# CNC cut 64 Impala upper control arms



## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

These are the arms that I am making for my 64. I decided to try and post as many steps as I can so that people can see the amount of work that goes into making them and to give people ideas.

First I start out my measuring and duplicating the arms in the computer. I then cut pieces on my plotter to see if everything lines up properly.

Here is my first attempt with the vinyl/paper pattern.









Here is my second attempt. It will usually take about three attempts to dial it all in.









At this point I know everything fits. Now it's time to see if we can manipulate softer/thinner metal into doing what I want it to do.









Now I know that I can not get 1/4" top plate to make that nice smooth curve. I now have to make a roller to make the radius so that the top looks nice an smooth (or as smooth as I can get it).

The sides will be .375" and the top will be .250".


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## Classic Customs (Oct 31, 2008)

nice


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## mr.lincon (Apr 1, 2008)




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## kustombuilder (Nov 8, 2005)




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## 79 cutty (Sep 27, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

Damn nice arms


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## TYTE9D (May 22, 2007)




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## wayne64ss (Nov 12, 2002)

thats a cool ass idea man!!


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## 63 VERT (Jun 15, 2008)

> _Originally posted by wayne64ss_@Feb 16 2010, 12:26 PM~16628842
> *thats a cool ass idea man!!
> *


x2


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## $$bigjoker$$ (Aug 12, 2004)

CNC? cant see CNC looks more like waterjet or laser cut!!

if u say CNC i think about a-arms cut out of an solid block of steel or something


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## mazdawg78 (Oct 16, 2009)

> _Originally posted by $$bigjoker$$_@Feb 20 2010, 05:41 PM~16672626
> *CNC? cant see CNC looks more like waterjet or laser cut!!
> 
> if u say CNC i think about a-arms cut out of an solid block of steel or something
> *


me too. look good though :thumbsup:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by $$bigjoker$$_@Feb 20 2010, 05:41 PM~16672626
> *CNC? cant see CNC looks more like waterjet or laser cut!!
> 
> if u say CNC i think about a-arms cut out of an solid block of steel or something
> *


CNC: Computerized Numerical Control. Waterjets, Plasma, Torch, Router, Mill, Hotwire, EDM, Lathe, Plotter..........All are CNC's.


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## mazdawg78 (Oct 16, 2009)

i know that. i do cnc plasma cutting. i hear that there is cnc arms i still automatically think a block of steel bein cut


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by mazdawg78_@Feb 20 2010, 10:01 PM~16674458
> *i know that. i do cnc plasma cutting. i hear that there is cnc arms i still automatically think a block of steel bein cut
> *


That would be Billet.

It would be to expensive to make them out of billet. In material, tooling, and cad time it would cost me about $1500 to make a set. Not worth the effort.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

I had some time to work on the arms today. Here are the progress pictures.

4" more lockup/travel

























Here's one of the prototype arms. This helps me find binding and any clearance issues.


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## mazdawg78 (Oct 16, 2009)

holy cow!! any of it laid?


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by mazdawg78_@Feb 20 2010, 10:39 PM~16674811
> *holy cow!! any of it laid?
> *


It lays just like before. About .750" off the ground.

Tomorrow I'm going to shim the arms to see if I like the camber. If not I'll make changes to the arms.


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## TAIB (Oct 23, 2005)

thats cool man
i allways like to see people that think how to make new things for the industry
espacialy(sp) with cnc stuff wich u study and workin with a bit now


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

Why do you have 4" moor lockup and why do you use the stoke balljoint and not the unbreakables???


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by TAIB_@Feb 21 2010, 03:10 AM~16676421
> *thats cool man
> i allways like to see people that think how to make new things for the industry
> espacialy(sp) with cnc stuff wich u study and workin with a bit now
> *


Thank you.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Lolohopper_@Feb 21 2010, 04:05 AM~16676555
> *Why do you have 4" moor lockup and why do you use the stoke balljoint and not the unbreakables???
> *


I just got carried away and wanted more lock up for smoother ride.

Those are unbreakable ball joints. Stock ball joints only have 3 bolts.

Here's what the bottom arms look like.

Lower control arms


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## Impslap (Mar 5, 2008)

Looks great! Are these longer (extended) than the factory a-arms? If so, how much?


