?? all my presure points are reinforced,c-channel and power balls
> *


none..the lowers are have nothing to do with standing 3 wheel or hitting a 3 wheel


----------



## riotousone

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Mar 30 2010, 09:03 PM~17050367
> *ur 1st mistake u made was trying to buy a hopper and turn it into a daily driver.....you should have just bought a car and had it lifted or buy one thats lifted but was used as a daily driver....but as far as ur driveline goes when u lower the car the driveline should have extended back to what it needs to be so that it doesnt fall out..but i dont know whats been done to the car since i didnt build it and u dont know how the builder built it...we need pics...and yes that vibration thing is a bad thing
> *


I know imma a noob. I saw switches and a regal and i jumped on it quick. now im havin probs. I dont know how to post pixs. imma have some guys in san diego look at it saturday. now i understand hydros more than i did before. Maybe i can trade for something clean and stock on this forum. I think i need a new tranny housing, seal, and maybe a new slip yolk or drive shaft. will see later. for now i will vibrate and try not to lower the back. but it is so hard not to hit them switches.


----------



## riotousone

where are all the hydro shops in san diego? There used to be a grip. Now im really lookin I cant find nada. Any thing in escondido ca san diego? north county?


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by riotousone_@Mar 30 2010, 10:26 PM~17050662
> *I know imma a noob. I saw switches and a regal and i jumped on it quick. now im havin probs. I dont know how to post pixs. imma have some guys in san diego look at it saturday. now i understand hydros more than i did before. Maybe i can trade for something clean and stock on this forum. I think i need a new tranny housing, seal, and maybe a new slip yolk or drive shaft. will see later. for now i will vibrate and try not to lower the back. but it is so hard not to hit them switches.
> *



u need to lower the back to stop the vibration..thats not good on ur tranny, or axle


----------



## riotousone

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Mar 31 2010, 10:02 AM~17054531
> *u need to lower the back to stop the vibration..thats not good on ur tranny, or axle
> *


when i lower it it comes out when i make a turn and i have to get it back in. even parked on a drive way i lowered a lil and the car started to roll.


----------



## down79

> _Originally posted by KINGFISH_CUSTOMS_@Mar 30 2010, 10:04 PM~17050385
> *none..the lowers are have nothing to do with standing 3 wheel or hitting a 3 wheel
> *


I have 12" cylinders and my lower trailing arms are 1" extended upper trailing arms are 1 1/2 longer than original. I can only lock it up so high cause my drive shaft will push into the rear end. I built a rack for 10 batterys It has only 5 right now , all on one side. you think I just need more weight????????


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by down79_@Mar 31 2010, 08:30 PM~17060023
> *I have 12" cylinders and my lower trailing arms are 1" extended upper trailing arms are 1 1/2 longer than original.   I can only lock it up so high cause my drive shaft will push into the rear end. I built a rack for 10 batterys It has only 5 right now , all on one side. you think I just need more weight????????
> *


weight isn't the issue. Issue is ur using 12s. Need to run 14s or taller and have individual control over the rear cylinders. When ur trying to stand 3 u don't lift the rear as one unit. U lift only one corner.


----------



## Hydros

> _Originally posted by riotousone_@Mar 30 2010, 09:30 PM~17050717
> *where are all the hydro shops in san diego? There used to be a grip. Now im really lookin I cant find nada.  Any thing in escondido ca san diego? north county?
> *




There is a shop in Escondido that installs airbags and hydraulics. It's Mr Muffler right in front of City Hall on Broadway. The main guy there knows his stuff, Plus they have some parts for sale. Their main business is Muffler and alignments, I met (owners son) Sonny, he has a lifted 55 with some nice mods to the rear end, and the owner drives an oldies PU with airbags. Just go and talk to them and see if they have any projects in the shop right now.

I'm not sure why they don't advertise that they do suspension mods, it's all word of mouth. I forget the guys name that does most of the suspension mods, he's Mexican, I think he used to work for some of the Top dogs in the Lowriding hydraulic business.

Email me, maybe we can go there together and see whats new.


----------



## Juiced84buickregal

Please HELP!..... ok i got my juice all goin in my car! im tryin to hop the front end! but when i drop it an hit the switch to go back up theres a delay like the pump will run but its almost like the dumps are still open for a second before it goes up i gotta let of the switch so there for i cant even get the momentum to hope! anyone know wat the hell is goin on? and also if i wanna hop wheres a good place to have the slowdown like all the way open or wat?


----------



## knightowl480

ANYONE EVER DONE A PLUMING ON A FOUR DUMP ONE PUMP SET UP ITS FOR A EURO CAR ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED


----------



## JM6386

> _Originally posted by Juiced84buickregal_@May 5 2010, 08:51 PM~17404799
> *Please HELP!..... ok i got my juice all goin in my car! im tryin to hop the front end! but when i drop it an hit the switch to go back up theres a delay like the pump will run but its almost like the dumps are still open for a second before it goes up i gotta let of the switch so there for i cant even get the momentum to hope! anyone know wat the hell is goin on? and also if i wanna hop wheres a good place to have the slowdown like all the way open or wat?
> *


If you have really old pumps they could have internal pressure relief valves built into the side of the block.(the blocks will have a big nut/cap on right side) What happens is after the first bounce the pump is tryin to build pressure for the second hit and between the pressure from the pump and the return pressure from the car comin down it pops the relief valve and goes back into the tank. OR if you are running anything but an Adex dump to the front, they could be reacting slow or loosing pressure internally and need a rebuild kit. Hope this helps! :thumbsup:


----------



## lowblackee

i got a questions homies!!!!! 

i got a 98 lincoln tc.. i did my front about 2 days ago, it locks up fine but wen dummping it it goes down half way then the passenger side stays up and the driver side dumps all the way down... it seems like the deep cup is getting stock between the frame pocket and the coil.... help pls


----------



## renzo778

I just picked up a deuce wit a Red's double top 2 pump setup. I know tha Red's pumps were tha shit bac in tha day. Never heard of tha double top pumps tho. How do they compare 2 BMH? Thx homies..... :h5: :biggrin:


----------



## scrappinsan

I have a pro hopper 2 pump 24 volt 2 battery setup I just got the truck if I try and lift the truck on the front with the dump control normal it wont lift I can unscrew it almost all the way and it will lift but if the dump control valve is set normal it leaks fluid out of it any ideas any help greatly appreciated


----------



## scrappinsan

nvm I did some trouble shooting and fixed it it was the o ring inside the dump control valve stem i fixed it for 1.99 and a lot of headache lol thanks anyway guys I am sure I will have more questions in future


----------



## Q-DEVILLE

WHAT R THE PROS AND CONS TO USING FACTORY A ARMS ON A 99 TOWN CAR?


----------



## xxxxerb hancocc

im gettin a three pump set up i have an 83 cutlass rite now i have 6batts they may b addin more.how high would the standin three be in the air? and will it b able to hop and how high? 14z in the bac and 8z in the front


----------



## souphillylow

I Am A Total Noob To Draulics And Living In The Wrong City (philadelphia p.a)
I wanted to know...For A 88 towncar how many batts and pumps i need to 3 wheel? and do i need to reinforce my frame? Thanks Much!


----------



## nuestroestilo806

I try to raise the car?? But my noids click?? I changed the 1st one... now the 3rd clicks??


----------



## look_what_i_can_do

> _Originally posted by nuestroestilo806+Jun 21 2010, 10:48 PM~17851864-->
> 
> 
> 
> I try to raise the car?? But my noids click?? I changed the 1st one... now the 3rd clicks??
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> you dont have power goin to something
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-souphillylow_@Jun 18 2010, 10:07 PM~17829313
> *I Am A Total Noob To Draulics And Living In The Wrong City (philadelphia p.a)
> I wanted to know...For A 88 towncar how many batts and pumps i need to 3 wheel? and do i need to reinforce my frame? Thanks Much!
> *


 reinforce it! especially if you plan to 3 wheel it..


----------



## scoobysmak

I admit this looks like the best source of Hydro info anywhere I have found. 

I got my setup installed back in 2003 but still new to the game you might say.

I got a 2pump, 4dump, and running 1 bank of 4 batteries for 48V (all CCE, except for the obvious)

The first 4 months after it got put in was the worst, had a bad dump, blew a fitting right out of the hose (first 4 hours) and had a cylinder get a crack in the side (how that happened I will never know, but replaced for free)

My truck sat for 3 years in a trailer (long story but took a new job, dad passed, and a few other things you might call setbacks in life). 

During this time I did take out all my batteries and put them inside, put a battery tender on them. I did one battery at a time for a week each and then hooked them all up in series and left it that way. 

This spring I finally get situated and got back in the drivers seat. I took it to a couple of shows and besides needing to change the oil and the seals it was looking like I got away lucky for letting it sit so long (wrong answer, but will say I left it layed out on the ground so my cylinders didn't rust up). Just as I start to feel good about it again, I am taking it out of the trailer to get some motor work done and backed into this great cloud of smoke that made my eyes water. About a second later it hit me that I had a hydro problem and I went for my kill switch. I finished backing out the trailer and got out with my fire ext in hand but only one or two of my wires were on fire (yes I had true flames). 

I just blew them out by blowing on them cause I had just cleaned the bed and didn't want the residue from the fire ext all over the place, plus my kill switch worked and the power was dead. I now know its critical to have a cut off switch of some sort inside where you can reach it from the drivers seat.

This is where some of my questions start, it took me a while of spark testing to find the noid that went bad, I did not have a meter with me so it was the only way to find the bad one. I am only running 2 noids per pump and for 48v everyone seems to recommend 3. Is there a reason people put them in series instead of parallel. To me I would think they would handle more current in parallel but I am not a rocket scientist either. 

I will say it caught me totally off guard how mine got wasted. I have always heard that your pump will stay running after you let off the switches. In my case the stupid thing just grounded out and the pump didn't turn. I am still only running 2 niods per pump, I did replace both of the noids on the pump that had the problem though. I used F-150 starter noids, I heard they were just as good and cheaper than the others but is that true or is there something better. 

I liked the fact that my kill switch worked but now seeing the results of what can happen ask what everyone else uses. I have a 36v drag racing battery kill switch something like this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74102/100...roductId=745318

Now this switch worked but thinking about replacing it with a new one or if anyone has something that works better. I admit a "breaker bar" is probably the best but I want a switch that I can have right on hand and not reach between my legs and take my eyes off the road (it would be my luck this happens when I am cruising along at 75 mph in heavy traffic). 

The other factor is I used 4 gauge all the way around, this run from the bed to the cab is about 20 ft and the insulation is about gone in some places (yes I got lucky cause then I would have had to reach for my battery clamp above open flames). I will probably use 2 or even 1 gauge to replace this at least from the battery to the switch, the run leaving the switch to my battery clamp I can keep the same (if I kill the power before it gets to the smaller wire no biggie). Is there any other recommendations: like does anyone make a remote kill switch that can handle the amps so I don't have to run 2 gauge inside the cab (at this moment just thinking about replacing it with my link).

My next questions are basic stuff but things I never learned or was told. When hittin switches what is the best way to keep things from getting stuck or blowing up. This is what I do so let me know if I am doing something wrong. I hit my switch usually for about 1/2 second a hit until I get to the top, then I shouldn't but just to make sure I give it a little tap I am up all the way. I see some people hold the switch until they lockout (I thought this was bad for two reasons like sticking a noid and blowing a seal).

I was also looking around for how to replace seals and didn't see any tech info on it but probably just haven't found it yet (only been to the site for 2 days). I saw someone had already asked about which oil is the best to use and why. I currently have 10W30 non-detergent oil and will probably keep using it but if there is something better I would like to know about it.

Just to give a bit more for my truck its an old Nissan hardbody ext cab so my weight Vs a regal or cutlass is nothing. Maybe this is another reason that I can get away with only 2 noids for so long. In that respect I am thinking about running 36V instead so my stuff will last longer but admit love the speed I got and not sure if I can give it up. 

I give mad props to all the peeps helping out on here.


----------



## BIGMAZ

Gotta question what does it mean in a hopper when your running it "hot"?


----------



## buzzy wuzzy

Was reading another topic build n this guy says he is using only 4 batt n a 82 lac coupe n maybe 1 pump my ? is what will his car b able to do


----------



## t_and_a_2003

OK, so I am still kinda new to the whole hydraulics thing, and I have a few questions. I had my old lowrider, but I didn't have it long enough to even charge the batteries. So I was looking at multi battery chargers. The one I keep finding has quck disconnect ends on it. The only problem I'm running into is that it says that it's a 72 volt charger. Here's where my problem is, I have a 12 battery set-up. Where do I find a charger that will charge all of them at once, if there even is one. And if there isn't, how do I charge all of my batteries. And second, there was a book written about the principles of lowrider hydros. Does anyone know the name of this book so I can pick it up from somewhere. Thanks everyone.


----------



## BIGG-USO

i have a ? about my wheels any help would be real greatful when i lock my car up my front wheel go inwards my a arms are extended but not reinforced thank you for any help


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by BIGG-USO_@Jul 31 2010, 09:05 PM~18195708
> *i have a ? about my wheels any help would be real greatful when i lock my car up my front wheel go inwards my a arms are extended but not reinforced thank you for any help
> *


need to extend them a weee bit more


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by t_and_a_2003_@Jul 25 2010, 11:05 AM~18135437
> *OK, so I am still kinda new to the whole hydraulics thing, and I have a few questions. I had my old lowrider, but I didn't have it long enough to even charge the batteries. So I was looking at multi battery chargers. The one I keep finding has quck disconnect ends on it. The only problem I'm running into is that it says that it's a 72 volt charger. Here's where my problem is, I have a 12 battery set-up. Where do I find a charger that will charge all of them at once, if there even is one. And if there isn't, how do I charge all of my batteries. And second, there was a book written about the principles of lowrider hydros. Does anyone know the name of this book so I can pick it up from somewhere. Thanks everyone.
> *


never seen a charger that will do 12 batteries at once. just set your 72 volt charger to do six at a time.


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by buzzy wuzzy_@Jul 10 2010, 07:46 PM~18012656
> *Was reading another topic build n this guy says he is  using only 4 batt n a 82 lac coupe n maybe 1 pump  my ? is what will his car b able to do
> *



depends on the amount of dumps the guy has on his one pump will determan what it can and can't do.


