# Partial Frame Wrap



## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Im planning on partially wrapping my g-body frame with the body on soon... ive tried the search bar but it never works for me.. I need to know where to wrap my frame and best way of doin it?? Im also lookin for some partial frame wrap pictures to look off of. Can anybody help me out?


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## pinche chico (Jan 29, 2007)

start at the rear arches,,,,front lower belly,,mid section frame rails,,and a rear bridge,,,just my 2 cents,,good luck


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

thanks...but damn, only one response. im just tryin to make sure my shit is done right so i dont have any problems. What does everybody else think? also what welder are you all using?


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## DanielDucati (Jan 11, 2007)

Buy a frame from an auto recycler(junk yard) and fully wrap that bitch...this way you can still drive your low-low and take your time on wraping the whole frame.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: ...just a thought....


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## Bio Hazard (Apr 24, 2003)

> _Originally posted by pinche chico_@Jul 24 2008, 02:13 AM~11165681
> *start at the rear arches,,,,front lower belly,,mid section frame rails,,and a rear bridge,,,just my 2 cents,,good luck
> *


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

i know about the rear arches, the cross member, and the mid section frame rails...but not so sure about the front spring pockets and arches.. what do i need to do with them? also i dont really wanna do a bridge in the rear, could i just reinforce the parts that are already there?


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## KINGFISH_CUSTOMS (Oct 8, 2006)

> _Originally posted by 509Lowrider_@Jul 25 2008, 10:38 PM~11181889
> *i know about the rear arches, the cross member, and the mid section frame rails...but not so sure about the front spring pockets and arches.. what do i need to do with them? also i dont really wanna do a bridge in the rear, could i just reinforce the parts that are already there?
> *



u can reinforce the rear spring pockets but my preference is the bridge.. becuz the spring pockets are only welded on the insides, theres no stregth towards the outsides so they can buckle still. but the bridge not only prevents the coils from busting thru the rear sheetmetal, but also reinforces the inside of the frame rails to keep them from buckling inwards as well. u just have to cut the old spring pockets out then measure the distance between frame rail to frame rail and place the bridge up there and weld it flush to the top of the frame rail.

as far as the front spring pockets and towers are concerned u wrap a 1/4 or 3/16 plate the width of the spring pocket otherwise ur A-arm will smack it and cause it to get bent inwards. the towers are what the A-arm is bolted to ontop of the frame. there u take a piece of 1/4 or 3/16 and u weld a piece of plate that covers the ears where the bolts go into to hold the a arm on, then u take a hole saw and cut a hole in them to gain access back to the bolts. i would also replace the motor mounts and tranny mount and while ur doing the motor mounts when its unbolted and u have the motor jacked up off teh frame, remove the frame motor mounts and weld in a piece of 1/4 plate ontop of the frame and bolt the frame mounts back onto the motor then slowly drop ur motor back in and weld teh frame mounts in place on top of the 1/4 plate


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## TYTE9D (May 22, 2007)

i did a partial, not finished but will be soon.  link in my sig.


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## NY-BOSSMAN (Jul 15, 2006)

it sounds like you want to do it right and thats all fine and dandy but there are a million good topics on just this,use the search feature


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

if your gunna do partials id suggest droping the body mounts and lifting the rear of the body upwards about 4-6 inches to allow enought clearance to do the whole rear section ,then basicly do asmuch as you can see of the frame but to be honest if your planning on keeping the car id do a full wrap its easier in the long run


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## REGALRIDER86 (Jan 24, 2007)

Get the spare frame and do a full wrap, you'll thank yourself later.


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

> _Originally posted by NY-BOSSMAN_@Jul 26 2008, 05:31 AM~11182952
> *it sounds like you want to do it right and thats all fine and dandy but there are a million good topics on just this,use the search feature
> *


Like i said before, the search bar doesnt ever work for me. And i dont have alot of time to look this stuff up...I figured askin would be alot faster. Thanks to everybody that replied though


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Anybody have some pics of their partial wraps? Oh...and i found a mig welder for a good price and was wonderin if it'd work for the wrap? the specs are:

Input: 230V, 60 Hz, single phase; Welding current range: 35-140 amps (working), 160 amps maximum, Duty cycle: 100% @ 35 amps,18% @ 140 amps; Draws 25 amps @ 230V; Max. open circuit voltage: 20V; Weldable wires: 0.023 to 0.030 inch steel and stainless steel; 0.030 to 0.035 inch flux core and aluminum


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## REGALRIDER86 (Jan 24, 2007)

I have some of a full wrap, below is the link.