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by EPTXCarlover_@Feb 21 2010, 11:35 AM~16678049
> *Looks great! Are these longer (extended) than the factory a-arms? If so, how much?
> *


Yes, they are extended 1". But that's just for reference. Once I am done I will be able to extend these arms to any length.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

I think your right about rolling the top plate. It will make life much easier. Looking good.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Feb 21 2010, 05:32 PM~16680473
> *I think your right about rolling the top plate. It will make life much easier. Looking good.
> *


Yea, I was able to make it roll, but what a bitch. Decided to pass on it. For now at least.


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## $$bigjoker$$ (Aug 12, 2004)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard+Feb 20 2010, 09:24 PM~16674135-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thats cheap!!! maybe i hook u up if i need parts


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## TAIB (Oct 23, 2005)

if from billet what material will you use?
with it breakin?


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## Bajito93 (Nov 16, 2007)

nice work! :thumbsup:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

All billet means is that it's machined from a solid piece of material. Billet can be aluminum, steel, lead, magnesium and so on. 

If I were to make the arms out of "Billet Steel", it would be to expensive. The tooling would wear out very fast and have to be replaced often. I would estimate maybe 16 hours per arm on the mill. Also keep in mind any error would ruin the project and you would have to start over.

Could the arms be made from billet steel? Yes. Would it be worth it? No.


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## TAIB (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Feb 22 2010, 09:09 PM~16689635
> *All billet means is that it's machined from a solid piece of material. Billet can be aluminum, steel, lead, magnesium and so on.
> 
> If I were to make the arms out of "Billet Steel", it would be to expensive. The tooling would wear out very fast and have to be replaced often. I would estimate maybe 16 hours per arm on the mill. Also keep in mind any error would ruin the project and you would have to start over.
> ...


yea i know

but what do you think will be good enuff not to brake when on the car or even if being hoppd


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by TAIB_@Feb 22 2010, 04:10 PM~16690664
> *yea i know
> 
> but what do you think will be good enuff not to brake when on the car or even if being hoppd
> *


.1875 would be fine for a cruiser. I'm making my sides out of .375 and the top out of .250. That would be good for hopping or anything else.

I'm not hopping my car (yet) so it's just for a higher lock up. I can cruise around at the position where the car used to be at full lock, but with more travel. Smoother ride through out the cycle.


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## TAIB (Oct 23, 2005)




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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here's an update.

As you can see here is my pile of revisions. All did work to some extent, but I'm trying to get the arm exactly where I want it.









Figuring out the geometry for ideal suspension travel can be a bitch. Here are some pictures starting with the car lowered, mid, and lifted. As you can see the camber dramatically changes throughout it's travel. 

I feel like I have to much positive camber at mid range and lowered. However the camber is perfect when the car is locked up. I am trying to achieve a better angle throughout the cycle. I have designed yet another arm and will make it this week. i hope this one is the last test fit.


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## weatmaster (Aug 13, 2005)

And again - some realy nice work from you!


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## THE ONE (May 12, 2005)

it's looking good!!! :thumbsup:


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## KERRBSS (Jan 28, 2005)

i like where your going with this!! :thumbsup:


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## miguel62 (Mar 21, 2007)

Damn!!!!!!! :cheesy: :cheesy:


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## eastside1989 (Sep 14, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Thanks guys, I appreciate all your support.


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## Ked O.P. (May 4, 2009)

:thumbsup: keep up the good work... it will pay off in a major way soon! :biggrin:


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

:wow: :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow:


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## edelmiro13 (Apr 15, 2007)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 3 2010, 12:30 PM~16783614
> *Thanks guys, I appreciate all your support.
> *


So how soon till mass production on these?


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by edelmiro13_@Mar 3 2010, 02:56 PM~16785919
> *So how soon till mass production on these?
> *


What! Mass produce? After all the revisions I made when I'm done with my set I don't want make another for a while! lol

I could make a few sets after. I would like to test a set on a local hopper to see how they hold up. My car is just lay and play.

I almost shifted gears last night and made a set out of round tube, but changed my mind.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here's an update. This is the last revision, from here come the actual arms.

I will be rounding out the ends and capping the balljoint to look better.

I made the sides out of .375 and the top from .188.


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## touchdowntodd (Jun 4, 2007)

jesus man, thats impressive.. cant wait to see the end product!


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## wayne64ss (Nov 12, 2002)

yea man, those look great!


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

Nice arms but why do you cut the hole in the topplate???


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by Lolohopper_@Mar 11 2010, 08:21 AM~16858906
> *Nice arms but why do you cut the hole in the topplate???
> *


lol, I new someone was going to ask. That is an adjustable hole for a bumpstop. The bumpstop absorbs the impact, concentrates the force, and quiets the car a bit. Some cars have this loud "clank" when you lock them up, this solves the problem.