----------



## t_and_a_2003

> _Originally posted by gasman_@Jul 31 2010, 10:53 PM~18196605
> *depends on the amount of dumps the guy has on his one pump will determan what it can and can't do.
> *



If the guy only has one pump, basically whatever switch he hits in his box, which to my knowledge could only be 5 switches,(pancake, FL(dump only), FR(dump only), LR(dump only), RR(dump only), the whole car will raise, then he can choose what corner to dump,(if he has 4 dumps), if he only has 2 dumpts then he will have the front, back, and front corners, but the same thing, the whole car will raise when the switch is hit to lift.


----------



## t_and_a_2003

> _Originally posted by t_and_a_2003_@Aug 6 2010, 11:00 AM~18244845
> *If the guy only has one pump, basically whatever switch he hits in his box, which to my knowledge could only be 5 switches,(pancake, FL(dump only), FR(dump only), LR(dump only), RR(dump only), the whole car will raise, then he can choose what corner to dump,(if he has 4 dumps), if he only has 2 dumpts then he will have the front, back, and front corners, but the same thing, the whole car will raise when the switch is hit to lift.
> *



Sorry I got ahead of my typing, if he only has 2 dumps, he will only have front and rear, not sides.(or depending on how he sets up his dumps, left and right side).. And also the whole car will raise at the same time.


----------



## trokezonly

can someone tell me what is the legth of a basic wammy pump try-n to hide it under my truck bed


----------



## Classic Customs

> _Originally posted by t_and_a_2003+Jul 25 2010, 09:05 AM~18135437-->
> 
> 
> 
> OK, so I am still kinda new to the whole hydraulics thing, and I have a few questions. I had my old lowrider, but I didn't have it long enough to even charge the batteries. So I was looking at multi battery chargers. The one I keep finding has quck disconnect ends on it. The only problem I'm running into is that it says that it's a 72 volt charger. Here's where my problem is, I have a 12 battery set-up. Where do I find a charger that will charge all of them at once, if there even is one. And if there isn't, how do I charge all of my batteries. And second, there was a book written about the principles of lowrider hydros. Does anyone know the name of this book so I can pick it up from somewhere. Thanks everyone.
> [/b]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i have a couple chargers that will do more than 12 batteries. i cant even remember what they are. but give me a day or so and pm because I'm never in this topic and i will have the info. i think we pay like 550. i keep the 72 volt chargers in stock for half of most hydro company prices. and i can show you how to make a simple jumper to charge all your batteries at once. i just need to know how you have them split at the moment.
> 
> <!--QuoteBegin-BIGG-USO_@Jul 31 2010, 07:05 PM~18195708
> *i have a ? about my wheels any help would be real greatful when i lock my car up my front wheel go inwards my a arms are extended but not reinforced thank you for any help
> *



if your a arms are extended more than an inch with no shims and you still have neg camber then your mounts have flexed or the belly is starting to cave.


----------



## ascencionalberto87

I got a 96 Lincoln town car and want to know how do I install a hydro set up in the front I've done a regal but this lincols front suspension is different and also how many turns do my front 3ton springs need to have to have a low but not to on the floor ride


----------



## 619lowrider

> _Originally posted by trokezonly_@Aug 11 2010, 04:02 PM~18287202
> *can someone tell me what is the legth of a basic wammy pump  try-n to hide it under my truck bed
> *


i dontno the exact size of whammy set up , but i think u truck have the necesary space


----------



## AK5000

What about running coil over in the front of a coupe de ville, I like the Idea of it but wonder if that's a to much wear an tear for a hopper? do people do it on full size car?


----------



## Ru-Nutty

I was told that my solenoids got stuck and caused my motor to keep running? Luckily I had time to grab the disconnect...but when I hook my ground back up it sparks...but my switches are still hot? The ground isn't hooked up but it's still hot! Some people told me to replace my noids but what is the safest way to replace them when the set-up still has power running through them?? Please help!


----------



## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS

> _Originally posted by Ru-Nutty_@Sep 4 2010, 12:34 PM~18486206
> *I was told that my solenoids got stuck and caused my motor to keep running? Luckily I had time to grab the disconnect...but when I hook my ground back up it sparks...but my switches are still hot? The ground isn't hooked up but it's still hot! Some people told me to replace my noids but what is the safest way to replace them when the set-up still has power running through them?? Please help!
> *



ur problem isnt the solenoids..if the ground is disconnected and the switches are hot u need to disconnect ur 24v switch wire cuz its pinched somewhere and ur gonna catch ur shit on fire


----------



## DR.Luxurious

Heya KingFish and/or Hydro Moderator

I was looking to get some juice in my car. 1979 Lincoln Mark V. Weights about 4900lbs with me in it. I was looking at Prohoppper Pro X F/B/S/S 2P/4D system w/ 6 batteries. NOT looking to bouce or to 3 wheel. Here is where the noob questions start.

It asks me Pumpheads gears. The standard is #8. Is that good enough or should I go more. #10 or #13. I figure #8 should be fine. No idea what this is.

Next is cylinder size. What would you recomend for the front/back size? Standard is 6/6. A friend told me I should do 6/8. What do you think? 

As for front cups I was wonderng if I shoulld do regular cups or deep cups. Whats the difference beside the phyiscal aspect. As for the back I plan on doing powerballs with reverse cups for the coilover style.

Now Springs. What weight should I order? with a hyro setup the car will be over 5000lbs and not looking to have a bouncy ride. Can I order 2 springs and cut them to fit all 4?

I think thats all my questions for now.
Thanks for any info!


----------



## HEAVY-CHEVY

maybe a repost i dnt know but my blazer goes dwn quick but goes up real slow y is that


----------



## ricardo408

nice topic... learned alot today . seems to me that the expert here is Kingfish :thumbsup:


----------



## modelmangler

i need help figuring out what to do for rear shocks in my 62 impala, i have the stock pan hard set-up (for now) and plan to do a wish bone, or Y bone in the future.

the issue i am having is i have the hydraulics all done and want to put shocks back in the rear, the stock ones are garbage because they are just old and need replacing......and were actually some sort of "old school" type bullshit.

i did some measuring from the underside of the car up on ramps to see what length i can get away with, it seems as though the compressed length is roughly 13"(mounting location to mounting location) and the fully locked length is 27", now i don't plan to drive fully locked up with the pan hard set up, because i hate how the drivers side of the rear end shoots out as far as it does, but what will happen if i run a shock that is 15" long compressed? will the car actually sit on the shock when it's fully dumped? i like how it lays out, i don't wanna loose that look even if the car is sitting up even an inch more.....i want it to sit where it is.

i checked with monroe shocks........they tell me nothing
checked with rancho shocks.........nothing
a few 4x4 places here in the city......nothing.

if there is a shock that anyone is running that seems to work really well, as far as allowing the car to lay out i would appreciate any help, as far as the lock up, i just hope i don't over extend the shock and ruin the mounting area for the shock itself, this actually happened in the last car i had, it wasn't an impala but sorta the same issue.

thanks guys


----------



## DANNY64

HEY KING FISH THANKS FOR HELPING OUT , I DIDN'T ASK ANY QUESTIONS BUT SOME OF THE OTHER HOMIES HERE HAD SOME SIMILAR QUESTIONS TO MINE AND U ANSWER ALL OF THEM ON THE SPOT , GOOD LOOKING OUT HOMIE . I LIVE IN THE CHICAGO BURBS AND PRETTY MUCH LOWRIDER IS KINDA DEAD HERE SO ME AND MY HOMBOY HAVE TO LOOK AT THIS BAD ASS WEB SITE FOR ANSWERS AND ADVICE . ONCE AGAIN THANKS TO PEOPLE LIKE U AND THE REST ON THIS SITE FOR STAYING TRU TO LOWRIDER .


----------



## tanguy34

*trying to fig out how to make bracket for my fronts of 86 madza b2000 truck it has torrsion bars i have 8in clyinders and mini springs and power balls too need help how to install this thanks*


----------



## The Supreme Plate

> _Originally posted by Ru-Nutty_@Sep 4 2010, 11:34 AM~18486206
> *I was told that my solenoids got stuck and caused my motor to keep running? Luckily I had time to grab the disconnect...but when I hook my ground back up it sparks...but my switches are still hot? The ground isn't hooked up but it's still hot! Some people told me to replace my noids but what is the safest way to replace them when the set-up still has power running through them?? Please help!
> *



u ever get that problem fixed?


----------



## OJ Hydraulics

how much in materisal would it b to wrap a frame ( 84 caprice) at home?


----------



## scotty_low

I have a 83 Monte running a whammy 2 pump set up with 10" cylinders in the rear and 8" at the front. The rear of the frame has also been reinforced.

My question is what do I need to do a standing 3 wheel? I'm guessing 14" rears, adjustable uppers and some more frame strengthening..........Does it need a full wrap or just the weak points strengthening, also does it require a bridge and chains?


----------



## Extreme_KsA

hi


Can anyone explain to me the use of these item


http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-19480749859284_2123_376932

AND

http://ryderzhydros.com/adjustable-trailing-arms-kit.html

AND

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-19480749859284_2123_1584124

AND That's all


----------



## El Bear y MC

wanting 2 put a hydraulic pump on a lowrider bike. What should I start wit


----------



## oldskool325

hey how do i jack up my car when i lift it the wheel stays on the ground and one more question when i dump the back on side gos lower then the other ? im a noob to this


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by oldskool325_@Nov 1 2010, 10:33 PM~18962976
> *hey how do i jack up my car when i lift it the wheel stays on the ground and one more question when i dump the back on side gos lower then the other ? im a noob to this
> *



to jack up the back put the jack either right under the pumpkin or somewhere in the back part of the frame. jack it up good enough to put a jack stand under it. after that use you jack and jack up the rear axle at the lower arms.

if its the front i say jack up your car from under the lower control arm


----------



## elgringodelparis

3ton springs for hopping for my coupe deville with v8 it's ok???


----------



## blindsidetattoos




----------



## chevyrider91

ok my buddy just welded in a bridge but he still cant stand 3 on his 85 monte whats the deal it wont even try to tilt is it because he has 12" cylinders on the rear and needs 14s or what were new to this. he has 3 pumps with 2 going to the back. but it still wont tilt over.


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by chevyrider91_@Nov 20 2010, 02:13 PM~19118059
> *ok my buddy just welded in a bridge but he still cant stand 3 on his 85 monte whats the deal it wont even try to tilt is it because he has 12" cylinders on the rear and needs 14s or what were new to this. he has 3 pumps with 2 going to the back. but it still wont tilt over.
> *



ask OUTHOPU but maybe you need to shorten the chain a lil bit


----------



## fons

> _Originally posted by gasman_@Nov 21 2010, 05:33 PM~19126836
> *ask OUTHOPU but maybe you need to shorten the chain a lil bit
> *


need bringit 2 me ill make 3 wheel .


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by fons_@Nov 25 2010, 07:43 PM~19164738
> *need bringit 2 me ill make 3 wheel .
> *


i don't think he lives here


----------



## SEAZ01

ok i just hooked up my set up 6 batts 3 on each corner disconnect is grounded under my seat i try lifting the front pump thts only connected now and all my noid does is click is there anything worng?? i need the help


----------



## colo64imp

wats the best size springs to hopfoa a 85 cutty 2 pumps 8 batts


----------



## youngnlow

whats a good set up for a lay n play gbody?


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by youngnlow_@Jan 31 2011, 11:25 AM~19744790
> *whats a good set up for a lay n play gbody?
> *


2 pumps 4 dumps 6 switches 6/8 in the front 10/12 in the rear. thats basicly it i suppose.


----------



## youngnlow

is it arder to juice a truck rather then say... a g body or a lac?


----------



## playboi13

> _Originally posted by johnnyhop_@Jun 5 2008, 07:17 AM~10803780
> *forget this i'm not getting this car and the hydraulics im just going to get an air setup for my scion its much cheaper.  :biggrin:
> *


weak


----------



## AK5000

do you have to run the same rated springs all the way around, or can I run a heavy spring in the front and a softer one in the back?


----------



## playboi13

ok homies.. coppin a juiced ride in less than two weeks.. this will be my first low with hydraulics.. i wanted to know what regular maintenance i need to know about.. like my last ride was on air.. so i had to empty tank and water trap and stuff.. so whats up with hydros.. what do i need to know bout htem..thanks homies


----------



## Johnny562

> _Originally posted by scotty_low_@Oct 21 2010, 05:50 AM~18868954
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Nice Monte!


----------



## misterslick

DOES ANYONE HAVE PICS OF A 2 PUMP FOUR DUMP SETUP? I HAVE FOUR BATTERIES AND 2 BANKS...I NEED SOME IDEASON HOW TO HOOK UP THE BATTERIES.THANKS


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by misterslick_@Feb 12 2011, 05:02 PM~19853180
> *DOES ANYONE HAVE PICS OF A 2 PUMP FOUR DUMP SETUP? I HAVE FOUR BATTERIES AND 2 BANKS...I NEED SOME IDEASON HOW TO HOOK UP THE BATTERIES.THANKS
> *


lol just look thru the forum that posts pics


----------



## misterslick

> _Originally posted by gasman_@Feb 13 2011, 02:29 PM~19858985
> *lol just look thru the forum that posts pics
> *


 i had trouble finding some but thanks ill try again


----------



## gasman

just go to search and type in pics of set ups or something of that variation


----------



## Wicked Cutty

I have a question can u install hydraulics on fwd cars? Like a 1999 cadillac deville? I heard from a lot of people that u can't..


----------



## Pex$i87

hello everybody, i was thinking of popping my lowrider cheery by purchesing a 94-96 Cadillac Fleetwood (still in process). but i got a couple of questions . . . . . 

-where are the stress points on a 94-96 cady?

-can 3 wheel mo be done with a 2 pump set up? and how do i go about on the noids, plumming and wiring?

-im not that crazy about hopping just want a set up that will lift it and drop it and the occasional 3 wheel mo.

-your thoughts on CCE (basic) hydro kits but wit the 12' rear cylinders ?


----------



## slickbg13

I got a 97 honda accord with 6's up front and 8's in rear. I was using coil over springs because i had heated my stock coils and the lift and lay of the car is perfect but when the front is locked up there is a knocking noise. Am i supposed to use the factory coils and if I do will the car still lay?