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Anybody know about that welder?


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

the welder will work the only prob is it will be almost maxed out all the time but it will work i did all my 1st cars with a 130amp snap on mig now got a lincoln 225 as for the frame id strongly suggest doing a full wrap you will not regret it in the long run


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## REGALRIDER86 (Jan 24, 2007)

Ive been using a Millermatic 135, cranked up most of the time,but it has served me well.


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

I dont really understand the duty cycle...what does it mean 100% at 35 amps or 18% at 140 amps? whats the percent for?


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## pinche chico (Jan 29, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 509Lowrider_@Jul 26 2008, 09:42 PM~11187553
> *I dont really understand the duty cycle...what does it mean 100% at 35 amps or 18% at 140 amps? whats the percent for?
> *


look for a tag on the welder and look for the metal thickness and it should tell you what that welder is capable of doin,,also it works best when you adjust to the welder yourself!!
i use a hobart for all my heavy duty and thick metal,,and sheetmetal i have a cheapy from harbor freight,,90 amp mig


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## TYTE9D (May 22, 2007)

duty cycle means you can weld for so long before you need to let the machine cool. 30% weld 3mins let cool for 7.


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Thanks to everybody who helped me out..


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

What do i have to do in order to raise the body off my frame somewhat so i have more room to work on the reinforcements?


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

TTT


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## hoppers602 (Feb 11, 2005)

Go ahead do a Partial wrap :biggrin:


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

I decided to do a full...but thanks to everybody for tellin me the most important parts of the frame to wrap. How many sheets does it usually take to fully wrap a g-body frame?


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Oh and does anybody have an answer to my previous question about takin the body off in one piece?


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## ONESICKLS (Sep 27, 2007)

> _Originally posted by hoppers602_@Jul 29 2008, 03:57 PM~11208795
> *Go ahead do a Partial wrap :biggrin:
> 
> 
> ...



OUCH.............................


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## hoppers602 (Feb 11, 2005)

You can but the bumpers will have to come off. 2 sheets of 3/16


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by 509Lowrider_@Jul 29 2008, 04:04 PM~11208849
> *Oh and does anybody have an answer to my previous question about takin the body off in one piece?
> *


ok what i do when i do them like this is pull all the body mounts off and usualy start at the back jack the car up as far as you can with a jack under the diff once itsd all the way up i put jackstands on the cill in front of the rear wheel then let the jack down and the frame should fall out the bottom once you do the rear drop the body back on the frame and do the same in the front dont go mad in the front or you will have to pull the brake pipes from the master cylinder i would pull the steering collum and the gear linkage off the rest should stretch enough just keep ya eyes open if any cables get tight etc


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## REGALRIDER86 (Jan 24, 2007)

> _Originally posted by hoppers602_@Jul 29 2008, 03:57 PM~11208795
> *Go ahead do a Partial wrap :biggrin:
> 
> 
> ...



I really hope my frame holds, shit like this bothers me!


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Thanks for the help... Anybody got some pics of their setup and reinforcements they can post up?


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

> _Originally posted by REGALRIDER86_@Jul 29 2008, 04:42 PM~11209252
> *I really hope my frame holds, shit like this bothers me!
> *


Yeah that'd really suck to have that happen... Im not gonna be rough on my shit though so I aint too worried about it


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

this is how i did my old street car


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## westside206rain (Apr 8, 2003)

JUST HIT UP LOWCOS CUSTOM HYDRAULICS IN SPOKANE AND ASK FOR IAN :biggrin:


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## REGALRIDER86 (Jan 24, 2007)

The number is here, below.