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## lo68impala (Jan 26, 2006)

nice :biggrin:


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 11 2010, 04:42 PM~16859472
> *lol, I new someone was going to ask. That is an adjustable hole for a bumpstop. The bumpstop absorbs the impact, concentrates the force, and quiets the car a bit. Some cars have this loud "clank" when you lock them up, this solves the problem.
> *



Good idea


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here's some progress. I made some reinforcement plates for around the front spring pocket. I did something different. I added some holes for plug welds, some relief holds to aid in the bend, and some slots to add weld.

How did it work? fine. Was it still a bitch to bend? Absolutely.

It fit pretty good.


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

Show us pix when is at the frame


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 11 2010, 04:12 AM~16857986
> *Here's an update. This is the last revision, from here come the actual arms.
> 
> I will be rounding out the ends and capping the balljoint to look better.
> ...


Have I started a new trend? It will look real nice capped off.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> Here's an update.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Mar 12 2010, 09:39 AM~16869733
> *Have I started a new trend? It will look real nice capped off.
> *


Yes you have. Looks much nicer.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Mar 12 2010, 09:46 AM~16869782
> *Try doing a set with 2" of extention and shim them back. The longer arm will cut down on the geometry change some. You may need to increase the size of the notch in the side of the arm to keep it from bottoming on the frame too early and limiting lock up though. Thats what I did on the G-body arms and it helped with  the camber issues.*


Tried that, Made it worse. I decided to shorten the arm from where it was (still extended though) and changed the ball joint angle again. The ball joint angle made a difference. I am content where it's at now.

I think for most hoppers this bad camber is fine because they don't go very low. In this picture car is almost laying frame (.500-.750 off the ground). When I drive it, it scrapes.

Thanks for the tips, I see your reasoning, totally makes sense.


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## EMPIRE CUSTOMS (May 29, 2005)

*CNC cut arms and plates,.. thats a really good idea.. why didnt we think of that :biggrin:  

looks good bro*


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard+Mar 12 2010, 01:38 PM~16870752-->
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know it's a pain to "have it all". For the amount of travel your getting from lock to lay you've done pretty dam good. It's got a mean lock up now.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by EMPIRE CUSTOMS_@Mar 12 2010, 01:05 PM~16871511
> *CNC cut arms and plates,.. thats a really good idea.. why didnt we think of that :biggrin:
> 
> looks good bro
> *


Thanks man.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Mar 12 2010, 01:29 PM~16871710
> *Do you have a plan for doing the cap? I've got an idea for doing it without any hardware showing on the top of the arm. PM me if your interested in my idea.
> *


For sure let me know. Although at this point I am done thinking for the week. I just want to drive this bitch.

On a side note. I just got a CNC lathe, so I'm going to make my own "jimmy joints", power balls and bushings.

Nest project, panhard bar removal! I hate that damn thing. :biggrin:


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## DeeLoc (Feb 15, 2003)

i know a little trick they did on my brother's prerunner to solve the camber issues with the front end able to cycle through 20" of travel, but they made a new spindle.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Oh, I see where you're going with this. Good idea, never thought of that.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 12 2010, 03:50 PM~16871879
> *For sure let me know. Although at this point I am done thinking for the week. I just want to drive this bitch.
> 
> On a side note. I just got a CNC lathe, so I'm going to make my own "jimmy joints", power balls and bushings.
> ...


PM sent.



> _Originally posted by DeeLoc_@Mar 12 2010, 04:13 PM~16872075
> *i know a little trick they did on my brother's prerunner to solve the camber issues with the front end able to cycle through 20" of travel, but they made a new spindle.
> *


I'm guessing they made a taller spindle? If the spindle was made taller above the wheel hub stub it would help the geometry.


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## mazdawg78 (Oct 16, 2009)

a lot of people in the truck world are makin knuckles. not spindles. theres on guy that has 16" of travel and 2 deg of change


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## DeeLoc (Feb 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Mar 12 2010, 05:28 PM~16873831
> *PM sent.
> I'm guessing they made a taller spindle? If the spindle was made taller above the wheel hub stub it would help the geometry.
> *


I'm not sure if its taller than stock cause the shop also fixed the bump steer problem that the previous owner had....They angled it back a few degrees. There isn't any ball joints on it now though, it has the uniballs.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by mazdawg78_@Mar 13 2010, 10:30 AM~16879888
> *a lot of people in the truck world are makin knuckles. not spindles. theres on guy that has 16" of travel and 2 deg of change
> *



While this is true, but their upper arms pivot is further back. This is something we can't change because we have the motor in the way. That's why outhopu said to shim it as far back.