----------



## sikk_lac

> _Originally posted by Jmich_@Jun 13 2007, 07:38 PM~8100438
> *question about hydraulics? The back raises up but the front just clicks? help
> *





make sure your batteries are charged up, if they are start checkin your sileniods homie...that should do it...


----------



## mike1034

Is a single pump set up enough for a 93 roadmaster?


----------



## gasman

what are you talkin about to hop or a single pump like 1 pump in the truck and 4 batteries?


----------



## mike1034

> _Originally posted by gasman_@Mar 9 2011, 03:43 PM~20052505
> *what are you talkin about to hop or a single pump like 1 pump in the truck and 4 batteries?
> *


No its just a show car just need to lock up and show.


----------



## gasman

for a show car just to do it i mean i suppose you could. it would be very slow and you would need 4 or 5 dumps on the one pump. someone did it before. but i wouldn't recomend 1 pump. but hey its your car ask around a lil more to the people who made 1 pump work


----------



## mike1034

Thx 4 da input :biggrin: just gonna get da 2 pump setup


----------



## 86buckregal

in the front suspension does the donut go welded to the frame

and is this a good bridge for a g body http://www.coolcars.org/gallery/techarticles/hires/lrm12.jpg

send pics if anybody has this set up


----------



## UCETAH

SALT LAKE UTAH


----------



## Joe's Eighty Four

I see on some of the other forums that when some people are renforcing there frames they "pinch the belly" or notch the front cross member? What's the point for that?

Thanx


----------



## npazzin

> _Originally posted by Joe's Eighty Four_@Mar 24 2011, 01:56 PM~20170031
> *I see on some of the other forums that when some people are renforcing there frames they "pinch the belly" or notch the front cross member? What's the point for that?
> 
> Thanx
> *



from what i understand, it brings the spring perch closer to the ground giving it higher lock up in the front, and also gives it more clearance while its locked up in the back so you don't smash the front bumper on the ground when hopping

:dunno:


----------



## Joe's Eighty Four

Thanks npazzin for the info! It all makes sense now


----------



## alexus

I think the max on those is 25psi. I believe its to stop the vacuum effect when the oil gets sucked out of the tank. In LRM years ago, they suggested not plugging the tank.

 air jordan retro 
 Nike air max bas prix


----------



## Asphalt Assassin

what about accumalators how do u tell if they are bad ?


----------



## REV. chuck

> _Originally posted by Asphalt Assassin_@Apr 6 2011, 12:53 AM~20271367
> *what about accumalators how do u tell if they are bad ?
> *


the ride turns to total shit especially if your not running springs


----------



## Asphalt Assassin

> _Originally posted by REV. chuck_@Apr 6 2011, 12:56 AM~20271375
> *the ride turns to total shit  especially if your not running springs
> *


i know that.. but is there a way to actually check the accumulator to see if it is bad or has a blown bladder or not ? i was told that u could feel it with a small amount of air and if u hear a hissing sound of air leaking it was bad is this correct or not ? also are they throw aways or can the bladder be replaced ?


----------



## REV. chuck

> _Originally posted by Asphalt Assassin_@Apr 6 2011, 03:25 AM~20271697
> *i know that.. but is there a way to actually check the accumulator to see if it is bad or has a blown bladder or not ? i was told that u could feel it with a small amount of air and if u hear a hissing sound of air leaking it was bad is this correct or not ? also are they throw aways or can the bladder be replaced ?
> *



if they wont stay charged then they are leaking they are junk.


----------



## BigPayaso69

Any1 have links to some pics of a 93-96 fleetwood fram reinforcment, n what r the stress points? What need to b reinforced?Please any help???? :nicoderm: :nicoderm: :nicoderm:


----------



## jimmy78mc

Got a question were are the strees points on a 78 mc frame and how thick of metal should i use any link to this or somebidy that knows tanks in advance


----------



## Rubencito

why is it that i replaced the seals on the cylinders but one keeps busttin?? could it be a bad cylinder? or wa? i need some help cuz its starting to piss me off


----------



## SPL1T~PERSONAL1TY

> _Originally posted by Rubencito_@Apr 14 2011, 02:12 PM~20339182
> *why is it that i replaced the seals on the cylinders but one keeps busttin?? could it be a bad cylinder? or wa? i need some help cuz its starting to piss me off
> *


shitty seals maybe


----------



## Leper_Messiah

ok, im still kinda new to lowriders, even though i have caught on alot.
but i have a car with 3 pump CCE setup. it has a 10 switch box, the batteries are at full charge "only runnin 3 bats, but should be enough just to raise and lower it". but i just now tried to raise it up, none of the switches work except the left rear..... is this solenoids?


----------



## Leper_Messiah

> _Originally posted by Leper_Messiah_@Apr 28 2011, 03:11 PM~20440304
> *ok, im still kinda new to lowriders, even though i have caught on alot.
> but i have a car with 3 pump CCE setup. it has a 10 switch box, the batteries are at full charge "only runnin 3 bats, but should be enough just to raise and lower it". but i just now tried to raise it up, none of the switches work except the left rear..... is this solenoids?
> *


nevrmind..... got it. :biggrin:


----------



## gasman

> _Originally posted by jimmy78mc_@Apr 9 2011, 05:17 PM~20298558
> *Got a question were are the strees points on a 78 mc frame and how thick of metal should i use any link to this or somebidy that knows tanks in advance
> *


stress points=rear arches, might wanna do the chest plate too


----------



## DevilleSlab

i know you dont have to reinforce the frame but you should but you u have to reinforce the frame on a truck? they already have big strong frames and i was jus wondering if you have to? i would be running a 2 pump 4 batt setup on a 91 s10


----------



## alejandro56

is it safe to use 6 pumps


----------



## kreeperz

THIS *****............... :nicoderm:


----------



## figueroa8o3

I have 2 prohopper pumps and six batterys 3 on each side, an on each side it had a 24v solenoid block. last week one of the blocks "the one thats hook up to the front pump"cought on fire so i was told that i should of had 3 solenoids on each side an thats why it cought fire, so i was wondering if this is true or was it cause i left the quick disconect on for a week and just went to hit the switch and it burst in to fire.an also could i hook up a 48v selonoid block or do they sale 36v blocks. ANY ADVISE WOULD HELP thanks


----------



## gasman

well from what i read on here many times you should not use thoes solenoid blocks because they are prone to catch on fire because the plastic gets hot


----------



## wannabelowrider

I have solenoid blocks and running 72v and have had no problems. I got them from BMH. It may depend on how you use ur switches too. Mine is just lay n play


----------



## Rags_87Caddy

I have an 87 Caddy Took it out to a show today, hit the switch to lift the back up a bit and the pump stayed on and lifted the back up the full length. as I was putting it in my garage did the same thing went to raise, the back and it picked it up the full way again but picked up the left rear a bit more than the right rear. what could the issue be? I've had the car out for about 3 weeks now and this is the first time thats happened. This is my first Lowrider Ive had, Also when hitting switchs, When do you know its time to charge the batteries? I got 2 out of 3 batteries reading 11.85V on the volt testerthe other at 12.10V. At that voltage is that considered low batteries? I havent charged them since I bought them 4 weeks ago. I got four switchs front, Back, Left rear, right rear, 3 pumps, 12 batteries by have it wired in ast 48V to front/36V to back, any Advise or help would be great thanks


----------



## CMonte3

figueroa8o3 said:


> I have 2 prohopper pumps and six batterys 3 on each side, an on each side it had a 24v solenoid block. last week one of the blocks "the one thats hook up to the front pump"cought on fire so i was told that i should of had 3 solenoids on each side an thats why it cought fire, so i was wondering if this is true or was it cause i left the quick disconect on for a week and just went to hit the switch and it burst in to fire.an also could i hook up a 48v selonoid block or do they sale 36v blocks. ANY ADVISE WOULD HELP thanks


 
Like this one?









Homie invest in some accumax or accurates solenoids that was a lesson well learned. Leaving your quick disconnect hooked up doesn't have anything to do with the solenoid catching fire it's how many volts you have going through it.


----------



## mixter

Hey guys, i have been reading through the forums on here and have found a ton of great info. I am however a newbie to the hydro world. So when my buddy asked me to juice his 2000 Acura RL i figured i would research the hell out of it first. And i think i have the majority of it down. There are a few things that i am still iffy on and i figured this would be the perfect place to try and get some info. I got the hydroholics single pump set up, (2) 8" cylinders, (2) 10" cylinders, i will be running 2 Kinetik 1400s, i got (2) 3 dump manifolds and accumulators.

I only want to do front and back up/down, i am not interested in side to side or pancake. this is a daily driver and it's just for fun basically. 

Here are my questions,

With the cylinders front and rear, the donuts get mounted in place in the upper strut towers and the cylinders pass through them. the cylinders come with a threaded sleeve. do i weld the sleeve to the donut? if not how does the cylinder stay in place?

can i run the set up with a single 3 dump manifold and 4 accumulators? would it be better to run both manifolds?

How much of the system do i hard line?

i have more i am sure but that will get me started and the ball rolling for me
thanks in advance for the help it is much appreciated

MIKE


----------



## erikroy81

Q. What type of oil should I use in my pumps?
A. Hydraulic Oil 68 or 10W30 non-detergent motor oil. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is not recommended but can be used to speed things up, however, be prepared for more leaks and bad seals in the future. 
can u mix the tranny fluid with the oil.......


LayItLow said:


> The old FAQ (which most people probably don't find in the tech section) definitely needs to be added to so feel free to reply to this topic and with your suggestions, additions, links to other helpful topics, etc.
> 
> We'll let this topic run for awhile and then when there is enough good information I'll get it compiled in a clean format and pinned back to the top of this forum.
> 
> --------
> 
> Q. The motor spins but the car doesn't go up.
> A. The oil level in the tank may be too low. You might have a broken key. There may be a bad check valve or dump valve. The motor could be spinning the wrong direction. The pump head could be blown, broken or have a leaky or cracked seal. The pump head seal to block could be leaking or the pump head is not tight enough on the block. If you have a pressure relief valve it could be set for too low of a pressure.
> 
> Q. The car goes up but will not come back down.
> A. Make sure the slow down valves are not closed all the way. The dumps may be pressure locked - relieve the pressure by temporarily loosening the hose fitting and then, next time, don't lay on the switch so long or buy some high quality dumps to prevent future pressure locks.
> 
> Q. One side of the car goes up slower than the other.
> A. Check your fluid levels and bleed the hoses. It's also possible a bent cylinder or something else is causing more resistance. If your pumps are hooked to separate banks of batteries, check that all batteries are fully charged.
> 
> Q. How do you bleed the hoses?
> A. First raise the car so there is pressure in all your hoses. You bleed one hose at a time and can start with any cylinder, it doesn't matter. Get a rag and cup it around the cylinder so oil wont get every where. With a wrench, SLOWLY start to unloosen the hose where it connects to the cylinder fitting. When fluid starts to come out, let it bleed until you see no more air bubbles in it or the milky color is gone. Then tighten it back up. Repeat at each cylinder.
> 
> Q. A solenoid sticks open and the motor keeps running or burns out.
> A. Low batteries! Improperly grounded solenoids. Too many or not enough solenoids (a good rule of thumb is 3 high quality 12v solenoids per pump). Motor armature could be shorting internally, brush plate insulators could be burned up and melted, the commutor could be wrapped around shorting the motor and drawing excessive amps causing the solenoids to burn out prematurely.
> 
> Q. I hear a grinding noise while the car is lifting.
> A. Low oil level. With the car fully dumped, fill the tank so the oil level is 1" below the filler hole.
> 
> Q. What type of oil should I use in my pumps?
> A. Hydraulic Oil 68 or 10W30 non-detergent motor oil. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is not recommended but can be used to speed things up, however, be prepared for more leaks and bad seals in the future.
> 
> Q. What's a frame wrap and how is it done?
> A. The short and sweet answer is steel (usually 3/16" or 1/4" thick) simply welded along some or all sides of the vehicles frame. Either the entire frame is wrapped or just some of the problem areas, such as the cross member and the rear humps over the axle. It is done with an experienced welder that knows what he is doing!
> 
> Q. How do you three wheel and why can't I get it to?
> A. Fully raise all four cylinders and then dump a rear corner. If the car is capable of a three wheel then the front corner opposite of the dumped rear corner will come off the ground. The more weight in the dumped corner, the better. This is one reason you'll usually see the batteries stored in the rear corners of the trunk. If you can't do a standing three, you may be able to do a rolling three: While driving (in a safe, legal and off-road area, of course) and with the car fully raised drop a rear corner and at the same time do a sharp turn to the opposite direction of the corner you dropped. For example, start turning to the left and drop the right rear corner - the front left wheel should come off the ground. If you've tried all this and you still can't three wheel, you'll probably need taller rear cylinders, more weight, more pumps (at least one to each rear cylinder is recommended for 3 wheeling), or even a different car - the balance and design of yours may not be able to three wheel.


----------



## SIXFOE

Hi!
Would like som info/input.

Im looking to cut and juice a 1963 Chevy Impala, Im doing a simple oldschool 2-pump setup, 2 dumps, 4 batteries and 2 switches. 
One for the front and one for the back.

The car is all stock.

Im just looking to lay the car down and cruise it, no hopping, 3-wheeling or non of that shit...
I know re-enforcing the frame is never a bad thing, but how necessary is it really when using the car like I intend to?


----------



## chilisrunner

*need help*

my shit clicks when i hit the switch sometimes is that just having low battery power the batteries sat for a few months


----------



## Wizzard

chilisrunner said:


> my shit clicks when i hit the switch sometimes is that just having low battery power the batteries sat for a few months


Check all cables so everything is tighten correctly. 
Then fully charge your batteries, if it still clicks when you hit the switch it could either be one (or more) bad solenoid or bad batteries.
Do you know how old the batteries and solenoids are?