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

I know about Lowcos, I go over there sometimes. I plan on doin my own shit though...more fun! :biggrin:


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## ernbleez (Sep 12, 2007)

> _Originally posted by hoppers602_@Jul 29 2008, 02:57 PM~11208795
> *Go ahead do a Partial wrap :biggrin:
> 
> 
> ...


 what causes that to happen ? what part of the frame ?


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## hoppers602 (Feb 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ernbleez_@Aug 1 2008, 09:31 AM~11233311
> *what causes that to happen ? what part of the frame ?
> *


The section right where the door and the quarter panel are . the Frame at that point goes from box to chanel. that is where the problem is. Doing the arches by them selvies is a waste of money and time. it might look good but doesnt do a dam thing. And don try to put a pieace of 3x4 angle iron across the frame :thumbsdown: wont work. DO IT RIGHT take the body off.


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## stevie d (Oct 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by hoppers602_@Aug 1 2008, 03:46 PM~11236672
> *The section right where the door and the quarter panel are . the Frame at that point goes from box to chanel. that is where the problem is. Doing the arches by them selvies is a waste of money and time. it might look good but doesnt do a dam thing. And don try to put a pieace of 3x4 angle iron across the frame  :thumbsdown: wont work. DO IT RIGHT take the body off.
> *


amen brother


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## SiLvErReGaL (Mar 11, 2005)

> _Originally posted by DanielDucati_@Jul 25 2008, 11:13 PM~11181738
> *Buy a frame from an auto recycler(junk yard) and fully wrap that bitch...this way you can still drive your low-low and take your time on wraping the whole frame.. :thumbsup:  :thumbsup: ...just a thought....
> *


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Big Bastard Loco (Jul 5, 2005)

> _Originally posted by stevie d_@Jul 29 2008, 03:23 PM~11209029
> *ok what i do when i do them like this is pull all the body mounts off and usualy start at the back jack the car up as far as you can with a jack under the diff once itsd all the way up i put jackstands on the cill in front of the rear wheel then let the jack down and the frame should fall out the bottom once you do the rear drop the body back on the frame and do the same in the front dont go mad in the front or you will have to pull the brake pipes from the master cylinder i would pull the steering collum and the gear linkage off the rest should stretch enough just keep ya eyes open if any cables get tight etc
> *


So what would we jack the front end up from? Or you think I can get the back up high enough to get most of the fram done, so id only have to take off the whole front end to do the front? Im trying to get mine done this winter and dont wanna waste my time by starting off doing it wrong.


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## AndrewH (Dec 12, 2002)

> _Originally posted by hoppers602_@Aug 1 2008, 04:46 PM~11236672
> *The section right where the door and the quarter panel are . the Frame at that point goes from box to chanel. that is where the problem is. Doing the arches by them selvies is a waste of money and time. it might look good but doesnt do a dam thing. And don try to put a pieace of 3x4 angle iron across the frame  :thumbsdown: wont work. DO IT RIGHT take the body off.
> *


so doing the arches is a waste?? lol










actually that does make sense, plating right up to the T/A mount just makes the whole rear end a stiff lever, tettering off the coils, pushing upwards at the joint where the frame goes to flimsy 3 sided channel. glad I boxed mine in for extra assurance!


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## TYTE9D (May 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by hoppers602+Jul 29 2008, 03:57 PM~11208795-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 :uh:


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## 16474 (Jan 15, 2006)

Wow .....


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Where can I get some hardlines and a hardline bender? & how much that stuff cost?


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## chevyman (Jan 22, 2006)

:0


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

> _Originally posted by 509Lowrider_@Aug 11 2008, 12:13 PM~11315198
> *Where can I get some hardlines and a hardline bender? & how much that stuff cost?
> *


TTT


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

Anybody?


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## 509Lowrider (Sep 17, 2007)

I guess nobody can help a brother out...


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## bad company (Aug 29, 2005)

HEY MAN I WENT TO A HYDRUAULIC PLACE THAT MAKES HOSES ETC FOR EQUIPMENT. AND THE GUY SAID ON A WEEKEND IF I WANT THAT THEY WOULD LET ME USE THE BENDER SO I CAN HARDLINE MY RIDE. CHECK ONE OF THOSE PLACES OUT MAN . :biggrin:


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