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## DeeLoc (Feb 15, 2003)

First pic is the bumpsteer, bad camber front suspension
Second is the fixed version, new lower arm and angled back spindle.
They are on the stock mounts


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

nice. what kind of truck?


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## DeeLoc (Feb 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 13 2010, 10:56 AM~16880013
> *nice. what kind of truck?
> *


98 toyota prerunner ex cab, been made to an actual prerunner

I think he said they angled it back around 15 degrees. I'd like to learn CAD so I could build a set of arms like you're doing and cycle it in the computer to see if it would work.
Something that would lay nicely, take care of camber issues and withstand hopping.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by DeeLoc_@Mar 13 2010, 12:44 PM~16879959
> *First pic is the bumpsteer, bad camber front suspension
> Second is the fixed version, new lower arm and angled back spindle.
> They are on the stock mounts
> *


Your saying bumpsteer but that relates more to toe change during compression and rebound of the suspension. 

The key difference between the first and second pic is the arm sits over the spindle. That has the same basic effect as running a taller ball joint. It effectively makes the upper arm shorter at full compression and longer at full droop or lock up as we call it. 

Nice pics by the way.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

And here is the reinforcement plate I made.


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## L-BOOGIE (Jul 19, 2006)

:thumbsup:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here's the frame

The frame looks white because it was sprayed with metalprep








This is primer.









Here's the control arm. It's almost finished.


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## TAIB (Oct 23, 2005)

nice stuff man
shit im happy im getin into this trade


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by TAIB_@Mar 20 2010, 08:57 PM~16948872
> *nice stuff man
> shit im happy im getin into this trade
> *


Thank you.

What trade are you getting into?


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## DeeLoc (Feb 15, 2003)

The arm is looking good!


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Thanks.


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## edelmiro13 (Apr 15, 2007)

Looks good man
Still curious what a price would be?


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by edelmiro13_@Mar 20 2010, 09:40 PM~16949245
> *Looks good man
> Still curious what a price would be?
> *


Thanks. I don't know what a price would be. These arms really kick my ass to make. I say a pair would be about $350-375.


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## TAIB (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 21 2010, 03:59 AM~16948890
> *Thank you.
> 
> What trade are you getting into?
> *


mech. eng.
manufacturing

do alot of cnc now in school about to start workin with it right now doin more of hydraulics fitting and machining
cyllinder sevice and that


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by TAIB_@Mar 21 2010, 12:20 AM~16950341
> *mech. eng.
> manufacturing
> 
> ...


nice, where you from?


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## TAIB (Oct 23, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 22 2010, 05:52 AM~16958154
> *nice, where you from?
> *


australia now


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## jtheshowstoppper (Oct 4, 2004)

how much for the reinforcement plate?


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## Ked O.P. (May 4, 2009)

:wow: those arms are beautiful :tears: put me on the list for a pair when you decide to mass produce them!!! :biggrin:


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Thanks! I've been making a jig to make my arms. I want them exact every time.

I really hope to have it done SOON!!!


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## kustombuilder (Nov 8, 2005)




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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Here's another set. These are ALMOST finished. I should have them done tomorrow.


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## elcoshiloco (Oct 25, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 27 2010, 08:38 PM~17020082
> *Here's another set. These are ALMOST finished. I should have them done tomorrow.
> 
> 
> ...


  Glad too see that there is still manufacturing inovators in SoCal.


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## grounded4now (Nov 8, 2008)

:wow: IMPRESSIVE!!!!


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## kustombuilder (Nov 8, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 27 2010, 09:38 PM~17020082
> *Here's another set. These are ALMOST finished. I should have them done tomorrow.
> 
> 
> ...


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## Skim (May 26, 2005)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 27 2010, 09:38 PM~17020082
> *Here's another set. These are ALMOST finished. I should have them done tomorrow.
> 
> 
> ...


 :0 :0 :0 :thumbsup:


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## mazdawg78 (Oct 16, 2009)

:0 :0 :0 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: very sexy


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

> _Originally posted by hearse_@Mar 26 2010, 11:09 PM~17013081
> *My gf wants something in her monte carlo. I have 2 8" punch hx 2's laying around but dont know if i wanna put those in it or a single 12" cvr. Opinions? dont have a amp yet
> *


Coming along nicely. You going to do a little more work on the caps to get the edges flush?


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## tre5peter (Jul 21, 2008)

Looks like you have a great looking set of arms!