----------



## AnthonyVFCC

KINGFISH_CUSTOMS said:


> ur problem isnt the solenoids..if the ground is disconnected and the switches are hot u need to disconnect ur 24v switch wire cuz its pinched somewhere and ur gonna catch ur shit on fire


 Same shit happened to me so it the 24v then so I need to change noids and wire but 24 on - should it b ON+I got 10batt 3pump 3 to back 7 to front Because I used to have a six batt set up and the 24v was on + I barley got it out of shop 1 month ago plse help


----------



## AnthonyVFCC

Also one of the noids stayed fried almost caught my car
on fire


----------



## westsidehydros

Rags_87Caddy said:


> I have an 87 Caddy Took it out to a show today, hit the switch to lift the back up a bit and the pump stayed on and lifted the back up the full length. as I was putting it in my garage did the same thing went to raise, the back and it picked it up the full way again but picked up the left rear a bit more than the right rear. what could the issue be? I've had the car out for about 3 weeks now and this is the first time thats happened. This is my first Lowrider Ive had, Also when hitting switchs, When do you know its time to charge the batteries? I got 2 out of 3 batteries reading 11.85V on the volt testerthe other at 12.10V. At that voltage is that considered low batteries? I havent charged them since I bought them 4 weeks ago. I got four switchs front, Back, Left rear, right rear, 3 pumps, 12 batteries by have it wired in ast 48V to front/36V to back, any Advise or help would be great thanks


your batteries are in desperate need of charge. 12.0 is a dead battery, 12.7 is full charge. What happens is that the solinoid has enough power to trigger, but not enough voltage to release...it sticks and you have whats called a "runaway pump" keeping batts charged is very important no mater what solinoids you use.


----------



## Mr Solorio

Jmich said:


> question about hydraulics? The back raises up but the front just clicks? help


I'm going thru this right now all 8 batteries got charged for 8hrs on 2 amps, checked all noids and there good, need help what do u guys think. Thanx for the help


----------



## Mr Solorio

Mr Solorio said:


> I'm going thru this right now all 8 batteries got charged for 8hrs on 2 amps, checked all noids and there good, need help what do u guys think. Thanx for the help


All I'm getting are clicks for the front but the back raises with no issue


----------



## MUFASA

Mr Solorio said:


> All I'm getting are clicks for the front but the back raises with no issue


bad motor or solenoids, also check the ground on each solenoid............and load test the batts.....


----------



## Mike&Tyson

how much would it cost for a 2 pump 4 battery set up roughly?


----------



## Mr Solorio

Why is it that when I hit the front switch to go up, my passenger side lags, it's un-even on my 63, im not into hopping but the front passenger side lags, I have locked it up and bleed the cylinder but it still does the same, does anybody have more tricks for this, thanx 


----------



## Rags_87Caddy

westsidehydros said:


> your batteries are in desperate need of charge. 12.0 is a dead battery, 12.7 is full charge. What happens is that the solinoid has enough power to trigger, but not enough voltage to release...it sticks and you have whats called a "runaway pump" keeping batts charged is very important no mater what solinoids you use.



Thanks for your help I was thinking that 10.0 or 11.0 was a low battery charge good to know that i was way off, I charged them up the other day, everything works great now, what voltage Should I stop hittin switchs at and start recharging at to avoid problems? thanks again


----------



## LIVIN LOW IDAHO

my bad if this is a dumbass question. but what kind of 10w-30 motor oil is non detergent?????

also i replaced a bad inner seal in my pump does it matter if the hole on the pump head if upside down or up????


----------



## colo64imp

how do u re wire a 4 switch panel from frnt, bak ,side ,side to frnt bak crner crner 3 pumps 8 batts


----------



## jimmy78mc

I have a ? When i hit my switch to make the ass end go up only the driver side goes up any ideas on what is causing this


----------



## Rubencito

Q: i have a 2 bank rack 3 on each side with four batteries hooked up to the front and 2 batts hooked up to the back pumps 
(3 pump setup) and im wondering how do i make it to have 3 batts to the back pumps or if i should go with 4 to the back 2 pumps cuz to much stress goes to those only 2 batts that power the back pumps.


----------



## Rubencito

so yu only got 2 solenoids to that pump? if so homie running six batts threw 2 solenoids is gonna catch fire but also never leave your quick disconect on more than a few hours it'll fukk up the solenoids as i was told cuz i've asked about that


----------



## uso cc avondaleaz

I have a 85 cutlass and my batts got loose and grounded to frame and the car wont start now any suggestions on what could be wrong


----------



## DanielDucati

uso cc avondale said:


> I have a 85 cutlass and my batts got loose and grounded to frame and the car wont start now any suggestions on what could be wrong


Check your fuse box first uso!


----------



## uso cc avondaleaz

i checkd the fuses, starter, melted wires, neutral safety switch and still nothing im going to try the ignition switch next


----------



## KrAzE1

i have a question:

HOW DO U CONNECT 3 BATTSZ TO 1 PUMP?
(THE PUMP IS ALL CONNECTED JUS NEET TO KNOW
HOW TO CONNECT THEM TO GET MY CAR WORKING)


----------



## KrAzE1

THAT 1 PUMP IS FRONT N BAK NO OTHER PUMP IN THECAR


----------



## BUTTAFINGUZ

Aight the questions probably been asked, but other than shaking it, how do I know when a seleniods are bad? I starting to think I'm tossing good ones in the the garbage. What makes them go bad?


----------



## MiConsuelo

How do you troubleshoot the solenoids?


----------



## travieso213

hey everone im new to hydros and was wondering what the avg cost for a 3 pump setup and fram wrap would cost i live in phx az thanks


----------



## 79lincoln

need help...have a 77 monte carlo just want to lay /play what type of springs should i use front/back want to keep a smooth ride without any serious bounce..thx


----------



## my 84

*hydro fluid*

i have two cce pumps, what type of hydro fluid do i use in them and how much do i put in them? also , can i use hydro oil instead of fluid?

thanks, My 84



LayItLow said:


> The old FAQ (which most people probably don't find in the tech section) definitely needs to be added to so feel free to reply to this topic and with your suggestions, additions, links to other helpful topics, etc.
> 
> We'll let this topic run for awhile and then when there is enough good information I'll get it compiled in a clean format and pinned back to the top of this forum.
> 
> --------
> 
> Q. The motor spins but the car doesn't go up.
> A. The oil level in the tank may be too low. You might have a broken key. There may be a bad check valve or dump valve. The motor could be spinning the wrong direction. The pump head could be blown, broken or have a leaky or cracked seal. The pump head seal to block could be leaking or the pump head is not tight enough on the block. If you have a pressure relief valve it could be set for too low of a pressure.
> 
> Q. The car goes up but will not come back down.
> A. Make sure the slow down valves are not closed all the way. The dumps may be pressure locked - relieve the pressure by temporarily loosening the hose fitting and then, next time, don't lay on the switch so long or buy some high quality dumps to prevent future pressure locks.
> 
> Q. One side of the car goes up slower than the other.
> A. Check your fluid levels and bleed the hoses. It's also possible a bent cylinder or something else is causing more resistance. If your pumps are hooked to separate banks of batteries, check that all batteries are fully charged.
> 
> Q. How do you bleed the hoses?
> A. First raise the car so there is pressure in all your hoses. You bleed one hose at a time and can start with any cylinder, it doesn't matter. Get a rag and cup it around the cylinder so oil wont get every where. With a wrench, SLOWLY start to unloosen the hose where it connects to the cylinder fitting. When fluid starts to come out, let it bleed until you see no more air bubbles in it or the milky color is gone. Then tighten it back up. Repeat at each cylinder.
> 
> Q. A solenoid sticks open and the motor keeps running or burns out.
> A. Low batteries! Improperly grounded solenoids. Too many or not enough solenoids (a good rule of thumb is 3 high quality 12v solenoids per pump). Motor armature could be shorting internally, brush plate insulators could be burned up and melted, the commutor could be wrapped around shorting the motor and drawing excessive amps causing the solenoids to burn out prematurely.
> 
> Q. I hear a grinding noise while the car is lifting.
> A. Low oil level. With the car fully dumped, fill the tank so the oil level is 1" below the filler hole.
> 
> Q. What type of oil should I use in my pumps?
> A. Hydraulic Oil 68 or 10W30 non-detergent motor oil. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is not recommended but can be used to speed things up, however, be prepared for more leaks and bad seals in the future.
> 
> Q. What's a frame wrap and how is it done?
> A. The short and sweet answer is steel (usually 3/16" or 1/4" thick) simply welded along some or all sides of the vehicles frame. Either the entire frame is wrapped or just some of the problem areas, such as the cross member and the rear humps over the axle. It is done with an experienced welder that knows what he is doing!
> 
> Q. How do you three wheel and why can't I get it to?
> A. Fully raise all four cylinders and then dump a rear corner. If the car is capable of a three wheel then the front corner opposite of the dumped rear corner will come off the ground. The more weight in the dumped corner, the better. This is one reason you'll usually see the batteries stored in the rear corners of the trunk. If you can't do a standing three, you may be able to do a rolling three: While driving (in a safe, legal and off-road area, of course) and with the car fully raised drop a rear corner and at the same time do a sharp turn to the opposite direction of the corner you dropped. For example, start turning to the left and drop the right rear corner - the front left wheel should come off the ground. If you've tried all this and you still can't three wheel, you'll probably need taller rear cylinders, more weight, more pumps (at least one to each rear cylinder is recommended for 3 wheeling), or even a different car - the balance and design of yours may not be able to three wheel.


----------



## BrandonS

Got a really newb question. So you put the cylinder in threw a hole and then the car sits on the donut. Do hydraulics clank and bang since nothing is actually fastening them in at the top and they are able to slide around were the car sits on the donut? What keeps the cylinder from falling out of the hole when you 3 wheel? Would it be advantageous to thread the top of the cylinder and run a plate down on top of the car as well to clampit in?


----------



## 72189

wat kind of oil should i use for my hydros?????


----------



## hydroandy

SittinOnChrome said:


> wat kind of oil should i use for my hydros?????


ISO 32 cSt anti-wear hydraulic fluid.


----------



## bigwormh

HOW DO U KNOW IF U HAVE A ORIGINAL MARZOCHI GEAR OR REMANUFACTURED ONE?


----------



## Junior LOC

bigwormh said:


> HOW DO U KNOW IF U HAVE A ORIGINAL MARZOCHI GEAR OR REMANUFACTURED ONE?


X2

Good question Homie, I would like to know the same thing


----------



## mr.glasshouse

X75


----------



## 1regio3

I having a problem with my swiches when i hit the swich too the front pump it gose up like it should but when i try hitting it again too hoop it it hardly goes up any help


----------



## Joe's Eighty Four

I have one question! Are all hydraulic blocks the same? Or do they have different paths for the oil???


----------



## KLASSICK CC

:scrutinize:


----------



## 96LOCS

so i want to know is how to STOP my back springs from squeking so damm much when im ridding low.


----------



## gasman

96LOCS said:


> so i want to know is how to STOP my back springs from squeking so damm much when im ridding low.


put a top piece on the spring... or put pvc pipe around the cylinder that should help


----------



## Ray-65-impala

this thread has helped me a lot thanks!


----------



## silvamilo16

i got a mini truck 1992 chevy s10 that i want to setup with hydros i got four boulevard pumps an all cylinders what else do i need to get me going besides batts ?


----------



## silvamilo16

i have a mini truck that i want to juice i have four boulevard pumps and all 4 cylinders wat else do i need to get going besides batts ?


----------



## TxGalaxie64

I got a question about marzocchi heads. Im looking to build a set up like this 








Im looking for a pump head that has the inlet and outlet on the sides or in the front like an aircraft pump. these heads are marzocchi i just dont know what kind.


----------



## TxGalaxie64

another badass set up with the same type of pump head.


----------



## rug442

TxGalaxie64 said:


> I got a question about marzocchi heads. Im looking to build a set up like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im looking for a pump head that has the inlet and outlet on the sides or in the front like an aircraft pump. these heads are marzocchi i just dont know what kind.


ASK ROBERT AT SOUTHSIDE







THE SET-UP WAS IN HIS CAR HOODRICH


----------



## NoAkUp

wassup everybody i have a ? for whoever can help me.. im going thru armatures like its underwear.. i have a single pump street hopper going to 10 batteries..i get maybe at the most 13 hits per armature.. anyone with suggestions


----------



## PHUKET

NoAkUp said:


> wassup everybody i have a ? for whoever can help me.. im going thru armatures like its underwear.. i have a single pump street hopper going to 10 batteries..i get maybe at the most 13 hits per armature.. anyone with suggestions


yep i told u so............lol


----------



## Hannibal Lector

Same for me thats why its a double. But I know some stuffs u can do to make it.last longer.


----------



## Hannibal Lector

Also dont buy those.bunk motors from jus2c. Theres a bad batch.


----------



## lowc

i have a problem my car locks up but the front slowly goes down again i replaced the check valves but still have the same opened up my dumps cleanded the and nothing still goes down could it be my dumps?


----------



## kaos283

TxGalaxie64 said:


> I got a question about marzocchi heads. Im looking to build a set up like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im looking for a pump head that has the inlet and outlet on the sides or in the front like an aircraft pump. these heads are marzocchi i just dont know what kind.


Those are not available anymore apparemtly. So they got switch to rockford. 
You can talk to Ron at Bmh, or shorty's, or empire custom(blue kit)


----------



## juan85buick

THE ONE said:


> It could the motor or the solenoids. .02 :biggrin:


 i hve the same prob the motors n solenoids r new..could it hve to do with the batterys being low...


----------



## TRU BLU 77

*FRYING MY SWITCHES*

just wired my two pump set up to all my six batteries ,it responds beautifully but i keep frying the switches when dropping(dumping)you can hear the switches sizzling could this be a dump problem switch problem or possible solenoid problem,im running 3 solenoids per pump or two much fluid in pump tank?


----------



## LaCdOuT

had my batteries for 6 years now..lately its been fully charged 2 hours quickly than usual and it usually last me 2 weeks now its dead at 2 days (and im light on the switches)..is it a sign for new batteries needed?


----------



## redluna82

Can u help me out, i got a 82 regal, 2 pump, 6 batts, have 2 dumps for the rear pump, extended upper control arms and stock lower arms. also have 16'in cylinder and i can three wheel turning but i want to three wheel standing still, also have 3 batts on each corner?


----------



## big kev

if iam runnin a piston pump with a #11 pumphead & 8 batteryz 4 1/2 coilz on a 84 caprice with V6 & adel 2 dump y block two hoses whut size hoses & cylinder ports size will get on da bumper faster & are the 4 1/2 ton coilz cool ?


----------



## sacra916

could somebody tell me why i lift the back up all the way and the driver side slowly drops down . i thought it was cylinder but wouldnt it leak and leave cylinder all oily? or leave a oil spot uder cylinder? because i see no oil anywear and the other side stays up what could be problem? check valve? it has 2 dumps on rear pump by the way please help out thanks


----------



## big kev

sacra916 said:


> could somebody tell me why i lift the back up all the way and the driver side slowly drops down . i thought it was cylinder but wouldnt it leak and leave cylinder all oily? or leave a oil spot uder cylinder? because i see no oil anywear and the other side stays up what could be problem? check valve? it has 2 dumps on rear pump by the way please help out thanks


soundz like your one of your dumps may be bad if you only have one check valve both sides will drop .lock it up close the slow down if it stayz up change your dump if it still drops look 4 a leak


----------



## sacra916

big kev said:


> soundz like your one of your dumps may be bad if you only have one check valve both sides will drop .lock it up close the slow down if it stayz up change your dump if it still drops look 4 a leak



ok so i changed out the check valve lifted up car and it stays up. but now the side that was droping down will not dump just the other side now what happend?


----------



## cougar_chevy

here's a noob question..
So the thing is the rear end of my car lifts really slowly... I Run 2 pumps on the rear with 4batts.. 
Front is super fast with 1 pump and 4batts. 
All the pumps were renovated this winter and i just finished putting it all back in the car.
I ventilated all the cylinders and all the noids and dumps seems ok..
what could be the problem? This is how it used to look.. But the same setup.









Thanks in advance!


----------



## big kev

lookz like your back noidz are hook up wrong also check the batts hook up 3 noidz to each pump


----------



## 81cut

dam yea its wrong look at the passenger side the noids are hooked up to the first bat and same on the drivers side can't tell were the ground is coming from either though


----------



## 81cut

unless that's three ground going under three trunk then the power for the switches is wrong ha


----------



## cougar_chevy

Okey thanks for the answers.. The thing is i just were in the garage and looked at stuff.. When i lifted the rear about 4 times it just didnt want to lift anymore, It just like DZZzzzz...... And now its fucking wont do anything anymore.. checked all the batts and one of them seems fucked... Could one battery fuck up a hole system?

Ok UPDATE!! Just checked after recharging the faulty battery after 30min.. And now the fucking thing lifted pretty quick.. WTF!!???


----------



## big kev

sacra916 said:


> ok so i changed out the check valve lifted up car and it stays up. but now the side that was droping down will not dump just the other side now what happend?


make sure the check valve iz not backwardz if it iz turn it around if it still dropz change your dump


----------



## vflores915

Hey everyone, like many out here I am new to the lowrider scene. I bought a '65 Impala with hydros already installed. Unfortunately, my emotions got the best of me. The batteries went bad, some of the solenoids went out as well, tryed to lift it up by bypassing it and hooking up jumper cables, it only went up so far.... I left on a deployment and now I am stuck on the other side of the world. I will be getting back in June and I am looking to get the car going.
Can anyone refer to me any shops in North San Diego County? 
I am looking to get the hydrolics fixed, paint, interior... not looking to get into a carshow status, just want it to be able to ride it on the weekends with pride. 
Any input from you all will be appreciated.


----------



## raider64

Need some help whit my ride can u help


----------



## big kev

raider64 said:


> Need some help whit my ride can u help


well try whutz up wit it


----------



## BlackMagicHydraulics

vflores915 said:


> Hey everyone, like many out here I am new to the lowrider scene. I bought a '65 Impala with hydros already installed. Unfortunately, my emotions got the best of me. The batteries went bad, some of the solenoids went out as well, tryed to lift it up by bypassing it and hooking up jumper cables, it only went up so far.... I left on a deployment and now I am stuck on the other side of the world. I will be getting back in June and I am looking to get the car going.
> Can anyone refer to me any shops in North San Diego County?
> I am looking to get the hydrolics fixed, paint, interior... not looking to get into a carshow status, just want it to be able to ride it on the weekends with pride.
> Any input from you all will be appreciated.


Look in the San Diego regional forum, and ask them folks to point you in the rite direction....I do know theres a few in S.D (*big Kidz and,bottoms up*),but not thinking of any way out north county and in the hills....


----------



## TxGalaxie64

I know this isn’t hydraulic related but I’m stumped. So I’m planning on running a coil over set up with 14" cylinders and a four link, what I don’t understand is how you can lock up one side and drop the other and not twist the link joints out of there mounts? I understand how a 4 link can be good for up and down movement (mini trucks, off road forums, the only four link resources I can find) but I’m having trouble putting it into a low low perspective. I want to be able to 3 wheel fbss ect ect.. How do the 60s impalas do it with their solid stock lower trailing arms?


----------



## RalfyG

I got 2 pump set up 6 batterrys 6 bat to the nose 3 to the rear ...
so my ride recently started doin this I got 6 switches when I hit switches up itll go slow sometimes but than again other times I lift fast like normal I didnt see anything burn?wat can this be homies please hook up a vato with that 411 when I hit switches motor runs from the pump but the car acts as if its fully locked when its not even half way thanks my gs


----------



## sixonebubble

Bought a car with hydros already installed. The right rear goes down slow but there are no leaks from the cylinder. I'm pretty sure the check valve is bad. I had Hydros about 16 years ago (old reds setup) but the dumps were a little simpler. Just need some help identifying what type of check valve I have and should ask for? 3/8" inline or 1/2" Stucchi (can someone post a pic of what a stucchi this looks like)?
​


----------



## AztecWarrior

I got a 2 pump 4 dump setup with 2 batteries. I only wanna lift the front and back, no side-to-side. I wanna use two momentary toggle switches but don't know what amperage to get them in. What should they be?


----------



## cruisethewhip

Can anybody tell me where exactly are the stress points on a 93 towncar?


----------



## 19kilow

I just bought a 78 monte Carlo... I have two pumps and 6 batteries... How do I figure out how many dumps I have...the car has 10 switches

Also how can I get the car to hop?


----------



## EIGHT BALL

AztecWarrior said:


> I got a 2 pump 4 dump setup with 2 batteries. I only wanna lift the front and back, no side-to-side. I wanna use two momentary toggle switches but don't know what amperage to get them in. What should they be?


24 volts to the switches. And I'd recommend 3 batteries if possible


----------



## EIGHT BALL

TRU BLU 77 said:


> just wired my two pump set up to all my six batteries ,it responds beautifully but i keep frying the switches when dropping(dumping)you can hear the switches sizzling could this be a dump problem switch problem or possible solenoid problem,im running 3 solenoids per pump or two much fluid in pump tank?


From my past seeing random guys sound this, it's because you might have the positive wire for the switch box too hot! No more then 24vts to box no matter what.


----------



## 66LOW

:drama:


----------



## npazzin

looks like a parker.........:dunno:


sixonebubble said:


> Bought a car with hydros already installed. The right rear goes down slow but there are no leaks from the cylinder. I'm pretty sure the check valve is bad. I had Hydros about 16 years ago (old reds setup) but the dumps were a little simpler. Just need some help identifying what type of check valve I have and should ask for? 3/8" inline or 1/2" Stucchi (can someone post a pic of what a stucchi this looks like)?
> ​


----------



## lines

i dont know what the hell is going on hope some one can help just bought 63 with pumps in it had to put battiers and siloniods in it the front gos up and the back just clickes and the siloniods are new the front works so i hooked the back pump to the front and it clickes and iv tryed other pumps and they do the same but the front works and i put all my other pumps to it and they just click and befor i put my extra pumps away they work idk wtf is going on front works back clickes like bad sinoniod but then put back pump on front siloniods and it does the same click god dam click so tired of clicking lol


----------



## lines

could be a dump that could be stuck open or not closing all the way


----------



## lucky1101

Hello All...noob to forums period so please forgive me. I have a 65 bel air 4 door with two pumps four dumps six batteries. I am having a few issues and I have done a ton of research, this site has helped me set up my whole system but I am not finding an answer to these problems. If I have all fours dumped (pancaked) and lift all four only rear lifts. If I lift either of the front or rear corners seperately both sides lift at the same time but will dump seperately, if I dump either side (Left or Right) from locked up both front and rear dump but when I lift only rear lifts. I know this is something very simple but I am at a lost at this point. Oh and its all a cce set up. Thanks for any help provided.

after a nice break I figured my problem out.


----------



## special_k

I have a 97 lincon town car looking to put lifts in. What coils should I run, 3 tons up front? It's gonna be my weekend warrior. It's gonna have a 2 pump whammy set up with 4-6 batts. 
Any suggestions on battery's how many I should run just for 4 switches 2 pumps and what coils I should use for front and rears.
I would aprecheate the help. Thanks!


----------



## cadillac tone

what's better ?
a piston pump..
or two pumps ..
to the ft...


----------



## Tray Deee

My 87' Olds Cutlass Supreme


----------



## Shadow19

Why not regular 10w30 motor oil instead of non detergent?? Whats the difference??


----------



## pepperoniroller

Shadow19 said:


> Why not regular 10w30 motor oil instead of non detergent?? Whats the difference??


Probably because it'll eat the seals in the cylinders and pump? You should just use AW-32 Hydraulic Oil instead of motor oil.
http://www.amazon.com/COASTAL-45009...2757063&sr=8-4&keywords=aw+32+hydraulic+fluid


----------



## Shadow19

Is that what the professionals use?


----------



## 423flako

lines said:


> i dont know what the hell is going on hope some one can help just bought 63 with pumps in it had to put battiers and siloniods in it the front gos up and the back just clickes and the siloniods are new the front works so i hooked the back pump to the front and it clickes and iv tryed other pumps and they do the same but the front works and i put all my other pumps to it and they just click and befor i put my extra pumps away they work idk wtf is going on front works back clickes like bad sinoniod but then put back pump on front siloniods and it does the same click god dam click so tired of clicking lol


I got the same pro worn a reds pump 2 dumps


----------



## Pure Perfection Rida

Hey homies I have a lil problem everytime I try to hook up my ground my rear pumps start to lift up does that mean it's grounding out somewhere??


----------



## antgjr

Pure Perfection Rida said:


> Hey homies I have a lil problem everytime I try to hook up my ground my rear pumps start to lift up does that mean it's grounding out somewhere??


It sounds like your solenoid is stuck or your swith is stuck unhook the power for the switch and if it keeps it up its your solenoid


----------



## Pure Perfection Rida

antgjr said:


> It sounds like your solenoid is stuck or your swith is stuck unhook the power for the switch and if it keeps it up its your solenoid


ya that was the same thing i thought so i tried all of that than i checkd each noid individually n they were all just fine .. and this is wat exactly happen i decided to change my setup around n changed the location of my noids n this is wen it started happening so i just put the noids back were thy were n it works just fine now i find that kinda strange but oh well im back up and running lol thanks for yur help though bro apperciate it mucho


----------



## antgjr

Pure Perfection Rida said:


> ya that was the same thing i thought so i tried all of that than i checkd each noid individually n they were all just fine .. and this is wat exactly happen i decided to change my setup around n changed the location of my noids n this is wen it started happening so i just put the noids back were thy were n it works just fine now i find that kinda strange but oh well im back up and running lol thanks for yur help though bro apperciate it mucho


If you ever figure out what happened let me know that would be a helpful pieceof info


----------



## pel0n82

Sup everyone - I got n 82 2 door fleetwood brougham 3 pump setup n jus got done with a 2nd engine n.trans swap I got a 305 sb 700r4 trans with a driveshaft out of a caprice that had same combo - problem is I need a longger yolk wwhen I drop rear end driveshaft falls out of trans onto crossmember lol if anyone has had same prob plz help a brother out specifically id like to kno how much longer of a yolk do Ineed - 12 in the back 8 in front (cylinders) don't want a slipyolk thanks!


----------



## boxer239

I'm having trouble trying to lift my car up (it does go down), everything is swithed up rite but keep getting a ticking noise from the solednoids, could it be the ground not catching rite? Or could it be the one of the solenoids. Batteries are charged


----------



## Rubencito

boxer239 said:


> I'm having trouble trying to lift my car up (it does go down), everything is swithed up rite but keep getting a ticking noise from the solednoids, could it be the ground not catching rite? Or could it be the one of the solenoids. Batteries are charged


mos likely yur batts not charged enough check your volts on the batts homie


----------



## Rubencito

if i have a pump with a two dump setup, say i have it hooked up in the back, can i lift the corners??


----------



## Tray Deee

Yeah me to... like abas_abas said...Imma need a set up soon...My 87' Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme


----------



## LunaticMark

pel0n82 said:


> Sup everyone - I got n 82 2 door fleetwood brougham 3 pump setup n jus got done with a 2nd engine n.trans swap I got a 305 sb 700r4 trans with a driveshaft out of a caprice that had same combo - problem is I need a longger yolk wwhen I drop rear end driveshaft falls out of trans onto crossmember lol if anyone has had same prob plz help a brother out specifically id like to kno how much longer of a yolk do Ineed - 12 in the back 8 in front (cylinders) don't want a slipyolk thanks!


why would you not want a slip? A PROPERLY done slip is the best and safest way to go. Trust me, you do not want to be flying down the road and pole vault over your driveshaft because it fell out going down the freeway. The issue isnt the length of the rear cyliders, it is how far the back drops.


----------



## BangBus

i am going to juice my 90 cadillac sedan and want to know if anybody can pm me pictures of the front and back were to cut what hole saw sized they recoment ect thanks any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## cruisethewhip

Probably a dumb question and im sure its been asked before but ill ask cause i need to know..
What does the pressure seal do and where exactly does it go on the pump? 
I took apart my pump and poured all the oil into a can and found a little seal in there i was looking online on ccehydraulics and i seen the exact seal that looks like mine.. the front pump goes up really slow leaks alot of oil onto my trunk.. 
Somebody please help me out. . .


----------



## cruisethewhip

^^^ Also when i hit the switch the battery spark whats going on? Ive heard its the motor before but not sure..


----------



## brian84corvette

i need to replace the seals on my rear cylinders. they both leak - one is much worse than the other. my cylinders are old school reds from the late 90s i believe as the tops of the cylinders are hexagonal and they have the threaded hydraulic fitting sticking out of one of the flat sides instead of out the top like most modern cylinders do. cool cylinders. .. but i need to know where i can find some new seals to put on them. i can measure the shaft and the housing sizes with my calapers tomorow when i get to work... but if someone can link me to somewhere that sells cylinder seals online or give me the size i need if i can pick up from local ace hardware store - what material is a good seal made from ? i would imagine a standard rubber o ring from the hardware store would just blow out or not work at all.