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Mar 28 2010, 09:00 AM~17022756
> *Coming along nicely. You going to do a little more work on the caps to get the edges flush?
> *


Thanks everyone.

Those are not the actual caps. Those are just for measurements for the threaded holes in the arm.


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Cool. That explains the fitment.


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## KIPPY (Jun 10, 2007)

keep up the good work homie :thumbsup:


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## Old School 1957 (Nov 9, 2005)

NICE WORK!!!
KEEP IT UP...


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

looks good


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## Punch (Nov 19, 2008)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 16 2010, 11:38 AM~16905720
> *And here is the reinforcement plate I made.
> 
> 
> ...


NICE Brother!!!


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## Pure Xtc (Jun 7, 2006)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Mar 27 2010, 10:38 PM~17020082
> *Here's another set. These are ALMOST finished. I should have them done tomorrow.
> 
> 
> ...



*Awesome Work Bro!! I can really appreciate the time and effort you have put into designing and making these!! Hats off to you Bro!!*


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Sorry for the late update. I have been really busy with work.

Here's a shot.


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## Classic Customs (Oct 31, 2008)

nice!


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## OUTHOPU (Feb 24, 2006)

Hey yours is like a steel toe version of mine. :cheesy: 

Almost looks like the ball joint cap is chrome in that pic from the glare off the window.

Turned out nice.


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## CANUHOP (Jun 20, 2002)

Damn nice work man!!


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by OUTHOPU_@Apr 27 2010, 07:19 AM~17316143
> *Hey yours is like a steel toe version of mine. :cheesy:
> 
> Almost looks like the ball joint cap is chrome in that pic from the glare off the window.
> ...


Hey, a good idea, is a good idea. :thumbsup: That's why I like posting up pictures. To share my ideas just like I borrow other peoples ideas. Helping each other build a better project.

I'll take some more pictures of them side by side and installed.

Thanks everyone.


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## DeeLoc (Feb 15, 2003)

definately do take more pics....this and your lower build thread are great!


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## bulletproofdesigns (May 14, 2007)

*Anything for a gbody* :wave:


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## socapots (Oct 4, 2001)

this whole topic is wicked man. I followed your lower topic as well. awsome work all around man.


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## sand1 (Jul 14, 2008)

those are the chit


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

Thanks everyone. Now I need longer brake lines. I found a place near by that can make them for me. I tried using some off a 1995 C3500 truck. They were to long.


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## DETONATER (Aug 3, 2009)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Apr 26 2010, 10:15 PM~17313682
> *Sorry for the late update. I have been really busy with work.
> 
> Here's a shot.
> ...


Beautiful ! I'll need a set for my 4... :biggrin:


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## KAKALAK (Mar 11, 2005)

:wow:


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## 925rider (Aug 15, 2005)




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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> *lol, I new someone was going to ask. That is an adjustable hole for a bumpstop. The bumpstop absorbs the impact, concentrates the force, and quiets the car a bit. Some cars have this loud "clank" when you lock them up, this solves the problem.
> *


Finally got around to installing the bump stop. Here is a couple of pictures for those who asked. 

You can add these bump stops to any arm. I recommend that you do. It makes the car quieter and helps absorbs the impact. Reducing the impact of the arm helps keep the arm from cracking or bending.


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## droppen98 (Oct 29, 2002)

damn nice work the arms look awsome


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by droppen98_@Oct 21 2010, 03:10 PM~18872852
> *damn nice work the arms look awsome
> *



Thanks.


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## Lolohopper (Jan 27, 2006)

:0 :0 :0


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## wannabelowrider (Mar 14, 2008)

How much do these cost for a g body


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## HARDLUCK88 (Nov 8, 2001)

> _Originally posted by chairmnofthboard_@Apr 27 2010, 01:15 AM~17313682
> *Sorry for the late update. I have been really busy with work.
> 
> Here's a shot.
> ...


good shit man! they came out better than i thought they would!


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by wannabelowrider_@Feb 22 2011, 01:42 PM~19933575
> *How much do these cost  for a g body
> *


Shit, I don't know, they are pretty time consuming. Probably about $275 for a set, unpainted. So I could make a few sets at one time.


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## chairmnofthboard (Oct 22, 2007)

> _Originally posted by HARDLUCK88_@Feb 22 2011, 01:49 PM~19933643
> *good shit man! they came out better than i thought they would!
> *


Thanks man! :cheesy:


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## gonzos64 (Dec 20, 2012)

How much for all four to 83221?


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