----------



## brian84corvette

cruisethewhip said:


> Probably a dumb question and im sure its been asked before but ill ask cause i need to know..
> What does the pressure seal do and where exactly does it go on the pump?
> I took apart my pump and poured all the oil into a can and found a little seal in there i was looking online on ccehydraulics and i seen the exact seal that looks like mine.. the front pump goes up really slow leaks alot of oil onto my trunk..
> Somebody please help me out. . .


i killed the motor on my pump because of this. the oil is leaking thru your block in to the electric motor side of your pump. it needs to come apart and be cleaned , and re asembled with new seals - hopefully your pump motor is not burnt up from being covered in oil


----------



## cruisethewhip

brian84corvette said:


> i killed the motor on my pump because of this. the oil is leaking thru your block in to the electric motor side of your pump. it needs to come apart and be cleaned , and re asembled with new seals - hopefully your pump motor is not burnt up from being covered in oil


Thanks appreciate it how can i avoid doing this again? im buying new competition blocks soon from b.m.h


----------



## Rubencito

so i have a mini truck with a tilt bed and diomond tilt (two sage rack) i have four pumps ran all the wires correctly and worked fine for a day then the solinoinds start making clicking noises like a matraca or a playing card attached to the spokes of a bike. it got to the point that the solinoids would just click and not raise anymore. Anyone got an idea what is the problem here?? all my batts are fully charged.


----------



## isaac

Hi people,

Have a problem with the hydro's in my Datsun 260c. Asked the mechanic who was working on my car to charge the batteries up over night. Unfortunately he forgot to take the earthing clips out and has burnt out a couple solonoids. The two that had melted we've replaced however when pressing front end up all you get is a wooshing sound, same sound as if you have no oil. Wondered what els could have gone wrong, you can hear the pump working but nothing's happening and the dump solonoid is working and so are the others I believe...

Any help ?


----------



## 440sled

Rubencito said:


> so i have a mini truck with a tilt bed and diomond tilt (two sage rack) i have four pumps ran all the wires correctly and worked fine for a day then the solinoinds start making clicking noises like a matraca or a playing card attached to the spokes of a bike. it got to the point that the solinoids would just click and not raise anymore. Anyone got an idea what is the problem here?? all my batts are fully charged.


Are all of your grounds connected cleanly and tight?


----------



## isaac

*Require some expertise*

The batteries were left to charge over night without the earths being disconnected and has fried a few bits.

Not sure what it is at the moment. Learning more and more about hydro's, am fascinated but am another dead end.

It's a two pump set up with two banks of three batteries, front/back. The dump on the top of the the pump which does the front has melted and also a solonoid that sits on the end of what I thinks one of the electronic cut offs. Because the dump had gone the car was stuck up and wouldn't go down. Swapped the good dump from the not melted side to the front and the car went up but not down.

Had the melted parts replaced(2noids) and the car finally went down, but now won't go up. All you gets a wooshing sound, similar sound to when you've run out of oil, (not as drowney, more high speed wooshing as if it working harder) can feel the pump vibrating but still no lift. 

Could something have melted inside the pump, something stuck open, or is the gear linkage gone perhaps, any one clued up enough for some advise ? 

To make a note the back is working fine up down, fully independent ect, it's just the front, the side that was over charged having probs with 


Here's a pic anyway of the car stuck in the garage


----------



## dogbonekustoms

brian84corvette said:


> i need to replace the seals on my rear cylinders. they both leak - one is much worse than the other. my cylinders are old school reds from the late 90s i believe as the tops of the cylinders are hexagonal and they have the threaded hydraulic fitting sticking out of one of the flat sides instead of out the top like most modern cylinders do. cool cylinders. .. but i need to know where i can find some new seals to put on them. i can measure the shaft and the housing sizes with my calapers tomorow when i get to work... but if someone can link me to somewhere that sells cylinder seals online or give me the size i need if i can pick up from local ace hardware store - what material is a good seal made from ? i would imagine a standard rubber o ring from the hardware store would just blow out or not work at all.


try hittin Reds miami, as i hear is the only Reds shop still open, or take the rams or the seals to the nearest industrial hydraulics shop. Im positive they will have what you need.


----------



## Schidek

isaac said:


> The batteries were left to charge over night without the earths being disconnected and has fried a few bits.
> 
> Not sure what it is at the moment. Learning more and more about hydro's, am fascinated but am another dead end.
> 
> It's a two pump set up with two banks of three batteries, front/back. The dump on the top of the the pump which does the front has melted and also a solonoid that sits on the end of what I thinks one of the electronic cut offs. Because the dump had gone the car was stuck up and wouldn't go down. Swapped the good dump from the not melted side to the front and the car went up but not down.
> 
> Had the melted parts replaced(2noids) and the car finally went down, but now won't go up. All you gets a wooshing sound, similar sound to when you've run out of oil, (not as drowney, more high speed wooshing as if it working harder) can feel the pump vibrating but still no lift.
> 
> Could something have melted inside the pump, something stuck open, or is the gear linkage gone perhaps, any one clued up enough for some advise ?
> 
> To make a note the back is working fine up down, fully independent ect, it's just the front, the side that was over charged having probs with
> 
> 
> Here's a pic anyway of the car stuck in the garage


I have no answers for you, as I'm more of a noob than you lol. I just popped in to say sweet looking 4 door! I got a 4 door lowrider myself and going through the pains of my newly juiced ride (back only for now, waiting on parts) bent my drive shaft.. dooh. Can't wait to see what I'll break next when I juice the front. Good luck and again.. that's clean ride!


----------



## caprice on dz

I have a 95 caprice I'm installing a two pump setup in on a month or two. I'm keeping it a simple lift and lay 4 battery setup (my daily ride). Plan is to use the stock front springs in the rear, maybe add accumulators in a few months when I have the money. Still up in the air on coil under or coil over, no plans to 3 with this car. Is there any kind of reinforcing I need to do to the rear spring perch? I plan to do a strees point reinforment next year, just don't have the funds this year.


----------



## travieso213

I have a 2 pump 6 battery set up 3 on each side wit 6 batteries to the front n 3 to the back this is my first set up so still learning can someone explain how to charge them I got a schumacher charger that charges up to six but not sure how to hook it up if anyone could help me out I would appreciate it thanks


----------



## Pure Perfection Rida

Jmich said:


> question about hydraulics? The back raises up but the front just clicks? help


do
Ey homies I'm having this same exact problem they were working. Just fine all I did was disconnect the batts. To clean up my trunk I reconnected them n now front just clicks


----------



## boxer239

How do we know if a motor or pump head goes bad?


----------



## Lowdoza

Hey I'm new to lowriding, I have a 95 town car with 6 batteries and two air pumps, if I wanted to swap out the front pump with a piston pump could I do that and just leave the same hoses attached and just swap them or do I need to remove everything and swap it?


----------



## Johhny Munoz

Ive never had hydros so I was wondering when im gonna park and turn off my truck do I have to lower it all the way to release the fluid because I don't know if it will be a bad idea to leave it at ride height for prolonged periods of time and also if I go with accumulators and no springs when I pancake it will it lay the rear axle on the frame (It is a 2002 Silverado single cab short bed)


----------



## 440sled

It's best to lay it out with no pressure in the lines and also disconnect your batteries if it's going to sit for a long time. Even over night. I have accumulators too, just lay it out.


----------



## caprice on dz

440sled said:


> It's best to lay it out with no pressure in the lines and also disconnect your batteries if it's going to sit for a long time. Even over night. I have accumulators too, just lay it out.


 plus if your car lays frame it makes it harder to steal it if they don't know how to raise it up


----------



## 440sled

X's 2


----------



## Johhny Munoz

Very true im thinking of running some sort of hidden kill switch so you cant raise it unless you know were it is


----------



## antgjr

Just put a fuse on your power for the switch and take it out that's what I do


----------



## Schidek

Johhny Munoz said:


> Very true im thinking of running some sort of hidden kill switch so you cant raise it unless you know were it is


That's a good idea!


----------



## brice-muschamp-1970

Hi I am new to the forum. Sorry if i posted in wrong area. I have a 1970 Cadillac Sedan Deville. I have professionally installed hydraulics on the car after i had replaced all bushings and went through suspension. The car has 2 pumps and 4 thirty-one series batts, the car is wired for 48 volts. I want to try to make it 24 volts to make the car raise slower and still be able to hit all 10 switches. I tried it but the pancake button doesn't have enough power. Is that something i just have to live with?


----------



## denverabeyta

Where does the wire for the dump connect to? I have all my switches wired, and my 24v connected but i have 2 wires coming from each dump in to 1, and dont knw where it goes???? I hooked it up to the ground and this released it and lowered my rear, it raises just fine problem with bringing it down. Do i have it wired right? 6 batt, 2pumps, 10 switches..


----------



## brice-muschamp-1970

I talked to hyjacker , anyways they told me to leave the car to 48 volts. they told me that because the car is just to heavy. thanks for the help though.


----------



## Schidek

440sled said:


> It's best to lay it out with no pressure in the lines and also disconnect your batteries if it's going to sit for a long time. Even over night. I have accumulators too, just lay it out.



What kinda trouble can I run into by not doing what you suggest? Reason being I juiced the rear in jan 13, pulled the control arms and its been fully raised up with 12" strokes in the rear.. Bats connected, still holding full charge while I wait on my new a Arms?


----------



## KAKALAK

brice-muschamp-1970 said:


> I talked to hyjacker , anyways they told me to leave the car to 48 volts. they told me that because the car is just to heavy. thanks for the help though.


Or your pumpheads are to big. Try using a smaller one like the # 5 or 7


----------



## KAKALAK

Schidek said:


> What kinda trouble can I run into by not doing what you suggest? Reason being I juiced the rear in jan 13, pulled the control arms and its been fully raised up with 12" strokes in the rear.. Bats connected, still holding full charge while I wait on my new a Arms?


cause your batts could give off that white powdery residue if left grounded. I did that and the shit was everywhere :ugh:


----------



## Big Poppa

Can someone explain the purpose of extending the rear lower control arms (lower trailing arms) on early impalas? I have seen from 2" to 6" extension of arms.


----------



## Big Poppa

Is it the longer the extension of the rear control arms the more height in the hop?


----------



## caprice on dz

need some help fellas. a buddy who switched from juice to bags a few years back clean out his hydro stuff and sent it my way. can anyone tell me what this is/does? Its an older cce block but I have no idea what the stem sticking out is for


----------



## LunaticMark

it's an adjustable pressure relief valve... it helps prevent over locking, put it will decrease the pressure the pump can build.


----------



## Candido

So. I'm new to low low's I have two pumps I'm going to use 10" front cylinders and 12" back cylinders on a 87 cutlass going to have 6 batt but I need a list of everything I'm going to need for it to work


----------



## ridinlow197982

How are you all doing? I'm new to lowriding and I have a couple questions... 
I have a 1987 olds cutlass with # pumps & 8 batteries and i cant get it to tree wheel, I raise the whole car and drop one rear corner but nothing, but I can go to the front and pick it up! Do I need to put weight in the trunk or am I just doing something wromg


----------



## ridinlow197982

3 pumps


----------



## cougar_chevy

ridinlow197982 said:


> How are you all doing? I'm new to lowriding and I have a couple questions...
> I have a 1987 olds cutlass with # pumps & 8 batteries and i cant get it to tree wheel, I raise the whole car and drop one rear corner but nothing, but I can go to the front and pick it up! Do I need to put weight in the trunk or am I just doing something wromg


Try doing the same while driving in a corner.. Or only lift the front and then lift one rear pump seperetly. If that doesent help put in some weight in the rear sides and or chainbridge the axle..


----------



## LILLOKOTE

Could you burn solenoids by hitting 2 switches up at the same time with fully charged battery's ??


----------



## Fleetwood Slim

do it matter witch way you hook up adex? if you http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt..._ff&p=reverse+polarity+switch&rs=0&fr2=rs-topreverse polarity will it just be backward on the switch or will it fry? Is there a way of telling what pin is power/ground. what Ga wire should i use to wire up a plug?


----------



## KAKALAK

Candido said:


> So. I'm new to low low's I have two pumps I'm going to use 10" front cylinders and 12" back cylinders on a 87 cutlass going to have 6 batt but I need a list of everything I'm going to need for it to work


10" are too much for fronts. Go with 8's


----------



## BIG_NORTHWEST_D

Hey what's up, I hooked up the cables to the battery's back words and try to hit the switch. Nothing happend. Got them hooked up right and still nothing, what happend?


----------



## 67n76

When reinforcing stress points over the rear axle (have a glass house frame so its not straight) and spring pockets do you heat and bend the metal plate to shape the frame while welding it in place or cut plates and weld together to get the form of the frame?


----------



## donthatedakid

I have a 2pump setup 6 battiers nd i would like to add 2 more pump or maybe just 1.

How do i plum the dumps for the rear pumps(2 pumps for the rear)do i use a single dump on each pump(all 3)?
n


----------



## donthatedakid

*help! trying to upgrade!*

<img src="http://www.layitlow.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=658458&stc=1" attachmentid="658458" alt="" id="vbattach_658458" class="previewthumb"><br><br>I have a 2pump setup 6 battiers nd i would like to add 2 more pump or maybe just 1.<br><br>How do i plum the dumps for the rear pumps(2 pumps for the rear)do i use a single dump on each pump(all 3)?<br> n


----------



## MR.59

67n76 said:


> When reinforcing stress points over the rear axle (have a glass house frame so its not straight) and spring pockets do you heat and bend the metal plate to shape the frame while welding it in place or cut plates and weld together to get the form of the frame?


just cut and bend the steel to the shape of the frame, over the upper spring pockets, i have heavy steel over the top, so it`s never going to poke through


----------



## MR.59

Fleetwood Slim said:


> do it matter witch way you hook up adex? if you reverse polarity will it just be backward on the switch or will it fry? Is there a way of telling what pin is power/ground. what Ga wire should i use to wire up a plug?


do you have the top adex plug? because that fits on only 1 way, with the corect colors wires out the top


----------



## Sursito




----------



## Sursito

Dats my set up if i had 2 more dumps to rear how would i go bout plumbing dem i can right now dump one rear and turn all da way and ill 3 wheel like a champ but i wanna show stand 3 na mean thanks


----------



## Sursito

i need help what size cylinders are these , cant figure out if they are 12s or 14s due to how i measure i need 14s to stand 3 wheel cause 12s aint doin it i gt a 87 cutty 6 batts 2 dumps to rear pump and wired to dump sides do i need 2 more dumps added or longer cylinders help needed


----------



## Paulusdlowlow

My right rear ram is leaking oil from the upper part right where it goes into the spring, I think. Does anyone know how to fix this?


----------



## Still Hated

Any idea what causes this and does this keep it from working right....everything in the casing is good...already coated also....


----------



## Ray Brown

Question: So theres a car on here for sale with *Telescopic cylinders in rear 14-26 in and 10s in front* and looks like when its dropped all the way down the rear axle looks like it sits about an inch or two too far back towards the rear... Is this an easy fix?? Does it need a shortened driveshaft?? If they been driving it like this do you think its caused any problems. It does look normal when locked up high though.. Thanks.


----------



## Dtru

How do I stop fluid from coming ouf my filler cap . I think I filked it to full but not sure . Any suggestions .


----------



## dingo

Those grind marks are balancing knotches ...made. to balance the armature...there is nothing wrong with that


----------



## dingo

Do you have a chsin bridge in you ride?


----------



## dingo

Pressure limit valve


----------



## fcerda956

Got a 84 cutty fully raped 10 batt piston to the nose and won't do 40" any suggestions?


----------



## caprice on dz

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parker-Moti...181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417581502d

does anyone know how to tell if these are 3/8" or 1/2"


----------



## Paulusdlowlow

redluna82 said:


> Can u help me out, i got a 82 regal, 2 pump, 6 batts, have 2 dumps for the rear pump, extended upper control arms and stock lower arms. also have 16'in cylinder and i can three wheel turning but i want to three wheel standing still, also have 3 batts on each corner?



Gotta have more weight in the back corners, I have the same setup and I can 3 wheel goin straight if I have people in the back, you can also weigh the fenders or the trunk. But you can park it 3 wheel, this is what I do

1.lock up front and back, then drop the corner like you normally would, or however you do it and turn the steerin wheel ALL the way to that side
2.put your foot on the brake lightly and step on the gas, so it 3 wheels slowly
3.once it is up, put it in park, take your foot off the gas, and make sure you lock the steering wheel as far as you can over, and get out slowly, on the side that is down if you can.
Hope that helps, have fun


----------



## boodro

need help, anyone please help when i hit the front switch only one side is lifting so i have to jack the other side up to lock up the front what can it be and how do i fix this? Another thing is that the front goes up then comes back down so i have to close the slowdown to keep it locked up then open it up to let it back down, why and how do i fix this? Also not sure why i have two switches that control the front the first switch and the third switch is this normal? if not what does that mean. Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.


----------



## boodro

now when i hit the front switch i can get both sides to lock up without jacking up the other side but it still goes up one side at a time instead of both at the same time??? and i still have to keep the slowdown closed otherwise it comes back down. i bled the front cylinders then dumped all four wheels checked the tanks rear tank was good the two front tanks needed some fluid so i filled them back up but im still having trouble with the front cylinders not raising simultaneously and staying up without closing the slowdown also i forgot to mention that neither one of the switches that control the front will dump the cylinders i hit them up and the car jumps up but when i hit them down nothing happens???


----------



## LunaticMark

It sounds like you have a dump sticking... You need to take the dump cartridge out and clean it out of any debris. That should solve your problem...


----------



## Mr.House

How do u take apart dumps to clean??? I got pro hopper dumps.when i lock it up and close the slowdown it drops slowly?


----------



## LunaticMark

If it drops with the slowdown closed, it usually means a bad or weak check valve.


----------



## Mr.House

I meant if I close slowdown it stays up


----------



## lilred

How can I check if my solenoid are bad is there a way to check them


----------



## Sursito

Wanna thank Dumps and Cadillac cts and kingfish for helping me achieve my 3 wheel stand on 2 pumps :roflmao:


----------



## projectr

am looking to juice my 78 caddy deville soon.been looking around on several companys and got a few in mind but wanted to know what would be a good selection since theres a good hand full out there.am new to hydros but learning so any advise will help.looking to do FBSS and 3wheel.i got my eye on a 2 pump and 6 battery set up.thanks in advance


----------



## projectr

need help on coils.just picked up a 2 pump kit with powerballs and getting everything ready for install.i know some people use 2 1/2-3 1/2 ton coils on a daily.......

this is going on my 78 caddy coupe deville.daily use 
thanks in advance


----------



## projectr

^^^^anyone


----------



## boxer239

projectr said:


> ^^^^anyone


Look up wiring diagram in the forums that should help you out


----------



## caprice on dz

projectr said:


> need help on coils.just picked up a 2 pump kit with powerballs and getting everything ready for install.i know some people use 2 1/2-3 1/2 ton coils on a daily.......
> 
> this is going on my 78 caddy coupe deville.daily use
> thanks in advance


your car is notably heavier then mine but my 95 caprice is 2pumps/4batteries, 3/16" steel for the rack. rear is coil over, 2tons & 12's with accumulators & no shocks, front is currently stock springs but plan to upgrade to 2tons when I have the extra scratch. I drive mine 5 days a week for work, minimum of 50-100 miles a day, front is a little floaty like a caddy with bad shocks cause the stock springs are about dead, rear rides like stock unless I fully dump it


----------



## projectr

boxer239 said:


> Look up wiring diagram in the forums that should help you out


i dont need wiring help.my issue is which springs to run once i put the hydro set up on.thanks for the input tho:thumbsup:


----------



## projectr

caprice on dz said:


> your car is notably heavier then mine but my 95 caprice is 2pumps/4batteries, 3/16" steel for the rack. rear is coil over, 2tons & 12's with accumulators & no shocks, front is currently stock springs but plan to upgrade to 2tons when I have the extra scratch. I drive mine 5 days a week for work, minimum of 50-100 miles a day, front is a little floaty like a caddy with bad shocks cause the stock springs are about dead, rear rides like stock unless I fully dump it


thanks for the info and comparison.i get the fact of a higher ton is like a stiffer spring rate.the thing is which one to go with thatll be comfy but yet solid for daily use.i dont mind a stiffer ride then stock.i just dont wanna order the wrong springs when i can get it down right the first time......so far i been leaning on the 2ton-3ton depending which one i go with.


----------



## caprice on dz

projectr said:


> thanks for the info and comparison.i get the fact of a higher ton is like a stiffer spring rate.the thing is which one to go with thatll be comfy but yet solid for daily use.i dont mind a stiffer ride then stock.i just dont wanna order the wrong springs when i can get it down right the first time......so far i been leaning on the 2ton-3ton depending which one i go with.


I'm gonna assume you have the big 425ci engine like my old 79 had. You probably want at least 3 tons up front for the big boy. I had 3s on my caprice initially but didn't like the ride, but then again I only have a small block V8 265ci.

Shoot this guy a pm, he's got a 77 or 78,he could give you a good idea http://www.layitlow.com/forums/109987-supreme59rag.html


----------



## projectr

caprice on dz said:


> I'm gonna assume you have the big 425ci engine like my old 79 had. You probably want at least 3 tons up front for the big boy. I had 3s on my caprice initially but didn't like the ride, but then again I only have a small block V8 265ci.
> 
> Shoot this guy a pm, he's got a 77 or 78,he could give you a good idea http://www.layitlow.com/forums/109987-supreme59rag.html


ya thats what i got.the 3 ton coils might be idea for my set up.i was thinking about it all last night.its a big body,big engine,2 pump,6 batteries,plus reienforced frame.am gonna need something to keep up with the weight.i appericate the help......heres another thing i ran into.precut coils verse none precut.i was thinking none precut and if i need more low just shorten them but not sure


----------



## layed_out75

I need some help. I'm not getting the motors to work when i get my switche's.i bench tested the motors and solenoids and they are good. I lose voltage thru the solenoids. i have 48 volts going intoand 8 coming out. they are well grounded. any help is needed so i can get this suspension working.


----------



## cokolow713

i keep burning out my solenoids any help?


----------



## sitting low 87 cutlass

Hey guys ,Im having problems with my hydraulics.They were working great until the other day.I hit the switch to raise my Cutlass and nothing happend.The seloniods clicked and the motor spins and plenty of fluid.The batteries are charged.Any advice ?


----------



## magic915

*66 Impala Project help*

Hello, I'm wanting to get my frame fully wrapped on my 66 Impala, but wanted to get some advice first. Theirs a guy here in town that does work on frames and a arms, what you guys think about the work in the pics? is it good work or should I keep asking around? Whats a good price to get a full framed wrapped or partial? Do I have to get my frame wrapped if I only want to 3 wheel and hop at least 30 Inches? Or should I get a partial wrap at least? What do you guys recommend, when would be a good time to do the frame? after the bodywork all around the car, after removing all the rust and cutting out bad areas re welding . . . . What steps should I take in building the car?

1.Rust Repair/replaced
2.Body Work/sand/coat/primer
3.Frame/wrapped/powder coated/painted
4.Engine & Transmission/clean/dress/install
5.Interior
6.Hydraulics
7.Accessories/trims/bumpers/lights/


Are these some good steps to follow with the project or should others been done before some steps listed? Please let know, Thanks.

View attachment 1053730

View attachment 1053738

View attachment 1053746

View attachment 1053754

View attachment 1053762

View attachment 1053770


----------



## Cz63

Can anyone email me a diagram of how to connect a 10 switch prewired box from cce to a two pump 4 dump 6 batt set up , my front and back and my lf rf rr lr work but I have no side to side or pancake


----------



## Cz63

Sorry my email is [email protected]


----------



## korn606

63 impala, 2 pump hijacker 3 dumps, two slow downs, 6 batteries, and 4 switches,last week or so the Rear passenger side drops quicker than the drivers. and it's a uneven drop.Any idea on what kind if problem I might be looking at. just curious if maybe one pump is lower on fluid than the other. When its laid out, its straight as a arrow, just when I tap the switch to dump the rear, the rear passenger corner drops quicker. any help or advice would be appreciated


----------



## DenRoc

That's why he's asking .Don't be sarcastic.


----------



## 305chino

Having some problems with my pumps need some help ,,front end goes up no problem but back won't lift everything was all good a couple days ago went to charge batts,,when reconnected batts ,,some clicking from noils but nothing from motor or pumps for the back ,,, need some recommendation on what to look for , thks homies


----------



## projectr

can someone explain the difference from full stack coils compared to precuts?gonna be ordering some soon so would like to hear some feedback


----------



## 88wagon

sitting low 87 cutlass said:


> Hey guys ,Im having problems with my hydraulics.They were working great until the other day.I hit the switch to raise my Cutlass and nothing happend.The seloniods clicked and the motor spins and plenty of fluid.The batteries are charged.Any advice ?


Bad check valve


----------



## 88wagon

sitting low 87 cutlass said:


> Hey guys ,Im having problems with my hydraulics.They were working great until the other day.I hit the switch to raise my Cutlass and nothing happend.The seloniods clicked and the motor spins and plenty of fluid.The batteries are charged.Any advice ?


Bad check valvw


----------



## 88wagon

projectr said:


> can someone explain the difference from full stack coils compared to precuts?gonna be ordering some soon so would like to hear some feedback


Full stack is about 9 to 10 turns..pre cuts generally 4 5 turns


----------



## 88wagon

305chino said:


> Having some problems with my pumps need some help ,,front end goes up no problem but back won't lift everything was all good a couple days ago went to charge batts,,when reconnected batts ,,some clicking from noils but nothing from motor or pumps for the back ,,, need some recommendation on what to look for , thks homies


Bad solenoids..or bad battery


----------



## 88wagon

korn606 said:


> 63 impala, 2 pump hijacker 3 dumps, two slow downs, 6 batteries, and 4 switches,last week or so the Rear passenger side drops quicker than the drivers. and it's a uneven drop.Any idea on what kind if problem I might be looking at. just curious if maybe one pump is lower on fluid than the other. When its laid out, its straight as a arrow, just when I tap the switch to dump the rear, the rear passenger corner drops quicker. any help or Try gettin a new slow down or checking all rubber seals on dunp


----------



## projectr

88wagon said:


> Full stack is about 9 to 10 turns..pre cuts generally 4 5 turns


thanks i notcied that.so let say i go with precuts.would it sit way lower rather then full stacks?or full stack and precuts dont make a difference


----------



## orlando

i want to know if it is possible to raise a car up with 1 pump 1 batt and no switches?


----------



## mazdab2000

Okay I need some help. A guy told me to run my setup at 48 volts instead of 12 volts. So I did but I didnt know the switches had to be at 24 volt max do everything was at 48 volts. Now it wont go up or down at all. The solenoids click when jumped but hit a switch and nothing. Its probably something simple and ill feel dumb I didn't figure it out by now but any help would be awesome.


----------



## mazdab2000

mazdab2000 said:


> Okay I need some help. A guy told me to run my setup at 48 volts instead of 12 volts. So I did but I didnt know the switches had to be at 24 volt max do everything was at 48 volts. Now it wont go up or down at all. The solenoids click when jumped but hit a switch and nothing. Its probably something simple and ill feel dumb I didn't figure it out by now but any help would be awesome.


 someone help please


----------



## mazdab2000

Thanks for not helping. I did figure it out my motor was locked up. I put another motor in and all is copacetic


----------



## Mark707

I got a 98 towncar with 2 CCE pumps, 4 Italian dumps, 6 solenoids, 6 batts. Everything works but not like it should be. The driver front needs to be tapped twice to raise while passenger front only once. Think that may be a bad check valve? Now the passenger front when lowering needs to be tapped twice while driver only once. It seems like something is causing resistance but no noise or its not flowing back into the pump that good. I opened the slow down all the way and it will drop fine/fast like it should but I've been tryin to hop lately with the slow down just 1 full turn open so it will lower slower then Goin up... so basic lyrics when I hop the front will hop but looks crooked as one end is leaving the ground alot slower.


----------



## Yogi

Mark707 said:


> I got a 98 towncar with 2 CCE pumps, 4 Italian dumps, 6 solenoids, 6 batts. Everything works but not like it should be. The driver front needs to be tapped twice to raise while passenger front only once. Think that may be a bad check valve? Now the passenger front when lowering needs to be tapped twice while driver only once. It seems like something is causing resistance but no noise or its not flowing back into the pump that good. I opened the slow down all the way and it will drop fine/fast like it should but I've been tryin to hop lately with the slow down just 1 full turn open so it will lower slower then Goin up... so basic lyrics when I hop the front will hop but looks crooked as one end is leaving the ground alot slower.


 maybe air in the lines have you bled them ?


----------



## rookie29

what dose a full frame wrap usually cost for an 85 monte carlo?


----------



## 74chevy glasshouse

Is there a oring behind the big nut on a delta?


----------



## O.G.RIDER

WHERE IS THEY A HYDRO SHOP FOR LOW RIDERS IN PALMDALE OR LANCASTER CALIF


----------



## O.G.RIDER

WHERE IS THEY A LOW RIDER SHOP THAT FIXES HYDROS IN PALMDALE OR LANCASTER CALIF


----------



## Callejeros C.C.

i was wondering that I've seen few cars out there driving around while da back keep bouncing it squeek in da back n now my car starting to do dat da same so here da question.
What is the solution to take care of that embarrassing sound so i can continue driving  sound like I'm humping da bed whiled driving.....


----------



## DJ Englewood

Callejeros C.C. said:


> i was wondering that I've seen few cars out there driving around while da back keep bouncing it squeek in da back n now my car starting to do dat da same so here da question.
> What is the solution to take care of that embarrassing sound so i can continue driving  sound like I'm humping da bed whiled driving.....


may be the cylindersrubbing the metal of the trunk floor keep your car at the height that you hear the noise and go in the trunk and see if its touching


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## N.O.Bricks

I need advice on a front/back setup,just something to make it lay and raise for driving ,do i have to reinforce anything and what? I have a 65 impala coupe.thanks


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## Callejeros C.C.

DJ Englewood said:


> may be the cylindersrubbing the metal of the trunk floor keep your car at the height that you hear the noise and go in the trunk and see if its touching


Well i notice it is touching n rubbing.... am i suppose to make the hole longer or wider hole


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## boxer239

How do I know when my switch fries? It did a sizzling noise and now my solenoids click, doesn't go up but does go down.


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## 305chino

boxer239 said:


> How do I know when my switch fries? It did a sizzling noise and now my solenoids click, doesn't go up but does go down.


Sounds like u got a lose connection or a bad battery recheck all connections & recharge batts,...the switches using don't go bad ,....


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## MrMrFootball82

do anybody have a diagram on how to plum'up the Frt & Bck pumps are they plumd'up the same way


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## moorevisual

Callejeros C.C. said:


> i was wondering that I've seen few cars out there driving around while da back keep bouncing it squeek in da back n now my car starting to do dat da same so here da question.
> What is the solution to take care of that embarrassing sound so i can continue driving  sound like I'm humping da bed whiled driving.....


if you have a coilover set up in the rear this is a common issue


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## moorevisual

MrMrFootball82 said:


> do anybody have a diagram on how to plum'up the Frt & Bck pumps are they plumd'up the same way


look in the tech section, but yest front and back are the same


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## moorevisual

projectr said:


> thanks i notcied that.so let say i go with precuts.would it sit way lower rather then full stacks?or full stack and precuts dont make a difference


yes it will sit lower with pre-cuts. pre-cuts springs are also flat on both ends. if you have a full stack and cut them, one end will be uneven where you cut, if that matters to you. i run pre-cuts all the way around on my lay-n-play set up and it sits perfect


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## MrMrFootball82

moorevisual said:


> look in the tech section, but yest front and back are the same[/QUOTE good lookk'n


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## kaos283

Will the unbreakable lower ball joints from the 71-76 caprice (round pressed in type) fit a stock 64 impala spindle ? Or do you absolutely have to do the caprice spindle swap ?

Thanks


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## caprice on dz

This is currently how my accumulators are plumbed in, I'm thinking of installing a slow down valve between the accumulator and the T-fitting so I can shut it off from the system if I choose not to use it a certain times, will it work?


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## HeartBraker79

I just installed new battery's in my car it raises but won't stay locked up just goes back down what could be the problem


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## 86 Limited

Does it go down slowly or just drop down as soon as you lock it up? Could be a check valve..


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## HeartBraker79

I hit the switch goes up normal but then just goes down right away


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## 86 Limited

When that happened to me it was a check valve..


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## npazzin

^^^What he said!


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## HeartBraker79

Thanks Guys I'll check that out


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## 86 Limited

After u install the new one don't forget to bleed the system of any air to get rid of the air pockets. There's prolly a simpler way of doing it but I used to disconnect the hoses at the front cylinders and rubberband zip lock bags around the tips of both hoses and hit the switch a few times till I saw fluid in the bags. Then tighten the hoses back up right away and double check the fluid level in ur tank/s. Good to go..


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## Rider719

having a problem with cylinder , when back end is raised up the right side drops a little without hitting the switch to drop it.. there is a slow leak and after 10 min my right side is all the way down in the back, I have replaced the dump, replaced check valve, and also bled the hoses , none of that has worked can someone please help it is irritating the crap out of me


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## moorevisual

Rider719 said:


> having a problem with cylinder , when back end is raised up the right side drops a little without hitting the switch to drop it.. there is a slow leak and after 10 min my right side is all the way down in the back, I have replaced the dump, replaced check valve, and also bled the hoses , none of that has worked can someone please help it is irritating the crap out of me


Bad o rings? Might be tme for a cylinder rebuild.


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## HeartBraker79

Slow down leaking any way to fix it or better off getting a new one


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## 86 Limited

HeartBraker79 said:


> Slow down leaking any way to fix it or better off getting a new one


Did u use enough Teflon when u plumbed it? Those are cheap anyways..


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## 86 Limited

moorevisual said:


> Bad o rings? Might be tme for a cylinder rebuild.


THIS


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## HeartBraker79

86 Limited said:


> Did u use enough Teflon when u plumbed it? Those are cheap anyways..


Yea it's leaking from the side were the knob is


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## moorevisual

HeartBraker79 said:


> Yea it's leaking from the side were the knob is


buy a new one


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## 86 Limited

Yup


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## Yogi

caprice on dz said:


> View attachment 1398665
> 
> This is currently how my accumulators are plumbed in, I'm thinking of installing a slow down valve between the accumulator and the T-fitting so I can shut it off from the system if I choose not to use it a certain times, will it work?


Good question lmk how it goes


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## Yogi

What ton coil should I run on my cutlass to help with the stiffness Im not sure wat I currently have they are blue ?


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## cashmoneyspeed

Yogi said:


> What ton coil should I run on my cutlass to help with the stiffness Im not sure wat I currently have they are blue ?


2 3/4 ton in front, 3 turns of 2 ton coils with accumulators in back or 1 tons with or without accumulators. Rides like a cloud with just a bit of bounce up front.


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## custom_creations80

My switches shock me when I hit them up???


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## lowrider.Ksa

hey my bro

i buy lowrider hydraulic from hi low custom 
single piston pump 1" port for front side with double ground hd motor with adex dump 
2 pump for rear 
all the hoses size 3\8 
front cylinder 8" 1\2" port with deep cup 
telescope cylinder 52" open 
full wrap frame ( my car chevy caprice 1985 8v rear wheel 
10 batteries (103amp for 1 battery) 72 volt with s salonid for front 
48 volt with 3 salonid for 1 side 

4.5 tone for front side 
i think all this kit for hopper car 
but when i try to hopping my car is not hopping i dont know where is the problem 
1- batteries 
2- coils
3- pump
thanks


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## electrisherman

Uh...ya gotta flick the switch up and down...$


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## Yogi

cashmoneyspeed said:


> 2 3/4 ton in front, 3 turns of 2 ton coils with accumulators in back or 1 tons with or without accumulators. Rides like a cloud with just a bit of bounce up front.


Koo thanks


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## SWELL PASO TEXAS

uffin:uffin::thumbsup:


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## 65WILL2K

i have finally installed my hydro setup.
What do i do now in terms of putting the oil in?
Does any one have a set routine they do?
Something like a step by step?
Help greatly appreciated :bowrofl:


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## ibgreezy

I am new to hydraulics and have some questions. I got a 3 pump 6 battery setup.

Question 1: While trying to hop the car with a hop switch hydraulics stop working, from the single switch outside to all 4 dash switches. I seen a little smoke comming from the trunk, and when I pulled my disconnect apart, it arched. I could not find anything burnt up in my trunk. A few minutes later, I plugged the disconnect in and everything worked fine. All the solenoids are good and new and batteries were charged.

Question 2: My back switch just clicks rapidly and doesn't raise both back corners, but if I raise the corners individually it works. Again solenoids are all good and new and batteries are all charged.

I'm thinking maybe it's because the bar the solenoids are mounted is painted. Wouldn't the screws through the solenoid base and metal mounting bar be a good enough ground? The mounting bar is welded to rack which is welded to the frame.

Question 3: can a loose battery cable cause these problems?

Question 4: Can a bad battery still read 12+ volts?

Thanks in advance for the help


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## 71_MonteCarlo

ibgreezy said:


> I am new to hydraulics and have some questions. I got a 3 pump 6 battery setup.
> 
> Question 1: While trying to hop the car with a hop switch hydraulics stop working, from the single switch outside to all 4 dash switches. I seen a little smoke comming from the trunk, and when I pulled my disconnect apart, it arched. I could not find anything burnt up in my trunk. A few minutes later, I plugged the disconnect in and everything worked fine. All the solenoids are good and new and batteries were charged.
> 
> Question 2: My back switch just clicks rapidly and doesn't raise both back corners, but if I raise the corners individually it works. Again solenoids are all good and new and batteries are all charged.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe it's because the bar the solenoids are mounted is painted. Wouldn't the screws through the solenoid base and metal mounting bar be a good enough ground? The mounting bar is welded to rack which is welded to the frame.
> 
> Question 3: can a loose battery cable cause these problems?
> 
> Question 4: Can a bad battery still read 12+ volts?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


You should check the grounds of your solenoids. Bad grounding could cause all those problems. I would go through and make sure all the connections on the batts and solenoids are tight then run a ground from the solenoid screws to a good ground. You can never have too much ground. 


Sent from my freakin phone [\color]


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## 71_MonteCarlo

65WILL2K said:


> i have finally installed my hydro setup.
> What do i do now in terms of putting the oil in?
> Does any one have a set routine they do?
> Something like a step by step?
> Help greatly appreciated :bowrofl:


Did you ever figure it out? 

1) make sure the car is dumped out (all the way lowered)! 
2) fill the tanks with ND30 about 75%
3) bump the switch to raise the car
4) when about half way stop
5) bleed the lines. 
6) fill the tanks back to 75% 

* To bleed lines * raise car, wrap a rag around the fitting on the hose, slowly loosen the fitting just enough to let a little oil flow. Wait till all the air bubbles are gone then tighten. 


Sent from my freakin phone [\color]


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## projectr

I need some help or advise on trouble shooting my issue.car was fine and lifting for a few months.last night well hitting switches my back stop lifting.my batteries are charged so cant be that.am thinking maybe solenoids or motor.i checked all my wiring and solenoids.all of it looks fine.


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## MrMrFootball82

any click or sound when hit'n the switch


projectr said:


> I need some help or advise on trouble shooting my issue.car was fine and lifting for a few months.last night well hitting switches my back stop lifting.my batteries are charged so cant be that.am thinking maybe solenoids or motor.i checked all my wiring and solenoids.all of it looks fine.


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## BIGSEXYCAPRICE

ok, im new here. just a quick question.. i recently installed my hyrdo set up in my 91 caprice and i installed a shitty noid. that spun my front motor and burnt it right out. i just put in a "new" motor bought locally and it was "ordered" from hoppos. now. the problem is. i just installed it on the pump and wired in brand new solenoids and 2 new dumps, and the motor sparks like a bitch. i only have it hooked to 4 of the 6 batteries because i dont want to spin the motor again. what causes this? and what can i do to fix it? 

i thought at first it was the brushes need to get seated and the sparks will lower. but it almost looks like arching.


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## 71_MonteCarlo

I don't think arcing is a good thing. Make sure your grounding is on a good spot like the frame not the body. I also ground my noids to the frame with a wire (they normally ground through mount). Make sure none of the wires are loose. That will cause excessive heat and arcing too. 


Sent from my freakin phone [\color]


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## MrMrFootball82

:nicoderm:


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## 1981VATO

I'm putting a 2 pump setup in my 86 cutty was wondering how exactly to weld my 6" channel on the back ?


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## 81regalNate

why do we run three solenoids?


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## MOLIFECAM713

How to replace 1 of my front hoses thats leaking i have the hose just not sure how to change it out, an leaks on my whammy tank on my the back


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## cashmoneyspeed

MOLIFECAM713 said:


> How to replace 1 of my front hoses thats leaking i have the hose just not sure how to change it out, an leaks on my whammy tank on my the back


Set the car on jack stands, then dump to the switch to relieve all pressure out of the lines, disconnect the hose at the fitting on top the cylinder and put it in a bottle/bucket to catch the fluid. Then loosen the hose at the front pump in the trunk. Route the new hose where it won't get caught in the trailing arms or other moving parts.


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## buzzy wuzzy

rear left wont stay locked up I've bought and installed a new check valve, changed the o rings on the cyclinder still goes down, only thing keeps it up is when I close the slow down


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## youngnlow

I gotta noob question. If you had a pick up a Silverado or a s10 and you want to rid the leaf springs, do you NEED a 4 link? If not what could you do?


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## regalsonly916

I have every seal for any leak or rebuild you may need paypal ready free shipping


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## SICKO

*Hydraulics*

Having problems with the back passenger side dropping uneven and not even when I lift the car back crooked I have bleed the lines no air and even turned the coil can you guys help me out with this thank you very much.


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## jkavz_09

anyone know the reason why hydraulics wont work while car is on/running? switch box doesn't light up when car is on, only when its fully switched off box lights and i am able to use hydraulic, is it a wiring issue?


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## Hydros

look_what_i_can_do said:


> Q. Should i put Hydraulics or Airbagson my car..
> 
> A. Its up to you.. Your preference.. THey both have their up sides and their down sides.. No one can make a decision that you will be compltely happy with but you...


*DROS if you like getting into a smelly messy heavy setup.* Ever see an airbag lift a house.


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